Restaurants with rooms have been well established in France for many years but are a comparatively recent development in the UK. With all diners, including the driver, wanting to relax after the soporific effects of a great dinner with matching wines, the advantages of a stay are patently clear.

For chef patrons, the need to please an increasingly discerning clientele presents a double challenge. Foremost, the standard of cuisine must be high enough to justify often long journeys to (sometimes) remote rural locations. Almost as important is the standard of accommodation, which must offer a degree of comfort, style and design that can compete with country house hotels without incurring the same, sometimes hefty, expense.

The Whitebrook – formerly known as the Crown at Whitebrook – delivers impressively on both fronts. Set in the Wye Valley, within easy driving distance of Chepstow, Monmouth and Tintern Abbey, it is an ideal base from which to explore an area of outstanding natural beauty and historical interest.
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The accommodation, eight rooms graded five stars by the AA and Welsh Tourist Board for restaurants with rooms, is stylish and comfortable. Room 3 where we stayed was one of four redesigned and refurbished rooms on the first floor. Decorated in natural tones – Farrow and Ball “Elephant’s breath” – with tree patterned heavy fabric curtains, the interior harmonised with the view of the valley outside. Spotlights and elegant bed side lighting gave a seductive glow. The super king sized bed, dressed in the finest linen, provided a most comfortable night’s sleep.

The new ensuite bathroom with spacious monsoon shower and large double ended bath was clearly designed for couples. Fluffy towels and bathrobes, and a heated towel rail, added to the sense of indulgent luxury.

Fresh milk with tea and coffee – including a cafetiere – home-made oatcakes, still and sparking mineral water, and Sedbergh natural organic toiletries showed pleasing attention to detail. The only suggestion for improvement, which can easily be rectified, would be a full length mirror. This minor shortcoming did not detract from a most agreeable stay in the peace and stillness of the Welsh countryside.

Guests come primarily to sample the acclaimed cooking of Chris Harrod, Chef Patron since October 2013. His unassuming and quietly spoken persona belies a strong passion and clear vision for the direction of his innovative cuisine. He succeeded the Michelin starred James Sommerlin but gained the same distinction in less than a year. Other awards now include three AA rosettes, 5/10 in the 2015 Good Food Guide – a notoriously hard marker –  and inclusion in Sawday’s and the Good Hotel Guides.

Inspired by the rural location, Chris’s “Valley on the Plate” cuisine reflects the natural surroundings. Blessed with the services of Henry, an expert forager, his findings from the valley floor are a distinctive and integral part of Chris’s dishes. Each presents a new challenge in matching them with the main ingredients, much of which is sourced locally. Dishes also showcase vegetables, many supplied by Amanda Stradling’s award winning company Veggie Galore in Ross of Wye. Nearby, Richard Vaughan’s Huntsham Farm is the key source for rare breed meats. Trealy Farm, the famous charcutier, supplies the applewood-smoked bacon used in a fish dish. Stout, used in the same dish, comes from Kingstone Brewery in Tintern. Fresh seafood arrives regularly from Cornwall. Given their impeccable quality and abundance, Chris’s ultimate aim is to use only British organic produce. Whilst this ambition might not apply equally to his wines, 40% are already organic.

The beauty of Chris’s cooking lies in the extraction of maximum flavour using both classical and contemporary techniques, including a restrained use of molecular gastronomy. A critical approach emphasising quality and freshness are fundamental prerequisites he learnt in the formative and inspirational three and a half years with Raymond Blanc, his chief mentor, at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons. Having sharpened his skill in a career embracing the acclaimed kitchens of the Lanesborough, L’Ortolan and Collette’s at the Grove, where he was head chef for five years, Chris now enjoys the creative freedom that comes from of being his own master.

Terse menu descriptions give no idea of the painstaking preparation, cooking techniques and exquisite presentation involved in each dish. Cuts of meat are not stipulated, allowing for versatile treatment of different parts from the whole animal and an element of surprise when served at the table. For example, a signature dish of suckling pig includes the herb and spice marinated shoulder cooked for two days in a water bath; a croquette of pig’s head; and the cutlet or saddle served with a golden celeriac puree.

