CUT at 45 Park Lane is the first European venture of the celebrated Austrian born, American chef Wolfgang Puck. Housed on the ground floor of one of the newest luxury hotels in the Dorchester Collection, it opened, along with the hotel, in September 2011. As with his other award winning restaurants, such as Spago in Beverly Hills, Trattoria del Lupo in Las Vegas, and Chinois in Santa Monica – to name but three in his empire of 20 fine dining establishments – CUT oozes glamour and  luxury.

Although some might find the narrowness of the room slightly out of character with its grandiose Park Lane setting, the high-ceiling, marbled floor, wood panelling, dramatic silk drapes and slated blinds offer an appealing club-like feel to the dining experience. They are the work of internationally renowned New York based architect and designer Thierry Despont whose cloud like, glittering chandeliers and glowing table lamps provide eclectic décor and lighting. They illuminate well-spaced, reflective tables surrounded by comfortable leather chairs and banquettes.

Art deco influences are juxaposed with cutting edge contemporary art, namely Damien Hurst’s beautiful limited edition butterfly “Psalms.” 16 of these are displayed together for the first time along the whole length of the room.

Executive chef David McIntyre from California worked in some of Wolfgang Puck’s most high profile restaurants for 13 years before relocating to London to head the kitchen. His team includes senior sous chef Sheldon Fonseca, who has a wealth of experience in top London restaurants.

Loyd Loudy, Restaruant Director, has an equally good pedigree, including stints at the Oxo Tower, Hakkasan and China Tang at the Dorchester. His young team has ensured that the impeccable food is matched by seamless professional service which is at once friendly, informative and unobtrusive.

After enjoying a speciality cocktail in the impressive Bar 45, which runs at mezzanine level along the length of the restaurant, being separated from it by upper level slated louvres, diners can descend the imposing central staircase to their tables below.

Whilst steak is the undoubted star on the menu, to describe CUT as a modern top-end American steakhouse understates the variety and quality of the food on offer. This includes ten salads and starters, three sandwiches, five steak and one lamb options, along with four seafood mains. The five desserts are also too good to be ignored. It is no great surprise, therefore, that, as a testament to his industry and creativity, and just one year after opening, Wolfgang Puck won “Chef of the Year’ in the 2012’s prestigious British GQ Men of The Year Awards.

A weekday lunch in February began with two delightful amuse bouches.

Crisp, spiced cones were filled with utterly fresh and succulent Big Eye tuna tartar.  Bound in a not overpowering wasabi aioli, and enhanced by a well- judged addition of ginger and soy, this enlivened the taste buds perfectly.

Equally accomplished were the delectable miniature wagyu beefburgers whose well-seasoned meat had a rich, melting texture.

All the three breads offered – sour dough, focaccia and onion and oats – were competently executed, with crisp crusts and firm crumb.

A starter of “Louis” cocktail was generously packed with beautifully sweet white crab meat and lobster, moulded into a circlet and set on a delicate savoury pannacotta. Avocado pieces and spicy tomato horseradish sauce gave a creamy texture and contrasting flavour which set off the seafood perfectly.  Basil leaves and puree lifted the dish with a herby fragrance. This beautifully dressed plate, with is crown of micro leaves and spots of dressing was also visually stunning.

Another outstanding first course was prime sirloin steak tartar. With more flavour than the classic fillet, the hand chopped beef had a soft chewy texture enhanced by herb aioli and given a gentle kick with capers and mustard.  A raw quail’s egg in its shell allowed the diner to mix this extra richness into the other ingredients.

For a main course, CUT’s signature tasting of beef was not to be missed. Three small portions of Devon Angus, Kansas USDA Prime and Australian Wagyu, had been grilled over hardwood and charcoal then flashed under a broiler and accurately timed to medium rare, as requested. With differing degrees of flavour and succulence, largely due to the variations of marbling, the Wagyu with its pronounced gamey aroma scored highest on the first, the Devon Angus on the second.

