Interior of The White Oak in Cookham, Bershire

The attractive Berkshire town of Cookham, just north of Maidenhead, has never been short of places to eat and drink. Its riverside walks, picturesque old village high street and famous Stanley Spencer Gallery attract large numbers of visitors each year, whilst its largely professional population, familiar with many celebrated restaurants in this prosperous part of the Thames Valley, are amongst the most discerning diners in the south east.

The White Oak is a well established pub located on the Pound, a narrow link between the older and newer parts of Cookham. The long, red brick exterior, designed in a neo Georgian style with sash windows presents an attractive facade. Inside, the reception, bar and dimly lit lounge lead to a long 55 cover dining room with French windows at the far end leading to a terrace and garden. Furnishing and fittings are a harmonious blend of rustic and modern chic. Oak veneered undressed tables, in a variety of shapes and sizes, are well spaced and paired with an assortment of chairs, including a few in a reproduction Louis XVI style. Along the length of the room, a banquette in reddish brown leather offers comfortable alternative seating. The décor is a pleasant coffee and beige, punctuated by faux 18^th century mirrors, sepia photographs and a variety of prints. Chandeliers, hanging lampshades and spotlighting offer ample illumination.

Having undergone changes of ownership, The White Oak is now in the hands of   Henry and Katherine Cripps, passionate restaurateurs who are also the proprietors of The Greene Oak in Windsor and The Three Oaks in Gerrard’s Cross. Although all three “country pubs and eating houses” offer delicious, well cooked food, it is The White Oak that is well on its way in achieving distinction. This is largely because of pedigree of its current chef, who has been in post since November 2011.

Head Chef Clive Dixon

Clive Dixon has followed in the path of an increasing number of those in his profession who have forsaken fine dining for a simpler, more accessible style of cooking. Having gained a Michelin star at Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter, and with experience in the kitchens of top chefs such as David Everitt-Mathias, Pierre Koffmann and Heston Blumental, his CV would open doors to any restaurant of his choice. Instead, he has decided to become chef patron of his own gastro pub. With no shortage of competition from a variety of cuisines, his modern British cooking has nevertheless hit the mark, attracting a regular, enthusiastic clientele.

Not that “simpler, more accessible” cooking is less demanding on the chef; far from it. Ingredients have to be impeccable and there is nowhere to hide if preparation and cooking are not spot on. In these respects, Clive Dixon’s strong links with some of the UK’s top suppliers, notably Aubrey Allen butchers and Channel Fisheries of Brixham, coupled with his fine technical skills, have put him at a distinct advantage. Produce – whether humble or elevated – are treated sensitively, combined to showcase taste and texture, cooked with precision, and presented in a pleasing, unadorned rustic style. The lack of pretension, with the true flavours of prime ingredients shining through, is a major strength here.

A seasonally changing menu of eight starters, eight mains and six desserts including cheese, allows for the full range of cooking skills to be demonstrated, with some unusual as well as familiar options. Tea smoked salmon and hay cooked ham feature on the starters; confit duck, Wagyu burgers and steak and chips are amongst the mains; and crème brulee or hot brioche doughnuts are two of the dessert choices.

Fine Dining Guide visited White Oak on a Friday evening in June.

Olive and pumpkin bread were both well made, with crisp crusts and firm crumb.

From the main menu, a playful “Crab sandwich” starter was a delight. Instead of the usual white meat came a generous serving of the much underused but flavoursome brown meat, mixed with mayonnaise and herbs to cut its deep intensity.  This was sandwiched between thin, melba toast like layers of crisp pumpkin bread called snippets and garnished with peppery land cress.  Overall, the components formed a lively, fresh tasting dish.

Another more robust starter featured a stew of cuttlefish. Gently braised in red wine with a base of onions, garlic, tomatoes and stock, this underrated cephalopod was tastier than squid and softer than octopus. This was a fine example of slow food at its best.

The two main courses sampled were models of their kind – tried and tested classics.

Pan fried skate was precisely timed to do full justice to the soft melting texture of the mild, sweet flesh. The thick wing, dressed with capers, lemon and beurre noisette, had all the piquant vibrancy and nutty butteriness associated with dish. The vegetable garnish, a cauliflower puree, had a caramelised quality which worked well with the other elements. The generous portion of triple cooked chips, although expertly rendered, were not necessary to complete the dish.

