“Small is beautiful.” This maxim could well apply to Condita with its lack of reception and bar, two in the kitchen, three at front of house, six tables, only two dining options, and a wine list of 20 bottles.

The exterior and location are distinctly low profile: the unremarkable white frontage bearing the name Condita, with blinds obscuring the view from outside, gives little indication this is a restaurant, except for a small notice in the window. Its Salisbury Place address in the Newington district, south of Edinburgh’s Old and New Town, lacks the advantage of a central location or the gastronomic reputation of Leith or Stockbridge.

These limitations are seen as virtues by owner Mark Slaney who opened Condita in November 2018. Certainly, a reception and bar are impracticable given the small size of the room. Two tasting menus make economic sense, minimising food waste. The need to book in advance reinforces this. A short, mainly organic and biodynamic wine list from artisan producers, also reflects the owner’s experience in his parents’ restaurant and as a commercial wine buyer.  Six tables facilitate a high staff to guest ratio, giving well-focused personal service and enables the kitchen to function at optimum level.  The understated exterior belies the eclectic décor and gastronomic delights inside, whilst the location in an area bereft of fine dining establishments, offers a much needed neighbourhood restaurant of quality. Indeed, with detailed records kept of diners – an advantage of a small restaurant – repeat custom is already evident, including one couple visiting three times in the three months since opening.

Not that Condita only aims at a local clientele. By engaging Conor Toomey, a chef with a highly distinguished pedigree, it will inevitably attract discerning foodies from further afield. Conor built his reputation as Michael Wignall’s sous chef at the Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park in Surrey, which held two Michelin stars, and as head chef at Storrs Hall hotel in Windermere, Cumbria and Amberley Castle in Sussex.  Most recently, he led the kitchens at the Michelin starred restaurant at the Isle of Eriska hotel in Oban.

His current position, far removed from those large, corporate establishments, allows him greater freedom to develop his repertoire in line with Mark’s strategy of championing artisan producers and keeping the operation small. Although it is still evolving, Conor’s cooking, based on classical roots but using contemporary techniques, has already reached stellar levels. Highly technical and complex, it employs organic seasonal produce, including fruit and vegetables from a Victorian kitchen garden in the Borders. As Conor says, “It’s all about the ingredients.” Dishes involve harmonious tastes, textures, temperatures and colours, with care taken to avoid over elaboration.  Invention, moderated by a clear understanding of how to maximise natural flavours, are much in evidence. Precise timing, with judicious seasoning and saucing, showcase seafood, meat and game at their best, reflecting great respect for the raw material. Attention to even the tiniest detail is astonishing. Beautiful presentation, on a variety of porcelain, slate and stone, is clean and precise without being too contrived.

An element of fun is also evident. The only clue to the eight or five course surprise tasting menu is a single strip of card with hand drawn images of an ingredient for each course. These may comprise the main or a minor component – the diner is left guessing. Added to the mystery is the addition of “snacks” which may arrive between courses and be larger than a course itself!

Prices – £80 for eight courses, £50 for five –  are realistic, given the quality of the ingredients and expertise in cooking. They also compare favourably with London restaurants of a similar standard.

A visit on a weekday evening in February finally revealed Condita’s high ceilinged, white walled interior, adorned with cascading hand-painted paper drapes designed by Rachel, Mark’s artist partner. In keeping with the food and drink philosophy, the décor moves with the seasons, the silver and black design reflecting the tone and mood of winter. Well-spaced polished wooden tables, which usually seat two or four but can be extended for six, are arranged in lower and raised areas with spotlighting and candles giving discreet lighting.

Initially, from a choice of three autumnal beverages, we chose a non-alcoholic pear juice. We declined a wine flight with each course, opting instead for just three tasting glasses.

A playful first course featured a Shetland mussel poached in seaweed, resting on cod roe mousse, encased in a delicate “shell” of thin potato. This was a delightful composition of fresh tastes and contrasting textures.

Similarly inventive was the second course of poached haddock, where the mildly sweet flakes of soft white flesh were sandwiched between crisp sheets of chicken skin. Smoked creme fraiche and egg yolk puree added richness, whilst pickled seaweed gave the required degree of acidity. The presentation of this dish, on grey slate garnished with tree bark and leaves, was stunning.

Next came two “snacks.”

Slow cooked ox tongue and tail (above left), meltingly tender morsels of deliciousness, showed how excellent use could be made of humble, neglected parts of the animal. Enveloped in a potato foam of ethereal lightness, the effect was rich, but not heavy, fittingly appropriate for a snack.

A glazed chicken wing (above right) cooked on a Japanese barbecue had a gentle smokiness which complimented the richness of the smoked eel hidden inside. This marriage of modest and extravagant ingredients worked particularly well.

The vegetarian course saw different preparations of celeriac: salt baked and puree, both of which accentuated its sweetness; in a lively, crunchy remoulade; and as delicate crisps. This well-conceived and deftly executed dish demonstrated the versatility of the ugly looking vegetable.

At this stage, and presumably to stop diners gorging themselves ahead on a multi course menu, we were presented with a warm sour dough loaf baked daily by sous chef Spyros. With a crisp crust and firm, mildly lactic crumb, it was a model of its kind.

Expecting another vegetarian course, this time showcasing salsify, we were surprised and delighted to be served pheasant. A notoriously difficult bird to master, it was cooked to perfection with moist, crisp skinned breast and a flavoursome pastilla of its leg meat and offal. Salsify, with its creamy white flesh, added a crunchy texture and a taste similar to oyster. The dish was bought together by a light, well balanced thyme and bay jus, which complimented the gentle gaminess of the pheasant.

Misled again by the “menu” into expecting celery as a main component, we were spoilt with a second game course! The loin of venison was accurately timed to a blushing medium rare, maximising its deep flavour and smooth, firm texture. A disc of black pudding provided a softer, earthy element that worked well with the venison. Golden beets and apple puree gave sweetness and acidity to balance the richness, scurvy grass added a peppery note, and celery offered a crunchy freshness. Finished with a light jus, this inventive dish was a tour de force of game cookery.

The cheese course of brie, fresh and pickled pear, pear gel, hazelnuts and wafer thin flatbread, showed yet another imaginative approach to simple, seasonal ingredients.

Desserts, often the anti-climax of tasting menus, did not disappoint, being equally if not more accomplished than the savoury courses.

Parsnip in a dessert has been tried elsewhere, but rarely as successful as here, where the parfait and puree were of exemplary consistency and smoothness.

Even better was a composite dessert featuring forced rhubarb with white chocolate, almond custard in edible silver, white chocolate panna cotta, and rosemary crumble. Although unapologetically rich, the herbal and sharp elements from the rosemary and rhubarb ensured it was not too sweet.

Black coffee with home-made Garibaldi biscuits and beetroot and raspberry teacakes completed a memorable meal. The gastronomic experience was enhanced by welcoming, knowledgeable and unobtrusive service involving the whole team: Rachel conducted the meet and greet and served the pre-prandial drinks; Marisol, our waitress, served some of the courses, assisted by sous chef Spyros and Conor himself; and Mark took our order and presented the wines – a floral and honeyed Fiano, a rich and spicy Le Mani, a full bodied red Pignatello and a sweet Jurancon – with a succinct description of their provenance and characteristics.

Condita comes from the Latin to “set up”. The evidence after just three months opening in the low season for restaurants is most encouraging, well on the way to meeting Mark’s vision of “making people happy” with an intimate dining experience of fine food and wine. Overall, the team have now established a restaurant of which they can be justifiably proud. Fine Dining Guide wishes Condita well and hopes to return to sample a different seasonal menu. We look forward in eager anticipation to its inclusion in the respected national restaurant guides.

Bistro Deluxe by Paul Tamburrini at the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel is a welcome addition to the rapidly expanding high end restaurant scene in Edinburgh. Located near the base of the Royal Mile, adjacent to the Scottish Parliament, it fills a much needed gap in Edinburgh’s Old Town which is  which largely bereft of fine dining establishments. At least SMPs have a neighbouring restaurant of quality away from the bustle of their own establishment. However, it is attracting attention from a much wider field of discerning foodies.

The spacious wooden floored dining room has an inevitable corporate feel but is no less attractive for that. With a bar at one end, it is dressed in warming tones of brown, grey and cream, with well positioned wall and spotlighting. Comfortable leather banquettes and smart curved backed dining chairs are arranged around well-spaced, marble or wooden topped tables, providing a maximum of 80 covers. Dominating the view as you walk in is the PT motif of the eponymous chef.

Paul Tamburrini’s impressive CV includes leading positions in prestigious Scottish restaurants. He was executive chef at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow, then head chef at Cameron House, Loch Lomond, and, most recently, chef director at the Honours Brasserie in Edinburgh. His association with Michelin starred Martin Wishart is therefore well established, so it was only a matter of time before Paul set up under his own name.

Paul’s confident cuisine is inspired by renowned French chefs Guy Savoy, Michel Bras, and Frédéric Anton but bears its own creative hallmark. Sourcing of the finest, mainly Scottish, produce is the essential prerequisite for dishes with sometimes unexpected yet compatible combinations. Variations in taste, texture, temperature and colour give interest to precisely timed, finely tuned cooking. Plates are not overcrowded, sometimes with only three ingredients, allowing the main one to shine, and letting flavours to speak for themselves. Presentation, on a variety of porcelain and earthenware, is clean and precise.