The menu structure and price point are well-judged to suit all pockets. Three course set lunches at £24 on weekdays, £34 on Sundays are offered in addition to tasting menus: five courses for £45 at lunch – a bonus for those not staying the night – and seven courses for £65 at dinner. A £54 three course a la carte dinner menu has a limited choice from the more established dishes, making the tasting menu a more attractive proposition.

The recently refurbished lounge and dining room have an elegant feel and relaxed ambience.  A new laid oak floor, the natural colours in the décor and fabrics, large wooden framed mirrors and impressionistic landscapes by George Weissbort reflect the arborial landscape outside. The low beamed ceiling, small windows and spotlighting combine rustic with contemporary features, giving a cosy feel.  Candle lighting adds a romantic touch  – appealing to couples who form the majority of guests at The Whitebrook.

In summer, the decked terrace is ideal for pre-prandial drinks. Inside, the lounge features comfortable armchairs and sofas in coffee and cream. The three dining areas, decorated with paintings by local artists, have well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery and elegant leather chairs and paintings by local artists.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in early December, finding much to appreciate in the food, wine and service.
Canapes served with drinks fulfilled their purpose in exciting the palate: warm pheasant croquette with bread sauce burst with rich gaminess and rye crisp with pumpkin hummus and brassica flowers gave a colourful sweet and savoury hit.

An amuse bouche of broccoli comprised a velvety smooth mousse topped with al dente florets. The salty creaminess of local Perlass blue cheese lifted the dish and was balanced by the sweetness and crunch of caramelised walnuts. Extra foraged interest was provided a scattering of hedge bedstraw.

Roasting Jerusalem artichokes in a first course emphasised its sweet, nutty earthiness. The soft texture contrasted with crisp strands of its bark garnish. Goat’s curd gave a fresh, tangy flavour, and shavings of Wye Valley ewe’s cheese, acting almost as a seasoning, worked well with this humble yet adaptable vegetable. Blewits and wax cap mushrooms, yarrow leaves and pennywort, gave fungal and herbal complexity whilst the addition of roasted pine and pumpkin seeds gave aroma, crunch and a clean, subtly sweet nutty flavour. With its impeccable attention to detail and stunning presentation, this was a tour de force of modern vegetarian cookery. (Wine: Shoreline, 2014, Lyme Bay, Axminster, Devon, UK)

A second course juxtaposed the white and brown meat of utterly fresh Cornish crab. The sweetness of the white meat was balanced by the gentle pepperiness of charlock puree and mustard leaves. A foamed reduction flavoured with horseradish added another layer of flavour. The use of celeriac bark again demonstrated the chef’s imaginative use of the whole vegetable to add texture and flavour. This was another original dish in conception and execution.  (Wine: Vouvray Sec, 2014, Didier Champalou, Loire, France)

Precise timing of a breast of Brecon partridge rendered it tender and moist, whilst the leg benefitted from slower braising. Parsnip puree gave a sweet earthiness and baked apple an acidity, both of which complemented the gentle gaminess of the partridge. Quinoa added a light and nutty touch and burnt onion a smoky crispness. The dish was dressed with a baby parsnip cooked in the sweet fragrant leaves of Woodruff, and free corn garlic for a muted herbal note. (Wine: Brouilly,2013, Chateau du Pave, Beaujolais, France)

Pan roasting of a fillet of Cornish brill, producing a caramelised crust and translucent flakes of sweet, succulent flesh, demonstrated excellence in fish cookery. More robust but complementary flavours were provided by smoked bacon emulsion, onion puree, beer pickled onions, the mildly aniseed notes in caraway cabbage, and the horseradish taste of scurvy grass. Here was another dish, billed simply as Cornish Brill, caraway cabbage, smoked bacon, scurvy grass which belied the complexity of preparation and understatement of the ingredients: the onion puree had been cooked sous vide overnight with nutmeg; the bacon emulsion comprised half chicken stock and half milk into which the bacon was infused; and the charred baby onions, not even mentioned, had been picked in stout and apple balsamic. (Wine: Monte Velho Branco, 2014, Herdade do Esporado, Portugal)

A dish of local wild fallow deer was cooked medium rare to maximise its soft texture and rich gamey flavour. Home grown beets smoked with dried mugwort had both sweetness and herbal aroma. Celeriac puree with its mild, sweet nuttiness and a riot of wilted chard, kale and cavalo nero leaves completed this flavoursome and visually stunning composition. (Wine: Barbera d’Asti “La Court” Superiore, 2011 Michele Chiarlo, Piedmonte, Italy).

