Author Archive

Restaurant Review: Cornus, Belgravia (August 2024)

Posted on: August 28th, 2024 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

David O’Connor and Joe Mercer-Nairne, owners of Medlar, for 15 years the acclaimed restaurant in Chelsea, have opened their second restaurant, Cornus, at 27c Eccleston Place, Belgravia. It is Located on the top floor of the Ice Factory, a repurposed warehouse in a corner of Ecclestone Yards precinct.

Reached through an imposing entrance and its own lift, the “L” shaped dining room is bright and airy. Well-spaced round tables with comfortable designer chairs line the side walls while a line of smaller square ones with banquette seating occupy the middle, giving a capacity of 75+ covers. There is also a private dining room seating 18 to 20 guests.  A long marble bar with a quadruple arched drinks display is a major feature, its rounded curves soften the sharp horizontal and vertical lines which dominate the room. The colour scheme – a “mid-century modern palette” – allows everything to work harmoniously, such as the dark of the wood merging into the lush of the velvet curtains. The hanging artwork will reflect the varied colours of the dogwood plant, the non- botanical name for Cornus.

In an otherwise elegant restrained design, the steel air conditioning units and ducts provide an element of industrial chic. Above each unit the vertical glazing of the sawtooth roof provides ample natural light throughout. This is supplemented by well-directed spotlights, feature lights over the bar, and discreet wall lighting. At night, the twinkling lights of the capital’s skyline enter through the large windows.

In future developments, the terrace will also enable al fresco dining and there is potential for a conservatory extension.

Leading the kitchen brigade of eight is executive chef Gary Foulkes. With an impressive CV of over 20 years cooking in Michelin starred restaurants, including a head chef position under Phil Howard at The Square, he finally gained and maintained his own star at Angler restaurant in The City.

Gary’s finely tuned cooking is based on French classical skills partnered by imagination and flair both in the combination of ingredients and cooking methods. Witness, for instance, cod with Scottish girolles, squid and bacon or or tomatoes dressed in cherry juice.

No compromise has been made on the provenance of top quality, largely seasonal ingredients. Scottish langoustines, Devon crab, Loch Duart salmon, native lobster, Landes chicken, Alsace bacon and even N25 Oscietra caviar all feature on the current menu. The use of Hubert Lacoste’s tomatoes, Black Australian truffles, Romero peppers, English raspberries, Amalfi lemons and Sicilian pistachios reflect a similar approach to plant-based produce. Some oriental influences are seen in the use of wasabi, Haas avocado, shiso, fig leaf and finger limes.

The visual simplicity of dishes belies their complexity of conception, the labour intensity of execution, and restraint in the immaculate presentation. Precise cooking and resting of meat and fish dishes maximise their inherent flavour while balance in taste and texture is achieved by complementary garnishes, intense purees and light sauces. Nevertheless, plates are uncluttered, with clean presentation allowing the star of the dish to shine.  Vegetarian options are treated with equal care and respect.

A three-course menu with just five options in each course – not including a Cote de Beouf sharing dish – allows the kitchen to deliver at a consistently high level. There is a slight emphasis on shellfish and fish. Prices are realistic given the superb quality of the ingredients, the expertise in transforming them into exquisite cuisine, and the comfort of the newly designed restaurant in a central London location, not to mention the seamless, engaging hospitality for which David O’Connor is renowned. They also compare favourably with similar high end restaurants boasting Michelin starred chefs.

Meals begin with a crisp gougere filled with a strong cheese fondue topped with an ethereal parmesan chiffonade. This amuse-bouche excited the palate without stealing the thunder of the dishes to follow. Sourdough and focaccia bread were both well-crafted.

An outstanding starter featured soft, hand rolled spaghetti topped with a trio of lobster slices and a generous quenelle of N25 Oscietra caviar. It was dressed with a reduced bisque enhanced with lobster coral. The succulence of the crustacean, the umami hit of top-grade caviar – both lifted by the gentle freshness of Amalfi lemon – and the rich viscosity of the bisque made this a sensational tour de force of cookery.

A visually stunning dish of handpicked Devon crab showed the meticulous attention to detail for which the chef is renown. The sweet and slightly briny crab meat was blended with a judicious amount of wasabi foam which enhanced the delicate white flesh. Piped drops of Haas avocado added a contrasting subtle creaminess, while the harmonious combination was lifted by a gel of finger lime decorated with their leaves. This light shellfish starter delighted in its clean, vibrant freshness.

A third starter of Loch Duart Salmon tartare saw the well-seasoned, utterly fresh fish bound by a light oyster cream. The richness was balanced by the gentle acidity of green apple batons and the herbaceous astringency of shiso.

A lightly dressed warm salad of artichokes and summer beans was accurately timed to retain their crisp textures and earthy flavours. Breaded soft yoke quail’s eggs added a skilful contrasting element while the whole dish was finished with a generous scattering of headily fragrant shaved black Australian truffle.

The two fish main courses demonstrated accurate timing in their pan roasting and resting to produce a golden seared crust and soft gleaming white flesh.

The mild taste and firm texture of Roast Wild Halibut allowed it to take on other bolder flavours as shown in the dressing of black olives, semi dried San Marzano tomatoes, parsley, shallots and lime. Lightly cooked ribbons of yellow courgette came as a swirl and in a cannelloni form stuffed with a flavoursome Baldo rice, tomato and herb filling.  Parsley puree added a powerful hit to this impressive combination of tastes and textures.

The delicate, buttery flakes of Roast Newlyn Cod testified to its utter freshness. Cauliflower puree added a smooth creaminess. The innovative trio of a persillade of Scottish girolles, seared line caught squid and Alsace bacon gave contrasting robust flavours to balance the gentle sweetness of the fish.

Perhaps the simplest yet the most successful main course showcased Arnaud Tauzin’s acclaimed free range, corn-fed Landes chicken. The well-seasoned roasted breast had burnished skin and firm, juicy full flavoured flesh. Plump, sweet Scottish langoustine tails complemented the savoury flavour of the poultry while sauteed girolles and corn puree added earthy notes and contrasting textures.  This combination was adorned with a generous scattering of Black Australian truffle, which made it even more luxurious, and finished with a light roast chicken sauce. This dish showed how expensive, top grade ingredients treated with respect and cooked simply can produce brilliant results.

A main course of Southdown lamb used juicy rump – one of the most flavoursome cuts – and lamb trimmings in a spicy kofte. Paired with sweet pepper piperade and seasoned with fried capers and olives, this accurately timed and judiciously balanced dish of strong tastes celebrated the true flavours of the Mediterranean.

Desserts also maintained the lofty standards of the savoury courses, revealing the refined skills of the pastry section.

A mille-feuille of English raspberries had beautifully crisp, perfectly laminated layers of buttery puff pastry sandwiched with rich lemon verbena cream and topped with raspberry coulis and a velvety smooth baked ice cream using baked raspberries which produce a richer, more rounded flavour.

A simpler, but no less accomplished dessert, was a slice of Amalfi lemon tart with crisp pate sucree and a soft, creamy filling with a deeply intense citrus tang. Silky Greek Yogurt ice cream complemented the tart perfectly.

A choice of Difference coffee, a speciality, and two cocktails – Expresso Martini and Clarified coffee Negroni are offered as post dinner drinks

Canapes of apricot and yoghurt macaroons, chocolate and pistachio amaretti, and hazelnut and clotted cream fudge were models of their kind, bringing a sweet conclusion to a highly satisfying meal.

Hospitality at Cornus begins with a welcoming and friendly greeting on arrival. This puts guests at their ease, the relaxed feel being reinforced by the cheerful non uniformed front of house staff. Knowledgeable advice is offered on food and wine. Melania Battison from Medlar has now returned as the engaging, passionate head sommelier, guiding diners through a serious wine list of Old and New World offerings. Attention at tables is efficient, can be anticipatory, but is never intrusive. All this makes for a most pleasant dining experience.

