As dining experiences go, a visit to Inamo is unique. Nowhere else can you choose your own virtual tablecloth – a rather psychedelic experience – or select food from a ‘drop down’ menu as opposed to a conventional laminated type. There is more, too. You can watch events in the kitchen through Chef Cam, play games, request the bill or order a taxi at the click of the touchpad. This is the world’s first interactive ordering system.

Interactive table placing at Inamo

The owners are a couple of Oxford graduates, committed to on going self-improvement for diners. CEO Danny Potter and Noel Hunwick, his business partner, decided to invest in this technology. They built a prototype which has evolved into a trademarked ordering system which is beamed down onto each table from an overhead p.c. and projector housed in a hexagonal case fitted to the ceiling.  It is a work of genius.

Although it is probably aimed more at the professional and technologically literate twenty or thirty something, the gizmos are accessible to all but the most ardent of technophobes. The background music also is not too loud, so that diners cannot easily talk and be heard.

The restaurant design is a mixture of new and traditional. The technology is offset by a calmness one might expect in an Asian botanical garden, a serenity enhanced by the backdrop, a delightful Japanese vertical water feature. Giant poles of bamboo and more elegant partitions separate different parts of the dining, private dining and bar areas.

Drinks, which can be taken at the long bar with high tables and stools, include an interesting range of sakes and shochus as well as indulgent cocktails. For instance, the white chocolate martini-Simply Cariel vanilla vodka and Mozart white chocolate – comes with a generous dose of sugar syrup that will delight those with a sweet tooth.

With all these diversions, and the large number of covers, the food might easily end up being an anti-climax of average mass catering.  Not so at Inamo. The quality of the oriental fusion dishes, featuring Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Korean and south east Asian influences, is impressive, both in their timing and balance of flavours and textures.

Sean Marshall, ably supported by Sebastian Francis, has been the Executive Chef at Inamo for three years as this Pan Asian restaurant has developed. Both  believe passionately in providing food which is both affordable but staying true to quality cuisine. The comfortable price point offers a winning formula in this quirkiest of establishments.

The menu encourages grazing with 19 small dishes, 12 larger dishes, eight sides and three desserts. Dim sum, sushi, sashimi, satay, and other Asian staples are well represented, including the ubiquitous duck with pancakes, albeit –as with other dishes – with the Inamo “twist”

All dishes serve two and, in true oriental style, appear in the order the kitchen prepares them. This can occasionally make for a crowded table unless ordering is staggered. On the night we visited the welcoming and efficient service was overseen by the delightfully engaging deputy manager Michele.

The restaurant frequently gets through 270-350 covers on Thursday to Saturdays and up to up to 400 covers on the busiest nights, turning over a table up to four times in a single evening.

Fine Dining Guide visited the St James branch but there is also a smaller one in Soho.

The first dish to arrive was also the most beautiful. A small plate of cherry tomatoes, marinaded in ginger, chilli and shallots, had a well-judged degree of sweetness, acidity and heat. Avocado, carved as a beautiful flower, gave a rich creaminess, adding to the exquisite, Japanese like presentation.

Two types of sushi Maki rolls were sampled. The first combined crisp pieces of soft shell crab with smooth avocado and fragrant chives. A fusion style dressing of creamy chilli mayonnaise worked well with the soft rice and tasty filling.

Tuna Maki featured tender and generously sliced fish with a filling of avocado and soft shell crab. Dressed with sesame seeds and herbs this delicate combination provided freshness of taste with textural contrast and, like the crab Maki, clean presentation.

A dish of soft, succulent tuna sashimi was enlivened by a crisp, refreshing shredded daikon salad.

Skewers of satay chicken were moist, tender and well flavoured – the result of skilful marinading and grilling. The accompanying peanut based dip had a richer flavour and crunchier texture – an improvement on those usually encountered elsewhere.

A trio of dainty Gyoza dumplings had light, thin wrappings with a well seasoned fillings of cod and prawn. Yuzu soya dressing gave a citrus lift that enhanced the seafood well.

A large bowl of seafood Ramen noodles was generous in its serving of prawns, shitake and enoki mushrooms, coriander and other vegetables. However, the broth itself, although scented with lime and lemon grass, proved rather bland, lacking depth of flavour. This was also a difficult dish to eat unless served with small bowls which were not offered.

On the other hand, a signature dish of  Miso and Yuzu salmon was outstanding.  A generous fillet, accurately timed to retain its succulence, was adorned with a gelatinous glaze of yuzu & wasabi spiced miso, which worked well with the fish without overwhelming its flavour. A lively pickled salad, with its sweet and sour notes, was a fitting accompaniment.

Beef on hot black stone allowed a little restaurant theatre, with diners cooking their own thin slices of rib eye. This was the choicest cut, with its marbling, giving a more succulent, flavoursome result.  Served with nam jim, teriyaki & Korean BBQ sauces, this was a deservedly popular dish.

Finally, an accomplished fusion dessert of vanilla crème brulee with strawberry and lemon grass syrup with raspberry jelly, allowed the only element of diary in the whole meal.

Overall, a meal at Inamo is a memorable experience for the novelty and not least for the food itself. Located in Lower Regent Street in the heart of the West End, on a site once occupied by St Alban, a celebrity haunt, it has all the advantages of location, state of the art technology and expertise in cooking. Having already made its mark on the capital’s dining scene, attracting a well-heeled clientele, it is likely to go from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.

With its ten bedrooms and fine dining restaurant, Fallowfields is set in 12 acres of grounds in Kingston Bagpuize, near Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The owner for the last 21 years has been Anthony Lloyd who, refreshingly unlike the anonymous proprietors of similar establishments across the country, lives on site and is fully engaged in the operations of this boutique country house hotel. Chatting with him before dinner, his near romantic vision and infectious passion – an overused word in gastronomic circles but undoubtedly true in his case – are fully revealed. These are shared by Matt Weedon, head chef since February 2013, who was keen to widen his experience beyond Michelin rated cooking into animal husbandry and cultivating fruit and vegetables.

“From field to fork” encapsulates the joint philosophy underpinning their food offering. Anthony Lloyd’s favourite chef outside his own establishment is Tom Kitchin whose similar outlook – From Nature to Plate – mirrors his own. Whilst many chefs pay lip service to the much vaunted buzzwords of seasonality, regionality, and sustainability in food provenance, at Fallowfields they are a reality. Here, the farm, the 200 tree orchard and kitchen garden, along with a select group of local suppliers, provide much of their fine produce. Usually self-sufficient in rare breed pork, farmed quail, hen’s eggs and Dexter beef – any extra of this specialist breed coming from Lin Blackwell’s farm near Wantage – the menu proudly lists local artisan suppliers such as duck from Andy Busby’s  Willow Farm Marcham, cheese from Well’s Store, Peach Croft farm, and game, eggs, eels and crayfish from Everleigh farm, Hampshire. The quality and traceability of the produce, combined with the skills shown in the kitchen, result in a cuisine of a very high standard indeed.

Matt Weedon’s modern British cookery has a fine pedigree. I first tasted his food at the Michelin starred L’Ortolan where he was head chef under Alan Murchison before moving Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire, where he gained a star in his own right. Unable to follow him there, I later enjoyed a particularly fine dinner at Lords of the Manor where he also gained star. These distinctions helped to rank him as one of the top 100 chefs in the country. Little wonder that in less than a year after joining Fallowfields his cooking was awarded three AA rosettes.

