Chiswick and the area around Turnham Green offer a plethora of choice when it comes to middle-priced dining. The High Road is littered with the predictable and rather tired chains, offering a mediocre quality such that one could hardly claim a bounty of bistros. For this reason Charlotte’s Bistro is a very welcome addition to the otherwise lacklustre crown of middle-priced establishments.

Charlotte’s Bistro opened its doors in February 2010 on the site of a former Fishworks restaurant; two minutes walk from Turnham Green station. Over the last few years the team at Charlotte’s Bistro have acquired a fiercely loyal local following.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Monday evening. Expecting this to be a quieter night for any establishment, we were impressed by the buzz, with over 40 of the 56 covers taken. There was also a sizeable crowd around the bar area.

It is perhaps not surprising that the team behind Charlotte’s Bistro have had such success in a relatively short space of time. The pedigree has been long established, with over 27 years experience of delivering quality at one of Ealing’s best-loved establishments, Charlotte’s Place. The formula has been expertly tweaked to meet the evident gap in the Chiswick market.

We arrived slightly too late to enjoy the Monday night gin school, a regular feature for July and August. Thankfully we were not too late to sample the 6 O’clock Gin, a brilliantly balanced Gin produced by Bramley and Gage in Thornbury, Gloucestershire.

Gin is a staple of the drinks menu, with lots of exciting choices to perfect the staple Gin and Tonic. There’s also an attractive selection of Gin Cocktails. We decided to partake of the Charlotte’s Cup (a house variation on Pimms) and the intriguingly named Bowler Hat Trick (gin with fresh melon juice) whilst pondering the food menu.

The restaurant itself is compact, yet comfortable. On acquiring the site, the current team covered the outdoor dining area with a large glass roof. This gives the best of both worlds, with a light airy dining space protected from the elements. The furnishings are simple, yet comfortable and in keeping with the Bistro feel.

The Menu offers a good variety and is reasonably priced. There are six or seven options for each course, with prices £24.95 for two course or £29.95 for three. This is even better value for those dining Monday-Friday lunchtimes with the same menu at £15.95 or £18.95. The wine list offers similar excellent value and has been expertly compiled, with wines by the glass and bottle. We sampled a Pinot Noir, Johanneshof-Reinisch (Austria), which at £38 felt like an absolute steal.

For the first course we both opted for fish. The potted salmon was delicately flavoured with the classic accompaniment of dill and was generously portioned in a rustic glass jar. The accompanying soda bread was dark and nutty and offered in ample quantity. The construction of the Whitebait brought new life to a much hackneyed dish. The fish was accompanied by a tangy and pungent garlic mayonnaise and balanced off with diced lemon flesh and croutons. Alternatives to start with included a terrine and soup.

The value for money offered by the menu is most evident in the selection of main courses, especially given the quality of ingredients and expert cooking in evidence from Head Chef Alan Barrins and his team. Side dishes such as buttered greens and Hand Cut Chips are extra at £3.50 a piece, but this is hardly expensive by comparison to some of the competition.

The braised short rib of Ruby Red Beef was an absolute delight, meltingly tender and cooked to perfection. The accompanying Heritage Tomato and Bread Salad was fresh and herbaceous with a subtle hint of basil pesto. The Chips were fat and crispy and incredibly moreish, a good accompaniment to both of the main courses. Our other choice was the crispy Creedy duck leg, again very tender, indeed, the epitome of a well-executed confit.

The dessert menu offered an array of classic bistro fare with a seasonal twist. The raspberry sorbet combined a velvety texture with intense flavour, nicely balanced with homemade butter biscuits. The Cranachan, which seemed to have great promise, was the only disappointment of the evening. The proportions of cream and raspberries were out of balance and the surfeit of cream and lacked booziness. Nevertheless, there were many enticing alternatives, including a very tempting vanilla cheesecake with seasonal berries. Cheese was another alternative available for a small supplement of £3.

With a good range of reasonably priced dessert wines and liqueurs to finish things off, the only question we were left with was why, considering the excellent quality and keen pricing, do others still choose mediocrity when there’s an option like Charlotte’s Bistro?

Postscript: Charlotte’s Bistrot rebranded Charlotte’s W4 (April 2015)

Bucking the current trend of large, brasserie style openings, Five Fields sees a welcome return to a more modest scale of sophisticated dining. The restaurant takes its name from that part of Chelsea and Belgravia recorded in the 18^th century by cartographer John Rocque. Despite its affluent SW3 postcode, in an area replete with ladies who lunch, it is, strangely enough, only open for dinner.

Discretely located in Blacklands Terrace, just off the Sloane Square end of the King’s Road, its modest canopied entrance belies the sumptuousness of the space within.  Considerable outlay by chef-proprietor Taylor Bonnyman, (late of the 2 Michelin starred Corton in New York), has produced another triumph of Robert Angell design. The intimacy of 40 cover dining room is emphasised the low, sunken panelled ceiling which adds structure and visual weight to balance the lime oaked floor. A tiled cocoa plant motif in green and white shares space with hessian covered walls in shades beige, well positioned mirrors and selected pieces of modern painting and sculpture. Cream coloured shutters cover the sash windows. Clever spotlighting and low lit chandeliers shaped like sugar molecules illuminate well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery.  The light brown leather chairs, however, have backs which slope back too much, making them slightly uncomfortable. Nevertheless, the overall effect is one of classical elegance balanced by contemporary chic.

Those leading the kitchen and front of house teams – up to 11 in each case – have impeccable pedigrees. Head chef Margueritte Keogh refined her shills in the ultra-demanding kitchens of Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley; pastry chef Chris Underwood and head sommelier Nicolas Arthuis  have worked with Tom Aikens; and restaurant manager Matthew Widdowson oversaw the celebrated bar at Bluebird in the King’s Road.

Their combined efforts have produced an exceptional dining experience.  The professional service in many ways is old school – and there is nothing wrong with that –with smartly suited staff who are well informed, yet friendly and unintimidating.

