The Great British Restaurant (GBR) is the new incarnation of Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham at Dukes, London, (2011 to 2017). It has undergone a radical transformation in design and décor accompanied by the equally modern food offering of all day dining. Remodelled, with the removal of the PJ lounge corridor wall, it now features two smaller areas. Gone is the orange and cream of the traditional, conservative feel, to be replaced by a more casual yet luxurious look, featuring tones of blue, black, white and grey.

Antique mirrors, lining the low ceiling and part of the walls, increase the sense of light and space. Equally glamourous is the black granite top bar with upholstered bar stools for seven. Well-spaced granite topped tables have classic leather and velvet banquette or more traditional dining chair seating. Black and white reportage photography line the walls, evoking the hotel’s celebrated past and the guests who frequented it.

Executive head chef Nigel Mendham has now diverted from a career noted for hotel fine dining, including leading the kitchens at the Michelin starred Samling in the Lake District. This is a bold move indeed, necessitating the oversight of three services a day, seven days a week. Diversity in the main lunch and dinner menu is another prerequisite, hence the need for traditional British classics alongside more contemporary, casual and fine dining dishes. Few restaurants would offer, say, confit duck egg, duck liver parfait, fish and chips, treacle sponge and jam rolly poly on the same menu.

The carte includes six starters ranging from £5.50 to £11.50; “A taste of Spring” featuring charcuterie and smoked dishes to share, both at £16; four salads, £14.50 to £18; “Signatures” of chicken pie, GBR burger and sausage roll, £18 to £6; mains from £10 to £28 with sides at £4.50 and five desserts at £6. Overall Prices are reasonable given the quality of ingredients and the large portions. Not forgetting this is St James’s!

The drinks list avoids greedy markups. Signature cocktails are priced £2 to £14; craft beers £6 for 33cl, 13 white and 13 red wines are offered, 7 of each by the glass.

Fine Dining Guide was invited to visit for lunch in mid May, before the official opening.  Restaurant manager Robert Dokler was welcoming and informative, and the service itself was well meaning, if occasionally in need of fine tuning.

Four starters were sampled.

Duck liver parfait was suitably light, smooth and deeply rich in flavour. A crisp Yorkshire pudding added a contrasting texture and proved a novel and memorable idea. A quenelle of caramelised onion, which cut the richness of the parfait, helped balance the dish.

The beautifully sweet, fresh white meat of Norfolk crab was presented on a light mayonnaise. Rye bread melba toast added an element of crispness, and overall the dish worked well, although perhaps not needed was the addition of the cubes of compressed apple.

Wye valley asparagus was accurately cooked al dente. The accompanying hollandaise made this an enjoyable summer dish.  The breaded quail eggs provided a pleasing combination of tastes, while to be completely satisfying, more accurate timing would have produced runnier yolks.

The best of the starters sampled, more suited to a fine dining menu, was the slow cooked confit duck yolk with a smooth, vibrantly flavoured pea veloute and earthy morels. This refined dish allowed the sweet and savoury elements to speak for themselves.

Two contrasting main courses were ordered.

Free range chicken pie had a classic filling of cubes of chicken breast in a white sauce. Generous in size – the dish was enough for two – and rustically presented, the filling perhaps needed a little more seasoning to lift it. The herbed hot suet top crust had striking flavour and with a little tweaking this will prove a popular dish with regulars.

By way of contrast, new season lamb rump was more refined, the quality of the meat was clear – packed with flavour, tender, cooked to retain its moisture and enhanced by classic garnishes of smoked aubergine, confit tomatoes and wild garlic.

Of the side dishes, triple cooked chips had the delicious, moreish quality expected from the preparation. Both the broccoli (with pancetta and almonds) and heritage carrots showed strong produce but demonstrated some cooking inconsistencies that might be expected of a pre-opening kitchen, which can easily be corrected with a sharper focus on timing.

To finish, there was a refined lemon based dessert: a base of lemon curd accompanied lemon parfait, which, topped with confit lemon zest, had perfect texture and a good balance of sweetness and acidity. Lime leaf cream added extra fragrance and softer texture, contrasting also with crisp meringue shards giving a light crispness.

Yorkshire rhubarb dessert was cooked sous vide, in this case it remained too firm and stringy, the ginger crumble was well made, the rhubarb gel was not too sweet and the smooth vanilla ice cream added a contrast of temperature.

Overall, this was a lunch of highs and lows, but it must be remembered the visit was in a period of pre-opening, during which inconsistencies are identified and ironed out. This bold new venture deserves success, and, given the reputation of the chef and hotel, these are likely to be rectified sooner rather than later. Fine Dining Guide will follow the GBR’s progress with interest.

Fashionable Stockbridge, the Hampstead village of Edinburgh, presents an embarrassment of choice to discerning foodies. Purslane in St Stephen’s Street – no relation to its namesake in Cheltenham – is foremost amongst restaurants offering fine dining menus.

The cramped basement dining room has a maximum of 28 covers. The low ceiling, wooden floor, rustic décor – planks line one of the walls – and closely spaced, undressed tables all serve to concentrate the mind on the food.

This emerges from the even smaller kitchen, staffed by a brigade of up to five, led by chef patron Paul Dunning. With an impressive CV, including experience in the kitchens of Marco Pierre White, Jeff Bland, Phil Thompson and Jean Michel Gauffre, Paul’s cuisine blends classical skills with more contemporary influences. Menus are seasonal, with 80% of ingredients sourced from local Stockbridge suppliers. Dishes are harmoniously composed, accurately timed, balanced in taste and texture, and cleanly presented. Generosity is reflected in the large portions, the select wine list which avoids greedy mark ups, and the attractive pricing, ranging from £17.95 for a three course lunch to £55 for a seven course tasting menu.

I opted for latter, keen to sample a range of dishes taken from the full carte in smaller portions.

An amuse bouche of smooth, light butternut squash veloute spiked with wild garlic oil served its purpose in enlivening the palate without stealing the thunder of the courses to come.

A trio of wonderfully fresh scallops were seared to produce caramelised crusts and soft, succulent flesh. The bitter sweet notes of orange marmalade served to emphasise the inherent sweetness of the seafood without overpowering it. Dots of carrot puree added colour whilst basil leaves gave a pleasing herbal fragrance to balance the sweetness of the seafood.

Duck two ways partnered slices of pink, soft breast meat perched on creamed cabbage with a dainty pithivier of its confit leg. Cubes of red wine poached pear cut the richness of the other elements. Here was another labour intensive, well balanced dish which allowed the separate flavours to sing.

Accurate timing of a fillet of sea bream, with its crisp skin and luscious, white flesh did full justice to the inherent qualities of this popular fish. Well-seasoned crushed potatoes and steamed kale added contrasting earthy notes, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a rich mussel and saffron veloute.

Next came rump of lamb, cooked medium rare to maximise the flavour and melting texture of this underrated cut. Boulanger potatoes were presented in a novel but satisfying croquette form. Steamed broccoli and artichoke, braised and pureed, added colour, flavour and texture and an intense olive puree lifted the whole dish.

