Archive for June, 2019

Interview: Pierre Rizet Mosser, (June 2019)

Posted on: June 20th, 2019 by Simon Carter

Pierre Rizet Mosser is one of the restaurant industry’s most accomplished hosts. Having been mentored and tutored by the best in the business, Pierre’s natural charm and charisma have wowed guests at each of his career staging posts. Now he seeks to travel abroad but for an hour or so we reminisce about the good times shared by so many, with the host that has befriended us all along the way. Here he speaks with Simon Carter in one of the beautiful summer houses at The Waterside Inn, Bray during June 2019.

Pierre Rizet Mosser

My Burgundian grandma was typical of the region at that time, she had a kitchen garden and cooked vegetables and collected fruit straight from the garden.  I remember helping peel the French Beans as she was preparing for one dinner, on another occasion she was using the pears she had collected to make la tarte bourdaloue  – classic pear and almond tart – so this started to make me love the family experience of cooking and preparing food.  My grandparents used to give my brother and I wine with water, whereas a six years old English boy would perhaps have had a form of squash.  My father worked six days a week and on Sunday he cooked from early in the morning, preparing the family lunch before going to church.  I remember the wonderful smell of caramelized onion, garlic and white wine reduction waking me on a Sunday morning.

After high school I had to choose a direction and decided to enter a four years catering school course at Chateau Chinon in burgundy.  The first two years was both back of house and front of house – restaurant, bedrooms and bar as well as kitchen .  The last two years was a case of specializing in front of house as I really enjoyed meeting people with that sense of theatre and occasion was important. During those final two years I was fortunate to meet the then three Michelin Star chef Marc Meneau of the restaurant L’Espérance located in Saint-Père, Yonne.

Lesperance Restaurant
L’Espérance Restaurant, Saint-Père

I worked there in front of house for three years.  Monsieur Meneau taught me respect for products, quality products prepared properly with love and attention will produce great food and great food cannot be produced any other way.  He also taught me Les Arts de la Tables, the beauty of fine glassware, cutlery and crockery and how they are best presented – the knowledge of food and drink, the arrangement of dishes and guests, the decoration of the table, the ways to receive the guests as a host, the etiquette and presentation of menus.  His wife, Françoise Meneau, taught me about generosity and attention to detail.  She was generous with both the guests and the staff, providing cakes, sweets and ice creams – I particularly remember the summer of 2003 and during the heatwave her going to the shop to buy ice creams for all the staff.  These little touches are always remembered with affection. 

Francoise and Marc Meneau
Françoise and Marc Meneau

At 2am on one Saturday night, Monsieur Meneau took me to his office and offered me a big cigar – He showed me how to light it and then told me I was to move on as I had achieved all I could by following his direction and it was time for me to spread my wings and try something new.  He gave me a Relais & Chateau book and said you tell me where you would like to go and I will send you there.  I chose The Waterside Inn in Bray.  Monsieur Meneau knew Mr Michel Roux well and sure enough, true to his word, there was a position for me to start straight away, so I packed my Peugeot 106 and drove from Burgundy to Bray to start a six and a half year love affair with The Waterside Inn. 

Waterside Outside

I learned so much about consistency, the same quality and experience of food and service had to be provided at The Waterside Inn whether it was a lunch during Royal Ascot or a dinner in late October the guest must always receive a consistent experience – Michel and Robyn Roux, Alain Roux and Diego Masciaga all instilled into me the importance of consistency.   Diego Masciaga taught me how to make guests feel special, how to give a little red carpet to everyone and manage expectation.  He also instilled the need to match the wants of each individual guest with the best you could offer. He showed me how each guest is different and understanding their requirements was key to delivering satisfaction for the restaurant.

Having reached a certain level there was less scope for further development so the time came to make a move to understand more about management.  I found the Montagu Arms in Beaulieu in the New Forest, Hampshire.  Matthew Tomkinson was the chef and in over two years I learned about managing a team of front of house staff which was a great experience. The general manager was Sunil Kanjanghat and he taught me how to manage staff in the correct way, to make them a priority as without the team you cannot look after the guests – so the staff become the internal guest to ensure the operation runs as smoothly as possible and in line with customer objectives. I spent a further two years at The Montagu Arms as Food and Beverage Manager either side of a short spell as restaurant manager at Cliveden House, although a brief experience I learned from Andrew Stembirdge , the group MD, about finance – how a restaurant and hotel are run for profit and how to achieve those goals. 

Montagu Arms
Montagu Arms, Beaulieu

I then spent one year at New Park Manor Hotel in Brockenhurst which had the attraction of catering for the family, children and dog-friendly hotel where I have learned about maintaining high standards in an environment where children expect to eat quickly but the parents still demand the highest quality of product for their children.

