David O’Connor and Joe Mercer-Nairne, owners of Medlar, for 15 years the acclaimed restaurant in Chelsea, have opened their second restaurant, Cornus, at 27c Eccleston Place, Belgravia. It is Located on the top floor of the Ice Factory, a repurposed warehouse in a corner of Ecclestone Yards precinct.

Reached through an imposing entrance and its own lift, the “L” shaped dining room is bright and airy. Well-spaced round tables with comfortable designer chairs line the side walls while a line of smaller square ones with banquette seating occupy the middle, giving a capacity of 75+ covers. There is also a private dining room seating 18 to 20 guests.  A long marble bar with a quadruple arched drinks display is a major feature, its rounded curves soften the sharp horizontal and vertical lines which dominate the room. The colour scheme – a “mid-century modern palette” – allows everything to work harmoniously, such as the dark of the wood merging into the lush of the velvet curtains. The hanging artwork will reflect the varied colours of the dogwood plant, the non- botanical name for Cornus.

In an otherwise elegant restrained design, the steel air conditioning units and ducts provide an element of industrial chic. Above each unit the vertical glazing of the sawtooth roof provides ample natural light throughout. This is supplemented by well-directed spotlights, feature lights over the bar, and discreet wall lighting. At night, the twinkling lights of the capital’s skyline enter through the large windows.

In future developments, the terrace will also enable al fresco dining and there is potential for a conservatory extension.

Leading the kitchen brigade of eight is executive chef Gary Foulkes. With an impressive CV of over 20 years cooking in Michelin starred restaurants, including a head chef position under Phil Howard at The Square, he finally gained and maintained his own star at Angler restaurant in The City.

Gary’s finely tuned cooking is based on French classical skills partnered by imagination and flair both in the combination of ingredients and cooking methods. Witness, for instance, cod with Scottish girolles, squid and bacon or or tomatoes dressed in cherry juice.

No compromise has been made on the provenance of top quality, largely seasonal ingredients. Scottish langoustines, Devon crab, Loch Duart salmon, native lobster, Landes chicken, Alsace bacon and even N25 Oscietra caviar all feature on the current menu. The use of Hubert Lacoste’s tomatoes, Black Australian truffles, Romero peppers, English raspberries, Amalfi lemons and Sicilian pistachios reflect a similar approach to plant-based produce. Some oriental influences are seen in the use of wasabi, Haas avocado, shiso, fig leaf and finger limes.

The visual simplicity of dishes belies their complexity of conception, the labour intensity of execution, and restraint in the immaculate presentation. Precise cooking and resting of meat and fish dishes maximise their inherent flavour while balance in taste and texture is achieved by complementary garnishes, intense purees and light sauces. Nevertheless, plates are uncluttered, with clean presentation allowing the star of the dish to shine.  Vegetarian options are treated with equal care and respect.

A three-course menu with just five options in each course – not including a Cote de Beouf sharing dish – allows the kitchen to deliver at a consistently high level. There is a slight emphasis on shellfish and fish. Prices are realistic given the superb quality of the ingredients, the expertise in transforming them into exquisite cuisine, and the comfort of the newly designed restaurant in a central London location, not to mention the seamless, engaging hospitality for which David O’Connor is renowned. They also compare favourably with similar high end restaurants boasting Michelin starred chefs.

Meals begin with a crisp gougere filled with a strong cheese fondue topped with an ethereal parmesan chiffonade. This amuse-bouche excited the palate without stealing the thunder of the dishes to follow. Sourdough and focaccia bread were both well-crafted.

An outstanding starter featured soft, hand rolled spaghetti topped with a trio of lobster slices and a generous quenelle of N25 Oscietra caviar. It was dressed with a reduced bisque enhanced with lobster coral. The succulence of the crustacean, the umami hit of top-grade caviar – both lifted by the gentle freshness of Amalfi lemon – and the rich viscosity of the bisque made this a sensational tour de force of cookery.

A visually stunning dish of handpicked Devon crab showed the meticulous attention to detail for which the chef is renown. The sweet and slightly briny crab meat was blended with a judicious amount of wasabi foam which enhanced the delicate white flesh. Piped drops of Haas avocado added a contrasting subtle creaminess, while the harmonious combination was lifted by a gel of finger lime decorated with their leaves. This light shellfish starter delighted in its clean, vibrant freshness.

A third starter of Loch Duart Salmon tartare saw the well-seasoned, utterly fresh fish bound by a light oyster cream. The richness was balanced by the gentle acidity of green apple batons and the herbaceous astringency of shiso.

A lightly dressed warm salad of artichokes and summer beans was accurately timed to retain their crisp textures and earthy flavours. Breaded soft yoke quail’s eggs added a skilful contrasting element while the whole dish was finished with a generous scattering of headily fragrant shaved black Australian truffle.

The two fish main courses demonstrated accurate timing in their pan roasting and resting to produce a golden seared crust and soft gleaming white flesh.

The mild taste and firm texture of Roast Wild Halibut allowed it to take on other bolder flavours as shown in the dressing of black olives, semi dried San Marzano tomatoes, parsley, shallots and lime. Lightly cooked ribbons of yellow courgette came as a swirl and in a cannelloni form stuffed with a flavoursome Baldo rice, tomato and herb filling.  Parsley puree added a powerful hit to this impressive combination of tastes and textures.

The delicate, buttery flakes of Roast Newlyn Cod testified to its utter freshness. Cauliflower puree added a smooth creaminess. The innovative trio of a persillade of Scottish girolles, seared line caught squid and Alsace bacon gave contrasting robust flavours to balance the gentle sweetness of the fish.

Perhaps the simplest yet the most successful main course showcased Arnaud Tauzin’s acclaimed free range, corn-fed Landes chicken. The well-seasoned roasted breast had burnished skin and firm, juicy full flavoured flesh. Plump, sweet Scottish langoustine tails complemented the savoury flavour of the poultry while sauteed girolles and corn puree added earthy notes and contrasting textures.  This combination was adorned with a generous scattering of Black Australian truffle, which made it even more luxurious, and finished with a light roast chicken sauce. This dish showed how expensive, top grade ingredients treated with respect and cooked simply can produce brilliant results.

A main course of Southdown lamb used juicy rump – one of the most flavoursome cuts – and lamb trimmings in a spicy kofte. Paired with sweet pepper piperade and seasoned with fried capers and olives, this accurately timed and judiciously balanced dish of strong tastes celebrated the true flavours of the Mediterranean.

Desserts also maintained the lofty standards of the savoury courses, revealing the refined skills of the pastry section.

A mille-feuille of English raspberries had beautifully crisp, perfectly laminated layers of buttery puff pastry sandwiched with rich lemon verbena cream and topped with raspberry coulis and a velvety smooth baked ice cream using baked raspberries which produce a richer, more rounded flavour.