An optional cheese course – a snip at a mere £5 supplement – comprised five varieties of British and French cheeses, soft and hard, mild and strong, the best being Fourme d’Ambert and Epoisses

A beautifully presented pre dessert, the size of a full dessert, saw a delicate vanilla pannacotta layered with rhubarb jelly and served with a quenelle of ice cream.

Finally a demoulded vanilla creme brulee with orange sorbet and fresh segments provided a rich yet refreshing finish to a highly satisfying meal.

The cooking at Purslane showed strengths in all departments, delighting a packed room of diners. This was enhanced by the seamless service, overseen by the engaging restaurant manager Alex, who, one assistant down on the night I visited, served all the tables with efficiency and good humour.

For over five years, Purslane has maintained its leading position in a highly competitive field. Its understated frontage – the signpost leading to its basement location is easily missed – and uninspiring décor need not detract from the stellar quality cooking, the welcoming, efficient service, and relaxed atmosphere. Fine Dining Guide will return to Purslane to sample other dishes from the carte and will monitor its progress with interest.

They say that location is everything. With this maxim in mind, one can understand the recent move of the much-loved ‘Chutney Mary’ to the West End. With few other fine dining establishments in the area specialising in Indian cuisine, there exists a golden triangle of opportunity between Amaya (Belgravia), The Cinnamon Club (Westminster) and Benares, Tamarind and Gymkhana (Mayfair) which the new St. James Street location will surely capture.

Masala Grill Example Dish: Dahi Puri

But what of the Kings Road location that for 25 years satisfied the hunger in West London for high quality Indian cooking? Thankfully MW Eat, the family team behind Chutney Mary, have chosen this location to launch their newest venture: Masala Grill. Building on the reputation and success of the former venture, the identity of Masala Grill is formed by specialising in authentic family recipes that reflect the different regions of India, bringing together the expertise of sister establishments such as Amaya and Veeraswamy with the innovation and panache of something new.

Example Dish: Masala Grill Muttar Tikki Chaat

The interior of the old restaurant has been revamped to give a less formal feel. Particularly impressive is the domed conservatory, housing a tree and strung with decorative streamers. A rich tapestry of colours – red and amber predominating and exotic objets d’art create an oasis of colour and vibrancy that is thoroughly atmospheric and conjures images of Rajasthan. The menu too offers fresh thinking and it is pleasing to note that innovation has been encouraged, through the creative input of co-owners (and sisters) Namita and Camellia Panjabi.

Inspiration is taken from traditional street food, particularly grilled meats and fish; however there is also a range of curries, biryanis and thalis on offer which showcase both traditional and contemporary Indian cooking.

Fine Dining Guide visited Masala Grill within a fortnight of its opening on a Thursday evening in May 2015.

We were pleased to find a deliberately simple menu, with all offerings except dessert featured on one double sided A3 card. The menu is divided into appetisers (to accompany drinks), starters and main course dishes such as grills and curries. Accompaniments such as vegetable dishes, rice and breads are all listed separately. Prices seem very reasonable with most starters under £10 and the majority of main courses in the £15-20 range.

Example Dish: Masala Grill Malai Chicken Tikka

The wine list is similarly focused on quality and value, comprising around 30 different whites and reds (priced from £23-£90) and a small selection of Champagnes, sparkling wine and Rose. A tempting range of cocktails is listed at £8 each.

We began our meal by sampling a couple of the cocktails. The Passion fruit and mango mojito is a long drink that is both crisp and refreshing, with the sharp and astringent passion fruit offsetting the sweet and fragrant mango. ‘Paradise on Ice’ lived up to its name; a tropical concoction of flavours comprising rum, grapefruit liqueur, guava juice and lime served in a martini glass. These were the perfect aperitifs to whet our appetite for the rich and spicy flavours to come.

We took the opportunity to sample the full range of appetisers from the menu with our drinks.

The crispy fried squid comes in a vibrant red batter, made with gram flour for extra crispiness. The squid meat was perfectly tender and mouthwatering, revealing the virtue of batter and a quick, hot frying.

Example Dish: Masala Grill, Crispy Fried Squid.

The ‘Chicken Sixers’ gave us our fix of chilli and provide a hit of flavour with every bite.

Masala Grill: Chicken Sixer

Meanwhile the Pani puri were palate cleansing marvels! This dish, also known as Gol gappa, consists of small crisp shells of Pani (bread), filled with chopped onions, potato, chickpeas and tamarind. A conical of spiced liquid (Puri) is provided to fill the shells. Although this requires quick action to transfer the Pani Puri from plate to mouth without creating a mess, the challenge is half the fun and the taste is well worth the effort.

Not to overlook some of the classic street food dishes listed on the menu as ‘starters,’ the vegetable samosa chaat is one such delicacy. This comprises a traditional samosa topped with yogurt and chickpeas and a garnish of pomegranate seeds. The cool and creamy yoghurt is the perfect enhancement to the slightly dry samosa crust and adds richness to the simple vegetable filling.

Another was the ‘Mixed Vegetable Bhajia’, the vegetables had a wonderful lightness, which seemed more akin to a tempura batter than a traditional bhajia mix, avoiding any of the soft dough that can beset traditional bhajia.

Main courses were divided into Thalis (tasting dishes), biryanis, grills and curries. We sampled dishes both from the ‘Grill’ and ‘ Curry’ section. From the grill the salmon steak was a particular highlight. The succulent and translucent fillet was marinated in honey, dill, mustard and chilli. The technique of first cooking in a steam oven gave a wonderful moistness to the fillet, avoiding the uneven cooking that one might often associate with grilled fish.

The Raan Khyberi; a lamb dish cooked for 12hrs with a marinade of black cardamom and star anise. Although a grilled dish, this was served with light meat liquor. The meat itself was beautifully soft and gave way to the lightest of fork movements. The tastes were surprising subtle, but this had the advantage of allowing the full flavour of the meat to shine.

Masala Grill: Example Dish Nalli Barra

Prawn Malabari was predominantly flavoured with ginger and curry leaf while the base of the sauce was coconut. This was a rich and spicy dish, best paired with the simplicity of plain rice. The prawns were cooked to perfection having been added at the end of the cooking process to avoid over-cooking and the dreaded sensation of eating cotton wool.

To accompany the curry we sampled the Bhindi Dopiaza, or to translate okra-onions. This was a simple dish, but one full of flavour. The okra had crucial bite and the accompany sauce had good flavour but without over-powering the vegetables. For bread we tried Lacha Paratha. This has a rich, flaky consistency and is almost like pastry to eat. Although very moreish, this is probably better tried with simpler dishes such as the grills and was a little too rich to accompany a coconut based curry – a failure on our part when it came to ordering

Our main dishes were accompanied by a glass of the Aleegory Pinot Noir (Western Australia 2010). At £8.20 a glass, this is very drinkable and is well matched.

The dessert menu offers a number of Indian classics that it would be a pity to miss. One of these is Bebinca, a traditional Goan dessert made with layers of coconut pancakes. With an ingredient list that includes ghee, coconut milk and almonds, this is not for the faint hearted (or those with a cholesterol problem!), however this proved a wonderfully sweet and sticky sensation with a strong hit of nutmeg at the end. For those looking for a lighter option, there is a range of sorbets and ice creams. Both the lychee and orange sorbets may have been improved had the sharpness of the fruit been allowed to come through, but nevertheless made a pleasing end to the meal.