The cooking is unashamedly complex and multi layered and, although they do not like to use the term, is fine dining in the best sense of the word. Invention – tempered with a clear sense of balance in terms of taste, texture, temperature and presentation characterise the style. Timing is precise and assured in order to maximise flavour. Various labour intensive techniques are employed, both classical and contemporary. Purees, gels, powders, crumbs and granites appear on many dishes , although there is a refreshing lack of (often tasteless) foams. Prime ingredients are mainly British, many coming from the restaurant’s own gardens in East Sussex. Indeed, vegetables and herbs share the limelight equally with meat, fish and even sweet components on a well-judged seasonal menu.  Descriptions of the six starters, six mains and five desserts are understated. Flavour combinations such as veal sweetbreads with gooseberries, lemon sole with green apple, beef short rib with cherries and smoked ricotta and cep sponge with blood peach will surprise but not disappoint most diners. Presentation is exquisite, whether on slate, glass or porcelain, in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Fine Dining Guide visited Five Fields on a weekday evening in July and found much to admire in the food and service

An immediate good impression was made by a selection of canapés. These included crudités with houmous which showcased some of the wonderfully sweet young summer vegetables from the restaurant’s Sussex farm. Cucumber filled with curry paste was both refreshing and gently warming. Gougeres were crisp and well flavoured with a soft cheese filling. Finally, rolled salt beef with mustard mayo and walnut pain perdu were both accomplished in their taste and texture.

An amuse bouche of Gazpacho with pickled watermelon and basil oil was an interesting take on the classic but needed more seasoning to bring out its full flavour. This was a slight blemish which did not affect the overall success of the meal.

Wheat germ sourdough, olive and Campaillou breads were all well executed in their firm crumb and crisp crusts.

A suitably light starter of quail exhibited the positive qualities of sous-vide cooking – producing soft, tender meat – before being finished a la plancha to add colour and flavour. Heritage tomatoes, aubergine and celery with a ponzu dressing served not as mere garnishes but added textural substance and temperature balance. (Wine: Marsannay, Echezots, Domaine Jean Fournier, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France 2008)

A seafood starter – Rock Pool – was served in two stages at different temperatures with two different wines. First came oyster tartare perched on a Bloody Mary granite which together produced a vibrant taste and texture sensation.

Paired with this was a mini tower of herbed Devon crab topped with caviar and served on nashi pear, a savoury and sweet combination that worked surprisingly well. (Wine: Montlouis Sec, Les Dix Arpents, Domaine de la Tailleaux Loups, Loire Valley, France 2009)

The warm elements of this playful, imaginative dish comprised a beautifully fresh langoustine on peach confit and seared squid with chorizo powder and green tomato. Again, these two unusual combinations – perhaps the first going a little too far – excited the palate in what was a tour de force of creativity and visually stunning presentation. (Wine: Joshu Rubaiyat, Marufuji Winery, Katsunama , Japan, 2011)

A main course of roasted Cornish turbot was exactly timed to preserve the delicate flavour and firm texture this luxurious fish. Baby courgettes and pine nut crumb provided texture whilst Green olive jus, fragrant basil and gentle, smoky aubergine puree added intense but not overwhelming adornments.(Wine: Viogner, Cristom Vinyard, Eloa – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2009)

Suckling pig five ways included succulent slices of loin and leg, tiny riblets, a well-executed ballotine of shoulder and crisp crackling. The star of the show was undoubtedly the cromesqui of head and neck meat which simply melted in the mouth. Given the sweetness of the pork, the smoked potato and nettle puree accompaniments were a suitable foil to balance the overall richness of the dish.  (Wine: Zweigelt, Anton Bauer, Wagram, Austria, 2010)

A trio of artisan cheeses included Waterloo from Berkshire and Gubbeen from Ireland. Sourced from top cheese supplier La Fromagerie, they were all in prime condition.  (Wine: Pineau de Charentes  Blanc, Chateau de Beaulon, Charentes, 10 year old, France NV)

Given the strength of savoury courses in many restaurants, desserts are often an anti-climax, but not at Five Fields. Indeed, some of the boldest invention and consummate skill are to be seen here.

For instance, cep sponge and yellow blood peach balanced earthy fungal qualities with the sweetness of the fruit and the richness of butterscotch praline ice cream. (Wine: Moscato d’Asti DOCG, G.D Vajra, Piedmont, Italy)

Pea and mint cassonade was sweet and herby, but not excessively so. Chocolate “soil” provided texture and velvety smooth coconut sorbet gave it a refreshing finish. (Wine: Moscato d’Asti DOCG, G.D Vajra, Piedmont, Italy)

Good coffee and petit fours – passion fruit marshmallows, banoffee truffles and macaroons completed a memorable meal, enhanced by a flight of expertly chosen wines. Head sommelier Nicolas Arthuis amply demonstrated his extensive knowledge, skill and passion in pairing wine with a wide selection of dishes. His choice of French and Japanese dry whites for the seafood starter did full justice to the cold and warm elements. Equally impressive were the Austrian red, the smoky nose and cherry notes of which went well with the suckling pig, and the citrus bouquet and crisp minerality of the Viogner that complemented to turbot.

Five Fields has clearly made an impressive start. One can understand why it is not open for lunch, given its limited size and the intensity of operation at dinner. (Lunch is available on Saturdays and only in the Rocque private dining room with a maximum 10 covers.) Nevertheless, there is still a market for this high end cuisine, service and surroundings, as witnessed by a fully booked restaurant on a weekday evening. As the current preference for so called “relaxed” dining with uncomplicated cuisine fades – as do all trends – so the appeal of serious cooking in a fine dining environment, epitomised by Five Fields, will revive. We will watch its progress with interest.

My first visit to The Royal Garden Hotel was on the evening of Wednesday 3^rd September, 1997. As with thousands of others, I had come to see the spectacular array of floral tributes arranged in Kensington Gardens after the death of Diana, Princess of Wales. Unable to get anywhere near the main display, I decided to have dinner in The Tenth,  a traditional British restaurant  named after its location on the top floor of the hotel, where I knew I would get an uninterrupted aerial view of flowers. As dusk turned to darkness, numerous candlelit vigils for the “People’s Princess” illuminated the gardens in an almost surreal, magical way.

