A lively buzz of gastronomic excitement was almost palpable as we entered Bar Boulud. Apologetically, we confessed that this was our first visit to Daniel Boulud’s first UK restaurant which opened in May 2010. By the end of the afternoon, we realised how much we had been missing!

Located on ground floor of the Mandarin Oriental, Bar Boulud is much more than its name and understated entrance off Knightsbridge would suggest. The zinc topped curved bar and the glass wall of wine are indeed impressive, giving lovers of Burgundy and Rhone Valley vintages particular pleasure, although the 400 selection of wines features many other Old and New world selections. Beer drinkers are not ignored, with an extensive range of rare draft and bottled beers from artisanal continental microbreweries on offer.

However, all this serves to complement a thriving brasserie of two connecting rooms with seating for 169 guests. There are also two private dining rooms seating 20 each. Adam D Tihany, whose international CV includes his stunning creations at Dinner (also at the Mandarin), and Apsley’s at the Lanesborough, has transformed this previously underused yet spacious part of the grand hotel into a tasteful, comfortable venue. The low, modern vaulted ceiling, vintage oak floors and wainscoting, red leather banquettes and chairs, all contribute to a design inspired by the wines of Burgundy. Contemporary twisted pendants and cleverly positioned spotlighting provide ample illumination, whilst the walls are decorated with prints of celebrated brasseries and bistros in Lyons and framed wine stained napkins from Daniel Boulud’s favourite vintages. The far dining room also features a sleek, French tiled open kitchen with a long glass display and bar where seated guests can view the preparation of charcuterie, the restaurant’s speciality.

Yet location, space and design would count for little if the service and food were not up to scratch. This is where Bar Boulud really shines and explains why the restaurant attracts a staggering 14,000 guests a month, 80% of whom are regulars.  Moreover, the restaurant never turns away those who have not booked, space being found, if needed, on the high tables near the bar.

From the initial welcome at reception to the final farewell on departure, the service on our visit, overseen by the charming and engaging Senior Maitre’D Paulo de Tarso, was flawlessly professional, yet relaxed and friendly. Nor did it show signs of flagging in the busy lunchtime service. Simon, who served us, was knowledgeable, eager to please, and efficient without being obtrusive.

A brigade of up to 20 chefs is responsible for an extensive all day bistro menu based on seasonal, rustic French cooking but which also features US style steaks, burgers, pizzas and seafood. A Bar Snack and Prix Fixe Menu are also available. Thus, a real embarrassment of choice faces diners at Bar Boulud.

However, the superb charcuterie is not to be missed. This are produced on site, under the direction of acclaimed Gilles Verot whom we were lucky enough to meet on our visit. This third generation charcutier, originally from the Loire Valley, spoke enthusiastically about the two renowned boutiques in Paris he runs with his wife, and how he has supplied Daniel Boulud’s New York restaurants before coming to London.

Gilles Verot

Employing classic artisanal, hands on methods, and sourcing highest quality pork from heritage farms, the pates and terrines of Gilles Verot are second to none. We sampled a magnificent tasting platter replete with all the varieties on the menu. Smooth Pate Grand-Mere, with chicken liver, pork and cognac, contrasted with the coarser Pate Grand-Pere, enriched with foie gras, truffle juice and port.  A flavoursome, jellied terrine, Lapin de Garrigue, featured pulled braised rabbit, carrot, courgette and tarragon which gave a mild aniseed lift. Smoked duck terrine with red wine was equally accomplished in taste and mosaic like composition. A luxurious seasonal terrine of veal, pork and duck was studded with pistachio for extra texture and flavour, and encased in a sweet brioche crust. Similarly, a foie gras terrine saw a rich torchon with apriciot encased in a hazelnut crust. Best of all was the Fromage de Tete, densely packed cubes of moist, succulent pig’s head cheese terrine. This was the dish for which Gilles was awarded Champion de France du Fromage de Téte in 1997.

The platter also included salamis and three hams. The nuttiness of aged Iberico, whose rich creamy fat simply melted in the mouth, was an indulgent taste sensation. Bayonne ham was slightly sweeter, and more delicately flavoured, with a chewy texture and little salt to the taste. Delicious home cooked Jambon de Paris, I have it on good authority, is massaged by hand to tenderise the meat and work out the excess moisture!

To cut the richness of the porcine feast, a tray of accompaniments included grain and smooth mustard, cornichons and pearl onions. Beetroot and carrots were gently sweet pickled, but best of all was an accomplished celeriac remoulade which struck the right balance of slight acidity and mustardy creaminess.

A well executed Coq au vin could be seen as the acid test of classic rustic French cookery, and in this respect Bar Boulud did not disappoint. The use of free range boiling fowl, slowly cooked and using the sweeter thigh and leg joints, produced an unctuous, meltingly textured dish. Crisp lardons, pearl onions and Bluefoot mushrooms, added in the final stages of cooking to retain their individual flavours and textures, complemented the deep flavour of the red wine sauce which bought the dish together.

A special main course of roasted suckling pig was generously portioned in thick slices. The farce included celeriac, apple and onions  which helped to cut the richness of the pork. A light but intense jus added more flavour.  What a pity, then, that the delicate skin of the baby pig was not crisp – my only (minor) gripe in the whole meal.

Fragrant truffled mash, creamed spinach and pommes Lyonnaise proved ideal accompaniments for both main courses

For dessert we sampled two of the lightest options. Refreshing lime and kalamanzi and mango-coconut sorbets were smooth and intensely flavoured.  The best-selling Coupe peppermint featured layers of flourless sponge, mint chocolate ice cream and hot chocolate sauce – a rich marriage of tastes and temperatures.