Masala Grill seems certain to successfully cater to displaced business from Chutney Mary. No doubt it will also attract an altogether new crowd, drawn by the informality, quality of cooking and exceptional value on offer. The service is knowledgeable, efficient and unobtrusive. Overseen on our visit by the welcoming and charming deputy manager Johnson Fernandez, it ran very smoothly indeed. Overall, Masala Grill is destined to be another success in the story of MW Eat and one that we shall watch with interest.

Conor Toomey came to Storrs Hall after working with Michael Wignall at The Latymer, Pennyhill Park, (two Michelin stars), where he was promoted to sous chef, followed by a stint in the kitchen at Coworth Park, Ascot (three AA rosettes). This wealth of experience and inspiration has already helped to gain three AA rosettes for the Storrs Hall restaurant.

Conor is a chef who loves the creativity and excitement his career can bring. Accepting that it is a very tough life, but one of choice, he relishes the start of the busy season after the slowness of the winter. He enjoys weddings – unusual amongst highly creative chefs – and has helped to enhance Storrs’ enviable reputation in catering for them, (on average three a month in the summer).

Conor’s approach to sourcing ingredients – the freshest, best quality, seasonal – is axiomatic. Unlike some of his peers, he is not obsessed with local provenance at all costs. He does work with local suppliers – witness the foraged pennywort, wild garlic and hare on his current menu – but will only accept the best, whether local or from further afield.

His menu changes within the seasons and with his suppliers. Some popular dishes, such as loin of hare and his yuzu dessert have remained on the menu for several weeks. Nevertheless, his creative juices are stimulated by new ingredients which he can transform into innovative and exciting dishes. This means he does not have a signature dish as such and his cuisine is constantly evolving.

This approach also helps in the management of his brigade of seven chefs – he needs nine – some of whom, including his sous chef, came with him from Coworth. As a group they are actively involved in suggesting, testing or fine tuning new dishes, giving them a role in the creative process.

Conor’s cooking is unapologetically complex, strong on both classical and modern techniques in producing multi component dishes with satisfying layers of flavour. Freeze drying and dehydrating to create airy powders and granules are part of an extensive range of current cheffy skills. He likes to experiment with interesting, if sometimes unpopular, techniques such as fermentation, as in his fermented cucumber granita with smoked eel parfait, which heightens the sweet and sour taste that no other process can achieve. A water bath is used to soften Jerusalem artichokes before grilling. Strawberries are compressed to create an intense stock. On the other hand, a duck dish is finished with a classic Jus gras in which rendered fat is combined with Xerez vinegar and duck stock.

Other influences on his cooking might include his personal love of curry and raita, hence yogurt with his cucumber granita; or the influence of Michael Wignall who introduced him to a northern speciality, pigeon peas, which appear on the menu as glazed maple peas.

Whilst approving of the current restaurant scene, especially in London, with their “incredible chefs… and massive creativity,” Conor cannot understand the vogue in Nordic design or the trend in relax informality where service takes a nose dive. Fine dining needs a little pomp and ceremony including fine napery, so he would also hate to have his food served on bare tables.

With a mixed client base, and the slow pace of change in the Lakes, he appreciates the need to attract a more local clientele. One method is an attractive price point. The set lunch on Sundays is £16.50 for two courses, £21.50 for three. The seasonal carte offers three courses for £52 with a supplement for cheese. However, the best bargain is the nine course tasting menu at £65, a snip compared with London prices.

Conor’s preference for stronger flavours is amply revealed in an exceptionally generous nine course tasting menu which includes amuse bouches, two seafood, two meat/game, two vegetarian dishes, and two desserts.

To start, one had to be careful not to eat too much of the delicious home-made soda bread and mini baguette

The delicate amuse bouches were a mini meal in itself, showing originality and precise attention to detail. A tapioca crisp flavoured with squid ink dressed with with taramasalata; pork crackling with saffron tapioca with chorizo jam; brioche, pork mayonnaise and truffle; and roasted aubergine puree with bread sticks all offered harmonious combinations which produced flavour explosions in the mouth. Tantalising the palate, with the added fragrance of truffle, they served their purpose well.

In the first course, a lively fermented cucumber granita balanced the intensity of smoked eel parfait. This marriage of fresh and rich flavours, given a dressing of yogurt and herbal lift with dill oil and fresh dill, acted almost as a palate cleanser with its light and refreshing qualities.

A colourful plate of roasted golden and red Heritage beetroot delighted in their vibrancy of colours and flavours. Robble valley goat’s curd added a gentle acidity which balanced the sweetness of the root vegetable. Dainty beetroot meringue simply dissolved in the mouth whilst puffed rye added a necessary crunchy texture.

Next came blackened Cornish red mullet, accurately timed to highlight its rich, shellfish like taste. Accompanied by olive tapenade, compressed celery, shellfish oil espuma, and a Bouillabaisse reduction, these strong flavours complemented each other well, the mullet not being lost amongst the other components. A well-made rouille and grilled fennel, which gave a mild aniseed note, completed this tour de force of fish cookery.

Preparing the glazed loin of hare with its immaculately cleaned rib bones was surely a labour of love. Such delicate meat received the precise timing it needed to maximise rich, gamey flavour. Morels and parsnip puree added a deep earthiness and contrasting texture whilst maple glazed peas provided an interesting nuttiness.

Jerusalem artichokes were cooked sous vide in a butter emulsion before being finished on the barbeque, giving an al dente texture and a slightly nutty taste. This worked well with the slight sweetness of roast celeriac puree, and the herbal boost of parsley oil.

The final savoury course comprised duck treated well in two classical ways, pan roasted breast which was well seasoned and rested, and slow cooked confit leg. Spiced granola added texture and flavour, and sprouting broccoli gave colour and crunch. Braised Yorkshire rhubarb and purees of rhubarb and prunes cut the richness of the meat and a classical jus gras round the dish off perfectly.

Two beautifully presented, complex desserts showed the strengths of the pastry section, employing some unusual ingredients and the latest technological wizardry.

Sweet Gariguette strawberries were delicate, soft and juicy with a pleasing fragrance. They were enhanced with a stock of compressed strawberry, given a lemony lift with wood sorrel and herbal freshness with mint ice. The accompanying quenelle of white chocolate ice cream added richness to this light, well-conceived dessert.

The second dessert might be seen as a playful interpretation of deconstructed lemon meringue. Here the lemon custard was frozen and paired with a Yuzu cremeaux which gave an added boost of citrus. Meringues were flavoured with green tea. Given its powerful nature, fennel pollen was used judiciously in an ice cream, giving it notes of liquorice, citrus and marshmallows.

Overall, it was a pleasure to sample Conor’s imaginative, skilfully wrought dishes. There was much to admire in their sheer labour intensity, thoughtful construction and clean presentation. As one of the few chefs in the Lakes producing cutting edge cuisine, he deserves even greater recognition, especially from the AA, Good Food and Michelin guides. Fine Dining Guide is keen to return on its next visit to the Lakes and will follow his progress with interest.