Showing skills rooted in a classical training with the addition of modern techniques, Matt’s accomplished cooking combines great clarity of taste, a harmonious balance of flavours and textures, and exquisite, sometimes playful, presentation. Quality produce is treated with the respect it deserves.  The timing of well-seasoned fish and meat is precisely judged. Saucing is a particular strength, with purees, foams and gels used in moderation, enhancing rather than overwhelming the main ingredient. For the same reason, maximum use is made of the kitchen garden’s seasonal vegetables and herbs. Portions are generous and dishes are often multi component, although the main ingredient always takes centre stage.

The menu structure and realistic pricing allows accessibility without the need for a mortgage. The carte, the content of which gradually changes with the seasons, comprises six starters (£14-£19), five mains (£26-£34), four desserts (£9-£10),  and a cheese option.(£11)  The six course tasting menu (£65) includes a selection from the carte with a flight of wine option at £35. By concentrating on a relatively small number of dishes, Matt and his team of five are able to refine and perfect their offering.

Managing the restaurant is Matt’s wife Rachel whose experience in high end hotels and restaurants, including Hambleton Hall, Blantyre, L’Ortolan, Glenapp Castle and Lords of the Manor, has stood her in good stead for her latest role, which also includes being the sommelier. She oversees an efficient young team providing a welcoming, friendly and knowledgeable service. Her own presentation of the wines is enthusiastic without being effusive.

The long, wooden floored restaurant itself has a decidedly fawn look with elements of traditional (wall lighting, luxurious drapes, framed pictures, fine napery) and modern (spotlighting, blinds, narrow, high backed seating). The generous sized tables are well spaced, adding to the overall semi-formal but relaxed feel of the room.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening in April.

Canapes comprised a light, velvety smooth wild garlic veloute and dainty Dexter beef cottage pies with crisp pastry. The clear flavours and attention to detail at this early stage of the meal augured well for the courses to come.

A fine selection of freshly home baked breads – white, granary, focaccia and brioche – showed exemplary crispness of crust and delicacy of crumb. It was pleasing also to see dripping offered in addition to olive oil and butter.

The first show stopper appeared as a box of Kitchen Garden Flavours: three amuse bouches showcasing home reared and grown products. Pig’s head croquette was at once soft and crisp, with a meltingly warm taste sensation and luxurious mouth feel. Apple puree and bacon marmalade helped to cut the richness. (My only regret was there was only one each, when I could have easily devoured a plateful.)  Artichoke and pear – an unusual but compatible combination of savoury and sweet – came as a silky ice cream in a delicate tuile cone. Crunchy radish with lovage yogurt had a more rustic look but provided in its vibrant simplicity a good counterpoint. In conception, execution and presentation, Kitchen Garden Flavours was a tour de force of inspired  creativity.

Two starters were sampled.

Duck liver ballotine had all the smooth creaminess that came from the finely tuned marinating, rolling and poaching of this delectable piece of foie gras. Served with a buttery toasted brioche, the richness of these elements was balanced by a tart cherry gel and sweet Maury jelly. Pistachio and almond granola added the necessary contrasting texture and fragrance.

(Wine: Maury, Grenat, Grenache Noir, Els Pyreneus, Roussillon, France, 201)

Another starter featured roasted home reared quail. Enhanced by a well-judged light smoke, it had a depth of flavour unusual in this miniature game bird. Sprouting broccoli was chargrilled to preserve its inherent sweetness, and carrot puree spiked with star anise lifted the dish. This successful combination was bought together by an intense quail sauce.

(Wine: Chateau de St Cosme, Cotes de Rhone Blanc, Gigondas, 2012)

An intermediate dish saw a plump diver Orkney scallop, precisely timed to produce a caramelised crust over moist, delicate flesh.  Braised chicken wing and bacon added more savoury flavours, with artichoke puree giving an earthy counterpoint to the surf and turf elements.

(Wine:Kung Fu girl Riesling, Charles Smith, Columbia Valley, Washington) State, 2012

The star of a main course of Dexter beef was the slow braised cheek, deeply flavoured, succulent and unctuous. Additional indulgence was provided by a cut of sirloin, firmer in texture but equally delicious. Soft pillows of horseradish gnocchi were a novel way of partnering beef with its traditional condiment as well as providing the necessary starch. A variety of garden vegetables including broad beans, peas, asparagus, onions, beetroot and crisp potato hoop offered a cornucopia of freshness to offset the rich meat. Cep puree added a fragrant, earthy element to the layers of flavour in this classical dish which was finished by a red wine sauce enriched with bone marrow spiked with tarragon.

(Wine: Chateau Bonnet reserve, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, France, 2009.)

Skill in fish cookery was seen in a fillet of pan fried Cornish line caught sea bass which was accurately timed with crisp skin and soft, meaty flesh. Scottish langoustine added a lively shellfish sweetness and braised fennel gave a gentle anisi lift which worked well with the seafood. Grilled artichokes provided an earthy balance. Finally, the plate was enveloped in a foaming langoustine and vanilla sauce and garnished with dots of roasted red pepper, both these elements singing with flavour.

(Wine: Vire-Clesse, Maison Albert Bichot, Cote Maconnais, Burgundy, 2012)

A pre dessert of pina colada foam and pineapple sorbet was zingy and refreshing

Desserts see the kitchen at its most original, with some spectacular results.

Warm blackcurrant soufflé, served in a copper pan, was a model of its kind:  fruity, light, fluffy and well risen. Then the inventive accompaniment: a deconstructed lemon meringue pie – pastry crumb, soft lemon curd, and glazed piped meringue –  served in a babycham glass; all this being crowned with an intense quenelle of blackcurrant sorbet. This playful interpretation of two retro classics also worked well in flavour and temperature combinations. My only gripe, and a minor one at that, is there needed to be little more crumb for textural contrast.

(Wine: Paul Cluver, Noble Late Harvest Riesling, South Africa, 2011)

A second dessert was even more creative. Marshmallow, shaped like a giant toadstool with a toasted cap, encased a smooth praline parfait and intensely astringent passion fruit curd. Passion fruit also came in the form of sorbet and gel, alongside dark chocolate custard, candied almonds, tiny meringues, cocoa nibs, praline tuile and chocolate soil. Again, taste, texture and temperature combinations in this multi component dish were well judged. Visually both desserts were stunning.

(Wine: Tokaji Aszu Blue 5 Puttonyos, Hungary, 2008.)

Even at the end of the meal, provenance and attention to detail are much in evidence. Wood roasted coffee from local artisan suppliers is the basis for the coffee menu, whilst 12 teas ranging from Assam to Mojito mint are also available. Both beverages have useful tasting notes to aid choice. Finally, ten varieties of chocolates and truffles are offered.

A meal at Fallowfields is a real joy and a memorable experience. A real team effort, both inside and outside the kitchen, the end product is something of which all those involved can feel proud. Far from being “unused”, “unseeded” and “undeveloped” – all dictionary synonyms for “fallow” – Fallowfields is a hive of activity, with the “seeds” being sown for future success. Michelin has yet to grant a star, but this can only be a matter of time given Matt Weedon’s previous record and his current achievement. Fine Dining Guide will follow Fallowfields’ progress with interest.

