It’s all about the food at Restaurant Story. It has been ever since it opened over a year ago under the watchful eye of chef Tom Sellers. Attracting reviews at either end of the gastronomic spectrum, it is a restaurant that one simply cannot ignore.

It’s certainly not about the location. Situated just south of Tower Bridge, in a narrow space between Tooley and Druid Streets, two noisy and busy carriageways, it is easily missed by taxi drivers, even when stationary at the traffic lights with Tower Bridge Road.

Nor is it about the design. This single story building, costing an amazing £2,000,000 and on a site of a Victorian public loo, has a slatted wood and glass frontage, modest entrance and a tiny name plaque. This understatement is not unique, but it lacks the attraction of some of its nearby competitors housed in converted warehouses with river frontages oozing industrial chic. The well lit Scandinavian style interior, with its partially open kitchen behind a glass screen, well-spaced wooden tables, leather backed chairs , spotlighting and lanterns, is not displeasing, but nothing out of the ordinary. Indeed, there are few distractions if the view of the Shard from the floor to ceiling glass wall is ignored.

So it’s all about the food. And what food it is! Having opened Restaurant Story at the relatively young age of 26, Tom Sellers displays an ambitious, inexhaustible creativity.  At the cutting edge of the gastronomy, his CV includes stints at Per Se, Noma, Trinity and Tom Aiken, the last being where he really cut his teeth. This varied experience has produced a veritable cornucopia of dishes reflecting the influence of his mentors but indisputably bearing his unique stamp. Behind the snazzy modern techniques, novel combinations, whacky descriptors and playful interpretations there lies a culinary intelligence which respects the seasons and ingredients, blossoming into dishes which reveal precise execution, minute attention to detail, exquisite presentation, clean tastes and harmonious textures. Mercifully, foraged ingredients play a relatively minor role in the repertoire.

The brigade of 11 young chefs produces two tasting menus – 6 courses for £65, 10 for £85. There is also a set lunch at £35. Given the number of pre course “snacks”, the labour intensity of preparation and the quality of ingredients, all these represent very good value for money. The multiplicity of courses requires the front of house team to be both efficient and knowledgeable. In this capacity, the mainly young team had been well trained and briefed in detail on the dishes. They coped admirably with a demanding service.

The wine list of just over 200 bottles, with prices ranging from the mid £20s to £700 pays homage to the classics, especially big red, without ignoring the New World.

Fine Dining Guide visited Restaurant Story on a busy weekday lunch, finding much to admire in the food offered.

No chef takes as much care over its amuse bouches, here called “snacks” as Tom Sellers. Both in quantity and quality these visually stunning mouthfuls made an impressive start to this culinary adventure.

Crispy cod skin, almost a sine qua non of Scandinavian menus, came on crisp bread with piped dots of gently smoked cod roe emulsion, frilly carrot tops and a dressing of gin botanicals (juniper) which gave a herbal lift to the dish.

A “snack” of orange Nasturtium flowers with oyster sabayon was an inspired lively combination of produce from earth and sea.

An elegant study in green and black saw impeccably fresh English peas, with their slight nuttiness, alternated with piped dots of fragrant truffle mayonnaise. These sweet and earthy flavours complemented each other well.

In a playful savoury interpretation of a popular American confection,   Storeo biscuits comprised squid ink wafers dusted with vinegar powder sandwiching smoked eel mousse. Meltingly soft, this imaginative dish scored more on texture and presentation than on flavour.

Razor clam, crispy barley and champagne “snow” proved a veritable mini explosion of temperatures, textures and tastes.

Rabbit sandwich, packed with flavoursome leg meat, had a stuffing of tarragon cream and a dressing of paper thin slices of three different carrots pickled with bergamot. These aniseed and citrus notes enhanced the mild gaminess of the meat.

Of the ten courses proper, Bread and Dripping, which has become Tom Seller’s signature, was truly original in conception and execution. The edible candle, lit at the table and left ot burn, left a rich pool of beef dripping in the base of the candlestick, providing a dip for the dense rye sourdough. The warm bread, presented in a leather pouch, arrived with a bowl of finely cubed veal tongue, jellied chicken consommé, celery and pickled horseradish which proved an earthy mix of strong and piquant flavours and soft, fatty textures. What a bold statement to start the succession of main dishes!

Onion, apple and old Tom, saw baby Roscoff onions cooked in three contrasting ways:  caramelised to bitter sweetness, braised to a melting softness in stout, and crisped to wafer thinness. Decorated with chickweed, which it did not need, the dish was completed with a dressing of apple consommé flavoured with Old Tom gin and lemon thyme. Again, all the flavours and textures were carefully judged to produce a fragrant, well balanced dish.

Heritage potato, peas, broad beans and coal was another star vegetarian dish. Pureed to a velvety smooth puree, this rich dish probably had at least equal amounts of butter and vegetable, although the potato flavour shone through. Topped with hollandaise made with sharp dandelion vinegar, and balanced by a signature anointment of oil infused with hot coal, these dressings complemented rather than overwhelmed the sweet and nutty qualities of the potato. Fresh peas and broad beans provided an appropriate seasonal garnish.