Cornus is an exciting addition to the highly competitive fine dining scene in central London. Given the extensive experience both in the front of house and in the kitchen, it deserves to be successful. Fine Dining Guide wishes David, Gary and their teams continued good fortune and will follow their progress with studied interest.

Restaurateur Interview: Carina Contini, Edinburgh (March 2024)

Posted on: March 30th, 2024 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Carina Contini has long been a stalwart of the Scottish hospitality industry. Her achievements as a cook, food and cookbook writer, food broadcaster, Food Ambassador and Food Personality have won accolades that crown her glittering career. As co-owner of three successful restaurants in Edinburgh, she continues to achieve excellence in a highly competitive market. Fine Dining Guide was fortunate enough to gain a short interview which focuses on this aspect of her work.

.

.

What inspired you to become a restaurateur?

Food is in her blood. Her grandfather, a rural farmer without land, escaped the poverty of post-First World War Italy by migrating to Scotland, (Cockenzie and Port Seton). He became successful in the ice cream, fish and chip shop and Italian delicatessen sector. This connection has continued through the generations into restaurants which she owns with her husband, Victor.

How do you decide if a venue will work?

Location is a vital aspect, but so is a brilliant, hard-working team which delivers good food and service consistently. Guests like to feel at home but also want to be excited by the offering. Each of her three restaurants achieves this in different ways.

Cannonball, at the top of the Royal Mile and adjacent to Edinburgh Castle, celebrates location and history.  In monthly changing menus, chef Tommy Crosby – who oversees the food in all three restaurants – demonstrates his classical skills and virtuosity in dishes using the finest produce.

Contini in George Street focuses more on Italian dishes which, as in Italy, have been adapted through the years. Nevertheless, classics such as spaghetti carbonara, executed in the traditional way, can still be enjoyed. All meat and fish are Scottish, whereas cheeses, oils and vegetables are imported from Italy.

The Scottish Café and Restaurant at the Scottish National Gallery, along Princes Street in the heart of the city, has a menu which showcases Scottish produce in dishes such as Cullen Skink. As a day venue it also offers afternoon tea

How do you account for the success of your restaurants?

Nothing is taken for granted as the whole team strives to do better. Our Training Academy helps staff retention which was problematic before Covid, but intensified with the epidemic. Given 120-160 employees across three restaurants, they have made use of external assessors to coach and mentor the front-of-house, kitchen and administration teams. Promising results have been seen in its mental and physical support. The programme, which allows staff to participate in as much as they as much as they wish, results in a healthy team which promotes a healthy business.

What is Victor’s role in your husband and wife team?

Victor, dubbed “Mr Culture” has pioneered the “Victor Handshake” in his focus on Front of House training. He is also the principal buyer from our Italian suppliers and oversees our one-acre kitchen garden two to four mornings a week. Besides growing staples such as parsley, kale, chard and rhubarb, honey from seven bee hives is harvested, sometimes twice a day.

What are your proudest achievements?

“We have survived after 20 years!” Admittedly, her three children, now 23,22 and 18, had to share in the pressures associated with the hospitality industry.

This year, she has paid off of the business loan and next year sees the end of repaying the Covid loan.

 What is your view of the Edinburgh dining scene?

The Edinburgh scene now is very dynamic, with many small independent restaurants opening.  Good values in hospitality are important to a discerning foodie public when making choices about where to eat. This keeps all of us on our toes in a fabulous city with a strong business community.

What are you aims for the future?

Victor’s replanting our herb garden which was lost during seven years’ redevelopment of the National Gallery site, is to be welcomed. We aim to pay off the Covid loan in 2025. More excitingly, since stabilising after Covid, we are looking for a new opening, something the whole team wants. The future is very positive.

Restaurant Review: Cannonball, Edinburgh (March 2024)

Posted on: March 30th, 2024 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Cannonball Restaurant and Bar, owned by the Contini family, is found in an imposing 17th Century house which still bears the cannonball lodged in its wall from which the restaurant takes its name. Located at the highest (western) end of the Royal Mile, it boasts spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle and city’s skyline.

.

.

The restaurant is found on the top floor, in what was once the art room of the school that had occupied the building. Tall windows, skylights, and dangling lamps provide ample lighting for this spacious, high-ceilinged room. A marble bar, wooden floors, cream-coloured walls and plain undressed tables help to create an informal, relaxed feel.

When full, the restaurant serves a maximum of 64 covers, with five front of house and a full brigade in the kitchen led by Tommy Crosby. His cooking combines classical skills with a contemporary outlook. Well-conceived imaginative dishes combine harmonious ingredients, showing balance in flavour, texture and temperature. The menu changes with the seasons, maximising the use of prime Scottish produce. The presentation of dishes is clean, with clear and concise descriptions given by the server. Prices are realistic given the high standard of cuisine and compare favourably with restaurants of a similar standard.  All these qualities were demonstrated in the monthly changing five-course tasting menu with paired wines.

.

To begin, an amuse bouche of haggis bonbon with creme fraiche and shaved pickled turnip excited the taste buds. A freshly baked poppy and pumpkin seed loaf with whipped butter had good flavour with its light, open-textured crumb and crisp crust.

The accompanying aperitif, “She sells sea shells”, featured Hendricks gin, Smokehead whisky, lemon juice and sugar, giving a judicious balance of salinity and sweetness.

.

.

An impressive first course of slowly cooked pork cheek was finished with a gastric glaze, enhancing its soft, porcine succulence.  Cavolo Nero and star anise white onion puree provided a spiced earthiness which balanced the sweet acidity of the gastric and saffron pickled pear. Crispy shallots gave a contrasting texture to the dish needed. Overall, this was a successful marriage of relatively humble ingredients elevated to fine dining level. Wine: 2020 McLaren vale Grenache, Willunga 100, Australia

.

.

Equally accomplished was a modern take on a classic dish of trout with almonds.  A generous fillet of citrus-cured rainbow trout was precisely timed to give crisp skin and mild, slightly sweet flesh flakes. A rich puree of caramelised almonds and cauliflower scattered with toasted almond flakes contrasted with the gentle onion flavour of wilted wild leeks.  To finish, rosemary oil gave an herbaceous but not overpowering lift to the whole dish. Wine: “Matrimonio”, Maturno Organic, I Ciacca, Pisinisco, Lazio

.

.

The main course of venison was a little less innovative than the two preceding courses but no less satisfying. The loin of red deer, encrusted with a juniper and parley crust, was accurately seared and rested to a medium rare pink, soft in texture and earthy in flavour. This was exemplary game cookery. The accompanying vegetables featured smoky charred shallot; herbal thyme rosti; sweet parsnip puree; verdantly fresh spring greens, and pickled red cabbage which gave a gentle acidity. All these worked well with the game, the dish being bought together by a deeply flavoured red wine sauce. Wine: 2020 Bodega Reserva Tannat, Maldonado, Uraguay

.

.

The cheese course comprised a wedge of creamy, silky Clava Brie, from the Scottish Highlands. Quince jelly and oatcakes added the necessary sweetness and contrasting granular, crisp texture which proved the ideal foil to the soft, rich quality of the cheese. Wine: Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port, Sandeman, Portugal

For dessert, apple parfait had a smooth iced texture and a pleasing balance of acidity and sweetness. Caramelised apple gave contrasting texture and a gentle bitterness, while thyme cream, and sable crumb spiced with mace gave herbal and warming spice notes that worked well with the fruit.  Wine: Domaine Laguillon, Jurancon Doux, France

Good coffee ended a memorable meal, one enhanced by the warm welcome and the seamless, anticipatory service. Indeed, Peter, who looked after the table, introduced the food and wine with impressive knowledge and genuine enthusiasm.

