Our first visit to Auberge du Lac some years ago began with embarrassment: we mistakenly rang the doorbell of the main Brocket Hall residence. Our mistake had been to enter by the wrong entrance to the 540 acre estate, which was easy to do, especially at night, given the paucity of signposts both outside and within the grounds. The staff, who appeared used to re-directing unwary diners, pointed the way to the far side of the grounds.

Housed within the elegantly proportioned, converted hunting lodge overlooking an ornamental lake, few restaurants can match the idyllic, romantic setting of Auberge du Lac. The ground floor bar, with stone fireplace, soft lighting and leather bucket chairs is a comfortable place for pre and post prandial drinks. Downstairs is the conservatory dining room, carpeted with well-spaced tables and fine napery.

The modern French cooking of Michelin chef Phil Thompson is unashamedly complex. Skilled classical techniques are combined with modern approaches – aided by the latest kitchen technology – to produce labour intensive, innovative dishes. Ingredients are the finest, whether local or from further afield: Phil has avoided the tiresome, uncritical bandwagon of “local is best.”

Combinations of ingredients, sometimes with an oriental influence, may surprise, but always work in terms of taste, texture and temperature. Menu descriptions are terse, belying the intricate, multi–layered nature of many dishes. Micro herbs, smears, gels, and scatterings are not mere decorative garnishes but essential components of fully integrated creations. Presentation on a variety of porcelain and stoneware plates and bowls do full justice to key qualities of each dish.

An exciting tasting menu revealed the breadth and depth of Phil Thompson’s cutting edge cuisine.

An amuse bouche of creamy leek and potato mousse was given extra flavour and texture by the addition of smoked haddock and crisp crutons.

A large, plump scallop was perfectly timed to produce a caramelised crust and succulent flesh. The soft fruitiness of roasted pear complemented the bivalve well, whilst a vanilla flavoured puree added a savoury taste and sweet fragrance.

A generous tranche of seared foie gras was unctuous in flavour and velvety in texture.  It was paired with an innovative coconut sponge and garnished with blackberry, the fruity acidity of which cut the richness of the liver. Frozen yoghurt gave the dish the added dimension of coldness which contrasted with the warmth of the delectable offal. The result was a taste explosion in the mouth.

Another successful combination saw earthy, nutty cep mushrooms paired with meltingly rich pig’s head brawn. Although yeast butter added further lushness, the sweet acidity of pickled grapes and peppery kick of watercress gave the dish the balance it needed.

Serving raw seafood might appear a risky strategy, but the tiny Myler prawns – a relatively new ingredient on top end menus – were delicate, sweet and simply dissolved in the mouth. Deeply flavoured roast shrimp dashi complemented the uncooked prawns well. Pink fir apple potato gave substance and texture to this simple yet sophisticated dish.

A granite of tarragon, dressed with apple, beetroot and buttermilk, was a cool, herby palate cleanser which enlivened the taste buds.

How pleasing to see mutton – so often shunned in fine dining restaurants – on the tasting menu.  For those who tire of the ubiquitous lamb, no matter how sweet and tender, this grossly underrated meat delighted with its robust flavour and firm texture. Goat’s cheese added a muted lactic sharpness, whilst charred leek gave a smoky but not overpowering flavour. Autumn truffle shavings lifted the whole dish with a heavenly fungal aroma.

A quennel of Roquefort mousse of smooth consistency was well judged in its tangy flavour and muted pungency.  Quince jelly and a port based sauce added a balancing sweetness.

A pre dessert scoop of toffee apple parfait, beautifully smooth in texture and caramelised in flavour. It came with a well executed sugar tuile and accompanying sorbet.

Fresh figs benefitted from being poached in port which offset their natural blandness, adding a deeply rich sweetness. Their softness was complemented by pain perdu and worked well with an bitter dark chocolate dressing and vibrant citral notes of orange gel. This was another exemplary combination of flavours and textures.

Other aspects of the meal were equally impressive: tiny choux puffs filled with chicken liver parfait were star canapés; a dish of mackerel rillettes was a pleasing alternative to butter for spreading on tomato bread; a delicious smoked bacon brioche had a crisp crust and buttery crumb; and chocolate truffles were skilfully executed.

Service was efficient and well informed. The sommelier chose and presented matching wines from an impressive list. The consummate ease with which she did this reflected knowledge and experience.