The a la carte menu, which moves with the seasons, has six to seven choices in each course in addition to oysters, five steaks from the Josper Grill, and two sharing dishes – rack of Scottish lamb and cote de beouf. This is a sensible balance between the creative and more established, safer offerings. Pricing is realistic, given the quality of the ingredients and the skill in cooking. Appetisers range from £7.50 to £12.50, mains from £17.50 to £25, and desserts from £8 to £16, the latter being a tarte tatin and panna cotta ice cream for two.

A wide range of Old and New World countries feature on the 80 bottle wine list, with prices mainly between £20 and £50.

A visit on a quiet evening in February lacked the exciting buzz of a busy weekend service but was no less enjoyable for that. Moreover, without major distractions, we could concentrate on the food, which certainly did not lack sparkle.

A tasting menu, featuring smaller portions from the carte, delighted in its range of deftly prepared courses.

We began with simple yet sophisticated starter: a seared tranche of foie gras with warm potato mousse. The delectable piece of buttery offal was partnered with an ethereally light, silky potato mousse. Although both elements were rich and fully flavoured, the overall effect was not heavy, indeed, we were left wanting more! Overall, to marry the extravagant with the humble was an inspired idea which worked well, reflecting an assurance in the cooking. (Wine: Weitgasse Gruner-Veltliner, Mantelhof)  

Next came a pressed terrine of baby beetroot, which, unlike many inferior versions, was not too gelatinous. Vibrant in colour with a good balance of sweet and earthy flavours, it was accompanied with a yogurt foam topped with dried broccoli crumbs which gave contrasting textures and tastes.  (Wine: Semillon /Sauvignon Blanc, Fraser Gallop Estate)

Orkney scallops are one of the treasures of Scottish seafood. Here, the cooking did full justice to this highly prized bivalve.  Accurately timed to produce a seared crust with soft opaque flesh, it retained its essential sweet flavour and succulent texture. Along with a smear of – now ubiquitous – cauliflower puree, the scallop was paired with caramelised cauliflower florets of contrasting texture and dressed with a fragrant, but not overpowering curry oil. These elements complemented each other well and with only three ingredients on the plate, there was nowhere to hide, not that was there was any need with this dish. (Wine: Weitgasse Gruner-Veltliner, Mantelhof)

Equally accomplished was a course of ox cheek braised in red wine. The meltingly soft texture and deep flavour of the meat, the result of long slow cooking, was enhanced by the addition of mushrooms, baby onions and lardons, giving a bourguignon effect.  Smooth, smoky mash proved the perfect accompaniment, soaking up the rich sauce, more of which was offered separately. (Wine: Pinot Noir, Garzon Single Vineyard)

Finally, key lime pie proved a suitably light, tangy dessert to end the meal. The lime curd had a good balance of sweet and sharp flavours, whilst coconut sorbet provided a refreshing counterpoint. Shards of meringue gave height and crispness to this well-conceived and attractively presented dessert of contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures.

Good coffee and petit fours completed a memorable meal. It was enhanced by the welcoming, knowledgeable, efficient and unobtrusive service led by manager Adshead who also selected the flight of wines and gave a succinct description of each. His extensive experience at other top Edinburgh hotels ensured the service would be seamless.

Paul Tamburrini’s restaurant has entered a highly competitive market in the gastronomic capital. Given the strengths demonstrated on our visit, its chances for long term success are strong. Fine Dining Guide will revisit to sample other dishes from the menu and will follow its progress with interest.

Maidenhead, a prosperous Berkshire town on the banks of the Thames, has long existed in a gastronomic vacuum. Its entries in the restaurant guides have been few and far between. Even the recent improvements to the town centre have culminated in the opening, on a prime site, of another chain eatery. This has been a major anti-climax to the town’s culinary fortunes or is that misfortunes?

However, neighbouring towns and villages – Marlow, Henley, Cookham, Burchetts Green, White Waltham, Paley Street and, of course, Bray – have filled the gap; that is, until this October, when Roux at Skindles opened its doors.

Located on the east side of the Thames, adjacent to Maidenhead Bridge, and at the entrance to a prestigious Berkeley homes development, it stands of the site of the legendary Skindles Hotel, which had become derelict by the mid-1990s. The handsome three storey yellow bricked building finished to a high specification houses a spacious reception, brasserie and terrace on the ground floor; a cocktail bar and balcony on the first; and the Chairman’s Room for private dining on the second floor. The brasserie itself has a raised area with banquette seating opposite the open kitchen and a brighter area, the floor to ceiling windows of which give views of the terrace and Thames. Undressed, well-spaced tables have a capacity for 80 covers.

Roux at Skindles is the joint project of Michel Roux Senior, OBE, and his son Alain, Chef Patron. Their aim is not fine dining – the surrounding area is crowded with Michelin Stars, including the Roux’s triple starred Waterside Inn – rather to showcase classic and contemporary French brasserie cooking at reasonable prices in comfortable, convivial and relaxed surroundings. In typical French tradition, children are welcome with the provision of special menus. Breakfast, afternoon tea (May to September), lunches and evening bites are also available in the Cocktail Bar, allowing guests flexibility of choice.

With Maxime Walkowiak as General Manager and Rajkumar Holuss as Head Chef, both with considerable experience at the Waterside Inn, the impeccable Roux stamp is firmly embedded from the start. It is also seen in such dishes as “grandpa Benoit Roux’s country pate with sourdough” on the menu.

The well-judged carte allows a good choice for diners without putting undue pressure on the kitchen. Nine starters are priced from £8.50 to £14; ten mains from £15 to £27; (sides £3.50); and six desserts £5 to £8.50. There are also daily specials and a festive course set menu, (£36) with four choices at each stage. Skilful cooking and simple presentation do full justice to top quality ingredients. Classics include fish soup, snails with parsley and garlic butter, moules marinieres and coq au vin, whilst Merrifield duck pie and goat’s cheese soufflé are amongst the more innovative creations

The following comments refer to dishes sampled on two lunch time visits.

Fish soup had good colour and a pleasing depth of flavour. Served with croutons and rouille, which added substance and garlicy richness, this brasserie stalwart was suitably hearty and warming.

Less robust but equally satisfying was a daily special of clam chowder. This smooth and creamy soup showcased the delicate sweetness of its seafood ingredient.

For those who find goat’s cheese too cloying, a starter of warm goat’s cheese soufflé should win them over. Light, fluffy and full of flavour, it was twice baked and mounted on a tomato coulis enriched with a little cream. Reminiscent of the Roux’s soufflé suissesse, but less rich, the combination of tastes and textures was most satisfying.

Less successful was a starter of 12 Burgundy snails which needed more garlic and parsley butter for dunking – an essential ritual of this popular dish.

A special of the day main course saw two Monkfish fillets accurately timed to retain their mild lobster-like flavour and firm texture. A rich, earthy sauce, based on lentils and chestnuts worked well with the fish.

Coq au vin featured two flavoursome thighs – surely the sweetest part of the bird – properly garnished with lardons, mushrooms and baby onions. Silky, fresh tagliatelle pasta helped to mop up the intensely reduced red wine sauce.

Another successful main was Merrifield duck pie, with a golden dome of crisp puff pastry – similar to a pithivier without the spiral markings – and a well-seasoned duck farce filling. Suitably partnered with sauce Rouennaise, a red wine Bordelaise sauce enhanced with duck livers, this rich combination was balanced by the freshness of sautéed sweetheart cabbage.

For dessert, warm chocolate fondant proved a winner. Precisely timed to produce a decadent, oozing centre, it sat on a pool of coffee sauce, both elements happily being not too sweet.

Rum baba with yuzu cream had a light texture but would have been improved with a touch more rum in its sugar syrup.

The wine list sees prices rise quite steeply, although there is a good selection by the glass.

A meal at Roux at Skindles impresses in its range of technically accomplished dishes, and its knowledgeable, attentive yet unobtrusive service. Attractive pricing and the vibrant buzz of contented diners in a full restaurant, as was the case in both of my visits, will also encourage repeat custom. Overall, this new and much awaited addition to a previously arid dining scene, cannot fail to be successful. Fine Dining Guide will certainly return and monitor its progress with interest.

I had to cancel my first reservation at Le Roi Fou (The Crazy King), at short notice. A few months later, during the Edinburgh Festival, I was perusing the menu outside hoping there was a spare table for walk-ins when a familiar voice greeted me by name. It was Jon Hemy, ex manager at The Pompadour, who, unknown to me, had moved to this smaller operation. Not only was there a free table, but he also remembered my previous cancellation. Now that’s what I call personal service!

Few new restaurants in Edinburgh have made such an immediate impact as Le Roi Fou. Within a year of opening it gained the 2017 Best New Restaurant at the Scottish Food Awards. 2018 saw three more accolades: Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year (Edinburgh News), Classic Cuisine Chef of the Year, (again from the Scottish Food Awards), and Winner of the Eating and Dining Awards (List Magazine). An encouraging mark in the 2019 Good Food Guide has consolidated these achievements

Located at Number 1 Forth Street in the Newtown district of Broughton – a stone’s throw from the York Place tram terminal – on the site of a former hamburger restaurant, Le Roi Fou is the joint venture of chef Jerome Henry and Isolde Nash, his creative director. Their aim is to promote a “joint appreciation of art, culture and food…in a bijou restaurant for bon vivants”

The brighter part of this“Restaurant des Artistes,” with window tables either side of the entrance, leads to a high tiled wooden bar and the more intimate “salon” at the back with its grey green walls dressed with fine art, and subdued lighting. Throughout, banquette seating, walnut chairs, fine napery and gold velvet curtains give a stylish, luxurious feel in an atmosphere which is relaxed and informal.

