2011 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the Raymond Blanc’s opening of the original Maison Blanc in Oxford. I remember how it attracted national attention with its live-in artisan baker and early morning queues of people eager to buy its freshly baked authentic breads, savouries and patisserie. Then, it was one of the few places outside London where produce of such quality could be found. Its small café, at the end of the long narrow room, was always crowded, with patient customers waiting for a spare table.

Whilst the refurbished Woodstock Road branch still thrives, the intervening years have seen the successful growth of the Maison Blanc group, with 14 branches in south east England. Its central concept of a boulangerie, patisserie and chocolatier, combined with all day casual eating, has proved highly popular with its discerning patrons. Whereas originally the shop was the central part of the business, now the café, with a more extensive menu, is at least equally important. The scale of the operation has increased significantly, with its own bakery in London supplying all its branches.

The most recent one to open, in July 2009, is in Henley -on -Thames. This historic, picturesque town, famed for its annual regatta, is packed with hotels, restaurants, tea rooms, cafes, coffee houses and pubs. Competition is fierce for the custom of local residents, workers, students and tourists.

Located at 1-3 Duke Street, at the major crossroads on the town, it lies at the very heart of the town. Pedestrians, and motorists waiting at the traffic lights, cannot fail to be impressed by its signature italic blue logo, glass fronted walls and attractive displays. In fine weather, the possibility of al fresco eating is another attraction. Inside, a wooden dresser acts as a room divider between counter and café. The dark wooden shelving gives a traditional feel to the shop, whilst the brightly lit tea room has furniture more functional than decorative in design. A spiral staircase leads to the kitchen and extra seating.

Queues regularly form for lunch and afternoon tea, with weekend trade being the heaviest. The menu offers a variety of dishes to suit all pockets and tastes, for all parts of the day. Prices range from £2.99 for toast and marmalade to £12.95 for a sharing platter of various cheeses, hams and French saucisson.

How refreshing to see the humble porridge (with a variety of toppings), and boiled eggs with toast on the nine breakfast items, (although all these are available all day.) A more luxurious alternative is smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, which are properly runny and creamy.

Two salads are offered on the autumn/winter menu. One featured lightly smoked salmon paired with (thankfully not over- cooked) crayfish, avocado and mixed leaves. French dressing and crème fraiche with dill are well made and served separately in little pots.

Seven types of sandwich and three baguettes are listed. The warm brioche used to make the chicken club sandwich was excellent in its buttery sweetness, although the chicken was hardly noticeable amongst the other strong flavours of Comte cheese, pancetta and hard boiled egg. Nevertheless, as a composite light lunch, it was first rate.

Nine warm items “From the Oven” include the best selling spinach and goat’s cheese quiche, the generous filling of which did full justice to the rich, crisp pastry. However, a croissant of porcini mushroom and bechamel sauce failed to deliver on taste (too bland) and texture – it had become rather soggy.

More successful were the “Hot Bowls.” Deeply flavoured French onion soup was a popular choice on the day we visited. We also tried the Cassoulet, aware that there are many variations of this classic dish from southern France. The Maison Blanc version has a good balance of white beans, garlic sausage, lardons and shredded duck confit. Unashamedly rich with a gratinated top, and served with bread, is proved a highly comforting main course.

To drink, well chosen wines, two white – Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – and two red wines – Cabernet Sauvignon and Rioja – are available by the glass or half bottle. Piper Heidsieck Champagne and 1644 Kronenbourg lager are also on offer, whilst the hot beverage and cold drinks selections are extensive. It is worth pointing out that coffees and teas, just as good as the up market coffee chain opposite, are available to take away.

Afternoon tea is offered in the English version, with scone, strawberry jam and clotted cream or the Maison Blanc version with five dainty pastries: the lemon meringue pie, apricot almondine, mini chocolate eclair and raspberry millefeuille were all deliciously indulgent and well executed. However, there was an intruder – a chocolate brownie. Why this stodgy American apology for a cake was served alongside French patisserie has yet to be explained. What a shame, also, that tea bags were used. The wide variety of teas, and the whole tea room experience, would certainly be enhanced by serving leaf tea.