A simpler, but no less accomplished dessert, was a slice of Amalfi lemon tart with crisp pate sucree and a soft, creamy filling with a deeply intense citrus tang. Silky Greek Yogurt ice cream complemented the tart perfectly.

A choice of Difference coffee, a speciality, and two cocktails – Expresso Martini and Clarified coffee Negroni are offered as post dinner drinks

Canapes of apricot and yoghurt macaroons, chocolate and pistachio amaretti, and hazelnut and clotted cream fudge were models of their kind, bringing a sweet conclusion to a highly satisfying meal.

Hospitality at Cornus begins with a welcoming and friendly greeting on arrival. This puts guests at their ease, the relaxed feel being reinforced by the cheerful non uniformed front of house staff. Knowledgeable advice is offered on food and wine. Melania Battison from Medlar has now returned as the engaging, passionate head sommelier, guiding diners through a serious wine list of Old and New World offerings. Attention at tables is efficient, can be anticipatory, but is never intrusive. All this makes for a most pleasant dining experience.

Cornus is an exciting addition to the highly competitive fine dining scene in central London. Given the extensive experience both in the front of house and in the kitchen, it deserves to be successful. Fine Dining Guide wishes David, Gary and their teams continued good fortune and will follow their progress with studied interest.

Cannonball Restaurant and Bar, owned by the Contini family, is found in an imposing 17^th Century house which still bears the cannonball lodged in its wall from which the restaurant takes its name. Located at the highest (western) end of the Royal Mile, it boasts spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle and city’s skyline.

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The restaurant is found on the top floor, in what was once the art room of the school that had occupied the building. Tall windows, skylights, and dangling lamps provide ample lighting for this spacious, high-ceilinged room. A marble bar, wooden floors, cream-coloured walls and plain undressed tables help to create an informal, relaxed feel.

When full, the restaurant serves a maximum of 64 covers, with five front of house and a full brigade in the kitchen led by Tommy Crosby. His cooking combines classical skills with a contemporary outlook. Well-conceived imaginative dishes combine harmonious ingredients, showing balance in flavour, texture and temperature. The menu changes with the seasons, maximising the use of prime Scottish produce. The presentation of dishes is clean, with clear and concise descriptions given by the server. Prices are realistic given the high standard of cuisine and compare favourably with restaurants of a similar standard.  All these qualities were demonstrated in the monthly changing five-course tasting menu with paired wines.

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To begin, an amuse bouche of haggis bonbon with creme fraiche and shaved pickled turnip excited the taste buds. A freshly baked poppy and pumpkin seed loaf with whipped butter had good flavour with its light, open-textured crumb and crisp crust.

The accompanying aperitif, “She sells sea shells”, featured Hendricks gin, Smokehead whisky, lemon juice and sugar, giving a judicious balance of salinity and sweetness.

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An impressive first course of slowly cooked pork cheek was finished with a gastric glaze, enhancing its soft, porcine succulence.  Cavolo Nero and star anise white onion puree provided a spiced earthiness which balanced the sweet acidity of the gastric and saffron pickled pear. Crispy shallots gave a contrasting texture to the dish needed. Overall, this was a successful marriage of relatively humble ingredients elevated to fine dining level. Wine: 2020 McLaren vale Grenache, Willunga 100, Australia

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Equally accomplished was a modern take on a classic dish of trout with almonds.  A generous fillet of citrus-cured rainbow trout was precisely timed to give crisp skin and mild, slightly sweet flesh flakes. A rich puree of caramelised almonds and cauliflower scattered with toasted almond flakes contrasted with the gentle onion flavour of wilted wild leeks.  To finish, rosemary oil gave an herbaceous but not overpowering lift to the whole dish. Wine: “Matrimonio”, Maturno Organic, I Ciacca, Pisinisco, Lazio

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The main course of venison was a little less innovative than the two preceding courses but no less satisfying. The loin of red deer, encrusted with a juniper and parley crust, was accurately seared and rested to a medium rare pink, soft in texture and earthy in flavour. This was exemplary game cookery. The accompanying vegetables featured smoky charred shallot; herbal thyme rosti; sweet parsnip puree; verdantly fresh spring greens, and pickled red cabbage which gave a gentle acidity. All these worked well with the game, the dish being bought together by a deeply flavoured red wine sauce. Wine: 2020 Bodega Reserva Tannat, Maldonado, Uraguay

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The cheese course comprised a wedge of creamy, silky Clava Brie, from the Scottish Highlands. Quince jelly and oatcakes added the necessary sweetness and contrasting granular, crisp texture which proved the ideal foil to the soft, rich quality of the cheese. Wine: Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port, Sandeman, Portugal

For dessert, apple parfait had a smooth iced texture and a pleasing balance of acidity and sweetness. Caramelised apple gave contrasting texture and a gentle bitterness, while thyme cream, and sable crumb spiced with mace gave herbal and warming spice notes that worked well with the fruit.  Wine: Domaine Laguillon, Jurancon Doux, France

Good coffee ended a memorable meal, one enhanced by the warm welcome and the seamless, anticipatory service. Indeed, Peter, who looked after the table, introduced the food and wine with impressive knowledge and genuine enthusiasm.

Overall, Cannonball has demonstrated the high level of cooking and hospitality that gained it the accolades achieved when it first opened in 2014. It continues to attract discerning foodies both local and those from further afield. Fine Dining Guide hopes to revisit to sample the a la carte menu and will follow its fortunes with interest.

KORA in Bruntsfield is the latest of Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s restaurants in Edinburgh. It has arisen Phoenix-like from the ashes of Southside Scran, their popular brasserie which was forced to close due to major plumbing problems, not of its own making, then crucially by the Covid epidemic. 

Named after the Greek Goddess of Spring and new beginnings, KORA’s design has a more Nordic feel with its wooden floors, exposed brickwork, and pastel green walls. Nevertheless, it retains some of the features of its predecessor – the split-level areas, the brass rails and screens, and the cosy dining booths.

True to Tom’s “Nature-to-plate” mantra, seasonal Scottish produce is employed in a wide range of inventive, reworked classic a la carte and weekend brunch dishes. Menu descriptions emphasise the provenance of key ingredients. Pricing is competitive, even more so given the impeccable quality of the produce and the skill in cooking.

11 Bar snacks from £3.50 to £8 feature pork scratchings from Tomlinson’s farm with rhubarb puree, pork rillettes, oysters, and even Caviar for £60!