Now, almost 16 years later, I was visiting the Royal Garden not for the view but to sample food at Min Jiang, the modern, high end Chinese restaurant which replaced The Tenth over five years ago. Not that the magnificent view is an unimportant reason for its current popularity. Indeed, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park and the changing London skyline, from the City’s tower blocks and The Shard to Canary Warf, can be seen in all their glory.

Unlike other high end Chinese restaurants, Min Jiang actually looks and feels like a restaurant. Running the whole length of the tenth floor, the bar and dining room, each occupying roughly half the penthouse like space, have a light, airy feel, in stark contrast to the dark nightclub atmosphere of certain others in this bracket.

The décor and furnishings work well with the linear shape of the room. Stone tiled floors, spot lit low ceilings, red walls and slated partitions are enhanced by an array of blue and white Chinese vases on dark mahogany display units. Low backed armchairs and banquettes in the bar give a relaxed, comfortable feel. In the restaurant, well-spaced tables dressed with fine napery, and elegant beige chairs in give a more formal, but no less inviting, ambience.

All this is a suitable backdrop to the superb food offered by Min Jiang. Named after the Sichuan’s Min river, it has older sister restaurants in Singapore, the first having opened in the 1930s. The menu adopts a less heavy, more refined Singaporean style of cooking with influences from various Chinese regions, notably Sichuan, Shanghai and Beijing. Precision in timing, freshness of ingredients and balance of tastes and textures characterise this sophisticated level of cooking. The embarrassment of riches, both from the lunchtime Dim Sum menu to the evening carte, make it hard for the diner to choose.

Happily, the evening menu includes a steamed dim sum platter which formed the first course of our magnificent feast. Eight generously filled dumplings had light, translucent wrappings – the acid test for a skilled dim sum chef. Although the Har Kau was exceptional with its wonderfully fresh prawn filling, other varieties filled with scallop, mushroom or pumpkin also delighted the palate.

A signature starter of Bi Feng Tang soft shell crabs were deep fried in a light batter and remarkably free of grease. The soft, warm flesh of the crab and beautifully crisp coating – given an added kick by the chilli and garlic –  proved a deliciously moreish combination.

Jasmine ribs had a soft texture, produced by boiling before roasting, and a gentle smokiness which lifted the hoi sin coating. A layer of roasted sesame seeds added flavour and gave a delightful textural contrast.

Next came the highlight of the meal – Beijing duck – the quality of which has yet to be surpassed in any London restaurant. The several stages of preparation, including immersing in boiling water, loosening the skin, drying and glazing before roasting in a wood fired oven, produce a glossy, lacquered bird with mahogany, glass like skin. The presentation involves a brilliant piece of restaurant theatre, with the chef deftly carving thin slices of skin and flesh from the whole bird at the table.

With instructions to eat in three stages, we began by dipping the crispy skin in granulated sugar. This rich combination of fatty sweetness proved decadently sublime. Next we used the light, delicate, steamed pancakes to construct our own wraps from slices of the soft, well flavoured breast meat and skin arranged of a platter in neat, overlapping rows. Whilst the conventional garnishes of plum sauce, shredded leek and cucumber were as familiarly delicious as ever, we were more impressed by the alternative trio of garlic paste, radish and Tientsin (pickled) cabbage. These gave a more complex, robust addition to the rich, tender meat.

Finally, we were served the remaining meat with stir fried noodles. This was the only undistinguished part of the whole meal, pleasant enough, but with no wow factor. One of four options it was probably the least exciting, so perhaps we should have chosen Option 1, spicy minced duck with a lettuce wrap or Option 2, salted vegetable soup with duck and tofu.

From the main course dishes we had to try the roasted Alaskan black cod fillet. This signature dish more than lived up to expectations. The soft, velvety texture and rich succulent flavour of the pure white fillet proved a melt in the mouth sensation. The rich sweet soy based glaze contrasted with the Sha Cha sauce with its combination of garlic, chilli, shallots and dried shrimp. Adorned with crisp, deep fried leeks, the fish was garnished with Cloud ear mushrooms which gave an earthy flavour and chewy texture.

Sichuan double cooked pork belly, thinly sliced, was both tender and crisp, the result of gentle simmering and intense stir frying. Black bean, chilli bean, and sweet bean additions were well balanced giving a salty, sweet and spicy flavour, whilst Chinese leek added an extra herby dimension to the dish.

Instead of the ubiquitous baby pak choi, we decided on Choi sum with oyster sauce. The perfectly cooked stems, glistening with a dressing of sesame oil, comprised a fabulous vegetable dish.

For rice, we chose the egg white fried rice with blue swimmer crab and asparagus. These elements combined well, but might have benefited with some extra seasoning, although this is a minor quibble in a succession of dazzling courses.

Too full to attempt the richer desserts, we opted for a trio of sorbets – guava, rhubarb and praline – all well flavoured with a velvety texture. In future visits – for no doubt we will be back – we might try one of the interestingly sounding fusion desserts such as Sichuan pancake with vanilla ice cream or vanilla panna cotta with candied hazelnut and kumquat puree.

In addition to frequently refreshed Jasmine tea, the sommelier chose an excellent Gewürztraminer, the highly perfumed aromas and exotic fruit qualities of which married well with the richness of the food.

Other aspects of the meal were also commendable. Service from the smart, liveried front of house staff was welcoming, informative and attentive, without being intrusive or overbearing. Wei Chun Lee, assistant restaurant manager, was a lively, engaging host.

Overall, dining at Min Jiang was a real joy, as witnessed by the exciting buzz of a packed restaurant on a weekday evening in July.  Clearly, it has made its mark on the high end Chinese restaurant scene. Already the proud owner of three AA rosettes, it can only be a matter of time before Michelin assesses its worthy merits. In terms of food and service, it can more than hold its own against its main competitors; but in terms of location and views it outclasses them. Fine-Dining-Guide will watch Min Jiang’s progress with interest.

The current trend towards more casual, informal dining has now embraced one of the bastions of grand hotel formality – The Savoy River Restaurant. Renamed Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill after the hotel’s celebrated resident cat, it now offers all day dining from a contemporary menu featuring the delights of land and sea.