Throughout my career, I have had the great pleasure of welcoming returning guests, not just returning guests to a particular establishment but those customers that have followed me to my different employers.  This includes guests from France as well as from Bray and Beaulieu arriving to say hello to me, this is the greatest compliment of all.  I firmly believe that if you give a lot to your guests and you build a form of bond of trust and friendship they will travel to see you and while I take great pleasure in making my guests feel special they make me feel special, too. 

Hospitality as a philosophy for me is to treat guests like part of your family.  Life can be really difficult and challenging so families have their ups and downs and you need to recognise when you need to say sorry or when to help each other.  Likewise when a guest comes into a restaurant you need to do all you can to help them forget about their challenges and make them feel good.  Part of this is taking decisions away from the guest as they have to make decisions in life all the time.  Hospitality from a top end restaurant is about helping the guest to “perhaps have a drink on the terrace” or “more bread” or “more wine.”  This is in the context of reading the guests to ensure you anticipate what the guest needs on an individual basis, as each will be different.

In terms of the team, you need to be able to inspire them to move from point A to point B to point C…, they will look at you like a father and you have the privilege and opportunity to provide them with all the tools to be successful in the restaurant and indeed in life – the more you help the team the more one day they will give it back to you. 

Sandals St Lucia Pierre

The next step for Pierre is later in the year, to start at Sandals St Lucia with the aim to manage a restaurant at the resort and perhaps building a career in that property over a few years.  So, it is time to hit the reset button and to thank all those who have helped, trained, inspired and followed Pierre throughout his career in Britain and France to date.  The longer term future is to run a B&B in Britain for perhaps a decade and then look into luxury boutique hotel ownership, who knows maybe with a restaurant with a Michelin Star. All the best Pierre, you are a true gentleman and no doubt our paths will cross again one day.

Postscript: A special mention to people who left life too early but helped and inspired me in my personal life and career: My Dad, Robyn, Shirley, Mr Perraudin and all the people I forget. 

Interview: Mark Lewis, CEO Hospitality Action (June 2019)

Posted on: June 6th, 2019 by Simon Carter
Mark Lewis (Right, Above in England Apron)

Mark Lewis is the current CEO of the charity Hospitality Action.  Mark’s family home was in Maidenhead, situated close to Boulter’s Lock by the river Thames.  So it was a trip down memory lane for Mark to be at Roux at Skindles, next to Maidenhead bridge on the opposite bank of the river, in the redeveloped grand old hotel building of one time fame, fortune and mixed repute, less than half a mile from his childhood home. 

On this particular evening, Michel Roux Snr and Brian Turner were ‘in conversation’ over food, wine and Jazz, in the beautiful, contemporary bar found upstairs at the new eaterie.  These two legends of the industry were working with Mark to host a charity dinner.

At the turn of the 1990s, Mark’s career begun as a travel writer, including responsibility for the Rough Guides to Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore.  Having decided to settle down in the UK, Mark started a long association with Reed Publishing, initially working at Computer Weekly before making the 2004 move across to Caterer Magazine.  Mark started at Caterer as deputy editor before rising within a couple of years to editor and then from 2012 onto the role of publisher. 

Overall, Mark has invested fifteen plus years in working closely with the hospitality industry, developing a strong industry understanding combined with a broad network that has naturally provided the perfect platform for his current role with Hospitality Action.  Indeed for the last decade of his time at The Caterer, Mark was also on the board of trustees of Hospitality Action.  So in 2017, when Mark’s predecessor Penny Moore decided to retire, the role of CEO of Hospitality Action was one that Mark could naturally add significant value to, as Mark suggests, “along with the industry knowledge and network, I am writer by trade and telling compelling stories of peoples experiences is a key part of communicating the message of the charity.”

The beginnings of Hospitality Action are to be found in 1837 via the coffee shop owners of the day.  This was a time predating modern restaurants and these owners were not focused on the business of charity but looking at pulling together a communal pension pot.  As the age of Victorian Britain progressed and the notion of philanthropy spread, so the pension pot became more charitable in the recognition of a duty of care to employees.  Over time hotels, restaurants, bars, pubs and food service have all fallen under the umbrella of hospitality and so relevant to the charity.

