Over the last twenty years Leith, the declining port of Edinburgh, has witnessed a redevelopment which has transformed it into the seat of the Scottish Executive and a modernised residential and retail centre, alive with new restaurants and wine bars which serve as a magnet for the leisure and social life of the capital.

Tom Kitchin opened his eponymous restaurant here in June 2006. The Michelin star awarded after just six months and held ever since testifies to the prodigious talent of this young chef patron. Now, five and a half years later, his cooking continues to go from strength to strength, fully justifying the critical acclaim it has received.

Not that the setting and décor of The Kitchen gives much indication of the gastronomic delights that await the diner. Seen from the main road, the exterior of the restaurant – part of a converted two storey whiskey warehouse – is so understated it can easily be missed. In fact this is the back view. On the opposite side, the glass fronted main entrance, accessed from a quayside piazza, is more impressive, with a conservatory style bar on the right and attractive displays of wine in the corridor leading to the dining room. Here, as if to focus attention on the food, the curtains are drawn, even at lunchtime, and the décor and furnishings are essentially simple and functional. Large, well spaced tables lack the fine napery associated with a fine dining restaurant. The dark green walls and grey carpeting are relieved by well directed spotlighting, whilst a large internal window, the source of most natural light, also gives views of the kitchen.

What does impress, however, is the excited buzz and warm feel that comes from diners genuinely enjoying their food, which contrasts with the hushed reverential tones and stiff formality so often encountered in fine dining restaurants. It is a tribute to all concerned that the considerable skills in the kitchen are balanced with the relaxed, unintimidating atmosphere of the dining room.

Using classical training gained in the top ranked restaurants, including those of Guy Savoy, Alan Ducasse and his acknowledged mentor Pierre Koffman, Tom Kitchin’s modern British cuisine emphasises pure, often bold flavours and simple, elegant presentation. Innovative dishes such as bone marrow and snails or beef carpaccio with foie gras beignet appear alongside classics like hare royale and game terrine. Saucing enhances rather than overwhelms the main component, plates are not overcomplicated with excessive garnishes, and due care is given to balance tastes and textures. Great skill is demonstrated in the timing of cooking and in the combination of ingredients. His “Nature to Plate” philosophy of food also celebrates the bounty of top quality, seasonal and largely Scottish produce, its provenance being given due credit on the menu. Seafood and game are, naturally, major strengths. The winter menu, offering an embarrassment of riches, features razor clams from Arisaig, Orkney scallops, West Coast squat lobster, Shetland cod and Scrabster turbot. Alongside these are red legged partridge and roe deer from the Borders, Hare from Humbie and Woodcock from Perthshire

The menu structure accommodates a range of pockets and appetites. As a cheaper, but no less accomplished alternative to the carte, the set lunch menu, with three choices in each of three courses, provides outstanding value at £26.50, or £31.50 with cheese as an extra course. A surprise tasting menu  comprising seven items, coffee and petit fours is priced at £70. Wine pairings are also offered with these two menus.

A lunchtime visit to The Kitchin in early December revealed its qualities to the full.

A selection of winter crudités, including radishes, carrot and celery, provided clean, crunchy nibbles whilst perusing the menu. How pleasing, also, to see crudités, which have almost disappeared from fine dining restaurants, being offered at all.

The breads, which included sour dough, granary, black olive, and tomato, had crisp crusts and firm crumb, the black olive being particularly flavoursome.

As an amuse bouche, a small bowl of impeccably clear chicken consommé was enlivened by apple, cabbage and grapes. This was an unusual, bold combination which worked.

The first course from the set lunch menu featured a raviolo of silk like pasta generously filled with beautifully sweet West Coast shellfish. It was surrounded by deeply flavoured, lightly foamed langoustine bisque, given added warmth by a light curried spicing. Vegetable julienne provided a contrasting texture to this accomplished dish. The fruity acidity of the accompanying white wine was a good foil for the richness of the food. (Wine: Pacharenc du Vic Bilh sec Domaine Berthomieu 2009 Gers France)

Next came a signature dish from the carte. Steamed razor clams (sproots), were precisely timed to preserve their sweet, succulent taste and delicate texture. Combined with diced al dente vegetables and chorizo sausage in a cream sauce, the richness was cut by the addition of lemon confit. This dish, beautifully presented in its shell and topped with grilled squid, was a tour de force of harmonious tastes and textures. The zesty citrus tang and minerality of the Riesling was, again, a fitting wine match. (Wine: Riesling Little Beauty 2010 Malborough New Zealand.)