A main course of Cornish lamb – favoured above more local breeds – again featured an underused cut, the neck fillet, which is sweeter than the ubiquitous chump or rump. Seared and cooked pink to maximise its flavour, this perfectly seasoned piece of meat came with deep fried sweetbreads, the creamy texture, crisp coating and pronounced flavour of which worked well with the fillet. The accompaniments – creamed cabbage, confit potatoes, roasted garlic came and a rich jus were skilfully executed, making this a well rounded dish.

Desserts demonstrated skill in execution.

A well made individual strawberry trifle was given extra texture with the addition of crushed meringue. The addition of lavender in the custard was precisely judged so as not to be overwhelming.  Here was a successful twist on a classic dessert.

With starters ranging from £6 to £9, mains £12 to £25, and desserts £6 to £7, dining at The White Oak is accessible to most pockets. In addition, the Menu Auberge, three courses for £19, available at lunch and dinner offers exceptional value for money. A select list of wines, by the glass and bottle, also offers a good range at reasonable prices.

More important are the unquestioned quality of the cooking and the welcoming, friendly service. In particular, Jay, the engaging manager, spoke with detailed knowledge and enthusiasm about the restaurant in which he takes particular pride.

It is easy to see why The White Oak has become a successful neighbourhood restaurant. Far from producing food for the lowest common denominator, Clive Dixon has made a virtue of simplicity, attracting a sophisticated clientele who appreciate the care and attention needed at his level of cooking. We will follow his career at Cookham with interest.

Head Chef Phil Cubin

At 24, head chef Phil Cubin’s youthful looks belie his considerable experience in the kitchens of renowned restaurants such as Sharrow Bay and Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons. After three years as Gilpin Lodge’s sous chef, he recently succeeded Russell Plowman, one of his key mentors. Phil’s gentle temperament, open personality and modest character make him instantly likeable, and are reflected in his calm regime in the kitchen. This is built on a highly organised approach to his brigade, with detailed guidelines to ensure consistency of execution. His team of seven is nevertheless given ample room for personal development, whilst contributing to the success of the kitchen as a whole. For instance, the recently completed Spring Menu, with six choices in each of the three courses, is the result of a long series of tastings involving his whole brigade and the front of house team. Certainly, Phil is anxious to develop the strengths of those in his charge, while their passion and willingness to learn remain strong.

Keen to stamp his own identity on the cooking, Phil’s style reflects a more natural than scientific approach. Appreciating the high quality of seasonal produce – including foraged ones – in the Lake District, his dishes exemplify the respect and sensitivity with which they are treated. Often inspired by the prime quality and beauty of a single ingredient, his preparation and mainly classical cooking techniques, along with careful selection of garnishes, are designed to highlight the freshness and flavour of the star element. Over elaboration, he understands, will not achieve this end.

In autumn and winter, grouse, hare and venison have proved to be popular choices. Although it is still early days, spider crab, salt cod and lamb dishes on the new spring menu have proved equally popular. In addition to his five course Gourmet Menu, Phil has recently introduced a three course Simply Grill menu featuring pork rillettes, cote de beouf and crème brulee.

Fine Dining Guide had two opportunities to sample Phil’s five course menu, finding much to admire in the restrained innovation, precise cooking, clean tastes, fine balance of tastes and textures, and elegant presentation.  Over pre-prandial drinks in the lounge, different canapes were offered each night: black pudding bonbons, cheese straws, smoked salmon with crème fraiche on first, haddock goujons, aubergine mousse and olive straws on the second. Well executed, these were light, flavoursome mouthfuls.

Of the two three types of breads offered, rosemary focaccia, was outstanding in its moist crumb and crisp, fragrant crust.

A delightful amuse bouche comprised crispy, well seasoned ham hock, tangy home made piccalilli and soft boiled quail egg.

Another, a velvety cauliflower veloute, given added texture and flavour with thinly sliced florets and diced bacon, elevated this potentially bland vegetable to gastronomic heights.