The décor, furniture and fittings of the dining room, however, are anything but casual in style and appearance. In keeping with the Savoy’s reputation for opulence and luxury, black marble floor and walls, large mirrors and brass railings give a sleek and glossy finish. The silver leaf ceiling accentuates the art deco theme. Undressed tables – perhaps the most obvious salute to casual dining – are large and well-spaced, whilst seating of leather banquettes and chairs in ocean blue give a modern, sophisticated feel.

At the centre of the room is the magnificent circular oyster bar distinguished by its “James Bond” style extending tables and the fish like Murano glass pendants glittering from the ceiling. The bread and cheese area, with its attractive displays from the in-house bakery, is another pleasing feature of the remodelled room.

Head Chef James Pare indulges his passion for seafood by offering a wide selection of fish and shellfish. A choice of five smoked fish includes the unusual hot smoked sable fish with paprika, whilst beetroot halibut and star anise salmon feature amongst the cured varieties. Shellfish is offered in abundance, whether in poached lobster with garlic mayonnaise as a starter, prawns in an Indonesian salad, or in the signature Kaspar’s lobster club sandwich. Most glorious of all are the platters of fruits de mer featuring poached prawns, seasonal oysters, seared scallops and crab, the Royal version including lobster. Fresh fish feature in a starter of yellow fine tuna tartare and mains ranging monkfish kebabs to Thai green seafood curry.

Burgers, steaks, salads and pasta dishes are amongst the non-piscine choices which also include those brasserie classics, snails with herb butter and steak tartare. Clearly this is a menu to satisfy all tastes and preferences, from the grandest to more humble offerings. The brigade of 21 chefs, cooking for up to 300 covers a day, is clearly well prepared for the range of dishes.

Chef James Pare stresses the importance of good sourcing as fundamental to the success of the menu. Seafood deliveries occur six times a week: scallops and lobsters from Scotland; crabs and sole from Cornwall.  The Cheese Cellar supplies mainly British artisan cheeses with some French classics. His primary aim is customer satisfaction through consistency in the quality of cooking. Whilst 30% of diners are staying at the hotel, there is considerable walk-in trade which he wants to maintain with his wide ranging menu. The smoked sand shrimp and eel cocktail, snails, fish bar items and the lobster sour dough club sandwich have proved early best sellers.

Fine Dining Guide visited Kaspar’s for dinner in mid May.

The sour dough and baguettes offered were accomplished in their crisp crusts and firm crumb.

Snails, served in a cast iron dish rather than in their individual shells, were plump, soft and well flavoured. They would have been even better if more parsley was added to the garlic butter to give that aromatic persillade touch.

Seared scallops were accurately timed to produce a caramelised crust and delicate, translucent flesh. The accompanying tomato verbena jam was beautifully balanced in its sweet and acidic qualities which complemented the seafood perfectly.

Royal fruits de mer, sheer heaven for seafood lovers, was served on a magnificent platter of ice, in classic brasserie style. The poached lobster, so often overcooked to resemble cotton wool in even the best restaurants, retained its soft, sweet succulence. The claw meat, extracted from its shell in one piece, partnered a seared scallop and white crab meat, all exemplary in taste and texture. Crevettes were plump and not too salty, as can often be the case. A minor disappointment were the oysters which were served minus their natural juices, making them easier to eat but less enjoyable, despite the shallot vinegar and Tabasco condiments. It was pleasing, however, to see a choice of mayonnaise and Marie Rose sauce, both well made, and lemon halves properly wrapped in muslin.

In the old River Restaurant, a whole grilled Dover sole would have been filleted at the table in typical Gueridon fashion. Here, it was branded and taken apart in the kitchen, making it diner friendly but taking way some of the joy of restaurant theatre. That said, this king of fish was perfectly cooked, its firm texture and distinct flavour being enhanced by a classic garnish of beurre noisette spiked with capers.

A platter of three artisan cheeses, all in perfect condition, was enjoyed with quince jelly and grapes.

A choice of nine desserts includes British and French classics such as sticky toffee pudding and apple tarte tatin. A reinvention of Peach Melba, in the form of an ice cream sandwich, might fit the casual dining theme but did not do justice to this iconic dessert.  Much better was the Valrhona manjari chocolate sphere – destroyed when a warm passion fruit sauce is poured over it.

Service is young, solicitous and well managed. The wine list comprises more Old World than New, with some good value bottles and others in line with the Savoy tradition! The enthusiastic sommelier Aristotle suggested an exquisite white burgundy  – Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007 Bertrand Ambroise – which partnered the seafood wonderfully.

Overall, The Savoy deserves to succeed in its new, ground breaking, venture. Trying to satisfy a wide variety of tastes in an all-day offering has its potential disadvantages, but this is what the market increasingly wants and the hotel is moving with the times. We shall watch its progress with interest.

The return of Eric Chavot to the London dining scene was an eagerly anticipated event. This veteran of the kitchens of Pierre Koffman, Raymond Blanc, Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White  established  his own restaurant, Interlude de Chavot in 1995, gaining a Michelin star within a year. His subsequent career at the Capital Hotel, culminated in the award of two Michelin stars which he held for nine years. Private service in Florida for the Weston family who own Selfridges, and an intense two months at Pierre Koffmann’s pop up restaurant on the roof of the same store, were a prelude to the opening of his eponymous brasserie in March 2013

Not that “brasserie” does full justice to the setting and décor of his new operation. The Mayfair location, in what used to be the Gallery restaurant of the Westbury Hotel, exudes glamour and sophistication. The exquisite Italian mosaic floor, 18^th century gold chandeliers and classical columns,  juxtaposed with art deco styling, typify a grand, fine dining venue. The partitions separating the long line of tables and tall dark red banquettes and tchairs  along one side of the narrow room have a pleasing effect. Opposite, the mirrored walls are broken by the addition of elegant shelving. The small lounge bar  near the entrance is balanced by the long food bar at the far end, where cold starters and shellfish are prepared within view of appreciative diners.

Nor can the cooking be called typical brasserie fare. True, Eric Chavot has returned to a more homely, rustic style, reminiscent of the gutsy, bold flavoured cuisine of his native South West France, a sharp contrast to the haute cuisine of most of his former restaurants. But his style is far from typical, the dishes bearing his personal imprint notably in the timing, composition, saucing, garnishing, and presentation. His passion is shown in the provenance of  impeccable quality ingredients and in the skilful execution of seemingly simple dishes that nevertheless require the chef to be at the top of his craft.