Tale of a quail was a composite dish served in three stages. First came a sparkling clear, fully flavoured consommé. Next, served in a casserole lined with hay and heather, was a trio comprising soft boiled eggs, legs coated in a barbeque sauce and a kebab of the liver, heart and thigh. As if this was not enough, we were surprised by a final serving of the breast paired with corn puree. The sheer playful inventiveness of this dish, coupled with the precise timing of cooking which did full justice to each of the components, elevated this usually dull game bird into a spectacular, mouth-watering dish. It did, indeed, tell the “story” of its habitat, food and culinary preparation.

Raw beef, apple and summer truffle was a preparation that had the least cooking but most in terms of levels of flavour. A hollowed out apple encased layers of truffle mayonnaise covered with creamy, well flavoured beef tartare. This was mixed with tiny cubes of apple which cut through the richness, and crisp bacon which added flavour and texture. These in turn were topped with apple jelly, rye grains and grated white truffle. This luxurious element, which commanded a hefty supplement, was not an expensive superfluous flourish but an essential element, totally integrated into the composition, adding a heady fragrance which lifted the other elements. The choice of apple, with its balanced sweetness and acidity, neither of which overwhelmed the beef, also contributed to the success of this simply presented but wonderfully flavoured dish.

Lamb, grilled salad and sheep’s yogurt, as with the quail dish, showed the deft use of various parts of the animal. These comprised a strip of loin, cooked to a blushing pink which captured its tender, succulent qualities, crisp skinned, slow cooked belly – surely the most under rated parts of the animal – and a ballotine of head cheese. The richness of these elements was cut by the grilled salad and sheep’s yogurt, the latter piped alternately with an intense lemon balm puree which complemented the lamb well.

A platter of artisan cheeses, all in perfect condition, included Cornish Blue, Langres, and St Nicholas.  Damson jelly, melba fruit and  mini white loaf loaves were appropriate accompaniments.

Four desserts showed the same levels of skill, precision and creativity as the preceding courses. Fruit paired and dairy products or herbs reflect a Nordic influence, whilst ice creams and sorbets are a particular strength, revealing intensity of flavour, silky smoothness of texture, and dexterity in being shaped into perfect quenelles.

English strawberry, camomile and sweet cicely, matched ripe fruit, jelly and sorbet with traditional herbs judiciously used as garnishes. Another dessert with a more familiar combination of flavours comprised a “soil” of dark chocolate, an intense cassis sorbet, and wild berries covered in “snow” of buttermilk. A “snow,” this time of white chocolate, also garnished an accurately set lemon parfait and milk ice cream. Perhaps best of all was Almond and dill, which saw well flavoured almond ice cream, almond crumble and flaked almonds, set against a vibrantly coloured dill “snow”, dill oil and violet flowers. The subtle milky and strong herbal flavours, along with the stunning presentation, made for a memorably refined dessert.

Good coffee and even more food – raspberry coulis and rose meringue teacakes – completed this remarkable culinary journey.

This was a meal which was the result of painstakingly skilled preparation, artistic presentation and gastronomic vision. Clearly, Tom Sellers is a chef who doesn’t do things by halves, his food revealing a depth and breadth of creativity tempered with a realistic sense in extending the frontiers of contemporary cuisine. Having achieved a Michelin star in less than a year, with high marks in the other major guides, one senses that he has far more to give, that he has not reached the height of his powers. The Michelin Guide comes out at the end of September 2014, and Fine Dining Guide will watch his progress with eager anticipation.

Head Chef Martin Adams

Overseeing the brigade of three in the kitchen is head chef Martin Adams. Surprisingly relaxed after a busy evening’s service, he was kind enough to spare the time to chat about his career. This has included working with Michelin starred chefs Nathan Outlaw and Chris Eden and in the kitchens of big hotels including the Bristol Swallow, followed by the Fowey and Carylon Bay hotels in Cornwall. His present position, although in a much smaller establishment, nevertheless gives him a free rein in developing his style of cooking, which he describes as “modern English with a “fresh, exciting” feel.

With minimum of gadgetry and a preference for the classical techniques in which he was trained, his seasonally changing menu is executed with an “eye for presentation” and “solid skills.” These qualities, which include accuracy in timing, harmonious combination of ingredients with well-considered balance of tastes, textures and temperatures, were commended on Masterchef the Professionals, where he reached the quarter finals in 2012. More importantly, his cooking has gained Tudor Farmhouse two AA rosettes, inclusion in the Michelin and Good Hotel Guides, and Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay. In 2013 it was winner of the Hotel of the Year in Cotswold Life Food & Drink Awards and has been listed in the Tatler Restaurant Guide, 2014.