The meal was completed with good coffee, warm madeleines and home made chocolates.

Overall, our visit ticked all the boxes for a memorable meal in comfortable, relaxed surroundings. Given the wide range of dishes on offer, future visits are essential to sample the seafood, including queen scallop ceviche and razor clams; warm specialities such as crepinette ris de veau;  and the variety of sausages and steaks. Perhaps more importantly, there is a need to try the NY grilled beef burgers – the Yankee, BB, Piggie and Frenchie – which were received with acclaim when Bar Boulud first opened and which are still hugely popular. We can’t wait to return!

Website: www.barboulud.com/london/

Bobby Chinn

Few chefs can have as interesting a background as Bobby Chinn. Born in New Zealand to a Chinese father and Egyptian mother, he was educated in England, went through a varied series of jobs – including stand-up comedian and commodity broker – in America, before making his gastronomic name in Vietnam. With celebrated eponymous restaurants in Hanoi and Saigon, and a successful role as TV host for World Café Asia on the Discovery Channel, he has entered the continually exciting London restaurant scene with opening of the House of Ho.

Not that his career as a chef has progressed smoothly. Indeed, having earlier sustained a serious injury working as a saucier, he was crippled for a year and given a (premature) diagnosis of “permanently disabled!” Today, with a slim physique and engaging charm, he looks 35 but approaches his 50^th birthday. Cool and hip, as befitting his surroundings, he surveys his restaurant and chats to guests. Enthusiastic and energetic, concerned that every aspect of his new venture should be perfect, he openly discusses teething problems in the kitchen, the décor and the restaurant’s acoustics – he prefers less noise and hopes to install surround sound.

After several years of searching for a suitable venue, Bobby has bagged a prime double fronted site in Old Compton Street, in the heart of Soho. The exterior is understated in a matt black wooden finish, with small windows, modest entrance and minimalist signing. The low ceilinged, oak floored interior is deceptively spacious, with 90 covers at plain, bamboo timbered tables and low backed green leather banquettes. The ten metre dispense bar divides front and back seating areas, whilst varied spotlighting, creating a shadowy feel, and bare grey walls also help to create an informal, relaxed atmosphere. This attracts the mainly young clientele, creating an animated buzz in the restaurant.

They come mainly, however, for the Vietnamese cuisine, admired as one of the healthiest in the world, with its use of fresh ingredients, minimal use of oil, reliance on herbs and vegetables, and selective use of spices. The House of Ho specialises in northern Vietnamese dishes, (and a few from the south), which are light and  subtle in their combination of flavours, sourcing is impeccable, with a special emphasis on the “ethical purchasing of seafood.” Cooking is accurately timed and portions are generous, with grilling, salads and broths being prominent. Not surprisingly, given Bobby Chinn’s background, the menu also includes some fusion dishes, once again in fashion. Descriptors such as fillet mignon, ceviche, truffle oil, tartare, baby back ribs, scallions, bouillabaisse, frittata and crème brulee testify to the use of western methods and ingredients.

The five sectioned menu, which will change gradually, offers a range of dishes to ensure consistency at pleasingly modest prices.

Fine Dining Guide selected four of the five Light and Raw dishes, priced between £4 and £9

First came traditional Pho Cuon, cold rice noodle rolls, with a slightly gelatinous texture, generously filled with roast duck, dressed with crispy scallions and accompanied by a light, fragrant dip. These provided a deliciously satisfying starter.

A Vietnamese salad featured sweet crab and crisp vegetable noodles tossed in fish sauce. The use of pomelo; sweeter and less citric than grapefruit – often used to partner crab in western dishes – complemented rather than overpowered the seafood. Mint and lemon oil lifted the flavours, whilst Vietnamese crackers added a crisp finish.

Next was a lively seafood ceviche of vibrantly fresh prawns, sea bass and scallops. Mangosteen provided a mild aroma and delicate sweetness to balance the marinade spiked with white truffle oil and coconut jus. Diced sweet pepper added a much needed crispness to this dish which was stunningly presented Cascading from a halved coconut onto a lotus leaf.

Another successful fusion dish featured wonderfully succulent salmon tartare topped with a quail’s egg.  Chopped pistachio, herbal shiso and crisp sweet turnip like Jicama dressed in Asian vinaigrette, provided unusual but successful mixing ingredients in terms of flavour and texture. A final flourish was given by a large rice cracker.

The Hot and Grilled selection, priced between £5 and £9, includes a signature dish of grilled chicken wings with a spicy chilli glaze which took 10 years to perfect. Smokey aubergine, warm scallion vinaigrette with scallions and crispy shallots is equally popular.

We decided on Hanoi’s grilled quails with crispy noodles and were not disappointed. The small, butterflied game birds retained their moist succulence, their flavour enhanced by fragrant Chinese five spice.  A wedge of lime, and a bowl of chopped kumquat, fresh chilli, black pepper and salt proved suitable condiments to be used at the diner’s discretion.

From Ho’s Dishes, six alternatives priced between £9 and £14, we chose two contrasting preparations.

Apple smoked belly pork had been slowly braised before being cold smoked, although this might have been a little stronger. The result was a melting, unctuously rich meat in a dark caramel sauce. A marinated Japanese style egg and braised cabbage – (perhaps more of the latter) – finished this traditional dish, given a unique Bobby twist.