The kitchen’s skill and ingenuity do not flag at the dessert stage.

An iced roulade of blackcurrant and chamomile also featured crunchy “fizzy rocks” made from citric sugar to temper the inherent bitterness of blackcurrant sage. Paired with an inspired “cheeky Ribena cocktail” of local vodka, lemon juice and soda water, this was a refreshing and playful palate cleanser.

A dessert focusing on violet was both old fashioned its use of the flower and contemporary in its overall design and flavour. The firm, creamy parfait was scented but not overwhelmed by the floral fragrance – a difficult balancing act successfully achieved. Velvety smooth lemon thyme ice cream added a herbal note, contrasting with the sweetness of the parfait. Delightful miniature meringue “branches” flavoured with blueberries added crispness the dish needed.  (Wine: Noble Riesling, 2014, Framlingham Estate, Marlborough, New Zealand)

The final dish was a veritable masterclass of invention and technique, a brilliant marriage of tastes and textures. Delicately poached pears partnered with buttermilk ice cream were complemented by a yogurt crumble and maritime pine powder. This last element, based on a parsley stock syrup infused with pine needles, imparted an Alpine like fragrance and vivid colour, lifting the whole composition. Thin, crisp shards of meringue added height as if to resemble the peaks of a mountainous terrain of which the green of the pine powder were the lower slopes. (Wine: Blenheim Super Ice cider, 2011, Once Upon a Tree, Ledbury, UK)

Good coffee and petit fours – quince jelly and rosemary sugar and macaroons – completed a meal clearly worthy of a Michelin star. Our enjoyment was enhanced by welcoming and solicitous service of the young staff  who were fully briefed on the menu and answered questions in a knowledgeable way. Manager and sommelier Andy Stoneley matched wines with consummate skill and assurance. The paired wine service – timed before the arrival of each dish and with clear, brief descriptions devoid of the florid language encountered elsewhere – showed real professionalism.

Chris Harrod and his team have clearly made a strong impact since gaining a much deserved Michelin star.  Apart from a loyal local following, The Whitebrook attracts most of its guests from Bristol, Bath, Cheltenham, Birmingham, Cardiff, Hereford and even London, making it a destination restaurant.  Since the publication of the 2015 guide (in September 2014), the 32 cover dining room averages 20 diners each night, no mean achievement given its fairly isolated location in a secluded valley on an unnamed narrow and winding road off the A466.

And yet one feels that Chris Harrod is only in the early stages of his independent gastronomic journey. A sharp culinary intelligence with a true understanding of flavour, allied with a fertile imagination and inexhaustible energy will take him much further. We relish the prospect of a future visit and in the meantime will follow his career with interest, anticipating further acclaim from Michelin and other respected guides.

How rare is it for chefs to walk away from a restaurant that has just been awarded a Michelin Star? Yet this is what happened in January 2010 when head chef Ryan Simpson and sous chef Liam Trotman made national headlines by parting company with the owner of The Goose at Britwell Salome. It says much for their culinary integrity that they rejected the owner’s plans for the address and decided instead to pursue a path that had brought them success, star or no star: A path that married the concept of ‘fine-dining’ with the modern day desire for ‘accessibility’, in other words a welcoming gastronomic restaurant with ‘relaxed formality.’  The formula is clearly a success as after five years since the opening of Orwells, they continue to thrive, with 60% of diners at any one time being regulars. Recognised in major Guides, Orwells has achieved three AA rosettes, 6/10 in the Good Food Guide – a notoriously hard marker – and inclusion in its top 100 restaurants. In 2012, the same guide awarded it Readers’ Restaurant of the Year.