Sauces, condiments and accompaniments were integral to the success of the meal. Three sauces – béarnaise, barbeque and Armagnac and green peppercorn – and four mustards including  English, Dijon and Violet gave ample choice for demanding diners. A generous stack of wonderfully crisp tempura onion rings and a portion of wild field mushrooms with Japanese Shishito peppers in a rich piquant sauce proved outstanding accompaniments alongside herbed French fries and sauteed spinach with garlic.

For those who prefer a seafood main, the choices, although not as wide as the meat options, are nevertheless tempting. These include Dover sole meuniere, broiled miso glazed Scottish salmon and grilled shashimi quality Big Eye tuna.

My dining partner finally selected Scottish diver scallops. Five large specimens of this delectable bivalve were accurately timed to produce and a caramelised crust and delicate, sweet flesh. Set on a smooth parsnip puree, garnished with braised salsify and topped with deep fried parsnips, this highly satisfying dish was given a fragrant lift with a dressing of black truffle vinaigrette.

Desserts proved not to be an anti-climax, given that this section of the kitchen is in the capable hands of Executive Pastry Chef, Melissa Zahnter.

Both sweets chosen featured Wolfgang Puck’s “10” year chocolate sauce, which took that number of years to perfect. An exquisite balance of sweet and bitter flavours, it enhanced both desserts perfectly.

Amarena cherry ice cream profiteroles had light crisp choux pastry and an intensely flavoured filling that captured the slightly sour taste of the small dark fruit from Italy.

Bruleed banana cream pie with Bananas Foster ice cream adapted two classic American desserts in one combination. The rich but light layered pie, topped with caramelised banana, was complemented by a quenelle of velvety smooth ice cream packed full of rum, brown sugar, cinnamon and banana flavour.

Overall, a meal at CUT is a highly memorable experience. Whilst prices are challenging, including those from the impressive wine list, this is a restaurant worthy of a special occasion, with the “modern American steakhouse” tag seriously understating the embarrassment of riches on offer. CUT and its creator truly deserve the success they have achieved in the highly competitive world of fine dining.

Humphry’s is the fine dining restaurant of Stoke Park, now open to the general public. Lined with patterned gold fabric panels and large gilt framed mirrors, this handsome, elegantly proportioned room benefits from broad bow windows for natural light. In the evening, chandelier, wall and spotlighting create a seductive, warm glow. Above, the high ceiling retains the intricate plasterwork of the decorative cornices. Below, comfortable beige carver chairs are set around well-spaced tables with fine napery.

This is the magnificent setting for the cuisine of Executive chef Chris Wheeler who is celebrating ten years at Stoke Park. A disciple of Jean Christoph Novelli at Provence in Lymington and Maison Novelli in London, then later in the Hell’s Kitchen television series, Chris has achieved distinction in his own right. Within months of opening, Humphry’s was awarded two AA rosettes and has recently been awarded a third. Harper’s Bazaar has also voted it one of the “Top 20 Best out of Town Restaurants.”

With an emphasis on seasonality, locality and freshness, his modern British cooking based on classical technique demonstrates his skill and creativity at a high level. Whilst not cutting edge – and thank goodness for that – there are elements of innovation and playful interpretations. These are restrained, with a minimum of foams, smears and other superfluous flourishes. Employing a brigade of five chefs, Chris offers a choice of set, a la carte and a ten course tasting menu, the last showcasing popular dishes over his ten year tenure.

Fine Dining Guide sampled three courses from the carte and found much to appreciate.

An amuse bouche of pea soup was deeply flavoured and not too creamy. Deep fried cod brandade provided a well-seasoned accompaniment.

A first course of seared scallops was accurately timed to produce a caramelised crust and sweet, succulent flesh. For garnishes, the earthiness of a smooth celeriac puree was balanced by the sweetness of a red apple gel. Caviar gave an element of decadent luxury whilst a slice of crisp pancetta added another dimension of taste and texture.

Another starter of crab tian benefitted from a finely-judged balance of seasoned brown and white meat. (Why do so many chefs omit the brown meat?) With a base of cubed avocado and an innovative topping of cucumber gel, together with garnishes of soft boiled quail’s egg, caviar and micro leaves, the dish was finished with a grapefruit dressing. This gave the gently bitter acidity needed to offset the richer elements.

The two main courses were veritable masterclasses in the art of meat classical meat cookery.