Amongst first courses, a new take on a classic featured warm salt cod brandade deep fried in a crisp batter. Pickled vegetables cut the rich savoury elements of the fish whilst saffron aioli and parsley puree served as two contrasting sauces.  (Wine: Fuentemilano Verdejo-Viura, Castilla y Leon, Spain)

Seared foie gras was well timed to produce a caramelised crust and melting interior. Accompanied by ethereally light watercress tempura, baby watercress, crispy chicken skin shards and a sauce of beetroot juices, this was a brilliantly conceived and well executed dish.  (Wine: Terra de Asorei Alborino, Rias Baixas, Spain)

A starter of cold lobster had been well timed to retain is succulence and sweetness. Served with a simple salad of cucumber, tomato and fennel, the crustacean was allowed to take centre stage.

Phil’s signature main course proved to be a truly innovative triumph of tastes, textures, flavours and colours. Plump, west coast Scottish langoustines, wrapped in lardo di colonatta to protect their delicate texture and enhance their wonderfully fresh taste, were gently pan fried to give colour and extra flavour. This inspired technique was both simple yet skilled. Deeply flavoured squid ink risotto, seasoned with a small amount of parmesan, provided the base of the dish, whilst maple gel enlivened without overwhelming in its sweetness. Crisp wild leeks, dressed with chive oil, completed this accomplished dish.  (Wine: Classic rose 2011, Chateau Massaya, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)

Another main course of Cumbrian beef demonstrated the excellence of classical meat cookery.  A tender, medium rare fillet, paired with slow cooked unctuously rich ox cheek, was garnished with creamy potato puree spiked with horseradish and sweet confit shallots. These elements were bought together by a dark, well reduced red wine sauce.  (Wine: Chianti Classico 2008, Isole e Olena, Tuscany, Italy)

A breast of Goosnargh duckling – the most flavoursome of all breeds – was roasted to a pleasing medium with crisp skin. Thankfully it was not sliced. (Why many chefs insist on slicing duck breast, as if diners are incapable of doing it themselves, remains a mystery, especially as juices are lost and the dish gets cold more quickly.) Having said this, steak knives would have been appreciated, not because the duck was tough, but rather than the knife should glide through the thick breast as it would through butter. Golden beetroot, honeyed baby onions and fragrant garlic flowers were simple yet effective garnishes.  (Wine: Domaine de Mortier 2009, Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France.)

Rack of spring Cumbrian lamb was slow roasted and rightly served with its full compliment of fat. This rich, sweet meat, served medium rare to maximise its flavour, was appropriately garnished with wild garlic leaves and flowers, braised piquant Jerusalem artichokes – an unusual yet satisfying garnish – and a light jus.  (Wine: Sierra Cantabria 2007, San Vincente de la Sonsierra, Rioja, Spain)

Dinners at Gilpin Lodge always feature pre-desserts. The raspberry and orange flavoured granites, with their foam/ cream toppings, sampled on successive evenings, served their purpose in being palate cleansing and refreshing,

Desserts often allow for greater invention and creativity, this being no less true at Gilpin Lodge.

The most outstanding option saw strawberries treated three ways: macerated, jellied and powered. These were partnered with a red pepper sorbet of superb texture and flavour, and an intense basil jus. Shards of meringue added a crisp lightness. The overall balance of sweet and savoury flavours, soft and crisp textures, and light and dark colours made this dessert a tour de force of invention.  Served on dark slate, it was also visually stunning. (Wine: Boizel Brut rose NV, Evelyne Roques-Boizel, Epernay, Champagne, France)

Another accomplished dessert was moist cherry cake, sauced with an intense cherry gel. It came with a tangy yogurt sorbet, powdered pistachio and buttermilk. (Wine: Elysium Black Muscat 2010, Andrew Quady, Madera, California, USA)

White chocolate and mascarpone had a light cheesecake texture. Garnished with pineapple poached in syrup flavoured with fennel and anise, and topped with a sugar ribbon, this was another indulgent dessert. (Wine: Domaine Rotier 2008, Renaissance, Gaillac, France)

Another innovative dessert featured a rich and well textured quennel of spiced palm sugar mousse set on a slice of gingerbread and garnished with fresh lychees and fragrant star anise powder. The dish may have benefitted from the absence of a grapefruit foam, which merely distracted from the other elements.  (Chateau La Veriere 2007, Coteaux du Layon, Loire Valley, France)

Strong coffee and well made petit fours – macaroons sand chocolate truffles – provided good endings to memorable meals. These were made more enjoyable by the excellent service which was friendly, solicitous and well informed.  Sommelier Ziggy Grinsbergs expertly selected wines to match each dish. It took over six tasting sessions, liaising with the chef, to finalise the flight of often lesser known bins.

