Amaya is now in its eleventh year of welcoming discerning lovers of contemporary Indian cuisine. Having opened to critical acclaim in October 2004, it has moved from strength, gaining a host of awards including a coveted Michelin star. The MW Eat group of which it is a part also delights in the success of sister restaurants Chutney Mary and Veerswamy, as well as the Masala Zone chain.

Discreetly located in the Halkin Arcade off Motcomb Street, Belgravia, Amaya oozes a style and sophistication to match its SW1 postcode. The small but glamourous cocktail bar gives way to a spacious dining area with stripped wood flooring, rosewood panels, terracotta ethnic statues, a water feature and bright, colourful murals. At lunchtime, the tinted glass roof gives a spacious, airy feel in contrast to the cleverly designed spot lighting which helps to create the intimate yet spirited ambience in the evening. Leather seating around well-spaced, dark wood tables is elegant and comfortable. The communal long table for solo or quicker dining is dominated by a glittering array of long crystals, adding real glamour to the room.

Undoubtedly the most attractive feature of Amaya is the open kitchen on the far side of the restaurant. Its multi-coloured wall of jars of condiments and utensils forms a dramatic backdrop to three open grills – the tandoor (clay oven), sigri (charcoal grill) and tawa (griddle). With the chefs at work in a busy service, all this adds an element of spectacle, especially when huge flames leap up. There is also vibrant salad bar with a well-lit display of seasonal produce. This visibility, with no hidden tricks in the preparation or cooking, might account for the restaurant’s name which in Hindi means “free from cunning or deceit.”

Chef Karunesh Khanna has created a wide, seasonally changing menu of Awadhi dishes supplemented by other Asian influences – witness the wok stir fries – and a few European ones such as tandoori foie gras or mandarin and goat’s cheese salad. In true Indian gourmet style, small sharing plates encourage “grazing” before a more substantial biryani or curry is attempted. The menu categories of Salad, Seafood, Poultry, Meat and Vegetables also identify “early,” “mid” and “later” arrivals to the table, giving an indication of their respective cooking times. Menu descriptors also include fashionable references to grams of fat and numbers of calories. Tasting and Gourmet menus supplement the extensive carte with good value set lunches also available.

An exciting range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails is available in addition to a select wine chosen by wine author Matthew Jukes.

However, what really sets Amaya apart from other high end Indian restaurants is its very limited selection of curries and biryanis, (which change monthly), and its overwhelming emphasis on grilled dishes. This requires skilful marinating, the deft balancing of spices, and precise timing of cooking to avoid dishes becoming dry, bland and burnt. In these essentials, Amaya scores very highly indeed as a visit for dinner in January amply proved.

Cabbage & Noodle Salad had pleasingly crisp and soft textures, with a scattering of pomegranate seeds adding colour and sweetness. A dressing of almond, lemon and sesame enhanced the dish, the amount of sesame, in particular, being well judged.

Large diver caught King Scallops were precisely griddled to produce a caramelised crust with delicate melting flesh. Served in their shells, these delectable bivalves worked well with a light, fragrant sauce of mint and coriander.

Tandoori Black Pepper Chicken Tikka bore no relation to the garish specimens encountered in the ubiquitous high street Indian eatery. Tender in texture and well balanced in its spicing, these nuggets of chicken were accompanied a thick dipping sauce. This bestselling dish owed its success to a rich pepper and cheese marinade which made the chicken particularly succulent.

Tandoori Ocean Wild Prawns were equally well executed, the sweet, firm flesh being complemented with dressing of tomato and ginger.

Nalli Barra, an Indian version of lamb osso-bucco, featured the shin marinated with a special blend of warm spices. It benefitted from slow cooking in the tandoor and a finishing masala glaze. As a result, the unctuous meat simply fell off the bone.

The star of the whole meal, amongst a host of memorable dishes, was the Wild Venison Seekh Kebab. The gently smoked ground meat, lightly crusted, moist and well flavoured, was made doubly delicious by a lively pepper sauce piped into the centre.

The two more substantial dishes were models of their kind.

In Prawn Lime Butter Masala, the sauce had a sharpness which showcased in the seafood to its best advantage. Pomegranate and Boondi raita softened the heat of this deeply spiced curry.