Seven starters from £9.50 to £23 include Hand dived Orkney scallops a la Grenobloise or warm pressed haggis terrine with neeps and tatties

Eight mains, £18- to £33, comprise three vegetarian dishes, two fish and three meat options These range from roasted cauliflower steak, through to Newhaven seasonal fish and shellfish soup and braised Highland Wagyu shin with KORA Caesar salad

Six Brunch items from £7.50 to £18 include Omelette Arnold Bennett with Welch’s smoked haddock, and Mull Cheddar Welsh rarebit, both served with Koffmann’s skinny fries.

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Fine Dining Guide visited on a Friday lunchtime to sample dishes from the a la carte and brunch menus. A vividly coloured frozen sea buckthorn margarita cocktail proved wonderfully refreshing in its fruity tartness.

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From the bar snack selection, tender florets of broccoli tempura had an ethereally light, translucent batter with a well- balanced spicy Asian dip.

A main course of Castle game Sika deer was a masterclass in game and pastry cooking. A delicate, burnished dome of light buttery puff pastry – with no soggy bottom! –  was crammed with tender, flavoursome braised shoulder and leg meat.  Alongside were two precisely timed and rested pink slices of roasted loin, succulent in flavour and almost melting in texture. Garnished with Free Company beetroot which added the required earthy note, and brought together by a rich red wine jus, this was accomplished cooking of the highest order.

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A simple, yet truly indulgent dessert comprised warm, light and fluffy mini doughnuts with separate pots of chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream. Service was welcoming and informative, a feature of all of Tom Kitchin’s restaurants. Hastyn who looked after my table was particularly helpful in guiding my choices. Given more time, more dishes would have been sampled, but that will be for a future visit to which we look forward.

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[Chef Adam Fisher]

Hillfield Restaurant at Pennyhill Park, Bagshot is now in the capable hands of Chef Adam Fisher.  His diverse experience, ranging from the Ginger Fox in Brighton to the German Embassy in Belgravia, and most recently the Barn at Coworth Park, has amply prepared him for his current position.

He is now free to focus more on the fundamentals of seasonality, sustainability, “hyper-locality” and “farm to fork, nose to tail” in his cooking. With the ultimate aim of gaining a Michelin Green Star, produce from the Pennyhill Park estate, Surrey Hills, and the extensive kitchen garden will greatly assist in the drive to lower the restaurant’s carbon footprint. Indeed, the aim is to source most of its products, including foraged items, from a 25-mile radius. The provenance of the main ingredients, such as Windsor Great Park rabbit or Haverstock Park buffalo mozzarella, is proudly acknowledged on the menu.

Firmly grounded in the techniques of classical cuisine, Adam Fisher’s tasty dishes are often playful and imaginative yet can be complex in their preparation. The precise timing of meat and fish, the balance of flavours and textures in harmonious combinations, and attention to detail are evident in abundance. The presentation is clean and precise, without superfluous garnishes. Many fine dining elements are present, although the chef modestly prefers to see his cuisine as a transition from classic brasserie style to touches of high gastronomy through accomplished restaurant cooking.

The à la carte menu offers a good range of starters, mains and desserts with realistic prices to reflect the excellent quality of the ingredients and the skills and creativity demonstrated in the kitchen.

A delightful tartlet of crisp, thin pastry, and sweet white crab meat garnished with caviar provided the perfect accompaniment to our aperitif.

Two starters showcased both classical and contemporary approaches to Adam’s cuisine.

A generous slice of a dense, three-layered terrine, featured the deep, smoky gentle saltiness of ham hock, the well-seasoned, moist, soft texture of Cotswold White chicken, and the unashamedly silky richness of duck liver, perfectly marinated using the Ritz recipe. Finished with chorizo jam which balanced the savoury elements, this was a highly accomplished dish

Equally appetising but more innovative was Adam’s signature dish – a savoury éclair. Crisp choux pastry was filled with sticky, slow-cooked beef short rib enriched with bone marrow. Truffle hollandaise added a creamy texture and contrasting flavour while pickled mushrooms gave the necessary acidic element which cut the dish’s overall richness. A generous shaving of truffle added a heady fragrance to this unapologetically decadent, truly creative offering.

A special offered also revealed an imaginative approach based on Bunny chow, the popular South African street food. Here, a crisp bread roll was hollowed out and filled with plump mussels, shallots, chives, garlic, sea vegetables and a little cream to bind them together. This flavoursome seafood dish showed how relatively humble ingredients could be elevated to high end satisfaction and standards.

Meat cookery continued the theme of skilful and thoughtful cooking.

A saddle of Muntjak deer was precisely cooked and rested to maximise the flavour of its fine-grained, lean meat. A faggot created from the leg meat provided a contrasting texture and richer flavour, while baby turnips, barbequed carrots and leeks with their own purees gave deep, earthy accompaniments. Finished with a lip-smacking barbeque sauce based on reduced veal jus, this dish was ideal for a game lover.

The neck of lamb, appropriately slow-roasted for this muscular cut, was strong and slightly gamey in its flavour. It worked well with the herbal notes of cooked lovage, and the robust qualities of beer-braised onion. A delicate celeriac gratin with its puree added to the earthiness of the garnishes and a punchy port jus brought all the elements together with a touch of sweetness. Too full to sample the desserts, which we would confidently expect to reach the same standards as the savoury courses, we reflected on how satisfying was the visit to Hillfield at Pennyhill Park. The experience was enhanced by the relaxed, spacious and comfortable dining room, the highly knowledgeable and unobtrusive service, and the opportunity to chat with Adam Fisher. We wish him well in his ambitions and will follow his career with interest.

Bray in Berkshire comes to Oxshott in Surrey in the form of the rejuvenated community dining pub, The Victoria. This is the first independent venture of Matt Larcombe, former Head Chef at Heston Blumenthal’s The Crown, and Simon King who was a senior operational manager for Heston’s Group.

Together they have modernised and extended The Victoria in this prosperous town in leafy Surrey. Inside, low beams, panelling, banquettes and an open fire in winter make for a comfortable, cosy experience. There is also a bar area for those who just come to drink. Outside, the spacious terraced garden seating is ideal for alfresco dining.

Chef Director Matt Larcombe’s extensive experience also includes working with acclaimed chefs such as Michael Wignall, Paul Kitching, Adam Wesley and Ashley Palmer-Watts. Their distilled influences, along with his own creativity, have resulted in an innovative cooking style that embraces both classical and contemporary techniques. Invention is moderated by a shrewd culinary acumen, resulting in well balanced, harmonious combinations. Menu descriptions are terse in the current fashion, listing the main ingredients with no indication of how they are cooked, often giving the diner a welcome surprise when the dish is presented.

Steaks from the grill, along with a special Bordelaise sauce have been a mainstay of the menu. Pub classics such as fish and triple cooked chips, which are retained all year round, are found alongside modern vegetarian options such as roasted cauliflower steak with torched corn and coriander salad. Fish features prominently, on the day we visited featured a sharing dish of Day boat plaice with beurre noisette, capers, cucumber and Jersey royals.