Lamb came in two ways: tender canon, evenly cooked to a blushing pink, and slow braised, unctuous osso bucco, with meat that fell off the bone. Roasted garlic perfumed the dish whilst roasted vegetables, crisp green beans and champ potato proved highly satisfying accompaniments. A lip smacking, reduced red wine sauce based on veal stock brought the elements together perfectly.

Equally impressive was the beef course. A tournedos, topped with a generous serving of rich, melting bone marrow, was cooked to a perfect medium rare as ordered. Set on mashed potato and wilted spinach, and garnished with wild mushrooms which added an earthy note, this was another uncompromisingly indulgent dish, enhanced by deeply flavoured classic saucing.

Desserts showed more innovation than the preceding courses but were still firmly rooted in classical skills.

A wonderfully light vanilla cheesecake was crowned with a pineapple and passion fruit raviolo, which, when punctured, oozed with delectable puree to mix with a sweet syrup spiked with chilli. A tropical fruit salsa added texture and a zesty tang, whilst a coconut sorbet of velvety smoothness completed this refreshing, well balanced dessert.

A deconstructed Snickers dessert proved to be a tour de force of playful, imaginative confectionery. Quenelles of milk chocolate and peanut mousse were paired with salted chocolate caramel, a foam of caramel and a peanut tuile.

Other aspects of the meal were exemplary. The seamless service, from assistants with gold and black waistcoats and white gloved hands was welcoming, friendly and well informed. It was helpful and efficient without being obtrusive. The sommelier chose and explained the matching Chablis, Beaujolais and Zinfandel wines with a knowledge that comes from years of experience.

Clearly, Humphry’s has much to offer the discerning guest who wishes to eat first rate food in sumptuous, exquisite surroundings. It has made a strong impression on a leading restaurant guide and will no doubt extend its appeal to others.  Fine Dining Guide will return to sample the tasting menu but in the meantime will follow the fortunes of Humphry’s with interest.

Note: Chris Wheeler is participating in the 2013 London Marathon, here is what he has to say on the subject!:-

‘In a moment of madness I decided to enter Capital FM’s competition to win one of ten special ‘Help A Capital Child’ charity places to run in the Virgin London Marathon 2013 and they picked me out of hundreds of applicants. Seven years ago I ran the marathon flipping a pancake all the way, so thought this year ( with 10 weeks prep time and no visits in the past 7 years to the gym!) I’m doing  it with a stock pot.  With your help, I aim to raise £10,000 for Help a Capital Child which supports children and young people affected by abuse, homelessness, disability, poverty and illness in and around London.  I am running for the Breakfast team, alongside Capital FM presenter, Pandora.’

Donation can be made via: http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserPage.action?userUrl=CapitalFM-ChrisWheeler2&faId=290512&isTeam=false

Competition between England’s two ancient universities has always been fierce, with top place in the academic league tables frequently changing hands. However, in the race for gastronomic excellence, Cambridge has for many years outrun Oxford, (Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons does not count as it lies outside the city limits), being the proud possessor of two Michelin starred restaurants. Of these, the more established and highly garlanded is Midsummer House, which holds two of the coveted stars.

Set on the banks of the River Cam, by the Common which gives the restaurant its name, the unremarkable exterior of this grey, two storeyed Victorian villa gives little idea of the contemporary and spacious interior that lies beyond the modest canopied entrance.  A large conservatory extension more than doubles the original dining area, giving a light, airy feel. It has views of a delightful walled garden outside and the busy kitchen inside. The décor, in natural tones, is complemented by comfortably upholstered chairs and well-spaced tables with fine napery. Equally sophisticated in feel upstairs are the private dining room, and glass walled lounge which opens out to a terrace overlooking the Cam.

Daniel Clifford’s cooking, rooted in the classics, employs finely tuned skills, advanced techniques and a measured creativity to produce highly refined dishes. Their clarity of flavour, precision of temperature, variety of texture, allied with well-balanced if sometimes unexpected combinations do full justice to the supremely fresh, high quality seasonal produce. Ingredients are sometimes cooked in very different ways on the same dish, be it, for example, broccoli, celeriac, apple or venison.  Presentation often involves a degree of restaurant theatre, with ingredients being carved or sauces being poured at the table.  Whether choosing the three course Classic, the seven course Market, or the ten course Taste of Midsummer menu, diners are assured of a truly memorable gastronomic experience.