Clearly, Phil Cubin is a rising star in the ultra competitive world of Lake District dining. He admits he aims to have firmly established himself at Gilpin Lodge over the next five years having further developed his own distinct style. From the evidence gained so far, he has impressed with his first spring menu and is well on the way to establishing is own reputation. We will watch his career with interest.

In 1973, when John Betjamin made his documentary about Metroland, the semi rural commuter belt to the north west of the capital, fine dining in the UK was in its infancy. Amersham, with its attractive old town and modern housing and shopping developments, typified the economic and social attractions and slower pace of life that many found appealing.  Like many other towns in the area, however, it lacked a restaurant of true distinction. Those in search of a gastronomic experience would still travel to London. Now, almost 40 years later, the Metropolitan line and the improved road network are helping to bring Londoners and those from further afield to dine at a restaurant that can easily compete with many in the capital.

Chef patron Laurie Gear modestly describes Artichoke as a “successful neighbourhood restaurant”, but this is to underrate his own achievement. Whilst it does retain a strong local following built up since it opened in 2002, Artichoke’s reputation has been nationally recognised with a host of awards, the most recent being placed 37th in the Top 50 UK Restaurants Good Food Guide 2012. A year earlier, the same guide crowned it the Best New Entry whilst the Michelin Guide named it a Rising Star.

To describe Artichoke as a phoenix risen from the ashes would be appropriate both in terms of its reopening and rejuvenated cuisine. The fire of 2008, which almost destroyed the interior and six years’ of hard work, led to an 18 month closure. With its reopening in 2009 and subsequent expansion into the fish restaurant where the fire started, Artichoke has doubled its covers to 45, with an additional 15/16 in the private dining room.

The décor and furnishings successfully harmonise the original features of the 16^th century building – sash windows, fireplace, oak beams and low ceilings – with stylish modern additions such as exposed painted brickwork and clever spotlighting. Particularly impressive is the glass partition through which diners can view the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Polished dark wood tables are well spaced in the three seating areas – kitchen, garden (in the original room) and private dining (upstairs). Leather upholstered chairs and banquettes provide sophisticated, relaxed seating.

The fire of 2008 might also be seen as a blessing in disguise by allowing – forgive the pun -Laurie’s cooking to move up a gear. Although he developed his classical skills in the kitchens of variety of establishments including a fish restaurant, a top end country house hotel and a gastropub, Laurie’s epiphany came with his experience during the closure at the celebrated Danish restaurant, Noma. Its emphasis on freshness, locality, seasonality and sustainability, with the use of foraged ingredients and employing the latest modern techniques, injected new life into the food served at Artichoke. Not that Laurie’s modern European cuisine has lost its own identity, rather the influences are employed in moderation and in suitable collaboration with a classical repertoire. Molecular techniques are noticeable by their relative absence.

Precise technical skills, consistently applied and combined with imaginative but not outlandish creativity have produced elegantly presented dishes which maximise flavour and balance tastes and textures. The main ingredient takes centre stage, so plates are pleasingly free from extraneous garnishes, each accompaniment contributing harmoniously to the composite whole.

An ambitious menu structure offers both a la carte and tasting options for lunch and dinner. At lunch the three course set menu at £25 is justifiably popular whilst the five course lunch tasting menu for £35 (with a flight of wines for £18) must surely rank as an outstanding bargain in any top end restaurant.

Fine Dining Guide visited Artichoke on a Tuesday evening in May and found plenty to admire in the dishes sampled.

Much can be ascertained about a restaurant by the quality of its bread and the two offered here were not found wanting.  A sourdough made with Mackeson stout had a crisp crust and firm textured crumb. Equally appealing was the bacon brioche which was rich, buttery and crumbly.

An amuse bouche featured a shot of warm beetroot soup gently acidulated with apple juice and spiked by a cold horseradish cream. This served its purpose of stimulating the taste buds well.