Tinello, Italian for a small dining room, is the perfect name for Federico and Max Sali’s unpretentious but attractive restaurant in Pimlico.  The tinted glass frontage under a smart black awning leads to a long, dark dining room. Exposed brickwork, wooden flooring and low hanging copper pendant lights over each table create an intimate, semi rustic feel, accentuated by the shady colour scheme and well-spaced, simply dressed tables.

Diners are quickly put at their ease with relaxed formal service. The front of house staff, led by brother Max, are courteous, informative and eager to please, but not ingratiatingly so. The clientele is composed mainly of locals, many of them regulars, although Tinello’s reputation is now attracting diners from further afield. Family eating in true Italian style is also encouraged.

Simplicity and honesty, the hallmarks of classic Italian cuisine, are fully exemplified in the cooking at Tinello. Dishes from the menu range widely across the Italian peninsula, although there is a Tuscan slant to many. When asked which dish on the menu summed up the essence of his cooking, Federico named Pappardelle alle erbe, ragu di anatra in bianco (Homemade herb pasta ribbons, duck ragout.)

The use of the finest ingredients is a prerequisite, but there is no obsession about sourcing everything from Italy. Whilst, for example, aubergines, lemons, tomatoes, cheese, cured meats, oils and balsamic vinegar are imported,  full respect is paid to the high quality produce from the UK, including, for instance, Cornish fish. The brothers’ experience working at Locanda Locatelli and Zafferano has also enabled them to build contacts with some excellent British suppliers.

Prices for this affluent part of London – two minutes from Sloane Square – are surprisingly reasonable and represent excellent value for money. The menu includes four antipasti; ten small eats (£1.95 to £6.50); eight pasta dishes (£10 to £18.50); seven mains (£17.50 to £26.50); 6 desserts (£3.90 to £13.50)  and one cheese course.(£8.50). Shunning the culinary haughtiness of more stuffy restaurants, Chef Federico is flexible in the preparation of dishes, adapting them to the diner’s preference on the rare occasions when this is requested.

After nibbles and a refreshing glass of Prosecco, we sampled four small plates.

A chicken liver crostini, (Crostini con il “fuagra” toscano), was rich, well- seasoned and deeply flavoured. Together with the soft and crisp textures, this simple best-selling preparation proved a highly satisfying starter.

Mortadella sausage, properly fatty and spicy, was served with gnocco fritto, fried bread dough which puffed up like small pillows – visually interesting if somewhat bland tasting.

Delicious courgette ribbons had been coated in a light batter and fried until crisp. Strangely, the presentation of this popular dish resembled the Medusa’s snake infested head!

A special of the day featured well timed sprue asparagus, sauced by the yolk of a soft poached egg, and seasoned by a parmesan tuile. This was a delightful, well balanced combination, making the most of prime seasonal produce.

Next, we tried a pasta dish, Paccheri astice e fave. The robust tubular pasta was cooked al dente and served with succulent lobster and fresh broad beans in a rich but light sauce. The precise timing of both the humble and extravagant elements, together with the textural contrast, allowed their inherent qualities to shine through.

Two main courses were sampled. Filetto d`ippoglosso, rape bianche, barba di frate e salsa all`arancio   saw perfectly cooked halibut fillet, matched with braised turnips and monk’s beard.  The rich mineral notes and crunchy texture   of the samphire like vegetable added  taste and textural interest while a light blood orange sauce successfully brought the various elements together

In Petto d`anatra arrosto, topinambur e spinaci novella, the crisp skinned and medium rare duck breast  – as preferred in Italian cooking – was succulent and flavoursome. Accuracy in judging cooking and resting times was clearly evident. A puree of Jerusalem artichokes added an earthy richness, wilted baby spinach gave a vibrant freshness and a light jus rounded off the dish.

The skill of the pastry section was shown in desserts which included a fine tiramisu, layered in a sundae glass, fruit sorbets and a cake like apple tart with chocolate ice cream. Classic Cantucci Biscotti dipped in Vin Santo sweet wine proved an attractive alcoholic alternative.

Espresso served with crisp choux pastry beignets stuffed with Zabaglioni completed a memorable meal.

Clearly from the lunchtime buzz, Tinello has established itself as a thriving neighbourhood restaurant serving a well-heeled clientele who appreciate its accomplished cooking, welcoming service and unstuffy atmosphere. Driving the restaurant forward are brothers Max and Federico. Unfortunately, Max was away when we visited but we were able to chat with Federico whose engaging manner and passion for his craft were abundantly evident. These qualities are reminiscent of Giorgio Locatelli, his mentor and financial backer, with whom – and this must have been said by many – he bears an uncanny resemblance. Given the brothers’ extensive experience in high end Italian establishments, Tinello can only go from strength to strength, developing into a destination restaurant. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.

Heading down Edgware Road from Praed Street to Marble Arch, it is easy to feel a creeping fatalism. The area is rightly noted for its Middle Eastern restaurants, with garlanded food stores and smoky hookah bars vying for attention. The epicurean opportunities are familiar and not unattractive, but my destination on a Monday evening was not far from this familiar scene.

I continued my walk into Upper Berkeley Street which straddles the Marylebone area east of the Edgware Road and north of Oxford Street. Apart from a number of well known hotels such as The Churchill, it is without significant landmarks and the streets are eerily quiet even by 7pm. It is therefore with some relief that I find myself in the oasis of lights at Sixtyone Restaurant.

In fact the location of this new restaurant which, I am sure, will soon be a foodie destination, is not as out the way as it might seem. There are two entrances, a designated one off Upper Berkeley Street and the other through the Montcalm Hotel. The restaurant takes its name from the former.

Launched in November 2013, this is the eagerly anticipated debut of Chef Patron Arnaud Stevens. With the financial backing of Searcy’s (of Champagne bar fame), the restaurant has in Arnaud someone of impeccable heritage. With stints working with such giants as Pierre Koffmann, Marco Pierre White and Richard Corrigan, and latterly himself as Executive Head Chef at the Gherkin, the opportunity for Arnaud to go it alone has long been overdue. Searcy’s can surely spot an opportunity for success.

The interior of Sixtyone exudes understated elegance with its comfortable chairs and banquettes, excellent lighting, and spacious layout. There are also quirky and inventive features, notably a large tubular copper set of lights that hang intriguingly above the tables like the innards of a Wurlitzer machine.

This aspect of the décor clearly reflects a sense of fun which seems to be the zeitgeist running through Arnaud’s vision.

The courteous, welcoming service is overseen by Artan Mesekrani whose extensive experience in high end restaurant management makes for interesting, nostalgic conversation.

The menus at Sixtyone are enticing yet unpretentious, offering excellent quality without a serious attack on the wallet. Starters are all £10 or less and include options such as Octopus Carpaccio, Dorset Oyster or Smoked Mallard Salad. There is also a choice of seven main courses, all under £20 and including, for example, Braised Beef Cheek with Black Pudding, Slow Cooked Sea Bream or Potimarron Gnocchi with Chanterelles. Due diligence is paid to provenance without being evangelical. As Arnaud later explained, the focus is on delivering absolute quality – the pretentions are to be left to others.

The options are all very appealing and as we begin the painful deliberation over our selection we find salvation in the tasting menu. Not only does this include a number of the options from the carte, it is also exceptional value at £45 for six courses (or £75 with wines).

Our taste buds are initially whetted by the house aperitif, a Sparkling English Rose by Balfour. The crisp dry flavours perfectly complemented by the arrival of breads and what is described on the menu as ‘snacks’.