Clearly Auberge du Lac is a restaurant of distinction, recognised by high ratings in most of the leading food guides. It remains a mystery why it has recently lost the Michelin star it held since 2009. However, this can only be a temporary aberration, given the accomplished skill and quality ingredients displayed on the tasting menu. We look forward to next year’s guide with interest

This article covers notes from an interview with Lucknam Park’s Michelin starred Executive Chef Hywel Jones, a comprehensive review of the flagship ‘Park Restaurant’ as well as a brief overview of the second restaurant – The Brasserie.  At the time of writing, Head Chef of The Park was Richard Edwards and Head Chef of The Brasserie was Benjamin Taylor.

Executive Chef, Hywel Jones has garnered many accolades for The Park including a Michelin star, held since 2006, Hotel Chef of the Year (2007) and high marks in all the top food guides. Whether talking about his regime in the kitchen, or Welsh venison and Wye Valley second season asparagus, a passion and genuine love of his craft is fully evident. There is also a keen sense of duty, to his kitchen team in particular and to the hotel in general.

Executive Chef - Hywel Jones

With a brigade of 22 to cover both The Park and The Brasserie, each of which has head chefs, he is able to provide opportunities to work in both styles of service. His philosophy of kitchen management, inspired by his mentor David Nicholls, is simple: treat people the way you want to be treated, speak to them as you would your own family, creating a positive environment of mutual respect. In that way, the sum of the parts will perform to its very best.

He reinforces this approach with visits to suppliers of organic produce, recent ones being farms in Wales and Devizes. Here, staff can gain a fuller understanding of their provenance which helps to build a respect for ingredients in the kitchen, stimulating suggestions for their use. The head chefs in both kitchens are encouraged to offer new dishes as specials, which later might be permanently included in the carte.

Although menus reflect the seasons, Hywel is realistic enough to appreciate they have to be altered gradually, not changed wholesale. Indeed, it would be unwise to take certain dishes – like the hugely popular belly pork – off the menu.

Unlike some other (nameless) top chefs, he sees his role not merely as an outlet for gastronomic creativity, to be foisted on diners through a limited range menu. Indeed, the guests’ preferences are paramount, as reflected in the wide choice offered in both restaurants.

Having worked for Macro Pierre White, Nico Ladenis and David Nicholls, Hywel’s forte lies inevitably in the realm of fine dining, for which, he accepts, there will always be a niche market. Nevertheless, he sees the future for eating out lying in a simpler, more casual brasserie style. As he says, “Food does not have to be expensive and complicated to be good”.

That Hywel planned to stay for five years but is now in his ninth speaks volumes about his job satisfaction and commitment. He must be particularly proud that he has mentored two award winning chefs: Hrishikesh Desai, Roux Scholar (2009) and National Chef of the Year (2010); and Mark Stinchcombe, Young Chef of the Year (2010), Young National Chef of the Year (2010, from the Craft Guild of Chefs), and the “Award for Excellence (2010, from the Academy of Culinary Arts)

Not that Hywel wants to stand still: new ideas for the menu constantly evolve, and broader challenges emerge. In the short term he is finalising the November opening of the Cookery School. Next year he aims to extend the vegetable garden and to keep bees on the estate. Two Michelin stars and four AA rosettes would not be unwelcome, provided, he stresses, they are achieved without compromising his overall role at the hotel.

Hywel’s style of cuisine has deep classical French roots, although it is much lighter in composition. High levels of skill are demonstrated in precise timings, using a variety of cooking techniques – with the aid of modern technology- to enhance the inherent qualities of first rate produce.  Combinations of organic, often local, ingredients are harmonious, with the main element always taking centre stage on the plate. Purity of taste, with a strong regard for balance of flavour and texture are emphasised. Contemporary elements such as jellies, purees, foams and micro leaves are used in moderation, but are integral parts of a dish rather than mere decoration. Presentation has clean lines, which add to the overall appeal of the dishes.

The Park Restaurant at Lucknam Park Hotel

The carte offers ample choice with seven starters, seven mains, three desserts and a cheese option. The gourmet menu, with a vegetarian alternative, features seven stages, including an amuse surprise and pre-dessert.

Over drinks in the library, we enjoyed well-made canapés: corned beef hash fritters with a tasty hot filling; delicate cones of salmon rillettes; and crisp black olive straws.

An assiette surprise comprised a plump seared hand dived scallop topped with delicate, lightly cooked myler prawns – a relatively new addition to fine dining menus. The sweetness of the seafood and its butter sauce was balanced by the gentle bitterness of wilted iceberg lettuce.