The main course, taken from the “Celebration of the Season” menu for a supplement, was roasted woodcock. Again, skilled cooking allowed all the gaminess of this prized bird to be enjoyed at it medium rare best. The presentation was classical, with the head and long beak split lengthways so the delicate brains could be scooped out. The crouton, spread with a puree of the cooked innards and foie gras, gave an intense, strong flavour, complemented by a powerful salmis sauce which brought the dish together. Roasted pumpkin puree, salsify, potato gnocchi, and sprouts were simple vegetable accompaniments balancing this robust, bold flavour of the woodcock. Equally intense was the Spanish wine, the black fruit qualities of which complemented the game well. (Wine: Ribera Del Duero Crianza Valduero Spain 2007)

For dessert on the set menu, a chocolate chip soufflé, was well risen and had a light and fluffy texture. Equally accomplished was a velvety smooth chocolate ice cream. The dessert wine, aged for thirteen years in Armagnac casks, had concentrated flavour but was nevertheless fresh on the palate. (Wine:Antic Muscat Consolation Riversaltes 1996)

Good expresso coffee and well made petit fours – nougat, chocolate truffle, mini tartlet and macaroon – completed a flawless, memorable meal.

Service was excellent: professional without being stuffy; attentive without being obtrusive; and knowledgeable without being patronising. As seen above, the sommelier masterly paired wines with the food. Overseeing the front of house in a fully booked lunch service of some 60 covers was maitre d’ Sylvain, whose welcoming charm puts diners at their ease.

It is hardly surprising that The Kitchin has a strong local following as well as attracting many from further afield. In a period of economic austerity, it continues to thrive both as a neighbourhood and destination restaurant, a testament to the passion of its founder and the hard work of his team. In a city that now boasts five Michelin starred restaurants, The Kitchin will clearly hold its own in the competitive world of fine dining.

In recent years the north-east quadrant of Mayfair has seen the proliferation of fine dining restaurants, with Sketch, Hibiscus and Wild Honey joining The Square and Umu in gaining Michelin starred recognition. Given competition as strong as this, it is a brave chef indeed who dares to enter the fray. Yet this is what Alyn Williams has done with his eponymous restaurant at the Westbury Hotel; and, given a recent visit by Fine Dining Guide in its second week of opening, the signs are most promising.

What used to be the Artisan restaurant has, thankfully, been transformed out of all recognition into a stylish, contemporary dining room. Alex Kravet’s design features handsome rosewood panelling, attractive bespoke lighting and richly tufted grey carpet – complete with glitter which adds an opulent feel. Well spaced tables and light cream velvet backed chairs and banquettes accommodate up to 45 diners, plus the spectacular glass walled Wine Room – complete with 600 bottles – adding eight more places, with another 18 in the adjacent private dining room.

This is a fine setting for the cuisine of Alyn Williams, whose impeccable CV includes – most recently –  four years as Head chef at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, as well as experience at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants in Royal Hospital Road, Claridges and the original Petrus in St James’ Street. However, whilst his skills were honed in some of the finest Michelin starred kitchens in London, he has not embraced the style of his mentors, developing instead his own brand of innovative, modern European cooking. His dishes, using top quality, well sourced seasonal and mainly British ingredients are strong on technique, clear on flavour, harmonious in combination and artistic in presentation. Nor is his cooking without humour, wit and surprise. Menu descriptions list the main components of each dish but totally understate the complexity of cooking methods and the beauty of presentation.

High quality canapés were impressive in themselves and augured well for the meal to come: dainty gougeres had crisp choux pastry, strongly flavoured with Fourme d’Ambert; risotto balls were gently perfumed with truffle; delicate prawn crackers were filled with prawn and tom yum mayonnaise; and beignets of rich sea bass belly – so often discarded by lesser chefs – were accompanied a smooth taramasalata of its roe.

Next came two delightful amuse–bouches served in cocktail glasses. A layered dish of white crab meat, beef cheek and onion consommé had beautifully clear flavours, whilst creamy cauliflower panna cotta was dressed with acorn shavings and given contrasting texture with shredded fried leaves and filo wafers filled with cream cheese.

A first course of “sand carrot / liquorice / foie gras” surprised the diner in both taste and texture. The semi freddo mousse, moulded into torchon shapes, was more subtle in taste, less rich and fatty than classic foie gras dishes. Pickled sand carrot gave a sweet and sour dimension whilst the liquorice based dressing added a background herbal note which complimented the other elements well.