Heading a small team in the kitchen is French-Swiss born Jerome Henry. His is a bold move away from his twelve years’ experience in London: five years as head chef at Les Trois Garcons, a celebrity haunt in trendy Shoreditch, then seven years at Anton Mosimann’s Private Dining Club in pricey Belgravia. With such a distinguished CV, expectations would inevitably be high, and in this respect he does not disappoint.

A seasonally changing a la carte menu currently offers a wide choice of twelve starters (£7.50 to £17.50), ten mains (£15 to £31), and desserts and cheese, (£5 to £9.50). While vegetarians and pescetarians are well catered for, it is also pleasing to see such iconic dishes as oysters Rockefeller, seared foie gras and steak tartare. For a true gastronomic experience, there is a five course tasting menu (£50) with an optional cheese course (£9), and flight of wines for £40.

Prices are eminently fair, especially for lunch and pre theatre sittings – three courses for £24.50 – considering the quality of ingredients, the skill in cooking, and the generosity of spirit. Portions are generous even in the tasting menu with courses of a la carte proportions.

John Henry’s accomplished cooking is deeply rooted in the classics, free from faddish techniques and presentation – no smears, foams or spherification! Top quality raw materials are treated with respect, combinations showing a well-considered balance of tastes, textures and temperatures. Timing in meat, game and fish cookery is precise, allowing the natural flavours to shine. Saucing is a particular strength, elevating dishes such as lamb’s kidneys and sweetbreads with a grain mustard sauce. Occasional contemporary influences can be seen, say in a chimichurri sauce with calf’s liver or white miso and aubergine sauce dressing a scallop dish. Presentation is clean without being showy.

The select and mainly French wine list, overseen by sommelier Sam Webber, avoids greedy mark ups, with pleasing options by the glass. The flight of wines to accompany the tasting menu has inspired choices which complement the dishes perfectly.

My August tasting menu began with a amuse bouche of pleasingly light and crisp comte gougeres with a savoury dip.

A second amuse featured two oysters Rockefeller, the aroma from the toasted shells complementing the flavour of the warm spinach and herb crumbed topping enveloping the plump bivalves. The buttery, briny juices of this decadent dish were greedily mopped up with the excellent focaccia bread.

A giant hand dived scallop was grilled to produce a gently charred crust which contrasted with the delicate sweetness of the opaque flesh. Partnered with braised octopus, with its soft, texture and clean taste, the dish was bought together by a velvety sauce of confit Isle of Wight tomatoes at room temperature to maximise its flavour. This was a real triumph of seafood cookery in its combinations, timing, textures and temperatures.  Wine: 2016 Loureiro, Dócil, Projectode Dirk Nieport, Lima Valley, Vinhos Verde, Portugal

Then followed three “tasting” dishes which, given their generous size, would easily pass for main courses elsewhere.

Equally accomplished as the previous course was a generous tranche of halibut, streamed to retain the moistness of its thick white flesh. Cucumber and radishes added freshness and texture whilst a salsa verde featuring pistachios and rocket gave a deep herbaceous lift.   Wine: 2016 Pouilly Fumé, David & Hervé Millet, Domaine De La Loge, Loire, France

Cooking rabbit has been the downfall of many a good chef, but here it was handled with consummate skill. Braised and wrapped in pancetta, the meat was succulent in texture and mildly gamey in flavour. Sweetcorn in puree and kernel forms added different textures and sweetness, to contrast with the tangy bitterness of wilted cavolo nero. A light, flavoursome jus bought the dish together. Wine: 2015 Syrah, Alain Graillot & Ouled Thaleb, Tandem, Morocco

The final savoury course showcased a finely judged breast of new season grouse. Being only a fortnight into the season, the gaminess was – thankfully – muted whilst the texture had the melting softness of butter. Girolles and pearl barley added earthy elements to a dish finished with a sublime bread sauce and a rich jus with great depth of flavour.  Wine: 2004 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

With such robust savoury dishes, a light, delicate dessert which encapsulated the tastes of summer was offered as the final course. This took the form of beautifully sweet Blacketyside Farm strawberries with fragrant elderflower curd, a silky smooth strawberry ice cream and shards of crisp meringue.  Wine: 2016 Bugey, Cerdon, Renardat Fache, Method Ancestrale, France

Without doubt, this was one of the most impressive tasting menus I have eaten, and such a refreshing change from the dainty, insubstantial sous-vide courses, with their smears, blobs and foams encountered elsewhere. Flavour was paramount, with refined classical techniques doing full justice to the well sourced ingredients.

The whole experience was enhanced by the welcoming, knowledgeable and unobtrusive service overseen by John Hemy. Given the scale of the operation, the adage that “small is beautiful” definitely applies to dining at Le Roi Fou.

Fine Dining Guide will certainly return sample more of Jerome Henry’s exquisite cooking. No doubt 2019 will bring further accolades in the guides, especially from Michelin and the AA, which have yet to grant Le Roi Fou the recognition it deserves.

Two empires meet at the stately Balmoral Hotel in the first co venture of the Roux and Forte dynasties. Alain Roux and his father Michel Roux O.B.E. of the three Michelin starred Waterside Inn, Bray, have joined forces with the Forte family, in particular Lydia Forte Rocco Forte Hotels’ Bar & Restaurant Development Manager and Olga Polizzi, Rocco Forte Hotel’ Director of Building and Design and sister of Sir Rocco Forte, to establish Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux. Its opening in June marked a watershed in the culinary progress of Edinburgh, being the first serious attempt to recreate an all-day dining venue inspired by Parisian models such as La Coupole and Le Train Bleu.

Whilst not as ornate as either of these French counterparts, Brasserie Prince with its marbled bar, large windows, brass fittings, banquette seating, antique mirrors and chandelier lighting bears all the hallmarks of classic brasserie fixtures and fittings. However, renowned restaurant designer Martin Brudnizki and Olga Polizzi, have integrated regional materials and colours into the design. Wood panelled walls, leather dining chairs and woollen cushion covers are used judiciously, whilst the blues and greens of the banquettes and armchairs in the library mirror the predominant colours of the Scottish landscape.

The green and white stripes of the outside awnings are repeated at intervals on the dining room ceiling, to break up its long length. Overall, a brighter, fresher feel is evident throughout.

The Auld Allaince meets in the food offering which features French bistro classics in a seasonally changing menu, employing the exceptional produce of Scotland and France. . Anticipating possibly a large French clientele, the menu is printed in English with French on the back. As Signature Chef, Alain Roux has created an extensive range of dishes, from seafood platters from the raw bar, sharing plates and light bites such as Croque Monsieur or hard boiled eggs mimosa with anchovy from the long bar, to three course meals in the main restaurant. Of particular interest are the “Grand-Mere Specials” of the Roux family, (all at £17.50) which vary throughout the week, from Tripes de Saint-Mande on Monday to Beouf Bourguignon on Sunday. Starters which include Grandpa Benoit Roux’s country pate with sourdough cost between £8.50 and £18.50. Main courses from the carte (£16.60 to £21.50) include bistro standards – albeit elevated to a higher level – such coq au vin with tagliatelle, steak tartare and Bouillabaisse. Desserts and cheese (£6 to £19) showcase favourites such as dark chocolate mousse and truffled Brie de Meraux

Prices can be challenging, but are also realistic given the quality of the produce, the skill in cooking, the comfort of the venue and central location in an iconic hotel, There are also bargains to be had at this level: a three course lunch special including the Grand Mere dish of the day, a starter and dessert from the carte and a glass of wine costs £32. Some dishes accommodate more modest budgets such as a hearty and filling Normandy soup at £9 – a popular choice on the day I visited – or Parisian gnocchi gratin at £9.50. It must also be remembered there is no requirement to order multiple courses; indeed a light lunch might consist of just one starter or small dish from the menu. Some might baulk at the £3 charge for bread, but given its quality and quantity – greater than other establishments adopting the same practice at the similar or even higher prices – this is unjustified.

Maxime Walkowiak (above, left) from the Waterside Inn was seconded to oversee the transition from Hadrian’s to the Prince Brasserie Taking over as Director of the Dining Room is Hubert Laforge whose extensive experience of the exclusive world of five star hotels will enable him to reconcile the standards of luxurious accommodation with the more relaxed and informal ambience of the brasserie. Managing varying expectations will be a challenge.

The welcoming, knowledgeable and unobtrusive service by (above, centre) liveried front of house staff encourage an informal, relaxed ambience. A large brigade in the kitchen, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner is headed by Phillip Hickman from the Waterside Inn is able to cope with a maximum of over 200 covers. The acid test is always on a busy service where standards of cooking and service have to be maintained.

On a weekday visit during the Edinburgh Festival in August, I opted for half a dozen oysters from the carte (£12.50) followed by the lunch special.