Set in 13 acres of gardens and grounds, with hillside views of Lake Windermere, Linthwaite House offers gourmet cuisine to match its fashionably designed, contemporarily furnished accommodation.

Linthwaite continues to be garlanded with distinctions and awards. The coveted four AA red stars for accommodation and three AA rosettes for the restaurant make it one of the leading luxury hotels in the area. Not surprising, Conde Nast Johansen granted it the “Most Excellent Country House Hotel” award

More recently, Linthwaite has won the Cumbria Life 2015 award for Best Hotel Restaurant. This is a fitting tribute to Head Chef Chris O’Callaghan, his brigade in the kitchen, and the front of house team.

Chris, who came to Linthwaite in April 2012 from the Michelin starred Paris House, part of the Alan Murchison stable of L’Ortolan, Le Becasse and The Angel in which he spent nine years of his early career. He has had three years to develop his style of cooking. In talking to Fine Dining Guide, he stressed his style had become much simpler. Initially, he was out to prove a point which led to complicated, over wrought dishes. The emphasis now is on clean tastes and tidy presentation. Achieving a perfect custard tart on his dinner menu, for instance, is more important than over-elaborate desserts.

However, simple does not mean easy, hence alongside classical skills Chris has embraced current technical wizardry. Menu descriptions give no idea of the techniques used to enhance his dishes. Chris enjoys the freedom being Head Chef has given him. Creativity there is in abundance: consider, for instance, gin cured salmon, lemon purée, and tonic sorbet, or roasted Cod, cavolo nero purée, hazelnut orzo, artichoke, and prune on the dinner menu. Combinations of ingredients are sometimes unusual but always compatible.

Chris’ passion for seasonal British produce continues. Developing good relationships with top regional suppliers guarantees quality supplies. In line with the restaurant’s excellent reputation for its cheeseboard – Linthwaite has been previously won the Cheeseboard of the Year competition – he works closely with John Natlacen of Churchmouse Cheeses in Kirkby Lonsdale, the “Best Independent Cheese Shop of Great Britain”.

With a brigade of up to nine, Chris took pride in his recruitment policy, given the difficulty in attracting and keeping young staff. His links with the local college, facilitating the training of students for Level 4 NVQs, has resulted in two ex-porters now running sections in his kitchen.

Chris commented that the recent Cumbria Life award has helped boost covers at lunch. Although the priority of his kitchen is to please the guest, regardless of price or awards, he accepted that the attractive price point, £14.95 for two courses, £19.95 for three, helped to build up a client base who will return for dinner. Currently, some 80% of guests for dinner are residents.

Menu alternatives are three in each course for lunch and double that number for dinner, (plus a special each night). Dinner costs £52 whilst a tasting menu – a feature Chris introduced – is also available at dinner for an additional £10. These prices compare very favourably with the local competition.

A diversified, award winning wine list with plenty of Old and New Worlds – includes many vintages which match the food.

Although they lack lake views, the three dining rooms – one of which is small enough for private dining – have decorative mirrors, prints, semi abstract landscape photos and antiques which gain the attention of diners. In the main room, colours, textures and patterns are inspired by nature in a style described as “Raffles-meets-Ralph-Lauren.” Green, pearl and taupe are the predominant shades, balancing the fumed oak and solid wood floors. Banquette and contemporary dining chairs, in a variety of fabrics and patterns are supremely comfortable. Lighting varies from spotlights on tables to bespoke large pendant lamps, giving a background glow at a high level

Drinks in the spacious conservatory lounge, with roaring log fire, preceded a Saturday lunch in late March.

Delicious homemade breads – wild garlic focaccia, white and wholemeal augured well for the dishes to follow.

A starter of smoked salmon mousse was smooth and well balanced. Topped with salmon eggs, the gentle saltiness of which acted as a seasoning, it was dressed with crispy skin which added texture and crispy capers which helped to cut the richness of the mousse. The clean tastes and uncluttered presentation made this a delightful first course.

Equally accomplished was a generous cylinder of ballotine of wild rabbit. Flecked with herbs and well-seasoned, it was suitably moist with a light, gamey flavour. A chutney of butternut squash and cumin added sweet and spicy notes which worked well with the more subtle taste of the rabbit. Crisp seeded puff pastry wheels provided the necessary contrasting texture to this attractively presented dish.

A main course of accurately timed guinea fowl breast was elevated to stellar heights by a seasoning of pesto, hazelnuts and black fermented garlic. Tiny cubes of white balsamic jelly added a counterbalancing sweetness and marjoram gnocchi gave the dish a herbal lift. A rich madeira reduction brought the elements together in this innovative composition, embracing both classic and contemporary techniques.

The most inventive dish was a main course of roasted cod, the soft, translucent flakes of which glistened under shards of crispy skin anointed with nodules of lemon puree. Accompanied by quinoa which gave a contrasting firmer texture, the plate was finished with a flourish of roasted aubergine puree and balls of apple and sage. Visually stunning, with imaginative combination of ingredients that worked well together, this dish typified the attention to detail given to what, in essence, was a simple dish.

Desserts continued to show the versatility of the kitchen

A supremely light vanilla cheesecake came topped with an intense mango gel. A puree of mango and a quenelle of its sorbet piped with white chocolate completed this elegant, refreshing dessert.

Finally, an indulgent dessert featured rich but light salted dark chocolate mousse and a novel hazelnut aero. Orange ice cream provided a harmonious flavour combination and poppy seed Madeleine gave contrasting texture.

Overall, this was a most accomplished lunch made more pleasurable by the knowledgeable, attentive but unobtrusive service. Having enjoyed two previous meals at Linthwaite, this exceeded our already high expectations. Clearly, Chris O’Callaghan and his team deserve the acclaim they have already achieved and have the potential to go even further developing their adventurous cuisine.

The Lawns Restaurant is the proud possessor of three AA rosettes, attracting both a regular, local following and those from further afield.

Not that it has rested on its laurels, which in the main reason why Thornton Hall appointed Matt Worswick as Executive Chef late in 2014. Liverpool-born Matt, 27, will work across the brasserie, private dining, bar /lounge and banqueting suite, leading a 21-strong kitchen brigade. His main role, however, will be to raise the cuisine of the Lawns to even greater heights in order to gain a Michelin star. This will match Marc Wilkinson’s Fraiche in Oxton , currently the only restaurant in Merseyside with a Michelin star.

Matt has already achieved a Michelin star at the luxury Glenapp Castle in Ayreshire in 2013, when he became the youngest chef in Scotland to gain that distinction. Having previously worked with David Everitt-Matthias at Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, (two stars), and Simon Hulstone at The Elephant in Torquay, (one star), his gastronomic credentials were already impressive. As a chef who actively enjoys being behind the stove, like his mentor at Champignon Sauvage, Matt sees his present position as an exciting challenge.