Overall, Cannonball has demonstrated the high level of cooking and hospitality that gained it the accolades achieved when it first opened in 2014. It continues to attract discerning foodies both local and those from further afield. Fine Dining Guide hopes to revisit to sample the a la carte menu and will follow its fortunes with interest.

Restaurant Review: KORA, Edinburgh (March 2024)

Posted on: March 30th, 2024 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

KORA in Bruntsfield is the latest of Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s restaurants in Edinburgh. It has arisen Phoenix-like from the ashes of Southside Scran, their popular brasserie which was forced to close due to major plumbing problems, not of its own making, then crucially by the Covid epidemic. 

Named after the Greek Goddess of Spring and new beginnings, KORA’s design has a more Nordic feel with its wooden floors, exposed brickwork, and pastel green walls. Nevertheless, it retains some of the features of its predecessor – the split-level areas, the brass rails and screens, and the cosy dining booths.

True to Tom’s “Nature-to-plate” mantra, seasonal Scottish produce is employed in a wide range of inventive, reworked classic a la carte and weekend brunch dishes. Menu descriptions emphasise the provenance of key ingredients. Pricing is competitive, even more so given the impeccable quality of the produce and the skill in cooking.

11 Bar snacks from £3.50 to £8 feature pork scratchings from Tomlinson’s farm with rhubarb puree, pork rillettes, oysters, and even Caviar for £60!

Seven starters from £9.50 to £23 include Hand dived Orkney scallops a la Grenobloise or warm pressed haggis terrine with neeps and tatties

Eight mains, £18- to £33, comprise three vegetarian dishes, two fish and three meat options These range from roasted cauliflower steak, through to Newhaven seasonal fish and shellfish soup and braised Highland Wagyu shin with KORA Caesar salad

Six Brunch items from £7.50 to £18 include Omelette Arnold Bennett with Welch’s smoked haddock, and Mull Cheddar Welsh rarebit, both served with Koffmann’s skinny fries.

.

.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Friday lunchtime to sample dishes from the a la carte and brunch menus. A vividly coloured frozen sea buckthorn margarita cocktail proved wonderfully refreshing in its fruity tartness.

.

.

From the bar snack selection, tender florets of broccoli tempura had an ethereally light, translucent batter with a well- balanced spicy Asian dip.

A main course of Castle game Sika deer was a masterclass in game and pastry cooking. A delicate, burnished dome of light buttery puff pastry – with no soggy bottom! –  was crammed with tender, flavoursome braised shoulder and leg meat.  Alongside were two precisely timed and rested pink slices of roasted loin, succulent in flavour and almost melting in texture. Garnished with Free Company beetroot which added the required earthy note, and brought together by a rich red wine jus, this was accomplished cooking of the highest order.

.

.

A simple, yet truly indulgent dessert comprised warm, light and fluffy mini doughnuts with separate pots of chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream. Service was welcoming and informative, a feature of all of Tom Kitchin’s restaurants. Hastyn who looked after my table was particularly helpful in guiding my choices. Given more time, more dishes would have been sampled, but that will be for a future visit to which we look forward.

.

Restaurant Review: Hillfield, Chef Adam Fisher, Pennyhill Park Hotel (May 2023)

Posted on: May 28th, 2023 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood
Adam Fisher

[Chef Adam Fisher]

Hillfield Restaurant at Pennyhill Park, Bagshot is now in the capable hands of Chef Adam Fisher.  His diverse experience, ranging from the Ginger Fox in Brighton to the German Embassy in Belgravia, and most recently the Barn at Coworth Park, has amply prepared him for his current position.

He is now free to focus more on the fundamentals of seasonality, sustainability, “hyper-locality” and “farm to fork, nose to tail” in his cooking. With the ultimate aim of gaining a Michelin Green Star, produce from the Pennyhill Park estate, Surrey Hills, and the extensive kitchen garden will greatly assist in the drive to lower the restaurant’s carbon footprint. Indeed, the aim is to source most of its products, including foraged items, from a 25-mile radius. The provenance of the main ingredients, such as Windsor Great Park rabbit or Haverstock Park buffalo mozzarella, is proudly acknowledged on the menu.

Firmly grounded in the techniques of classical cuisine, Adam Fisher’s tasty dishes are often playful and imaginative yet can be complex in their preparation. The precise timing of meat and fish, the balance of flavours and textures in harmonious combinations, and attention to detail are evident in abundance. The presentation is clean and precise, without superfluous garnishes. Many fine dining elements are present, although the chef modestly prefers to see his cuisine as a transition from classic brasserie style to touches of high gastronomy through accomplished restaurant cooking.

The à la carte menu offers a good range of starters, mains and desserts with realistic prices to reflect the excellent quality of the ingredients and the skills and creativity demonstrated in the kitchen.

A delightful tartlet of crisp, thin pastry, and sweet white crab meat garnished with caviar provided the perfect accompaniment to our aperitif.

Two starters showcased both classical and contemporary approaches to Adam’s cuisine.

A generous slice of a dense, three-layered terrine, featured the deep, smoky gentle saltiness of ham hock, the well-seasoned, moist, soft texture of Cotswold White chicken, and the unashamedly silky richness of duck liver, perfectly marinated using the Ritz recipe. Finished with chorizo jam which balanced the savoury elements, this was a highly accomplished dish

Equally appetising but more innovative was Adam’s signature dish – a savoury éclair. Crisp choux pastry was filled with sticky, slow-cooked beef short rib enriched with bone marrow. Truffle hollandaise added a creamy texture and contrasting flavour while pickled mushrooms gave the necessary acidic element which cut the dish’s overall richness. A generous shaving of truffle added a heady fragrance to this unapologetically decadent, truly creative offering.

A special offered also revealed an imaginative approach based on Bunny chow, the popular South African street food. Here, a crisp bread roll was hollowed out and filled with plump mussels, shallots, chives, garlic, sea vegetables and a little cream to bind them together. This flavoursome seafood dish showed how relatively humble ingredients could be elevated to high end satisfaction and standards.

Meat cookery continued the theme of skilful and thoughtful cooking.

A saddle of Muntjak deer was precisely cooked and rested to maximise the flavour of its fine-grained, lean meat. A faggot created from the leg meat provided a contrasting texture and richer flavour, while baby turnips, barbequed carrots and leeks with their own purees gave deep, earthy accompaniments. Finished with a lip-smacking barbeque sauce based on reduced veal jus, this dish was ideal for a game lover.

The neck of lamb, appropriately slow-roasted for this muscular cut, was strong and slightly gamey in its flavour. It worked well with the herbal notes of cooked lovage, and the robust qualities of beer-braised onion. A delicate celeriac gratin with its puree added to the earthiness of the garnishes and a punchy port jus brought all the elements together with a touch of sweetness. Too full to sample the desserts, which we would confidently expect to reach the same standards as the savoury courses, we reflected on how satisfying was the visit to Hillfield at Pennyhill Park. The experience was enhanced by the relaxed, spacious and comfortable dining room, the highly knowledgeable and unobtrusive service, and the opportunity to chat with Adam Fisher. We wish him well in his ambitions and will follow his career with interest.

Aizle, Edinburgh. Review & Profile Lewis Vimpany (April 2023)

Posted on: April 13th, 2023 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Lewis Vimpany, recently promoted to head chef by chef-patron Stuart Ralston, has enjoyed cooking from an early age.  However, like many, it would be a series of serendipitous events that led him down a successful career path. From college, Lewis went straight to Number One at the Balmoral Hotel. Under the inspirational leadership of head chef Billy Boyter and his deputy Brian Grigor, he cooked with the freshest and finest ingredients. This proved a pivotal moment in his career, cementing his passion for the industry with a determination to succeed at the highest level. Through these early experiences, Lewis was aware of his natural cooking creativity whilst he took on board as many classical and new cooking techniques as possible.