Sample Dish at Sixtyone – Sea Bream

Amongst the homemade breads was a wonderfully rich cep brioche and a tangy marmite bread, both unusual but immediately pleasing.

Serving the ‘snacks’ gave an opportunity for a piece of restaurant theatre which was highly revealing of the playfulness of the menu. A conical flask, lined with filter paper, was placed on our table. Into this the waitress began to scoop large spoonfuls of porcini granules, adding Dashi stock for us to witness the infusion and percolation process. The finished result was a liquid with an intense mushroom flavour. This was served alongside a soft and deeply flavourful mushroom parfait, silky smooth, a quenelle of perfection!

Already it was becoming clear that our preconceptions would be challenged. Although the menu listed ingredients, the descriptions of each course were terse and there was to be an element of surprise as each dish arrived.

The next course was described as Mussels, Bread Soup and Suckling Pork Belly. The mussels were enrobed by the creamy rich Polaine based soup. At the centre of the dish, the belly was the sweetest and softest of meat, with a delicate crisp skin. Melting into the soup was a quenelle of white chocolate ganache, the sweetness of which perfectly complemented the other ingredients. The dish was a real triumph of gastronomic acumen – a perfect, if unusual, combination of flavours and textures. The accompanying  Bacholet Monnot Burgoyne Blanc 2011, with its chalky minerality, did full justice to the food

Next came the intriguing Rabbit Bolognese, Salsify and Almond. When this arrived it resembled classic Spaghetti Bolognese, the pasta sitting on a bed of ragout and the dish of almond resembling finely grated parmesan. An initial taste revealed the pasta to be salsify, but when the almonds were sprinkled on top of the rich, heavily reduced ragout, it was hard to believe this wasn’t a traditional but excellent “spag bol.” The clever presentation of the dish managed to trick both the eyes and the taste buds! Additional texture was provided by thyme croutons, a pleasing contrast to the softer components of the dish.  The wine pairing was a very pleasant Chianti Classico.

From the rabbit we moved on to a dish of Roasted Cod with Garbure Vegetables. The rustic vibrancy of chunky carrots and potatoes cooked with kale in a saffron stock contrasted with the opaque flesh of the fish which had been accurately timed to showcase its beautiful fresh flavour and flaky texture.  The addition of the Alsace bacon lifted the whole dish which was at once both a hearty and refined. The accompanying elegant Pinot Noir, Burgoyne Valet Freres Gevrey Chambertain. 2010, had a pure finish and velvety texture.

For the final savoury course we were treated to Squab Pigeon with Snails, Cauliflower and Parsley Risotto. The pigeon, precisely timed and well rested to showcase its gentle gaminess and melting texture, sat on a bed of silky cauliflower puree. The snails, suitably chewy but not tough, were classically paired with parsley, which came in a brilliantly green and well seasoned risotto. With contrasting textures from the al dente creamy rice and crisp puffed rice garnishes, this was a highly original presentation. This accomplished dish, showing high levels of skill and creativity, was enjoyed a beautiful Sicilian Cristo de Campobello Rosso 2011.

The dessert featured Rhubarb with White Chocolate and ginger. Visually  impressive, with a riot of pinks, red and amber along a linear arrangement, it centred on a white chocolate bombe, encasing rhubarb compote. Although slightly oversweet and cloying, it was balanced by the acidity of the smooth rhubarb sorbet. Similarly, the warmth of ginger added a muted spicy element to the sweet and acidic elements. This final course managed to surpass expectations and, like the rest of the menu, deliver something different, exciting and fun. The accompanying dessert wine was a classic Muscat de Beaume de Venises, Le Chant de Griolles Paul Jaboulet Aine 2011.

The sense of the familiar and predictable which started my evening, was dispelled by dinner at Sixtyone. Through his menu Arnaud Stevens takes classic technique and flavour combinations, but somehow twists these into something different and unpredictable. His playfulness with the presentation and the arrangement of each dish builds a real sense of excitement and anticipation at the table.

The real strength of Arnaud’s cooking is that at no point does style take over from substance. In getting this balance right, Arnaud has managed to successfully walk a tightrope that many have tried and failed. Continuing in this way, Sixtyone is deserving of the commercial success to match its culinary excellence. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.

The Camellia Restaurant, renovated in 2008, comprises three interconnecting rooms serving 80 covers. Above the handsome embossed oak panelling, the bold patterned wallpaper of red camellias on a white background envelops the room. These features give the room a  traditional, heavy feel, reinforced by the mirrors which reflect the camellia pattern on the opposite wall, and the grand copper chandelier  style lighting. A contemporary floor to ceiling book case and display cabinet  at one end is balanced by a more old fashioned plate dresser, displaying replicas of some in the British Museum, at the other. Supremely comfortable Louis XV style chairs are arranged around well spaced tables dressed in fine napery.

This is the dining room which showcases the cuisine of Steven Edwards, winner of the Masterchef, The Professionals, 2013. What is less known is that he had previously won the Sussex Young Chef of the year in 2010.

Having worked in a variety of two and three AA rosette hotel restaurants, he joined The Pass Restaurant at South Lodge in 2008. He reached the positon of Junior Sous Chef in 2010, before being promoted to Head Chef of the Camellia in 2012.  Steve’s clear ability prompted Executive Chef Lewis Hamblet to push Steve into applying for the prestigious BBC series.

Conscious that it was not just his, but also the Exclusive Hotels’ reputation on the line, Steve understandably felt pressure, especially in the first week of the competiton when an early exit might have brought negative publicity.

Masterchef, The Professionals, allowed Steve to showcase his own unique style in creating dishes around a few humble, seasonal and local ingredients – some from the hotel’s kitchen garden – using technique and creativity to extract maximum flavour from each element. The duck and broccoli main course he cooked in the semi final, epitomizes this philosophy. For the final, time was limited in deciding what to cook, although he was confident that crab orzo and his dessert of honey cake were strong contenders. The pigeon and stone bass, which he opted for later, helped to balance the menu perfectly.

Apart from the euphoria of winning, Steve’s high point of the series was his trip to Italy and cooking with Massimo Bottura. Although very different from his own, this Italian maestro’s style provided invaluable inspiration and encouragement.

In his own kitchen at the Camellia, a team of eight chefs address the demanding task of  serving breakfast, lunch  and dinner seven days a week, catering for up to 120 guests. Team work here is essential for as Steve says “you are only as strong as your weakest chef, so there is a real drive to share information and get things double checked.” Communication using SOP’s and a kitchen drop box is well developed, he is investigating the possibility of installing ipads to improve this even more.

The increase in demand for tables at the  Camellia after his Masterchef success has been gratifying but sometimes difficult to satisfy, given its position as the house restaurant. Many opt for the winning menu which has been offered since November 2013 and will continue to the end of March 2014. In the long term, Steve hopes the Camellia will be seen as a dining option for local residents and those from further afield. With his confidence boosted by his Masterchef  success, Steve’s vision for his future career has become a more realistic target. Fine Dining Guide wish him every success and will follow his career with interest.

Opting for Steve’s winning menu and three dishes from the carte and daily menu, proved to be a wise choice.  Sour dough bread has a well developed tang with crispy crust and firm crumb. An amuse bouche of silky smooth cauliflower veloute was given a lift by the addition of toasted parmesan crumbs.