The menu of classic and contemporary dishes allows a fair degree of choice without being so extensive as to undermine consistency. 11 starters include favourites such as charcuterie and steak tartare and more modern dishes such as scallop ceviche and soft shell crab. Similarly, main courses range from choucroute garnie to tiger prawn with chickpea and chorizo. The choice of desserts such as profiteroles or crème brulee is more conservative but no less inviting.

Aperitifs include the popular Pineau des Charentes, Lillet and Ricard whilst the largely French wine list gives many options by the glass, pichet or carafe.

Fine Dining Guide visited Brasserie Chavot on a weekday evening in April.

A selection of hot and cold starters demonstrated the range of Eric Chavot’s skills.

Steak tartare,topped with a soft boiled quail’s egg for extra richness, had a much looser, creamier texture than those found elsewhere and was all the better for it. The carefully seasoned beef was bound by a well balanced mustard dressing spiked with capers amd cornichons which enhanced the soft, succulent qualities of  the meat.

Chicken liver parfait was rich, intensely flavoured and surprisingly light. A slice of pork terrine was exemplary in its firm texture and depth of flavour.

Deep fried soft shell crabs were encased in a light tempura batter that was crisp and delicate without being greasy.Their relative blandness needed the pungency of the  whipped  saffron aioli  which accompanied the dish.

A special starter featured  seared scallops, accurately timed to produce a caramelised crust and sweet, translucent flesh. A topping of tiny crutons and bacon cubes added textural complexity, whilst grilled asparagus gave a deeply savoury quality to balance the sweetness of the seafood. A saffron dressing worked well in bringing these diverse elements together.

Main courses included a dish that no brasserie should be without: daube de beouf.  Long slow cooking had produced meltingly tender meat in a heavily reduced, deeply flavoured sauce that was glossy and sticky. Again, as with so many of his other dishes, Eric added his personal stamp , “garniture grande mere” – in this case, a bourgignon style addition of lardons, button mushrooms and baby onions –  along with carrots and a delectably smooth potato puree.

A sensational lamb dish partnered a glazed char grilled mini rack with a brick pastry cigarette filled with braised shoulder, showcasing the differing textural and flavour qualities of each cut. The accompanying couscous, studded with golden raisins, peppers, pine nuts, coriander and mint, complemented the lamb perfectly, whilst the whole dish was lifted by an intense olive jus.

Desserts were equally accomplished.

Baba au rhum showed the correct degree of spongy cake like texture and had been well, but not over, soaked in a sugar syrup. Crème fraiche Chantilly and a carpaccio of pineapple proved suitable accompaniments.

Cafe Liegeoise was a grown up interpretation of the classic.  Mocha ice cream, brownie and creme Chantilly  were topped with a crisp disc rich, dark chocolate.

Perhaps best of all was the glazed  passion fruit cheesecake with its curd and sorbet garnishes, each of which captured the sweet and sour flavour of this delectable fruit with its lasting astringent after taste.

Good Nespresso coffee completed a highly satisfying meal This was enhanced by the friendly, knowledgeable service and the exciting buzz of relaxed enjoyment as the restaurant filled up.

Clearly, Brasserie Chavot, with its stylish accommodation, relaxed ambience, accomplished cooking by a distinguished chef is already making a strong  impact. In a year that has seen many West End openings , it is more than capable of holding its own in what is already a highly competitive field. We will watch its progress with interest.

Head chef Philip Yeoman’s early career spanned the kitchens of The Dorchester, Harvey Nichols and Soho House before crossing the Atlantic to gain experience in the USA and Bermuda. Seven years at Lainston have seen his cooking acquire a distinct identity under the auspices of Executive Chef Andrew Mackenzie, who encourages maximum freedom of creativity. More recently, the two Michelin starred John Campbell has been has been acting as a consultant. This, combined with the inherent abilities of Phil, have led to a blossoming of The Avenue’s cuisine, which has been awarded three AA rosettes.

Leading a team of 15, Phil caters for a maximum of 60 covers in the restaurant, together with a host of special functions – the hotel is very popular for weddings and conferences. As a leading member of Hampshire Food Fair and Farmers’ Market – the largest in England – Phil is passionate about the sourcing of high quality regional produce, the suppliers of which are credited on the menu; hence scallops come from Portland Shellfish, lamb from the Hinwood flock, Broughton and pork from Lainston’s own pigs. The four acre kitchen garden, developed over the last two years and inspired by Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, provides 90% of his herbs and root vegetables, alongside a range of other vegetables and fruit.

Phil’s style, modestly described as “English cooking with a modern twist”, is based on classical roots, with the employment of modern techniques. Using water baths to maintain consistency of cooking is clearly in evidence, as is a degree of molecular wizardry in the production of foams, gels and spherification. However, they are not used to excess and are integral parts of the dish, adding flavour and texture.

The menu is adventurous, showing an assured understanding of taste and texture. Unusual but compatible combinations are seen in a starter of scallops with smoked eel, and mains of veal rump with goat’s curd and lemon, or halibut with oxtail, parsnip and walnut. Meat can involve two cuts cooked differently, best seen in the top selling roast loin of lamb with braised shoulder or pork fillet with braised pig’s cheek.  Desserts such as white chocolate, hob nob biscuit, toffee popcorn and mandarin sorbet can be playful and innovative.

Although some dishes appear relatively simple, this is not to underestimate the complexity and labour intensity of their production. Flavours are pure, with main ingredients allowed to speak for themselves. Textures and temperatures are well judged whilst the final presentation is clean and delicate.

The structure of the seasonally changing menu features five choices in each course, with cheese instead of dessert or as an additional course. Breads are baked on the premises. The ones sampled, onion brioche, baguette and country bread were all exemplary in their crisp crust and firm crumb.

The seven course tasting menu (with a vegetarian alternative) does not duplicate any of the dishes on the carte, showing the versatility and range of Phil’s cooking.