[Lewis Vimpany, Head Chef, Aizle Restaurant, Edinbirgh]

Lewis moved to Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles which offered greater order and structure, embedding Lewis more into the world of fine dining. With an almost military discipline, including changing chef whites twice a day, it set the standard expected at the two Michelin star level.

Lewis was to be reunited with Billy Boyter at the Cellar in Anstruther five months after its opening. The good working relationship and friendship already developed in Edinburgh, contributed to the restaurant achieving its first Michelin star.  

A desire to try something different and attracted by its gastronomic reputation, Lewis spent six months at the Vue de Monde in Melbourne. Under the direction of Shannon Bennett and Justin James, a fresh new world of produce and cuisine was unveiled.

Returning to Ireland at Aimsir, Lewis worked with local produce in a demanding kitchen. Indeed, sugar was the only imported foodstuff. Again, he was part of a team that achieved Michelin acclaim, this time two stars after just four and a half months.

Aizle

Having previously enjoyed eating at Aizle, Lewis joined the restaurant’s kitchen brigade as senior sous chef in October 2020 before being promoted to head chef in the last quarter of 2022.

The Front of House vibe reflects the relaxed atmosphere of the kitchen. Inclusivity for customers is encouraged by the lack of a dress code. Enjoyment of the dining experience by the mixed-aged clientele of business people, professionals, foodies and regulars is paramount. As only dinner is served, the brigade lacks the pressure of two daily services and can give greater attention to the evening. Pre-dinner tastings by Lewis and his sous chef, guarantee consistency of quality.

[Aizle Staff Picture December 2022]

Lewis’ cooking is unashamedly complex. Dishes are often labour intensive and multi-layered, an expression of his seemingly inexhaustible creativity. Not that his dishes are heavy, as a certain lightness of touch is evident throughout the menu. Balance of flavour and texture across the whole menu and in each dish are prominent features, reflecting harmonious combinations of ingredients – including foraged and fermented ones. The quality of produce is impeccable, with a Japanese influence also present in some dishes. Presentation, sometimes beautiful, on designer crockery of different materials is clean and artful without being contrived.

Pricing – £105 for the multi-course tasting menu – is realistic given the skills demonstrated, the quality of ingredients and the high standards of service.

A flight of matching wines is £75 with a soft drink pairing at £35. All these compare favourably with other restaurants of a similar level.

[Aizle: Ingredient List & Menu]

In line with the surprise aspect, guests are provided with an ingredient list with no indication of cooking methods before the meal. On leaving, they are given a “Menu” listing the main ingredients of each course but again no reference to cooking methods.

[Aizle: GM Rebekah and Head Chef Lewis Vimpany]

The seamless service, under the capable direction of General Manager Rebekah, is welcoming, extremely knowledgeable, and attentive without being obtrusive. This puts guests at their ease, enhancing the overall dining experience.

Kombucha, a fermented green tea with its herbal, refreshing qualities acted as a cleansing aperitif.

[Aizle Snacks]

Three “snacks” presented together demonstrated technical skill and meticulous attention to detail. A pickled beetroot tart topped with whipped tofu and XO sauce combined sour and sweet with rich umami flavours. The croustade of beef tartare with seaweed kataifi offered crisp and soft textures with succulent richness. The third offering, presented in a nest of cones and foliage, comprised a deeply flavoured light espuma of Isle of Mull cheddar combined with cream and mascarpone. The accompanying sweet potato crisps were too delicate to be dipped into the espuma, which had to be eaten separately with a spoon.

[Aizle crab]

The “First Amuse” featured a pannacotta of North sea crab, layered with wafer thin slices of pickled kohlrabi, garnished with sea purslane and spiked with lemon gel. A gently tangy yogurt foam enveloped this highly innovative dish with its gently sweet and sour flavours and creamy, light textures.

[Aizle Lamb Belly]

The “Second Amuse”, visually simple but complex in preparation and execution, elevated the humble lamb breast to unctuous, meltingly delicious heights.  The meat had been brined, pressed, slow cooked overnight at 70-80 degrees, pressed again and soya glazed until sticky. The garnishes of sunflower seed pesto and foraged herbs gave contrasting texture and floral flavour to the soft sweetness of the lamb. A cup of wild mushroom consommé, into which the diner was advised to stir the accompanying bouquet garni for a fragrant herbal hit, balanced the richness of the lamb

The “Bread” course featured a miniature Parker House loaf, glazed with forest

[Aizle Bread]

Honey. The brioche like texture of the sweet crumb was deftly partnered with soft butter cultured with koji. For greedy diners like myself, there might have been a little more of the delicious bread, if only to mop up the sauces of the following courses.

[Aizle Baron Bigod Cheese]

The “Starter” course featured silky smooth Baron Bigod cheese, in the traditional Brie de Meaux style but produced in Suffolk, whipped with Jerusalem artichoke, pickled shallots and decorated with edible flowers. Visually stunning, this surprisingly light dish combined soft creamy richness balanced by earthy flavours, sharp, crisp textures and delicate floral notes.

Aizle Shellfish

The multi layered “Fish” course involved a variety of complex processes. A Orkney hand dived scallop was perfectly timed on the barbecue to retain its sweet succulence. North Sea langoustines were treated with equal respect, both being partnered with a risotto of Koshihikari rice, crab bisque and topped with a crab sabayon and crispy leeks. Overall, this was another stunningly presented dish, perfectly balanced in textures and crustacean tastes.

Aizle Lamb Main

The “Main” course featured two cuts of Inverurie lamb. The saddle was accurately cooked and rested to a blushing pink. It was served with a charred little gem lettuce filled with ewe’s curd dressed with edible flowers, and a wild garlic emulsion. The richness of the meat was balanced by the freshness of the vegetable and herb combination. This part of the dish was brought together by a light sauce lamb jus, parsley and wild garlic. On the side, but of equal deliciousness, was a layered ramekin of slow cooked lamb shoulder, croutons, and broad bean espuma with potato, buttermilk and wild garlic. Overall, this dish was a tour de force of lamb cookery.

Aizle Cheese

The optional – and mercifully light – “Cheese” course comprised semi hard tete de moine, shaved to oxidise the cheese to release more flavour producing soft, wafer thin girolle like shapes. Truffle infused honey and seeded crackers provided suitable accompaniments.

Aizle Rhubarb

The technically accomplished “Pre” dessert comprised a rhubarb compote, a velvety smooth rhubarb sorbet, a custard “snow” made with liquid nitrogen, and crowned with a delicate sugar tuile.

[Aizle Chocolate]

The equally refined and spectacular “Dessert” of contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures, showcased a rich chocolate mousse with Pedro Ximenes gel together with silky miso ice cream, balancing sweet with a vibrant umami flavours. Delicate shards of caramelised baked milk skin, which mirrored the shape of the serving bowl, sheltered the iced desserts below. Both this, and the pre dessert, fully demonstrated the sophisticated skills of the pastry section of the kitchen.

For those who still had room, there were exquisite hand-made chocolate bon bons: Banana and miso, Yuzu and white chocolate, Ethiopian coffee bean, and Compass box whisky spiced caramel. These delectable morsels were models of their kind. Snappy peanut praline and intense raspberry and lemon thyme pate de fruit completed the mignardises offering.

Overall, this was a truly memorable meal, worthy of the accolades Aizle has already garnered. Often top of the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards for best fine dining restaurants across the UK, it has also won Best Fine Dining at the Edinburgh Restaurant Awards. More recently it has featured in Estrella Damm’s Top 100 list at this year’s National Restaurant Awards. Without doubt, the thoughtful, highly accomplished cooking at Aizle, using first rate ingredients and demonstrating skills and creativity at the highest level, deserves long overdue Michelin star recognition.  Fine Dining Guide wishes Lewis and his team every success and will follow their future progress with added interest.