Vietnamese Seafood Bouillabaisse, replete with accurately timed monkfish, mussels and squid, also included tomatoes, okra and carambola, the last adding texture if not flavour. However, the broth, the base of the dish, would have been improved with extra tamarind sourness to balance the excessive sweetness of the pineapple. This was a dish that is still a work in progress.

From the four Sides (£2.50 to £4) Jasmine rice helped to soak up the juices whilst Morning Glory, a type of water spinach, added a flavoursome, fresh note.

Desserts, (a choice of three, from £4.50 to £6.50), never a strong point in Asian restaurants, include a trio of ice creams and lemon scented crème brulee. The best, which we sampled, was Molten Marou chocolate cake. Made from cocoa beans ethically grown in Vietnam, it is essentially a chocolate fondant with an oozingly rich interior. Lemon grass ice cream of silky texture completed this fusion dessert.

Overall, the  meal at the House of Ho was a highly enjoyable experience. The service was welcoming, courteous and efficient. Those visiting for the first time like ourselves could be better informed of the signature dishes. Not that we will resent returning to sample the delights of Duck a la Banana, Grilled chicken wings, Shaking beef and Lemongrass Monkfish with Fish Caramel sauce.

The competitively priced Drinks list, featuring sakes, Old and New World wines and cocktails (starting from £7), laced with home-made bitters and syrups, is an added attraction.

Although Anthony Bourdain has described Bobby Chinn as an “international man of mystery,” there is no secret as to why the House of Ho has made an impressive start, immediately proving popular amongst a well-heeled clientele Its West End location, lively atmosphere, not over ambitious menu and keen prices are a recipe for continued success.

Simon Bonwick has made a welcome and timely return to East Berkshire, taking over at The Crown in Burchetts Green in the autumn of 2013.

Living locally, we have followed his career, enjoying meals at the food led pubs where he has been head chef.  He first made his name less than three miles away at the Black Boys Inn, Hurley, where his modern British cooking attracted diners from Maidenhead, Henley, Marlow and beyond. In the highly selective Good Food Guide of 2007 it was named Berkshire Newcomer of the Year, earning a mark of 5/10 which it retained for the next two years. During this time it was also awarded a prestigious Bib Gourmand by Michelin for its good cuisine and value for money. We ate there several times enjoying his accomplished cooking. Fish and game dishes were particular strengths, so it was little surprise when we learnt he had won the title Game Master 2009, beating several Michelin starred chefs with his dish of steamed mallard breast with white truffle dumplings and root vegetable bouillon. The competition, in association with Restaurant Magazine, rewarded for the best game dish in the country.  Our only regret was we didn’t have the opportunity to try it!

A move to the Three Tuns in Henley earned Simon another 5/10 in the 2011 Good Food Guide, followed by another short tenure at the Half Moon in Cuxham, Oxfordshire, where, had the stay been longer, he would have received similar or higher acclaim. Anyone who could serve stuffed pig’s trotter as he did in Henley, or “Assiette aux trois saveurs,” a veritable tour de force of meat and game cookery at Cuxham, was deserving of the highest praise.

Now, after a period of private service, he has come to revive the fortunes of The Crown at Burchett’s Green, a quintessentially English village in the heart of the Berkshire Green Belt. The Crown has had checkered history in its food offering in recent years, with highs and lows. Our abiding memory from over ten years ago – since when it has changed hands at least three times – was being served raspberry sorbet which was white and tasteless, and given a knife which still bore the smell of raw garlic. Not impressive, although another meal under new ownership some time later partly restored our faith.

On hearing of Simon’s arrival, we were keen to visit. Whilst the exterior remains unchanged, the low ceilinged, oak beamed dining area has been given a lift. The freshly painted walls are decorated with food based prints. Wall lighting, which is not dimmed to ridiculously low levels so diners cannot see the food, gives a bright, comforting warmth. Scrubbed pine tables and a newly varnished wooden floor complete the fresh, rustic feel.

Given the plethora of high end, fine dining restaurants in the area, Simon’s aim is not to compete at that level – although we are confident he could easily hold his own if he did. Rather, a more home-style menu, including the resurrection of some British classics, is being offered in more relaxed surroundings. Not that there is any compromise regarding the essentials of impeccably sourced, mainly British seasonal ingredients, harmonious combinations of taste and texture, and accurate cooking based on classical techniques.

The Winter Food menu includes four starters (from £3 to £8) and five mains (£12 to £15) and five desserts at £6 each. Whilst desserts feature British classics such as hot apple crumble, other courses are more adventurous: consider, for instance, Madam St Agnes recipe for brined Savoie cheese, Mr Farley’s beetroot salad with goat’s curd, or Truffle polenta, squash pickle and slated chestnut. Specials such as venison and pigeon pie with rowan, or and wild mushroom risotto with truffle offer enticing alternatives.

Our meal started with a dish of a soused herring which tasted and looked nothing like the standard version. Here the fish fillets were enhanced by a marinade lifted by the addition of acacia honey and yuzu which gave a gentle sweet and citric balance. Thickly sliced radish added a contrasting lively crunch, whilst delicately arranged micro leaves gave a fresh, decorative finish.  Invention, skill and artistry were all shown in this simple starter.

Next, a delectable tranche of foie gras was sauted to produce a caramelised crust and soft, melting interior. Resting on a slice of toasted brioche, it was accompanied by chestnuts, baby onions and puy lentils in a rich wine based sauce. Here was a dish of luxurious and humble ingredients, which maximised the flavours of both through fast and long slow cooking. The Riesling, Schloss Vollrads Riesling, Kabinett Feinherb, Rheingau, 2008, was elegant with  touch a sweetness – a fine match for the food.