Five continental pastries and seventeen different patisserie are available to eat in or take out. The range of patisserie features a seasonal new creation by Raymond Blanc, a delicious a pear frangipan with crumble topping. For chocolate lovers, Concerto features sponge biscuit, chocolate mousse with a crisp centre of feuillantine and praline all encased in chocolate fondant. Although light, it is extremely rich, so a smaller size might be preferable. Eclairs, whether chocolate, coffee or vanilla featured crisp choux pastry and generous, fillings of well flavoured crème patissiere.

Tarte au citron and Plum and Date tart benefitted from outstanding pate sucree. Cheesecake came in the sophisticated form of St Michel aux fruits rouges, with fromage blanc and a mixed berry centre. Strangely enough, the mille feuille did not reach the same high standards of the other patisserie, its pate feuilletee lacking the rich crispness one might expect, whilst the crème patissiere was too thick and needed more vanilla.

Two best selling loaves were sampled. Campaillou, had a sour dough flavour with an open, irregular texture. Its rustic looking crust is crisp and not as hard as Pain Poilane. In contrast, the zepplin shaped Colombier was densely textured, moist and dark with a nutty flavour given by linseeds and sunflower seeds. Both were prime examples of well crafted, artisan breads.

Emily, the cheerful and engaging manager of the Henley branch, heads a young front of house team which copes well at busy, peak pressure times. Happy in her role, she is proud of the success of the Henley branch. That it is constantly busy is a testament to its popularity. Indeed, the winning formula of all day eating, flexible menu, reasonably priced and well cooked food, along with top notch bread and patisserie to take away, is hard to beat, as local competitors are finding to their cost. Maison Blanc has definitely impressed its mark on this prosperous Oxfordshire town.

Simon Rogan

Fine Dining Guide had the pleasure of visiting L’Enclume, the Michelin starred restaurant with rooms in the Lake District, and meeting its highly acclaimed chef patron, Simon Rogan. Having also achieved the coveted accolades of five AA rosettes, (2010), and Best Chef of the Year (Good Food Guide, 2009), his cooking is in the vanguard of cutting edge modern British cuisine.

The gastronomic journey of this pioneering chef has involved fundamental changes. His early limited experience in restaurants in Hampshire and Devon contrasts with the increasing work involved in his expanding culinary empire in Cartmel. Having swopped the bustle of town and city restaurants – with stints under Marco Pierre White and John Burton-Race – for being his own boss in a tranquil picturesque village, must have proved not only a culture shock, but a highly risky enterprise. Most importantly, Simon has retreated from classical techniques of cooking using widely sourced ingredients to a more experimental style, with produce dictated by seasonality, locality and sustainability. Indeed, L’Enclume was voted Sustainable Restaurant of the Year in 2010

Speaking with the clear vision and genuine passion of a true convert, Simon reflected on the past and enthused about the future. Encouraged by his previous sous chef Frederick Forster, (Roux Scholar in 2000), he found true inspiration in the experimental approach of Pierre Gagnaire and the use of wild herbs and flowers by Marc Veyrat. Both these elements play a large part in his culinary philosophy, along with an uncompromising adherence to top quality, organic supplies from the nearby Howbarrow farm.

It is hoped to adopt a totally bio-dynamic approach to farming by 2012, guaranteeing a continuing seasonal supply of food and obviating the need for a menu in the traditional sense.

Just as his shorter hair style reflects a certain personal moderation, so Simon admitted he has toned down his earlier – wacky – attempts at innovation, designed to make an impact on the gastronomic stage. Although foams, purees and jellies still abound in unusual combinations of tastes and textures, his primary focus now is on maximizing flavour from his raw materials, whether farmed or foraged.

Simon emphasized it did not mean he is less ambitious; rather his energies have been redirected. He enjoys using the latest kitchen technology in realising his inexhaustible fund of new ideas. These will be given further scope by his plan to employ a full time development chef (he already has a development kitchen), an enlarged main kitchen, along with a restructured restaurant. Moreover, Simon has a plan to elevate Rogan and Co, his nearby brasserie in Cartmel, into another fine dining restaurant.

Finally, and true to his philosophy, Simon is fully embracing his Cumbrian surroundings by using regional materials in the imminent change of the restaurant furniture and décor. In particular, Cumbrian oak tables, with surfaces to resemble smooth coastal pebbles, will take pride of place. The anvil from which L’Enclume takes its name, is likely to remain.

