KORA in Bruntsfield is the latest of Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s restaurants in Edinburgh. It has arisen Phoenix-like from the ashes of Southside Scran, their popular brasserie which was forced to close due to major plumbing problems, not of its own making, then crucially by the Covid epidemic.
Named after the Greek Goddess of Spring and new beginnings, KORA’s design has a more Nordic feel with its wooden floors, exposed brickwork, and pastel green walls. Nevertheless, it retains some of the features of its predecessor – the split-level areas, the brass rails and screens, and the cosy dining booths.
True to Tom’s “Nature-to-plate” mantra, seasonal Scottish produce is employed in a wide range of inventive, reworked classic a la carte and weekend brunch dishes. Menu descriptions emphasise the provenance of key ingredients. Pricing is competitive, even more so given the impeccable quality of the produce and the skill in cooking.
11 Bar snacks from £3.50 to £8 feature pork scratchings from Tomlinson’s farm with rhubarb puree, pork rillettes, oysters, and even Caviar for £60!
Seven starters from £9.50 to £23 include Hand dived Orkney scallops a la Grenobloise or warm pressed haggis terrine with neeps and tatties
Eight mains, £18- to £33, comprise three vegetarian dishes, two fish and three meat options These range from roasted cauliflower steak, through to Newhaven seasonal fish and shellfish soup and braised Highland Wagyu shin with KORA Caesar salad
Six Brunch items from £7.50 to £18 include Omelette Arnold Bennett with Welch’s smoked haddock, and Mull Cheddar Welsh rarebit, both served with Koffmann’s skinny fries.
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Fine Dining Guide visited on a Friday lunchtime to sample dishes from the a la carte and brunch menus. A vividly coloured frozen sea buckthorn margarita cocktail proved wonderfully refreshing in its fruity tartness.
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From the bar snack selection, tender florets of broccoli tempura had an ethereally light, translucent batter with a well- balanced spicy Asian dip.
A main course of Castle game Sika deer was a masterclass in game and pastry cooking. A delicate, burnished dome of light buttery puff pastry – with no soggy bottom! – was crammed with tender, flavoursome braised shoulder and leg meat. Alongside were two precisely timed and rested pink slices of roasted loin, succulent in flavour and almost melting in texture. Garnished with Free Company beetroot which added the required earthy note, and brought together by a rich red wine jus, this was accomplished cooking of the highest order.
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A simple, yet truly indulgent dessert comprised warm, light and fluffy mini doughnuts with separate pots of chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream. Service was welcoming and informative, a feature of all of Tom Kitchin’s restaurants. Hastyn who looked after my table was particularly helpful in guiding my choices. Given more time, more dishes would have been sampled, but that will be for a future visit to which we look forward.
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