Head chef Philip Yeoman’s early career spanned the kitchens of The Dorchester, Harvey Nichols and Soho House before crossing the Atlantic to gain experience in the USA and Bermuda. Seven years at Lainston have seen his cooking acquire a distinct identity under the auspices of Executive Chef Andrew Mackenzie, who encourages maximum freedom of creativity. More recently, the two Michelin starred John Campbell has been has been acting as a consultant. This, combined with the inherent abilities of Phil, have led to a blossoming of The Avenue’s cuisine, which has been awarded three AA rosettes.

Leading a team of 15, Phil caters for a maximum of 60 covers in the restaurant, together with a host of special functions – the hotel is very popular for weddings and conferences. As a leading member of Hampshire Food Fair and Farmers’ Market – the largest in England – Phil is passionate about the sourcing of high quality regional produce, the suppliers of which are credited on the menu; hence scallops come from Portland Shellfish, lamb from the Hinwood flock, Broughton and pork from Lainston’s own pigs. The four acre kitchen garden, developed over the last two years and inspired by Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, provides 90% of his herbs and root vegetables, alongside a range of other vegetables and fruit.

Phil’s style, modestly described as “English cooking with a modern twist”, is based on classical roots, with the employment of modern techniques. Using water baths to maintain consistency of cooking is clearly in evidence, as is a degree of molecular wizardry in the production of foams, gels and spherification. However, they are not used to excess and are integral parts of the dish, adding flavour and texture.

The menu is adventurous, showing an assured understanding of taste and texture. Unusual but compatible combinations are seen in a starter of scallops with smoked eel, and mains of veal rump with goat’s curd and lemon, or halibut with oxtail, parsnip and walnut. Meat can involve two cuts cooked differently, best seen in the top selling roast loin of lamb with braised shoulder or pork fillet with braised pig’s cheek.  Desserts such as white chocolate, hob nob biscuit, toffee popcorn and mandarin sorbet can be playful and innovative.

Although some dishes appear relatively simple, this is not to underestimate the complexity and labour intensity of their production. Flavours are pure, with main ingredients allowed to speak for themselves. Textures and temperatures are well judged whilst the final presentation is clean and delicate.

The structure of the seasonally changing menu features five choices in each course, with cheese instead of dessert or as an additional course. Breads are baked on the premises. The ones sampled, onion brioche, baguette and country bread were all exemplary in their crisp crust and firm crumb.

The seven course tasting menu (with a vegetarian alternative) does not duplicate any of the dishes on the carte, showing the versatility and range of Phil’s cooking.

An amuse-bouche featured beetroot jelly, with goat and lemon curd. This combination of strong flavours was brilliantly conceived, the sweetness of the beetroot and richness of the goat’s curd being cut by the citrus. Candied hazelnuts added crunch to balance the other  smoother textures.

A terrine of loin and confit shoulder and leg of wild rabbit had a depth of flavour not usually found in bland inferior versions. Layered with cabbage and shitake mushrooms, it was moist and well-seasoned. Blackberry and pear puree with turnip shavings gave an element of sweetness and crispness. (Wine: Nyetimber Classic cuvee, Sussex)

Beautifully fresh seared scallops were perfectly timed to produce and caramelised crust and soft sweet flesh. An intense bisque, reduced almost to a demi-glace, complemented the seafood well, as did the silky smooth cauliflower puree and a “dressing” of sliced razor clams, which added a firmer texture. A molecular “snow” of beurre noisette powder gave an exciting temperature contrast to this warm dish. (Wine: FMC, Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester; Stellenbosch, 2008)

The next dish was a tour de force of vegetarian cookery. Jerusalem artichoke cooked to an al dente texture, and also in puree form, worked well with muted saltiness of parmesan crisps. Roasted black garlic perfumed the whole of this beautifully balanced composition which was finished by a scattering of chestnut shavings.

Beef blade benefitted from long slow cooking in a water bath before being finished in the pan. Apple batons added an element of freshness although the horseradish meringues needed more bite to offset their sweetness. Cep puree added deep earthy notes and the red onion marmalade and rich jus brought the dish together. (Wine: Exclusive hotels edition, Rioja, 2005)

A pre dessert of apple compote, vanilla espuma and crumble was well executed, each component adding a distinct flavour and texture. The star however was a quenelle of kalamansi sorbet which added an intense citrus note.

Finally a highly skilled and ambitious dessert featured quenelles of dark chocolate mousse, spheres of liquorice mousse, and lemon mousse encased in a dark chocolate cigarette. The richness of these decadent elements was offset by a lemon sphere, which oozed an intensely sharp liquid centre when cut. Almonds gave a much needed crunch to offset the overall smoothness of the other elements. (Wine: Elysium, black muscat, Andrew Quady, Central Valley, California 2010)

Strong coffee and excellent petit fours – passion fruit jelly, truffle, Florentine, chocolate crisp and fudge completed this distinguished meal.