The exterior of the grey-stoned, slate roofed ex smithy, originating from the 13th Century, belies the modernized interior that is now home of L’Enclume restaurant and four of its twelve guest rooms. Low, oak beamed ceilings of the original building coexist with modern spotlighting, leather backed chairs and a bright conservatory extension. Bare topped tables in the fifty cover restaurant are well spaced, although these and the leather chairs are about to be replaced.

Two twelve-course menus, one wholly vegetarian, are offered alongside a shorter eight course option. What impresses the diner are not just the consistent precision of the cooking, clean tastes, textural complexity and artistic presentation – as if these were not enough – but also the enormous range of ingredients, many of which are unfamiliar of half forgotten. Each multi-component dish is a tour de force of invention and technical skill, delighting, and often playing with, the senses. Every ingredient is given the same attention to detail to maximize taste and texture; indeed, a hardened carnivore could easily be seduced by the emphasis on vegetables, herbs and hedgerow ingredients.

Of the three home made breads offered at the start of the meal, pumpernickel was outstanding in its gentle sweetness and soft texture.

An amuse bouche of chick pea cracker with garlic flower was suitably crisp, delicate and light. This went perfectly with the champagne aperitif.

Served in a ceramic sack, a layered combination of carrot puree and fried “cake” covered a base of succulent Cumbrian ham. With the instruction to taste all elements in one mouthful, this proved a tasty, well balanced construction.

Next came a highly imaginative, labour intensive offering of cod “yolk” which looked like an egg yolk but was actually composed of a warm mousse of salt-cod, dipped in fish jelly and coloured with tumeric. Amazingly the spice did not overwhelm the fish. A mayonnaise of garlic and egg cream imitated the egg white, whilst puffed wild rice spiked with vinegar powder was a playful salute to salt and vinegar crisps. Overall, this was a triumph of wit, taste and texture.

Chestnut dumplings and English mushrooms provided a range of earthy notes, the strongest being the black truffle shavings. A mild chestnut froth contrasted with its intense and consommé-like jelly which added a deep richness to the dish.

Compared with many of the other dishes, potted char seemed less adventurous but nonetheless perfectly executed: the rich buttery fish being balanced by pickled radish and a tuile of dill and rye toast. (Wines with the above: Riesling, Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley 2009, Australia)

Baked vintage pink fir potatoes were adorned with crisp potato skins and “ashes” of powdered roasted onion skin. Smoked goat’s cheese and sorrel added a fresh lift to this unusual but successful combination.

Earth and sea were showcased in a brilliant composition of roasted cauliflower and razor clam. The nutty caramelized floret matched the delicate sweetness of the utterly fresh razor clam. Seafood foam masked a surprise of seaweed and oyster which added a saline depth of flavour.

Grilled sea kale with golden beetroot, wild flower honey and salted hazelnuts had pleasing crisp, crunchy and soft textures with sweet and savoury notes. Its stunning presentation, like so many of the dishes on the menu, added interest and excitement to the dining experience.

Hake with chicken was another delightful gastronomic conceit. The crispy salted chicken skin worked well with the tranche of firm fleshed hake which it covered. Spring greens and artichoke puree added colour, flavour and texture, whilst a sauce of malted cider with a subtle sweet acidity, brought the dish together. (Wines with the above: Graves, Chateau Moulin, Bordeaux 2008, France)

The meat course of Gott’s Holker milk fed lamb featured cuts of shank, loin and sweetbread, all the elements being well flavoured and meltingly tender. Turnip rounds provided an ideal textural contrast. However, the addition of sheep milk curds would appeal to the more adventurous, but for others it might be an acquired taste. (Wine: Bourgone Pinot Noir, “Cuvee les Deux Pais”, A Gambal, Burgundy, 2006, France)

The optional cheese board offered one of the few concessions to foreign ingredients. All cheeses were in peak condition, and mont d’or, langres and comte were enjoyed with Cumbrian Prospect goats’ cheese. The accompanying chutneys and homemade crackers were excellent.