The first course, Anjou Pigeon breast, was carefully seasoned and pan fried to showcase its gentle gamey flavour. The timing of the cooking and resting was accurately judged, producing a soft, almost melting texture, avoiding the liver like flavour and consistency that results from overcooking. The accompaniments, baby beetroot (roasted then pickled sous vide), and diced feta, (frozen then bruleed with sugar to counter its saltiness), proved ideal foils in taste and texture  for the rich game. Apple puree added a lively sweet acidity, watercress gave a herby note and added colour, and beetroot vinaigrette brought the dish together. The clear flavours and clean presentation  of this dish captured the essence of Steve’s cooking philosophy –maximising the flavour of humble ingredients with skilful technique and imagination. (Wine: Eric Louis, Sancerre Rouge, 2011, Loire)

Stone Bass, now increasingly seen on menus, has proved just as versatile as its more expensive, grandiose Sea Bass cousin. Typically the humbler fish was the focus of the main couse. A beautifully fresh fillet was simply pan fried to crisp the skin and showcase the soft, translucent flesh. This rested on a bed of orzo, the soft grain like pasta being mixed with white crab meat and shellfish stock, these given extra richness with parmesan and butter. However, the most creative aspect of this dish was the much underused Kohlrabi, served in three ways – blackened in a pan (deliberately), poached in a water bath and pureed with cream and butter. The contrasting crisp and soft textures and delicate and bold flavours added gave an earthy counterpoint to the fish and crab orzo.  A lime foam- which did not collapse immediately – was not a superfluous garnish but added the vital citrus note which the dish needed. Overall, this was a tour de force of harmonious elements with imagination and sensitivity. As with the pigeon, the presentation of this dish was stunning. (Wine: Citari Lugana di Tressiano, 2010 Italy)

In the last course, pistachio was the least humble ingredient used. In its crumbed and crystallised garnishes, it gave textural complexity to a dessert focussing on honey cake. Based on flour, ground almonds and honey, the inspired used of beurre noisette gave it added depth of flavour and colour. A compote of roasted peaches added a contrasting fruity element, whilst a velvety smooth yoghurt sorbet – an adaptation of the original recipe which used a yoghurt espuma – finished the dish with a refreshing tangy coldness.

Other dishes sampled included a starter of duck breast with rhubarb, parsnip, honeycomb form the carte; an chicken escalope with quinoa, pak choi and a red wine jus from the set menu; and a mango parfait with coconut sorbet, also from the set menu. As with the Masterchef menu,they all demonstrated careful thought in the combination of ingredients, precision in the timing of cooking using a variety of techniques, and a conscious artistry in presentation.

Overall, Steve Edwards has created a cuisine of which he and  the hotel can be justifiably proud. Given the brilliance – both in conception and execution  – of the winning menu, his victory in Masterchef, The Professionals was richly deserved.

L’Anima translates from the Italian as ‘soul’. Certainly, nourishment for the soul as well as the body is offered in abundance by this accomplished Italian fine dining establishment. Since opening in June 2008, Chef and owner Francesco Mazzei has rightly been lauded by both diners and critics alike.

The restaurant, which is located conveniently close to Liverpool Street station, borders trendy Shoreditch and is in the heart of London’s financial centre; the gleaming towers of RBS are just around the corner. L’Anima occupies the lower level of what seems like a nondescript modern building. However the restaurant transforms the ground floor into a light and airy Mediterranean oasis. One feels like Mr Benn entering into his famous shop, then being transported to some exotic corner of the globe.

The dining room itself is mostly furnished in white with large floor to ceiling windows around a 270 degree circumference. One side has views of the kitchen, providing a glimpse of the masters at work. The bar area, by contrast, is set to a darker tone and offers an alternative intimate dining space.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Monday evening in March.  Marco and the team offered a warm and hospitable welcome and were on hand to offer expert guidance on the menu. The cooking is inspired by the Mezzogiorno, with fresh and vibrant flavours. Simple, boldly flavoured and clean tasting dishes nevertheless involve a careful balance of tastes and textures, accurate timing and beautiful presentation. Sourcing is important, with the best of British and Italian ingredients treated sensitively and with imagination. A glossary of terms at the bottom of the menu helps to demystify some of the less familiar offerings.

In true Italian style we began with an Aperitivi.  The Milano Torino is a classic combination of Campari with Red Vermouth, served on the rocks. The seasonal bellini on this occasion combined green apple with prosecco, for clean, crisp flavours.

Faced with an embarrassment of choice and acute fear of missing out on signature dishes, we were delighted to be offered the guidance of Sous Chef Antonio Favuzzi.

We had the pleasure of sampling three of the dishes from the starter menu, which ranges in price from £12 to £18. The first dish was Frito Misto, an amazing construction of soft shell crab, prawns, calamari, gurnard and a baby grey mullet arranged on the plate with architectural finesse. Accompanying the sea food where strips of fried courgette and meltingly crisp sage leaves. The fish was coated in a soft batter, which was cut through with lemon juice and accompanying chilli. The freshness and simplicity of the dish made this a real pleasure and evoked memories of the seaside – one could almost hear the lapping waves!

The other dishes from the starter menu were equally triumphant. The Octopus a la plancha was served with pearl barley, ’Duja (a type of spicy sausage), ricotta mustia, broccoli and paprika oil. The octopus itself was beautifully soft and meaty and the gentle saltiness of the ricotta was balanced perfectly by the heat of the paprika oil.

The Battuta Di Manzo, our other starter, initially seemed a mellower affair. The raw beef was of excellent pedigree, but really  came to life when tasted with the accompanying Bottarga (fish roe) and anchovy sauce. These added an intensity of flavour, perfectly complementing the beef. A sprinkling of large arugula leaves provided the final peppery seasoning.

Throughout the meal the attentive Fabrizio was on hand to offer advice on suitable wines to accompany our food. We started with Riflesso Rosi 2012. 50% cabernet and 50% merlot, this was a light red wine with fresh and fruity flavours, making it an excellent match for both the fish and the meat dishes.

Of course no Italian meal would be complete without pasta, and L’Anima prides itself on the expert delivery of this staple. The Pasta and Risotto menu provides an exciting range of options for a main or intermediary course, and other than Gnocchi with Lobster, are all priced around £16.

We sampled a Tortelli with Stracciatella, Ricotta, Brown Butter and Hazelnuts. Tortellini is a type of small round stuffed pasta, normally associated with northern Italy. These larger Tortelli were generously filled and when cut, the two cheeses of the filling gently oozed out onto the plate. This was creamy with a slight acidity, perfectly offsetting the beurre noisette and the sweetness of the accompanying ‘Famiglia Gottardi’ aged balsamic. This was a dish for all the senses, with a wonderful perfume of white truffle filling the air.

Seriously impressed, we moved on to sample two of the main courses. We sadly lacked the capacity to try the Rabbit Siciliana, which was so highly praised by Jay Rayner of the Observer. Instead we opted for the Fish Stew and Black Scotch Beef Tagliata. Main courses range in price from £15 to £32.50.

The Fish Stew was a wonderful collection of Fruitti di Mare, including lobster, sea bass, prawns and mussels. These were set on a rich bed of tomato and Fregola, a small couscous like pasta. The fish and shellfish were accurately timed, maximising their delicate flavour which was complimented, rather than being overpowered by the fresh, punchy sauce.