His use of top quality, carefully sourced seasonal ingredients is axiomatic, true for any chef at this level. (Matt has the confidence not to state their provenance, a feature which has become tediously fashionable – and often meaningless – on contemporary menus.) That they are treated sensitively, allowing their natural qualities to shine is fundamental. Classical techniques with modern European influences are preferred to contemporary gadgetry and obsessive experimentation. Matt’s modern European dishes reveal a depth of flavour, the result of accurate timing, well-judged seasoning and harmonious combinations of taste and texture.

The use of less popular cuts of meat, offal, and fish, presenting greater challenges to creativity, is evident across a range of menus. Bavette of beef may appear on the menu du jour; treacle braised brisket and ox tongue as a starter, and ox cheek and oxtail faggot as a main course have appeared on the carte. Similarly, stone bass and gurnard are offered instead of more luxurious alternatives.

Menu descriptions are terse and understated, allowing for an element of surprise in the finished product. Pricing and choices at this level are very fair indeed. For instance, a set lunch is £17.50 for two courses, £21.50 for three. Sunday dinner at £34 has at least 4 options in each of three courses. However, for bona fide foodies and those celebrating special occasions, the £75 tasting menu is the best way of sampling Matt Worswick’s food

A quartet of freshly baked mini loaves with crisp crust and firm crumb included farmhouse white, granary, and onion and onion seed. The last of these was outstanding in aroma, taste and texture. Spread with slightly salted Irish butter, the bread proved so irresistible one had to be careful not to eat too much.

An amuse bouche of cauliflower and smoked eel paired humble and expensive elements in a delightful spoonful.

Open tortellini had silky smooth, delicate pasta encasing a deeply flavoured duxelle of wild mushroom. Crisp barley added texture, cep powder gave a heady fragrance and raw mushrooms added an element of freshness. A veal reduction with a sweet, lip smacking quality served as a sauce which balanced the earthiness of the other elements.

A layered terrine wrapped in cabbage combined the more delicate flavour of chicken with the stronger tasting ham hock. Accompanied by varied shapes of salt baked swede, this unusual pairing worked both in taste and texture. Mayonnaise judiciously spiked with cumin, added a gentle spicy lift. Although lacking a crisp element to balance the soft textures, this was a skilfully crafted and attractively presented dish.

Accurately timed seared scallops had caramelised crusts and soft succulent flesh. Paired with meltingly delicious boneless maple glazed sticky chicken wings, this innovative “surf and turf” combination was garnished with charred leeks and leek puree which added a mild onion taste to the dish.

A deeply flavoured duck breast had its fat well rendered to produce a crisp skin and rich, gamey flesh. The sweetness of the beetroot puree – perhaps an excessive amount on the plate acting as a sauce – was balanced by the gentle bitterness of caramelised chicory. More accomplished were the excellent pommes Dauphine, with their soft interior and crisp coating.

Our selection of cheeses was aided by restaurant manager James Campbell whose encyclopaedic knowledge of flavour, texture and provenance was most impressive indeed. The three pieces chosen – Brillat-Savarin with truffle, Montgomery cheddar and Epoisses; were in a perfect condition of ripeness. Truffle honey with the Brillat Savarin and wine jelly with the cheddar were ideal condiments.

The two well-crafted desserts showed the strengths of the pastry section.

Pineapple cheesecake with a coconut gel proved amazingly light and not oversweet. Its accompanying sorbet was velvety smooth and intensely flavoured. Roasted pineapple completed this composite dessert of contrasting textures and temperatures.

Salted caramel is ubiquitous and has been overused. One exception is the fondant of salted caramel and white chocolate fondant served here. Its meltingly sweet, warm interior and brownie texture was cut brilliantly by a scoop of slightly sour yogurt sorbet. Yogurt meringue and leaves of lemon balm added a crisp texture and herbal fragrance to this innovative dessert.

Overall, this was a well- balanced and skilfully executed menu, displaying strengths in all departments of the kitchen. This is only to be expected given the Matt Worswick’s background and achievements. Whilst his cooking is not cutting edge – and all the better for it – its consistency of execution at a high level, maximising flavour and texture, with a cautious, well considered degree of innovation, are defining features of his cuisine. Fine Dining Guide is optimistic about his prospects of Michelin stardom and will await the 2016 guide in eager anticipation.

Since it opened in 1971, The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge has seen an enviable galaxy of chefs including Richard Shepherd, Brian Turner, Philip Britten and Eric Chavot achieve Michelin stardom. The award of two stars saw its destination restaurant become veritable temple of gastronomy with dining in hushed, reverential tones as a mark to true respect to these culinary gods. Service was suitably formal, encouraged by the sumptuous décor, the arrangement of tables dressed in fine napery, and a desire to emulate classical front of house service.

By way of contrast, the first decades of this century have witnessed remarkable changes in eating out, especially in London. These include the opening of huge scale restaurants often with industrial chic or Nordic look interiors; and the popularity of tapas, sharing plates and street food, all of which are linked with the rise of so called relaxed, informal dining and service.

Thank goodness the Capital has not adopted the worst excesses of these developments. True, the table cloths have been replaced by table mats on the polished wood tables. There has also been a partial redesign, with the mirrored seahorse sculptures, blond wood paneling and mirrored walls creating the illusion of space. However, all are tastefully executed, consistent with the decor of a plush hotel restaurant.

Happily, there are no small dishes where the bill can easily mounts up deceptively quickly, no Scandinavian sparseness and no sloppy, over familiar service in the guise of informality. Uniformed staff remains making it easy to distinguish staff from guests, unlike the fashion in some high end restaurants.

Nathan Outlaw has embraced the trend towards informal dining but it can only be taken so far at the Capital, a bastion of traditional luxurious hospitality which necessarily involves a degree of formality. This does not mean stuffy, condescending or patronising service, indeed the opposite is clearly the case; from the doorman, reception and waiting staff to the sommelier and restaurant manager, it was a pleasure to experience welcoming, helpful and attentive service balanced by a degree of professionalism.

What is to be welcomed is the focus on fish, Nathan Outlaw’s forte, which has earned him two Michelin stars at this eponymous restaurant in Cornwall. Just as his previous employer and long term friend Rick Stein has spawned a dining empire in Padstein – sorry Padstow – so Nathan has expanded in Port Isaac and Rock, with two restaurants in each. The opening and success of Outlaw’s at the Capital saw his triumphant debut in London.

Worries about spreading his talent too thinly can be dismissed knowing that the brigade of ten in the kitchen is led by Peter Biggs, his sous chef in Cornwall for ten years. Delegation to highly trusted colleagues is an essential prerequisite for successful expansion and here it works perfectly.

Clearly the approach to food at Outlaw’s is the same as those of his other establishments: Sourcing of the finest ingredients is axiomatic. At our recent lunch, brill, scallops, sea bass, lemon sole came from Cornwall and hand dived scallops from Scotland. Sensitive treatment of the raw material, enabling natural flavours to shine, is fundamental. Precision in timing and judiciously light saucing enable the chef to do the fish justice without masking its delicate taste. Care is taken with vegetables which are integral parts of the dish

Pricing is realistic given the quality of ingredients, the accomplished cooking and the superior service. The £55 three-course Winter Menu. has four options in each course including one meat alternative for starters and mains. Cheese at no supplement is offered instead dessert. Even better value is the set lunch at £22 for two courses, £27 for three, with three options in each course.