Desserts continued the themes of unusual combinations with sweet and savoury elements and contrasting textures

Cream crowdie was a salute to the Scottish dish, substituting rhubarb for berries and Douglas fir for a mint garnish.

Sea buckthorn puree, its astringency moderated in the cooking process, was matched with dainty muffins specked with blackberry powder. Cumbrian dark beer and liquorice provided a liquid base to this intriguing, beautifully presented dessert.

Best of all was an apple sorbet, the acidity of which was balanced perfectly by the sweetness of sliced beetroot. Thyme custard added herbal fragrance whilst the cobnut crisp gave textural contrast. This was one of many brilliantly conceived and precisely executed dishes. (Wines with desserts: Gaillac Doux Domaine, Rotier, 2007)

As if all the above was not enough, an unheralded course provided another culinary conundrum: a milk shake of pureed parsnip – again playing with the senses – was served with a miniature parkin. Good coffee and Kendal mint cake chocolate completed a highly memorable meal

Although restaurant manager Franck was absent, he had trained his staff well. Service was seamless and highly knowledgeable, not a mean feat given the number of multi-component dishes. When asked, waiting staff not only enlightened diners on the ingredients but also the cooking techniques. Wines were chosen to match each a group of dishes; again, a demanding task given the number of courses.

Finally, the patience of the waiting staff needs praise. Having arrived late, after major problems on a two hundred and fifty mile drive, I discovered I had lost my wallet somewhere in the dark streets of Cartmel. The calming, helpful manner with which Camilla and Rebecca dealt with this situation enabled me to enjoy the meal in a relaxed frame of mind.

In the end, the experience of eating L’Enclume was well worth the journey. As a destination restaurant, many are prepared to travel long distances and stay in one of its twelve rooms. The suite I stayed in, overlooking the village square was spacious, lavishly decorated in a French style, and extremely comfortable.

The full bookings of restaurant and rooms testify to the attraction of L’Enclume to genuine foodies. Their high expectations, like mine, are met and exceeded. Having embraced Cumbria to the full, it would be pleasing for Simon Rogan to see the locals reciprocate by patronizing L’Enclume more than they do. There can be few chefs – if any – who have the confidence and virtuosity to change their menus so regularly, being governed by the trinity of seasonality, sustainability and regionality.

With a brigade of just seven in the kitchen the wonders produced reflect meticulous planning, organization and execution. Simon Rogan and his team have created a restaurant of which they can be justifiably proud and which is going from strength to strength. The recognition it has achieved is fully deserved and it can only be a matter of time before Michelin awards it the second star it deserves.

Richard Davies’ (Above) cheerful, engaging personality makes him instantly likeable, and must be a major asset in a busy kitchen. With an impressive CV, having worked in the restaurants of Gordon Ramsay, John Campbell and Thomas Keller to name but three top chefs, he became Head Chef of Sawyards Restaurant in West Sussex at the age of 25. Within 6 months he had gained a Michelin star.

Richard admits he fell in love with the Manor House – as many do – when approaching the hotel along the majestic drive for his first interview, Arriving to take control of the kitchens in August 2007, he was awarded a Michelin star in January 2009, the 18 months being short by Michelin standards if not his own.

He admits that John Campbell helped him to moderate his intense, aggressive Ramsayesque approach. Now his calmer manner in the kitchen is used to produce a cuisine streets ahead of most luxury country house hotels, meeting and often exceeding diners’ high expectations.

Although he uses it as convenient shorthand, Richard is hesitant in describing his cooking as “modern British cuisine,” The broad range of styles and time period it encompasses, makes the tag too imprecise and misleading: even Heston, he claims, is now doing what Ferran Adria has pioneered for years. He reflects on how chefs should not be too “militant” and inflexible in their approach, as this can result in stiff and over formal service in the restaurant. An element of fun, with a more relaxed approach – as seen in his favourite restaurant, The Ledbury – will enhance the dining experience.

Whilst not intentionally aiming for a star, his cooking style and dishes he likes to eat happily fit into the Michelin mould. There was less pressure in the kitchen, he admits, before gaining a star, but keeping it has made him more demanding and questioning of his own product. Ultimately, however, he will cook what the customers, those who pay the bills, prefer.