As an unashamedly indulgent diner, I was pleased to see a torchon made from duck foie gras, which is richer and gamier than its smoother goose counterpart. This labour intensive dish had been skilfully marinated, poached, chilled and rolled, doing full justice to a delectable piece of offal.  The accompaniments showed contemporary techniques applied well: compressed pear had an enhanced colour, texture and flavour, whilst chamomile and Sauternes jelly showed a good balance of floral and sweet elements.  (Wine: Riesling, Eroica, Chateau St Michelle & Dr Loosen, Colombia Valley, Washington state, USA, 2010)

An extra course from the carte came next. A fillet of Devonshire Rose veal was accurately poached to maximise its delicate flavour and melting texture. More intense and richer was its sweetbread (pancreas), the creamy texture of which was lifted by a glaze of pancetta. With a light jus and garnishes of girolles, truffle and marinated salsify, this was a brilliantly conceived and skilfully executed autumnal dish.

A Cornish turbot fillet formed the centre piece of the fish course. Braising allowed the moistness of the firm, succulent flesh to shine through. Plump glazed crayfish, were sweet, soft and tender. Carbohydrate came in the form of crisp cylinder of potato vermicelli. Pak choy and broad beans added colour, texture and flavour, whilst two complementary sauces – an intense bisque, and a fragrant lemongrass butter – brought this tour de force of seafood cooking together. (Wine: Pinot d’Alsace Metiss, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace, France 2009).

The game course featured Brecon venison from Andrew Morgan’s estate. The fully flavoured loin was precisely seared, giving a caramelised crust and medium rare flesh. A rolled lasagne (rotolo) of butternut squash and chestnuts, along with their purees, were earthy and robust. All these were balanced by a not over sweet sloe gin sauce.  (Wine: Cabernet Franc, Broquel, Trapiche Mendoza, Argentina, 2009)

From an impressive selection of British and French cheeses we chose Mont d’Or, Epoisses and Somerset Cheddar, all in perfect condition.  (Wine: Quinta da Romaneira, L.B.V. Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2005)

Layered cucumber jelly, apple and yogurt foam was the refreshing palate cleanser and pre dessert

A trio of desserts was an exquisite marriage of tropical flavours. An intensely flavoured but light passion fruit cream was glazed to produce a wafer thin, bruleed crust; lemon grass sorbet delighted with its herby astringency and velvety texture; and mango and lime leaf mousse, served in a shot glass, captured the essence of the fruit. (Wine: Pinot Gris, Vendage Tardives, Grand Cru Sonnenglanz, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace France, 2006)

Other aspects of the meal deserve praise. Of the breads offered, focaccia, which came in a flower pot, was beautifully moist with a good balance of olive oil, salt and cheese. French baguette and brown bread were equally well executed. Macaroons and truffles served with good coffee showed the same painstaking attention to detail as the preceding courses.

Service was friendly, efficient and attentive without being obtrusive. Claire, our waitress for the evening, spoke enthusiastically about her training at Lucknam Park as part of the 10/10 scheme.

The flight of wines was expertly chosen from the extensive list to complement the dishes perfectly. Both wines and food were introduced concisely, avoiding the extended explanations that can delay their enjoyment.

Overall, dining at The Park was a joy, a highly memorable experience and one for which we, like many guests, are eager to repeat.

Lucknam Park Brasserie

Arriving too early to check in, we decided on an impromptu single course lunch; and we were pleased we did. A classic British dish was raised to lofty heights with three plump, succulent middle white sausages, deep, rich onion gravy, and creamy, velvety smooth mash potatoes. A fillet of hake was perfectly timed to produce soft glistening flakes of sweet flesh. Roasted purple and golden beetroot were flavoursome accompaniments, giving textural contrast.

With its contemporary designed bar, lounge and restaurant areas, The Brasserie is a spacious, stylish venue for casual, all day dining. The open plan kitchen, complete with wood fire oven, offers a surprisingly wide range of dishes, including healthy options – possibly for those using the adjacent spa? There is also an excellent value set lunch available.

Overall Lucknam Park was a first class retreat, not just for the comfort and pampering on offer but also as a gastronomic tour to remember.

Chefs Chris Staines (left) and Olly Pierrepont

For a major tourist destination as famous as Bath, the relative absence of quality restaurants – with a couple of exceptions – is surprising; or perhaps not, given that most tourists, especially day trippers, tend to play safe and go for well known, if mediocre, chains. But for those staying longer, the choice is still disappointingly limited.

In the light of this, the opening of Allium Brasserie is a much needed addition to the Bath restaurant scene. Located in the Abbey Hotel, near the city centre, the interconnecting white walled dining rooms are decorated with large mirrors and abstract murals. Plain, well-spaced tables, attractive purple upholstered seating and linoleum flooring complete the modest, yet pleasingly furnished room

At the helm is Chris Staines, who retained a Michelin star for seven years at Foliage, Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge. Prior to this, he was Chef de Cuisine at Marco Pierre White’s Oak Room, which held 3 Michelin stars. Ably assisted by sous chef Olly Pierrepont, late of Coworth Park, this partnership represents a wealth of experience at the highest levels.