Seared Orkney scallop was perfectly timed to retain its succulence and sweetness. It was balanced by a Mersea oyster, less salty that other varieties, and topped with Aquitaine caviar. Sea purslane and a refreshing cucumber jus, poured at the table, finished this composition of different tastes, temperatures and textures.

Sauteed veal sweetbreads, marinated in sherry had a creamy moistness which obviated the need for a sauce. Artichoke puree and braised celery and button mushrooms added earthy notes and textural complexity to balance the luxuriously rich offal

Hake in seaweed butter made good use of this underrated and underused fish. Its robust flavour and firm texture stood up well to the imaginatively chosen whelk, sea vegetable and autumn truffle accompaniments.

Sous vide smoked duck egg provided the flavoursome dipping sauce for toasted “soldiers” sandwiched with fragrant autumn trnffle. Celeriac remoulade and Jangold apple discs added a different crunch and gentle acidity which this rich dish needed.

Cotswold white chicken – perhaps the English equivalent of Poulet de Bresse? – came in three forms: a lightly battered nugget of its breast; a rich confit of its leg and a beautifully clear, intense consommé. Onion ravioli and celery root provided more robust elements to this highly satisfying dish.

Even more accomplished was the next composite dish. Herdwick lamb fillet, pink and tender, was given added richness by a bacon of its belly. A delicate parmesan custard, spinach and fennel provided more savoury notes to balance the sweetness of the lamb, whilst the whole dish was brought together by a deeply flavoured jus.

Desserts showed same creativity and attention to detail as the other courses, together with a certain nostalgic playfulness.

A pre dessert of crème Catalan and pear granite excited the palate with its clean flavours and differing textures.

“Walnut whip” featured a feather light mousse, rich velvety ice cream, and a candied nut topped with gold leaf.

A terrine of layered caramelised apples came with an “afternoon tea” of mini scone and clotted cream, and a brilliantly conceived sorbet of blackberry and apple “mivvi”

Other aspects of the meal were also first rate.

Well made breads comprised firmly textured stout and star anise, light potato sour dough; and crisp Persian lavash.. These came with unusual but delicious whipped caraway seed butter. Good coffee came with indulgent chocolate and coffee truffles.

Head Sommelier Alex Gilbert paired food and wine with consummate ease whilst Giancarlo Princigalli managed the knowledgeable, unobtrusive service with professional skill and charm.

Prices at the time of writing provide a clear incentive to dine at the Westbury. Three lunchtime courses are competitively priced at £26. The carte, with five options in each course comes at £45, modest by West End standards and at this level of cooking. However, an even better deal comes with the seven course tasting menu, a real bargain at £55.

Clearly Alyn Williams at the Westbury has made an impressive start to what is likely to be a successful future. Here is a highly experienced, creative chef near the top of his game, but still with an energy and creativity to produce refined, innovative dishes. There is no reason, therefore, why he should not emulate his distinguished neighbours in achieving the Michelin starred status he deserves.

The fine dining scene in Edinburgh is alive and well, with an embarrassment of choice for discerning foodies. In the 2012 guides, five restaurants hold a Michelin star, seven have three or more AA rosettes, and nine are marked 4/10 or higher in the Good Food Guide. Clearly the city now has a gastronomic scene to match its spectacular setting, historical monuments and cultural achievements.

Foremost in this exciting development is Martin Wishart, whose eponymous restaurant has held a Michelin star since 2001 – the first in the city to be awarded that coveted accolade. It also boasts four AA rosettes, and is consistently awarded 8/10 in the Good Food Guide. Amongst the other concerns in his expanding gastronomic empire are a cookery school, a restaurant in the Cameron House Hotel on Loch Lomand and, more recently, The Honours Brasserie in the city centre. Martin has received many accolades, but the ultimate recognition for his achievements came in 2011 when he was named Chefs’ Chef at the AA Restaurant Awards.

Restaurant Martin Wishart is to be found in Leith, the redevelopment of which has given new life to Edinburgh’s declining port. Located on the quayside, its unremarkable exterior on the ground floor of a grey stoned building belies the elegant sophistication within. The furnishings and décor – well spaced tables, comfortable leather seating, mirrored walls, wooden Venetian blinds, sumptuous curtaining, plush carpeting and stylish lighting – all give a soothing, relaxed feel. The room, however, is to undergo major refurbishment in January 2012, although regular diners can be assured that the new look will reach the highest standards in materials and design.

