It’s all about the food at Restaurant Story. It has been ever since it opened over a year ago under the watchful eye of chef Tom Sellers. Attracting reviews at either end of the gastronomic spectrum, it is a restaurant that one simply cannot ignore.

It’s certainly not about the location. Situated just south of Tower Bridge, in a narrow space between Tooley and Druid Streets, two noisy and busy carriageways, it is easily missed by taxi drivers, even when stationary at the traffic lights with Tower Bridge Road.

Nor is it about the design. This single story building, costing an amazing £2,000,000 and on a site of a Victorian public loo, has a slatted wood and glass frontage, modest entrance and a tiny name plaque. This understatement is not unique, but it lacks the attraction of some of its nearby competitors housed in converted warehouses with river frontages oozing industrial chic. The well lit Scandinavian style interior, with its partially open kitchen behind a glass screen, well-spaced wooden tables, leather backed chairs , spotlighting and lanterns, is not displeasing, but nothing out of the ordinary. Indeed, there are few distractions if the view of the Shard from the floor to ceiling glass wall is ignored.

So it’s all about the food. And what food it is! Having opened Restaurant Story at the relatively young age of 26, Tom Sellers displays an ambitious, inexhaustible creativity.  At the cutting edge of the gastronomy, his CV includes stints at Per Se, Noma, Trinity and Tom Aiken, the last being where he really cut his teeth. This varied experience has produced a veritable cornucopia of dishes reflecting the influence of his mentors but indisputably bearing his unique stamp. Behind the snazzy modern techniques, novel combinations, whacky descriptors and playful interpretations there lies a culinary intelligence which respects the seasons and ingredients, blossoming into dishes which reveal precise execution, minute attention to detail, exquisite presentation, clean tastes and harmonious textures. Mercifully, foraged ingredients play a relatively minor role in the repertoire.

The brigade of 11 young chefs produces two tasting menus – 6 courses for £65, 10 for £85. There is also a set lunch at £35. Given the number of pre course “snacks”, the labour intensity of preparation and the quality of ingredients, all these represent very good value for money. The multiplicity of courses requires the front of house team to be both efficient and knowledgeable. In this capacity, the mainly young team had been well trained and briefed in detail on the dishes. They coped admirably with a demanding service.

The wine list of just over 200 bottles, with prices ranging from the mid £20s to £700 pays homage to the classics, especially big red, without ignoring the New World.

Fine Dining Guide visited Restaurant Story on a busy weekday lunch, finding much to admire in the food offered.

No chef takes as much care over its amuse bouches, here called “snacks” as Tom Sellers. Both in quantity and quality these visually stunning mouthfuls made an impressive start to this culinary adventure.

Crispy cod skin, almost a sine qua non of Scandinavian menus, came on crisp bread with piped dots of gently smoked cod roe emulsion, frilly carrot tops and a dressing of gin botanicals (juniper) which gave a herbal lift to the dish.

A “snack” of orange Nasturtium flowers with oyster sabayon was an inspired lively combination of produce from earth and sea.

An elegant study in green and black saw impeccably fresh English peas, with their slight nuttiness, alternated with piped dots of fragrant truffle mayonnaise. These sweet and earthy flavours complemented each other well.

In a playful savoury interpretation of a popular American confection,   Storeo biscuits comprised squid ink wafers dusted with vinegar powder sandwiching smoked eel mousse. Meltingly soft, this imaginative dish scored more on texture and presentation than on flavour.

Razor clam, crispy barley and champagne “snow” proved a veritable mini explosion of temperatures, textures and tastes.

Rabbit sandwich, packed with flavoursome leg meat, had a stuffing of tarragon cream and a dressing of paper thin slices of three different carrots pickled with bergamot. These aniseed and citrus notes enhanced the mild gaminess of the meat.

Of the ten courses proper, Bread and Dripping, which has become Tom Seller’s signature, was truly original in conception and execution. The edible candle, lit at the table and left ot burn, left a rich pool of beef dripping in the base of the candlestick, providing a dip for the dense rye sourdough. The warm bread, presented in a leather pouch, arrived with a bowl of finely cubed veal tongue, jellied chicken consommé, celery and pickled horseradish which proved an earthy mix of strong and piquant flavours and soft, fatty textures. What a bold statement to start the succession of main dishes!

Onion, apple and old Tom, saw baby Roscoff onions cooked in three contrasting ways:  caramelised to bitter sweetness, braised to a melting softness in stout, and crisped to wafer thinness. Decorated with chickweed, which it did not need, the dish was completed with a dressing of apple consommé flavoured with Old Tom gin and lemon thyme. Again, all the flavours and textures were carefully judged to produce a fragrant, well balanced dish.

Heritage potato, peas, broad beans and coal was another star vegetarian dish. Pureed to a velvety smooth puree, this rich dish probably had at least equal amounts of butter and vegetable, although the potato flavour shone through. Topped with hollandaise made with sharp dandelion vinegar, and balanced by a signature anointment of oil infused with hot coal, these dressings complemented rather than overwhelmed the sweet and nutty qualities of the potato. Fresh peas and broad beans provided an appropriate seasonal garnish.