Prices are realistic for food at this level, given the impeccable quality of ingredients, more of which is being sourced locally, and the undoubted skill in cooking by a team of six. Covers are limited to a maximum of 65-70 to ensure  consistency and quality.

The a la carte menu features three “snacks”, £5 to £8; six starters, £9 to £17;

seven mains: £19 to £27; and three steaks from the charcoal grill, £ 23 to £125 for salt chamber tomahawk steak for two. Sides are £6-£7; and four desserts, £9 to £15 and a selection of British cheese at £13.

There is also a good value three course lunch, with options in each course.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy weekday lunch in mid-June. We chose dishes from the a la carte menu.

A good first impression was made by the Linseed sourdough, sourced from a small artisan bakery in Horsham. This is a good example of using personal /local contacts to ensure top quality produce. The bread had a good crust and great flavour, with creamery butter being cultured and hand churned.

A “snack” of deep-fried oysters encased in a light and crisp batter came with a dip of herby seaweed mayonnaise. The bivalve retained its essential creamy brininess under the delicate crust. A more traditional offering was the sweet and savoury classic of devils on horseback, featuring plump juicy pitted prunes wrapped in crisp salty bacon.

The preparation of the signature starter of mushroom parfait with sweet and sour onions revealed the creativity and labour intensity of this deeply flavoured, silky textured, dish. Humble button mushrooms are caramelised for an hour until completely dry and added to a reduction of port, brandy, shallots and garlic for the stock base, as with any classical recipe. More stock is chilled, frozen, defrosted then passed through muslin, the filtered juices producing an intense jelly, a process taking 24-48 hours. This gives extra richness to this essentially earthy dish, which is balanced by the sweetness and astringency of caramelised red onions. Visually stunning with its white frill of finely sliced mushrooms, the parfait was partnered with buttery toasted brioche. This dish, brilliant in conception and accomplished in execution, could become a modern classic.

Another attractively presented starter featured salt chamber aged beef tartare made with the more flavoursome sirloin, (rather than the usual fillet), cut larger for a firmer texture which was also helped by the rich fat. Precise seasoning, crucial in this dish, allowed the natural beefy flavour to shine, while creamy richness was provided by yolk from Burford brown eggs which had been steamed for 16 hours. Crispy onion rings – why haven’t chefs thought of this before? –  gave relief from the softer textures. Here was another classic starter taken to higher level by a few judicious adjustments.

Sous vide is an overused and sometimes inappropriate method for cooking. Here, however, it was successfully used to cook a main course of free-range chicken breast which retained its moist texture and delicate flavour. A crumble of bacon sauteed in butter gave contrasting texture and also acted as a seasoning. Pea puree and grilled gem lettuce added freshness to complement the savoury elements. Overall, this was a well balanced, cleanly presented dish, confirming the dictum that “less is more.”

A pan-fried fillet of seabream was perfectly timed to produce crisp skin and soft, moist flesh. A smooth, red pepper coulis and chargrilled spring onions worked in perfect harmony with their sweet and smoky flavours and contrasting textures. Squid came in two preparations:  chargrilled strips supporting the fish fillet, and deep-fried tentacles mixed with the accompanying heritage tomato salad. This elegant, summery dish was perfect for those who preferred a lighter main course.

Sides of triple cooked chips and purple sprouting broccoli tossed in toasted almond butter were deftly executed.

The pastry section, led by Tracey Rutt, whose CV includes experience at The Fat Duck and Cliveden House, demonstrated its skill and sophistication, producing inventive and playful desserts.

First amongst these was The Victoria, inspired by the restaurant’s name and the classic sponge named after the queen, not that you would recognise it as such. Instead, a globe of crisp white chocolate, sandwiched with pastry cream and strawberry jam, encased the classic sponge, a silky strawberry sorbet and lime gel. This inspired confection, embracing contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures, transformed a popular if uninteresting afternoon tea favourite, into a spectacular, memorable dessert.

Equally impressive was a play on rhubarb and custard. This layered construction comprised a Breton sable topped with rhubarb compote, an unmoulded free standing crème brûlée crowned with a rhubarb sorbet dressed with a rhubarb tuile. Each of these elements was crafted with consummate skill, from the textured biscuit and intensely flavoured compote, to the rich, smooth custard with crisp caramelised crust and velvety sorbet with its lace like tuile.

A well risen soufflé which retains height and has a light, dry texture is difficult to achieve even in the finest kitchens. Not here. The flavoursome banana souffle exhibited all these qualities in full, being enhanced by candied banana chips for a contrasting texture, a rum caramel syrup and an exemplary vanilla ice cream.

Good coffee and knowledgeable, seamless service by a young front of house team completed a memorable meal.

With its refined yet relaxed ambience, its well-judged price point and, most importantly, its distinguished food offering, The Victoria has already made its mark on the well-heeled, discerning diners of Oxshott. As word spreads, it will become more than a “community pub”, no doubt attracting those from further afield. Simon King, who led the front of house throughout our visit, has a wealth of experience – not just most recently in the senior management ranks of Heston Blumenthal but previously having worked his way up through the ranks of Gordon Ramsay Group to Group Operations Director. Such experience coupled with business insight and knowledge of hospitality bodes well for The Victoria. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return and will follow its fortunes with interest.

Elegant, sophisticated and beautiful is how one might describe Bath’s South Parade. The Elder Restaurant, housed in Hotel Indigo, forms a distinguished part of this range of newly restored Georgian townhouses.

The same epithets could justifiably be applied to the cooking of Gavin Edney, Group Head Chef of the Elder and its sister restaurants, The Woodsman in Stratford Upon Avon and The Forge in Chester. Inspired to open this new restaurant in Bath, Mike Robinson, restaurateur and a leading authority on wild food and game has collaborated with Gavin to produce an appealing repertoire of dishes that adhere to the group’s “Field to Plate” philosophy, with its emphasis on ethical sustainability, wild food, seasonality and locality.

Knowledge of provenance and good relations are essential prerequisites for engaging high-quality producers of meat, fish, game and wild food.  As Robinson says, “We know the farmers, the foragers and the fishermen. Our own Huntsman manages wild deer over large estates.” These ingredients are transformed with great skill and care into the select menu of The Elder.

The main carte features four starters, five mains, four puddings and a cheese option. Prices are realistic given the excellent quality of the ingredients – the provenance of which is acknowledged on the menu – and the skill and creativity of the cooking.