Creativity in composition and consistency in execution, are essential hallmarks of Martin Wishart’s cooking. Blessed with top quality, seasonal – largely Scottish – produce, and using classical and modern techniques gained in the kitchens of top British, American and European chefs, his innovative dishes delight the eye and excite the palate. Harmony of flavour, balance of texture and purity of taste always take centre stage. Saucing is a major strength, with foams and smears kept to a minimum. Cooking techniques are mainly traditional and classical with pickling, smoking, roasting and braising all featuring strongly.

The labour intensive, multiple component dishes are fully demonstrated in the winter carte of five starters (four featuring shellfish), five mains (two being fish), and seven desserts. Diners who have difficulty choosing can opt for the six course tasting menu with alternatives in two of the courses. There is also a vegetarian tasting option. Great care is taken to show the provenance of the ingredients on all the menus.

Fine–dining–guide visited in early December, finding much to admire in the tasting menu with its celebration of exquisite Scottish produce.

A beetroot macaroon with horseradish cream, which melted in the mouth, and salsify, pickled cabbage and peanut mayonnaise, which contrasted in taste and texture, were refined canapés to accompany a glass of champagne.

The freshly baked rolls – black olive, white with poppy seeds, and granary with pumpkin seeds – were flavoursome, with crisp crusts and firm crumb

A trio of amuses bouches featuring chestnut soup with hazelnut oil, pickled mushrooms and yellow corn puree combined savoury, sour and sweet elements which succeeded in tickling the taste buds.

Jerusalem artichoke veloute had a deep earthy flavour and a smooth, velvety texture. It was lifted by the addition of pan fried veal sweetbreads, with caramelised crust and creamy interior, and given a final surprise with a layer of rich chestnut puree at the bottom of the bowl. The matching white wine had a good intensity and freshness, with a crisp finish which worked well with the dish. (Wine: Pernault Vergelesse, Dom Rollin, Burgundy, France 2001)

Next came ceviche of Gigha halibut with mango and passion fruit. This proved to be a triumph of taste and texture. The robust, meaty fish, cubed for the marinade, was not overwhelmed by the sweet fragrance of the soft mango or the astringent, lingering after taste of the passion fruit. Indeed the harmony of flavours was perfectly balanced. A small meringue gave a contrasting crisp texture to what has become the chef’s signature dish. Wine pairing for this would be difficult, but the sommelier made a brilliant choice with a Muscat, the clean, dry, intense lime acidity and light body providing the perfect match.  (Wine: V.D.P. D’Oc Muscat Sec, Domaine de la Provenquere “Les fruits defundus,” 2010)

An abundance of riches was crammed into the following small dish of white truffle risotto, Isle of Mull scallop and parmesan. The scallop, huge even by Michelin restaurant standards, was cooked to perfection, retaining its succulence under a golden crust. The rice had the correct degree of creaminess, enhanced by the deep but not overpowering saltiness of the parmesan and the earthy fragrance of a generous shaving of white truffle. The dry white wine, with delicate, elegant palate was another good pairing. (Wine; F.M.C. Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa. 2009)

Following this was another innovative dish.  Loch Ryan Native Oyster was layered under green apple jelly, sauerkraut in the form of spherical beads – one of the few signs of molecular techniques – and topped with caviar d’Aquitaine. This masterly combination worked well in its marriage of unusually paired flavours, clean tastes and contrasting textures. Visually, it was stunning. The wine had a suitably fresh, crisp palate and dry mineral finish.  (Wine; Weingut Braudlmayer, Reisling, 2009)

Kilbrannon langoustines were breathtaking in their delicately soft sweetness. A scattering of “crumbs” of parsnip and white chocolate – another ingenious molecular technique -complemented the crustaceans well, whilst a sauce of verjus and smoked butter – neither too powerful – gave additional flavour. The Viognier had a well balanced acidity, ideal for shellfish. (Wine: Viognier de Rosine, Stephanie Ogier, France 2009)

The meat course featured a beautiful loin of Ayreshire hare, roasted medium rare to maximise its gamey flavour and soft, juicy texture. A richly flavoured civet and celeriac pastilla, red cabbage, port braised parsnip and dauphine potato proved to be excellent garnishes. A rich game jus brought this tour de force of a dish together. The dark berry fruit and tobacco flavours of the Merlot wine was a fine partner for the robust, earthiness of the food.  (Wine: Shafer Merlot, Nappa Valley. California, USA  2005)

Two desserts revealed the undoubted strengths of the pastry section.