The final savoury course was Black Scotch Beef Tagliata, served with bone marrow, Blue Di Capra and a Magliocco sauce. The ‘tagliata’ element of the dish refers to the way the beef had been sliced. This sat atop a tower set of bone and mashed potato, making for yet another playful presentation. The beef was meltingly tender and full of flavour. The bone marrow and blue cheese both offered a complimentary richness, making every mouthful truly joyful. The Magliocco sauce, a reduction from the Calabrian wine, was not predominant yet brought the other elements together in a rounded way.

We finished with a Bergamot Soufflé, served with a berry compote and chocolate sorbet. The soufflé was light and airy, with subtle citrus flavours, providing the perfect canvass for the dark chocolate sorbet and tart compote. The sorbet, gently slipped into the soufflé by the server, created a wonderful melange with the aroma of chocolate orange, a truly harmonious combination.

Coffee and petit fours completed an outstanding meal.

It is clear that Francesco Mazzei has taken his extensive experience  in Italy and England – the latter including The Dorchester, Hakkasan, Franco’s (in Jermyn Street) and St Alban – to reach a height of accomplishment with his own offering. That the great and the good at Michelin have so far failed to recognise this seems an injustice that surely must be corrected. Fine Dining Guide will watch the progress of L’Anima with interest.

A meal at The Garden Room Restaurant is something you selfishly want to keep secret. Once news of Craig van der Meer’s superb cuisine spreads, securing a table becomes more difficult. On the other hand, you cannot resist telling others, celebrating his food and encouraging them to go. Having visited several times, I reluctantly succumbed to the latter.

The Garden Room is the fine dining restaurant of Stoke Place, a well preserved country house hotel built in the classic William and Mary style of the late 17^th century. For many years the family home of high ranking aristocracy, it eventually became a private hotel in 2005.

Chef: Craig van der Meer

The wooden floored room itself is a light and airy space. The walls, lined with pastel blue paneling up to dado level, are enveloped in a bold green vine pattern against a  white  background which is very heavy on the eye. The decor is more suited to fine weather, when the open sash windows allow a gentle breeze to waft through the room.  In winter, given the absence of curtains and blinds, it adds to the coldness of the room. The furniture is a mix of designer tables of varying shapes, size and colours, with upholstered Bauhaus chairs. Lighting is provided by wall lanterns, supplemented by standard lamps. Modern country house the design certainly is, but is it a sufficiently luxurious for showcasing cooking of this quality?

Fine dining in top end hotels dominates Craig’s impressive CV, which includes being Sous Chef at the celebrated Five star Arabella Hotel and Spa near Cape Town in his native South Africa. In England, he refined his skills at Langshott Manor and Frimley Hall Hotel and Spa before becoming Sous Chef at Stoke Place. His undoubted creative and organisational ability led to promotion as Head Chef after just one year. Accolades, including three AA Rosettes within 18 months of joining the AA Restaurant Guide, and entries in The Good Food and Michelin Guides, confirmed his position on the British gastronomic map.

While the hotel’s website describes Craig’s food as modern British, inventive and seasonal…Seasonal and locally sourced ingredients are used to create interesting versions of traditional fare,” it gives little indication of the range of classical and contemporary techniques employed. When used, the sous vide method is applied without the use of cream or stocks, keeping tastes of main ingredients natural and pure, even if rendered in different ways. The precision of timing; the harmonious combination of flavours, textures and temperatures; and the conscious artistry of the presentation all contribute to the exciting vibrancy of the cuisine. From conception to completion, this is the labour intensive, creative gastronomy of a highly talented chef.

Dishes can feature unusual ingredients such as mizuna, mooli, chakalaka, Cape gooseberry and bee pollen, with garnishes such as gels, spheres, and foams adding to the overall interest of the cuisine.

The relatively short carte of five starters, five mains, four desserts and one cheese option allows each dish to be given maximum attention to ensure consistency. Pricing makes dining in the Garden Room reasonably accessible. Two courses from the carte cost £35, with three for £45. The eight item Tasting Menu costs £55, with a flight of six wines for £35 more. Cooking of this quality in central London would be half as much again. The impressive 361 wine list features a wide variety of wines by the glass carafe with variations to match seasonal changes in the menu.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening in March. Understandably not as busy as at weekends, when there can be 40-60 diners, (with the overflow dining room coming into use), nevertheless the 24 cover restaurant deserves a larger weekday audience.

Three homemade breads were exemplary in their crisp crusts and firm crumb. The Guinness bread was outstanding in its dark malty sweetness and the white truffle bread had a pleasingly light texture.

It is rare to be offered more than one amuse-bouche; here the chef had the confidence to serve two:

Pumpkin espuma and curried banana was suitably smooth with added crunch from a granola of pumpkin seed.

A velvety smooth lemon grass sorbet with pickled ginger and lime meringue crisp was a fragrant palate cleanser.

An inventive “surf and turf” starter featured smoked eel and Serrano ham, their moist saltiness combining well in deep fried croquettes. Passion fruit foam and puree cut the richness, while thinly sliced pickled kohlrabi added contrasting taste and texture.

Another successful starter was scallops prepared two ways: accurately seared to produce a caramelised crust with moist, sweet flesh; and a tartare of lively freshness and delicacy. Charred cauliflower florets and peanut puree added texture and a wasabi “sphere” gave a well- judged, not overpowering, lift to the seafood.

Grilled lobster tail was accurately timed to produce a gentle smoky flavour and succulent texture. Smooth parsnip puree and al dente purple and golden beetroot added contrasting earthy textures and flavours, and apple puree gave a sweet acidity. This visually stunning dish was a brilliant combination of tastes, textures and temperatures.

A terrine of rabbit, using different cuts of the animal, was moist, flavoursome and well pressed, giving a mosaic effect.  Contrasting in texture and flavour was a rich, creamy torchon of foie-gras.  Spicy cubes of chorizo lent a spicy note, although the molecular “snow” added more colour than flavour. The piquant pepperiness of the unusual mizuna leaf acted as an extra seasoning. Melon puree and jelly provided the sweet element the dish needed.

Main courses continued the themes of invention, attention to detail, clear tastes and clean presentation.

Venison from Everleigh farm in Sussex was accurately seared and fully rested, giving a soft, almost melting texture and a mild gamey flavour. Sharp cape gooseberry compote proved an ideal foil for the rich meat. Celeriac puree and caramelised endive added a sweet earthiness of contrasting textures, whilst a red wine jus successfully bought the various elements together.

Pan fried wild sea bass had a crisp skin, firm white flesh and delicate flavour. Perched on a bed of soft, buttery samphire, it married well with a creamy vanilla and corn puree flecked with crayfish. Purple potato added colour and substance to this well balanced dish.

A pre dessert of black pepper and cream cheese sherbert, raspberry,  and compressed pineapple was at once light, fruity and refreshing.

Desserts are given a much care and attention as starters and mains.

Freshly prepared cinnamon doughnuts were amazingly light, warm and delicately spiced. Smooth ginger bread ice cream, set alongside spiced poached pear, gave contrasting flavour, texture and temperature.  This composite dessert benefitted from a final crunch and sweet lift with the addition of honeycomb.

A cheese alternative came in the form of an Oxford Blue roll, the creamy consistency and sharp, clean flavour of which was given added interest with pumpkin seeds. These also formed the crisp base of caramelised brittle on which the roll rested. Coffee gel and cubes of kiwi fruit jelly gave extra colour and flavour to this playful dish – a good choice for those who cannot decide between cheese and dessert.