A Market Menu lunch in early February began with crisp, warm gougeres generously filled with gruyere. These went well with the house Bloody Mary – vodka infused tomato foam spiked with shallots and peppers and garnished with a celery sorbet. This amuse bouche, demonstrating both classical and modern techniques, definitely served its purpose of exciting the taste buds.

The first course saw Cashel Blue cheese rendered into pannacotta form with the correct degree of wobble, smoothness and lightness of touch. Crisp, charred broccoli florets added a gentle bitterness offset by the soft sweetness of fresh pear, the whole dish being brought together by a warm, intense broccoli veloute poured at the table. Served in a rustic pottery bowl, this dish was a triumphant balance of tastes, textures and temperatures.

Next came a whole celeriac, cooked for four hours on the outside barbeque, and halved and scooped at the table. The warm, soft flesh with its mild celery flavour, proved a good foil for the well flavoured ham hock with parsley. Texture and flavour were added by a crisp celery Branston pickle and flakes of charred celeriac skin. Dusted with fine celeriac powder, this was a tour de force in elevating that humble, knobbly vegetable to gastronomic heights. (Wine: Midsummer House Klein Steenberg, Sauvignon blanc, South Africa, 2012)

The fish course showcased an accurately timed and perfectly seasoned tranche of pan roasted cod. A thin golden crust crowned delicately soft, translucent flakes of flesh. Wild garlic and onion puree, together with chanterelles and trompettes de mort added well-judged herbal and earthy notes which complemented the beautiful freshness of the fish. The dish was finished with a rich consommé poured from a cafetiere.  (Wine: Summerhouse Pinot Noir, New Zealand, 2009)

Next came a dish that exhibited the strengths of game cookery. Venison loin, slow roasted to medium rare, was flavoursome and meltingly delicious. A suet pudding containing the shoulder, with the rich jus cascading out when cut, was an inspired addition, adding contrasting texture, depth of flavour and an element of fat which the dish needed. Parsley root, onion puree and a chiffonade of savoy cabbage proved suitable garnishes, whilst the fragrance of pine lifted the whole dish. (Wine: Joseph Swan Vineyards, Mancini Ranch, Zinfandel, USA, 2006)

The impressive selection of artisanal cheeses, supplied by Premier Cheeses, proved to be an embarrassment of riches. We chose Epoisses, Roquefort, Chaource and Morbier, which all came in perfect condition of ripeness and flavour.

A composite pre-dessert featured baked yoghurt vanilla base, apple crumble, apple sorbet and apple crisp. The marriage of flavours, textures and temperatures was again exemplary.

The final course had a distinctly Christmasy feel. The poached figs and dates had an excellent, rich flavour enhanced by the reduced spiced wine syrup. A crisp cannelloni tuile, filled with cinnamon foam was light and airy, whilst the velvety textured gingerbread ice cream gave a creamy finish to the dish. (Wine: Banyuls, Cuvee Tradition Moulin de la Rectorie, France, 2011)

Other aspects of the meal were first rate, from the white and brown sour dough bread, to the warm sugared beignets served with good coffee. The seamless service was friendly, efficient and knowledgeable without being obtrusive. The flight of wines, chosen from a wide range, proved to be excellent pairings for each course.

Since arriving in 1998, Daniel Clifford has gradually developed both a premises and a cooking style of which he can be justifiably proud. He gained his first star in 2002 and a second in 2005. As most chefs would acknowledge, holding onto stars is in many ways more demanding than being promoted to them in the first place. That Daniel Clifford and his team have done so for over ten years – in addition to gaining four AA rosettes and 7/10 in the Good Food Guide – is a testament to their consistent high level of skill, creative talent and inexhaustible energy. Nor is further promotion in restaurant guides out of the question given the progress seen so far. Fine Dining Guide will follow the fortunes of Midsummer House with interest.