Tale of a quail was a composite dish served in three stages. First came a sparkling clear, fully flavoured consommé. Next, served in a casserole lined with hay and heather, was a trio comprising soft boiled eggs, legs coated in a barbeque sauce and a kebab of the liver, heart and thigh. As if this was not enough, we were surprised by a final serving of the breast paired with corn puree. The sheer playful inventiveness of this dish, coupled with the precise timing of cooking which did full justice to each of the components, elevated this usually dull game bird into a spectacular, mouth-watering dish. It did, indeed, tell the “story” of its habitat, food and culinary preparation.

Raw beef, apple and summer truffle was a preparation that had the least cooking but most in terms of levels of flavour. A hollowed out apple encased layers of truffle mayonnaise covered with creamy, well flavoured beef tartare. This was mixed with tiny cubes of apple which cut through the richness, and crisp bacon which added flavour and texture. These in turn were topped with apple jelly, rye grains and grated white truffle. This luxurious element, which commanded a hefty supplement, was not an expensive superfluous flourish but an essential element, totally integrated into the composition, adding a heady fragrance which lifted the other elements. The choice of apple, with its balanced sweetness and acidity, neither of which overwhelmed the beef, also contributed to the success of this simply presented but wonderfully flavoured dish.

Lamb, grilled salad and sheep’s yogurt, as with the quail dish, showed the deft use of various parts of the animal. These comprised a strip of loin, cooked to a blushing pink which captured its tender, succulent qualities, crisp skinned, slow cooked belly – surely the most under rated parts of the animal – and a ballotine of head cheese. The richness of these elements was cut by the grilled salad and sheep’s yogurt, the latter piped alternately with an intense lemon balm puree which complemented the lamb well.

A platter of artisan cheeses, all in perfect condition, included Cornish Blue, Langres, and St Nicholas.  Damson jelly, melba fruit and  mini white loaf loaves were appropriate accompaniments.

Four desserts showed the same levels of skill, precision and creativity as the preceding courses. Fruit paired and dairy products or herbs reflect a Nordic influence, whilst ice creams and sorbets are a particular strength, revealing intensity of flavour, silky smoothness of texture, and dexterity in being shaped into perfect quenelles.

English strawberry, camomile and sweet cicely, matched ripe fruit, jelly and sorbet with traditional herbs judiciously used as garnishes. Another dessert with a more familiar combination of flavours comprised a “soil” of dark chocolate, an intense cassis sorbet, and wild berries covered in “snow” of buttermilk. A “snow,” this time of white chocolate, also garnished an accurately set lemon parfait and milk ice cream. Perhaps best of all was Almond and dill, which saw well flavoured almond ice cream, almond crumble and flaked almonds, set against a vibrantly coloured dill “snow”, dill oil and violet flowers. The subtle milky and strong herbal flavours, along with the stunning presentation, made for a memorably refined dessert.

Good coffee and even more food – raspberry coulis and rose meringue teacakes – completed this remarkable culinary journey.

This was a meal which was the result of painstakingly skilled preparation, artistic presentation and gastronomic vision. Clearly, Tom Sellers is a chef who doesn’t do things by halves, his food revealing a depth and breadth of creativity tempered with a realistic sense in extending the frontiers of contemporary cuisine. Having achieved a Michelin star in less than a year, with high marks in the other major guides, one senses that he has far more to give, that he has not reached the height of his powers. The Michelin Guide comes out at the end of September 2014, and Fine Dining Guide will watch his progress with eager anticipation.

Head Chef Martin Adams

Overseeing the brigade of three in the kitchen is head chef Martin Adams. Surprisingly relaxed after a busy evening’s service, he was kind enough to spare the time to chat about his career. This has included working with Michelin starred chefs Nathan Outlaw and Chris Eden and in the kitchens of big hotels including the Bristol Swallow, followed by the Fowey and Carylon Bay hotels in Cornwall. His present position, although in a much smaller establishment, nevertheless gives him a free rein in developing his style of cooking, which he describes as “modern English with a “fresh, exciting” feel.

With minimum of gadgetry and a preference for the classical techniques in which he was trained, his seasonally changing menu is executed with an “eye for presentation” and “solid skills.” These qualities, which include accuracy in timing, harmonious combination of ingredients with well-considered balance of tastes, textures and temperatures, were commended on Masterchef the Professionals, where he reached the quarter finals in 2012. More importantly, his cooking has gained Tudor Farmhouse two AA rosettes, inclusion in the Michelin and Good Hotel Guides, and Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay. In 2013 it was winner of the Hotel of the Year in Cotswold Life Food & Drink Awards and has been listed in the Tatler Restaurant Guide, 2014.