Regionality and seasonality are particular important in Martin’s food philosophy. Most of the produce is sourced within a radius of 20 miles. For instance, poultry comes from Madgetts Farm overlooking the Wye Valley and game and venison from Lyndley Park, just three miles away. Even fruit juices, cider, real ale and local wines are supplied by dealers in Ross on Wye, Monmouth and Tintern respectively. Foraged produce comes from Raoul van den Broucke a “local legend” based in Monmouth. The hotel’s own kitchen garden has expanded, giving more immediate supplies, although Martin’s love of seafood cookery, nurtured in his time in Cornwall, means fish and shellfish are inevitably sourced from that more distant county. On his current menu, skate is a best seller. (see food review )

The a la carte menu of six starters, (£7-£9), mains, (£14-£22) and desserts, including a cheese option, (£8-10) presents a generous choice not usually encountered in smaller country house hotels. This is supplemented by daily specials and a six course tasting menu (£60), with an option flight of wines, (£30).Considering the impeccable quality of the produce and the skills employed in cooking, these prices are realistic and fair. Portions are large by dainty London appetites, if not for local ones, and menu descriptions are detailed but still understated, giving an element of surprise when dishes arrive. Occasionally this generosity of spirit can lead to busy plates. Foraged herbs and leaves together with edible flower petals are used in moderation as garnishes.

The wine list impresses in terms of range – a combination of Old and New Worlds supplemented with British artisan producers – and price, where mark ups are reasonable. There is also a good selection by the glass and carafe. Useful notes, including those on a special list of Pinot Noir, show a deep and passionate interest. Not that other beverages are neglected, as shown in the list of local beers and ciders and the specialist tea menu.

Unable to decide from the embarrassment of choice, I opted for the logical option – the tasting menu with wines. This would also show the breadth and depth of Martin Adam’s repertoire.

The two types of bread were baked well: the crisp white roll had a light, fluffy crumb whilst the country style bread was fuller flavoured with a denser texture.

An amuse bouche of duck and black pudding fritter, crumbed and deep fried, was rich and succulent. This was a clever use of the leg meat which worked well with earthy black pudding. Melon chutney gave the required touch of moist sweetness.

The first dish comprised freshly cooked crab cakes, bursting with the rich full flavour of brown meat – so often ignored by chefs – and given a herby lift with a generous addition of coriander. Balancing this was a quenelle of crab salad, featuring the delicate flakes of sweet white meat, which provided a good contrast of flavour, texture and temperature. A dressing of sweetcorn and chilli jam which added sweetness and lively heat, brought the elements of this visually stunning dish together. The crisp white – Royal Tokaji Dry Furmit 2011 – with rich honey notes and plenty of acidity did full justice to the seafood.

The next dish of rabbit fritter – Martin seems to be like this way of preparation – was hot, well-seasoned and with a spicy kick.  A kebab of loin was soft and melting, not overcooked as is so easily done with rabbit. Whilst the garlic aioli might have been a little thicker, it did not lack flavour. The bitterness of curly endive leaves was balanced by the astringency of tiny pickled peppers which was the surprise element of the dish. The gently oaked matching red wine – Pinot Noir, Esterhazy 2011  –  with its strawberry and cherry scent, was a well- judged pairing.

Poached skate with beurre noisette was a classic dish given a new twist. The precisely timed wing had been perfectly cooked and deboned, the delicate flesh rolled and perched on soft, buttery crushed new potatoes. Accompaniments of smoked cockles, confit celery and crisp sea vegetables including samphire added flavour and texture, with extra richness given by a herb butter. Carrot puree added sweetness and colour, but was not needed to make this a successful dish. Here was a fish course that worked well with red wine – the same light Pinot Noir

Pan fried duck breast, timed to a blushing pink, had crisp skin, well rendered fat and moist flesh. The leg meat was combined in a crisp spring roll, whilst the overall richness was cut by caramelised pineapple. Sweet potato fondant proved a meltingly delicious accompaniment, wilted bok choi added freshness, cashews and burnt coconut added crunch, and a light jus rounded off the composition. This dish of strong flavours deserved an equally bold wine: the Chianti Classico ( Isole e Olena) 2010, with its tobacco and spice notes, fitted the bill perfectly.

Given the vogue for deconstructing desserts, it was pleasing to be served lemon meringue pie which had not been taken apart as to be unrecognisable. This frozen version, with piped nodules of crisp meringue on top of a tangy lemon filling, was enhanced by a even sharper lime curd. A raspberry sorbet of velvety smoothness and intense flavour, and a dusting of orange sherbet completed this refined dessert. The citrus spiked Australian Riesling proved a refreshing wine match.

In true British fashion cheeses came after dessert. A selection of goat’s, hard and blue, all in the perfect condition and sourced from artisan producers, came with a lively tomato chutney, savoury biscuits, celery, apple and a glass of rich ruby port.