It was pleasing to see the main course featured Dexter beef, from a small, once rare breed. Cooked medium rare to enhance its dark, well-marbled qualities, the soft, flavoursome meat was garnished with trompette de la mort and porcini mushrooms, the heady fragrance of which complemented the meat perfectly. Mashed potato added substance and a light jus bought the dish together without overwhelming the main elements. The Pinot Noir wine which accompanied the dish, Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru, Cote de Nuits, Domain Perrot-Minot, 2007, was subtle and satisfying, with a nice nose of berry bruit and balanced acrossthe palate.

Three desserts, two English classics and the third French, were greedily consumed.

Hot toffee apple crumble had a rich buttery topping of exemplary texture. The generous Bramley apple filling struck the right balance of sweetness and sharpness whilst vanilla ice cream was velvety smooth and well flavoured.

Lemon Possett blended cream, lemon juice and caster sugar into a tangy, thick but not over sweet dessert. It was given a little twist with the addition of violets crystals and flaked almonds for contrasting texture. A beautifully crisp palmier finished the dish perfectly.

St Emilion chocolate pot was rich, dense, dark and fruity. Again, the balance of this dessert was well judged, with the cognac not overwhelming the chocolate taste. Simply served in white porcelain, it did full justice to the classic French recipe.

Overall, this was an accomplished meal, with thoughtful, well executed dishes devoid of superfluous flourishes. The wines were chosen from a select list, combining fine and rare wines with more accessible house wines. The young man who served us was friendly, efficient and well informed

In conversation with Simon afterwards, our view of him as a highly skilled, passionate chef who clearly loves his craft was fully confirmed. An air of eccentricity pervades his persona, being fuelled by his encyclopedic knowledge of the food, wine and restaurant world. This also makes it a joy share our thoughts with him. Burchetts Green clearly needs a chef of his calibre and we wish him every success in his new venture. Fine Dining Guide will follow his progress with interest.

Cambridge today is a town of two halves. The architectural spendour of King’s, Trinity and St John’s, lining the picturesque beauty of The Backs, is well known to all. Most visitors arriving at the station take a right turn for the historic centre. However, a turn in the opposite direction, and only three minutes by taxi, will take them to Alimentum, the Michelin starred restaurant in the southern, less familiar, but rapidly developing part of this university town.

Far removed from the narrow streets and ancient college buildings to the north, Alimentum is housed in the ground floor of a new block of flats on the busy Hills Road – where it widens as a dual carriageway – diagonally opposite a modern shopping mall adjacent to a private housing development. The location, together with its proximity to the station – only 50 minutes by fast train from King’s Cross – and the decision to open all week are major bonuses, attracting London foodies as well as local, well-heeled professionals and academics.

Beyond the spacious bar, complete with jazz piano and high stools, the long, high ceilinged restaurant has a smart, informal feel. Smoked glass windows and plain white walls – apart from the red cushioned section at the far end – throw into sharp relief the polished wooden floor, well-spaced dark lacquered tables, and comfortable leather seating. Thankfully, the lighting is not turned down to ridiculously low levels, unlike many high end restaurants, so diners at Alimentum can actually appreciate dishes in their full glory.

The 60 cover dining room can be divided in half by a folding partition to create a private dining area. The major attraction of this end of the restaurant however is the cleverly positioned low window looking into the kitchen. Diners can observe the intense activity of the cold starters and dessert section: bread, fruit and vegetables are swiftly sliced; salads precisely arranged and delicately dressed; savoury mousses carefully piped; sauces artistically drizzled, smeared and doted; ice creams and sorbets deftly shaped into quenelles; crumbs and chopped nuts neatly scattered; and blow torching used for bruleed finishing. And, constantly in the background, the chef-patron’s eagle eye inspects all dishes leaving the passe.

Mark Poynton’s modern European cuisine developed during his seven years at Midsummer House where he was head chef. Since joining Alimentum in 2008, then becoming its owner in 2010, his cooking has reached greater heights. Recognition in his own right came quickly, with the award of three AA rosettes, high marks in The Good Food Guide – including being listed in the Top 60 best UK restaurants – and a Michelin star, the ultimate accolade, in the 2013 Guide edition.

I first sampled his cuisine at his pop up restaurant at the Landmark hotel in November 2012. Now, a year later, I was able to visit Cambridge to enjoy again his highly skilled, inventive and complex cooking. With a talented brigade of eight, Mark employs contemporary techniques to supplement, but not overwhelm, a solid classical base. Impeccable, carefully sourced seasonal ingredients are used in multi component dishes revealing layers of flavour. They impress by their painstaking preparation, accurate timing, harmonious combination of taste and textures, and exquisite presentation.

Creativity and passion matched by accomplished execution are much in evidence in the ambitious menu structure.  Terse listings of main ingredients understate both content and composition, adding to the excitement when the dishes finally arrive.The fixed price lunch and early evening menu offers excellent value at £24.50 for three courses, £18.50 for two. A wider choice is available from the carte (£49 for three courses. £36 for 2), whilst two tasting menus are offered: the seven course Taste of Alimentum (£72) and the ten course Surprise Menu (£85). Wines flights to match these, priced at £35 and £42 respectively, are a relative steal at this level. For those who prefer to choose themselves from the international wine list, they will find a good range by the glass, carafe and bottle, without the aggressive mark ups seen elsewhere.

Visiting on a Friday evening, the buzz of real enjoyment created by contended diners became more palpable as the restaurant filled up. The clientele, including students with their parents, groups of young executives and mature couples, reflected the general appeal of the restaurant to a wide social mix.