The delicately refined dish of Methi Chicken Biryani comprised succulent thigh meat and sauce beneath fragrantly spiced and fluffy (one year old) Basmati rice topped with crispy onions. These elements were finished in the oven in a traditionally pastry sealed pot.

Simple desserts of granita and kulfi completed a memorable meal. Service, overseen by a restaurant manager was welcoming, efficient and knowledgeable, the last being essential given the multiplicity of dishes.

Overall, it is clear why Amaya continues to enjoy its success as a leader in cutting edge Indian cuisine. The cool ambience, exciting buzz and smart décor, combined with the quality of the cooking, both in breadth and depth, make it popular with well-heeled locals as well as those from further afield who rightly see it as a destination restaurant. No wonder Amaya is packed every night. All this comes at a not inconsiderable price, but it is a price regular and special occasion guests alike consider worth paying. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its visit to Amaya immensely and will follow its progress with interest.

Fine Dining Guide first reviewed Latium in June 2014, finding an establishment exemplifying high quality Italian dining on an affordable and intimate scale.

The Fitzrovia establishment occupies an unassuming plot on Berners Street, just north of Oxford Street, and opposite the gaudy facade of the Sanderson Hotel. With intense competition, many independent establishments in the area have struggled in recent years (for example Simplice which closed in 2012). The fact Latium has survived and thrived since its opening in 2003 testifies to the quality of the offering and loyal following this has garnered.

Small is very much beautiful when it came to the finely honed craft of Chef Patron, Maurizio Morreli (together with restaurateur Claudio Pulze) and the front of house team, led by Alex Trumcin. A keenly priced menu, accommodating service and highly skilled cooking all demonstrate respect and authenticity for the cuisine of the Chef’s home region, Lazio.

Knowing of Maurizio Morelli’s passion for cooking game, we took advantage of our second visit to sample the winter menu, which includes a number of game options in season.

Fine Dining Guide visited Latium on a Friday evening in December.

Remembering from our previous visit the wonderful selection of breads and antipasti at the beginning of the meal, we were not disappointed to see this on offer again, with a light and crumbly foccacia being a particular highlight. In addition there were plump green olives, salami and ricotta made on the premises.

The menu was left to the discretion of the chef, with accompanying wines chosen from the predominantly Italian selection, which is impressive both for its breadth and reasonable prices.

Our first dish, a Bresaola, was lean and tender with a wonderful sweetness that was punctuated perfectly by the saltiness of the accompanying anchovy and mild bitterness of the wild chicory. Generous shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano gave the dish richness that was in harmony, with the other ingredients. This was a perfect progression along the antipasti food chain and whetted our appetites for what was to follow.

The next course; of roast Sicilian octopus was well cooked, avoiding the many potential pitfalls to render the meat tender but not without texture. The octopus had been finished using a grill, giving a wonderful caramel flavour on the outer edges. The overall dish was well-balanced with gentle purees of red onion (not too sweet) and chilli (not too hot). Green Beans lent both freshness and crunch.

The first couple of courses were accompanied by Pino Bianco Doc La Prendina from Lombardy. This was one of a number of excellent wines that are also available by the glass.

From the octopus we moved on to the first of the eagerly anticipated game dishes; a guinea fowl ragout served with fresh Stracci pasta. This was a triumph of a dish with real depth of flavour to the ragout and excellent broth. The meat was tender and flavoursome and enhanced by a crumbling of salty Pecorino on top. The vegetables; predominantly chicory and other winter staples, gave a satisfying variation in texture from the soft meat and slightly al dente pasta.

It was hard to imagine this was a dish to be surpassed, however the next course of venison was equally as impressive.

The roasted haunch was served atop Savoy cabbage and sauteed potatoes. The game was precisely timed to be beautifully pink and had clearly been well-rested. The sauce, a venison jus, was rich and intense and helped to bring out all of the flavours of the meat. Although this dish did not have a distinctively Italian feel to it, it was beautifully executed in a way that can surely be appreciated the world over. Not to be overlooked, the cabbage and potatoes were well cooked and perfect accompaniments for soaking up the many flavours of the dish.

It seemed amiss to visit Latium and not partake of at least one of the innovative ravioli dishes, which are a house speciality. On this occasion we sampled a range of the sweet ravioli from the dessert menu (each available separately).