Double expresso and petit fours – fudge and chocolate truffle cups – completed a memorable meal, made even more enjoyable by the welcoming, efficient service of Manager Laura Adams, cheerfully and knowledgeably assisted by Georgina Parker.

Overall, Martin Adams and his team have created an accomplished fine dining restaurant, a real foodie destination of which they can be justifiably proud, and fully deserving of the accolades already heaped on it. And yet one feels this is a chef who has still not reached the peak of his powers, whose potential augurs well for the future. Fine Dining Guide will watch his career with interest.

The Beautiful Setting of Inn the Park in St James’ Park London.

The British penchant for al fresco dining is deeply ingrained and understandable given the limited days of fine weather in the summer months. Even those –usually men –who spend hardly any time in the kitchen think they can cook when faced with an outdoor charcoal grill and raw meat.

However, the supposed joys of barbecues on the patio, picnics in the park and terrace dining in restaurants and are plagued by the inconsistencies of cooking, insect attack  and the unpredictability of the weather. For those who prefer to avoid these pitfalls yet enjoy the fresh air and outdoor beauty, and not just in the summer, Inn the Park, has filled a much needed gap. Ground breaking in being the first British park restaurant to open all year round, with all day eating, its idyllic location by the lake in St James’s Park gives it an unrivalled position in the heart of the capital.

Part of the Peyton and Byrne group, Inn the Park is far removed from the stereotypical shack-like park cafés with their outside foldaway tables and chairs and collapsible parasols. A permanent single storey pavilion designed by Hopkins architects, it is cleverly set into a gently rising hillock, so benefitting thermally from being embedded in the ground. A grass covered roof offers excellent views of the lake from the upper terrace bar. Although beautiful all year round and at most times of the day, sunset on a warm evening in the height of summer in St James Park holds a particular magic.

The exterior looks neither like a “Swiss chalet” nor a “park folly” as two commentators have described it. In a natural grey palette which harmonises well with the natural surroundings, it features a glass wall of sliding panels and a wide veranda which is heated in winter and offers shade in summer. The honey coloured timber interior, designed by Tom Dixon, provides space for a 100 seat restaurant, with bespoke furniture and fittings of rugged, natural and sustainable materials. A recent refurbishment to celebrate its tenth anniversary has seen new bar on the main terrace, larchwood flooring, lighting and furnishings. Wide tubular steel and leather chairs provide comfortable seating around well-spaced tables. Therefore the attractive surroundings are not confined just to the outside the restaurant.

Given its prime location and  popularity with tourists, local residents, and public servants – it is a stone’ s throw from many Whitehall departments – Inn the Park serves  breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner whilst also offering a “Grab and Go” self-service section for sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries. Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in July to sample the dinner menu.

In line with the overall philosophy of organic sustainability, Head chef Colin Kelly’s seasonally changing menu focuses largely on British produce sourced from local specialist suppliers, often artisan producers and rare breed farmers. The carte comprises six each of starters (£3.50 – £11), mains (£13-  £24) and desserts, including cheese, (£2.90 – £8.50), helps to ensure consistency of cooking whilst offering a reasonable choice of meat, fish and vegetarian options at a competitive price point for central London

Although not intended to be fine dining, dishes are imaginative, generously portioned, accurately timed, well-seasoned and attractively presented. Ingredients are mainly British, but cooking can adopt European influences as seen in seabass tartar, beef carpaccio, and a stew of squid and hake with chorizo.

Diners might want to indulge in a pre prandial cocktail –  Sage Bison, Plum and Elderflower Julep or Thyme Colin –  or choose from a selection of craft beers. The wine list includes 16 by the glass (starting from £4.75), including several rosés and sparkling wines.

A salad starter of utterly fresh Devon crab saw the deliciously sweet white meat dressed with a light mayonnaise. Ripe, creamy chunks of avocado were mixed with the Romaine leaves and broad beans and given added interest by a scattering of crisp gingerbread crumbs. Delicious in itself, the dish might have benefitted from more crumbs, a citrus lift and a little of the brown crab meat for extra flavour. (Why is the brown meat so generally underused?)

Another starter of Carpaccio of beef had been lightly smoked, dressed in oil and served with deep fried capers and a celeriac remoulade. This was a happy marriage of balanced flavours and textures, the mustardy qualities of the remoulade complementing the thin slices of beef particularly well.

It was pleasing, given the restaurant’s sourcing policy, to see Cornish Megrim sole, far more sustainable than its more fashionable and expensive Dover and Lemon sole cousins, offered as a main course. Whilst not as delicate and refined in texture, Megrim sole still has a pleasant flatfish quality.  Served on the bone to retain its succulence, a whipped shrimp butter added richness and crustacean flavour.

Sides of seasonal buttered fresh peas, green beans and shallots and Cornish new potatoes went well with this dish.

Rib eye steak, cooked medium rare as requested on the new state of the art BBQ, was full of bovine flavour produced by its good marbling. Richness was added by smoked bone marrow and onion puree and a reduction of the juices brought the elements together. Chunky hand cut chips, crisp on the outside with a fluffy interior, proved the perfect accompaniment.

