The ‘Street Food’ concept has become de rigueur for those seeking informal dining and is something to which Lebanese cuisine, seems ideally partnered. Based largely around Mezze, which like antipasto or tapas, offers the diner a cornucopia of choice, the food is vibrant, fresh and exciting and ideal for enjoying sociably with friends.

Yalla Yalla, established in 2008, is at the forefront of taking Lebanese cooking from the mundanity of Edgware Road to the hip Soho crowd. Initially based at a tiny site in the heart of Soho with only 28 seats, Jad Youseff and his partner Aga Ilska have expanded their business rapidly on the back of brisk trade, with a larger venue off Oxford Street and, more recently, a pop-up restaurant in Shoreditch.

Fine Dining Guide visited the Winsley Street restaurant on a Tuesday evening. Approaching the door, the popularity of this eatery was immediately obvious, with a large queue stretching out the door. Like many of its contemporaries, Yalla Yalla does not take bookings, however a relaxed bar area and efficient service mean that the wait for a table is far from arduous.

Drinks orders were taken quickly and our refreshment arrived promptly, accompanied by a tempting selection of the usual nibbles. Unusually, this included some extremely moreish slices of turnip that had been pickled with beetroot, along with requisite olives and fiery peppers.

As we enjoyed our drinks and accompaniments, we reviewed the menu and soaked up the surroundings. The decor, as one might expect, is contemporary and open plan, meaning noise can carry somewhat. Generally this adds to the vibrancy of the place, as does the close proximity of neighbouring tables. The walls are adorned with bright modern art pieces depicting street scenes from Beirut, and the soft furnishings appear similarly on theme, with cushions in the style of Kaffiyeh.

The menu is extensive, particularly when it comes to Mezze, and as we discovered, generous portions can make a hazard of over-ordering!

Staples such as Tabboule and Hommos were expertly delivered, with some interesting twists, for example, the Hommos Shawarma, with tender pieces of lamb shoulder were heaped upon a rich and glossy chickpea mash. This contrasted well against the fresh and slightly tart flavour of dishes such as the Samboussek Jibne, pastry parcels stuffed with Feta and Halloumi cheeses. Fine Dining Guide also sampled some more unusual options such as Makale Samak, an assortment of deep-fried seafood including Calamari, White Bait and Tiger Prawns, served with a chilli and mint yoghurt dip. One of the greatest achievements on the menu however, is the Sawda Djej, Chicken Livers sautéed with garlic and pomegranate molasses. This has been awarded the recognition as one of the top 100 dishes in 2012 according to Time Out Magazine, an accolade of which the perfectly cooked chicken livers were more than worthy.

Delicate spices and abundant starches form the backbone of most main dishes, enriched by the generous use of fresh herbs. The Lamb Casserole was rich and flavoursome, albeit slightly overpowered with Cumin. The Chicken Shawarma was more delicately flavoured, accompanied by a fresh red pepper salad.  All dishes were served with delicious buttered rice and had in common a generous use of authentic and relatively expensive ingredients, used more sparingly by some other proprietors.

Despite there being plenty to feast heartily on for the savoury courses, dessert is a treat not to be overlooked.  For those who have really over-done it, there is a decent range of refreshing sorbets. On the other hand those who are feeling more capacious will enjoy the sticky sweetness of the Baklawa selection or lighter options such as Mohalabya – fragrant milk pudding – topped with perfectly balanced Pomegranate syrup.

Prices are very reasonable, with Mezze ranging from £4-5 per dish and main dishes all coming in at less than £15. There is also a varied and well-compiled wine selection, including wines by the glass. With all this in mind, the name of Yalla Yalla seems very fitting, meaning ‘come on’ or ‘get going’ in Arabic.

At interview, Daniel Galmiche radiates warmth and charm. This classically trained chef, with extensive experience that includes Harvey’s in Bristol in the 1990s, and L’Ortolan and Cliveden since then, has set himself a new challenge at The Vineyard. Seeing the trend towards a more relaxed, consumer-led approach to dining, he now offers a unique dining concept that offers maximum choice in wine and food. Tables (to a maximum of six) can select wines and leave the kitchen to prepare dishes to match them; or tasting menus of three, four or five dishes can be chosen from a list of 18, to be eaten in any order  with the only proviso that one is a dessert.

