North Road is a leading exponent of modern Danish cuisine. Opened in November 2010 by chef patron Christoffer Hruskova, it takes to new heights a style he pioneered in London at the Fig in Barnsbury. The move to St John Street in trendy Clerkenwell, home to a diverse range of successful restaurants, gives wider scope to attract a more adventurous, discerning clientele. There is space for 70 diners, including 14 in the mezzanine level private dining area.

The décor features natural textures and colours, with a heavy emphasis of white and beige. The elegant bar has stools designed by Norman Chermer. The stylish dining room, divided into two sections, is lit by a strikingly attractive row of giant balloon like bulbs designed by Serge Mouille. At one end, a mirrored wall adds to the sense of space and light in what is a fairly narrow room.  Tables, which line the sparsely decorated plain white walls, are well spaced and dressed with fine napery. Comfortable seating is provided by leather banquettes and classic carver chairs in light oak designed by J L Moller. Overall, the simple, clean lines and uncluttered look give a refined, sophisticated feel.

Christoffer Hruskova has a distinguished pedigree that includes experience at Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant Kong Hans, Tetsuya in Sydney and Jardinière in San Francisco. In a Scandinavian style that has reached the heights of gastronomic credibility, his cooking treats the bounties of earth and sea in a simple yet robust way that maximises natural tastes and flavours. Pickling and smoking, or serving food raw, are favoured techniques, although the technology of modern kitchens is not ignored. All ingredients, including many foraged ones, are sourced from the UK. True to his Danish roots, the chef shuns classic French and Mediterranean produce such as olive oil, olives, tomatoes and bulb garlic.  Flavours, therefore, are not strong, but pure and subtle, allowing the main ingredients to speak for themselves.

Whether choosing from the carte, or opting for the tasting menu, the diner can be assured of sound technique, clarity of flavour and clean presentation. Whilst not cheap –starters average £9.50, main courses £23 and desserts £8 – prices are justified by the quality of ingredients and the skill of cooking.  Moreover, compared with other Michelin starred restaurants in the City and West End, they are extremely competitive.

Fine Dining Guide visited North Road on a weekday evening in May 2012.  The tasting menu (seven courses £67, with wines, £49) was chosen which fully revealed the range of ingredients and cooking techniques employed.

A trio of amuse bouches immediately demonstrated the skill of the kitchen:  pork skin was puffed up to ethereal lightness; Jersey Royals were filled with a flavoursome haddock protein mayonnaise, and pickled quails eggs retained their soft oozing  yolks.

Warm malt and spelt rolls, both with dense textured crumb, were shaped like muffins and served in a miniature rustic sack. The accompanying brown butter had a satisfying nutty flavour reminiscent of beurre noisette.

The first course featured the raw Dorset crab and cockle juice jelly. The preparation technique – immersing the crab in soda water which was then frozen – preserved the wonderful sweetness of the  white meat. The cockle juice jelly, set by its own proteins and encasing coastal herbs, added a savoury but not overpowering note. Decorated with rye crisps and wild garlic flowers, and lifted with apple vinegar, this composition proved to be a taste sensation. The dry Italian white wine, with its citrus and nut flavours, showcased the dish beautifully. (Wine: Verdicchio Dei Castelli de Jesi superiore, San Lorenzo, 2010)

Scottish lumpfish roe was another course served raw. With the distinctive poppy mouth feel of caviar, it worked well with thickened buttermilk which added creaminess, the stronger taste of red onion, the gentle aniseed flavour of dill and the crunch of chicken skin crumble. Here was another harmonious if ususual combination of tastes and textures. The Chenin Blanc, with its bouquet of lush stone fruits, a hint of sweetness and tight mineral finish worked well with dish. (Wine: Montlouis Minerale+ Franz Saumon 2010)

The next seafood course of smoked native Dorset lobster was perfectly timed to retain the delicate succulence of the flesh. The smoke was so gentle that the sweet pure taste of the tail and claw meat shone through. Enveloped in raw wild and cultivated vegetables such as raddish, cauliflower and mustard leaf, this sublime dish simultaneously combined the luxury of the sea with the simplicity of the land. The high acidity and range of citric flavours in the Riesling wine proved to be another good match. (Wine: Riesling Kabinett, Forster Ungeheuer, Dr Von Bassermann-Jordan, German, 2009)