Desserts are of the decadent variety, ranging from sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream to Eton Mess. An ITP sundae, with layers of ice cream, fruit and whipped cream, fortunately not of Knickerbocker Glory proportions, was sampled, satisfying the sugar hit that was craved. Simple hand-made ice cream of velvety texture, provided a simpler alternative.

Service at Inn the Park is young, welcoming and eager to please, being overseen by restaurant manager Ross Davis. The ambience is relaxed and informal, in line with the wishes of the majority of those who eat out nowadays.

Overall, it is not difficult to see why Inn the Park has been successful over the past decade, combining the pleasures of al fresco eating with the security of comfort and good food if the weather deteriorates. Given its recent makeover and enticing menus, it is likely to go from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide will be sure to visit again, perhaps for lunch or afternoon tea or for Ribs on the Roof,’ a summer promotion daily from 5pm , offering a half-rack of ribs with spicy coleslaw and a Saxon beer for £10.

The current vogue in opening large restaurants in London has added to the embarrassment of choice in dining out. Whether in overstated glamourous rooms in revamped West End hotels and banks , or converted East End warehouses with industrial chic design, these new establishments often come with unwelcome disadvantages for prospective diners: difficulties in acquiring tables, unless they are celebrities; labyrinthine booking systems or a no booking policy; vast, overpriced menus about which waiting staff are inadequately briefed; service that is so perfunctory guests feel tolerated rather than respected and welcome; noise levels more appropriate to wine bars and pubs; and, worst of all, inconsistency in cooking, with a feeling of mass catering. The average life of such fashionable restaurants is likely to be short.

This is where the adage about “small is beautiful” really does have relevance, especially to established restaurants like Latium, a high end Italian in Fitzrovia.  Located near the northern end of Berners Street – which itself has recently seen a large scale opening with a celebrity chef – Latium exemplifies all the benefits of a more modest operation. With a maximum of just 55 covers, guests feel personally welcome and benefit from efficient, knowledgeable service that is formal yet relaxed and friendly. It is overseen by the most accommodating restaurant manager Alex Trumcim and his charming deputy Rosanna, who is also the sommelier. The attractive menu is wide ranging and inventive but not so ambitious as to invite problems of delivery. It allows the highly skilled cooking to shine through, showing a consistency that has encouraged the mixed clientele of locals and those from further afield to return; indeed, Latium is now in its eleventh year of opening, a testament to its success.

Latium does not blow its own trumpet but has an understated ethos and serenity which add to its appeal. Guests can easily walk by its office like frontage without realising it is a restaurant. Inside, the stone tiled floor, white walls with large abstract food photographs, and well directed spotlighting make for a stylish, contemporary design. Tables dressed in fine napery, well controlled air conditioning and good acoustics which minimise noise levels, contribute to guest comfort. Diners near the far end can also view action in the kitchen through a large window.

Chatting with the warm and amiable Maurizio Morelli, chef patron (with Claudio Pulze), we were impressed by the passion and dedication he has lavished on his craft. His love of game cookery, and pride in his celebrated fish ravioli were clearly evident. Latium’s award from Restaurant Magazine’s UK Best Dishes – Pasta category – confirmed Maurizio’s excellence in this aspect of his repertoire. His distinguished CV includes spells at the Lanesborough and Halkin hotels before becoming head chef at “ibla Restaurant” in Marylebone, which gained a Bib Gourmand. Further experience continued with cooking at the Green Olive and acting as a consultant for the Red Pepper Group. Having cooked at Latium for eleven years, there is a sense of real enjoyment and contentment.

Maurizo’s cooking combines elements of traditional regional Italian cuisine – especially of his home region of Lazio – with innovative touches which enhance rather than overwhelm the clarity of flavour and beauty of presentation.  Seasonal ingredients, many sourced from Italy, are used to maximum effect. The timing of dishes is accurate, dishes are carefully seasoned and saucing shows a deft touch.

The main menu is well judged in terms of range and pricing. For instance, six anti pasti, five primi piatti (pasta / risotto), four secondi fish, and four secondi meat, is wide enough to promote choice, and not too excessive for a kitchen brigade of eight. A separate ravioli menu of five starters and five mains highlights Maurizo’s speciality for which he has gained national recognition.

Two courses at £29.50 or three for £35.50 constitute  a relative bargain by West End standards. There is also a well-priced, weekly changing set lunch menu at £16.50 for two courses (or £22.50 for three), which is also available for early evening

Fine Dining Guide visited on a midweek evening in June, finding much to appreciate in the food, wine and service

A generous set of nibbles arrived in the form of olives, buratta, salami, and light, fragrant olive oil. These were accompanied a basket of crisp breads, white rolls, olive bread and focaccia, baked on the premises. All were well rendered, the moist and well flavoured focaccia in particular having a good balance of salt and olive oil

The rest of the meal was left to the chef’s discretion, as we wanted to sample some signature dishes. These were paired with a fight of wines chosen from the  predominantly Italian list which was interesting and moderately priced.