The sommeliers will then choose matching wines from three grades, priced accordingly. There are other alternatives including the Discovery menu of the five courses with matching wines, and the ultimate Judgement of Paris menu which features two wines, one Californian, one French, with each of seven courses!

Daniel admits the new formula places pressure on the kitchen, the sommeliers and front of house. However he demonstrates the energy and determination to make it work, and has adapted his kitchen to facilitate this approach. His mainly young brigade is also committed to its success.

Prioritising the needs of his diners rather than the safer, chef-led approach that might please the guides, is paramount. Accessibility to a wider range of smaller dishes and a greater range of (sometimes expensive) wines by the glass, is equally important. Indeed, he sees this as future of fine dining. The result so far has been impressive, with a vibrant relaxed ambience and sense of fun pervading the dining room. This is especially noticeable on Saturday evenings when 90 covers are often served.

Rightfully proud of his Decanter /Laurent-Perrier Restaurant of the Year 2012 award, Daniel has been advised to trademark his unique formula before it is copied. Indeed, chefs and food glitterati have been impressed by observing it in action. Moreover, many of the guests are Londoners, keen to escape the constraints of dining in the capital.

Daniel Galmiche’s cooking style, based on the classics, has become increasingly light, colourful and fragrant, with Mediterranean influences. Employing first rate ingredients, he is passionate about their provenance and sustainability, from line caught fish, hand dived scallops, single estate, grass fed meat, to maize/hand fed foie gras. Many seasonal dishes are locally sourced.  Embracing modern techniques to enhance flavour and texture, dishes comprise relatively few ingredients, allowing the main element to shine. The use of foams, gels and purees is evident but not to excess and added not for mere decoration but to add taste and texture. Precise timing of meat and seafood dishes is a major strength which, given the various menu permutations, is a staggering feat in itself. So too is the final dressing of plates – not over-elaborate but labour intensive nevertheless. The overall result is clear flavours, balance of tastes and textures, and elegant, clean presentation.

Fine-Dining-Guide opted for a five course tasting menu with matching wines on a busy Thursday evening in March 2013.

The three breads – country farm, soda and rosemary and potato – were all exemplary in their crisp crust and delicate crumb.

A soft disc of guinea fowl ballotine, expertly poached, rolled and chilled to give a mild gamey flavour, was given a lift by the addition of lemon zest. Textural contrast was provided in the crisp yellow frisee leaves dressed with lemon and a scattering of sourdough crumbs mixed with walnuts. The luscious floral notes and minerality of the wine was a highly satisfying match with the food. (Wine: Kistier Chardonnay, California 2009)

Pressed terrine of foie gras had a creamy texture and superb flavour. Dressed with celery gel and raisin puree to give sweetness and carrot batons for texture, this was another refined, balanced composition. The magical finishing touch was spice of angels which gave a gentle anise fragrance to the dish. Again, the acidic apple and pear notes in the wine proved a good foil for the richness on the plate. (Wine: Torbreck Australia, 2008)

A tranche of foie gras was seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft melting interior. Smooth celeriac puree mixed with cardamom added an earthy warmth, whilst orange and chicory salad gave a freshness and zing which cut the richness of the delectable piece of offal.

Seared, hand dived Orkney scallops retained their sweet succulence under their caramelised crust. This was balanced by Iberico ham which added a mild saltiness with broccoli florets and gel giving a gentle bitterness. A sprinkling of blanched almonds provided a nutty textural contrast to the finished dish. The crisp, dry Alsace Riesling with lemon notes complemented these elements well. (Wine: Trimbach F Emile, France 2007)

Both fish dishes benefited from accurate seasoning and timing, with minimal garnishes. The thick fillet of Cornish sea bass had delicate translucent flakes under its crisp skin. Wilted red chard, chive dressing and a sprinkling of quinoa were lively, well balanced accompaniments. The honey and spice flavours of the dry Californian white did full justice to this to this dish. (Wine: Tables Creek, California 2009)