There were three different varieties. The first was stuffed with apple, raisins and pine nuts to give a distinctly autumnal character. This was resting in thin vanilla custard, which contrasted with the slight acidity of the fruit. The other varieties were more adventurous; orange in a chocolate ravioli and pineapple in mint pasta. Both managed to achieve subtlety of flavour without any of the strong flavours dominating the others. The syrups and sauces ensured there was a sweetness to counterbalance the sharpness of the fruit and a wetness to balance the starch of the pasta. Although perhaps an unusual concept to the uninitiated, the sweet ravioli was a definite success and credit to the creativity of the kitchen.

Coffee was accompanied by a generous selection of chocolates and traditional biscotti, produced to the same exacting standards as everything else.

As with our last visit, the service from Alex and his team was attentive and charming without being obtrusive and it is clear that the front of house team is as much a selling point for the regular clientele as the excellent and varied cooking.

With three courses on the evening menu for £35.50, not to mention the three course lunch menu at £22.50, which we will no doubt sample in the future, Latium offers the sort of value that really shouldn’t be overlooked.

Chancery Lane, marking the western edge of the City of London, is noted for its medieval and legal associations, notably the Knights Templar, the High Court of Chancery, legal chambers and the Law Society. Steeped in longevity and tradition, amid inexorable modern development, this area of narrow streets, alleys and cul de sacs, has retained much of its historical character.

Aptly named after its judicial surroundings, The Chancery Restaurant lies at the corner Tock’s Court and Cursitor Street, a quiet but busy thoroughfare to the east of Chancery Lane. Although not as old as the distinguished institutions nearby, its ten year life as an independent restaurant is no mean achievement by central London standards. Opened by Andrew Thompson and Zak Jones in 2004, it has stood the test of time, attracting and retaining a well-heeled and discerning City clientele.

With 40 covers spread across two small dining rooms and a private dining room seating 14-15 – there is also a bar downstairs – The Chancery’s relatively small capacity makes it ideal for more intimate dining. The cleverly designed interior, with archway, white walls and ceiling and large mirrors, give an added sense of space. Pendant lights hang over well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery. Recent refurbishment of black and crimson banquettes add comfort, whilst contemporary interest is provided by the work of artists Tess Jaray, Kenneth Martin, Michael Landy and Gary Walton.

The Chancery’s tenth anniversary sees the arrival of Graham Long whose impressive Curriculum Vitae augurs well for the future. Seasoned experience as sous chef at Sir Charles Napier Restaurant in Chinnor, (2005-9), then at the two Michelin-starred Pied à Terre (2009-11), under Shane Osborn fully established his gastronomic pedigree. This was confirmed by another two years in Hong Kong (2012-14) as sous chef to Shane Osborn at Alan Yau’s new modern European restaurant, St. Betty.

Now, with his first position as Head Chef leading a team of five, Graham is able to give full rein to his passion for seasonal, top quality produce. Provenance is of crucial importance, food being sourced from small local artisanal businesses or from farmers with whom he has direct contact. Both classical and contemporary techniques are used to do full justice to the ingredients. His cooking features multi-component dishes, revealing innovative but harmonious combinations of flavours and textures. Timing is generally accurate, with clean tastes and artistic presentation.

The menus show ambition tempered with a realistic approach to choice and price point. The carte of five starters, six mains and five desserts or cheese charged at £35 for two courses, £42 for three is a relative bargain for central London. This applies also to the six or seven course tasting menu at £55 /£60, or £85 / £95 with a flight of wines. Indeed, good wine, keenly priced and with special promotions, is a well-established feature of the restaurant.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in December, sampling the tasting menu with wines

Firstly, a visually stunning salad of heirloom carrots was warm, soft and gently pickled. It worked well with the bitterness of radiccio, the nuttiness of black quinoa, the crispness of a sesame tuile and the aromatic fragrance of coriander. Creme fraiche gave richness, and acted a sour dressing, lifting the whole dish. (Wine: 2013 Visintini Ramato Pinot Grigo, Friuli, Italy)

The second course proved to be a delightful, well balanced dish: marinated raw hand dived scallops served with an intense cucumber jelly and rich avocado cream, a sesame filo tuile gave contrasting texture whilst the sweet and sour shiso dressing brought the whole dish together, without overwhelming the delicate freshness of the seafood. (Wine: 2012 Terras d’Alter Viognier, Alto Alentejo, Portugal)

Next came a risotto, spiked with Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnuts, and liberally dressed with shavings of black and white truffle. This combination, although luxurious, might have been improved by a richer stock and a less claggy texture. The hazelnuts proved intrusive, rather than complementing the other elements. This was the only disappointing feature across the whole menu.