A basket of sourdough and baguette, exemplary in their crisp crusts and firm crumb, arrived with unsalted butter and good olive oil. In addition there was a surprise amuse bouche of blinis with a guacamole dip.

Properly presented on a bed of ice with of lemon, red wine vinegar, shallot and pickled cucumber, the oysters with their creamy texture and briny aroma oozed the taste of the sea. A ritualistic dish, anointing the bivalves with the garnishes was a true gastronomic indulgence.

My choice of starter, given its rarity even on brasserie menus in France, was a foregone conclusion. Sauteed frogs’ legs Provencal exuded the heady garlic and parsley aroma of its persillade, of which there could have been a little more. A squeeze of lemon lifted these delicious morsels of finger food with sour dough used served to mop up the garlicy, buttery juices.

The Grand Mere Special of the day was lamb cutlets Germaine, with couscous, sorrel and mint sauce. Three generous partly French trimmed cutlets – a thin layer of fat was retained for flavour – were well seasoned if a slightly over done. Sorrel and mint added piquancy to the intense veal based sauce which the couscous helped to soak up. Accompanied by a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon included in the lunch promotion, this was an highly enjoyable dish.

For dessert, a little theatre was employed in the serving of a signature mille feuille from the trolley. Slicing the delicate buttery leaves of puff pastry sandwiching a well flavoured vanilla crème patissiere required a swift, deft approach, which was perfectly achieved.

Double expresso completed a memorable meal, one enhanced by the seamless service and congenial atmosphere. Visiting Brasserie Prince was a joy, as it is with all Roux restaurants. Fine Dining Guide will doubtless visit again on a future visit to the Scottish capital to sample different dishes from the embarrassment of riches on offer. We wish this new venture every success and will follow its progress with interest.

Black Pig and Oyster is an exciting new addition to the Edinburgh dining scene. Specialising in Spanish cuisine, in particular dishes featuring the celebrated Iberian Black Pig, its tapas, street food and small sharing dishes alongside an a la carte menu make it ideal for both casual and special occasion dining.

Located on the Commercial Quay in Leith, and housed in what was originally a whiskey warehouse, it finally reopened in May this year after being flooded from the dentist above. The contemporary glass and steel frontage belies the warm, inviting décor of the interior. The original arched ceiling of red brick has been retained, giving it a cavernous feel, emphasised by stone pillars and up lighting. Parquet flooring, large, well-spaced tables and leather-backed chairs give a cool, sophisticated look to the dining room which can take up to 80 covers. At one end of the long room, adjacent to the wine cellar and with a clear view of the kitchen passe, is the chef’s table for to ten diners.

Clearly, considerable investment has gone into this venture which is very much a family run operation. Owners Bryan the chef and wife Michelle leading front of house, are assisted by son Jack on the pastry section and waitress daughter Yasmine. Overall, there are four in the kitchen and four front of house.

The ambitious menu is extensive, with a variety of tapas, street food and sharing options, popular at lunch time. Although the main carte contains vegetarian dishes, it emphasises the carnivorous and pescatarian elements. Five Iberian Black choices (£25-£28) include smoked and schnitzel versions. Five Butcher’s Finest dishes, (£18-£25), include wild mushroom and garlic chicken and crispy lamb with Picos blue. Shell and Fish ((£18-£25) include halibut and prawns and Iberian fish supper. Four desserts, (£6.95-£7.25) range from tempered chocolate brownie to Mojito panna cotta. An artisan cheese board is also offered at £8.95. Prices are fair given the quality and quantity of the raw materials, the skill in cooking and the comfort of the venue.

An agreeable wine list is prefaced by an interesting range of cocktails such as Madeiran Punch (Couvosier, lime and orange juice at £7.25) and De-Licious (Baileys, Frangelico, Crème de Menthe and fresh cream at £7.50)

A visit on a weekday evening during the Edinburgh Festival enabled me to same dishes from the carte. The ambience was relaxed and informal,

Loch Fyne oysters came in three preparations – natural with pickled shallot and sherry dressing, deep fried in a crisp and transparently thin tempura batter, and grilled with mahon cheese to reflect the Spanish theme of the restaurant. These gave satisfying contrasts of taste, texture and temperatures, a promising start to the meal.

Next came a regional classic, Scotch pie, but not the flat, soggy unappetising specimens often encountered elsewhere. Here, the burnished water crust pastry was deliciously thin and crisp, encasing a well-seasoned mutton filling. Standing proud, it was topped with a flavoursome haggis bon-bon and paired with a smoked tomato chutney, which helped to cut the richness of the pie.

The main course was “Black Pig Surf and Turf” which showcased some of the best ingredients the restaurant has to offer. Two thick slices of Presa, the leanest cut of the acorn fed Iberian Blackpig from the lower back of the animal, had a steak like texture and rich, porcine taste, although any charred element was lacking. Equally enticing were the three giant grilled prawns, dressed with garlic butter which were accurately timed to enhance their succulent sweet flesh. The best part, however, was sucking the heads, where most of the flavour is! This combination would have been improved if the pork and prawns had been gently charred which would have boosted their flavour. Strangely, the lemon garnish was charred. Aioli and sauted potatoes completed this generous dish.

“The not so messy Eton mess” was the creation of son Jack, who has trained under a winning patissier of Crème de la Crème. A suitably light dessert to end a heavy meal, it featured toasted and dehydrated shards of meringue, cream, cubes of Chambord jelly, and fresh raspberries and strawberries with their coulis attractively arranged around the edge of a dark plate.

Overall, dinner at the Black Pig and Oyster was a most pleasant experience, enhanced by the unobtrusive and knowledgeable service overseen by manager Marian. It deserves to be successful, not just because the misfortunes forcing it to close temporarily, but, more importantly, because of the accomplished cooking based on first rate Scottish and Spanish produce. Fine Dining Guide will return to sample some of the smaller dishes and will follow its progress with interest.

The opening in June 2018 of Mono marked a watershed in Edinburgh’s gastronomic fortunes.  Whereas most fine dining restaurants are to be found in New Town and Leith, Mono’s location at 85 South Bridge, in the heart of the Old Town’s student quarter, represents a deliberate attempt to elevate the level of dining in an area replete with fast food and takeaway outlets.

Mono is also ground breaking in using progressive northern Italian cuisine to “highlight the relationship between raw nature, the ingredients used and the cultural history.” This joint vision of chef Maciek Zielinski, who has worked in one and two starred Michelin restaurants in Rome and Milan respectively, and Joseph Crolla of Crolla’s Italian Kitchen in Musselburgh, is supported by a research lab / development kitchen in which dishes are invented, tested and refined, employing both classical and contemporary techniques.

Serious investment is also seen in the restaurant design and materials used. A Nordic/ Eastern European theme where wood predominates has been chosen, although here it is brighter and lighter than other restaurants of similar design. Untreated walls, partly lined with cork, parquet flooring and comfortable upholstered smooth wooden chairs exemplify the “textural” element of the promised “multi-sensory” experience, whilst an open kitchen and beautifully presented dishes qualify for the “visual” descriptor. A wood burning stove, pendant and spotlighting together with piped music are encompassed in “sound and all kinds of stimuli” The overall effect is pleasing in its natural simplicity.

The ground floor dining room and long bar is mainly used for lunches and pre dinner drinks, whilst the heart of Mono lies downstairs, where guests can enjoy dinner with a view of the open kitchen.

Chef Zielinski’s (far left, above) cooking is unashamedly complex and labour intensive. Modern Italian approaches fused with Scottish and Asian produce and influences reflect a degree of invention and creativity that is measured and assured: unusual combinations work, with each component harmoniously adding to the finished whole. Dishes are multi component with layers of bold flavours. A balance of tastes, textures and temperatures is evident throughout. Presentation is stylish without being over contrived. Uncompromising in their seasonality and locality, the finest Italian and Scottish ingredients are sourced, menus being changed every six to eight weeks. With a maximum of 70 covers, including the private dining room, a brigade of six in the kitchen and 4-5 front of house are kept busy.

The dinner menu has six starters from £10 to £12; six mains from £19 to £27; and six desserts all at £10. A six course tasting menu at £75, with an optional wine flight at £60, features dishes from the carte in smaller portions and is the best way to sample the range and versatility of the kitchen. Menu descriptions are terse and understated, giving an element of surprise to the diner. Prices are high but realistic given the skill in cooking and the exceptional quality of the ingredients.

Mono is open seven days a week – highly usual for restaurants of this quality – which facilitated a visit on a Monday evening to sample the tasting menu.

The assortment of breads, Focaccia with rosemary, rye, crispbread and grissini stick, were exemplary in their crusts and crumb, the focaccia being especially moist and fragrant. Dipped in the extra virgin olive oil, they were a delight.

The meal began with four stuzzichini or amuse bouches: a succulent cube of crispy lamb belly dressed with a punchy bagna cauda of anchovies, garlic and olive oil; earthy, rich butternut squash puree with crispy rice; a delicate jellied rabbit consommé with parsley; and a caprese bomb of mozzarella, basil, and tomato which captured the essential flavours of Italy in one melting mouthful. These dainty morsels, inventive and with great attention to detail and bold flavours, augured well for the courses to come.

Next came a unique take on an Italian classic: octopus alla piastra. The slow cooked tentacle, tender in texture and clean in flavour, came with an ethereally light potato and paprika foam, a salad of dehydrated oyster mushrooms and a deeply flavoured dashi mushroom sauce which bought the dish together. This was a tour de force of fusion cooking, embracing Italian and Japanese elements in an umami taste sensation.