A glossy cylinder of tempered Valrhona dark chocolate, reminiscent in shape of the teardrops of Nouvelle Cuisine, was filled with a delicious chocolate cremeux and garnished with a well made ice cream and chocolate shortbread. This was well matched with a dark, syrupy Maury, with its palate of smoked raisins and liquorice. (Wine: N.V. Maury 15 years prestige , Mas Amiel, France.

A less rich alternative saw poached Comice pear with ice cream, praline, caramel, and roasted hazelnuts. This was a refreshing dessert with contrasting fruit and nut flavours with soft and crunchy textures. The rich but light sweet wine was the final inspired choice for the sommelier. (Wine: Noans La Tunella  Friuli,  Italy  2008)

Good coffee and delectable petit fours completed a memorable meal.

Other aspects of the restaurant were also first rate. The impressive wine list, which won AA restaurant wine list in 2006, had a predominant French section and a wide selection of New World and European vintages by the glass from which Sommelier Patrick Cooper expertly selected the flight of wines. Finally, the welcoming, knowledgeable and seamlessly efficient service, overseen by the utterly professional and charming restaurant manager Jean-Christophe Froge, enhanced the whole experience.

As Edinburgh’s leading fine dining establishment, Restaurant Martin Wishart continues to go from strength to strength, building on seemingly inexhaustible energy and creativity of its chef patron. He and his well drilled team are producing food of two Michelin star quality, so it remains a mystery why this distinction is yet to be achieved. Clearly, it can only be a matter of time before it is awarded. We all await the 2013 guide with interest.

To many critics, London has eclipsed Paris as the food capital of Europe. This applies not only to high end fine dining but also to less grand but no less worthy restaurants such as Angelus. At this brasserie de luxe, the distinction between the two capitals disappears as classic French food and design are integrated into a traditional converted British pub. Indeed, the  relaxed, homely feel and Gallic buzz during a busy service are almost palpable.

Having opened to critical acclaim in 2007, Angelus has maintained its high standards and loyal following over the last four years. The Auld Alliance, now personified in French founder owner Thierry Tomasin and Scottish head chef Martin Nisbet, has produced a delightful gem of a restaurant in the heart of the English capital. Their success is built on impressive professional experience. Thierry was Chief Sommelier at Le Gavroche for twelve years before being General Manager of Aubergine for the next five. Amongst his many accolades are the Chairman Sommelier of Britain (1996) and the Excellence Award Master of Culinary Art. and Tatler Best Maitre d’ for 2005. Martin was Senior Sous Chef under Anton Edelmann at the Savoy and ran his own restaurant in Hertfordshire before coming to Angelus in 2009.

Thierry Tomasin (Left) and Chef Martin Nisbet

True to his origins, Thierry has designed Angelus to replicate the traditional elements of a French brasserie. The handsome exterior with purple grey awning has terrace tables for al fresco dining. Inside, simple square tables – closely arranged as in France to encourage conviviality – are set against luxurious leather banquettes, dark wood décor and Art Deco stylised mirrors which give a greater sense of space. ‘Murano’ glass chandeliers hang from the original high ceilings to provide ample lighting. The glamourous lounge is more eclectic in design, with supremely comfortable crushed velvet banquettes, stencilled walls and exotic soft lighting. The private dining room in the old pub cellar features a glass wall overlooking the prized wine cellar.

Martin Nisbet’s carte of seven entrees, eight plats and six desserts showcases seasonal specialities, cooked precisely and presented simply. Strong, bold flavours and rich sauces abound, yet main courses, which include vegetable garnishes, are remarkably well balanced in taste and texture.

A signature entrée of Foie gras crème brulee “Angelus” was outstanding. Ethereally light, meltingly soft and decadently rich, the parfait contrasted in taste and texture with its crisp, delicate sweet topping of caramelised brown sugar, almonds and poppy seeds. Served in the shallow well of a simple white bowl, which set off the extravagant contents well, this was a remarkable, memorable opening to the meal.