Good coffee and petit fours of milk and dark chocolates and fruit jellies completed a highly accomplished meal, made more enjoyable by courteous, informative and efficient service.

It is clear that Craig and his team are producing refined, cutting edge food, with a wealth of innovation and experimentation. We will return to sample other dishes such as Lamb Canon with basil, homemade feta and chakalaka or Hake with honey and yellow carrot jelly, bee pollen, fennel and horseradish, confident they will surprise and delight. In our view this is Michelin star cooking, it only being a matter of time before this accolade is awarded. Fine Dining Guide will follow the restaurant’s progress with interest.

The last time I ate in Summertown was in 1980, when a friend and I drove the 30 miles from Maidenhead to have dinner at Raymond Blanc’s ground breaking restaurant, Les Quat’ Saisons. We had turbot and lobster terrine, roast duck with honey and cloves, and raspberry soufflé, three courses so superbly executed they are clearly memorable today.

Since then, when Oxford was firmly established on the fine dining map, the fortunes of this university city have ebbed and flowed. There have been the occasional high profile openings – witness Le Petit Blanc further down the Banbury Road, and Brasserie Blanc in Jericho, also in the 80s – but little of serious note. In the nineties and noughties the restaurant scene stagnated. Blanc himself now has little to do with the places that still bear his name, luxuriating instead at Le Manoir in Great Milton. For some years, a plethora of mid-market chains serving mediocre meals have dominated the city’s restaurants, making eating out a dull and predictable experience.

Thus, Oxford food yearns for a much needed boost. This is why the recent opening of The Oxford Kitchen may well signal the start of a timely revival of the city’s gastronomic fortunes. (In this context, compare the worldly and sophisticated Oxford with the supposedly more puritanical Cambridge, which now boasts two Michelin starred restaurants.)

The restaurant’s location in Summertown on the Banbury Road, a mile from the city centre, is ideal for both Oxford residents, and close enough to the ring road to attract foodies from further afield. Indeed, the long term aim is to make The Oxford Kitchen both a neighbourhood and destination restaurant. The current site in a shopping parade might seem undistinguished, but we mustn’t forget that in 1977 Raymond Blanc’s original restaurant opened in the parade of shops opposite, between the Oxfam HQ and a lingerie store! As they say, “From small acorns…”

With a seating capacity of 36 downstairs and 55 on the first floor, there is enough space to accommodate the 80 + covers on Saturday nights. This is impressive for a restaurant open for just two months. During the week, ladies who lunch, businessmen and residents from this prosperous northern Oxford suburb, with its Edwardian villas and modern private housing, keep the kitchen busy. Weekends often see families, partly attracted by the new Kids’ menu, helping to fill the restaurant.

The low ceilinged, air conditioned downstairs room has a suitably contemporary edge, with partly bare bricked walls, and wood and stone flooring. High backed brown leather banquettes and a variety of upholstered and plain wooden chairs offer a variety of comfortable seating. Bare tables benefit from wall, pendant and spotlighting, which, thankfully, are not turned down to ridiculously low levels in the evening. The larger upstairs room has a brighter plusher look, with a slightly more formal feel.

Chef John Footman and Manager Tom Wood

Executive Chef John Footman and Head Chef Gerd Greaves are not aiming specifically for Michelin accolades, although their CVs, which include stints at Michelin starred kitchens of Le Manoir, L’Ortolan and The Nut Tree Inn in Murcott, testify to experience of a high order. Rather, their aim is to provide fairly priced fine dining in relaxed surroundings, to a knowledgeable and appreciative clientele.

The brigade of six chefs – which is hoped will be eight in the near future – sharply hone their skills, with no weaknesses in any department of the kitchen. The “modern, innovative” cooking style, with a base of strong classical techniques, highlights aromas, tastes, textures and temperatures in the use of first rate ingredients. Combinations occasionally surprise but are harmonious, with the main ingredient always taking centre stage, enhanced by sauces, purees and the occasional gel. Vegetables are integral to each dish, not mere garnishes. The cooking of meat and fish is accurately timed and well-seasoned, maximising flavour and texture. The clean line presentation on glass, slate or porcelain, in a variety of shapes and sizes, shows a conscious artistry and fine attention to detail.

Although the provenance of regional and seasonal produce is now acknowledged on menus, here it is not taken to the extremes seen elsewhere with every supplier or region, regardless of their pedigree, being listed. Thankfully, only Cornish crab, Cotswold White chicken and Creedy Carver duck are mentioned.

The menu caters both for casual diners and those seeking more sophisticated, fine dining options. The carte is shrewdly limited to five starters, five mains + specials, four “Kitchen classics” from the Josper Grill and five desserts. Here less is more, ensuring that each dish receives thorough attention. Pricing is keen with starters, (“small plates”) ranging from £5.50 to £14, mains from  £15 to £20  and  desserts £5.95 to £7. A plate of artisan cheeses is £8. For those who seriously want unashamed luxury, the £40 WAGYU burger with Cornish lobster salad, triple cooked chips and black truffle mayonnaise provides the ideal choice.

At lunchtimes a set menu for £16.50 for up to three courses, with the option of a glass of house wine instead of a course, is not only flexible and eminently reasonable, but also excellent value for money.

Fine Dining Guide visited on busy Thursday evening, when the lively buzz of contented diners was still evident.

An amuse bouche of velvety smooth, intensely flavoured chicken liver parfait, smoked in Kilner jars at the table,  added a little restaurant theatre at the start of the meal

Three starters followed:

Cornish crab salad featured utterly fresh sweet white meat with the  gentle bitterness of  pink grapefruit.

Hand dived scallops were seared to produce a caramelised crust and succulent sweet flesh. They married well with confit belly pork, that meltingly soft piece of porcine indulgence!  To cut the richness, mandarin puree gave a measured acidity.  Puffed up crackling gave crispness and roasted almonds provided a crunchy element to the composition. Served on a dark slate, this dish was also visually stunning.

Best of all was the Duck “Bon Bon” composed of densely packed, well rendered confit of duck in a crumb coating. Pickled pear provided a sweet-and-sour counterpoint, and mini nut clusters gave crunch. Garnished with gingerbread tuiles, this was a brilliantly conceived, attractively presented dish.

For main courses, sophisticated comfort food comes no better than ox cheek and mash. Braised for 36 hours to a soft, unctuously melting texture, the meat could be cut with a spoon. Deeply flavoured with the rich wine sauce, reduced before serving to give an even greater intensity, this delectable – and highly fashionable – cut was garnished with baby onions and lardons, both added at the end of cooking to retain their individual identity. Smoked potato puree, of velvety smoothness and decadent richness, completed this highly enjoyable dish.

The cooking of a breast of Creedy Carver duck did full justice to this high quality, free range bird farmed in Devon. Accurately seasoned and well rested, the meat had a gentle gaminess, with the fat rendered to a thin layer under its crisp skin. The bitter sweetness of chicory marmalade was a perfect foil to the richness of the duck. Buttery potato fondant and wilted pak choi proved well-judged accompaniments, adding contrasting colour, texture and flavour. A light duck and vanilla jus brought the components together in a rounded way.

For dessert, Calamansi lime tart had crisp pastry, a bruleed crust and a sharply astringent filling. Elements of deconstruction came with shards of meringue and lime curd. On its own this would have made an excellent dessert, but the addition of coconut sorbet was inspired, giving a cleansing quality it its icy temperature and refreshing taste.