The Surprise Menu was selected to demonstrate the extensive range of skills and versatile use of seasonal produce.

Nibbles of savoury popcorn and crisp gougeres, generously filled gruyere, were enjoyed with a glass of wonderfully fresh, Deutz Brut, NV champagne.

A warm mini sage and onion loaf had a crisp crust and firm, well flavoured crumb. By way of contrast, slices of milk loaf were more delicate, giving also a nice retro touch.

The inventive element to the cooking was quickly evident in the amuse bouche, a playful interpretation of carrot and coriander soup. A base of caramelised carrot was topped by a silky veloute and crowned with an intense quenelle of coriander sorbet. This witty offering was a miniature triumph of contrasting tastes and temperatures.

Beetroot, goat’s cheese, carrot and orange:

Gently pickled golden and red baby beets and carrots were partnered with a light, creamy but not cloying goat’s curd mousse, encased in a cylindrical beetroot tuile.  An intense orange gel, acting as a dressing, cut the richness of crumbled goat’s cheese, extending the sweet and sour notes, whist micro leaves gave a herbal, decorative flourish. These humble ingredients, with contrasting crisp and soft textures, were elevated into a refined, elegant dish which was visually stunning in its vibrant colours. The matching Sauvignon, Chateau Reynon Blanc, Bordeaux, 2007, was suitably light, crisp and clean.

Quail, breast and legs, broccoli lime and peanut

Resting on a bed of smooth pea puree and garnished with wilted bok choy, the well flavoured game comprised melting confit leg and a soft, caramelised breast. Peanuts added crunch whilst an intense wine reduction was acidulated with lime, an inspired touch adding a refreshing lift to a rich dish. Again, the matching wine – “Babiana”, Vondeling, Paarl, South Africa, with its balance of spice and fruit, and an underlying minerality, worked well with the food.

Plaice, langoustine, cucumber, fennel and seaweed

Accurately timed fillets, double layered and topped with firm, sweet langoustines, were sauced with a well-executed chive beurre blanc which did full justice to the seafood. Garnished with shaved fennel and seaweed, this was a fresh, lively dish with subtle aniseed notes. The white wine, St-Aubin, en Remilly 1er Cru, Voincent Girardin, Burgundy, 2010, with its good acidity and minerality complemented the food well, adding to the enjoyment.

Monkfish, pork belly, onion and bay leaf

This “surf and turf” combination was a veritable tour de force of tastes and textures. The moist, meaty monkfish tail and soft, unctuously rich, slow cooked pork were highly compatible partners. Onion puree added an earthy depth, endive gave crisp texture, and bay leaves added a herbal, gentle fragrance. This robust dish was served with Pinot Noir, Robert Oatley, Mornington Peninsula, Australia,2011, a light bodied, gently spiced clear red which paired up equally well with the fish and meat.

Beef fillet, parfait, artichoke, cep, salsify, beetroot, hazelnut

Succulent squares of medium rare fillet shared the plate with two delectable parfaits, one of foie gras, the other of ceps. Their rich flavours and soft textures were balanced by the acidity and crispness of artichoke Barigoule. Other autumnal vegetables – salsify, Swiss chard and beetroot – alongside layered potatoes, hazelnuts, a rich jus and the heady fragrance of shaved truffle, added to the embarrassment of riches, making this the most sensual, indulgent dish on the menu. How fitting that it was paired with a full bodied red of great depth and character – Cabernet Franc, “Figure Libre”, Gayda, Languedoc, 2011

The three sweet courses showed the strengths of the pastry section and the meticulous same attention to detail as the savoury dishes

Pineapple, barbeque’d,yogurt

This pre dessert served as a palate cleanser, with its refreshing tang of yogurt sorbet set alongside cubes of barbequed pineapple garnished with shards of meringue.

Banana Parfait, pecan granola and smoked maple ice cream

Here was another successful marriage of tastes, textures and temperatures.

Blackberry, apple, hazelnut and cassia bark

This autumnal dessert comprised whole blackberries, an intense sorbet and a lively apple semi freddo, both of exemplary consistency. Cubes of apple jelly and a crumble of hazelnuts given the cinnamon flavouring of cassia bark added textural and flavour complexity, again demonstrating the fertile imagination and creativity of the chef.

Overall, this was a most accomplished meal, with no anti-climaxes as is often the case with desserts in a tasting menu.

Wine pairings were expertly selected and concisely presented by the sommelier. The mainly young front of house team, ably overseen by Des (Daniel Huby) the restaurant manager, provided knowledgeable, professional yet relaxed and friendly service. This, together with the excellent food, wine and lively atmosphere – there is also live music at weekends – have contributed to Alimentum’s success as a destination restaurant. Mark Poynton and his team clearly deserve the recognition they have received and move from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide will certainly follow their progress with interest.

With an Australian sounding name, Russian owner, Brazilian chef, French manager and paintings by a Syrian artist, Ozz has a somewhat confused identity.  Its location at 41-43 Lisson Grove, an undistinguished commercial street north of the Marylebone Road and round the corner from the station, puts it at a disadvantage compared with the trendy eateries of Marylebone village.  However, the restaurant setting and design are not targeted primarily to attract at a bright, young demographic.

The understated, net curtained frontage gives little idea of the eclectic décor within. The two interconnected dining areas feature chequerboard tiles with under floor heating, grey floral wallpaper, Tiffany pendant lights and Middle Eastern style paintings. Tables are simply dressed in white cloths, and leather backed chairs are plain but comfortable. An open hatch allows diners a glimpse of activity in the kitchen.

