The Beautiful Setting of Inn the Park in St James’ Park London.

The British penchant for al fresco dining is deeply ingrained and understandable given the limited days of fine weather in the summer months. Even those –usually men –who spend hardly any time in the kitchen think they can cook when faced with an outdoor charcoal grill and raw meat.

However, the supposed joys of barbecues on the patio, picnics in the park and terrace dining in restaurants and are plagued by the inconsistencies of cooking, insect attack  and the unpredictability of the weather. For those who prefer to avoid these pitfalls yet enjoy the fresh air and outdoor beauty, and not just in the summer, Inn the Park, has filled a much needed gap. Ground breaking in being the first British park restaurant to open all year round, with all day eating, its idyllic location by the lake in St James’s Park gives it an unrivalled position in the heart of the capital.

Part of the Peyton and Byrne group, Inn the Park is far removed from the stereotypical shack-like park cafés with their outside foldaway tables and chairs and collapsible parasols. A permanent single storey pavilion designed by Hopkins architects, it is cleverly set into a gently rising hillock, so benefitting thermally from being embedded in the ground. A grass covered roof offers excellent views of the lake from the upper terrace bar. Although beautiful all year round and at most times of the day, sunset on a warm evening in the height of summer in St James Park holds a particular magic.

The exterior looks neither like a “Swiss chalet” nor a “park folly” as two commentators have described it. In a natural grey palette which harmonises well with the natural surroundings, it features a glass wall of sliding panels and a wide veranda which is heated in winter and offers shade in summer. The honey coloured timber interior, designed by Tom Dixon, provides space for a 100 seat restaurant, with bespoke furniture and fittings of rugged, natural and sustainable materials. A recent refurbishment to celebrate its tenth anniversary has seen new bar on the main terrace, larchwood flooring, lighting and furnishings. Wide tubular steel and leather chairs provide comfortable seating around well-spaced tables. Therefore the attractive surroundings are not confined just to the outside the restaurant.

Given its prime location and  popularity with tourists, local residents, and public servants – it is a stone’ s throw from many Whitehall departments – Inn the Park serves  breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner whilst also offering a “Grab and Go” self-service section for sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries. Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in July to sample the dinner menu.

In line with the overall philosophy of organic sustainability, Head chef Colin Kelly’s seasonally changing menu focuses largely on British produce sourced from local specialist suppliers, often artisan producers and rare breed farmers. The carte comprises six each of starters (£3.50 – £11), mains (£13-  £24) and desserts, including cheese, (£2.90 – £8.50), helps to ensure consistency of cooking whilst offering a reasonable choice of meat, fish and vegetarian options at a competitive price point for central London

Although not intended to be fine dining, dishes are imaginative, generously portioned, accurately timed, well-seasoned and attractively presented. Ingredients are mainly British, but cooking can adopt European influences as seen in seabass tartar, beef carpaccio, and a stew of squid and hake with chorizo.

Diners might want to indulge in a pre prandial cocktail –  Sage Bison, Plum and Elderflower Julep or Thyme Colin –  or choose from a selection of craft beers. The wine list includes 16 by the glass (starting from £4.75), including several rosés and sparkling wines.

A salad starter of utterly fresh Devon crab saw the deliciously sweet white meat dressed with a light mayonnaise. Ripe, creamy chunks of avocado were mixed with the Romaine leaves and broad beans and given added interest by a scattering of crisp gingerbread crumbs. Delicious in itself, the dish might have benefitted from more crumbs, a citrus lift and a little of the brown crab meat for extra flavour. (Why is the brown meat so generally underused?)

Another starter of Carpaccio of beef had been lightly smoked, dressed in oil and served with deep fried capers and a celeriac remoulade. This was a happy marriage of balanced flavours and textures, the mustardy qualities of the remoulade complementing the thin slices of beef particularly well.

It was pleasing, given the restaurant’s sourcing policy, to see Cornish Megrim sole, far more sustainable than its more fashionable and expensive Dover and Lemon sole cousins, offered as a main course. Whilst not as delicate and refined in texture, Megrim sole still has a pleasant flatfish quality.  Served on the bone to retain its succulence, a whipped shrimp butter added richness and crustacean flavour.

Sides of seasonal buttered fresh peas, green beans and shallots and Cornish new potatoes went well with this dish.