With a CV that includes experience at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, the Galvin Restaurants and most recently head chef at André Garrett at Cliveden, Taplow, Gavin’s reputation as a master in the kitchen is beyond doubt. Meat, game and fish are precisely timed and rested to optimise flavour and texture. Combinations of seasonal ingredients are well-balanced, so the main element is never overwhelmed by the accompaniments. Saucing is a particular strength, enhancing the overall impact of the dish. The presentation is clean and portions are generous.

The venue where his food is enjoyed is a series of four rooms of different sizes and covers, with a maximum for 70 covers combined. The main dining room has 14 covers. The green panels, lined with paintings of horse racing and jockeys give the feel of a traditional gentleman’s club. Leather banquettes, metal candelabra, heavy drapes, wall lights and strip lighting enhance this feel. The wooden tables are undressed but well-spaced. 

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in October to sample the autumn menu.

Homemade granary bread had a crisp crust with a nutty, rich taste and nobbly texture. It was served with Chew Valley butter from a Jersey cow. Accompanying this was a small glass of bullshot, made from beef and venison stock, black pepper and chilli, an unusual but warming opening to a cold evening’s dinner.

The first course featured a tartare of sea bream. The clean taste and delicate flavour of the dense, juicy white flesh was enhanced by the gentle acidity of tomatillo and moderated by the sweetness of the apple. Dashi gave the dish an umami lift and dots of taramasalata a creamy richness. Completed with squid ink and tapioca crisp, which balanced the softer elements, this was a brilliantly conceived and beautifully executed dish.

The following warm seafood dish combined classic and contemporary elements. Plump baked Fowey river mussels with a mild taste and tender chewiness were shrouded in a well-seasoned velouté. Topped with baked sourdough crumb, chives with their mild onion taste and nori dust which added a subtle sea flavoured umami touch, these contrasting ingredients balanced the creamy richness of the velouté. Accompanied by a Falmouth Bay seaweed baguette to mop up the juices, this was another highly satisfying dish.

A main course of nose-to-tail fallow deer perfectly exemplified the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability, wild food, seasonality and its field to plate philosophy.  Venison comes from the Bathurst estate, where the group‘s Huntsman oversees the ethical management of the deer before being processed in the group’s FSA regulated larder. Full justice to the animal was achieved by the accurate medium-rare timing of the haunch and loin which ensured their maximum flavour and meltingly soft texture.

Heartier additions were afforded by a flavoursome faggot of the offal and offcuts and a tasty “Hunter’s pie” of venison mince topped with golden piped mashed potato. Charred Brussel sprouts gave a mild smokiness offset of the sweetness of parsnip stuffed with blackberry compote and fennel pollen, while everything was bought together by lip-smacking red wine sauce flavoured with juniper. The meticulous attention to detail, the clean presentation and the generous portions added to the success of this memorable dish.  After the heights reached by the savoury courses, the anti-climax of desserts, so often a disappointment even in high-end restaurants, did not occur: the same refined skill, care and attention were evident throughout.

A blackberry tart of superfine, crisp pastry encased the poached fruit, salted crushed almonds and a vanilla cream topped with an intense quenelle of smooth blackberry sorbet. The combination of contrasting textures, flavours and temperatures demonstrated the consummate skill of the pastry section.

Equally accomplished was the warm wild damson soufflé. For this much-underrated autumn fruit with its sweet and sour taste, a souffle was a perfect vehicle to demonstrate its versatility. Soft and fluffy in the middle and well risen, it was topped, amazingly, with a disc of shortbread which did not cause it to deflate. Bay leaf ice cream, with its subtle, slightly floral flavour and silky texture, was a well-chosen accompaniment.

Mini doughnuts and good coffee completed an outstanding meal, one enhanced by the seamless, knowledgeable service of Christian who waited at my table.

Having opened after lockdown, with all the problems associated with suppliers, the restaurant is making progress in achieving consistency of product, so vital for success. Clearly, in Gavin Edney, it has a chef of distinction who will see it go from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return to The Elder and will follow its progress with interest.

Housed in a beautiful Victorian building at The Shore in Leith, Heron has, perhaps, the most enviable location of all the plethora of eateries there.  On a prominent slope, at the junction of Henderson Street and Sandport Place, it overlooks the Water of Leith, with views down to the old docks.

As restaurant manager Glen commented, developments in Leith continue to have real momentum with the openings of distilleries, bakeries, wine and cocktail bars alongside the Michelin starred and other fine restaurants. The projected arrival of the tramline by 2023 will attract even more interest in the area.

Originally conceived in January and opened at breakneck speed in July 2021, it is the first joint restaurant venture of chefs Tomas Gormley and Sam Yorke. The minimalist interior has an uncluttered look with stripped pine floors, pine effect tables and Venetian blinds. The high ceiling in Japanese seaweed, grey walls, and pendant lighting are attractive but indicate a work in progress. Their Tables are arranged on two levels and there is a large concrete bar.

A mixed clientele includes the young, curious locals, those who were clients of Bad Seeds, the chefs’ home dining venture in the lockdown, and industry friends from other restaurants and hotels.

The restaurant aims to serve “farm to table” dishes with ingredients sourced from well known local suppliers. These include Grieson Organic, Phantassie Organic Farm and The Free Company

Both classical and contemporary methods are used in the kitchen, reflecting the relative experience of the two young, yet highly trained chefs. Meat, game and fish dishes are accurately timed both in cooking and resting, maximising their flavour and texture. Dishes look simple in their clean and often beautiful presentation but are often multi-layered and complex. Ingredients are judiciously combined, being balanced in their tastes, textures and temperatures. Invention is moderated by a shrewd gastronomic sense, leading to surprising yet enjoyable results.

Prices compare favourably with similar establishments being fair and realistic given the quality of the ingredients and the skill in cooking.  On a late summer menu, four starters were priced from £9 to £15; four mains from £20 to £34; and three desserts, all at £9. The limited choice allows the current two chefs to focus on producing every plate to perfection.

The menu changes every few weeks and reflects the best seasonal produce. In the current fashion, descriptions merely list the main ingredients of each dish with no indication of cooking methods. However, the front of house staff team is well informed and have no difficulty answering guests’ questions.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in late September and found much to admire in the food, wine, service and ambience.

An amuse-bouche of two Lindisfarne oysters, their essential briny taste enlivened by a dressing of smoky but not overwhelming Mescal, spicy oregano giving a peppery heat, and a drizzle of gazpacho and lime for sweetness and acidity.

Another amuse comprised a generous bowl of three types of East Coast charcuterie: rich robust saucisson sec, aged and dry salami Picante, and a fragrant Tartufo with truffle and porcini.

Whipped butter with brown crab meat accompanied a small sourdough loaf with a crisp crust and tangy crumb.