A highly inventive anti pasta dish featured a velvety smooth cold potato cream given a salty richness with ricotta, partnered by soft boiled quail’s eggs and a crisp tuile of mushroom risotto. These elements of differing tastes, temperatures and textures worked well together, being given a fragrant lift with the addition of summer black truffle. (Wine: Pinot Bianco doc La Prendina 2013 Lombardia,)

A second anti pasta dish saw a supremely fresh, succulent and precisely seasoned disc of tuna tartare topped with delicate salmon caviar and a rich mascarpone cream. This was balanced in texture and flavour with young, tender broad beans and fragrant pea shoots in a subtle dressing. (Wine: Frascati Superiore, Casale Marchese 2012 Lazio)

Next came the piece de resistance: a selection of delicate fish ravioli – black, green, yellow and red. These comprised squid ink pasta filled with monkfish; spinach with brill and carrot; saffron with salmon and chives; and tomato with tuna and red pepper. Eaten in a specified order, the distinct flavours of each were clearly identifiable, the soft, melting pasta encasing generous amount of filling. The squid with monkfish and saffron with salmon were especially delicious. A light sauce and a dusting of sea bass bottarga – another inventive touch compared with the usual grey mullet or tuna preparations – brought the four appetising parcels of pasta together. Visually stunning, this labour intensive dish was a tour de force of imagination and creativity.  (Wine: Terlaner Classico, Cantina Terlano 2013 Alto Adige) 

Equally accomplished was the ravioli of oxtail: delicate pasta shrouding rich meat dressed in a light jus flavoured with celery.

A dish of eight hour roasted belly pork saw this highly fashionable cut cooked to perfection: the glazed soft skinned portion was succulent and meltingly tender, with the fat being well rendered. The richness of the meat was balanced by borlotti beans, both whole and in a puree, wilted spinach and roasted baby leeks, which also gave sweetness and textural contrast. A flavoursome sauce and grated salted ricotta – another unusual touch which lifted the dish – finished this generous, highly satisfying main course. (Wine: Adeo Bolgheri Rosso, Campo alla Sughera 2010 Toscana)

Finally, a highly creative dessert added a fun element to the menu. Piped mounds of rich but not overly sweet white chocolate mousse were interspersed with strawberry puree and mint coulis, giving the colours of the Italian flag.

Caramelised popcorn provided a balancing light crispness, whilst a dusting of liquorice power added a hint of aniseed flavour. (Wine: Visciolata del Cardinale, Cabernet Sauvignon with wild cherries)

Good expresso with excellent homemade truffles and biscotti completed a memorable meal, enhanced by the seamless, unobtrusive service.

Overall, it is clear why Latium has survived the rigours of a highly competitive and ruthless restaurant world. The virtues of finely tuned, deferential service, which might seem old fashioned but still has its place, are undeniable.  Equally important is the consistently high quality of the food, which reflects a cooking style which is adaptable but retains the integrity of its Italian roots. The price point also reflects outstanding value for money. Fine Dining Guide will return to this gem of a restaurant to sample other delights such as the tempting fish main courses and the sweet ravioli, confident in the knowledge it will be there for many years to come.

Despite the popularity of Mexican food in the UK, it has spawned few restaurants seeking to cater for a fine dining clientele. Peyote, restaurant and bar, located on Cork Street just north of Burlington Arcade, is one rare example. Launched in November 2013, proprietor Tarun Mahrotri has partnered with Eduardo Garcia, (previously of Maximo Bistro, Mexico City), on menu composition, and worked with Head Chef Hili Sharabani, (who has worked at Buddha Bar Knightsbridge and Nobu Park Lane), to produce an innovative menu that mixes tradition with contemporary influences.

Fine Dining Guide visited Peyote on a Thursday evening in May. The gravitational pull of the sizeable crowd spilling onto the street, soon had us headed in the right direction. Inside we found the lighting set to low, as the music to high, appropriate to what seemed to be a bar come dining area in which we were seated. A DJ Booth occupying one corner sealed the impression that Peyote seeks to serve a broad church, from relaxed diners to hardened tequila aficionados.

We were later to discover that the basement level of the restaurant, which includes the Chef’s table and Taco Bar, lends itself as a very different option for dining. Brighter, more spacious, and away from the hustle and (sometimes) overbearing music of the bar, the tables are afforded a great view into the open kitchen, and enjoy a more serene environment.

The menu is extensive. A number of elements demonstrated a pan-Latin influence, for example a selection of Ceviches. Others were faithful classics such as Tostadas, Tacos and Quesadillas. All of the dishes seemed to promise the sort of fresh, vibrant flavours we were hoping for.