An amuse-bouche featured beetroot jelly, with goat and lemon curd. This combination of strong flavours was brilliantly conceived, the sweetness of the beetroot and richness of the goat’s curd being cut by the citrus. Candied hazelnuts added crunch to balance the other  smoother textures.

A terrine of loin and confit shoulder and leg of wild rabbit had a depth of flavour not usually found in bland inferior versions. Layered with cabbage and shitake mushrooms, it was moist and well-seasoned. Blackberry and pear puree with turnip shavings gave an element of sweetness and crispness. (Wine: Nyetimber Classic cuvee, Sussex)

Beautifully fresh seared scallops were perfectly timed to produce and caramelised crust and soft sweet flesh. An intense bisque, reduced almost to a demi-glace, complemented the seafood well, as did the silky smooth cauliflower puree and a “dressing” of sliced razor clams, which added a firmer texture. A molecular “snow” of beurre noisette powder gave an exciting temperature contrast to this warm dish. (Wine: FMC, Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester; Stellenbosch, 2008)

The next dish was a tour de force of vegetarian cookery. Jerusalem artichoke cooked to an al dente texture, and also in puree form, worked well with muted saltiness of parmesan crisps. Roasted black garlic perfumed the whole of this beautifully balanced composition which was finished by a scattering of chestnut shavings.

Beef blade benefitted from long slow cooking in a water bath before being finished in the pan. Apple batons added an element of freshness although the horseradish meringues needed more bite to offset their sweetness. Cep puree added deep earthy notes and the red onion marmalade and rich jus brought the dish together. (Wine: Exclusive hotels edition, Rioja, 2005)

A pre dessert of apple compote, vanilla espuma and crumble was well executed, each component adding a distinct flavour and texture. The star however was a quenelle of kalamansi sorbet which added an intense citrus note.

Finally a highly skilled and ambitious dessert featured quenelles of dark chocolate mousse, spheres of liquorice mousse, and lemon mousse encased in a dark chocolate cigarette. The richness of these decadent elements was offset by a lemon sphere, which oozed an intensely sharp liquid centre when cut. Almonds gave a much needed crunch to offset the overall smoothness of the other elements. (Wine: Elysium, black muscat, Andrew Quady, Central Valley, California 2010)

Strong coffee and excellent petit fours – passion fruit jelly, truffle, Florentine, chocolate crisp and fudge completed this distinguished meal.

All this was enhanced by knowledgeable, unobtrusive service and wines – from an award winning list – chosen by head sommelier| Peter Foulds.  His infectious enthusiasm – in particular for Nyetimber wines – and comprehensive knowledge are a testament to his passion and dedication to his craft.

Clearly the quality of the cooking at Lainston House hotel deserves a higher national profile than it has received so far. Certainly, the tasting menu I enjoyed was on a level equal with those eaten at other  Michelin starred restaurants. Indeed, Phil Yeomans has created a cuisine of which he can be justifiably proud and Fine Dining Guide will watch his career with interest.

What do you look for in a good neighbourhood restaurant? A high standard of cuisine consistently maintained; a strong following of regulars attracted by value for money prices; a warm welcome with friendly, efficient service; and pleasant surroundings in which to enjoy a relaxed meal out.

Charlotte’s Place in Ealing has all these qualities in abundance. But this is no ordinary neighbourhood restaurant. Winner of the 2013 Good Food Guide’s London Readers’ Restaurant of the Year Award, and currently holding two AA rosettes it is developing a higher profile in the capital as a whole.  Opened in 1984 and still bearing the name of the original owner, it was refurbished, rebranded and reopened under new ownership in 2005. Since then its reputation for being THE PLACE – forgive the pun – to eat locally has been regained.

Its appeal lies partly in a sheer lack of pretention. Located in a quiet street overlooking a corner of Ealing Common, it shares its home in a 150 year old house with an adjacent pub, The Grange, and is barely noticeable from the residential properties nearby. Ringing the doorbell in the side entrance gives an intimate, domestic feel which is emphasised by the simple décor of the ground floor dining room. Floral prints, large mirrors, wall lighting, wooden floor and plain, candle lit tables make the room cosy, compact and comfortable.

With a maximum of 54 covers, over half of which are in the basement dining room, the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner all week, a remarkable feat given the kitchen is smaller than those in modern homes, and is only able to accommodate four of the six chefs at any one time.

Chef Greg Martin leads the brigade offering what the restaurant describes as “traditional and European food.” Certainly, the presence of roast beef at Sunday lunch would confirm this. However, the set menu of six starters, mains and desserts shows a pleasing degree of ambition in its use of first rate, well sourced, seasonal ingredients. Consider for instance Heirloom Beetroot with goat’s curd cigar or crisp pig’s cheek, pork and fennel sausage roll , pork terrine and sauce Gribiche as interesting starters; or Home cured Saddleback pork loin, Chorizo , tomato and white bean stew as a main.

Whilst dishes are mercifully devoid of foams, purees and gels, the cooking is thoughtful and precise, with modern interpretations and combinations. A few dishes executed well in each course seems to be the key focus.

Pricing is also well judged: three courses at £29.95 for dinner, £19.95 for lunch (£5 extra at weekends) with reductions for two courses constitute real bargains. Even more so is the early evening offer of three courses and an aperitif for £26.95. Supplements – so often encountered in many restaurants – are noticeable by their absence.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening in March and was delighted with the dishes sampled.

Cornish mackerel tart featured slices of the raw fish, anchovy fillets, diced peppers parmesan shavings and balsamic dressing on a crisp puff pastry base smeared with tapenade. These strong flavours and contrasting textures were perfectly balanced, allowing the beautiful freshness of the oily fish to take pride of place.

A raviolo of delicately smooth pasta was generously filled with Cornish crab. The sweetness of the well-seasoned white meat worked well with the braised leeks and a chive butter sauce, making this a rich, unctuous dish.

A main course saw meltingly tender shredded braised oxtail topped with a tranche of roasted cod accurately timed to produce succulent flakes of translucent flesh. Added richness and sweetness was given by caramelised onion to contrast with the artichoke puree, cabbage and brown butter sauce. Crisp potato waffles crowned this robust tour de force of a surf and turf dish.