Restaurant Review: Victoria, Oxshott

Posted on: July 1st, 2022 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Bray in Berkshire comes to Oxshott in Surrey in the form of the rejuvenated community dining pub, The Victoria. This is the first independent venture of Matt Larcombe, former Head Chef at Heston Blumenthal’s The Crown, and Simon King who was a senior operational manager for Heston’s Group.

Together they have modernised and extended The Victoria in this prosperous town in leafy Surrey. Inside, low beams, panelling, banquettes and an open fire in winter make for a comfortable, cosy experience. There is also a bar area for those who just come to drink. Outside, the spacious terraced garden seating is ideal for alfresco dining.

Chef Director Matt Larcombe’s extensive experience also includes working with acclaimed chefs such as Michael Wignall, Paul Kitching, Adam Wesley and Ashley Palmer-Watts. Their distilled influences, along with his own creativity, have resulted in an innovative cooking style that embraces both classical and contemporary techniques. Invention is moderated by a shrewd culinary acumen, resulting in well balanced, harmonious combinations. Menu descriptions are terse in the current fashion, listing the main ingredients with no indication of how they are cooked, often giving the diner a welcome surprise when the dish is presented.

Steaks from the grill, along with a special Bordelaise sauce have been a mainstay of the menu. Pub classics such as fish and triple cooked chips, which are retained all year round, are found alongside modern vegetarian options such as roasted cauliflower steak with torched corn and coriander salad. Fish features prominently, on the day we visited featured a sharing dish of Day boat plaice with beurre noisette, capers, cucumber and Jersey royals.

Prices are realistic for food at this level, given the impeccable quality of ingredients, more of which is being sourced locally, and the undoubted skill in cooking by a team of six. Covers are limited to a maximum of 65-70 to ensure  consistency and quality.

The a la carte menu features three “snacks”, £5 to £8; six starters, £9 to £17;

seven mains: £19 to £27; and three steaks from the charcoal grill, £ 23 to £125 for salt chamber tomahawk steak for two. Sides are £6-£7; and four desserts, £9 to £15 and a selection of British cheese at £13.

There is also a good value three course lunch, with options in each course.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy weekday lunch in mid-June. We chose dishes from the a la carte menu.

A good first impression was made by the Linseed sourdough, sourced from a small artisan bakery in Horsham. This is a good example of using personal /local contacts to ensure top quality produce. The bread had a good crust and great flavour, with creamery butter being cultured and hand churned.

A “snack” of deep-fried oysters encased in a light and crisp batter came with a dip of herby seaweed mayonnaise. The bivalve retained its essential creamy brininess under the delicate crust. A more traditional offering was the sweet and savoury classic of devils on horseback, featuring plump juicy pitted prunes wrapped in crisp salty bacon.

The preparation of the signature starter of mushroom parfait with sweet and sour onions revealed the creativity and labour intensity of this deeply flavoured, silky textured, dish. Humble button mushrooms are caramelised for an hour until completely dry and added to a reduction of port, brandy, shallots and garlic for the stock base, as with any classical recipe. More stock is chilled, frozen, defrosted then passed through muslin, the filtered juices producing an intense jelly, a process taking 24-48 hours. This gives extra richness to this essentially earthy dish, which is balanced by the sweetness and astringency of caramelised red onions. Visually stunning with its white frill of finely sliced mushrooms, the parfait was partnered with buttery toasted brioche. This dish, brilliant in conception and accomplished in execution, could become a modern classic.

Another attractively presented starter featured salt chamber aged beef tartare made with the more flavoursome sirloin, (rather than the usual fillet), cut larger for a firmer texture which was also helped by the rich fat. Precise seasoning, crucial in this dish, allowed the natural beefy flavour to shine, while creamy richness was provided by yolk from Burford brown eggs which had been steamed for 16 hours. Crispy onion rings – why haven’t chefs thought of this before? –  gave relief from the softer textures. Here was another classic starter taken to higher level by a few judicious adjustments.

Sous vide is an overused and sometimes inappropriate method for cooking. Here, however, it was successfully used to cook a main course of free-range chicken breast which retained its moist texture and delicate flavour. A crumble of bacon sauteed in butter gave contrasting texture and also acted as a seasoning. Pea puree and grilled gem lettuce added freshness to complement the savoury elements. Overall, this was a well balanced, cleanly presented dish, confirming the dictum that “less is more.”

A pan-fried fillet of seabream was perfectly timed to produce crisp skin and soft, moist flesh. A smooth, red pepper coulis and chargrilled spring onions worked in perfect harmony with their sweet and smoky flavours and contrasting textures. Squid came in two preparations:  chargrilled strips supporting the fish fillet, and deep-fried tentacles mixed with the accompanying heritage tomato salad. This elegant, summery dish was perfect for those who preferred a lighter main course.

Sides of triple cooked chips and purple sprouting broccoli tossed in toasted almond butter were deftly executed.

The pastry section, led by Tracey Rutt, whose CV includes experience at The Fat Duck and Cliveden House, demonstrated its skill and sophistication, producing inventive and playful desserts.

First amongst these was The Victoria, inspired by the restaurant’s name and the classic sponge named after the queen, not that you would recognise it as such. Instead, a globe of crisp white chocolate, sandwiched with pastry cream and strawberry jam, encased the classic sponge, a silky strawberry sorbet and lime gel. This inspired confection, embracing contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures, transformed a popular if uninteresting afternoon tea favourite, into a spectacular, memorable dessert.

Equally impressive was a play on rhubarb and custard. This layered construction comprised a Breton sable topped with rhubarb compote, an unmoulded free standing crème brûlée crowned with a rhubarb sorbet dressed with a rhubarb tuile. Each of these elements was crafted with consummate skill, from the textured biscuit and intensely flavoured compote, to the rich, smooth custard with crisp caramelised crust and velvety sorbet with its lace like tuile.

A well risen soufflé which retains height and has a light, dry texture is difficult to achieve even in the finest kitchens. Not here. The flavoursome banana souffle exhibited all these qualities in full, being enhanced by candied banana chips for a contrasting texture, a rum caramel syrup and an exemplary vanilla ice cream.

Good coffee and knowledgeable, seamless service by a young front of house team completed a memorable meal.

With its refined yet relaxed ambience, its well-judged price point and, most importantly, its distinguished food offering, The Victoria has already made its mark on the well-heeled, discerning diners of Oxshott. As word spreads, it will become more than a “community pub”, no doubt attracting those from further afield. Simon King, who led the front of house throughout our visit, has a wealth of experience – not just most recently in the senior management ranks of Heston Blumenthal but previously having worked his way up through the ranks of Gordon Ramsay Group to Group Operations Director. Such experience coupled with business insight and knowledge of hospitality bodes well for The Victoria. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return and will follow its fortunes with interest.

Restaurant Review: The Elder, Bath (Nov 2021)

Posted on: October 31st, 2021 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Elegant, sophisticated and beautiful is how one might describe Bath’s South Parade. The Elder Restaurant, housed in Hotel Indigo, forms a distinguished part of this range of newly restored Georgian townhouses.

The same epithets could justifiably be applied to the cooking of Gavin Edney, Group Head Chef of the Elder and its sister restaurants, The Woodsman in Stratford Upon Avon and The Forge in Chester. Inspired to open this new restaurant in Bath, Mike Robinson, restaurateur and a leading authority on wild food and game has collaborated with Gavin to produce an appealing repertoire of dishes that adhere to the group’s “Field to Plate” philosophy, with its emphasis on ethical sustainability, wild food, seasonality and locality.