Softer in texture but equally flavoursome was the fillet of Cornish brill. Here, the delicate sweetness of this pan roasted fish was balanced the more robust, earthy flavours of chanterelles, salsify and Swiss chard. A rich, intense poultry jus brought the contrasting elements together well.  This dish could take a medium bodied red wine which the Pinot Noir did perfectly. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The poultry dish married the crisp skinned breast of corn fed chicken with a classic accompaniment of mushroom in puree form to intensify its flavour. Kale added both colour and flavour whilst potato and chive ribbons, stir fried slowly, gave a crisp texture and mild onion fragrance. The saucing for this dish was again exemplary. The use of the same Pinot Noir as for the brill amply demonstrated the both the versatility of the wine and the skill of the sommelier. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The final savoury dish was saddle of Balmoral estate venison, cooked to a medium rare to maximise its mild, gamey flavour. Cooking this dish reflects Daniel’s meticulous attention to detail to show case ingredients at their best: the venison is lightly brushed with espresso from his own coffee mix before being gently cooked sous-vide and finished in the pan to add colour and more flavour. Finally, before being sent to the table, a grating of 70% Andoa single estate Fair Trade chocolate from Venezuela is added. This regal dish, in all senses of the word, was master-class of game cookery, producing a tender, almost melting texture. The sweetness of butternut squash, the textural contrast of hazelnuts and pearl barley and the vibrant notes of spring greens helped to make this a highly satisfying dish. Pairing a Uruguayan red might not seem to be an immediate choice, but the one chosen had a lovely sweetness with spice and oak notes that worked well with the venison. Again, the breadth of knowledge of the sommelier and the ability to share this with disarming charm was amply demonstrated. (Wine: Preludio  Deicas Tannat, Uruguay 2010)

Often, desserts can be an anti-climax after the embarrassment of riches that precede them. This was not the case, the pastry section displaying its strengths to the full. The new menu concept requires consistency across the courses as well as amongst sweet and savoury.

Griottine cherry and cranberry terrine balanced sweet and sour elements well in a layered composition that was complemented by a fragrant pistachio parfait. The strength of flavour of the kirsch marinated cherries helped to make this a very adult dessert, white port being a very acceptable wine accompaniment (Wine: Caldas Alves de Sousa, Portugal NV)

Finally, a delicate cylinder of dark chocolate filled with ginger ice cream, and pineapple, was crowned with a tonka bean emulsion which added a characteristic fragrance of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves.

Good coffee and mini lemon tarts, passion fruit jellies and chocolate truffles completed a first rate meal. Pino Marletta, Restaurant Host Manager, ensured that service went smoothly, with dishes and wines being clearly and concisely explained. This was a highly memorable tasting menu that did not falter on any dish and which skilfully balanced the composition of courses. It is a mystery why a Michelin star has not been awarded, but it can only be a matter of time before this distinction, gained by Daniel Galmiche in his previous restaurants, is achieved. Fine Dining Guide will watch his progress with interest.

CUT at 45 Park Lane is the first European venture of the celebrated Austrian born, American chef Wolfgang Puck. Housed on the ground floor of one of the newest luxury hotels in the Dorchester Collection, it opened, along with the hotel, in September 2011. As with his other award winning restaurants, such as Spago in Beverly Hills, Trattoria del Lupo in Las Vegas, and Chinois in Santa Monica – to name but three in his empire of 20 fine dining establishments – CUT oozes glamour and  luxury.

Although some might find the narrowness of the room slightly out of character with its grandiose Park Lane setting, the high-ceiling, marbled floor, wood panelling, dramatic silk drapes and slated blinds offer an appealing club-like feel to the dining experience. They are the work of internationally renowned New York based architect and designer Thierry Despont whose cloud like, glittering chandeliers and glowing table lamps provide eclectic décor and lighting. They illuminate well-spaced, reflective tables surrounded by comfortable leather chairs and banquettes.

Art deco influences are juxaposed with cutting edge contemporary art, namely Damien Hurst’s beautiful limited edition butterfly “Psalms.” 16 of these are displayed together for the first time along the whole length of the room.

Executive chef David McIntyre from California worked in some of Wolfgang Puck’s most high profile restaurants for 13 years before relocating to London to head the kitchen. His team includes senior sous chef Sheldon Fonseca, who has a wealth of experience in top London restaurants.

Loyd Loudy, Restaruant Director, has an equally good pedigree, including stints at the Oxo Tower, Hakkasan and China Tang at the Dorchester. His young team has ensured that the impeccable food is matched by seamless professional service which is at once friendly, informative and unobtrusive.