Regionality and seasonality are particular important in Martin’s food philosophy. Most of the produce is sourced within a radius of 20 miles. For instance, poultry comes from Madgetts Farm overlooking the Wye Valley and game and venison from Lyndley Park, just three miles away. Even fruit juices, cider, real ale and local wines are supplied by dealers in Ross on Wye, Monmouth and Tintern respectively. Foraged produce comes from Raoul van den Broucke a “local legend” based in Monmouth. The hotel’s own kitchen garden has expanded, giving more immediate supplies, although Martin’s love of seafood cookery, nurtured in his time in Cornwall, means fish and shellfish are inevitably sourced from that more distant county. On his current menu, skate is a best seller. (see food review )

The a la carte menu of six starters, (£7-£9), mains, (£14-£22) and desserts, including a cheese option, (£8-10) presents a generous choice not usually encountered in smaller country house hotels. This is supplemented by daily specials and a six course tasting menu (£60), with an option flight of wines, (£30).Considering the impeccable quality of the produce and the skills employed in cooking, these prices are realistic and fair. Portions are large by dainty London appetites, if not for local ones, and menu descriptions are detailed but still understated, giving an element of surprise when dishes arrive. Occasionally this generosity of spirit can lead to busy plates. Foraged herbs and leaves together with edible flower petals are used in moderation as garnishes.

The wine list impresses in terms of range – a combination of Old and New Worlds supplemented with British artisan producers – and price, where mark ups are reasonable. There is also a good selection by the glass and carafe. Useful notes, including those on a special list of Pinot Noir, show a deep and passionate interest. Not that other beverages are neglected, as shown in the list of local beers and ciders and the specialist tea menu.

Unable to decide from the embarrassment of choice, I opted for the logical option – the tasting menu with wines. This would also show the breadth and depth of Martin Adam’s repertoire.

The two types of bread were baked well: the crisp white roll had a light, fluffy crumb whilst the country style bread was fuller flavoured with a denser texture.

An amuse bouche of duck and black pudding fritter, crumbed and deep fried, was rich and succulent. This was a clever use of the leg meat which worked well with earthy black pudding. Melon chutney gave the required touch of moist sweetness.

The first dish comprised freshly cooked crab cakes, bursting with the rich full flavour of brown meat – so often ignored by chefs – and given a herby lift with a generous addition of coriander. Balancing this was a quenelle of crab salad, featuring the delicate flakes of sweet white meat, which provided a good contrast of flavour, texture and temperature. A dressing of sweetcorn and chilli jam which added sweetness and lively heat, brought the elements of this visually stunning dish together. The crisp white – Royal Tokaji Dry Furmit 2011 – with rich honey notes and plenty of acidity did full justice to the seafood.

The next dish of rabbit fritter – Martin seems to be like this way of preparation – was hot, well-seasoned and with a spicy kick.  A kebab of loin was soft and melting, not overcooked as is so easily done with rabbit. Whilst the garlic aioli might have been a little thicker, it did not lack flavour. The bitterness of curly endive leaves was balanced by the astringency of tiny pickled peppers which was the surprise element of the dish. The gently oaked matching red wine – Pinot Noir, Esterhazy 2011  –  with its strawberry and cherry scent, was a well- judged pairing.

Poached skate with beurre noisette was a classic dish given a new twist. The precisely timed wing had been perfectly cooked and deboned, the delicate flesh rolled and perched on soft, buttery crushed new potatoes. Accompaniments of smoked cockles, confit celery and crisp sea vegetables including samphire added flavour and texture, with extra richness given by a herb butter. Carrot puree added sweetness and colour, but was not needed to make this a successful dish. Here was a fish course that worked well with red wine – the same light Pinot Noir

Pan fried duck breast, timed to a blushing pink, had crisp skin, well rendered fat and moist flesh. The leg meat was combined in a crisp spring roll, whilst the overall richness was cut by caramelised pineapple. Sweet potato fondant proved a meltingly delicious accompaniment, wilted bok choi added freshness, cashews and burnt coconut added crunch, and a light jus rounded off the composition. This dish of strong flavours deserved an equally bold wine: the Chianti Classico ( Isole e Olena) 2010, with its tobacco and spice notes, fitted the bill perfectly.

Given the vogue for deconstructing desserts, it was pleasing to be served lemon meringue pie which had not been taken apart as to be unrecognisable. This frozen version, with piped nodules of crisp meringue on top of a tangy lemon filling, was enhanced by a even sharper lime curd. A raspberry sorbet of velvety smoothness and intense flavour, and a dusting of orange sherbet completed this refined dessert. The citrus spiked Australian Riesling proved a refreshing wine match.

In true British fashion cheeses came after dessert. A selection of goat’s, hard and blue, all in the perfect condition and sourced from artisan producers, came with a lively tomato chutney, savoury biscuits, celery, apple and a glass of rich ruby port.

Double expresso and petit fours – fudge and chocolate truffle cups – completed a memorable meal, made even more enjoyable by the welcoming, efficient service of Manager Laura Adams, cheerfully and knowledgeably assisted by Georgina Parker.

Overall, Martin Adams and his team have created an accomplished fine dining restaurant, a real foodie destination of which they can be justifiably proud, and fully deserving of the accolades already heaped on it. And yet one feels this is a chef who has still not reached the peak of his powers, whose potential augurs well for the future. Fine Dining Guide will watch his career with interest.