The magical setting of the Waterside Inn is unrivalled, whatever the weather. It is nestled in a tranquil setting on the banks of the Thames at Bray, where often the only sounds are those of lapping water and quacking ducks. The terrace, ideal for pre and post prandial drinks in the summer, commands glorious views of the river.

Not that all this is immediately apparent as guests approach the original white pebble dash building at the end of Ferry Road. The modest entrance and reception, insulated from the sounds within, give little idea of the Waterside’s spacious, understated luxury. The restaurant, built as an extension in the early 1970s, comprises two distinct halves: the semi- circular back section with panelled mirrors and sumptuous banquettes has a more intimate feel, whilst the front, overlooking the terrace, is fully glazed with sliding doors, giving a light, airy effect.

Only on entering this dining room is the theatre of the bustling restaurant fully unveiled.  Besuited front of house staff chatting with guests; silver domes simultaneously lifted to gasps of delight; ducks expertly carved in gueridon service; the provenance of cheeses being explained; and sommeliers offering expert wine suggestions. Against the conversational buzz of contented diners, the service is executed with seamless effort and great aplomb.

Diego Masciaga (left) with Alain Roux

Overseeing the operation is the charismatic and engaging master of house, Diego Masciaga. He has rarely missed a service and ensures he visits every table at lunch and dinner. As restaurant director, he has elevated service to an art, giving it equal importance to the food in making the Waterside experience a truly memorable one. Professional but not stiff or intimidating, the service is genuinely welcoming and friendly. Guests are quickly put at their ease, with deputy manager Frederic Poulette injecting a little wit and humour into the proceedings. Guidance on menu dishes is well informed whilst anticipatory service is excellent. How amazing that just as one is thinking of asking for a little more sauce or bread or a fresh napkin they suddenly appear.  Constant yet unobtrusive observation, attention to smallest detail, and a genuine love of the craft, all qualities cultivated by Diego, have helped to produce a level of customer care second to none.

Although it has retained three Michelin stars for 27 years, a unique achievement for any British restaurant, to describe The Waterside as a temple of gastronomy does it a disservice.  Whilst some might come to worship a chef who has reached the height of his profession, discussing in reverential tones the qualities of the cooking, the atmosphere is far less serious than this. Indeed, a feeling of relaxed formality, reflecting real enjoyment, pervades the room: “pure gold happiness” as Raymond Blanc would have said.

This is testament to those in the front of house and the kitchen in equal measure.

Alain Roux’s creativity and technical skill, initially emulated his father’s move towards a lighter style of modern French classical cooking. Now he has stamped his own seal on the cuisine, each dish being an expression of his personality.  Both luxury and more humble ingredients are treated with equal care and attention, producing skilfully crafted, impeccably balanced and beautifully presented dishes. As a master patissier, Alain’s forte for desserts, as shown in his Péché gourmand selon “Alain,” is unquestioned. Whilst not cutting edge in style – the Rouxs have never, thankfully, been slaves to culinary fashion – the cooking has, in moderation, embraced foreign influences and contemporary techniques.  The menu moves with the seasons, showcasing new creations but retaining some distinguished signature dishes such as Filets tendres de lapereau grillés aux marrons glacés, Caneton Challandais roti, and  Tronçonnettes de homard poêlées minute au porto blanc. These are likely never to leave the menu.

A birthday celebration on a January lunchtime began with champagne and a generous array of canapés: delicate olive straws; flavoursome Welsh rarebit; creamy salmon mousseline on crisp, cool cucumber; and moist, well-seasoned steak tartare topped with a soft boiled quail’s egg. These dainty mouthfuls served their purpose in exciting the palate without stealing the thunder of what was to follow.

The first course, the classical La Quennelle de brochet a la Lyonnaise,was probably the most labour intensive of all the savoury dishes eaten. Ethereally light and soft textured, the warm pike mousseline had a delicate earthiness which worked well with the intense shellfish flavour of sauce nantua. Succulent langoustine tails, barely cooked to preserve their sweetness, also provided a contrasting texture to the dish.