After enjoying a speciality cocktail in the impressive Bar 45, which runs at mezzanine level along the length of the restaurant, being separated from it by upper level slated louvres, diners can descend the imposing central staircase to their tables below.

Whilst steak is the undoubted star on the menu, to describe CUT as a modern top-end American steakhouse understates the variety and quality of the food on offer. This includes ten salads and starters, three sandwiches, five steak and one lamb options, along with four seafood mains. The five desserts are also too good to be ignored. It is no great surprise, therefore, that, as a testament to his industry and creativity, and just one year after opening, Wolfgang Puck won “Chef of the Year’ in the 2012’s prestigious British GQ Men of The Year Awards.

A weekday lunch in February began with two delightful amuse bouches.

Crisp, spiced cones were filled with utterly fresh and succulent Big Eye tuna tartar.  Bound in a not overpowering wasabi aioli, and enhanced by a well- judged addition of ginger and soy, this enlivened the taste buds perfectly.

Equally accomplished were the delectable miniature wagyu beefburgers whose well-seasoned meat had a rich, melting texture.

All the three breads offered – sour dough, focaccia and onion and oats – were competently executed, with crisp crusts and firm crumb.

A starter of “Louis” cocktail was generously packed with beautifully sweet white crab meat and lobster, moulded into a circlet and set on a delicate savoury pannacotta. Avocado pieces and spicy tomato horseradish sauce gave a creamy texture and contrasting flavour which set off the seafood perfectly.  Basil leaves and puree lifted the dish with a herby fragrance. This beautifully dressed plate, with is crown of micro leaves and spots of dressing was also visually stunning.

Another outstanding first course was prime sirloin steak tartar. With more flavour than the classic fillet, the hand chopped beef had a soft chewy texture enhanced by herb aioli and given a gentle kick with capers and mustard.  A raw quail’s egg in its shell allowed the diner to mix this extra richness into the other ingredients.

For a main course, CUT’s signature tasting of beef was not to be missed. Three small portions of Devon Angus, Kansas USDA Prime and Australian Wagyu, had been grilled over hardwood and charcoal then flashed under a broiler and accurately timed to medium rare, as requested. With differing degrees of flavour and succulence, largely due to the variations of marbling, the Wagyu with its pronounced gamey aroma scored highest on the first, the Devon Angus on the second.

Sauces, condiments and accompaniments were integral to the success of the meal. Three sauces – béarnaise, barbeque and Armagnac and green peppercorn – and four mustards including  English, Dijon and Violet gave ample choice for demanding diners. A generous stack of wonderfully crisp tempura onion rings and a portion of wild field mushrooms with Japanese Shishito peppers in a rich piquant sauce proved outstanding accompaniments alongside herbed French fries and sauteed spinach with garlic.

For those who prefer a seafood main, the choices, although not as wide as the meat options, are nevertheless tempting. These include Dover sole meuniere, broiled miso glazed Scottish salmon and grilled shashimi quality Big Eye tuna.

My dining partner finally selected Scottish diver scallops. Five large specimens of this delectable bivalve were accurately timed to produce and a caramelised crust and delicate, sweet flesh. Set on a smooth parsnip puree, garnished with braised salsify and topped with deep fried parsnips, this highly satisfying dish was given a fragrant lift with a dressing of black truffle vinaigrette.

Desserts proved not to be an anti-climax, given that this section of the kitchen is in the capable hands of Executive Pastry Chef, Melissa Zahnter.

Both sweets chosen featured Wolfgang Puck’s “10” year chocolate sauce, which took that number of years to perfect. An exquisite balance of sweet and bitter flavours, it enhanced both desserts perfectly.

Amarena cherry ice cream profiteroles had light crisp choux pastry and an intensely flavoured filling that captured the slightly sour taste of the small dark fruit from Italy.

Bruleed banana cream pie with Bananas Foster ice cream adapted two classic American desserts in one combination. The rich but light layered pie, topped with caramelised banana, was complemented by a quenelle of velvety smooth ice cream packed full of rum, brown sugar, cinnamon and banana flavour.

Overall, a meal at CUT is a highly memorable experience. Whilst prices are challenging, including those from the impressive wine list, this is a restaurant worthy of a special occasion, with the “modern American steakhouse” tag seriously understating the embarrassment of riches on offer. CUT and its creator truly deserve the success they have achieved in the highly competitive world of fine dining.