Fine Dining Guide visited Outlaw’s in a busy lunch in March.

Openers to our meal augured well for what was to follow. Deep friend crispy fish balls were amazingly light and grease free, Dipped in herb mayonnaise, they were a delight to eat.

Even better was the rosemary focaccia, soft and fragrant crumb with a thin, crisp crust

An imaginative starter of brill comprised thin slices of cured fillet given a spicy twist with paprika and enlivened with lemon juice and paprika oil. This worked well with the acidity of a bed of pickled peppers. Dill yogurt and chopped dill provided a herbal lift, contrasting with smoked almonds which gave crunch and texture.

Crispy oysters magically retained their ozone fragrance and slimy texture after being bread crumbed and deep fried – two textures in one. Pickled shallots, carrots and cucumber balanced the richness of the seafood. The dish was bought together by an unusual mayonnaise based sauce using oysters, horseradish and cucumber tea. Thus, a familiar dish was transformed into an excitingly novel one.

In a special starter of the day, three hand-dived, wonderfully sweet scallops in their shells were swiftly baked in a Josper charcoal oven, Whilst lacking a caramelised crust resulting from pan searing, this was more than compensated for by an inventive orange and rosemary butter sauce and a gratin of cheddar and rosemary breadcrumbs. The seductive aroma of warm shells added an extra dimension to the dish.  The overall balance of ingredients was impressive, especially as the rosemary could so easily have overpowered the seafood.

A lemon sole main course featured a grilled fillet precisely timed to retain its structure and moistness – not an easy feat with such a delicate fish. The accompanying sprouting broccoli, finished by char grilling, added texture colour and flavour. What made this simple pairing successful was the warm tartare sauce mixed with fish stock, which gave a well-judged richness, and the crispy capers and lemon oil dressing which acted as a seasoning.

A well timed fillet of sea bass was pan fried to produce a crisp skin and firm white flakes of succulent flesh. Perched on silky smooth, mashed potato, it was enhanced by smoked leeks which also gave a gentle crunch, and a deeply flavoured roast chicken dressing which worked particularly well with the other elements.

Herb crusted cod is almost a cliché in most restaurants. What made Outlaw’s version special is the addition of hazelnuts (to parsley, chives, tarragon and butter), giving the oven baked fish a particularly flavoursome and crunchy coating. Spinach with garlic proved a well-considered vegetable, whilst a dressing of mushrooms, shallots, oil and tarragon enlivened by Levin verjus, finished off the dish well.

To finish, four English cheeses in prime condition, including a Nottinghamshire blue and a Cornish five year matured cheddar specially sourced by Nathan Outlaw, proved a good alternative to those without a sweet tooth. Dried treacle bread, thinly sliced like Melba toast, fig and apple chutney and pickled celery, all delicious, showed that garnishes were not a mere afterthought.

Treacle tart, baked to order, had thin, crisp, buttery pastry and a rich not over-sweet filling. The orange and lemon zest balancing the sweetness of the treacle. Topped with a velvety smooth scoop of vanilla ice cream, this simple dessert embodied all the strengths of the pastry section.

Overall, it is not difficult to see why Outlaw’s has been awarded a Michelin star. Invention and creativity are reflected in harmonious combinations, refinement and elegant presentation of dishes, all of which reflect skills of a high order. These are only to be expected given Nathan Outlaw’s talents and his impressive CV, having worked with top chefs such as Gary Rhodes, Eric Chavot and John Campbell. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its visit to Outlaw’s at the Capital and will follow its progress with interest.

Since opening in 2008, Corrigan’s Mayfair has been garlanded with an enviable host of accolades. After just three months it gained (and has retained) three AA Rosettes, with the Evening Standard’s London Restaurant of the Year and the ‘AA London Restaurant of the Year’ following in quick succession. At the National Restaurant Awards it gained one of the highest new entries at number five. Since then, it has featured consistently with high marks in the major restaurant guides.

fine dining guide first visited in 2011, finding much to admire in the welcoming hospitality and generosity of spirit which epitomise the approach of chef-patron Richard Corrigan. Now that new Head Chef Alan Barrins has been at the helm for over a year, it seemed appropriate to revisit.

Certain features of the long, oak floored, low ceilinged room, lit by dainty chained bell shaped lamps – an odd arrangement – remain. Blue leather chairs and soft banquettes, adding to the club like feel, continue to offer comfortable seating around well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery. The art deco antique mirrored walls now provide the backdrop to more recent additions to the decor – paintings from Richard Corrigan’s private collection.

Private dining for 30 can still be enjoyed in the glamourous Lindsay Room, whilst smaller groups of foodies can book the Chef’s Table or Kitchen Library (directly opposite the passe) which seat 12 and six respectively. The glamourous bar, which occupies half of the main dining room, can also be used if all tables are booked.

Happily, the food philosophy remains the same: sustainability, sourcing from small individual suppliers, the use of top rate organic produce – including vegetables from Richard and Virginia’s recently purchased 150 acre estate in County Cavan – are fundamental. This is not the place for cutting edge cookery – and all the better for it. Cooking fads are largely rejected in favour of classical techniques producing honest, robust cooking with bold flavours, including nose to tail dishes, served with generosity.

Head Chef Alan Barrins who came to England 11 years ago from his native Sligo in north west Ireland has a distinguished CV. This includes two and a half years at the Lanesborough with Paul Gayler , Arbutus and Les Deux Salons with Anthony Demetre (also two and a half years), and the highly acclaimed Rockpool in Sydney (two years). However, it was at the more modest but no less worthy Charlotte’s Bistro in Chiswick, where he was Head Chef, that he was discovered by Richard Corrigan, who ordered the whole of the menu in a busy lunch service!

Whilst Richard has a general oversight, ensuring that seasonal produce such as game – including the acclaimed grouse pie – are available, Alan has a large degree of freedom in menu construction, taking the best from his varied experience to put his own stamp on the final product. He hopes to take the restaurant further, developing the underused bar area and creating sharing dishes such as whole terrines, casseroles and roast suckling pigs, especially for the private dining rooms.

With a brigade of up to 12, Alan’s kitchen can provide for 120-130 covers, maintain a consistently high level of cooking. This is no mean achievement given the extensive a la carte menu which features 11 starters, 12 mains, and 6 desserts. Menus also change each month. Particularly busy times are Friday lunch, and Sunday lunch where a highly competitive price is charged for three courses (with five options at each stage). At dinner, trolley dishes such as rib of beef and suckling pig allow for an element of old fashioned theatre in the highly refined service.

The magisterial wine list is arranged primarily by wine characteristics, rather than by region or grape. This makes for interesting reading, particularly as the sommelier mixes and matches the idea according to peoples’ general understanding of wine tastes, grapes and regions: A style we may find expanded upon by other restaurants in due course. The wines chosen by the sommelier for our meal skilfully matched the chosen dishes.