Rib eye steak, cooked medium rare as requested on the new state of the art BBQ, was full of bovine flavour produced by its good marbling. Richness was added by smoked bone marrow and onion puree and a reduction of the juices brought the elements together. Chunky hand cut chips, crisp on the outside with a fluffy interior, proved the perfect accompaniment.

Desserts are of the decadent variety, ranging from sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream to Eton Mess. An ITP sundae, with layers of ice cream, fruit and whipped cream, fortunately not of Knickerbocker Glory proportions, was sampled, satisfying the sugar hit that was craved. Simple hand-made ice cream of velvety texture, provided a simpler alternative.

Service at Inn the Park is young, welcoming and eager to please, being overseen by restaurant manager Ross Davis. The ambience is relaxed and informal, in line with the wishes of the majority of those who eat out nowadays.

Overall, it is not difficult to see why Inn the Park has been successful over the past decade, combining the pleasures of al fresco eating with the security of comfort and good food if the weather deteriorates. Given its recent makeover and enticing menus, it is likely to go from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide will be sure to visit again, perhaps for lunch or afternoon tea or for Ribs on the Roof,’ a summer promotion daily from 5pm , offering a half-rack of ribs with spicy coleslaw and a Saxon beer for £10.

The current vogue in opening large restaurants in London has added to the embarrassment of choice in dining out. Whether in overstated glamourous rooms in revamped West End hotels and banks , or converted East End warehouses with industrial chic design, these new establishments often come with unwelcome disadvantages for prospective diners: difficulties in acquiring tables, unless they are celebrities; labyrinthine booking systems or a no booking policy; vast, overpriced menus about which waiting staff are inadequately briefed; service that is so perfunctory guests feel tolerated rather than respected and welcome; noise levels more appropriate to wine bars and pubs; and, worst of all, inconsistency in cooking, with a feeling of mass catering. The average life of such fashionable restaurants is likely to be short.

This is where the adage about “small is beautiful” really does have relevance, especially to established restaurants like Latium, a high end Italian in Fitzrovia.  Located near the northern end of Berners Street – which itself has recently seen a large scale opening with a celebrity chef – Latium exemplifies all the benefits of a more modest operation. With a maximum of just 55 covers, guests feel personally welcome and benefit from efficient, knowledgeable service that is formal yet relaxed and friendly. It is overseen by the most accommodating restaurant manager Alex Trumcim and his charming deputy Rosanna, who is also the sommelier. The attractive menu is wide ranging and inventive but not so ambitious as to invite problems of delivery. It allows the highly skilled cooking to shine through, showing a consistency that has encouraged the mixed clientele of locals and those from further afield to return; indeed, Latium is now in its eleventh year of opening, a testament to its success.

Latium does not blow its own trumpet but has an understated ethos and serenity which add to its appeal. Guests can easily walk by its office like frontage without realising it is a restaurant. Inside, the stone tiled floor, white walls with large abstract food photographs, and well directed spotlighting make for a stylish, contemporary design. Tables dressed in fine napery, well controlled air conditioning and good acoustics which minimise noise levels, contribute to guest comfort. Diners near the far end can also view action in the kitchen through a large window.

Chatting with the warm and amiable Maurizio Morelli, chef patron (with Claudio Pulze), we were impressed by the passion and dedication he has lavished on his craft. His love of game cookery, and pride in his celebrated fish ravioli were clearly evident. Latium’s award from Restaurant Magazine’s UK Best Dishes – Pasta category – confirmed Maurizio’s excellence in this aspect of his repertoire. His distinguished CV includes spells at the Lanesborough and Halkin hotels before becoming head chef at “ibla Restaurant” in Marylebone, which gained a Bib Gourmand. Further experience continued with cooking at the Green Olive and acting as a consultant for the Red Pepper Group. Having cooked at Latium for eleven years, there is a sense of real enjoyment and contentment.

Maurizo’s cooking combines elements of traditional regional Italian cuisine – especially of his home region of Lazio – with innovative touches which enhance rather than overwhelm the clarity of flavour and beauty of presentation.  Seasonal ingredients, many sourced from Italy, are used to maximum effect. The timing of dishes is accurate, dishes are carefully seasoned and saucing shows a deft touch.

The main menu is well judged in terms of range and pricing. For instance, six anti pasti, five primi piatti (pasta / risotto), four secondi fish, and four secondi meat, is wide enough to promote choice, and not too excessive for a kitchen brigade of eight. A separate ravioli menu of five starters and five mains highlights Maurizo’s speciality for which he has gained national recognition.