An alternative starter featured Loch Duart salmon, gently marinated in citrus to cut its rich oiliness. The resulting pure, clean taste of the fish was enhanced by the sourness of herb crème fraiche and the saltiness of a caviar garnish. Again, the simple presentation of this dish added to its attraction. The white wine offered – Maison Chanson, Macon Villages 2009 – went well with both dishes. Pale gold in colour, it had a delicate floral fragrance, good acidity and subtle minerality.

A main course of roasted stone bass was far from the wreck that has given this fish its alternative name. Indeed, the utterly fresh fillet had been perfectly timed to produce crisp skin and flakes of succulent flesh. Confit chicken wings provided a denser texture and sweeter taste, whilst potato mash was lifted by the addition of smoked garlic and lemon. Red wine jus brought the other elements of this successful dish together.

More robust flavours were to be found in Hare Royale, so rarely seen on menus that that the diner is almost inevitably drawn to it. Nor did it disappoint. The ballotine of dark meat, cooked with bacon and sitting in a pool of its intense thickened braising jus, was moist and gamey, but not overwhelmingly so. Added richness came from the foie gras stuffing, whilst glazed chestnuts and cubes of roasted butternut squash gave sweetness and textural contrast to balance the supremely earthy qualities of the hare. This was a tour de force of classical French cooking.  The wine with this dish, Chateau Civrac, Cote de Bourg, 2009, was light bodied with soft fruit notes.

Another ambitious and rarely seen dish, this time from the dessert menu, was Souffle Rothschild. This was classically flavoured with candied fruit and well risen, if slightly too eggy in texture. However, the orange sauce spiked with Grand Marnier and a gently soured orange yogurt ice cream were inspired additions which complemented the sweet, warm soufflé perfectly.

In a simpler dessert, roasted pear, delicate and soft, was served with an intense rum and muscavado jelly and a well balanced gingerbread ice cream. Here was another combination of tastes and textures which worked perfectly together.  (Wine: Clos Dady 2007, Sauternes)

Other aspects of dining at Angelus, from the rustic bread, good coffee, and well informed, efficient service, were all first rate. Overseeing the whole operation, and greeting us with characteristic Gallic charm was Thierry Tomasin, whose passion for and dedication to his craft are clearly evident. Overall, there seems no reason why Angelus should not go from strength to strength, consolidating its position as an excellent neighbourhood restaurant whilst, given its proximity to Lancaster Gate and Paddington stations, attracting those from further afield.

Frankly, when first asked to review Gilgamesh, I had strong reservations. Aware of the size of this huge venue in Camden Town Stables Market, I feared the worst: mass catering of indifferent quality with inefficient and impersonal service. Since opening in 2007 its survival, I surmised, must, be down to everything but the food – the bars, the VIP lounge, the Oriental tea room, the sumptuous furnishings, the lavish décor, and the loud funky music which gives it a throbbing, night club feel. In my ignorance I also assumed the food was Middle Eastern, given the Babylonian god which gives Gilgamesh its name.

How wrong I was on all fronts. Gilgamesh certainly accommodates large numbers – 240 covers in the main restaurant, with up to 680 if the other rooms are fully occupied. But the food and service are surprising good for such a large establishment. Indeed, the extensive pan Asian menu – Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Malaysian – has an abundance of popular, well executed dishes. It is these which entice the largely young, well heeled clientele to return in their droves. The other glamorous attractions largely serve to complement the output of the main restaurant.

Not that the style can be ignored. Within this glass walled structure no expense has been spared in creating sensuous, almost decadent surroundings. The escalator with its celestial lighting forms a dramatic entrance. The restaurant’s forty foot vaulted ceiling has a retractable roof for hot weather. The stylish Lapis stone bar is spacious with comfortable booth seating. Two statues of Gilgamesh and bronze ancient Babylonian friezes form an impressive historical backdrop. Marble pillars inlaid with mother of pearl; decorated ceiling panels; and heavily embroidered banquettes around hand carved dark wooden tables all reflect serious craftsmanship as well as unbridled opulence. The VIP Babylon lounge, where the music is more subdued, provides even more luxury, the seating booths being divided by long flowing gossamer like curtains.

At the heart of all this is the kitchen headed by Ian Pengelley, who received critical acclaim at E&O in Notting Hill, The Hempel Hotel, and his eponymous restaurant in Sloane Street.  His childhood years spent in Hong Kong and later gastronomic tours of Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia during a career break, confirmed his love of, and experience with, pan Asian cuisine. Leading a large, multinational brigade in the open, stone carved kitchen, he has developed a carefully balanced menu to represent some the best dishes from China, Japan and south east Asia The current choices feature three soups, six salads, seven small, nine dim sum, four tempura, ten Gilamesh main and six side dishes. Those dining in the Babylon lounge can also choose from a seafood menu and a roving Peking duck trolley.