The fish course saw an accurately timed fillet of Rye crumbed gilt sea bream, partnered with smoked cod roe, the two elements complementing each other well in flavour and texture thanks to the roe not being too heavily smoked. Aubergine puree, pickled salsify and lemon oil worked well with the main ingredients, adding richness and the necessary acidity. (Wine: 2012 Julg Pinot Noir, Pfalz, Germany)

As befitting a winter menu, game featured in the meat course. Tender, well flavoured medallions of loin of herb crusted fallow deer, cooked medium rare,  showed the virtues of precise cooking and the inherent quality of the product. An innovative bacon quenelle and roasted onions added elements of sweetness, balanced by slightly bitter qualities of steamed curly kale and a stout based sauce.  (Wine: 2009 Andrea Oberto Barolo, Piedmont, Italy)

Finally, the two desserts sampled revealed the strengths of the pastry section.

A composite dish of banana and ale bread, banana mousse, salted caramel, and peanut ice cream was highly accomplished. The cake like bread was well flavoured; the mousse delicate; the blobs of salted caramel rich but not overly sweet; and the ice cream velvety smooth. This marriage of tastes and texture was very satisfying indeed.

Similarly, soft, poached comice pear served with tiny warm financiers scented with thyme, scattered with almond crumble and anointed with a quenelle of decadently rich Gosnells mead ice cream proved to be another beautifully conceived and perfectly executed dessert. (Wine: 2011 Weingut Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Kabinett, Saar Valley, Germany)

To finish, the coffee, tea, herbal infusion menu, with helpful notes, gives ample choice.

Other aspects of the meal were exemplary. The sommelier’s choice of matching wines was expertly rendered, with descriptions being pleasingly concise rather than effusive. The service, under the guidance of Zak Jones, was friendly, knowledgeable and attentive without being intrusive. It was also extremely patient as we were over an hour late, having been stuck in traffic on the M4!

Overall, Graham Long has made an impressive start, which is not unexpected given his background in Michelin starred restaurants. Now he is master of his own kitchen, Graham, inevitably influenced by his mentors, nevertheless has a chance to stamp his own imprint on his cuisine. Given that the area is not noted for its fine dining restaurants, he should have little trouble in attracting a wider audience. Fine Dining Guide will follow his career with interest.

The Ravenscourt Park neighbourhood is well served by a plethora of takeaways, cafes and restaurants which line King Street. Representing international cuisines from Algerian to Vietnamese, they compete to attract the well-heeled and multi-national residents of this area of west London.

One local resident, Andy Needham, has recently opened his own restaurant L’Amorosa here, swopping his position as Head Chef at Zafferano, the sophisticated and elegant fine dining Italian restaurant in Belgravia, for his more modest, informal establishment. He brings with him a wealth of experience in Italian cookery, having worked as Giorgio Locatelli’s sous chef for three years, then retaining Zafferano’s Michelin star in his own right for another 13.

Andy’s love affair with Italian cookery, as reflected his restaurant’s name, continues unabated. Now as chef patron, and – remarkably – with only one assistant in his kitchen, he produces dishes of exceptional provenance and delivery.                          .

The essence of Italian cuisine lies in its simplicity. But simple does not mean easy. With relatively few ingredients in each dish, careful sourcing to ensure freshness and quality is essential. Given the contacts Andy has nurtured over his distinguished career, this presents few problems. He is not averse to Importing produce from Italy, such as dried meats, wild mushrooms and burrata, when necessary. Cooking techniques, applied, say, to a slow cooked ragu or risotto or pasta, need accurate timing to maximise taste and texture. The judicious use of oil and herbs, the precision of seasoning, and the balancing of flavours are essential in allowing the natural beauty of produce to shine. In all these respects, Andy scores very highly indeed, revealing a passion for dishes from the different regions of Italy allied with real skill in execution.