Far richer, but equally accomplished, was the Banana tart tatin. The buttery pastry and thin overlapping layers of fruit played host to a quenelle of rich peanut butter ice cream, slowly melting in the warmth.  Passion fruit jam added a contrasting tangy edge which balanced the overall sweetness of this dessert.

Double expresso and petit fours completed a memorable meal, made even more pleasurable by the relaxed formal service.

Clearly, The Oxford Kitchen has done its homework well, seeing a gap in the market which has existed for some time and which they are eager to fill. It has made an impressive start and has already gained an encouraging degree of support. This is fully justified by the quality of the food coming from the kitchen. Fine Dining Guide will follow The Oxford Kitchen’s progress with interest.

Located in Swallow Street, which links Piccadilly and Regent’s Street in the south east corner of Mayfair, Bentley’s combines the elegant refinement of London’s wealthiest district with the vibrant informality of Soho.

In 2005, Michelin starred chef Richard Corrigan rescued this iconic and once celebrated fish restaurant, which originally opened in 1916, from a dramatic decline and almost inevitable closure. Many would now agree that he has restored Bentley’s to its original leading position.

Whilst the ground floor Oyster Bar and Cocktail Bar retain their original features, such as the marble bar and wooden panelling, the first floor Grill and Rib Room have undergone a more thorough refit. The floral patterned William Morris blue fabric wall covering with matching curtains, give a richer, sophisticated, if darker and more masculine feel to the room. This is reinforced by the plain wooden floor, comfortable studded blue leather chairs and decorative piscine prints. Fine napery covers well-spaced tables which are lit by old fashioned wall lights and cleverly directed spotlighting

Not that the more traditional décor and furnishings of the Grill Room dampen the atmosphere which is one of relaxed conviviality and real enjoyment. On a weekday evening in February we were impressed to find the room fully booked, with a lively buzz of contented diners. Or perhaps we should not have been so surprised given the reputation and following Bentley’s has established. The service, which is formal, but not stiff or condescending, contributes to this success. Indeed, we found it courteous, informative and eager to please without being intrusive or ingratiating.

Well known for his championing of impeccably sourced, seasonal British ingredients, Richard Corrigan celebrates them in his extensive menu of modern and traditional dishes. Smoked salmon with blinis, Dover sole meuniere, dressed crab and shellfish bisque  sit alongside more inventive preparations such as  roast quail with Jerusalem  artichoke and white truffle, roast cod with quince, morcilla and calcots and oysters Vietnamese style.  Combinations are sometimes unusual but always harmonious. Tastes and textures are finely balanced. The kitchen shows a range of well-honed skills in the preparation of the raw ingredients, cooking techniques and elegant presentation. Given the relative simplicity of many of the dishes – not a foam, smear or gel in sight –and with nowhere to hide, it is important that the cooking is finely tuned; Bentley’s more than succeeds in this respect.

With up to 60 covers upstairs, another 50 downstairs, not to mention the private dining room  maximum 60) in the basement, the kitchens are kept very busy indeed. In addition to the oysters (three wild natives, four rocks, three hot rocks), langoustines and caviar, the menu structure accommodates a staggering 15 hot and cold starters, three Fish on the bone, six Waters and the Wild, five dishes From the Grill and five Desserts. All this creates an embarrassment of choice for which recommendations from the front of house are gratefully received. The sommelier judiciously matches the dishes with an interesting flight of wines.

Sat the start of our meal, both the breads and canapés gave a good impression, auguring well for the courses to come. Breads, including French baguette and sour dough, prepared on the premises, had a good bake with firm crumb and crisp crusts. The Irish soda bread was particularly accomplished. Two butters – Lincolnshire poacher and anchovy – showed a pleasing attention to detail.

Canapes featured delicate olive straws, richly flavoured duck rillettes and grain mustard feuilletes.  Best of all was a deep fried savoury croquette which produced a veritable taste explosion of melting feta cheese and soft green olive.

Purists might reel in horror at one of our chosen starters. More than confident of the supreme quality of raw oysters, we nevertheless opted for a “Hot Rock.” Oyster tempura had a feather light, crisp batter encasing the warm, succulent bivalve which retained its magical alkaline qualities. The spicy chorizo offset this perfectly, whilst pickled red onions gave contrasting acidity and texture. Presented in their shells, which also provided a base for a well-made  beurre blanc, the whole dish was lifted by an acidulation of lime. The accompanying wine, Gruner Veltliner Satzen 2012Weingut Manfred Felsner Kremstal – Austria, with its spicy and clean acidity, was an excellent match for this dish.

Tartare of beef featured soft, well-seasoned, superb quality meat, given a well measured kick of horseradish. Raw quail-s egg gave extra richness to bind the beef, whilst toasted sour dough added the texture contrast the dish needed.The medium bodied wine, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Torre del Falasco Veneto, with red fruits and good complexity did full justice to this classic dish.

An escalope of pan seared foie gras had a beautifully caramelised crust and a melting interior. Its richness was cut by slices of lime pickled apple which might prove too acidic for some palates but which we found balanced this luxuriously rich piece of offal perfectly. A chiffonade of sorrel added colour and texture with a muted acidity to this decadent dish.  The sommelier showed her expertise in pairing it with a Jurancon, Clos Uroulat, Charles Hours, 2012, the balance of acidity and sweetness of which acted as a perfect foil.

Two seafood main courses were chosen.

Wild Sea bass was perfectly cooked to retain its deep, clean flavour and moist succulence. The crisp skinned and firm fleshed fillet, garnished with light potato gnocci, was perched on wilted sea lettuce and a fricassee of brown shrimps and wild mushrooms which added a rich, earthy quality. Although it did not need it, the dish was enhanced by the heady fragrance of a generous shaving of black truffle.  Chablis, Billaud-Simon, 2012 with its crisp, mineral qualities and balance of high acidity and rich fruit, proved a highly satisfactory match.

Pan roasted scallops had sweet firm flesh and a golden caramelised crust. Balancing acidity came from blood orange segments, whilst braised salsify, pleasing al dente, gave contrasting texture and flavour. Brown shrimps added an intense shellfish depth of flavour. Finally,  the various elements were brought together by a lively beurre blanc. The elderberry notes, high acidity and long finish of Nosiola Cesconi  2011 Dolomiti Trentino 2012 was another inspired choice of matching wine.

Side dishes of mashed potatoes and buttered spinach with garlic were generous in quantity and well rendered.

Too full to attempt cheese or rich puddings, such as Sticky toffee pudding with oyster stout ice cream or Bentley’s trifle with mascarpone, we opted for a trio of sorbets – Sicilian blood orange, passion fruit and champagne, apple and mint – all of velvety smoothness and intense flavour. Although it is notoriously difficult to match wines with iced desserts, the Royal Tokaji, late harvest, 2011:  had a delightful seam of freshness that proved the exception to the rule.

Overall, our visit to Bentley’s was a highly pleasurable experience, and one we are eager to repeat. Whilst prices are high, they represent excellent value for money given the quality of ingredients and skill of cooking, and are not unreasonable compared with other, less accomplished, restaurants in the West End. No doubt Bentley’s will go from strength to strength under the watchful eye of its ebullient chef patron, whose essential joie de vivre it embodies in its food, wine and service.

To celebrate St Patrick’s Day, Richard Corrigan proposes: At Bentley’s http://www.bentleys.org/#/st-patricks-day/