Equally accomplished was the more classical ballotine of chicken. Gently poached then wrapped in smoked bacon and finished in the pan, it was well seasoned and moist. Simple garnishes of buttered potatoes and steamed purple sprouting broccoli allowed the main element to shine, whilst a rich sauce spiked with tarragon lifted the whole dish.

Nor did the third courses disappoint. A classical pear and almond tart featured crisp pate sucree with soft frangipane and with sweet poached pear. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was velvety smooth whilst the butterscotch sauce gave a not too sweet a finish.

A selection of fine cheeses from La Fromagerie were in peak condition. Quince paste and oat cakes added to their enjoyment.

Overall, this was a most impressive meal, enhanced by well informed, engaging service and well- chosen wines from the extensive wine list. Given the skill shown in the cooking, the range of dishes offered and the competitive prices, it is no surprise that Charlotte’s Place is open all week, with 90% of diners booking to guarantee their places. Success has also led to expansion, with the opening of daughter restaurant Charlotte’s Bistro in Chiswick in July 2010. This has already gained Michelin Bib Goumands in 2011 and 2012. Fine Dining Guide will watch the progress of both restaurants with interest.

The ‘Street Food’ concept has become de rigueur for those seeking informal dining and is something to which Lebanese cuisine, seems ideally partnered. Based largely around Mezze, which like antipasto or tapas, offers the diner a cornucopia of choice, the food is vibrant, fresh and exciting and ideal for enjoying sociably with friends.

Yalla Yalla, established in 2008, is at the forefront of taking Lebanese cooking from the mundanity of Edgware Road to the hip Soho crowd. Initially based at a tiny site in the heart of Soho with only 28 seats, Jad Youseff and his partner Aga Ilska have expanded their business rapidly on the back of brisk trade, with a larger venue off Oxford Street and, more recently, a pop-up restaurant in Shoreditch.

Fine Dining Guide visited the Winsley Street restaurant on a Tuesday evening. Approaching the door, the popularity of this eatery was immediately obvious, with a large queue stretching out the door. Like many of its contemporaries, Yalla Yalla does not take bookings, however a relaxed bar area and efficient service mean that the wait for a table is far from arduous.

Drinks orders were taken quickly and our refreshment arrived promptly, accompanied by a tempting selection of the usual nibbles. Unusually, this included some extremely moreish slices of turnip that had been pickled with beetroot, along with requisite olives and fiery peppers.

As we enjoyed our drinks and accompaniments, we reviewed the menu and soaked up the surroundings. The decor, as one might expect, is contemporary and open plan, meaning noise can carry somewhat. Generally this adds to the vibrancy of the place, as does the close proximity of neighbouring tables. The walls are adorned with bright modern art pieces depicting street scenes from Beirut, and the soft furnishings appear similarly on theme, with cushions in the style of Kaffiyeh.

The menu is extensive, particularly when it comes to Mezze, and as we discovered, generous portions can make a hazard of over-ordering!

Staples such as Tabboule and Hommos were expertly delivered, with some interesting twists, for example, the Hommos Shawarma, with tender pieces of lamb shoulder were heaped upon a rich and glossy chickpea mash. This contrasted well against the fresh and slightly tart flavour of dishes such as the Samboussek Jibne, pastry parcels stuffed with Feta and Halloumi cheeses. Fine Dining Guide also sampled some more unusual options such as Makale Samak, an assortment of deep-fried seafood including Calamari, White Bait and Tiger Prawns, served with a chilli and mint yoghurt dip. One of the greatest achievements on the menu however, is the Sawda Djej, Chicken Livers sautéed with garlic and pomegranate molasses. This has been awarded the recognition as one of the top 100 dishes in 2012 according to Time Out Magazine, an accolade of which the perfectly cooked chicken livers were more than worthy.

Delicate spices and abundant starches form the backbone of most main dishes, enriched by the generous use of fresh herbs. The Lamb Casserole was rich and flavoursome, albeit slightly overpowered with Cumin. The Chicken Shawarma was more delicately flavoured, accompanied by a fresh red pepper salad.  All dishes were served with delicious buttered rice and had in common a generous use of authentic and relatively expensive ingredients, used more sparingly by some other proprietors.

Despite there being plenty to feast heartily on for the savoury courses, dessert is a treat not to be overlooked.  For those who have really over-done it, there is a decent range of refreshing sorbets. On the other hand those who are feeling more capacious will enjoy the sticky sweetness of the Baklawa selection or lighter options such as Mohalabya – fragrant milk pudding – topped with perfectly balanced Pomegranate syrup.

Prices are very reasonable, with Mezze ranging from £4-5 per dish and main dishes all coming in at less than £15. There is also a varied and well-compiled wine selection, including wines by the glass. With all this in mind, the name of Yalla Yalla seems very fitting, meaning ‘come on’ or ‘get going’ in Arabic.

At interview, Daniel Galmiche radiates warmth and charm. This classically trained chef, with extensive experience that includes Harvey’s in Bristol in the 1990s, and L’Ortolan and Cliveden since then, has set himself a new challenge at The Vineyard. Seeing the trend towards a more relaxed, consumer-led approach to dining, he now offers a unique dining concept that offers maximum choice in wine and food. Tables (to a maximum of six) can select wines and leave the kitchen to prepare dishes to match them; or tasting menus of three, four or five dishes can be chosen from a list of 18, to be eaten in any order  with the only proviso that one is a dessert.

The sommeliers will then choose matching wines from three grades, priced accordingly. There are other alternatives including the Discovery menu of the five courses with matching wines, and the ultimate Judgement of Paris menu which features two wines, one Californian, one French, with each of seven courses!

Daniel admits the new formula places pressure on the kitchen, the sommeliers and front of house. However he demonstrates the energy and determination to make it work, and has adapted his kitchen to facilitate this approach. His mainly young brigade is also committed to its success.

Prioritising the needs of his diners rather than the safer, chef-led approach that might please the guides, is paramount. Accessibility to a wider range of smaller dishes and a greater range of (sometimes expensive) wines by the glass, is equally important. Indeed, he sees this as future of fine dining. The result so far has been impressive, with a vibrant relaxed ambience and sense of fun pervading the dining room. This is especially noticeable on Saturday evenings when 90 covers are often served.