A dish of accurately timed rabbit loin came with its more flavoursome belly and kidney. Strips of lardo added richness and mustard seeds gave an aromatic touch which did not overwhelm the delicate flavour of the rabbit. The vegetable accompaniment came in a variety of forms – baby carrot, carrot sponge, carrot purée and powdered carrot – each demonstrating a different cooking technique. Nasturtium flowers added a peppery note, whilst a light jus rounded off the dish.

Although not as visually appealing as the other dishes – it being essentially monochrome in appearance – the next course was equally accomplished. The silky pasta of beetroot tortellini encased Katy Rodger’s rich and crumbly crowdie cheese. With discs of fermented and dehydrated beetroot, and a fermented beetroot soup, this comprised a successful marriage of flavours and textures demonstrating considerable technical skill. Here, the union of an Italian staple with Scotland’s ancient cheese was a truly inspired creation.

Fillets of crisp skinned, firm fleshed red mullet were accompanied by seared spring onion, crispy courgette flower and a head of zucchini encased in a cube of fried bread. The most innovative element in this Italian – Indian fusion was the mild curry butter sauce which complemented the delicate flavour of the fish.

Scottish and Italian influences were clearly evident in the meat course. A noisette of Borders lamb saddle was cooked and rested to a perfect pink, maximising its rich flavour and firm texture. Seared sweetbreads had a delicate creaminess, adding contrast and a luxurious touch. Puffy pillows of gnocchi Romana, smooth pea puree and slightly bitter chard proved suitable accompaniments, whilst powdered capers and a chilli, lamb and lovage sauce lifted the whole dish.

The cheese course proved a finely judged combination of Parmesan cream, tarragon sorbet, roasted apple purée, and chicory marinated in star anis, all topped with a Parmesan buckwheat shortbread. The dairy, herb and spice elements worked well together, enhancing the soft and crisp textures and salty and sweet components. This was another highly creative dish.

The following coconut and curry sorbet served its purpose in refreshing the palate for the final two courses

A rich and creamy saffron risotto was balanced with Scottish berries, lemon balm sorbet and meadowsweet for sweetness and herbal fragrance. Puffed rice gave contrasting texture and, as a playful flourish, a block of white chocolate and pepper, masquerading as Parmesan, was shaved for at the table.

The second dessert, billed as “Cherry and chocolate” was Mono’s novel interpretation of Tiramisu. Mascarpone cream, flavoured with cherry Grand Marnier, was paired with a sorbet of tonka bean and cherry to imitate the feel of a cherry stone in the mouth. Aerated chocolate and coffee and cacao nibs crumb dressed with cherry and balsamic vinegar finished this sophisticated dessert of contrasting tastes and textures.

A cherry habits and coffee cocktail, specially invented by bartender Mattia and sommelier Roberto to accompany this dessert, proved a delicious, perfect match.

Overall, this was a most memorable meal, full of excitement and surprises, reflecting the creativity and dedication of the kitchen. The whole experience was enhanced by the welcoming relaxed formality of the seamless service, overseen by assistant manager Lukasz.  At my table Roberto was able to describe each course in detail and with enthusiasm – something rare in even top flight restaurants – while Alessio served matching wines with a maturity and passion of someone truly engaged with his craft.

Although having only been open for three months, Mono is rapidly establishing its credentials as a destination restaurant. Certainly, it deserves to be successful in the highly competitive world of Edinburgh high end restaurants and there is a market for adventurous cuisine of this type. Fine Dining Guide hopes to visit again and will follow its progress with interest.

Anthony Demetre’s Wild Honey, in the heart of Mayfair, celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2017. This is no mean feat in the highly competitive world of fine dining, where casualties greatly outnumber successes. Yet Anthony Demetre is a true veteran – in the best sense of the word – of the London gastronomic scene. It is a rare pleasure to chat with a chef whose experience with two of the greats of the last three decades – Gary Rhodes (at The Castle, Taunton), and Bruno Loubet (at The Four Seasons and Bistrot Bruno) – existed alongside a glittering world that also featured Nico Ladenis, Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay, to name but three.

Along with many fans of “bistronomy” (although not familiar with the term at the time), I was a regular visitor to Bistrot Bruno in Frith Street and later at L’Odeon overlooking Regent Street, where skilful, inventive cooking and relaxed, efficient service could be had in simple yet comfortable surroundings at attractive prices. These two restaurants, where Anthony honed his skills, were always packed, so booking was essential.

Awarded Michelin stars at Putney Bridge (where he was chef/director) and his first two restaurants – in partnership with Will Smith – Arbutus and Wild Honey, all in their first year of opening, Anthony’s culinary reputation was assured.

His cooking style is rooted in the classics, eschewing the latest fashions and fads. Use of the hob, grill and oven, without the use of sous vide, are the preferred methods. This needs precise timing in cooking and resting, essentials lost in less worthy kitchens. Flavours are bold and combinations are harmonious, showing balance in tastes and textures. Plates rarely exceed four ingredients, allowing each one to shine. Vegetables serve not as a mere garnish but an essential components in the success of each dish. Presentation is clean and attractive without being contrived. Although perhaps a little less adventurous and experimental and using more luxurious ingredients than Arbutus, where the mackerel and squid burger was a signature dish, the menu at Wild Honey still delivers in terms of finely executed contemporary cooking.

The winter a la carte menu features a winning formula of seven starters from £8 to £16; seven mains, £17 to £29, with rib of beef at £49.50 for two; cheese at £14; and five desserts at £9, with tarte tatin serving two, three or four at £20. Given the superb quality of the seasonal ingredients and the sharply honed skill in cooking at this level, not to mention the Mayfair location, these prices are eminently fair, offering perhaps the best value in this part of the West End. This applies even more to the £35 three course set lunch and early supper (6.pm to 7.pm) menu, which includes some dishes from the carte.

Revisiting Wild Honey after a few years’ absence, I found the renovations – completed in 2012 – had improved the restaurant considerably. Brighter chandelier lighting, the removal of booths, and the relocation of the mirrored bar to the centre of the restaurant gives a more spacious feel to the long, narrow oak panelled room. More comfortable too are the rounded sofa tables replacing the banquette seating. Colourful photographic artwork, curated by Maxine Davidson remains as before, adding a contemporary note to the club-like atmosphere.

Not that service is haughty or over formal. Overseen by David Durack, the relaxed formality is in keeping with modern trends, putting guests at their ease. It is attentive and knowledgeable without being intrusive.

A mid-week dinner for three in February began with an Apple Negroni, a variation on a classic cocktail, the red apple, Campari and vermouth complementing the botanicals of the in house distilled gin. This is a new, exciting addition to Anthony’s repertoire.

In addition to the extensive, 100 bin wine list, which includes organic and biodynamic selections, it was pleasing to see on the daily menu two wines by “Coravin.” This is, after all, Mayfair, where budgets can stretch!

A starter of Cornish mussels saw the creaminess of the flesh balanced by the inspired additon fo blood orange, the sweet acidity working well with the plump bivalve. Sea purslane acted as a seasoning, giving a measured degree of saltiness.

Grilled quail – not the most flavoursome of game birds – was lifted by lacquered coating of honey and sweet spices – amchor, sechuan pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and cumin. Kumquat puree gave a counterpoint with its sweet bitterness whilst winter vegetables provided the necessary textural contrast.

Grilled Galician octopus was precisely timed, the gentle smokiness not overpowering its mild flavour and tender texture. Paired with a finely judged creamy squid ink polenta, adding flavour as well as colour, the dish was dressed with a salsa verde, the grassy piquancy of which enlivened the dish. If only there was more of this!

The fourth starter, a smooth Guinea fowl and foie gras boudin blanc – a rich but light pairing – was poached and browned in the pan to perfection. Celeriac tagliatelle with its subtle celery like flavour and nutty overtones added texture whilst pickled quince gave a tartness that worked well with the other components.

A main course of Lancashire (Goosnargh) duck was accurately timed and well rested, doing full justice to the deep flavour and dense texture of the thick breast. An accompanying pastilla of the leg meat resting on a bowl of herbed grains,was lightly spiced and well-seasoned. Silky caramelised cauliflower puree – possibly the best way to treat this most uninteresting of vegetables – young parsnips, and red cabbage all complemented the duck well.

A second main featured rabbit, that notoriously difficult protein to cook. The saddle and farce, wrapped in pancetta, seared in the pan and finished in the oven, retained its moisture and delicate flavour. Equally impressive was an accompanying cottage pie featuring the slow cooked shoulder meat topped with a potato puree of exquisite smoothness and creaminess. Caramelised endive and chestnut mushrooms completed this tour de force of game cookery.

The same skill was shown in the third main course of roast loin of Dartmoor venison. Cooked to a medium rare to showcase its mild gaminess, it was paired with sweet potato, beetroot and onion, all of which emphasised the essential earthy flavours of the dish.

For dessert, we all opted for the irresistible tarte tatin. The not too sweet dark amber caramel enrobed generous wedges of soft apple and fine pastry in this classic, well executed dessert.

Good coffee and signature cannele completed a memorable meal, one enhanced by the seamless service and the lively buzz of contented diners in a busy restaurant.