That he is able to do this at prices which shame expensive fine dining restaurants is remarkable. The daily changing seasonal menu comprises five starters from   £7 to £9; 6 mains from £11 to £27 (including dishes for sharing); and six desserts (including cheese) from £6 to £9. The all Italian wine list also offers good value with reasonable mark ups across a wide range. The house white, Bianco Borgo Selene, Sicilia, (£13.50) was eminently drinkable and a real bargain at £13.50. Bianco Secco, Quintarelli, Veneto (£59), a rare white blend, was more elegant and refined. Morellino di Scansano, Perazzi La Mozza, Toscana (£34), was complex, full bodied with a persistently long finish. All these matched the dishes eaten well. Some wines are available by the glass, and are priced according.

The restaurant itself, like the food, has a pleasing lack of pretension. Previously occupied by the popular local all-day café Lola & Simón, its folding glass door frontage opens into a narrow, wooden floored and white walled room on two levels. A long bar on the lower level faces well-spaced tables with simple chair and banquette seating, while those on the upper level tables offer greater comfort with upholstered chairs. Well directed spotlighting illuminates the simply decorated room. Overall there is space for 48 diners.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a midweek evening and found much to admire in the rustic yet refined cooking.

A platter of Antipasti included delicately sweet slices of capocollo, the meat found between the hog’s head and shoulder. The finest air dried salted beef fillet – Bresaola della Valtellina – was suitably moist, well-seasoned, rolled, and lifted by a herb stuffing. Sardinian girolles, set on crostini, were simply sautéed to enhance their fruity, peppery flavour. Light Sicilian crispbread contrasted well with these soft textures.

A starter featuring the finest Burrata d’Andria, sourced from the Apulia region of Italy, saw the soft, rich, milky centre oozing from the crust when cut. Dressed with olive oil and rocket leaves, which added a peppery note, this cow’s milk cheese was perched on caponata, a rich, deeply flavoured Sicilian stew of aubergines, olives and tomatoes. Toasted focaccia added the necessary crisp texture to balance the dish.

This was followed by a classic northern Italian seafood dish, cuttlefish in umido. Thick, sweet succulent slices, braised in ink, wine and tomatoes, were offset by a square of fried polenta to soak up the unctuous, flavoursome sauce.

No restaurant menu would be complete without those staples of Italian cuisine, pasta and risotto. But those offered at L’Amorosa’s were far from average dishes.

Silky tagliatelli, rich with egg yolks and chestnut flour, the nutty sweetness of which came through, was tossed in a deeply rich cream sauce of two types of wild mushrooms. The fragrant notes of girolles, combined with the meaty, smooth texture of porcini, elevated this essentially simple dish to gastronomic heights.

Equally  accomplished was fresh pappardelle with salt marsh lamb shoulder ragu. The long slow cooking of this sweetest of cuts did full justice to the lean, dark, almost game like meat, with its great depth of flavour.

Ossobucco with saffron risotto, a speciality of the Milanese, might be described as the ultimate in Italian comfort food. The soft meat of the braised veal shank fell of the bone and could be cut with a spoon. Its marrow enriched the sofrito, white wine and tomato sauce. The risotto, flavoured, coloured and flecked with saffron, was rich, creamy and fragrant. A well-judged gremolata of lemon zest, garlic and parsley cut the richness, adding freshness and balancing the dish perfectly.

Lemon sorbet, light, smooth and refreshing completed this memorable meal. Other desserts, which we were too full to try, included delights such as pear and almond crostata with marcapone and hazelnut bavarese, vanilla ice cream, and expresso coffee.

Clearly, L’Amorosa has made an impressive start under the guidance of its owner who loves both his craft and the area. Keen to get to know his neighbours and customers, of whom there will undoubtedly be many given the accomplished cooking, knowledgeable service, and keen prices, Andy Needham has created more than a neighbourhood restaurant. Indeed, his reputation and achievements are likely to attract lovers of Italian cuisine from further afield. Belgravia’s loss is certainly Ravenscourt Park’s gain. Fine Dining Guide will definitely return and will watch L’Amorosa’s progress with interest.