Knowledge of provenance and good relations are essential prerequisites for engaging high-quality producers of meat, fish, game and wild food.  As Robinson says, “We know the farmers, the foragers and the fishermen. Our own Huntsman manages wild deer over large estates.” These ingredients are transformed with great skill and care into the select menu of The Elder.

The main carte features four starters, five mains, four puddings and a cheese option. Prices are realistic given the excellent quality of the ingredients – the provenance of which is acknowledged on the menu – and the skill and creativity of the cooking.

With a CV that includes experience at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, the Galvin Restaurants and most recently head chef at André Garrett at Cliveden, Taplow, Gavin’s reputation as a master in the kitchen is beyond doubt. Meat, game and fish are precisely timed and rested to optimise flavour and texture. Combinations of seasonal ingredients are well-balanced, so the main element is never overwhelmed by the accompaniments. Saucing is a particular strength, enhancing the overall impact of the dish. The presentation is clean and portions are generous.

The venue where his food is enjoyed is a series of four rooms of different sizes and covers, with a maximum for 70 covers combined. The main dining room has 14 covers. The green panels, lined with paintings of horse racing and jockeys give the feel of a traditional gentleman’s club. Leather banquettes, metal candelabra, heavy drapes, wall lights and strip lighting enhance this feel. The wooden tables are undressed but well-spaced. 

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in October to sample the autumn menu.

Homemade granary bread had a crisp crust with a nutty, rich taste and nobbly texture. It was served with Chew Valley butter from a Jersey cow. Accompanying this was a small glass of bullshot, made from beef and venison stock, black pepper and chilli, an unusual but warming opening to a cold evening’s dinner.

The first course featured a tartare of sea bream. The clean taste and delicate flavour of the dense, juicy white flesh was enhanced by the gentle acidity of tomatillo and moderated by the sweetness of the apple. Dashi gave the dish an umami lift and dots of taramasalata a creamy richness. Completed with squid ink and tapioca crisp, which balanced the softer elements, this was a brilliantly conceived and beautifully executed dish.

The following warm seafood dish combined classic and contemporary elements. Plump baked Fowey river mussels with a mild taste and tender chewiness were shrouded in a well-seasoned velouté. Topped with baked sourdough crumb, chives with their mild onion taste and nori dust which added a subtle sea flavoured umami touch, these contrasting ingredients balanced the creamy richness of the velouté. Accompanied by a Falmouth Bay seaweed baguette to mop up the juices, this was another highly satisfying dish.

A main course of nose-to-tail fallow deer perfectly exemplified the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability, wild food, seasonality and its field to plate philosophy.  Venison comes from the Bathurst estate, where the group‘s Huntsman oversees the ethical management of the deer before being processed in the group’s FSA regulated larder. Full justice to the animal was achieved by the accurate medium-rare timing of the haunch and loin which ensured their maximum flavour and meltingly soft texture.

Heartier additions were afforded by a flavoursome faggot of the offal and offcuts and a tasty “Hunter’s pie” of venison mince topped with golden piped mashed potato. Charred Brussel sprouts gave a mild smokiness offset of the sweetness of parsnip stuffed with blackberry compote and fennel pollen, while everything was bought together by lip-smacking red wine sauce flavoured with juniper. The meticulous attention to detail, the clean presentation and the generous portions added to the success of this memorable dish.  After the heights reached by the savoury courses, the anti-climax of desserts, so often a disappointment even in high-end restaurants, did not occur: the same refined skill, care and attention were evident throughout.

A blackberry tart of superfine, crisp pastry encased the poached fruit, salted crushed almonds and a vanilla cream topped with an intense quenelle of smooth blackberry sorbet. The combination of contrasting textures, flavours and temperatures demonstrated the consummate skill of the pastry section.

Equally accomplished was the warm wild damson soufflé. For this much-underrated autumn fruit with its sweet and sour taste, a souffle was a perfect vehicle to demonstrate its versatility. Soft and fluffy in the middle and well risen, it was topped, amazingly, with a disc of shortbread which did not cause it to deflate. Bay leaf ice cream, with its subtle, slightly floral flavour and silky texture, was a well-chosen accompaniment.

Mini doughnuts and good coffee completed an outstanding meal, one enhanced by the seamless, knowledgeable service of Christian who waited at my table.

Having opened after lockdown, with all the problems associated with suppliers, the restaurant is making progress in achieving consistency of product, so vital for success. Clearly, in Gavin Edney, it has a chef of distinction who will see it go from strength to strength. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return to The Elder and will follow its progress with interest.

Restaurant Review: Wedgwood, Edinburgh (Oct 2021)

Posted on: October 13th, 2021 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Located on Canongate, part of the southern section of the Royal Mile, Wedgwood is one of Edinburgh’s long-standing fine dining restaurants. For fourteen and a half years it has satisfied the ever-changing demands of a discerning clientele. The modest exterior belies a spacious air-conditioned dining room of 44 covers. Recently refurbished, the bright and stylish décor, pendant lighting and well-spaced tables provide a smart but informal setting.

Paul Wedgwood’s Modern Scottish cuisine has Asian influences, although less prominent than before, and exploits the foraged ingredients of land and sea.  Spiced monkfish, cauliflower korma, pickled daikon and saffron pickled onions evidence the former. Woodruff in a broth accompanying salt-baked celeriac, sea vegetables garnishing a halibut dish, lavender flavouring a mallard breast, bramble in a salmon starter, sweet cicely in a vegetarian option, and wild mint ice cream clearly reflect his passion for wild food.

The cooking of meat and fish is precisely timed to maximise their inherent flavour. Vegetables are given equal attention to protein.  Many dishes are multi-layered, showing invention tempered by restraint, being harmonious in composition and balanced in taste, texture and temperature. Saucing is carefully judged so as not to overwhelm the star ingredient. Both classical and contemporary techniques are employed demonstrating high levels of culinary skill. Menu descriptions are terse, listing the main ingredients but not indicating the cooking methods, giving a surprise to the diner. The presentation is clean and portions are generous.

Pricing is realistic but represents good value given the quality of the product and the skills and versatility on show. These are two reasons that help to explain Wedgwood’s longevity in an area saturated with restaurants

The main menu comprises five starters priced from £9.95 to £13.50; five mains from £22.95 to £28.95; and four desserts all at £8.95. A cheese plate is also available at £10.95. A six-course tasting menu – “A Wee Tour of Scotland” – priced £60 includes some dishes from the carte. There is also a vegetarian menu at £55 and a popular two or three-course set lunch at £20/£25.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday lunchtime when only the set menu is available. An acid test for any high-end restaurant is that the standard of cooking, albeit usually of more humble ingredients with a limited choice, should be the same here as for the other menus. In this respect, Wedgwood did not disappoint. With three options in each course, including vegetarian dishes, most preferences would be satisfied

A starter of scorched salmon was accurately judged to retain the flavour of the rich buttery flesh. Goats’ curd, with its mild tanginess, worked well as a foil to the oily fish. Freshness was provided by bramble and bramble oil which added sweetness, apple giving a crisp texture and gentle acidic note, and radish adding a spicy edge.

Another starter of venison and pancetta terrine was moist and well-seasoned. Studded with pistachios, which gave sweetness and a contrasting texture, it was balanced by pickled daikon and beetroot, giving acidity and an earthy note. Dressed with garlic crumb, this was a visually stunning dish.

Gently spiced monkfish tail was carefully rendered, capturing the mild, sweet flavour of the dense, meaty flesh. Perched on a bed of crushed potato and braised fennel, and dressed with sea herbs, the dish was bought together by a full flavoured but light crab bisque.

Another main course featured two thick slices of belly pork cooked by the confit method. So often used with duck, it was successfully employed here, resulting in meltingly soft meat, full of porcine richness. White beans in a well-reduced romesco sauce of tomatoes, peppers and almonds proved a robust, hearty accompaniment. Charred sweetcorn added a smoky lift and hispi cabbage gave an element of freshness the dish needed.