Next came an escalope of foie gras, seared to give caramelised crust and melting interior. Spiced with the gentle warmth of cardamom, the rich, creamy quality of this delectable piece of offal was balanced in texture by glazed root vegetables and in flavour by a well-judged sauce of verjus, the acidity of which was tempered by saltanas, giving a slightly piquant taste.

Poaching in sea water emphasised the clean taste and firm, dense texture of a fillet of halibut. A layer of oscietra “Royal Belgian” caviar acted as a seasoning and added a decadent luxurious edge. The accompanying sauce, enriched with sea urchin roe added colour and depth of flavour. Visually, also, this dish was stunning.

A main course of lamb was prepared two ways: precisely timed roasted French trimmed cutlets topped with a pine kernel crust; and braised osso bucco. Both cooking techniques maximised the flavour and texture of the different cuts – the sweet soft cutlets and the firmer, deeper notes of the leg. Einkorn risotto gave a nutty texture whilst the whole dish was lifted by a rich jus infused with rosemary.

Roasted Challandais duck, a sharing dish for two, is presented at the table and carved effortlessly with swift upward strokes. This spectacle, one of the great highlights of Waterside theatre, always draws the attention of other diners. The thin slices of duck have the texture of rare roast beef and a gamey flavour without fattiness. Paired with a ball of cabbage stuffed with a farce of leg meat and offal, and served with a spiced damson jus, which cut the richness of the meat, this is one of the Waterside’s great iconic dishes.

Frederic Poulette (Right) organizes the Challandais Duck

Given all the variety and complexity of preceding flavours, a palate cleanser was more than welcome. The lime sorbet with raspberry, drizzled with tequila successfully filled the brief, refreshing and enlivening the taste buds.

For dessert, a Frasier gateau of sponge, strawberries, cream and marzipan was ordered in advance. This beautiful construction in red, white and green proved remarkably light, the perfect birthday cake after four savoury courses.

Alongside this was the celebrated peche gourmand selon Alain, a veritable masterclass of miniature desserts. Amongst these, an exemplary rum baba was liberally soaked in the alcoholic syrup; fragrant pistachio crème brulee was a model of its kind in taste and texture; tarte tatin was beautifully caramelised; and a smooth and well flavoured vanilla ice cream had a velvety texture.

Strong coffee came with petits fours, another tour de force from the pastry section. These included tuiles, palmiers, nougat, passion fruit tartlet, fruit jellies and chocolates.

The Waterside Inn, under the strong leadership of Alain Roux and Diego Masciaga, continues to delight the guest as a progressive restaurant.  While evolution not revolution remains the mantra, the ongoing passion for excellence in all things is apparent.  No detail is too small, nor too unimportant. Everything is just so.  From a visit to the kitchen to a relaxing drink in the summerhouse, The Waterside Inn has nothing to hide, a seamless well-oiled machine but one that comes with a welcoming humility.

The inspector-led guides (such as Michelin) and reader-led guides (such as Trip Advisor, Hardens and Zagat) share equally in their admiration – a rare feat by any standards – reflecting the status of The Waterside Inn as one of the long standing restaurant greats, not just in Bray, Berkshire or Britain but in the world.

Kings Place is a major new landmark in the rejuvenation of the King’s Cross area. Peter Millican’s office development, party occupied by the offices of The Guardian and Observer, also contains concert halls, art galleries and exhibition areas which provide an attractive cultural amenity in an ultra-modern setting.

The main venue for food and drink is Rotunda Bar & Restaurant. As its name suggests, the shape of the room follows the curvature of the building design. Subtle lighting, fully glazed walls and lustrous banquette seating help to provide a stylish, contemporary venue for relaxed, informal dining. The impressive stepped ceiling, with its sweeping curves, is reminiscent of a flying saucer. My dining companion commented on the overall effect being that of a revolving restaurant, albeit one that does not move!

Nicky Foley, head chef for the last two months, has injected new life into the restaurant. With a CV that includes head chef at Butler’s Wharf Chop House and Aubaine, as well as experience at Bentley’s and Tom’s Kitchen, his experience of London kitchens is firmly established. The emphasis at Rotunda is on modern British cooking with interesting but not outlandish combinations and strong robust flavours. High quality produce such as Goosnargh duck, Rye Bay scallops, Clarence Court eggs and South coast turbot are much in evidence whilst foraged ingredients are mercifully kept to a minimum.