Two courses at £29.50 or three for £35.50 constitute  a relative bargain by West End standards. There is also a well-priced, weekly changing set lunch menu at £16.50 for two courses (or £22.50 for three), which is also available for early evening

Fine Dining Guide visited on a midweek evening in June, finding much to appreciate in the food, wine and service

A generous set of nibbles arrived in the form of olives, buratta, salami, and light, fragrant olive oil. These were accompanied a basket of crisp breads, white rolls, olive bread and focaccia, baked on the premises. All were well rendered, the moist and well flavoured focaccia in particular having a good balance of salt and olive oil

The rest of the meal was left to the chef’s discretion, as we wanted to sample some signature dishes. These were paired with a fight of wines chosen from the  predominantly Italian list which was interesting and moderately priced.

A highly inventive anti pasta dish featured a velvety smooth cold potato cream given a salty richness with ricotta, partnered by soft boiled quail’s eggs and a crisp tuile of mushroom risotto. These elements of differing tastes, temperatures and textures worked well together, being given a fragrant lift with the addition of summer black truffle. (Wine: Pinot Bianco doc La Prendina 2013 Lombardia,)

A second anti pasta dish saw a supremely fresh, succulent and precisely seasoned disc of tuna tartare topped with delicate salmon caviar and a rich mascarpone cream. This was balanced in texture and flavour with young, tender broad beans and fragrant pea shoots in a subtle dressing. (Wine: Frascati Superiore, Casale Marchese 2012 Lazio)

Next came the piece de resistance: a selection of delicate fish ravioli – black, green, yellow and red. These comprised squid ink pasta filled with monkfish; spinach with brill and carrot; saffron with salmon and chives; and tomato with tuna and red pepper. Eaten in a specified order, the distinct flavours of each were clearly identifiable, the soft, melting pasta encasing generous amount of filling. The squid with monkfish and saffron with salmon were especially delicious. A light sauce and a dusting of sea bass bottarga – another inventive touch compared with the usual grey mullet or tuna preparations – brought the four appetising parcels of pasta together. Visually stunning, this labour intensive dish was a tour de force of imagination and creativity.  (Wine: Terlaner Classico, Cantina Terlano 2013 Alto Adige) 

Equally accomplished was the ravioli of oxtail: delicate pasta shrouding rich meat dressed in a light jus flavoured with celery.

A dish of eight hour roasted belly pork saw this highly fashionable cut cooked to perfection: the glazed soft skinned portion was succulent and meltingly tender, with the fat being well rendered. The richness of the meat was balanced by borlotti beans, both whole and in a puree, wilted spinach and roasted baby leeks, which also gave sweetness and textural contrast. A flavoursome sauce and grated salted ricotta – another unusual touch which lifted the dish – finished this generous, highly satisfying main course. (Wine: Adeo Bolgheri Rosso, Campo alla Sughera 2010 Toscana)

Finally, a highly creative dessert added a fun element to the menu. Piped mounds of rich but not overly sweet white chocolate mousse were interspersed with strawberry puree and mint coulis, giving the colours of the Italian flag.

Caramelised popcorn provided a balancing light crispness, whilst a dusting of liquorice power added a hint of aniseed flavour. (Wine: Visciolata del Cardinale, Cabernet Sauvignon with wild cherries)

Good expresso with excellent homemade truffles and biscotti completed a memorable meal, enhanced by the seamless, unobtrusive service.

Overall, it is clear why Latium has survived the rigours of a highly competitive and ruthless restaurant world. The virtues of finely tuned, deferential service, which might seem old fashioned but still has its place, are undeniable.  Equally important is the consistently high quality of the food, which reflects a cooking style which is adaptable but retains the integrity of its Italian roots. The price point also reflects outstanding value for money. Fine Dining Guide will return to this gem of a restaurant to sample other delights such as the tempting fish main courses and the sweet ravioli, confident in the knowledge it will be there for many years to come.

Despite the popularity of Mexican food in the UK, it has spawned few restaurants seeking to cater for a fine dining clientele. Peyote, restaurant and bar, located on Cork Street just north of Burlington Arcade, is one rare example. Launched in November 2013, proprietor Tarun Mahrotri has partnered with Eduardo Garcia, (previously of Maximo Bistro, Mexico City), on menu composition, and worked with Head Chef Hili Sharabani, (who has worked at Buddha Bar Knightsbridge and Nobu Park Lane), to produce an innovative menu that mixes tradition with contemporary influences.