For dessert, buttermilk and lemon thyme panna cotta served in a glass cup, had the correct degree of wobble and a well-balanced herbal note. Blackcurrant compote gave a contrasting tartness to the cream, while crushed almonds added a pleasing textural flourish.

The chocolate brownie was a model of its kind, with a crisp crust and a gooey centre. Partnered with a rich chocolate cremeux and a quenelle of wild mint ice cream, these two flavours were an ideal match for this decadent dessert.

Overall, this was a most pleasant experience in a relaxed, informal setting. It was enhanced by the welcoming, knowledgeable and efficient service led by Amanda, the restaurant manager.

Fine Dining Guide had an opportunity to speak to chef-patron Paul Wedgwood

Lisa and Paul Wedgwood

Who inspired you in your cooking career?

Paul Wedgwood’s love of cooking was deeply ingrained at an early age. His father was an excellent experimental home cook. Good food including game was always available, stimulating his interest in a career in cookery. Having qualified from Runshaw College in Leyland with a National Diploma in Hotel Management, Paul won a coveted placement at the renowned Miller Howe in Windermere.  Under the inspirational guidance of chef patron John Tovey, whose sourcing of fresh, local ingredients – some grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden – made him a pioneer in this field. Paul successfully refined his skills, gaining him a full-time job in the kitchen. Later positions in Cumbria, culminating in his being part of the management team which opened The Georgina House in Kendal, greatly widened Paul’s appreciation of the hospitality industry. Thus, he was fully prepared to open his eponymous restaurant in Canongate along the Royal Mile in late 2007. Since then, it has won an array of local and national awards of which Harden’s is the most prized.

How do you explain the restaurant’s longevity of fourteen and a half years?

Paul and his partner Lisa have always responded consistently and positively to customer feedback, hoping to provide the “perfect night out” for their guests. Therefore, the restaurant has evolved, meeting the needs of an ever more demanding clientele who increasingly wish to know the finer details such as the provenance of the produce as well as how it is cooked.

How successful is the evening tasting menu?

About 65% to 70% of the evening covers opt for the tasting menu. It used to be only 25% to 30% when the a la carte menu was longer and shown first to the guests. A strategic decision, partly in response to customer feedback, was taken to shorten the carte, which had satisfied most preferences but was admittedly too long, and present the tasting menu first. Eventually, this more than doubled the uptake.

Tell us about your kitchen and front of house teams.

There are nine in the kitchen, three of whom are part time. Given the long hours, they now work a four-day week to promote an improved work-life balance. This has encouraged some chefs to return to work at Wedgwood. There are four full time and two part time front of house members.

Tell us about your interest in foraging

Paul has been a keen forager since his boy scout days. He has included foraged ingredients in his menus since opening, being a pioneer of foraging before it became fashionable.

Do you have a signature dish?

Paul is very proud of his scallops with cauliflower korma puree, pineapple and capers relish, peanut and pistachio dust dressed with micro coriander and its oil. Customers are advised to taste all the elements together to enjoy the harmony of flavours before eating them separately. This hugely popular dish is rarely off the menu before an outcry brings it back

What changes have you noted in the Edinburgh restaurant scene in recent years.

The rise of independent restaurants has been crucial in raising standards and responding to a more educated and demanding clientele. Indeed, they need to be ahead of the game in a constantly evolving gastronomy stimulated by TV chefs. Edinburgh’s thriving tourist industry and its strong gastronomic reputation will ensure a healthy coexistence amongst competing restaurants

Restaurant Review: Heron, Edinburgh (Oct 2021)

Posted on: October 7th, 2021 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Housed in a beautiful Victorian building at The Shore in Leith, Heron has, perhaps, the most enviable location of all the plethora of eateries there.  On a prominent slope, at the junction of Henderson Street and Sandport Place, it overlooks the Water of Leith, with views down to the old docks.

As restaurant manager Glen commented, developments in Leith continue to have real momentum with the openings of distilleries, bakeries, wine and cocktail bars alongside the Michelin starred and other fine restaurants. The projected arrival of the tramline by 2023 will attract even more interest in the area.

Originally conceived in January and opened at breakneck speed in July 2021, it is the first joint restaurant venture of chefs Tomas Gormley and Sam Yorke. The minimalist interior has an uncluttered look with stripped pine floors, pine effect tables and Venetian blinds. The high ceiling in Japanese seaweed, grey walls, and pendant lighting are attractive but indicate a work in progress. Their Tables are arranged on two levels and there is a large concrete bar.

A mixed clientele includes the young, curious locals, those who were clients of Bad Seeds, the chefs’ home dining venture in the lockdown, and industry friends from other restaurants and hotels.

The restaurant aims to serve “farm to table” dishes with ingredients sourced from well known local suppliers. These include Grieson Organic, Phantassie Organic Farm and The Free Company

Both classical and contemporary methods are used in the kitchen, reflecting the relative experience of the two young, yet highly trained chefs. Meat, game and fish dishes are accurately timed both in cooking and resting, maximising their flavour and texture. Dishes look simple in their clean and often beautiful presentation but are often multi-layered and complex. Ingredients are judiciously combined, being balanced in their tastes, textures and temperatures. Invention is moderated by a shrewd gastronomic sense, leading to surprising yet enjoyable results.

Prices compare favourably with similar establishments being fair and realistic given the quality of the ingredients and the skill in cooking.  On a late summer menu, four starters were priced from £9 to £15; four mains from £20 to £34; and three desserts, all at £9. The limited choice allows the current two chefs to focus on producing every plate to perfection.

The menu changes every few weeks and reflects the best seasonal produce. In the current fashion, descriptions merely list the main ingredients of each dish with no indication of cooking methods. However, the front of house staff team is well informed and have no difficulty answering guests’ questions.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in late September and found much to admire in the food, wine, service and ambience.

An amuse-bouche of two Lindisfarne oysters, their essential briny taste enlivened by a dressing of smoky but not overwhelming Mescal, spicy oregano giving a peppery heat, and a drizzle of gazpacho and lime for sweetness and acidity.

Another amuse comprised a generous bowl of three types of East Coast charcuterie: rich robust saucisson sec, aged and dry salami Picante, and a fragrant Tartufo with truffle and porcini.

Whipped butter with brown crab meat accompanied a small sourdough loaf with a crisp crust and tangy crumb.

A starter of mackerel cured in rice wine and Mirin delighted in its lively freshness. This oily fish was balanced by compressed apple cubes and apple sorbet giving sweetness and acidity, and horseradish cream and wasabi crumb giving a background heat. In colours of silver, green and white, this was a brilliantly conceived and visually stunning dish.Wine: Riesling Federspiel, Weingut Prager, 2017

Another starter of veal sweetbreads was accurately pan roasted to produce a caramelised crust and soft, creamy flesh. Garnished with wood sorrel, these delectable morsels of offal rested on a bed of earthy, silky-smooth celeriac puree.  Garnished with girolle mushrooms the dish was finished with an intense veal jus. This rich, luxurious, almost decadent dish, classically executed, has proved extremely popular. Wine: St Joseph Blanc, Selection d J S Chase, 2014

Our two main courses came with side dishes

Classical cooking was also evident in the first main course. A flavoursome sirloin steak was cooked medium rare and dressed in a deep, glossy Bordelaise sauce. Cubes of bone marrow and Parmesan cubes added richness and a moderate salty crunch. An innovative carrot dauphinoise was also topped with the same crumb. Freshness and a foil the richness was given by a side salad of Isle of Wight tomatoes, basil oil and red onion. Wine: Saintayme St Emilion, Grand Cru 2014

A breast of partridge was precisely cooked and rested to optimise its moist flesh and mild gamey flavour. Topped with pumpkin seed and sage crumb to give texture, and stuffed with its leg meat, foie gras, oats and smoked raisins to give an added surprise, this complex dish was dressed with a smooth, sweet pumpkin puree and a piquant Barberry sauce. Served on the side was a freshly baked brioche stuffed with a parfait of the bird’s liver and topped with pancetta and thyme. This tour de force of game cookery impressed on all fronts: the initial concept; the timing and attention to detail; and the simple, clean presentation of a complex, multi layered dish.  Wine: Savigny Les Beaune Premier Cru, Domaine Savigny 2008

Desserts, often the Achilles Heel of fine dining establishments, did not disappoint in maintaining the high standards of conception and execution.