Wild Honey is a class act, but nothing less would be expected of a chef whose wide experience and refined skills transcend the more ephemeral developments of the restaurant scene. No doubt Fine Dining Guide will return to sample the remaining abindance of riches on the menu.

Atul Kochhar, the twice Michelin starred chef, continues to impress the restaurant world with his latest opening, Hawkyns. Named after Sir William Hawkyns of the East India Company who pioneered the import of Indian food into England, it is housed in the Crown Hotel, originally a 16^th century coaching inn used in location for Four Weddings and a Funeral, in Amersham, Buckinghamshire.

Such a quintessentially English market town, set at the eastern end of the Cotswolds, is far removed from the West End glamour of Mayfair where Atul Kochhar made his name at Tamarind and Benares, let alone his restaurants in Madrid, Mumbai and Dubai. But Amersham is in Betjeman’s Metroland, a prosperous London suburb noted for its attractive mix of well-established restaurants and pubs, in many ways is similar to Marlow, where his much lauded Indian restaurant Sindhu is located in the Compleat Angler hotel.

Inside, a long, low ceilinged oak beamed room with cream walls, dark wooden floors and open fires is lit by large sash windows which look onto the Market Square. The décor and furnishings have an understated contemporary look which retain a country pub feel, with well-spaced chunky wooden tables, black and white wooden cushioned chairs and floor lamps with designer shading. The overall ambience is warm and cosy.

Atul Kochhar and Arbinder Dugal, a former finalist in the Roux Scholarship, and head chef since September 2017, have teamed up to create an exciting seasonal menu that is proving popular with the well-heeled clientele. Each dish combines modern British with Indian elements in a creative yet retrained way. Combinations are harmonious, with a balance of tastes, textures and temperatures. Spicing is judicious, often used to add a lively flavour rather than heat. It is never overwhelming, so enhancing the main element of the dish. Presentation on bespoke designer clay plates is refined and uncluttered. This is creative but not outlandish cooking which fuses the best of both cuisines.

Prices are realistic given the quality of ingredients and skill in cooking. On the carte, six starters range from £8 to £12, seven mains from £14 to £24, and four desserts from £7 to £9, with a cheese option at £12. A six course tasting menu is competitively priced at £45 with an optional wine flight for additional £45. Those coming for lunch benefit from a good value set menu, two courses for £19, three for £23.50

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy weekday evening in November, choosing dishes from the carte and being won over by the food and service.

A starter of well-seasoned and softly textured chicken terrine flecked with coriander and lifted by Ras el Hanout was balanced in texture by crispy chicken skin and in flavour by the gentle acidity of pickled radish and shallot. A mild creamy curried mayonnaise and a flourish of spring onion lightly dusted with more of the Moroccan spice completed this accomplished dish.

Equally impressive was a seared fillet of beautifully fresh mackerel anointed with a Madras masala which complemented a fish which could take the moderate spicing. These soft textures and aromatic flavours were juxtaposed against a remoulade of mouli and fennel which gave a pleasing aniseed crunch and compressed apple which added a lively freshness.

A main course featured pork cooked two ways. A braised cheek, succulent and tender, was enveloped in a rich vindaloo sauce that was mercifully moderate in its heat. It was paired with a portion of roasted belly, which, although flavoursome, would have benefitted from a little more cooking time to capture totally its melting porcine deliciousness. Nevertheless, other components of the dish – spiced savoy cabbage cooked with grated coconut and chorizo and buttery potato fondant – were exemplary in taste and texture.

It was pleasing to see lamb shoulder, the most flavoursome of cuts, on the menu. Charred to give a heady smokiness, the generous portion was perfectly timed to maximise the moist sweetness and yielding texture of the meat. Autumn vegetables including turnips, carrots and cauliflower along with pearl barley gave a deep earthiness and contrasting texture. These elements were bought together by a rich, aromatic broth which, when poured at the table, added an element of theatre to the dish.

Desserts did not disappoint either, showing the strength of the pastry section of the kitchen

A mille feuille featured delicate crisp layers of buttery puff pastry sandwiched and topped with a fragrant saffron yogurt and dressed with blueberries and blackberries. Accompanied by a tonka bean ice cream of velvety smoothness and a taste best described as “vanilla caramel with honey,” this dish was well executed and visually stunning.

A more exotic offering saw a light, not over rich coconut mousse dressed with a pineapple and chilli salsa which worked well by cutting its creaminess and adding a gentle hint of spice. To balance this, a refreshing lime and mint sorbet gave a necessary fragrant citric lift

Good expresso completed this memorable meal, enhanced by paired wines chosen by the charming and engaging Operations Manager Richard Martinez. Service under his direction was courteous, informative and helpful, without being intrusive.

Clearly, Hawkyns is a welcome addition to the dining scene in Amersham, and, given its unique offering, will hold its own in a highly competitive market. Being on the Metropolitan line and Chilterns Railway, it is also accessible to those from further afield as well as locals.

Fine Dining Guide will follow the fortunes of Hawkyns with interest and hopes to return, perhaps to sample the tasting menu or to book a table for a special Chef Season dinner:  Paul Ainsworth and Nigel Howarth are all guesting in the first three months of 2018!

The Pompadour by Galvin is the fine dining restaurant of the prestigious Caledonian Hotel in Edinburgh, part of the Waldorf Astoria group. On my first visit two years ago I was surprised to find that this elegantly proportioned room – rather like a Parisian salon – bore few other traces of the French rococo style prevalent in the mid-18^th Century, when the eponymous mistress of Louis XV held sway at Court. Given its name, I was expecting it to resemble The Ritz or Le Meurice, with their highly ornamental yet graceful décor, furniture and fittings, enhanced by artwork with oriental and mythical themes.

Nevertheless, the restrained Belle Epoque design has a more soothing if less glamourous effect. The soft grey walls are punctuated by exquisite hand painted Chinese floral panels in egg shell colours. Above, intricate cornicing, a delicate ceiling rose and a central pink chandelier add interest. Well-spaced tables, some by the large semi-circular windows enjoying views of Edinburgh Castle, are doubly dressed in fine napery and matched with comfortable upholstered chairs.

After extensive refurbishment of the Caley, as the Caledonian is affectionately known, brothers Chris (right, below) and Jeff Galvin (left, below) added The Pompadour by Galvin (and Galvin Brasserie de Luxe in Edinburgh) to their rapidly expanding gastronomic empire in the autumn of 2012.

Since March 2017, Daniel Ashmore (below) has been head chef. His distinguished CV at Michelin starred kitchens includes three years at Fischers at Baslow Hall, two years at The Square in Mayfair, a year at Restaurant Tom Aitkens and La Trompette, and three years at the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh, where he rose to sous chef at restaurant Number One.

With a cuisine strongly rooted in the French classics, giving “quality and luxury in simplicity,” diners are treated to dishes bearing the refined elegance of the Galvin stamp. Menus change seasonally, featuring the best of British ingredients, although there are signature dishes such as crab lasagne, halibut with langoustine bisque, mussels, cockles & squid ink farfalle, and apple tarte tatin which it would be difficult to take off the menu. Ingredients harmonise well in taste, texture, temperature and colour, with accuracy in the timing of meat and fish. Presentation shows a conscious artistry with a willingness not to overcrowd the plate. My one minor criticism of the tasting menu is that full sized portions from the a la carte menu – say of cured foie gras or beef fillet – were obviously halved, being less aesthetically pleasing than a smaller portion prepared for one.

This does not apply to the Lasagne of Crab of which the chef kindly substituted a full sized portion for the advertised first course on the tasting menu. Intensely rich but light, it features silky, soft layers of pasta sandwiching a well-seasoned delicate mousse of scallops and the white meat of North Berwick crab. Dressed with a velvety beurre Nantaise, flecked with chives to add a gentle oniony lift, the unashamed creamy indulgence of this signature dish is a tour de force of creativity and imagination. A Galvin classic dish, this is not to be missed on any visit. Wine: Pinot Gris, Greywacke, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2014

Next came a duo of plump Wye Valley green asparagus spears, grilled to enhance their robust flavour and to produce an al dente texture. Accompanied by a creamy burrata Mozzarella enlivened by a topping of Kalamata olives and olive oil, this dish encapsulated the vibrant flavours and colours of early summer. Wine:The flower & the bee, Cotto de Gomariz, Ribeiro, Spain, 2015

A well seasoned slice of cured foie gras melted on the tongue like the richest butter. The bitterness of endive and the acidity of orange compote worked well in balancing the richness of this delectable piece of offal, both in texture and flavour. Classically served with toasted brioche, here was another accomplished dish that offered “quality and luxury in simplicity.” Wine: Riesling, Smaragh, Burgstall, Weingut Pichler, Austria, 2015

The fish course featured a precisely timed fillet of Loch Etive sea trout, with soft moist flesh and crisply seared skin. Light pillows of herb gnocchi, sea beet and mussels added interest, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a light,flavoursome broth. Wine: Weiber Burgunder, Trocken, Weingut, Huber, Germany, 2011

For the meat course, a fillet of Cumbrian beef precisely cooked to a medium rare, was well seasoned and rested. A square of potato mille feuille – a variant of fondant potato – artichoke barigoule and a wedge of braised white cabbage were suitable accompaniments. Shallot purée was subtly sweet and creamy but slightly at odds with a pool of piquant sauce béarnaise. Although the various components of this meat course were skilfully prepared, I feel they did not work together as a coherent whole. Although not dry, perhaps a veal based sauce rather than the béarnaise might have improved the combination and finished look of the dish. Wine: Taurasi, Vesuvo, Manuel Barbone, Campania, Italy, 2009

For a simple cheese course, a slice of truffled Brie de Meaux, in perfect condition, came with spiced grape chutney and home-made biscuits. Wine: Krohn Port Colheita, Douro, Portugal, 1998

Warm raspberry soufflé, so often a disappointment in flavour in lesser establishments, was a triumph here. Well risen, light and bursting with the sweet sharpness of the fruit’s acidity, it confirmed the superior quality of Scottish raspberries. Enhanced by a tangy, smooth yogurt sorbet, this dessert exemplified the strengths of the pastry section of the kitchen. Wine: Contero, Brachetto D’Acqui, Piedmont, Italy, 2016 

Good coffee and petit fours completed this seven course tasting menu. The enjoyment was enhanced by the front of house team providing seamless service that is professional but not haughty. They work under the watchful eye of Jon Hemy whose hosting is welcoming, warm, engaging and informative. Sommelier Damien Trinkquel, whose experience includes The Glasshouse and La Trompette, advised knowledgeably on the wine, showing a passion that comes from a successful career in the industry.