A signature starter saw beautifully fresh white crab meat from Lyme Bay encased in a delicate tube of passion fruit jelly, a marriage that worked particularly well.  Avocado cream and shellfish mayonnaise added richer elements, whilst the whole dish was lifted by a quennel of cucumber sorbet, and slices of frozen cucumber, which had cleansing, crisp qualities. This was an inspired starter, with its carefully judged combination of tastes, textures and – with the addition of edible violet flowers – colours. The crisp white wine, with its apple aroma and hint of spice, set off this dish well. (Wine: Pinot Gris, Château Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2008)

A ballotine of marinated and poached foie gras was satisfyingly dense and melting.  It was offset by a lively grapefruit curd and a chicory marmalade, the gentle bitterness of which balanced the rich creaminess of the liver. A tuile of pain d’espices added a crisp texture which finished this luxurious starter perfectly. The lively sweet white wine, with its citrus and tropical aromas, was a well judged accompaniment. (Wine: Jurançon, Château Jolys, Cuvée Jean, 2009)

Next came dishes which reflected the distinct yet restrained influence of  Noma. – Red wine braised English snails were soft, succulent and highly flavoured. These were set on a savoury “bed” of warm Valencia wet rice, and rye bread crumbs garnished with enoki mushrooms emerging from the “soil.”  Wild garlic leaves added to the “earthiness” – in both senses of the word – of the dish. In flavour, texture and visual appearance, this was a stunningly original dish.

Equally accomplished was an assiette of carrots: steamed baby Heritage carrots which were delicately tender and sweet; carrot tops cooked al dente; and a carrot puree of contrasting smoothness. Balancing these in taste and texture and adding a heady fragrance were truffled goat’s curd – a current favourite amongst leading chefs – black truffle shavings and a Wee Three Pigs Farm fennel salami salad. This was another well conceived, brilliantly executed dish.

The two main courses sampled were slightly less innovative but showed equal skill in their combination of ingredients, execution and presentation.

Breast of free range Chiltern duck, cooked pink in the classic French manner, maximised the flavour of the bird. A boudin blanc of the confit leg was well made. The garnishes of this dish were particularly memorable: wafer thin, crisp pomme maxime; an ethereally light foie gras yogurt; earthy morels; a rich jus and an intensely fresh puree of peas, given added texture with whole young peas and pea pods. The red wine, with fresh red fruit aromas and elegant feel matched this dish well. (Wine: Cairanne, Domaine Richaud, 2010)

A “surf and turf” main course featured deliciously succulent and melting slow braised pork belly with its separate puffed skin, deep fried. It worked well with the tangy poached pineapple and puree and baby bulbs of fennel garnish, which added a gentle aniseed touch. Scottish langoustine gave a lively freshness, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a well flavoured jus and a scattering of pollen. The red wine, with blackcurrant, liquorice and spice notes suited this dish well. (Wine: Carménère Equus, Haras de Pirque, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2009)

The strengths of the pastry section, located upstairs in its own kitchen, were amply demonstrated in the two desserts sampled

A rich ganache of piped Michel Cluizel white chocolate was cut by a sharp jelly of Amalfi lemon and olive oil. Lemon Thyme sherbert gave a refreshing herby fragrance whilst shards of Amaretti biscuits added a contrastingly crisp texture to this composite dessert.

The second dessert was a veritable masterclass in the art of puff pastry. Marie de bois strawberries and creme patisierre were sandwiched between thin layers of crisp pastry perched on a delectable caramelised white chocolate cream. The accompanying strawberry sorbet was of perfect texture and flavour. Visually stunning, this dessert tasted as good as it looked.

Well made petits fours -tarragon marsh mallow, truffle, cherry and fudge – and good coffee completed this memorable meal.

Service, overseen by Jacqueline Gear, Restaurant Director, was welcoming, knowledgeable and solicitous. Ludo, the Maitre d’, used his considerable expertise in selecting the flight of wines.

Overall, Laurie and Jacqueline Gear have created a restaurant of which they can be justifiably proud, one that operates like a well oiled machine, but with personality and character. Their hard work in overcoming adversity commands our full admiration.  Moreover, they have earned the respect of their fellow chefs such as Raymond Blanc, who actively recommends Artichoke, Prue Leith and Alyn Williams who have made, or will be making guest appearances. Perhaps most importantly for its future development, Artichoke now needs to the Michelin starred recognition it so richly deserves. We await the 2013 guide in eager anticipation.