The menu structure comprises a carte of seven starters, six mains and eight desserts supplemented by a good value set lunch, £15.95 for two courses, £18.95 for three. The wine list offers a selection at reasonable prices, although aperitifs, digestives and specialty coffees are expensive in comparison.

Head chef Emerson Amélio D’Oliveira has extensive restaurant experience, more recently with the Galvin brothers. He offers, according to the website, a “unique style of cuisine, created with passion in a truly contemporary style.”  Ingredients are well sourced, the cooking is competent and the portions are generous. Dishes which are rooted in the French classics, such as seared foie gras, or duck breast with pomme Dauphine feature Individual components which are well rendered, and artistically presented. However, it is the combination of ingredients, along with differing temperatures and textures, which occasionally raise questions of compatibility: consider vanilla Jerusalem artichoke with monkfish, citrus saffron vodka dressing on the same dish, or Culantro sauce and papaya with braised oxtail

Fine Dining Guide visited on a mid-week evening in the first month of Ozz’s opening.

We nibbled on good home baked bread, freshly prepared each day, with our starters.

The distinctly strong taste of grilled asparagus, cooked al dente and benefitting from a gentle smokiness, was balanced in taste and texture by the soft sweetness of confit heritage tomatoes and a carrot mousse of velvety smoothness.  A dressing of port and balsamic dressing finished this well conceived vegetarian starter.

Rye Bay hand caught scallops were plump, utterly fresh and beautifully sweet. Searing gave them a caramelised crust, with soft, melting flesh. For my taste, the timing was perfect, but others might prefer a little more cooking. Perched on a creamy leek and Shiso fondue– the latter hardly detectable – this seafood starter needed a little more acidity and a contrasting crisp texture to be wholly satisfying.

As one of the main courses, I tried a signature “surf and turf” dish. Two generous, reformed portions of boneless oxtail bore all the successful hallmarks of marination in red wine and long, slow cooking.  The result was a rich, unctuous and highly flavoured meat wrapped in parma ham. On its own, with its sauce and a root and green vegetable, this would be fine. But to marry it with cold seafood, fruit and vegetables, sliced raw octopus, papaya and Cherokee tomato (in typical Brazilian style I’m told) made for an imbalanced dish of clashing tastes and temperatures. The dish may also have benefitted from a crisp texture to balance the softness of the other components.

A fish main course was simpler in conception but more successful because of it.  A thick tranche of fresh Scottish halibut was moist yet firmly textured. It was dressed with a butter and caper sauce, which added the rich sharpness the fish needed. The accompanying squid ink linguine added colour contrast and extra flavour.

For dessert, strawberry cheese cake was attractively presented like a classic Frasier. The Breton, sable like base was an improvement on crushed biscuits, whilst the dessert was well conceived.

Lime and raspberry sorbets were intensely flavoured and of the right consistency.

Service was pleasant enough with Gael acting as a charming host.

The aforementioned confused identity occasionally shows itself in the food. Primarily French in menu construct, one feels that to succeed fully Ozz may benefit from one of two food strategies –  “Internationalize” dishes to the full and execute well or retain a classical French restraint. The medium displayed at present is not quite a happy one, although overall, this was a satisfying meal.

How often have you eaten at a Michelin starred restaurant and the chef has not been there? The more stars, the greater likelihood of celebrity opportunities outside the kitchen, with the absent chef becoming an increasing phenomenon in the world of fine dining.

Not so at Le Champignon Sauvage, where David Everitt-Matthias has not missed a service since its opening in 1987. This amazing record – surely unmatched by chefs at this level – allied with excellent technical skill and creativity have produced food of a consistent stellar quality, earning him a first Michelin star in 1995, with a second in 2000.

The modest, unassuming personalities of both David and his charming wife Helen are reflected in the restaurant they first set up 1987.  Located in a semi residential area a short walk from Cheltenham’s town centre, Le Champignon Sauvage’s unremarkable two storey blue and white exterior merges unobtrusively into the parade of shops and restaurants either side. Indeed, the tiny entrance porch, where the menu is also displayed, can easily be missed by first time diners. Inside, the small bar with deep, comfortable leather settees leads to the main dining room on the right. Originally with 28 covers on nine tables, it doubled in size with the takeover of the picture framer’s next door in 2005. Despite this, and the increased demand following the second Michelin star five years earlier, it says much for the couple’s concern for the comfort of their diners that they decided only to add four extra tables and retain only one sitting.

David & Helen Everitt-Matthias

The décor and furnishings of the room combine elegant, traditional formality with splashes of contemporary design. The two toned walls of maple panelling and mushroom paint have a pleasing, soothing effect. Eclectic modern art and large mirrors enliven this background, adding to the sense of space. Wooden slated blinds over the sash windows give both light and privacy. Clever spotlighting at night allows dishes to be admired in all their glory.  Tables dressed in fine linen are well spaced, with the round ones on the left hand side of the restaurant made especially attractive with pleated under-cloths, pendant lighting and banquette seating.  Acoustics are excellent, with parts of the original dividing wall deflecting sound waves from the other half of the room.

Passion is a much overused and devalued word in gastronomic circles, but one that truly does apply in David’s case. Now, with some 35 years’ experience, he still talks enthusiastically about all aspects of food, as if he were new to the profession.  Whether creating new recipes, updating older ones, manning a busy service or passing on his wisdom to his small team, the overwhelming impression is of someone happiest in the kitchen. This is also literally true for diners, as, unlike many other Michelin starred chefs, he does not visit tables after service, preferring to let the food do his talking.