Clearly, The Pompadour by Galvin is in capable hands, both in the kitchen and front of house. In the highly competitive market of high end Edinburgh restaurants, which has blossomed in recent years, it is more than holding its own. Fine Dining Guide will visit again, following its progress with interest.

Oxford Blue, the recently opened food led pub in Old Windsor, takes its name from the regiment of its original founder, Tom Evans. The dark tone of azure, the official colour of Oxford University distinguishes its wood panelled walls, window frames and the terrace balustrades and furniture. Inside, orange leather banquettes, upholstered bucket chairs in tartan and well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery add to the colour scheme. The up market décor and furniture blend well with classic features of the original building, exposed oak beams and double sided brick fireplace which separates the restaurant from the pub. The spacious bar area, comfortable stool and banquette seating, ensures that drinkers are given equal treatment.

Outside, a decked terrace offers al fresco service, whilst upstairs the Wine Attic, the private dining room, features oak tables surrounded by wine fridges set at different temperatures, to ensure the perfect service from the extensive list.

Clearly, during the 18 months before opening, there has been a huge investment in renovating a building that was originally two gamekeeper’s cottages. The transformation includes a new state of the art kitchen, a priority for Chef Proprietor Steven Ellis. His distinguished CV includes working as sous chef for Clare Smyth at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and for Andrew Pern at the Star Inn, North Yorkshire. The pedigree of senior management team is equally notable. General Manager Daniel Crump trained at Royal Hospital Road whilst his wife, restaurant manager, Margriet Vandezande-Crump held management positions at Trinity in Clapham and Petrus in Knightsbridge. With Michelin starred experience in abundance, nothing is done by halves both in the kitchens and front of house.

Provenance of ingredients is exemplary and partly regal, the Balmoral and Crown Estates supplying meat and game. Fruit and vegetables come from the Mash family farms, cheese from Neal’s Yard, herbs from the pub’s own five herb gardens, and ales from Windsor & Eton Brewery.

Steven’s cooking is firmly grounded in classical French techniques whilst reflecting British influences. Indeed, the fusion of traditional pub food with the elegance of fine dining is a balance that is masterly achieved. Dishes bear the mark of a highly creative and skilful chef. Dishes are multi component with combinations that are sometimes surprising but always harmonious in terms of taste, texture and temperature. Timing is precise and presentation being artful but not overworked.

Menu descriptions on the seasonally changing menu are terse, listing the main components of each dish but not the cooking method, which provides an element of surprise for the diner. Given the skill in cooking and the impeccable quality of the ingredients, prices are realistic. A good choice includes six starters ranging from £7 to £15; six mains from £19 to £32; sides at £4; and six desserts from £6.50 to £8.50. Cheese is £2.80 a slice. These are supplemented by Specials, three starters and three mains.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy weekday evening, with high expectations which were happily exceeded.

An amuse bouche of venison bon bons, immediately set the tone of rusticity and refinement. These warm, lightly crusted balls of soft, sweet and mildly gamey meat were lifted by a tangy mustard mayonnaise dip.

Delicious warm cider bread, with crisp crust and firm, well risen crumb, was served in a paper bag to extend the rustic theme. Baked on the premises it was served with a divine Ampersand cultured butter (minimum 82% fat)!

Three starters were enjoyed.

A refreshing chilled pea and mint soup had all the colour and vibrancy of a summer’s day. Based on a flavoursome stock, it was dressed with crème-fraiche to add richness and a crispbread stick to give texture.

A suckling pig’s trotter featured a gelatinous cylinder of succulent skin encasing the soft, well-seasoned shredded leg meat. A black pudding croquette with crisp crust and meltingly soft interior was topped with a dainty fried quail egg. Thin slices of Granny Smith and Pink lady apple added texture, colour and complementary flavour whilst blobs of sauce Gibriche gave a sharp lift to this inventive, labour intensive, porcine tour de force.

An equally accomplished starter where all components worked well together, saw a silky smooth, creamy, chicken liver parfait – a stalwart of pub menus – encased in an inventive Guinness glaze which elevated the dish to gastronomic heights. Apple batons, chutney, jelly and miniature brioche slices completed this sophisticated offering.

A main course saw Cod cooked three ways. A thick tranche of the loin was accurately timed to give a burnished crust and flakes of soft, clean white flesh. A brandade fritter gave contrasting flavour and texture whilst a swirl of taramaslata added a gentle, smoky richness. Simply accompanied by Jersey Royals, heralding the start of summer, and caper berries to add piquancy, this was another well-balanced, inventive dish.

Cooking wild rabbit is sometimes seen as one of the acid tests of game cookery. Notoriously difficult to get right in terms of flavour and texture, no highly regarded chef would resist the opportunity to offer it on their menu; and Steven’s Windsor Great Park rabbit dish is indeed another testament to his outstanding abilities. The braised shoulder and leg meat, cooked under a suet pudding crust, were properly soft and gamey. Loins encased in pancetta were moist and flavoursome whilst tiny chops retained their succulence. Peas and purple sprouting broccoli proved suitably summery accompaniments, adding texture, flavour and colour, whilst the elements were bought together by a light but rich jus.

Desserts, often an anti climax on gastro pub menus, did not disappoint, maintaining the high standards set by the preceding courses. Headed by Steven’s fiancée Ami, the pastry section delivers exquisite dishes in conception, flavour and presentation.

A peach parfait of perfect texture and creaminess was encased in a peach gel so as to resemble the whole fruit. Slices of the poached fruit, fresh raspberries and a crisp almond tuile showed this accomplished dessert needed no further dressing. On reflection, was this a playful take on Peach Melba?

Another fun dish, a unique interpretation of tea and biscuits, was Tregothnan Earl Grey tea soufflé which was well risen, fluffy and delicate. Paired with Biscuit ice cream which had a velvety texture this was another simple yet elegant dessert.

Finally a layered Chocolate dessert featured the malted mousse, piped cream and cocoa nibs topped with the thinnest sheet of tempered chocolate. A tangy Marscapone sorbet cut the richness of the sweeter elements.

Good coffee and a slab of salted hazelnut chocolate – served with a small mallet to crack it – completed this memorable meal. This was enhanced by the seamless service, from the doorman’s greeting to the final farewells, which was friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic without being obtrusive. The engaging and highly experienced General Manager, Daniel Crump, who oversaw the service on the evening we visited, gave us a tour of the premises, delighting in the achievements to date.

Oxford Blue is a class act, well deserving of the plaudits it has already received. The lofty standards reached both in the kitchen and front of house will stand it in good stead. Fine Dining Guide will follow its progress with interest, confident it will gain justifiable recognition by Michelin and other major guides this autumn.

Atul Kochhar, chef patron of Benares in Berkeley Square, is renowned for combining traditional and contemporary elements in his innovative take on Indian cuisine. Having gained a Michelin star first at Tamarind in 2001 then at his current restaurant in 2007, his unique blend of regional Indian cooking with a modern British twist has been frequently imitated but never matched. At the heart of his cuisine is the balance of flavours and textures in sometimes unusual combinations, where spicing, for warmth and aroma rather than heat, is acutely judged, thereby enhancing, rather than overwhelming the true flavour of top quality British produce. Minute attention to detail and elegant presentation do full justice to a seemingly inexhaustible creativity which has elevated Indian cuisine from curry house staple to sophisticated fine dining

The restaurant itself also bears signs of traditional Indian and modern British design and décor. The stylish interior, especially in the mural of rowing boats on the Ganges in the reception area, hand-crafted furniture and the lily pond water feature speak of the subcontinent. On the first floor, the elegant bar and glass-walled wine cellar are thoroughly modern British. So too is the low ceilinged 120 seat restaurant with five private dining areas. Decorated in tones of black and white, with dark wood screens, textured walls and extensive spotlighting, the spacious room exudes understated luxury and sophistication. Well-spaced, albeit small, tables are dressed in fine napery, whilst comfortable seating is provided by low chairs and banquettes.