What impresses most is accuracy and freshness of the cooking which preserves essential tastes, flavours and textures. Given the diversity of cuisines and large number of covers on a busy evening, to maintain a consistently high quality is no mean achievement.

Fine Dining Guide visited Gilgamesh on a busy Friday evening and ate in the Babylon lounge.

Whilst nibbling over a bowl of edemame beans, we chose from the recently introduced and spectacularly presented Seafood Bar for our first set of dishes and were not disappointed. The utterly fresh shellfish arrived in an attractive, artistic display. Cold lobster had been precisely timed to retain its sweetness and delicate texture – a far cry from the cotton wool often served in establishments which should know better. Razor clams steamed with black beans were memorable for their delectable succulence, and king prawns were given added interested by a not overpowering mango salsa.

The second innovation was the Peking duck trolley. At the tableside the assistant carefully carved slices off the bird and made up the pancakes. Whilst the duck meat was well cooked, no crisp skin – crucial in this dish – was offered, whilst the whole process took too long to complete. This kind of service, although avoiding mess for the diner, is inappropriate and too time consuming for large tables, especially as there only appeared to be one trolley circulating the room. Perhaps pre ordering this dish for the whole table, with its deconstruction in the kitchen, might be a better alternative?

The rest of meal was left to the discretion of the chef who decided next on a selection  of small dishes. Outstanding amongst these was crispy squid, deep fried in a beautifully light batter, spiked with spring onion and garlic chips and served with a sweet and sour adjud sauce. Nestled in a paper cone, this taste and texture sensation has become a signature dish.

Silk like slices of salmon sashimi were served over dry ice which provided a spectacle to accompany the pure clean taste of the fish. Chicken Gyoza, (like pot sticker dumplings), and prawn spring rolls with white sesame seeds and tomato salsa were both well flavoured and generously filled. More unusual but no less delicious were the prawn and banana spring rolls, whose savoury and sweet filling was encased in crisp rice paper

Main courses proved equally accomplished.  Black Cod, marinated in plum miso sauce and cooked on a hoba leaf, was first rate. The delicate, soft flakes of fish with caramelised skin simply melted in the mouth, whilst the rich, deeply flavoured sweet and salty sauce was finely tuned to avoid overpowering the main ingredient. This dish was superior to similar versions dishes served in more celebrated, expensive restaurants.

Beef Penang also delighted. The meat was juicy and well flavoured, whilst the essential features of this dry curry were well executed. The spiciness of the sauce was tempered by the correct amount of coconut milk and its fragrance enhanced by a moderate addition of kaffir lime leaves.

Spiced lamb, cooked pink and served in large cubes, came with enoki mushrooms and a fiery wasabi puree, providing a good contrast to the other two main dishes.

Side dishes of coconut rice and noodles with sir fried vegetables complemented the main dishes perfectly.

Although the dessert menu features chocolate fondant, chocolate and green tea brulee and banana and toffee crumble, a lighter, more refreshing alternative was found in a selection of fruit sorbets, which had intense flavour and velvety texture.

Instead of choosing to drink from the extensive range of teas, sake or wines, we decided to opt for cocktails. We chose well with Dilmun (made with Absolut Citron, watermelon, mint, sugar and cranberry), Shuruppak (Eristoff vodka, apricot, watermelon, berries and pineapple) and Shamash (champagne with Bombay Gin, lychee liquor and fruit)

The embarrassment of choice of food and drink requires the front of house to be well informed to guide new or even regular diners. In this respect the Gilgamesh succeeds, its courteous and solicitous waiting staff being eager to advise and assist without being intrusive. Overseeing them is the charming

Reception Manager Frank Folly helps the restaurant run like clockwork, but not without a personal touch.

All this comes at a price. Those who complain the prices are too steep should consider the huge investment that has gone into making a visit to Gilgamesh a total experience, with the same drama and spectacle expected at fine dining restaurants but on a larger scale. More importantly, they should also bear in mind the top quality ingredients, the consistently high standard of cooking and the welcoming, efficient service. Clearly, as the last five years have seen, the prices are seen as competitive and worth paying by its loyal following, making Gilgamesh not only a neighbourhood venue, but one attracting many from further afield.