A starter of mackerel cured in rice wine and Mirin delighted in its lively freshness. This oily fish was balanced by compressed apple cubes and apple sorbet giving sweetness and acidity, and horseradish cream and wasabi crumb giving a background heat. In colours of silver, green and white, this was a brilliantly conceived and visually stunning dish.Wine: Riesling Federspiel, Weingut Prager, 2017

Another starter of veal sweetbreads was accurately pan roasted to produce a caramelised crust and soft, creamy flesh. Garnished with wood sorrel, these delectable morsels of offal rested on a bed of earthy, silky-smooth celeriac puree.  Garnished with girolle mushrooms the dish was finished with an intense veal jus. This rich, luxurious, almost decadent dish, classically executed, has proved extremely popular. Wine: St Joseph Blanc, Selection d J S Chase, 2014

Our two main courses came with side dishes

Classical cooking was also evident in the first main course. A flavoursome sirloin steak was cooked medium rare and dressed in a deep, glossy Bordelaise sauce. Cubes of bone marrow and Parmesan cubes added richness and a moderate salty crunch. An innovative carrot dauphinoise was also topped with the same crumb. Freshness and a foil the richness was given by a side salad of Isle of Wight tomatoes, basil oil and red onion. Wine: Saintayme St Emilion, Grand Cru 2014

A breast of partridge was precisely cooked and rested to optimise its moist flesh and mild gamey flavour. Topped with pumpkin seed and sage crumb to give texture, and stuffed with its leg meat, foie gras, oats and smoked raisins to give an added surprise, this complex dish was dressed with a smooth, sweet pumpkin puree and a piquant Barberry sauce. Served on the side was a freshly baked brioche stuffed with a parfait of the bird’s liver and topped with pancetta and thyme. This tour de force of game cookery impressed on all fronts: the initial concept; the timing and attention to detail; and the simple, clean presentation of a complex, multi layered dish.  Wine: Savigny Les Beaune Premier Cru, Domaine Savigny 2008

Desserts, often the Achilles Heel of fine dining establishments, did not disappoint in maintaining the high standards of conception and execution.

An impressive autumnal dish showcased the humble damson in three ways:  a light creamy glazed cheesecake; a velvety smooth and intensely flavoured sorbet on crushed shortcake; and a damson gel.

Equally accomplished was the chocolate delice: a mousse of dark chocolate came with a peanut financier, caramel jelly, topped with an exemplary peanut brittle and a quenelle of silky buttermilk sorbet, the gentle sourness of which balanced the richness of the sweeter elements.

Good coffee ended a memorable meal, one enhanced by the welcoming, seamless service under the direction of restaurant manager Glen Montgomery, whose distinguished CV includes Restaurant Andrew Fairlie and the Balmoral Hotel. With a career also as a sommelier, he was able to match wines to dishes with consummate ease as well as describing the wine and dishes in meticulous detail. His professional yet unstuffy approach contributed to the relaxed ambience room of the dining room.

Fine Dining Guide had an opportunity to speak to the chefs. Both have impressive pedigrees: Tomas Gormley (26) was head chef at The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage, after working at Edinburgh’s 21212 and Le Roi Fou, and before that Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles; Sam Yorke (23) worked under chef Dominic Jack at the now closed Castle Terrace Restaurant, then transferred to Tom Kitchin’s Bonnie Badger in Gullane.

Describe the journey from ‘Bad Seeds’ lockdown fine dining takeaway to Heron

Their first meeting to discuss the idea was on January 8^th. They continued with Bed Seeds until 8^th March, then work on the Heron site progressed from March to July. With the help of those of Sam’s family, who were in the relevant trades, Heron opened on 15^th July. The pace was clearly fast, with further developments in store. With a current capacity of 40 covers, there are plans for dining in the lower area and casual dining at the bar, increasing the number to 50.  The arrival of a third chef in the last two weeks will facilitate this and help extend and fine tune the offering. Both chefs commented on how well their restaurant has been received, adding there is room for all types of eateries to co-exist happily in the area.

How do you combine use of artisan suppliers and organic producers with fine dining consistency?

Failures by suppliers could neither be predicted nor planned for. Fortunately, most of their suppliers have been reliable. As they try to change or adapt the menu frequently, continued dependence on the same suppliers does not happen. There have been no major problems since opening.

Do you have any signature dishes?

The sweetbread with celeriac puree starter has been on the menu since opening so could be considered a signature dish. Of the main courses, lobster tail with ginger and chilli ravioli, now off the menu, was also popular. Currently, the partridge dish has proved a winner.

As joint chefs, how are any differences in approach or concept reconciled?

As joint chefs it may take some time to settle on a dish. However, they tend to agree on most things but like to bounce ideas off each other. 

What can you take from your relative backgrounds?

Both spent lot of time in classical French led kitchens as reflected in their current repertoire. Sam worked under a head chef who was more strictly classical, old school with discipline, structure and organisation. In similar fashion, Tomas devleoped his skills with Andrew Fairlie, while considering himself as more experimental.

What is your view of social media?

Tomas is the expert here. The coverage has been most encouraging so far.

What is your ultimate ideal for this restaurant?

The aim is to busy every night!

Aurora at 187 Great Junction Street is not in the fashionable part of Leith but on a busy main road lined with small shops and eateries of all kinds. It does not have a waterfront view. It is certainly not the place where you would expect to come across a fine dining restaurant. Its frontage is easily missable and a peek through the window would reveal a narrow, high ceilinged room with minimal decoration and lighting.

And yet Aurora is making waves in the crowded Edinburgh restaurant scene, serving a seven-course tasting menu that could compete with its more established rivals. It has attracted both regular locals and those making a special trip.

This 18-cover restaurant has stripped pine floors and undressed pine tables lit by bulkhead lighting. Wine racks on high shelving are illuminated by spotlights. A few abstract prints decorate the blue walls and succulent plants line the front window sill. Clearly, with the unremarkable décor, furniture and fittings, the focus is all on the food. And what food it is! But first some background on the chef-patron…

Now aged 33, Kamil Witek’s culinary background is far from typical of most chefs. Indeed, he became a chef by accident. In Poland, he entered university with the ultimate aim of becoming an actor. Having realised this may not be the most stable and lucrative profession he turned to the chef world.

As a youngster, Kamil visited Edinburgh and was originally impressed by its lively and colourful culture, especially during the festival, when the city reminded him of his home in Krakow. He moved permanently to Edinburgh seven years ago, first as senior sous chef at The Apartment, then as sous and head chef at Salt Café in Morningside. There he acquired new skills and was given complete freedom to develop the menu, making a name for himself as a promising high-end chef. He eventually decided to open Aurora as a small all-day dining café four years ago.  While this concept only took off at weekends, the monthly evening tasting menu proved very popular, so the menu slowly switched to tasting only.  During lockdowns, popular takeaways and weekend-ready meals paid the bills, outside of that the new tasting concept was operating six months prior to the first lockdown, six months between lockdowns, and during the last three months. Business has been good, so while success is always a relative measure, so far so good.