It is a testament to the sheer range and versatility of their skills that Chris and Olly, leading a small but talented team in a cramped kitchen, can produce a variety of dishes to please both casual diners and those seeking more sophisticated, fine dining options. Whatever the choice, precise cooking of carefully sourced ingredients will result in flavoursome, well balanced dishes. Presentation, especially of starters and mains, has clean lines reflecting conscious artistry. Food influences are world-wide and portions are generous

All day dining from 12.00 noon to 9.00 includes snacks (£3.50 to £4.00), salads and starters (£7.50 to £9.50) mains (£14 to £24), and desserts and cheese. An excellent set lunch menu (£14.95 for two courses) and afternoon tea are also available.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a week day lunchtime to sample a selection from the main menu. An accomplished sourdough rye bread had a good bake, with a crisp crust and firm crumb. Four snacks immediately impressed.

Mandarin segments were the perfect vehicle for shrimp jam, which combined sweet, sour and spicy flavours. Spiked with chilli, peanuts and coriander, this engaged the taste buds full on.

Serrano ham “Croquetas” featured breaded croquettes packed with Pata negra Spanish ham. Fresh from the deep fryer, these had a hot, moist and flavoursome interior

Sticky barbeque pork ribs were enlivened with a sprinkling of  of spring onions and chilli.

Quail Scotch eggs were perfectly timed to produce a soft, blushing yolk encased in succulent middle white pork sausage meat. Apple chutney cut the richness of this dish perfectly.

Be warned: the size of starter dishes can be the same as main courses in other restaurants.

The first was an innovative celeriac soup garnished with a “Waldorf salad” of apple, celery and caramelised walnuts. Atlantic prawns added flavour and textural contrast, whilst a chestnut cream added further richness

Vegetarians and carnivores alike could not fail to be impressed by the Salad of Priory farm autumn vegetables. A selection of braised autumn root vegetables and wafer thin slices of deep fried Jerusalem artichoke were dressed with candied pears, sherry vinegar and pickled walnuts. This dish was a triumphant balance of savoury, sharp and sweet flavours with contrasting soft and crisp textures.

A fish starter was another excellent harmonious combination. “Loch Duart” salmon combined the sweet and salty elements of its miso cure in equal measure. A sesame crust added flavour and contrasting texture. A deep fried fritter retained the ozone freshness of the oyster within and pickled cucumber, grapefruit and wasabi dressing gave a fresh, lively kick. Served on a dark plate garnished with curls of mouli, this dish was also visually stunning.

Roast quail, well timed to retain its moist flesh, was enhanced by a glazed chilli caramel, giving it a sweet and spicy lift. Chinese cabbage, hearts of palm, lychees, peanuts and coriander garnishes all contributed to the success of this dish

Both main courses demonstrated considerable skill and finesse in handling top rate produce. Here was the excellence that gained Chris Staines a Michelin star earlier in his career.

Roasted grey leg partridge was timed to allow its gentle gamey flavour and soft texture to shine through. Wet polenta, poached quince and deep fired sage leaves added savoury, sweet and herby elements bought together with the bird by an intense sauce of roasting juices thickened with chicken livers and spiked with chilli.

In my view, sustainable Pollock has rarely, in terms of taste and texture, been an equal substitute for endangered cod. The fillet cooked at Allium was a delightful exception: its soft, glistening white flakes and pronounced flavour were a revelation. The soda bread crust added texture, whilst smoked leeks, mashed potato and taramasalata sauce complemented the fish well.

Replete with good things, we were unable to sample the desserts. There could be little doubt, given past experience at Foliage and Coworth Park,  they would of the same high standard as the savoury courses. Lychee panna cotta, pineapple, mango and lemon grass granite or mille feuille of caramelised apple, crème mousseline, cider jelly with caramel ice cream both sounded extremely tempting. There was an embarrassment of choice of two more desserts or a selection of cheeses

Other aspects of Allium warrant attention. The wine list has range from the New and Old World  at competitive prices the  bottle and glass. Service is efficient, friendly and well informed.

Overall, Allium deserves the success it has already gained locally and needs to be appreciated by those from further afield. The “Brasserie” tag understates the quality of the cooking even if it represents the overall style. In The Great Bath Feast of 2012, Allium  attracted Tom Kerridge of the Hand and Flowers as a guest chef. Restaurant critic Giles Coren recently launched his book How to Eat here. We will watch its progress in Bath with interest.