All this was enhanced by knowledgeable, unobtrusive service and wines – from an award winning list – chosen by head sommelier| Peter Foulds.  His infectious enthusiasm – in particular for Nyetimber wines – and comprehensive knowledge are a testament to his passion and dedication to his craft.

Clearly the quality of the cooking at Lainston House hotel deserves a higher national profile than it has received so far. Certainly, the tasting menu I enjoyed was on a level equal with those eaten at other  Michelin starred restaurants. Indeed, Phil Yeomans has created a cuisine of which he can be justifiably proud and Fine Dining Guide will watch his career with interest.

What do you look for in a good neighbourhood restaurant? A high standard of cuisine consistently maintained; a strong following of regulars attracted by value for money prices; a warm welcome with friendly, efficient service; and pleasant surroundings in which to enjoy a relaxed meal out.

Charlotte’s Place in Ealing has all these qualities in abundance. But this is no ordinary neighbourhood restaurant. Winner of the 2013 Good Food Guide’s London Readers’ Restaurant of the Year Award, and currently holding two AA rosettes it is developing a higher profile in the capital as a whole.  Opened in 1984 and still bearing the name of the original owner, it was refurbished, rebranded and reopened under new ownership in 2005. Since then its reputation for being THE PLACE – forgive the pun – to eat locally has been regained.

Its appeal lies partly in a sheer lack of pretention. Located in a quiet street overlooking a corner of Ealing Common, it shares its home in a 150 year old house with an adjacent pub, The Grange, and is barely noticeable from the residential properties nearby. Ringing the doorbell in the side entrance gives an intimate, domestic feel which is emphasised by the simple décor of the ground floor dining room. Floral prints, large mirrors, wall lighting, wooden floor and plain, candle lit tables make the room cosy, compact and comfortable.

With a maximum of 54 covers, over half of which are in the basement dining room, the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner all week, a remarkable feat given the kitchen is smaller than those in modern homes, and is only able to accommodate four of the six chefs at any one time.

Chef Greg Martin leads the brigade offering what the restaurant describes as “traditional and European food.” Certainly, the presence of roast beef at Sunday lunch would confirm this. However, the set menu of six starters, mains and desserts shows a pleasing degree of ambition in its use of first rate, well sourced, seasonal ingredients. Consider for instance Heirloom Beetroot with goat’s curd cigar or crisp pig’s cheek, pork and fennel sausage roll , pork terrine and sauce Gribiche as interesting starters; or Home cured Saddleback pork loin, Chorizo , tomato and white bean stew as a main.

Whilst dishes are mercifully devoid of foams, purees and gels, the cooking is thoughtful and precise, with modern interpretations and combinations. A few dishes executed well in each course seems to be the key focus.

Pricing is also well judged: three courses at £29.95 for dinner, £19.95 for lunch (£5 extra at weekends) with reductions for two courses constitute real bargains. Even more so is the early evening offer of three courses and an aperitif for £26.95. Supplements – so often encountered in many restaurants – are noticeable by their absence.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening in March and was delighted with the dishes sampled.

Cornish mackerel tart featured slices of the raw fish, anchovy fillets, diced peppers parmesan shavings and balsamic dressing on a crisp puff pastry base smeared with tapenade. These strong flavours and contrasting textures were perfectly balanced, allowing the beautiful freshness of the oily fish to take pride of place.

A raviolo of delicately smooth pasta was generously filled with Cornish crab. The sweetness of the well-seasoned white meat worked well with the braised leeks and a chive butter sauce, making this a rich, unctuous dish.

A main course saw meltingly tender shredded braised oxtail topped with a tranche of roasted cod accurately timed to produce succulent flakes of translucent flesh. Added richness and sweetness was given by caramelised onion to contrast with the artichoke puree, cabbage and brown butter sauce. Crisp potato waffles crowned this robust tour de force of a surf and turf dish.

Equally accomplished was the more classical ballotine of chicken. Gently poached then wrapped in smoked bacon and finished in the pan, it was well seasoned and moist. Simple garnishes of buttered potatoes and steamed purple sprouting broccoli allowed the main element to shine, whilst a rich sauce spiked with tarragon lifted the whole dish.

Nor did the third courses disappoint. A classical pear and almond tart featured crisp pate sucree with soft frangipane and with sweet poached pear. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was velvety smooth whilst the butterscotch sauce gave a not too sweet a finish.

A selection of fine cheeses from La Fromagerie were in peak condition. Quince paste and oat cakes added to their enjoyment.

Overall, this was a most impressive meal, enhanced by well informed, engaging service and well- chosen wines from the extensive wine list. Given the skill shown in the cooking, the range of dishes offered and the competitive prices, it is no surprise that Charlotte’s Place is open all week, with 90% of diners booking to guarantee their places. Success has also led to expansion, with the opening of daughter restaurant Charlotte’s Bistro in Chiswick in July 2010. This has already gained Michelin Bib Goumands in 2011 and 2012. Fine Dining Guide will watch the progress of both restaurants with interest.