Fine Dining Guide visited Peyote on a Thursday evening in May. The gravitational pull of the sizeable crowd spilling onto the street, soon had us headed in the right direction. Inside we found the lighting set to low, as the music to high, appropriate to what seemed to be a bar come dining area in which we were seated. A DJ Booth occupying one corner sealed the impression that Peyote seeks to serve a broad church, from relaxed diners to hardened tequila aficionados.

We were later to discover that the basement level of the restaurant, which includes the Chef’s table and Taco Bar, lends itself as a very different option for dining. Brighter, more spacious, and away from the hustle and (sometimes) overbearing music of the bar, the tables are afforded a great view into the open kitchen, and enjoy a more serene environment.

The menu is extensive. A number of elements demonstrated a pan-Latin influence, for example a selection of Ceviches. Others were faithful classics such as Tostadas, Tacos and Quesadillas. All of the dishes seemed to promise the sort of fresh, vibrant flavours we were hoping for.

Given the Mexican obsession with Tequila, a definite highlight is the cocktail menu; which boasts a range of expertly blended tipples. The staple, the Margarita (of course), is a perfect harmony of sweet, saltiness and acidity – but for the more adventurous there is plenty else to choose from. There is also a carefully curated range of tequilas, although one can’t help but feel these are wasted on the uninitiated such as us.

Our first foray exploring the menu took in a smooth and velvety Guacamole, bursting with pungent undertones of garlic and chilli. This was accompanied by a quintuple of salsas, ordered by Scoville scale according to the level of heat.  Thankfully, even the hottest of the lot, the habanero, was perfectly palatable.

Other dishes we had to start included the Yellow Tail Laminados (think Sashimi, but with creamy avocado puree in place of the wasabi), the wonderfully unadulterated Tuna Tostados, and the star of the show, the Prawn Ceviche. The Ceviche was a joy, boasting prawns that were fat and succulent from soaking up the flavours of lime, chilli and coriander. Every mouthful managed to be both full of flavour and a palate cleanser all in one.

From the fresh clean flavours of the first set of dishes, we moved on to sample some of the signature Tacos. These were surprising restrained in terms of heat; however this allowed the subtlety of flavours to really stand out. The Pork Pibil – a speciality of Yucatán State – was meltingly soft, with a beautifully piquant sauce, and if cooked in the traditional way, both coloured and flavoured by the addition of annatto seeds. The fish taco demonstrated further delicateness of flavour and careful handling of ingredients, being cooked to perfection, with slightly caramelised outer edges and a soft, mouth-watering middle.

For the main course we sampled both the Rib Eye and Chilean Sea Bass. The meat was expertly cooked, being enhanced by a sweetness derived from careful charring and the selection of a well-marbled cut.  The accompanying borracha (chilli) salsa, augmented with tequila, was yet another example of careful flavour control and a tendency by the kitchen to let the delicate flavours of the ingredients stand out. The fish was similarly well delivered, cooked to be soft and translucent; this was accompanied by a deliciously tangy pineapple and coriander sauce.

The freshness and simplicity of flavours on the menu makes saving room for dessert somehow seem easy. Of course, one of the delights of Mexico is the abundant Churros. These are soft doughnut like sticks that are perfectly shaped for dunking in chocolate, cinnamon or sugar. Peyote does this Mexican street food full justice, conjuring up soft, light strips of dough, encased in a moreish, crisp shell. The smell alone is worthy of being bottled to make scented candles. The chocolate sauce that accompanies the churros is warm and gooey and perfectly geared up for dunking. The only problem is that one serving is never likely to be sufficient! We also sampled Hibiscus cheesecake. This was a traditional vanilla cheesecake, but was given a transformational lift by the addition of sweet and aromatic hibiscus granite – although perhaps not an authentic Mexican recipe, this certainly seemed a harmonious addition to the menu.

Although much of the offering at Peyote will be familiar to those who have enjoyed Mexican food in a more casual setting, the restaurant does offer a more sophisticated twist, which is particularly exemplified by the subtlety and delicate flavouring of the cooking. Less than one year old, Peyote has already attracted a well-heeled clientele, and not just from the bright young things of Mayfair. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.