Father and son team - Simon & Dean Bonwick

Postscript: Simon and Dean Bonwick have subsequently moved on from The Half Moon at Cuxham to take up positions respectively as a Private Chef and front of house at a Michelin three star address.  Fine Dining Guide wish them every success in their next adventures!

Father and son Simon and Dean Bonwick recently embarked on an exciting new venture in Cuxham, a tiny hamlet deep in the countryside between Henley and Oxford. Under the new ownership of the Radhost group, they have taken over the Half Moon, a delightful 300 year inn with thatched roof, low beamed ceilings, stone floors and original fireplaces. With two dining areas separated by a central bar, they aim to offer high quality food and drink, served informally, in comfortable, relaxed surroundings. Whilst the concept is hardly original amongst food led pubs, the execution can so often be found wanting. Happily, this was not the case when Fine Dining Guide visited the Half Moon on a Tuesday evening in early October.

Not that this should be a surprise given the pedigree of those at the helm. Head chef Simon Bonwick has twenty years experience, most recently at The Black Boy in Hurley and The Three Tuns in Henley, both of which were recognised in major food guides. Manager Dean’s CV includes incomparable front of house experience at the Michelin starred Waterside Inn and Les Pres de Eugenie in France.

Connoisseurs of beer, wines and spirits will be enthused by the range craft beers, cask ales, the small slate of fine and rare vintages, English champagnes, single malts and rare eau de vies. The extensive list also offers wine by the glass and carafe

However, the main attraction is the daily changing menu offering five options in each course, supplemented by fresh fish and game specials. Given the quality of the cooking and the generous portion sizes, prices are eminently reasonable: starters are £4 to £7; mains £11 to £15; and desserts £5.50. An excellent value two course set lunch is a mere £10.

Using the finest of seasonal and local ingredients, Simon Bonwick’s cooking, based on classical techniques with occasional Middle Eastern influences, exhibits strong, robust flavours, harmonious combinations, precise timing and simple, elegant presentation.

Our menu comprised mixture of dishes from the menu and specials of the day

A first course saw herb flecked risotto cooked to a well judged, creamy consistency garnished with sauted wild mushrooms, the deep earthiness and sublime fragrance of which balanced the soft texture and delicate flavour of the rice. (Wine: Veuve Clicquot Rose, 2004)

Next came a generously sliced torchon of foie gras. This delectable piece of offal, skilfully marinated, poached, chilled and rolled, had a silky buttery texture and mild creamy liver flavour. It sat on a bed of Puy lentils cooked al dente and dressed with Xeres vinegar which gave textural contrast and a gentle acidity to balance the richness of the foie gras. The accompanying toasted brioche was a model of its kind. (Wine: Juracon “Jardin de Babylone”, 2009)

A well timed fillet of Dover sole came with “Dukkah seasoning,” a flavoursome crust of herbs, nuts and spices. This Egyptian influence, possibly the result of Simon Bonwick’s time as personal chef to the Al Fayed family, gave a Middle Eastern feel to the dish. The braised butter bean accompaniment added complexity with its “bitter notes” seasoning. (Wine: Chateau Mousar White, 2004)

The “Assiette aux trois saveurs,” was a veritable tour de force of meat and game cookery. Braised veal cheek was unctuously rich with a melting texture. Partridge farci, was beautifully tender with a gentle gaminess. And “coco” loin of venison, cooked medium rare, showed the meat at its best. A deeply flavoured reduced red wine sauce, spiked with rowanberry  to add a hint of sweetness, brought these elements together well.  (Wine: Chateauneuf du pape, “Vieux Telegraph”, 2000)

Desserts, created by Marc Paley, showed the pastry section was also on top form.

Mango, raspberry and passion fruit sorbets impressed with their intense tastes and smooth textures. Basboussa, a light Egyptian semolina cake laced with syrup, came with an attractive western garnish of white chocolate and fresh raspberries. Rich lemon posset had a good balance of sweetness and acidity. The accompanying tuile and brandy snap biscuits were particularly fine. (Wine: Chateau Guiraud, 1999)

Other aspects of the meal, the breads at the start and truffles and shortbread with coffee were all well made.

Wines were chosen and dishes served by Dean Bonwick, who trained under the master of front of house service, Diego Masciaga of The Waterside Inn. Dean’s natural charm, combined with professional etiquette and detailed knowledge of the food and wine, made him the perfect host.

Overall, our meal was a highly memorable one. As the first joint enterprise by father and son, the Half Moon deserves to succeed.

Once news spreads, the disadvantages of its location – on a B road north of  Watlington – will be outweighed by the excellence of its food, drink and service. We wish Simon and Dean well.