By his own admission, it is difficult to describe his style of cooking. It is certainly “modern and global”, taking inspiration from different art and cultures, so through his tasting menu he likes to take his guests on a “global journey.” Kamil treats his team of six, three in the kitchen and three front of house, as a family, having worked with some of them in Krakow and at Salt. 

The tasting menu changes four times a year with the seasons. Aurora has been lucky in retaining many of its original customers who have remained loyal through its various changes. As the tasting menu has choices in five of its courses, customers can return to enjoy the same menu but choosing different items. Foodies are coming from greater distances but the core of his clientele remains those who came for breakfast four years ago.

When asked to name a signature dish, Kamil considers campfire potatoes, charred on the outside and soft inside, which proved popular for seven years at Salt and Aurora.  His smoked butter uses the same idea of the scout campfire aroma.

When considering the sampled food offering, it is bold in conception and accomplished in execution, displaying precision in cooking, employing a variety of techniques both classic and contemporary. Meat and fish cookery is accurately timed, enabling their true flavours to shine. Saucing is a particular strength, judiciously applied to highlight the main ingredient.  Influences are international but combinations of ingredients are always harmonious, with balance in tastes, textures and temperatures. Equal care is given to vegetarian options, with a variety of popular and less well-known produce being used. Attention to detail is meticulous. The plating is clean, the presentation is beautiful and portions are generous.

Pricing of the seven-course menu at £52, which includes an amuse bouche and petit fours, is a steal for cooking of this skill using top-notch ingredients. The ubiquitous listing of ingredients for each dish, with no indication of cooking methods, is also evident here.

The wine list is mainly Old World with ungreedy markups.  A flight of matching wines is £48, More interesting is the non-alcoholic matching selection priced at £30 created by manager /sommelier Cezar. The use of herbal essences, botanicals, non-alcoholic bitters, kombucha, vermouth, homemade lemongrass lemonade, calamansi, and lapsang souchong tea all featured in the flight we chose.

Fine Dining Guide visited Aurora on a weekday evening in September and was overwhelmed by the brilliance of the seven-course summer tasting menu.

A stunning amuse bouche featured a deep-fried potato flour parcel encasing fried egg yolk and topped with truffle shavings. This heavenly combination of crisp pastry, warm liquid centre and the heady fragrance of the luxurious fungus, to be consumed in one mouthful to avoid a mess, proved an original, opener.

A warm sourdough loaf was partnered with potato skin butter smoked under a cloche.

For the second course, a well-seasoned, sweet tomatillo gazpacho and refreshing cucumber sorbet with smoked almonds was enveloped by a cloud of cucumber foam which needed more umph to elevate the dish. It proved to be a minor flaw in the whole menu.

On the second course, a “Butterfly Salad” included radicchio and Chinese leaves, blanched to reduce their bitterness; cherry tomatoes, toasted pine nuts and cannellini beans; and six plant-based sauces including red wine balsamic, herb olive oil and beetroot jus. This colourful plate had soft and crisp textures with well-balanced dressings.

As an alternative on the second course, a plump scallop was seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft, sweet flesh. Toasted rice flakes gave a contrasting texture while passion fruit puree, wasabi aioli and dried shrimp paste added sharpness, a gentle heat and an umami note.

The third course featured an accurately timed pan-fried fillet of cod, resulting in delicate, moist and translucent white flakes of fish. It was served with a herbaceous plankton sauce, pickled daikon for contrasting texture and lemon oil and yuzu pearls for acidity. This dish fully demonstrated the versatility of the chef using classic and molecular cookery.

The fourth course comprised alternative pasta dishes.

The wild mushroom open raviolo was a cornucopia of fragrant fungi. Layered above the silky pasta were artichoke cream, sauteed morels, chanterelles and shavings of summer black truffles. A sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts finished this earthy, aromatic dish of contrasting tastes and textures.

Zlikrofi, a Slovenian raviolo, was different in tone and shape and thicker than Italian pasta. Stuffed with potato and guanciale pork, and topped with Italian Montasio cheese, parsley sauce, fermented garlic powder, and powdered grisinii sticks, this was a more robust, hearty alternative to the open ravioli.

For the fifth course, we both chose the suckling pig. It had been cooked sous vide for 24 hours, pulled and crisped up. This tender, flavoursome porcine treat simply melted in the mouth. It worked well with the three accompanying sauces: a rich chicken jus, a sweet pineapple puree and punchy tiger milk of fish paste, chilli and lime. Potato glass chips, charred spring onions, and purple heritage carrot added crisp texture and a gentle smokiness to this original and accomplished dish.

A pre-dessert of beer foam and a tangy lemon gel satisfyingly refreshed the palate

Desserts showed the same degree of invention and flair as the preceding dishes.

A pear poached in rhubarb and elderflower Edinburgh gin had a soft, yielding texture and pronounced flavour. It was partnered with a velvety smooth quenelle of fennel and ginger ice cream and was topped with honey tuile, providing a light, crisp garnish.

Equally delicious was the light but rich dark chocolate mousse with tonka bean. Partnered with mixed berry ice cream, both were encased with crisp meringue shards flavoured with garum masala. This whole dessert proved to be an inspired combination of different textures and temperatures, with a sweet, sharp and mildly spicy flavour.

Excellent petit fours of passion fruit marshmallows, pistachio macaroons and chocolate truffles completed a memorable meal, one enhanced by the welcoming, efficient and unobtrusive service of Marta and Cezar who explained the drink pairings he had created with enthusiasm.

Kamil Witek has clearly made the right decision in only offering a tasting menu. From a business perspective, it is the most efficient and least wasteful form of fine dining catering. More importantly, it allows him to demonstrate his creative genius and refined skills with assured consistency.  He hopes to someday expand to a bigger site in Leith, prior to lockdown he had half an eye on the new Little Chartroom site. Should the opportunity arise again, he wants to stay in Leith, where the most vibrant, growing and interesting part of the city offers the most significant opportunities. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return to sample another seasonal menu at Aurora and will follow its progress with interest.

Noizé is named after a village in the Loire valley where, at an early age, proprietor Mathieu Germond absorbed the rustic and convivial atmosphere of food and wine from his grandparents. These essential features characterise his restaurant which opened in October 2017.   Having decided at the age of 13 to follow a career in hospitality, Mathieu was well travelled by the time he came to London and to the gastronomic heights of then Michelin two-starred The Captial Hotel under Eric Chavot.  However, most London dining foodies are familiar with Mathieu as the long-serving front of house leader of Pied a Terre, a restaurant where he skillfully developed bonds with the clientele that would survive the test of time.  His understated manner, belies an effortless charm and passion, together with an enthusiasm for wine and service, that set him apart as one of the leaders in his field. Now Mathieu takes pride in the relaxed informality of Noizé, reviving the joys of an a la carte menu devoid of canapes, amuses–bouche and pre desserts.