A variety of menus includes a good value three courses set lunch at £35 and a carte where starters range from £14 to £27, mains from £26 to £36 and desserts £9.50 to £12. A Street Food Menu, designed to be eaten by hand” are priced individually or £30 for five sharing dishes.These prices are realistic given the impeccable quality and provenance of the ingredients, the skill and flair shown in cooking, the generosity of the portions and the artful presentation, not to mention the luxurious dining room and prestigious location in the heart of Mayfair.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy lunchtime in mid-May, opting for the seven course tasting menu with a flight of “Captivating” wines. Pairing Asian food with wine has always been a challenge for even the most experienced of sommeliers. That Benares offers flights of either “Captivating” or “Prestigious” wines chosen from their extensive list is a testament to the confidence it has in its offering.

Famed for the inventive yet judicious use of spices, this expertise extends to the two vodka based signature cocktails. The first, a green martini with coriander, chilli and tamarind marinade balanced spicy and sour flavours. The other, mixed with a homemade chutney of passion fruit and chilli flakes was equally refreshing. Both were enjoyed between nibbles of mini lentil popadoms with freshly made apricot, tomato and gooseberry chutneys.

The amuse bouche which opened the tasting menu elevated a staple of North Indian street food to a sophisticated fine dining starter. Potato and sweet potato chaat, enveloped in yoghurt foam and scattered with marinated pomegranate seeds, was lighter, sweeter and more refined than humbler versions.

An aromatic shellfish course featured a plump seared scallop, with a sesame and coriander crust and soft, succulent flesh, paired with a succulent king prawn pickled in five spices including cumin and mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel. Tomato chutney and slow roasted tomato gave sweetness to balance the subtle spicing – which also included a fragrant pine nut podi – allowing the natural flavours of the shellfish to shine. This composite dish of contrasting textures, temperatures and flavours was a tour de force for creativity and invention.  Wine: 2014 Viognier, Clay Station, Lodi, California, USA

Tandoori Chicken Tikka pie for two – a playful Indian take on the French pithivier? – had delicate domed pastry case surrounding a creamy, mildly spiced filling. Mixed berry chutney, perhaps a little too sweet – proved a good foil, enlivening the whole dish.  Wine: 2014 Soave La Rocca, Pieropan, Veneto, Italy

The fish course saw a tranche of marinated Scottish salmon cooked in charcoal tandoor. The gentle smokiness enhanced the rich flavour of this oily fish, which retained its moistness despite being cooked at an extreme temperature. Finished with a moulee sauce of coconut, curry leaf and mustard seeds poured at the table, the Keralan influence was clearly in evidence. In contrast, the accompaniments of Cornish crab croquette perched on tomato chutney, spiced vermicelli and a swirl of beetroot puree revealed some modern British influences. Overall the components worked well together, making this a well-conceived, skilfully executed and elegantly presented dish. Wine: 2013 Gewurztraminer Atul’s Signature, Jean Claude Gueth, Alsace, France.

Sorbets as an intermediate course have lost favour in modern European tasting menus. How pleasing it is to see them in Atul Kochhar’s repertoire. Indeed, the lime sherbet with fresh mint and roasted cumin embraced mainly citric, with hints of herbal and spice flavours, proving to be a most refreshing palate cleanser.

Compared with the preceding dishes, the main course was relatively simple but no less accomplished. Two cuts of English lamb treated in different ways: rump, arguably the most flavoursome, was simply roasted whereas the cutlet was marinated in Kashmiri red chilli and cooked in the tandoor. Again, accurate timing in the cooking and resting maximised the rich flavour and tenderness of the meat. The accompanying mildly spiced Rogan jus set off the meat perfectly.

Side dishes were also carefully rendered. Pilau rice was fluffy and fragrant, parathas flaky and buttery; and Dai Makhani, (the black lentils cooked for 12 hours in cream and butter) being slightly sweet, thick but not mushy. Wine: 2013 Pinot Noir Muddy Water, Waipara, New Zealand   savour, leather – perfect match

Finally, for dessert, chocolate lava cake with its molten filling worked well with an intense raspberry jelly and Bhapa Doi, the steamed yoghurt being delicately lifted, not overpowered, by rose water. Wine: 014 Eradus Sticky Micky, Late Harvest Sauvignon, Marlborough, New Zealand.

Overall, this was an outstanding tasting menu. The experience was enhanced by the highly professional front of house team ably led by restaurant manager Mukesh Pandey.

Welcoming and attentive but not intrusive, informative without being condescending, the carefully timed, seamless service ran like a well-oiled machine, but one with personality and good humour.

It is hardly surprising that Benares remains the leading gastronomic Indian restaurant, having retained a Michelin star for ten years. Fine Dining Guide is confident in its continued success and will follow its future progress with interest.

The Great British Restaurant (GBR) is the new incarnation of Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham at Dukes, London, (2011 to 2017). It has undergone a radical transformation in design and décor accompanied by the equally modern food offering of all day dining. Remodelled, with the removal of the PJ lounge corridor wall, it now features two smaller areas. Gone is the orange and cream of the traditional, conservative feel, to be replaced by a more casual yet luxurious look, featuring tones of blue, black, white and grey.

Antique mirrors, lining the low ceiling and part of the walls, increase the sense of light and space. Equally glamourous is the black granite top bar with upholstered bar stools for seven. Well-spaced granite topped tables have classic leather and velvet banquette or more traditional dining chair seating. Black and white reportage photography line the walls, evoking the hotel’s celebrated past and the guests who frequented it.

Executive head chef Nigel Mendham has now diverted from a career noted for hotel fine dining, including leading the kitchens at the Michelin starred Samling in the Lake District. This is a bold move indeed, necessitating the oversight of three services a day, seven days a week. Diversity in the main lunch and dinner menu is another prerequisite, hence the need for traditional British classics alongside more contemporary, casual and fine dining dishes. Few restaurants would offer, say, confit duck egg, duck liver parfait, fish and chips, treacle sponge and jam rolly poly on the same menu.

The carte includes six starters ranging from £5.50 to £11.50; “A taste of Spring” featuring charcuterie and smoked dishes to share, both at £16; four salads, £14.50 to £18; “Signatures” of chicken pie, GBR burger and sausage roll, £18 to £6; mains from £10 to £28 with sides at £4.50 and five desserts at £6. Overall Prices are reasonable given the quality of ingredients and the large portions. Not forgetting this is St James’s!

The drinks list avoids greedy markups. Signature cocktails are priced £2 to £14; craft beers £6 for 33cl, 13 white and 13 red wines are offered, 7 of each by the glass.

Fine Dining Guide was invited to visit for lunch in mid May, before the official opening.  Restaurant manager Robert Dokler was welcoming and informative, and the service itself was well meaning, if occasionally in need of fine tuning.

Four starters were sampled.

Duck liver parfait was suitably light, smooth and deeply rich in flavour. A crisp Yorkshire pudding added a contrasting texture and proved a novel and memorable idea. A quenelle of caramelised onion, which cut the richness of the parfait, helped balance the dish.

The beautifully sweet, fresh white meat of Norfolk crab was presented on a light mayonnaise. Rye bread melba toast added an element of crispness, and overall the dish worked well, although perhaps not needed was the addition of the cubes of compressed apple.

Wye valley asparagus was accurately cooked al dente. The accompanying hollandaise made this an enjoyable summer dish.  The breaded quail eggs provided a pleasing combination of tastes, while to be completely satisfying, more accurate timing would have produced runnier yolks.

The best of the starters sampled, more suited to a fine dining menu, was the slow cooked confit duck yolk with a smooth, vibrantly flavoured pea veloute and earthy morels. This refined dish allowed the sweet and savoury elements to speak for themselves.

Two contrasting main courses were ordered.

Free range chicken pie had a classic filling of cubes of chicken breast in a white sauce. Generous in size – the dish was enough for two – and rustically presented, the filling perhaps needed a little more seasoning to lift it. The herbed hot suet top crust had striking flavour and with a little tweaking this will prove a popular dish with regulars.

By way of contrast, new season lamb rump was more refined, the quality of the meat was clear – packed with flavour, tender, cooked to retain its moisture and enhanced by classic garnishes of smoked aubergine, confit tomatoes and wild garlic.

Of the side dishes, triple cooked chips had the delicious, moreish quality expected from the preparation. Both the broccoli (with pancetta and almonds) and heritage carrots showed strong produce but demonstrated some cooking inconsistencies that might be expected of a pre-opening kitchen, which can easily be corrected with a sharper focus on timing.

To finish, there was a refined lemon based dessert: a base of lemon curd accompanied lemon parfait, which, topped with confit lemon zest, had perfect texture and a good balance of sweetness and acidity. Lime leaf cream added extra fragrance and softer texture, contrasting also with crisp meringue shards giving a light crispness.

Yorkshire rhubarb dessert was cooked sous vide, in this case it remained too firm and stringy, the ginger crumble was well made, the rhubarb gel was not too sweet and the smooth vanilla ice cream added a contrast of temperature.

Overall, this was a lunch of highs and lows, but it must be remembered the visit was in a period of pre-opening, during which inconsistencies are identified and ironed out. This bold new venture deserves success, and, given the reputation of the chef and hotel, these are likely to be rectified sooner rather than later. Fine Dining Guide will follow the GBR’s progress with interest.