In a season where heavy rainfall has almost devastated the asparagus crop in some regions, we were lucky to have asparagus from the Wye Valley and Kent on the menu. It came in three ways: raw –in slithers – poached and pan fried, all of which captured its distinctive, strong earthy flavour. Wild garlic and truffle added a heady perfume to the dish, whilst salted, soft poached pheasant egg provided a rich sauce. This robust dish needed a richer wine, which the accompanying Sancerre, with its balance of fruit and minerality, provided. (Wine: Sancerre cuvee Maxime Vieilles Vignes, Domainde Delaporte, 2010)

The single meat course showcased Herdwick lamb, sweeter and more fully flavoured than most breeds. The meltingly tender rump had been cooked sous vide in contrast to the sweetbreads which had been pan fried to produce a caramelised crust and a rich, creamy interior. Sea lettuce, sea kale and coastal herbs provided a flourish of nutritious greenery, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a light sauce of burnt cucumber and rape seed oil sauce. The aromatic, soft dry red wine was a splendid accompaniment. (Wine: Barolo, DOCG, Vigneti in Barolo, 2007)

There followed two desserts, perhaps less exciting and accomplished than the savoury courses, but nevertheless intriguing

“Milk, pearl barley and linseed” comprised a velvety smooth milk ice cream, linseed foam, and “sugar puffs” of pearl barley. The last element had not totally worked, being too nutty to eat. The matching wine was sweet with a fair degree of acidity. (Wine: Granjo late harvest, Portugal, 2007)

Yoghurt ice cream and crisp yoghurt meringue combined sour and sweet tastes in perfect balance. Douglas fir pine ice added a lively, clean kick to this  light dessert that finished off the meal perfectly. The sweet wine with tropical fruit aromas had a fresh, dry palate that complemented the dessert well. (Wine; Juracon La Magendia de Lapeyre, Clos Lapeyre, France)

A much needed, generous serving of double espresso and petit fours – which included a fun element of candy floss and exemplary salted caramels – completed this tour de force of a meal

Service was welcoming and solicitous, without being intrusive. With so many multi component dishes, and a variety of cooking techniques, the knowledge of the staff was very impressive indeed. Overseeing the proceedings and selecting the matching wines was a familiar face, recently arrived from Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. His charm, enthusiasm and sense of humour put us at or ease and helped to make the evening a memorable one.

Clearly, North Road has made an indelible mark on the London dining scene, as confirmed by the award of a Michelin star in the 2012 guide. In an area of strong competition, and given its strengths in the kitchen, it will more than hold its own. We will watch its progress with interest.

Mallory Court Hotel, Warwickshire

My first visit to Mallory Court was for a Saturday lunch, way back in October 1986. Simon Carter and I chose a range of classical and nouvelle dishes, enjoying a terrine of warm sole and salmon with langoustine tails, a rendevous of seafood, chicken with wild mushrooms and Madeira, blackcurrant delice and a trio of sorbets. The charming Jeremy Mort was front of house whilst co owner and head chef Alan Holland produced the highly acclaimed cuisine.

I wrote in my report of the “memorable and civilised gastronomic experience…mastery in the kitchen…impeccable service.” These features are much in evidence today, some 26 years later, during which time there have been changes of ownership, management, chefs and cooking styles. Now, as then, Mallory Court is rated highly in the restaurant guides, remains a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Association and continues to be the proud possessor of a Michelin star. Equally important, the food served in the Dining Room continues to be in perfect harmony with the elegant and sophisticated surroundings of the hotel itself.

Overseeing the kitchen is Simon Haigh, who became head chef in December 2001. He won a Michelin star in 2003, which he has since retained. His new position as Executive Chef for the whole Eden Hotel Collection utilises to the full his creative talents and extensive experience. This includes spells at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Inverlochy Castle (1993-2001) where he won his first Michelin star, and Seaham Hall, where he gained three AA rosettes within a year.

Simon Haigh, Executive Chef.

I met Simon and current head chef Andrew Scott, with whom he has worked for ten years. They share the same consistent approaches towards management, sourcing of produce and menu construction

A more collaborative approach is preferred to the seemingly outdated confrontational kitchen management style: Positive results are achieved through the involvement of all – for instance in the tasting of new dishes – working as a team, with a sense of camaraderie:  a “band of brothers” as Andrew put it. This was also beneficial for staff retention, the average stay for the brigade of eight being above average at four to five years, with others returning after stints elsewhere.

Maximising the use of local and seasonal ingredients is an essential prerequisite for their range of menus. For instance beef, including the renown Dexter breed, comes from three small Warwickshire farms. Much of the fruit, vegetables and herbs come from the hotel’s extensive organic kitchen garden, about which Simon has developed a passionate interest. He regretted the rain had almost destroyed this year’s crop of asparagus, hence its absence from the menu. However, he enthused about the peaches, apricots, mirabelles and figs – amongst an abundance of other home grown fruit and vegetables – which flourish in the south facing gardens. The vegetable and herb areas, I was told, are protected by privet hedging and netting from the voracious rabbit population.