Given the Mexican obsession with Tequila, a definite highlight is the cocktail menu; which boasts a range of expertly blended tipples. The staple, the Margarita (of course), is a perfect harmony of sweet, saltiness and acidity – but for the more adventurous there is plenty else to choose from. There is also a carefully curated range of tequilas, although one can’t help but feel these are wasted on the uninitiated such as us.

Our first foray exploring the menu took in a smooth and velvety Guacamole, bursting with pungent undertones of garlic and chilli. This was accompanied by a quintuple of salsas, ordered by Scoville scale according to the level of heat.  Thankfully, even the hottest of the lot, the habanero, was perfectly palatable.

Other dishes we had to start included the Yellow Tail Laminados (think Sashimi, but with creamy avocado puree in place of the wasabi), the wonderfully unadulterated Tuna Tostados, and the star of the show, the Prawn Ceviche. The Ceviche was a joy, boasting prawns that were fat and succulent from soaking up the flavours of lime, chilli and coriander. Every mouthful managed to be both full of flavour and a palate cleanser all in one.

From the fresh clean flavours of the first set of dishes, we moved on to sample some of the signature Tacos. These were surprising restrained in terms of heat; however this allowed the subtlety of flavours to really stand out. The Pork Pibil – a speciality of Yucatán State – was meltingly soft, with a beautifully piquant sauce, and if cooked in the traditional way, both coloured and flavoured by the addition of annatto seeds. The fish taco demonstrated further delicateness of flavour and careful handling of ingredients, being cooked to perfection, with slightly caramelised outer edges and a soft, mouth-watering middle.

For the main course we sampled both the Rib Eye and Chilean Sea Bass. The meat was expertly cooked, being enhanced by a sweetness derived from careful charring and the selection of a well-marbled cut.  The accompanying borracha (chilli) salsa, augmented with tequila, was yet another example of careful flavour control and a tendency by the kitchen to let the delicate flavours of the ingredients stand out. The fish was similarly well delivered, cooked to be soft and translucent; this was accompanied by a deliciously tangy pineapple and coriander sauce.

The freshness and simplicity of flavours on the menu makes saving room for dessert somehow seem easy. Of course, one of the delights of Mexico is the abundant Churros. These are soft doughnut like sticks that are perfectly shaped for dunking in chocolate, cinnamon or sugar. Peyote does this Mexican street food full justice, conjuring up soft, light strips of dough, encased in a moreish, crisp shell. The smell alone is worthy of being bottled to make scented candles. The chocolate sauce that accompanies the churros is warm and gooey and perfectly geared up for dunking. The only problem is that one serving is never likely to be sufficient! We also sampled Hibiscus cheesecake. This was a traditional vanilla cheesecake, but was given a transformational lift by the addition of sweet and aromatic hibiscus granite – although perhaps not an authentic Mexican recipe, this certainly seemed a harmonious addition to the menu.

Although much of the offering at Peyote will be familiar to those who have enjoyed Mexican food in a more casual setting, the restaurant does offer a more sophisticated twist, which is particularly exemplified by the subtlety and delicate flavouring of the cooking. Less than one year old, Peyote has already attracted a well-heeled clientele, and not just from the bright young things of Mayfair. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest.

Bibo Restaurant Putney, Interior

What is it about Putney that prevents it from having a restaurant of distinction? Unlike other prosperous middle class suburbs such as Chiswick, Kew, and Wandsworth, each of which boasts a Michelin starred establishment and a plethora of good neighbourhood restaurants, Putney has been woefully lacking in both. (Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s Michelin starred Putney Bridge closed many years ago, its proprietors moving to the West End.) One can only assume that local residents are either apathetic or happy to travel further afield to enjoy good food.

Chef Chris Beverley

All this may well change with Bibo, the latest opening of acclaimed restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas. It is run in the same vein as her previous going concerns, namely as a neighbourhood restaurant, but whereas Sonny’s Kitchen in Barnes, for example, is distinctly British, Bibo offers modern Italian food.

Bibo opened in March, on the former site of Greg Wallace’s venture, with seating for 72. How much Bibo, and places of similar quality are needed, could not be made clearer by it being nestled in the Upper Richmond Road amongst Nandos, Pizza Express and Dominos! Its mere presence among these food-on-the-go establishments provides an injection of much needed sophistication.

The glass frontage and the large mirrors allow plenty of natural light, which is particularly pleasant for lunchtimes or those long summer evenings. The interior itself has a rustic look, with whitewashed exposed brickwork and stripped timber floors. The restaurant is on split levels, with the bar and main area having high ceilings with iron chandeliers, with a more intimate raised level at the back.

Those who had the fortune – or misfortune – of Latin lessons at school will know that Bibo means “I drink.” This is sound advice as the restaurant has a delightfully imposing bar and an extensive all Italian wine list created by wine specialist Zeren Wilson. Pricing is keen, with bottles starting at £17.50 and wine by the glass from £4.50. Well informed staff means and you are likely to leave better informed as well as pleasantly satisfied by the wine.