A few traditional dishes from Nicky’s native Ireland also feature.  These include Devilled Irish fry – crubeens, suet-baked kidney, white pudding, chestnut mushrooms, fried quail’s egg – and steamed Irish suet pudding “hare & oyster.”

However, pride of place goes to the beef and lamb. These are sourced from Peter Millican’s farm in Matten, Northumberland but are matured and butchered in the restaurant’s own hanging room to guarantee quality and purity. The menu provides useful pictures of the different cuts of the animals to aid the diner in selection. Prices range from £17.00 to £23 for one and £26 to £32 per person for large sharing cuts. “Hay baked” lamb neck costs £17.00 whist the sharing cuts are £16.60 or £19.95 per person. These might seem steep but portions are generous and there is no denying the quality of the raw material. For instance, the Limousin X beef, low in fat and high on muscle is hung for a minimum of 28 days to maximise its flavour.

Although there is a noticeable absence of pork and poultry – presumably not reared on the farm – the menu structure gives a good range of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes at reasonable prices. It features three nibbles (£2.00 to £2.75), six starters (£5.95 to £10.50, with two available in small and large sizes); five mains (£15.95 to £19.95), five puddings (all £5.95), and three savouries.(£7.50 to £15). Sides average £3.60. These prices compare favourably with charged at similar or lesser establishments.

Rotunda’s wine list, arranged by grape variety and showing an impressive range from Old and New Worlds, has prices to suit all pockets. Brief tasting notes provide useful guidance for those facing such embarrassment of choice.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in January to sample the menu.

Three nibbles were simply prepared and enjoyable. English radishes were crisp, and fresh with a gentle bitterness. The light mayonnaise spiked with anchovy and rosemary was well judged. Soft boiled quail’s eggs were accurately timed and candied walnuts were lightly toasted and not oversweet.

Pan fried Cod cheeks made good use of that often neglected but delicious morsel of fish. Their soft texture and succulent flavour worked well with the jelly like qualities of Judas ear mushrooms and the richness of bacon jowl.  Sorrel added a lemony note to balance the dish.

Rye Bay scallops were seared to produce a caramelised crust and moist, sweet flesh. Partnered with a rich duck blood sausage and lifted by celery, lemon and parsley, this was a harmonious marriage of textures and flavours. It would have been even better with more dressing and acidulation. The aromatic citric notes of the Sauvignon Blanc provided a fine match for both starters. (Wine: Domaine Horgelus  Sauvignon  Gros Manseng France 2011 )

A whole lamb shoulder (to share) was a triumph long slow cooking – 12 hours in fact. The Texel breed is leaner than most, the flavour being well defined. Nevertheless, the sweetness of the shoulder meat, so meltingly tender it could be flaked with a fork, showed the qualities of this flavoursome if more fatty cut. Given its richness and size – it could easily have fed three if not four people, this was not a dish for the feint hearted. The accompaniments of Irish champ, buttered leeks and roast squash were all competently executed, whilst a rich gravy and mint sauce brought the whole dish together.  A Bulgarian Pinot Noir with soft berry fruit proved an unusual but suitable soft red wine for this course. (Wine: Soli Pinot Noir, Moiroglio, Thracian Valley, Bulgaria 2008)

For dessert, Rosehip soup with vanilla ice cream brought a Scandinavian note to the menu. Both elements of this simple dessert were skilfully prepared, with an intense floral note to the thick sweet syrup and a smooth, velvety texture to the ice cream

Carrageen gave the right degree of wobble to a buttermilk pudding topped with a rich jelly of sea buckthorn. Here was an ingredient that evokes extreme reactions, but the dessert was well balanced, the astringency of the berry countering the creaminess of the buttermilk.  (Wine: Seifried sweet Agnes Riesling New Zealand 2009)

Service during the meal was welcoming, knowledgeable and helpful.  Manager Liz expertly advised on the wine selections as noted above. Overall, the revitalised restaurant under Nicky Foley’s direction is producing cooking of a high standard and deserves the success it has already attained. We will follow its progress with interest.