The traditional whitewashed walls of the original pub belie the smart contemporary interior. The long room, with space for a maximum of 45-50 covers has a low oak beamed ceiling and wooden floor. It offers  two dining areas, one brightly lit by the bar, the other at the far end being more cosy and subdued. Wall lighting, well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery and upholstered dining chairs make for refined and leisurely dining experience.

Front of House is led the engaging Kurt, Liam’s brother, who oversees service in a cheerful, welcoming and relaxed style. The young assistants are particularly well briefed on the components and preparation of each dish. The sommelier offers  knowledgeable advice as well as thinking, like the two chefs, outside the box for a more adventurous approach.

Ryan and Liam, with a team of four, have achieved a balanced division of labour, with Liam overseeing desserts whilst Ryan concentrates more on the savoury courses. Liam, a Liverpudlian by birth, started his career at the city’s famous 60 Hope Street restaurant before stints at Bovey Castle and Wintringham Fields, then finally joining Ryan at The Goose. At Orwells he also focuses on baking bread, (in which he offers popular classes in the restaurant’s kitchen), and growing vegetables in their smallholding in Lower Shiplake. Ryan served his culinary apprenticeship in France, overseen by such legends as the Troisgros family, Guy Savoy and Pierre Gagnaire. In England, he sharpened his skills in the kitchens of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Sketch, the Langham Hotel, Wintringham Fields and The Elephant in Torquay, before his appointment as head chef at The Goose, achieving a Michelin star after 18 months.

“Rural cooking with a modern approach” is how Ryan and Liam describe their food. “Rural” certainly reflects the restaurant’s location, surrounded by farmland at Shiplake Row, Binfield Heath in the south Oxfordshire countryside near Henley on Thames. More importantly, it captures the essence of their gastronomy, as seen in the essential rusticity of their dishes, a cuisine de terroir, embracing a real concern for sustainability and using the best local and seasonal produce.  With 75% of vegetables home grown, the production of their own honey, the baking of their own bread, and the future rearing of their own pigs, Ryan and Liam remain true to this philosophy. Pork is currently sourced from the Windsor estate and Tamworth, venison from the Chilterns and duck from Crediton in Devon.

Not that “rural” cooking means simple cooking. The understated dishes give little idea of the successive stages of preparation and execution in marrying flavours successfully. Scrambled egg in an amuse bouche is cooked in a water bath before being siphoned into an egg shell. The dashi for a halibut dish is made from the fish bones, kombu, shitake, scented with lemon grass then slightly reduced. True understanding of flavour is shown in the same dish where the umami taste is heightened with a garnish of crispy Hen of the Woods mushrooms and white truffle, both being rich in amino acids. There is also a dalliance with the ‘Heston-like’ concept of revisiting childhood in a top end dining setting, this best exemplified by Brown sauce ice cream, a partner for pig’s cheek, which was created by Ryan to remind him of the emulsified butter and brown sauce taste in a bacon sandwich.

Whilst due regard is paid to classical skills, a “modern approach” is clearly evident. Contemporary techniques are used for instance in the sous vide preparation of meat and fish and the aeration of chocolate. Unusual but compatible combinations  include lobster with capers and radish and scallops with chicken and leek. Stylish presentation, enhancing the finished product, is visible in the clean lines of uncrowded plates.

The sparsely worded menus at Orwells are ingredient led with no indication of cooking method or cut of meat, giving an element of surprise at the table. The carte offers a choice of six dishes in each course with a well-judged price point. Mains, apart from Highland Wagyu beef at £34) average £25 , starters £11 and desserts £9. A six course tasting menu at £69 with an optional £40 wine flight is the best way to sample the delights on offer.  A set dinner with a choice of three dishes is a remarkable £24.95 for three courses, £19.95 for two. An impressive all British cheese menu comprises well known favourites including Stinking Bishop and Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire along with more obscure varieties such as Tornegus.

Fine Dining Guide visited Orwells on a week day evening in early December, finding much to admire in the food and service.

Warm breads rolls, with their crisp crusts and soft crumb were impressive. In particular the Wessex Cobber was rich and malty and the Red Leicester so buttery it could easily have passed  for a brioche

A playful amuse bouche, English Breakfast, presented in a egg shell resting on hay, featured creamy aerated scrambled egg and tiny cubes of black pudding and bacon.  A hint of white truffle lifted this simple yet memorable opener.