Restaurant Manager Magdalena Gorska is affable and welcoming, helping to put diners at their ease. Her experience at Claridges, not to mention Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous Chelsea restaurant and the Savoy Grill has stood her in good stead for the more personal service which she prefers and can offer at Corrigan’s. Exchanging her training as a sommelier for management, she is a knowledgeable front of house, engaging and likeable. Leading an efficient, friendly and unobtrusive team, she ensures the service operates as a well-oiled machine, but one with personality and humour.

fine dining guide returned to Corrigan’s on a Thursday evening in March to sample dishes from the carte. Menu descriptions are understated, allowing for an element of surprise when the dish arrives.

An aperitif of champagne – NV Paul Dethune, Ambonnay Grand Cru – was the perfect accompaniment for canapes of olives stuffed with soft cheese, crumbed and deep fried, and mushroom vol au vents exuding the heady fragrance of shaved truffle.

Well baked Irish soda bread and baguette had crisp crusts and firm crumb.

Cooking dishes employing luxury ingredients is hard to achieve unless the raw ingredients and cooking time are perfect. Both were amply demonstrated in a Shellfish cocktail starter which featured poached lobster and crab dressed in Marie Rose sauce. Beautifully fresh, the generous chunks of lobster retained their succulence whilst delicate flakes of white crab meat were sweet and bursting with freshness. These were topped with a giant prawn tempura –again perfectly timed – which added warmth and crispness. These elements were lifted by lemon – properly wrapped in muslin – and suitably accompanied by Melba toast. Here was a traditional simple starter raised to lofty heights, allowing the main components to speak for themselves.  (Wine: 2012 Pouilly-Fume Cuvee d’Eve, Dom. Des Berthiers – Loire Valley, France)

A seared veal sweetbread benefitted from a caramelised crust encasing a meltingly soft, creamy interior. Accompaniments of sweet onion puree contrasted with crisp grilled calcot, both adding a deep earthiness to the dish. Capers and cornichons, cut the richness of the offal, giving an acidic bite, whilst a reduced red wine jus brought the whole dish together.  (Wine: 2013 Gruner Veltliner, Loiserberg, Loimer-Kamptal, Austria – pungent, peppery)

A precisely timed main course of roast saddle of rabbit was soft and moist. Wrapped with its liver and kidney in Parma ham, the dish would have been improved if the offal was served separately as it tended to overpower the delicate flavour of the flesh. Carrot puree and al dente white asparagus were suitable garnishes, adding sweetness and texture, whilst three cornered garlic gave colour and a herbal freshness. Crispy chicken skin and a rich jus completed the composition. (Wine: 2011 Bourgogne Rouge, Pinot Noir, Domaine Rion, – Burgundy, France.)

It was pleasing to see the humble lamb rump, an under used cut often used in set lunch dishes, appearing as a main course on an a la carte menu. This is one of the few ingredients that is prepared sous vide (at 40-60 degrees for five hours I am told), then finished in the pan. The result was wonderfully flavoursome and unctuous, a real triumph of meat cookery. Served with its sweetbreads – delicious but not needed given the very generous portion of rump – the dish was enhanced by a rich jus spiked with golden raisins, adding sweetness to balance the earthy flavours of sauted wild mushrooms and roasted salsify. (Wine: 2012 Chianti Classico, Isola e Olena – Tuscany, Italy)

A side dish of potato gratin was rich, well-seasoned and not over creamy. Crisp green beans with garlic and preserved lemon proved an excellent combination.

Finally, the skills of the pastry section were shown in the two desserts chosen for their relative lightness.

Rhubarb crumble soufflé – properly made with crème patissiere unlike many contemporary versions – was well textured and flavoured. The ginger crème Anglais worked well with the slight tartness of soufflé. Happily there was no attempt to pour the sauce into the soufflé, a practice I have never understood as it spoils both elements. Velvety smooth ice cream, again served separately, gave another temperature dimension to this accomplished composite dessert

A trio of ice creams – Vanilla, Cornflake and apple and Calvados – proved another appropriate dessert after two generously portioned savoury courses.

Good expresso, macaroons and Bailey’s chocolate truffles completed a memorable meal.

Overall, Corrigan’s Mayfair is firing on all cylinders. Dining here is not cheap, but prices on the carte reflect the superb quality of the produce, the skill in cooking and the excellence of the service. More accessible options, perhaps for those dining for the first time, are the weekday lunch Market Menu (£29 for three courses) and the Sunday Lunch. However, for special occasions, the extensive choice from the carte – perhaps even dining in the Kitchen Library – is not to be missed. Fine Dining will certainly visit again, perhaps in the autumn season to sample the abundance of game dishes for which Corrigan’s is renowned, and will follow the restaurant’s progress with interest

Located at the junction of Albany Street and Dublin Street, in a quiet corner of Newtown, The Magnum Restaurant and Bar is slightly off the beaten tourist track. It is, however, close to city centre, with York Place, St Andrew’s Square and Princes Street only a few minutes’ walk away. A well-established feature amongst locals – it has been on the same site for over thirty years – Magnum has benefitted from a makeover by owner Chris Graham. The wide exterior frontage in green remains much the same, but inside the dark grey walls punctuated by red cornices give a smart, elegant feel. This is enhanced by soft wall lighting, chandeliers and photographic prints. As befitting its name, magnums of champagne liberally decorate the bar area.

All this contrasts oddly with fairy lights which drape the large windows. In daytime they look odd, but at night they provide an attractive glittering effect to brighten an essentially dark room.

Well-spaced, polished wood tables and black leather upholstered chairs are arranged across three dining areas. With space for 40 covers, or 70 if the bar is used, they provide a comfortable and relaxed environment.

Flexibility is the hallmark of eating at The Magnum. Guests have a choice of dining rooms and can choose from either the bar menu or the carte. In the great Scottish tradition portions are generous and prices are very fair given the quality of ingredients – sourcing is a major priority – and the skill shown in the cookery. The set lunch and early evening menu is a snip at £12.95 for two courses, £14.95 for three. Starters on the carte range from £4.95 to £8.95, mains from 12.50 to £22. 50.

An interesting Old and New World wine list, with helpful, concise notes, puts quality above quantity at prices not to be sneered at. This also applies to the champagne where the Bollinger Special Cuvee is a relative bargain at £72.

An interesting set of menus – bar, set and carte – offer ample choice: for instance, the a la carte menu has six starters and nine mains. Due respect is paid to Scotland’s culinary heritage, as shown in Cullen Skink, Buccleuch or Vegetarian haggis and Cranachan cheesecake. Mediterranean influences come with courgette frittata, open lasagne, and pea and parmesan bruschetta. Even more traditional mains – burgers, steaks fish and chips – come with adventuous garnishes.

Monday lunchtime may lack the buzz of a busy weekend but offers a more peaceful, relaxing couple of hours to enjoy Magnum’s cooking.

Scallops with black pudding buttons, tomato confit and herb oil from the carte proved a well-conceived “surf and turf” starter. The scallops were accurately seared to give a caramelised crust and soft, succulent flesh. The black pudding was particularly flavoursome, whilst the tomato confit added a moderate degree of sweetness, balancing the savoury elements. The oil finished the dish perfectly, adding a herbal lift.