The wine list, leaning on Mathieu’s extensive knowledge and experience, is hugely impressive. It features the best of both worlds, with over 50 labels under £50 but also comprises a wine connoisseur’s paradise, as the mark up is fixed cost plus, so the better the wine, the better the value to the point where some are below retail price for the vintage offered. This is a steal in London terms. It is hardly surprising that wine lovers and those in the trade are frequent visitors to the restaurant.

Chef George Farrugia, who has been at the helm for just six weeks, has injected new vitality into the kitchen. Rejecting law as a career after graduating in the subject, his first experience of a professional kitchen was in a Greek restaurant in Manchester, where he grew up. He progressed to Koffmann’s at the Berkeley Hotel where he gained his classical training. When Eric Chavot set up his eponymous brasserie in Covent Garden, George was part of the team that helped it gain a Michelin star. He stayed there for four years as sous chef, consolidating his skills before moving on to leading positions at the Chelsea Arts Club and then Bob Bob Ricard. His role immediately before arriving at Noizé was at Fenchurch Sky Garden where his own style was allowed to blossom.

Fine Dining Guide visited Noizé on a weekday evening in September, meeting its owner and chef, and finding much to admire in its ambience, food, wine, and service.

Located on the corner of Whitfield Street and Scala Street, in a site once occupied by Oliver Dabbous’ eponymous restaurant, the severe grey industrial chic of the two-level wooden-floored interior has been toned down. Turquoise walls, red and grey velvet upholstery, and linen tablecloths give a more refined feel. Well-spaced tables are lit by opaque globes. The basement level, including a table for six in a recess that can be curtained off, has a slightly more relaxed quality than the smaller ground floor level. Overall, however, the ambience is informal with a reassuring buzz from contented diners.

George Farrugia leads a brigade of three full and one part-timer, two of whom followed him from Sky Kitchen. Given his Cypriot roots and the influence of his French wife, Mediterranean flavours emerge from dishes using seasonal British ingredients. A northern influence, such as black pudding and the use of deeply flavoured jus, is also evident in some dishes. All his was demonstrated in his appearance on the 2020 series of The Great British Menu, which highlighted his status as a rising star.

Cooking techniques are both classical and contemporary. Poaching to order, pickling, curing and pan frying are much in evidence. The timing of meat, offal and fish dishes is precise, allowing their true flavours to shine. Saucing is judicious in quantity, never overwhelming the main ingredient. Dishes are well balanced in terms of tastes, textures and temperatures. Ingredient combinations are harmonious, and presentation is clean, avoiding the urge to overdress the plate.

A blackboard menu emphasises the casual and rustic nature of the restaurant’s offering. Portions are generous in the French brasserie tradition and pricing is realistic without being greedy. Compared with similar establishments in the West End, Noizé is a relative bargain which helps to explain its success.

Four Snacks at £5 each are offered. The three sampled proved deliciously moreish, but our appetites were constrained by the thought of three courses to follow:

Gougeres had light, crisp choux pastry and a flavoursome oozing cheese filling.

Soft, boneless chicken wings, glazed in a piquant BBQ sauce, came perched on celeriac remoulade

Succulent veal and gently spiced harissa croquettes made the most of braised and shredded offcuts which were coated in a crisp crumb and deep-fried.

Five Starters ranging from £9.50 to £13 offered a good range of choice, showing the versatility of the kitchen

Beef carpaccio, pre-cured like Bresola, proved a taste and textural delight. Delicately seasoned so as not to overwhelm the meltingly thin sliced meat, the dish was dressed with gently pickled Enoki mushrooms, shreds of toasted sourdough and a sprinkling of hazelnuts for contrasting texture, and dotted with truffle aioli as a final flourish.

A generous portion of confit salmon simply melted in the mouth. Its softness was balanced by crisp squid ink tuiles. Soft boiled quail’s egg and potato salad added richness while pickled fennel and horseradish sauce gave the astringency the dish needed.

A special of veal sweetbread more than justified its price supplement. Coated in a blackened spice rub, this delectable prized piece of offal was accurately seared to produce a caramelised crust, whilst retaining its rich flavour and creamy texture. Baby leek and caramelised apple were appropriate garnishes, the dish being brought together by a sauce of confit onion, crisped sweetbread membrane, madeira, veal and chicken stock, with grain mustard being added at the end for a floral punch. Unashamedly rich, this dish was made even more decadent by an accompanying bowl of silky smooth pomme puree.

Five Mains from £19 to £26 were offered.

As with the starters, dishes look deceptively simple but involve a series of techniques and stages.

 A breast of pre poached Guinea fowl had been rested then pan roasted to order. Topped with dehydrated quinoa which had been blanched, dried and fried, it produced a crisp coating that balanced the succulent, moist flesh. Potato and black pudding terrine, wild mushrooms, spinach and Jerusalem artichoke provided earthy, bold flavours to enhance the mild, delicate flavour of the bird.  A light jus completed this dish perfectly.

A fillet of halibut was poached to order to avoid overcooking and to retain its smooth, delicate piscine texture and mild, sweet taste.  White coco beans provided substance with contrasting texture and earthy flavour, the dish being bought together by a complex broth of mussels, Datterini tomato and vegetable pesto.

A special main course of pigeon featured precisely timed breasts to maximise flavour and texture, preventing them from becoming an experience more akin to liver. Accompanied by its soft confit leg, beetroot puree, potato cake and a rich jus, this was classic cooking at its best.

Five Desserts were priced from £8.50 to £12.50. There are also various cheese options.

A signature dish of ultra-creamy rice pudding featured delicate poached pear and, for contrasting texture and flavour, puffed black rice. This dish also reflects George’s northern roots.

Rum baba was classically rendered, its savarin base being light and generously infused with rum syrup. Pineapple carpaccio gave a textural sweetness and Chantilly a creamy richness.

Chocolate de Crème comprised layers of bittersweet ganache, pistachio crumb and a deeply flavoured pistachio ice cream sprinkled with crystalised pistachios. This rich, indulgent dessert successfully married contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures.

Good coffee and truffles ended an enjoyable meal, enhanced by the seamless, informative and unobtrusive service of waitress Severine and sommelier Phillipe.

Clearly, George Farrugia has made an impressive start, confirming Noizé’s place as a worthy contender in a highly competitive field. Short of another lockdown, the restaurant will go from strength to strength, justifying its already solid reputation for good food, wine and service. Fine Dining Guide will return to sample other dishes and will follow its fortunes with interest.