Such understatement has enabled him to keep a relatively low public profile amongst top chefs. Not that he treats television appearances with disdain, but is extremely selective and will only participate when the restaurant is closed.

Nevertheless, the high esteem in which he is held in the industry has led to numerous accolades.  In a career already distinguished by a host of awards, such as the 2007 Catey Chef of the Year, through to the current edition of the Good Food Guide when crowned their Chef of the Year.  A permanent feature of the major food guides, with four AA rosettes and 8/10 in The Good Food Guide, Le Champignon Sauvage’s position as one of the leading restaurants in the UK is assured.

At the heart of David’s modern French cuisine is the extraction and enhancement of flavour, encapsulated in the word “Essence” which is employed in the titles of two of his ground breaking cookbooks. The use of both classical and more modern techniques, the judicious addition of herbs and spices, and a willingness to experiment, adapt and refine, have all been to this end. He predates food trends such as the use of seasonal, British and locally sourced produce, nose to tail eating  and foraging  by at least ten years, and has embraced aspects of molecular gastronomy but not been overwhelmed by it. Whilst acknowledging the influence of his fellow chefs, David’s food retains his own individual stamp, its integrity having stood the test of time and fashion, and is all the better for it.

Flavour and texture combinations are always harmonious and often unusual, sometimes mixing luxurious with humble ingredients. Seared scallops with carpaccio of pig’s head, pressed terrine of rabbit with brown trout, and sea bream with baby squid and chorizo cream might all feature on the menu. The use of wild food, not for decoration but as an integral part of the dish, is also notable. Consider, for instance, butter poached dabs with wilted ground elder, stonecrop garnishing beef tartare or Cinderford lamb with dandelion

Attention to detail is exceptional. For example, flavoured foams are prevented from collapsing too quickly by the use of soya lecithin granules to stabilise them.  The preparation of leek ashes involves a complicated process of blanching, grilling, grinding and sieving to produce what is a small, but essential, part of a dish. The presentation of both sweet and savoury courses is exquisite, with a conscious artistry that avoids overcrowding the plate – white porcelain or dark stoneware – which themselves are carefully selected to showcase their contents.

For a two starred establishment, the menu structure and pricing offers excellent value for money. A set lunch and dinner (not Saturdays) menu is £26 for two courses, £32 for three with coffee and petit fours a mere £3 extra. The a la carte menu, with five or six options in each course, ranges from £48, £59 or £67 for two, three or four courses (dessert and cheese).  A seven course tasting menu with an amuse bouche and pre dessert is £85, a bargain compared with London restaurants of a similar or lower standard.

Fine-Dining-Guide visited on a busy Thursday evening in October and found an embarrassment of riches in the tasting menu.

Amongst a selection of delightful canapés were cubes of rich but not over salty parmesan custard coated with chorizo crumbs. These produced a veritable taste sensation. Miniature sweetcorn and bacon muffins were moist and flavoursome, whilst brioche crisps with nettle and goat’s cheese dip gave contrasting tastes and textures. Such delicious, original and labour intensive preparations at this early stage of the meal augured well for what was to follow.

How fitting, given the restaurant’s name, that the amuse bouche should feature a shot of warm honey fungus veloute topped with garlic foam, a classic combination of earthy and herby flavours that worked well together.

A favourite amongst the warm, home- made breads is the bacon brioche, suitably buttery, soft, light and crumbly. The granary, white and poppy seed alternatives all benefitted from a good bake, with crisp crusts and firm crumb.

Dexter beef tartare, with its marbled grain and darker colour, was accurately seasoned with a well-balanced mixture of capers, shallots, mustard and parsley, and bound with olive oil. The accompanying corned beef, involving more labourious, time consuming preparation, had a smoother texture with contrasting mouth feel but equally unctuous flavour. Garnishes of tiny pickled onions and Shimeji mushrooms, bread crisps and stonecrop stems gave contrasting flavours and textures, whilst the whole dish was lifted by a lively but overpowering wasabi cream.

A dish of utterly fresh Salcombe crab saw the sweet white meat spiked with herbs and dressed with a coconut veloute. In contrast, and true to his philosophy of using the whole animal to avoid waste, the crab jelly, made from the shells and brown meat, had a deep crustacean flavour. White asparagus gave an al dente crunch to a dish finished off with a herbal garnish.

Large, hand dived scallops form Scotland were precisely seared to produce a seared caramelised crust encasing soft, sweet flesh. Apple matchsticks and pickled beetroot gave a gentle, balancing acidity, whilst the inspired finishing touch was an apple puree with a hint of smokiness.

The next dish was the most inventive on the menu, using heritage vegetables as the star. Buttered Witchill potatoes, turned in leek ashes and set on a caramelised onion puree of sweet intensity, were offset by a mild buffalo milk jelly and seasoned by delicate slices of turkey prosciutto – another original preparation which testifies to the chef’s fertile imagination.

Cinderford, near the Forest of Dean, is the chef’s favoured source for lamb. The tender, fully flavoured and accurately seasoned chump was served with roasted sweetbreads, the soft milky texture of which complemented the main cut perfectly. Wilted dandelion with its caramelised root gave a gentle bitterness which balanced the orange and goat’s curd accompaniments.

With the savoury courses over, desserts can often be an anti-climax on tasting menus, another failing which Le Champignon Sauvage avoids. Indeed, given that David has devoted a whole book to desserts, this part of the meal offered extra excitement.

A pre-dessert featured damson parfait, the mild astringency of which was countered by a yogurt foam.