An element of theatre was provided by a signature starter of Smoked Pork. Served in a bell jar infused with a gentle smoke, the lifted dome released an ashen cloud masking a caramelised pig’s cheek of burnished mahogany. This delectable porcine morsel was succulent and meltingly delicious. Brown sauce ice cream added a luscious piquancy which cut the richness of the meat, whilst celeriac and carrot ribbons gave an autumnal garnish of earthy crispness. Overall, this brilliantly conceived dish was a visual triumph of aroma, taste, texture and temperature.

By contrast, a crab starter was delicate and light. The freshly prepared white meat, bound by a light herb mayonnaise, was dressed with paper thin tuiles of the brown meat and dried slices of cauliflower florets. A dressing of grapefruit provided the tart acidity which the dish needed.

An intermediate course saw king scallops precisely seared to produce a caramelised crust and sweet, succulent flesh. Partnered with a rich and creamy risotto flavoured with white chocolate and white truffle, the balance of savoury and sweet flavours, with the heady, musty fragrance of the fungi, were well judged.

Breast of Creedy Carver duck for a main course was cooked sous vide to maximise its firm texture and rich, full flavour. Meltingly soft shredded confit leg meat provided a contrasting texture whilst the duck skin, served as crisp shards helped to offset the fattiness of the meat. Caramelised squash added an element of sweetness and salsify and pearl barley gave earthy flavour and contrasting texture.  Finally, this composite plate was brought together by a light but intense duck jus.

Precise timing did full justice to a generous fillet of halibut, the flavour of the meaty, translucent flesh being allowed to sing. Contrasting texture and umami flavour were provided by crisp Hen of the Woods mushroom, cabbage leaves and dashi. White truffle enhanced but did not overpower this impressive main course of four elements, which proved the principle that less can be more.

Desserts did not prove an anti-climax, as can so often be the case in high end restaurants.

A Trio of Chocolate showed technical skill and culinary invention. It featured white, dark and milk varieties layered in a rich but light mousse topped with a thin caramelised tuile and aerated milk chocolate.  Peanut butter ice cream of velvety smoothness worked well with the other elements, with a scattering of toasted nuts gave a necessary crunch.

The recommended wine pairing of Frangelico hazelnut liqueur proved a perfect match for this decadent dessert.

Equally accomplished was the Raspberry mille feuille of thin, crisp Arlette pastry sandwiching well flavoured vanilla crème patissiere and fresh berries at room temperature. An intense pistachio ice cream and scattering of the chopped nuts gave contrasting colour, temperature and texture, whilst aerated white chocolate and raspberry coulis provided  a final flourish.

Good coffee with well-crafted passion fruit jellies, lemon meringue macaroons, chocolate truffles, peanuts and caramel completed a memorable meal.

Clearly, Ryan and Liam have an inexhaustible energy and creative drive that have bought them well deserved accolades for their inventive cuisine. Why they have not received a coveted star remains a mystery and is Michelin’s loss. Surely, it can only be a matter of time before they achieve this award.  Fine Dining Guide thoroughly enjoyed its visit to Orwells, will definitely visit again, and will watch its progress with interest.

Although the quality of food served in pubs has improved beyond all recognition over the last 30 years, eating in them can still be an unpredictable affair: At one extreme they might appeal to the lowest common denominator – offering unexciting, unchanging menus, at the other they may aim for more adventurous cuisine well beyond the capacity of chefs to execute them well.

Getting the balance between traditional fare and a more modern approach, with level of skill and a price point to match, has become increasingly difficult to achieve.

The Fox and Goat, a pub with rooms in Tiddington, has cracked this elusive formula. Located on the A418 off junction 8a of the M40, it is ideally placed for those who seek freshly cooked, good value food whilst avoiding the inflated prices encountered in the quaint market town of Thame or among the dreaming spires of Oxford.