The classical French base of his cooking is adapted with innovative, contemporary touches. Menus change with the seasons, but not all at once, with new dishes being introduced gradually, or half at any one time. Richard is also not obsessed with local produce, which he feels can be over hyped. Whilst applauding local boar and lamb, which he can trace from field to plate, he will not sacrifice quality for locality. Thus, he still sources hand dived scallops from the Isle of Skye, which he views as the best. Another reason is that local ingredients, including those from the kitchen garden, cannot possibly sustain a restaurant of up to 90 covers, plus the demands of various private and corporate functions,. Indeed the £1.2 million spent on food last year suggests the need for sourcing from a much wider market.

The Bybrook dining room is an extension added in 1980. Although large, with well spaced tables accommodating 50+ covers, the room lacks the character and charm of the older parts of the hotel. Far from enlivening the room, the oak beams, carved stone work, stained glass windows, chandeliers, gilt framed portraits and thick drapes add to its heavy feel. Perhaps this is an advantage, because the real interest in the room lies in the food

Menus range from the good value market menu at lunch (£30) to the carte (£60 for three courses) and the Menu Prestige (£72 for five courses with an amuse bouche and pre dessert)

Fine Dining Guide had the pleasure of sampling the Menu Prestige with matching wines on a quiet weekday evening

Mi-cuit of salmon exposed the utter freshness and delicacy of the fish in its semi cooked form. A puree of celeriac and horseradish gave a gentle kick, whilst beetroot added sweetness and contrasting texture. A generous blob of caviar provided the necessary salt, giving also a luxurious decadence. Although only an amuse bouche, this was a highly innovative, perfectly balanced composition, auguring well for what was to follow.

Seared scallops with cauliflower puree and oven dried florets has been tried and tested in many high end restaurants. What distinguishes Richard’s version is the addition of an agro dolce dressing, a balsamic based sweet and sour reduction which elevated without overwhelming the seafood. (Wine: Rias Baixas, Viegadares.Albarino, Adegas Galegas, Galicia, Spain 2008)

The quality of the Torchon of duck foie gras was exceptional: marination, salting, spicing and rolling of the lobe had been carefully executed to produce a rich, smooth and melting result. Balancing this were gingerbread tuile which gave crispness and a fig and port reduction and jelly adding a depth of sweetness. (Wine: Gewurtztraminer Signature, Rene Mure, Alsace, France 2008)

Pan fried turbot was perfectly timed to produce a golden crust with firm meaty flesh. This robust fish easily stood up to the earthy, rich flavour of the cep, celeriac and pancetta fricassee garnish. (Wine: Bramito, Chardonnay, Castello dello Sala, Umbrio, Italy, 2008)

Lamb was served in two ways: the herb crusted cannon was cooked pink to maximize flavour whilst a confit belly benefited from long slow cooking giving a melting unctuousness. This contrasted with mushy peas, a truly inspired garnish which added a freshness and colour. So too did the now ubiquitous pea shoots which, thankfully, were used in moderation, although they did add a distinctive fragrance to the dish. (Wine: La Fleur Laroze, Merlot, Caberet Franc, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux , France 2005)

A pre dessert of rhubarb and orange jelly, vanilla cream orange granite proved an excellent balance of contrasting textures and temperatures and sweet and astringent flavours.

Warm Valrhona chocolate fondant was suitably rich and runny. The rum ice cream might have benefited from more alcohol, although the chestnut puree avoided being over sweet. (Banyuls, Rimage. Les Clos de Paulilles, Grenache Noir, Roussilln, France 2008)

Incidentals of home made breads (a choice of four, the foccaccia being the best), coffee and petit fours were all top notch

This was a highly satisfying meal, clearly demonstrating the precision and versatility of Richard Davies’ cooking. It was enhanced by efficient, helpful and knowledgeable service overseen by Head Waiter Michal Szelagowski. Assistant sommelier Ben, in particular, was effusive in his matching wine descriptions, keen to demonstrate his expertise.

The Bybrook is a restaurant of which the hotel can be justifiably proud. Its popularity, especially at lunchtimes and at weekends, reflects a solid appreciation of the skill and creativity of Richard Davies. Whilst attracting local clientele, especially at lunchtimes, it has also become a destination restaurant and is clearly going from strength to strength.