They both agreed that adapting the cuisine to suit the traditional, country house environment and differing types of clientele is important. Being both a destination restaurant, and one with regular local diners, meeting the expectations of both was crucial. One way was through a choice of menus. The seasonal carte, with six options in each course, (£59.50 including coffee and petit fours) showcases both classical and more contemporary dishes, the main courses of which might be changed daily. The daily dinner menu (£45) has a more limited choice while the six course tasting menu (£79 – with a flight of wines £130) is ideal for those who like surprises and wish to see the range of the kitchen’s expertise.

As befitting the modern setting of the conference and banqueting Knight’s Suite, the Brasserie has a more informal, contemporary menu, ranging from Caesar salad to braised ox cheek.

As might be expected from his impressive CV, the cooking style of Simon Haigh showcases and refines classical techniques. Shellfish bisque, foie gras terrine, breast of duck with its confit and beef fillet all feature on the carte. Modern elements and techniques add interest, as in “Coronation crab,” shallot textures, hot rice pudding soufflé, and deconstructed lemon meringue pie. Dishes are multi component, but not at the expense of the main ingredient, so he is careful not to gild the lily. Tastes are distinct and saucing, a particular strength, enhances rather than overwhelms. Combinations of flavours and textures are harmonious if unusual and unexpected. Timing is well judged, and presentation is artistic with clean lines.

Our dinner was taken in the long, oak panelled dining room, the crowning glory of the hotel. With only one window at the far end, wall lights and table candles illuminate the round, well spaced tables. Supremely comfortable carver chairs, fine napery and tapestry carpeting add to the sense of formal luxury. Whilst jacket and tie are not obligatory, as they were in 1986, the smart dress code was observed by all diners.

Given the embarrassment of choice, time was taken over champagne and canapés in the lounge to study the three menus. Whilst tasting menus are always attractive, we decided to choose from the seasonal carte.

Of the breads offered, focaccia was outstanding with its moist crumb and herby flavour.

An amuse bouche saw a seared scallop, perfectly timed to produce a caramelised crust and soft, succulent flesh. Curried lentils with a lemon grass and ginger foam provided a bold foil to the beautifully sweet bivalve.

The first starter featured a well seasoned ballotine of rabbit, gently poached to preserve its delicate gamey flavour. Slices and puree of baby carrot were lifted by a sweet and sour dressing. Brown beech mushrooms added textural interest whilst a velvety smooth, gently flavoured violent mustard ice cream, perched on dried crunchy grains, lifted this simple dish to lofty Michelin heights.

In another first course, the creamy, delicate quality of spiced foie gras was enhanced by a thin coating of gingerbread crumbs. Poached rhubarb cut the richness of this delectable piece of liver, whilst smoked duck and granola added contrasting flavour and texture.

Main courses were equally accomplished.

A thick fillet of utterly fresh pan fried red mullet had firm, yet translucent texture. Its robust flavour stood up to the strong tasting and well executed crab risotto and intense bisque sauce, roasted fennel added a muted aniseed flavour which complemented the other elements well.

Fine meat cookery was shown in a dish of Dexter beef. This rare breed, small in size but big on flavour, came in two forms: a medium rare fillet and unctuous, melting slow cooked shin. Potato mousseline, fresh morels, with their deeply earthy flavour, and shallot textures – tempura rings, whole and shredded caramelised – proved admirable accompaniments, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a deeply flavoured Madeira sauce.

Desserts show, possibly, the greatest imagination and creativity: Indeed a certain playfulness in evidence.

A deconstructed lemon meringue pie was, unlike many other modern versions, still recognisable as such. A rectangle of the thick, lemon curd pie was dressed with shards of crisp meringue and garnished with soft meringue peaks. A quenelle of pine nut ice cream, resting on crushed pine nuts and pine nut butter served transformed this essentially simple dessert into a highly complex and impressive one.

Another composite dessert centred on a lightly textured warm peanut cake. Richness was added by chocolate textures of soft milk chocolate mousse and firm discs of dark chocolate ganache. Salted caramel and bananas complete this indulgent confection.

Of the delightful petit fours served with coffee, the fruit jellies, macaroons and chocolates were particularly well made.

Overall, this was a first rate meal accompanied by equally good service that was well informed, solicitous but unobtrusive. Overseen by the charming Dominique, the restaurant manager who also recommended wines by the glass, the evening proceeded seamlessly to a most satisfying conclusion.