My main course of seared duck breast was well rested to maximise its flavour and tenderness. Perched on slices on new potato, it worked well with wild mushrooms and broad beans which added deep earthy notes, and sweet roasted shallots. Smoked bacon lardons and a deeply flavoured broth added further layers of flavour to this attractively presented and substantial dish. Indeed, the portion was so large it did not need the bowl of delicious thick cut chips which I had mistakenly ordered as a side dish.

The dessert of Assiette of Apple comprised three elements: a miniature tatin of perfect pastry and rich caramel; a creamy panna cotta set to the correct degree of wobble; apple puree and a refreshing sorbet with the right balance of sweetness and acidity. Apart from the over thick brandy snap basket, this was a well-executed dessert.

Clearly, The Magnum offers an experience equal to available at some of its more expensive but less inviting competitors closer to the city centre. It has, nevertheless, attracted a loyal following of locals who admire its consistency and high standards of cooking. The welcoming, efficient and helpful service of a young front of house team also makes a visit to the restaurant a memorable occasion. fine dining guide is happy to add The Magnum Restaurant & Bar to its portfolio and will watch its progress with interest

Edinburgh is a great walking city par excellence. Whether in the Old or New town, or in the revitalised port of Leith, the best way to discover new eateries is on foot. I am constantly surprised by new openings or by old ones accidentally overlooked. Even along the Golden Mile, that well- trodden path for locals and tourists alike, there is joy in finding a restaurant of distinction.

One such gem, undiscovered by fine dining guide until recently, is Wedgwood, which opened in 2007. Nestled amongst a row of terraced outlets in Canongate, the lower, less crowded section of the Royal Mile, its modest shop front exterior belies the accomplished cooking and excellent service within. Owned by chef Paul Wedgwood and his wife Lisa who acts as front of house, it represents the culmination of a dream to provide fine dining cuisine in relaxed, agreeable surroundings.

Lack of pretension characterises the décor, furnishings and lighting in the ground floor dining room, which has a modern chic look. This is enhanced by the eclectic wall and overhead lighting. In two rooms, accommodating 20 and 18 covers respectively, well-spaced, polished wooden tables and high backed leather chairs make for comfortable dining.

Achievements to date have given Wedgwood an indisputably high ranking in the Edinburgh dining scene. In 2010, 2012 and 2013 it was named Scottish Restaurant of the Year in the under £35 category by the Scottish Licensed Trade News (SLTN). Other accolades have included being voted the UK’s Best Up and Coming Restaurant by Harden’s Restaurant Guide, and listed as one of only four Edinburgh restaurants in the Fodor’s Choice Distinction Award.

Paul’s cooking techniques are classically based, with little evidence of contemporary faddish technicalities. Accuracy in timing, consistency of flavour, and workable combinations of tastes and textures are paramount. His mentor and inspiration, for whom he worked, was John Tovey, chef patron of Miller Howe in Windermere, the destination restaurant of the 1980s. The same generosity of spirit and attention to detail pervades his cooking. A constantly evolving menu, changing with the seasons and being fully overhauled four times a year, reflects the glories and bounty of Scottish produce.

The lunchtime set menu, with a choice of four in each course, is a snip at £16.95 for three courses, £12.95 for two. Prices are more realistic for dinner, when the a la carte menu offers a much wider choice. A large percentage of the clientelle are regulars, reflecting Wedgewood’s increasing popularity amongst discerning foodies.

Visiting on a busy Mother’s Day lunch, I was surprised to see there was no special promotion. This clearly indicated the confidence in maintaining the popular set lunch offering. However, I was delighted at the flexibility, having arranged it earlier by phone, of being able to sample some dishes from the evening carte.

Whether at lunch or dinner, and unlike many popular restaurants, tables at Wedgwood are not turned, which encourages relaxation and enjoyment. Indeed, time is necessary to consider choices as the carte offers an embarrassment of riches, with an innovative take on classical dishes. In this respect the marketing of “Deciding Time” – a glass of champagne with a selection of canapes – has proved popular amongst those who have trouble choosing.

For those who opt out of this indulgence, warm ciabatta with smoked rosemary olive oil proved a lighter and highly agreeable alternative.

My first course featured three plump langoustines, precisely timed to preserve their essential sweetness and succulence. They were perched on sauerkraut laced with apple and raisins, sandwiched between slices of Granny Smith. This gentle combination of sweet and sour flavours and soft and crisp textures balanced the seafood perfectly. Although the accompanying langoustine aioli needed more punch, this was more than compensated for by the other star on the dish – three unctuous pig’s tail croquettes, coated in panko crumbs to maximise their crispness. Overall, this original, beautifully presented surf and turf combination could not fail to impress.

Other unusual dishes amongst the ten starters that have been well received include the intriguing Lobster Thermidor crème brulee and Pressed lamb’s tongue with coffee roasted carrots.

For the main course, I opted for a rabbit dish. Notoriously difficult to cook, the meat is prone to dry out unless treated sensitively. Here, Paul’s classical training stood him in good stead. The whole loin was covered in a farce of its offal before being wrapped in pancetta, seared in the pan and finished in the oven. The moist, delicately flavoured result – accomplished only using sous vide methods by lesser chefs – was a tour de force of accomplished cooking. To add deeper flavour and contrasting textures, a “stew” of chorizo, wild mushrooms and butter beans proved an hearty, robust accompaniment. A drizzle of pesto added a lively herbal note whilst a rich, but not over reduced red wine jus brought the whole dish together. Here was a dish, full of Mediterranean influences, of which the chef can be justifiably proud.

Again there was much to choose from in the list of nine main courses. A particular favourite fish option is the sesame and soy glazed sea trout with crispy scallop roe, pak choi and lobster and black bean nori roll.

Dessert proved difficult to choose. Finally, I opted for the lightest, given the generosity of the previous courses and did not regret it, despite my usual greedy appetite! Coconut pannacotta had a velvety smooth texture and nice degree of wobble. This worked well with warm spiced pineapple and an intense beetroot sorbet which added a deep, icy note. Shards of meringue and a good old fashioned rugged English style macaroon – how rare is this seen nowadays? – gave contrasting crispness. Set on a dark plate, this was another stunningly presented, well conceived and skillfully executed dish.

Overall, this was a most enjoyable meal, enhanced by the welcoming and informative service. Lisa, who detailed the cooking of the rabbit dish, is a charming and engaging front of house, leading a young team who are efficient but unobtrusive. Having left the wine to the discretion of the host, the German Riesling and Austrian spiced red proved excellent partners for the savoury courses.

I do have regrets about dining at Wedgwood. The first is not having discovered it sooner, to see how it evolved since its inception. The second is that – unusually – I lacked a dining partner so could not sample some of the other offerings. Given the chef’s twist on classic dishes, what, for instance, was his take on” Black Forest Gateau” or “Very sticky toffee pudding” or Cheddar and onion bread and butter pudding as a starter?

Nevertheless, a meal at Wedgwood is to be savoured and enjoyed. Its relative longevity in a highly competitive industry in which many do not survive, and the accumulation of accolades, are a testament to its success. Fine Dining Guide will doubtlessly visit again and follow its progress with interest.