The kitchen brigade is led by an English head chef, Chris Beverley.  He holds an economics degree from Cambridge, but decided on a restaurant career in food and wine after graduating. Since completing a course at Leith’s Cookery School, he has worked in some of the finest kitchens in London, including Chez Bruce, The Orrery and The Oxo Tower.  However, his chief mentor in modern Italian cuisine is Theo Randall of the Intercontinental Hotel, where Chris worked from 2009 to 2012. Perhaps Chris is aiming to emulate the achievement of an earlier Cambridge alumnus, Alistair Little, who went on to distinguish himself in the gastronomic world with his eponymous restaurant in soho.

Given its relative simplicity compared with French classical cooking, the freshness of seasonal ingredients and precision in cooking are essential prerequisites for success in Italian dishes.  In these respects, Bibo scores highly. In many dishes, less in more, with clear, often bold flavours shining through. Chris’s ingredient combination and accuracy in timing allow the finest produce to speak for itself..

The menu, organised in the classic Italian fashion takes pride in the provenance of specialist ingredients from the Italian peninsula and its islands.  The range of dishes is well judged, with no more than six options in each course, allowing the kitchen to focus on consistency of cooking. Pricing again is keen, with Antipasti £5.00-£8; Primi £8-£9 (or as main course £13-£14); Secondi £15.50-£17; and Dolci £6.50- £7. A dish of the day, ‘Piatta del giorno’ is available Monday-Friday for £10 (or £12.50 with a glass of house wine).

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening. We were impressed by how busy the restaurant was, with the buzz of real enjoyment from contented diners. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming.

Homemade focaccia and sourdough breads were well flavoured with crisp crusts and firm crumb. The Coratina dipping olive oil  was of very fine quality with a herbal pungency.

The finest ingredients were used to produce two vibrant, well balanced and simply presented anti pasti dishes.

Burrata had a lively freshness that came with a finely judged combination of mozzarella and cream. This light, soft cheese complemented the sweetness of roasted red pepper, both being offset by the saltiness of capers and the earthy mintiness of basil.

A tomato salad featured two specialist baby varieties: Camone from Sardinia were crunchy and sweet while Marinda from Sicily were slightly tart, more savoury and full flavoured. Crumbled Caprini, a fresh goat’s cheese from Piedmont gave a slightly acidic note and breadcrumbs (pangrattato) gave texture. Olive oil and basil  giving richness and fragrance, completed this perfect summer dish.

For the primi course, two pasta dishes were chosen. Often seen as the acid test of good Italian restaurants, they did not disappoint; indeed they were the outstanding dishes of the meal.

Wide ribbons of crimped-edge pappardelle, in overlapping folds, were perfectly textured. They worked well with a slow cooked pork ragu, the richness being cut by lemon, the whole dish being lifted by delicate floral notes of marjoram.

Ravioli of goat’s cheese and new potato – starch on starch – on paper should not work. However, far from being heavy and cloying, the dish was a triumph, the small al dente parcels having a deliciously melting quality.  Broad beans gave a seasonal freshness, and grated parmesan a final flourish.

Secondi main courses featured lamb and fish.

Slow cooked lamb shoulder, the sweetest of cuts, was tender and succulent, falling off the bone.  This was accompanied by a rich caponata stew of aubergines, celery, tomatoes, capers and olives. Flavoured with oregano, the generously portioned dish  proved highly satisfying.

A fillet of the much under rated grey mullet was accurately timed to produce a crisp skin and soft, translucent flesh.  Taggiasche olives with their meaty texture with a tart flavour dressed the fish alongside capers and anchovies. These strong salty notes were balanced by the sweetness of roasted peppers and the freshness of wilted spinach.

For cheese, we sampled two varieties – Taleggio and Gorgonzola – both in peak condition.  What made this course extra special were the accompaniments of  pear and saffron chutney and the carta di musica, a thin flatbread originating in Sardinia.

Desserts showed the same skill and attention to detail as the preceding courses.

A trio of ice creams – salted caramel, coffee and vanilla  – were velvety textures and full flavoured.  Even better were the bombolini, tiny doughnuts, with Amalfi lemon curd.

Good coffee completed a well-executed meal which showed strengths in all departments. Chris Beverley clearly knows his stuff, and his accomplished cooking is likely to attract not just regulars but those from further afield.

Service was excellent throughout, with the  mainly young staff  being friendly, efficient and knowledgeable

The early signs, then, are very encouraging, although establishing a restaurant is a marathon not a sprint. As with all successful neighbourhood restaurants, Bibo needs a small army of regular clients, who sometimes at the drop of a hat want to pop in some good food and a glass of wine in a civilised atmosphere. If it becomes successful then it needs to stay loyal to those followers by staying affordable and ensuring the early standards being set are maintained. Certainly, these traits have helped to make Sonny’s successful, and Bibo is likely to emulate their local standing. Fine Dining guide will follow its progress with interest.