Principle Patron Jason Atherton

Initially the charity owned a portfolio of properties up and down the land to help house those industry workers who were perhaps retired or who could not afford accommodation any other way.  A further example of a former Hospitality Action property was the PM Club in London’s Earl’s Court, which was designed to provide young chefs aged 16-24 years with somewhere to stay in return for a token rent.  In their early days, after arriving in the capital in search of work, Jason Atherton (above) and Stephen Terry were both residents at the PM Club.  Now the principle Patron, Jason Atherton has become proactive in his advocacy of the Charity, as an example starting what has become the popular Hospitality Action event called ‘Social Sunday’ (So named after his international Social Company).

In recent decades the charity has now moved away from a portfolio of property and into providing a raft of products from an Employee Assistance Programme (EAP) through to the delivery of grants to help people.  The Hospitality EAP is an outsourced full service offering with significant adopters like Whitbread and Costa among 250 business clients large and small.  The cost is £5 per person per year to the company, who absorb the cost centrally as part of the welfare benefits to staff.  Historically, Hospitality Action support has been reactive to those that had existing acute challenges.  Poverty, physical and mental health issues are the most common challenges. The Hospitality EAP is designed to offer help to prevent the problems becoming acute, so to both assist the welfare of staff and help the employer maintain a happy, healthy and productive workforce.  

At the other end of the spectrum the charity offers a contact scheme aimed primarily at the retired called Golden Friends, providing events like group afternoon tea gatherings, lunch trips through to contact via newsletters, birthday and Christmas cards. All of which helps keep loneliness at bay later in life.

Family Days Out is an event programme where the charity recognises the knock on impact to the family unit of hard times affecting the hospitality worker.  So, to support the family unit to have days out together, events like family theatre or cinema trips with some pocket money are granted to provide much welcomed support.

The general awareness in the industry of the existence, work and projects of Hospitality Action may be ready to take the next step, today these are fairly well understood in the more senior echelons of the industry.  The success of events such as Back to the Floor (See pic Top), Social Sunday and In Conversation with Michel Roux Snr are testament to the wonderful support from that peer group.  However, were you to ask those that actually work the kitchen or floor of hotels and restaurants up and down the country “Tell me about Hospitality Action,” perhaps a number may not have even heard of the charity. 

To go some way to remedy, there are bodies that represent the industry such as UKHospitality (including BHA – British Hospitality Association) and The Institute of Hospitality, through to the more bespoke bodies representing branches of work such as Housekeeping or Concierges. Mark feels the distribution of these bodies offer vital lines of communication as part of a strategy to spread the force for good message. Sally Beck’s quote (General Manager Lancaster Hotel, below), “When people know about Hospitality Action they fall in love with it!” resonates with Mark as applying in a very relevant way to three distinct categories of people: those in the industry who are giving, those in the industry who qualify to receive and beyond to a wider potential fund raising audience outside of the hospitality industry going forward.

Sally Beck, GM Lancaster Hotel

There are natural movements in the world that are helping as the lines continue to blur between the hospitality industry and the wider public. What does this mean? Consider for instance, thirty years ago when waiters were at arms length and a chef never appeared out of the kitchen. In contrast recent years have witnessed the rapid growth in the awareness and accessibility of personalities in the industry.  The role of television and modern social media has been extraordinary in changing the dynamic of the public to industry relationship. Naturally those key personalities have an opportunity to use their enhanced voice to support causes such as Hospitality Action: From top end chefs like Jason Atherton, Tom Kerridge, Heston Blumenthal, Michel Roux Snr and Brian Turner who are all strong charity Patrons and advocates.

Michel Roux Snr and Brian Turner, Patrons

Beyond this, the UK have seen a cultural change epitomised by the general trend away from formality to a more relaxed, informal and inclusive hospitality experience, which engages the general public more effectively with the industry and creates that desired natural empathy with industry charities like Hospitality Action.  “An example is tonight where the guests have been delighted to hear from industry legends and great Patrons like Michel Roux Snr and Brian Turner but moreover, from the feedback I’ve heard, those guests have a much more natural understanding and empathy for the charity they are supporting,” reflects Mark.

Looking ahead, a partial brand refresh is afoot that is to involve, as Mark puts it, “surrounding the industry by being visible where those most in need can find us” such as delivering the hospitality equivalent of the Samaritans poster at the end of Clapham Junction station, “which may be from arranging with suppliers to have The Hospitality Action details printed on the blue paper towelling used to wipe down surfaces in kitchens up and down the country.  That would be our equivalent of that poster,” considers Mark.

There are around 3.2 million people in the hospitality industry in this country and the charity raises approximately £2m per annum.  The scope for greater involvement and touch is a clear objective and with the passion, knowledge and skill set of Mark Lewis leading Hospitality Action forward it will only go from strength to strength through his tenure, making a positive mark on a 182 year old charity before passing the baton to the next custodian of the good works of such a worthy charity.