The exterior is typical of hundreds of pubs across the country: Two levels with shuttered windows, whitewashed walls and an entrance porch.  Inside, however, there is a cleaner, fresher look than that encountered in similar establishments, the result of a refurbishment a year ago. The oak beamed, low ceiling’d room with a floor of Indian stone is tastefully decorated and well lit.  Large oak tables (with an eclectic collection of chairs) are well spaced, whilst an inglenook fireplace with wood burning stove give that classic feel, especially appealing on cold winter evenings.

Manager Doug Sheard oversees a dining room of 44 covers with 12 more in the bar area. Service is young and welcoming, with Ryan, who served us, being engaging and helpful without being intrusive.

Chef Meredydd Stables offers, where possible, locally sourced ingredients. Steaks, for instance, come from A&M Butchers in Worminghall, and herbs from the kitchen garden. The late Autumn menu pleasingly featured an abundance seasonal fruit and vegetables.

The dishes on offer are a mixture of pub classics, sandwiches, steaks, sharing dishes – Meaty, Veggie and Fishy – for two or four, and a selection of Carte starters and mains with international influences. Although there is an extensive choice, there is neither over-ambition nor pretension.

Portions are generous and prices fair indeed. Most dinner starters are under £6, mains average £14, and pub classics such as beer battered fish and chips or F&G Beefburger average £10.95. The most expensive dish is an 8oz Sirloin steak at £18.95.

A slightly more limited choice at lunch sees five starters all under £6; five mains all under £15; and four desserts all under £6. Perhaps best value of all is a set menu costing £13.25 for two courses.

Sunday lunch has proved especially popular with roasts and a range of dishes from the weekly menu

The select wine list, with a balance of Old and New Worlds is another set of bargains, with ungreedy mark ups. A 2014 Pinot Grigio and a 2013 Australian Merlot are keenly priced at £15.50 per bottle. At the higher end, a bin end Puligny-Montrachet 2012 is £58, or a Louis Jadot, Mersault 2012 at £60.

Free bread is becoming a rarity among pub restaurants, so the varieties offered must be of good quality to justify the cost. The grilled garlic Ciabatta we sampled before the first course was satisfyingly warm, crisp, soft and not too pungent.

A starter of Mini beef Kofta was anything but small with spicing well judged which enhanced rather than overpowered the meat. The skewered minced beef was accurately timed on the griddle, producing a rich crust and succulent interior.  Roasted pumpkin seeds added a nutty smokiness whilst beetroot cream gave a rich sweetness to this Middle Eastern inspired dish. Overall, it would have benefitted from a less bland couscous and a hit of citrus to lift the flavours.

Beetroot appeared in a salad of Capricorn goat’s cheese, where it acted as a sweet foil to the warm, creamy tanginess of the cheese. Pine nuts gave texture and watercress salad added a fresh, peppery note which balanced the dish well.

Braised pork belly was an accomplished, attractively presented main course. Long slow cooking had produced meltingly succulent meat and a blast of heat gave crisp, thin crackling. The richness of the meat was offset by cubes of roasted root vegetables which gave sweetness and contrasting texture. Red cabbage and apple sauce added a degree of acidity the dish needed.  Although a quenelle of celeriac mash lacked the nutty, mild celery taste of this underrated vegetable, it did not detract from the overall success of this course which was finished with a rich jus which brought the elements together. This proved greater than sophisticated comfort food.

Another hearty main course was a flavoursome 8oz Sirloin steak, precisely grilled to a medium rare and properly rested. The rich peppercorn sauce, served separately, had a moderate heat and smooth texture.  Chunky fries, watercress salad, and grilled tomato proved well executed, traditional accompaniments.

For dessert, a Plum Bakewell had thin, crisp shortcrust pastry and a deep layer of moist almond sponge. Spiced plum compote proved a delicious autumnal accompaniment, although the dish might have benefited from more vanilla ice cream to balance the large helping of tart.

Another dessert featured a well-executed chocolate ganache tart, the richness of which was cut by cherries and a fragrant pistachio ice cream. Crushed salted pistachios gave texture and crunch. Aesthetically, this composition might have been better served on a white plate rather than on slate, allowing the glorious colours to shine.

Overall, we enjoyed the food and service at The Fox and Goat and will return in the summer to eat in the garden, sampling some of its sharing plates, pub classics or speciality sandwiches. In the meantime Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.