Rightfully proud of his Decanter /Laurent-Perrier Restaurant of the Year 2012 award, Daniel has been advised to trademark his unique formula before it is copied. Indeed, chefs and food glitterati have been impressed by observing it in action. Moreover, many of the guests are Londoners, keen to escape the constraints of dining in the capital.

Daniel Galmiche’s cooking style, based on the classics, has become increasingly light, colourful and fragrant, with Mediterranean influences. Employing first rate ingredients, he is passionate about their provenance and sustainability, from line caught fish, hand dived scallops, single estate, grass fed meat, to maize/hand fed foie gras. Many seasonal dishes are locally sourced.  Embracing modern techniques to enhance flavour and texture, dishes comprise relatively few ingredients, allowing the main element to shine. The use of foams, gels and purees is evident but not to excess and added not for mere decoration but to add taste and texture. Precise timing of meat and seafood dishes is a major strength which, given the various menu permutations, is a staggering feat in itself. So too is the final dressing of plates – not over-elaborate but labour intensive nevertheless. The overall result is clear flavours, balance of tastes and textures, and elegant, clean presentation.

Fine-Dining-Guide opted for a five course tasting menu with matching wines on a busy Thursday evening in March 2013.

The three breads – country farm, soda and rosemary and potato – were all exemplary in their crisp crust and delicate crumb.

A soft disc of guinea fowl ballotine, expertly poached, rolled and chilled to give a mild gamey flavour, was given a lift by the addition of lemon zest. Textural contrast was provided in the crisp yellow frisee leaves dressed with lemon and a scattering of sourdough crumbs mixed with walnuts. The luscious floral notes and minerality of the wine was a highly satisfying match with the food. (Wine: Kistier Chardonnay, California 2009)

Pressed terrine of foie gras had a creamy texture and superb flavour. Dressed with celery gel and raisin puree to give sweetness and carrot batons for texture, this was another refined, balanced composition. The magical finishing touch was spice of angels which gave a gentle anise fragrance to the dish. Again, the acidic apple and pear notes in the wine proved a good foil for the richness on the plate. (Wine: Torbreck Australia, 2008)

A tranche of foie gras was seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft melting interior. Smooth celeriac puree mixed with cardamom added an earthy warmth, whilst orange and chicory salad gave a freshness and zing which cut the richness of the delectable piece of offal.

Seared, hand dived Orkney scallops retained their sweet succulence under their caramelised crust. This was balanced by Iberico ham which added a mild saltiness with broccoli florets and gel giving a gentle bitterness. A sprinkling of blanched almonds provided a nutty textural contrast to the finished dish. The crisp, dry Alsace Riesling with lemon notes complemented these elements well. (Wine: Trimbach F Emile, France 2007)

Both fish dishes benefited from accurate seasoning and timing, with minimal garnishes. The thick fillet of Cornish sea bass had delicate translucent flakes under its crisp skin. Wilted red chard, chive dressing and a sprinkling of quinoa were lively, well balanced accompaniments. The honey and spice flavours of the dry Californian white did full justice to this to this dish. (Wine: Tables Creek, California 2009)

Softer in texture but equally flavoursome was the fillet of Cornish brill. Here, the delicate sweetness of this pan roasted fish was balanced the more robust, earthy flavours of chanterelles, salsify and Swiss chard. A rich, intense poultry jus brought the contrasting elements together well.  This dish could take a medium bodied red wine which the Pinot Noir did perfectly. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The poultry dish married the crisp skinned breast of corn fed chicken with a classic accompaniment of mushroom in puree form to intensify its flavour. Kale added both colour and flavour whilst potato and chive ribbons, stir fried slowly, gave a crisp texture and mild onion fragrance. The saucing for this dish was again exemplary. The use of the same Pinot Noir as for the brill amply demonstrated the both the versatility of the wine and the skill of the sommelier. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The final savoury dish was saddle of Balmoral estate venison, cooked to a medium rare to maximise its mild, gamey flavour. Cooking this dish reflects Daniel’s meticulous attention to detail to show case ingredients at their best: the venison is lightly brushed with espresso from his own coffee mix before being gently cooked sous-vide and finished in the pan to add colour and more flavour. Finally, before being sent to the table, a grating of 70% Andoa single estate Fair Trade chocolate from Venezuela is added. This regal dish, in all senses of the word, was master-class of game cookery, producing a tender, almost melting texture. The sweetness of butternut squash, the textural contrast of hazelnuts and pearl barley and the vibrant notes of spring greens helped to make this a highly satisfying dish. Pairing a Uruguayan red might not seem to be an immediate choice, but the one chosen had a lovely sweetness with spice and oak notes that worked well with the venison. Again, the breadth of knowledge of the sommelier and the ability to share this with disarming charm was amply demonstrated. (Wine: Preludio  Deicas Tannat, Uruguay 2010)

Often, desserts can be an anti-climax after the embarrassment of riches that precede them. This was not the case, the pastry section displaying its strengths to the full. The new menu concept requires consistency across the courses as well as amongst sweet and savoury.

Griottine cherry and cranberry terrine balanced sweet and sour elements well in a layered composition that was complemented by a fragrant pistachio parfait. The strength of flavour of the kirsch marinated cherries helped to make this a very adult dessert, white port being a very acceptable wine accompaniment (Wine: Caldas Alves de Sousa, Portugal NV)

Finally, a delicate cylinder of dark chocolate filled with ginger ice cream, and pineapple, was crowned with a tonka bean emulsion which added a characteristic fragrance of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves.

Good coffee and mini lemon tarts, passion fruit jellies and chocolate truffles completed a first rate meal. Pino Marletta, Restaurant Host Manager, ensured that service went smoothly, with dishes and wines being clearly and concisely explained. This was a highly memorable tasting menu that did not falter on any dish and which skilfully balanced the composition of courses. It is a mystery why a Michelin star has not been awarded, but it can only be a matter of time before this distinction, gained by Daniel Galmiche in his previous restaurants, is achieved. Fine Dining Guide will watch his progress with interest.