The first dessert featured Bergamot parfait, encased in a gel of bergamot and orange, and partnered with liquorice cream and orange jelly. This combination of Earl Grey tea fragrance, citrus and aniseed, topped with a liquorice tuile, was a veritable tour de force in conception and execution.

Chocolate delice with beurre noisette and butterscotch is a variation of one of  David’s classics – chocolate delice with salted caramel. Here the addition of beurre noisette added a certain nuttiness to the finished dish. The accompanying milk ice cream helped to moderate the rich bitterness of the chocolate.

This highly accomplished meal was not over yet. Given the succession of preceding courses, we could only admire if not consume the tray of petits fours served with expresso coffee.  Lime leaf chocolate truffles, bitter chocolate fudge, blackcurrant and liquorice jelly, and chicory macaroons might all  feature. Best of all is the miniature savarin, oozing with rum syrup and glazed with apricot jam. Together they put to shame the perfunctory specimens often served in many high end restaurants.

A meal at Le Champignon Sauvage is a real joy, not only because of the food. Guests are always assured of a warm, friendly welcome by Helen who guides her young front of house team with seamless efficiency.  Service, led by Justyna Juszczuk, is at once knowledgeable and solicitous, without being obtrusive.

Ultimately the success of Le Champignon Sauvage lies in a remarkable team effort, ably led by the chef patron. His sharing, caring qualities are seen in the mentoring of his small brigade of whom he is highly protective. Whether in the kitchen, front of house or foraging in the nearby countryside, those who work at the restaurant are given full credit, as seen in the photographs in his three cookbooks.

Le Champignon Sauvage moves from strength to strength. David’s most recent accolade, for Outstanding Contribution to Food in the 2013 Observer Food Monthly Awards, recognises his enviable achievement. But here is a chef not even at the top of his game as his seemingly inexhaustible creative energies and capacity to learn indicate there is so much more to give. The UK needs a three starred restaurant outside the south east and Le Champignon Sauvage is a strong contender.  We await the next Michelin guide with eager anticipation

The name, The Only Running Footman, conjures an image from another era, of a smartly liveried man servant perspiring at the hurried pace of his impatient master. This contrasts completely to the tranquillity of this historic Mayfair gastro pub and restaurant, which offers a relaxed haven for dining right in the frenetic heart of the West End.

On first appearances, the downstairs bar area seems to draw a sizeable number of after work regulars. Fine Dining Guide visited on a pleasant September evening when the crowd of drinkers spilled out onto the street in the classic London pose, pint in hand. Whilst downstairs very much feels like a thriving pub, the upper two floors have been converted into spaces for dining. The first floor dining room is an intimate space with about 70 covers. Soft furnishings, muted colours and dulled lighting all give the feel of a Victorian parlour, though pleasingly far more comfortable.

We were welcomed to our table by Magda, our warm and attentive host for the evening. She began with the unfortunate news that two of the predictably popular dishes – a ham hock and foie gras terrine and Onglet and chips – had regrettably run out so early in the evening – 8.00pm.  Nevertheless, the menu offered a number of interesting alternatives, including 3-4 other specials.

The Executive Chef, Eddie Kouadio, has over five years of service and has put together a menu of impressive breadth. There are almost a dozen options for main course, ranging from traditional pub grub through to more distinctive fayre.

Fine Dining Guide chose from the a la carte menu. Main courses varied from £15-£27, with starters and desserts typically around the £6-£9 mark. There is also a decent wine list with bottles from £20 through to £325, from which we selected a perfectly pleasant Sangiovese, Elqui Valley Chile, £27.50.

For the first course we both opted for seafood. The tian of Cromer crab with avocado comprised white meat interspersed with the avocado, leaves and dressing. This tasted very fresh, particularly when cut through with juice from an accompanying wedge of lime. However, it would have benefitted from  more seasoning, and, perhaps, have been more flavoursome if a little of the brown meat had been used.

The crispy squid with lime aioli was encased in a crispy batter which protected the delicate flesh, and together with the chilli, lime and coriander gave a fresh oriental kick.  As with the crab, more generous seasoning would have raised this dish from a good to an excellent one.

Bereft of the Onglet, we sought a bovine fix from a Cote de Beouf. This was accurately char-grilled to medium rare, maximising the succulence of the cut. Lip smacking roasting juices, reduced to intensify their smoky sweetness, did full justice to the beef. The intriguing “Stealth fries”, which turned out to be thin cut chips, failed to steal the show but were perfect partner for the meat.

We also sampled a Chicken and Mustard Pie. The mustard made for an innovative (for chicken) addition to the chicken filling, which was topped with an impressive dome of flaky pastry. Although a staple of any pub, the pie was well executed comfort food, an homage to an English classic.

Prior to dessert we decided to partake of the selection of British and French cheeses. This was well curated and comprised a number of classics such as Wigmore, Reblochon and Caerphilly. The cheeses were served in perfect condition of ripeness and temperature.

We finished the meal choosing from the tempting dessert menu. A highlight was the autumn fruit and nut crumble, a dish textured with perfectly cooked apple and a crunchy nut based topping. The sharpness of the fruit contrasted well with the sweet crumble. Our other choice, the passion fruit sorbet, was less of a triumph, lacking the lingering taste of this aromatic, sweet and astringent fruit.

As we finished our means and the tables emptied around us, it was apparent that the buoyant trade of the evening was a testament to what the team do well and the appreciative following they have established. The offering is not flawless and is trapped in the difficult territory between pub and fine dining. However, it is doubtless the case that the Only Running Footman is ahead of the many in the gastro pub pack.