An impressive autumnal dish showcased the humble damson in three ways:  a light creamy glazed cheesecake; a velvety smooth and intensely flavoured sorbet on crushed shortcake; and a damson gel.

Equally accomplished was the chocolate delice: a mousse of dark chocolate came with a peanut financier, caramel jelly, topped with an exemplary peanut brittle and a quenelle of silky buttermilk sorbet, the gentle sourness of which balanced the richness of the sweeter elements.

Good coffee ended a memorable meal, one enhanced by the welcoming, seamless service under the direction of restaurant manager Glen Montgomery, whose distinguished CV includes Restaurant Andrew Fairlie and the Balmoral Hotel. With a career also as a sommelier, he was able to match wines to dishes with consummate ease as well as describing the wine and dishes in meticulous detail. His professional yet unstuffy approach contributed to the relaxed ambience room of the dining room.

Fine Dining Guide had an opportunity to speak to the chefs. Both have impressive pedigrees: Tomas Gormley (26) was head chef at The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage, after working at Edinburgh’s 21212 and Le Roi Fou, and before that Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles; Sam Yorke (23) worked under chef Dominic Jack at the now closed Castle Terrace Restaurant, then transferred to Tom Kitchin’s Bonnie Badger in Gullane.

Describe the journey from ‘Bad Seeds’ lockdown fine dining takeaway to Heron

Their first meeting to discuss the idea was on January 8th. They continued with Bed Seeds until 8th March, then work on the Heron site progressed from March to July. With the help of those of Sam’s family, who were in the relevant trades, Heron opened on 15th July. The pace was clearly fast, with further developments in store. With a current capacity of 40 covers, there are plans for dining in the lower area and casual dining at the bar, increasing the number to 50.  The arrival of a third chef in the last two weeks will facilitate this and help extend and fine tune the offering. Both chefs commented on how well their restaurant has been received, adding there is room for all types of eateries to co-exist happily in the area.

How do you combine use of artisan suppliers and organic producers with fine dining consistency?

Failures by suppliers could neither be predicted nor planned for. Fortunately, most of their suppliers have been reliable. As they try to change or adapt the menu frequently, continued dependence on the same suppliers does not happen. There have been no major problems since opening.

Do you have any signature dishes?

The sweetbread with celeriac puree starter has been on the menu since opening so could be considered a signature dish. Of the main courses, lobster tail with ginger and chilli ravioli, now off the menu, was also popular. Currently, the partridge dish has proved a winner.

As joint chefs, how are any differences in approach or concept reconciled?

As joint chefs it may take some time to settle on a dish. However, they tend to agree on most things but like to bounce ideas off each other. 

What can you take from your relative backgrounds?

Both spent lot of time in classical French led kitchens as reflected in their current repertoire. Sam worked under a head chef who was more strictly classical, old school with discipline, structure and organisation. In similar fashion, Tomas devleoped his skills with Andrew Fairlie, while considering himself as more experimental.

What is your view of social media?

Tomas is the expert here. The coverage has been most encouraging so far.

What is your ultimate ideal for this restaurant?

The aim is to busy every night!

Restaurant Review: Aurora, Edinburgh (Oct 2021)

Posted on: October 2nd, 2021 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

Aurora at 187 Great Junction Street is not in the fashionable part of Leith but on a busy main road lined with small shops and eateries of all kinds. It does not have a waterfront view. It is certainly not the place where you would expect to come across a fine dining restaurant. Its frontage is easily missable and a peek through the window would reveal a narrow, high ceilinged room with minimal decoration and lighting.

And yet Aurora is making waves in the crowded Edinburgh restaurant scene, serving a seven-course tasting menu that could compete with its more established rivals. It has attracted both regular locals and those making a special trip.

This 18-cover restaurant has stripped pine floors and undressed pine tables lit by bulkhead lighting. Wine racks on high shelving are illuminated by spotlights. A few abstract prints decorate the blue walls and succulent plants line the front window sill. Clearly, with the unremarkable décor, furniture and fittings, the focus is all on the food. And what food it is! But first some background on the chef-patron…

Now aged 33, Kamil Witek’s culinary background is far from typical of most chefs. Indeed, he became a chef by accident. In Poland, he entered university with the ultimate aim of becoming an actor. Having realised this may not be the most stable and lucrative profession he turned to the chef world.

As a youngster, Kamil visited Edinburgh and was originally impressed by its lively and colourful culture, especially during the festival, when the city reminded him of his home in Krakow. He moved permanently to Edinburgh seven years ago, first as senior sous chef at The Apartment, then as sous and head chef at Salt Café in Morningside. There he acquired new skills and was given complete freedom to develop the menu, making a name for himself as a promising high-end chef. He eventually decided to open Aurora as a small all-day dining café four years ago.  While this concept only took off at weekends, the monthly evening tasting menu proved very popular, so the menu slowly switched to tasting only.  During lockdowns, popular takeaways and weekend-ready meals paid the bills, outside of that the new tasting concept was operating six months prior to the first lockdown, six months between lockdowns, and during the last three months. Business has been good, so while success is always a relative measure, so far so good.

By his own admission, it is difficult to describe his style of cooking. It is certainly “modern and global”, taking inspiration from different art and cultures, so through his tasting menu he likes to take his guests on a “global journey.” Kamil treats his team of six, three in the kitchen and three front of house, as a family, having worked with some of them in Krakow and at Salt. 

The tasting menu changes four times a year with the seasons. Aurora has been lucky in retaining many of its original customers who have remained loyal through its various changes. As the tasting menu has choices in five of its courses, customers can return to enjoy the same menu but choosing different items. Foodies are coming from greater distances but the core of his clientele remains those who came for breakfast four years ago.

When asked to name a signature dish, Kamil considers campfire potatoes, charred on the outside and soft inside, which proved popular for seven years at Salt and Aurora.  His smoked butter uses the same idea of the scout campfire aroma.

When considering the sampled food offering, it is bold in conception and accomplished in execution, displaying precision in cooking, employing a variety of techniques both classic and contemporary. Meat and fish cookery is accurately timed, enabling their true flavours to shine. Saucing is a particular strength, judiciously applied to highlight the main ingredient.  Influences are international but combinations of ingredients are always harmonious, with balance in tastes, textures and temperatures. Equal care is given to vegetarian options, with a variety of popular and less well-known produce being used. Attention to detail is meticulous. The plating is clean, the presentation is beautiful and portions are generous.

Pricing of the seven-course menu at £52, which includes an amuse bouche and petit fours, is a steal for cooking of this skill using top-notch ingredients. The ubiquitous listing of ingredients for each dish, with no indication of cooking methods, is also evident here.

The wine list is mainly Old World with ungreedy markups.  A flight of matching wines is £48, More interesting is the non-alcoholic matching selection priced at £30 created by manager /sommelier Cezar. The use of herbal essences, botanicals, non-alcoholic bitters, kombucha, vermouth, homemade lemongrass lemonade, calamansi, and lapsang souchong tea all featured in the flight we chose.

Fine Dining Guide visited Aurora on a weekday evening in September and was overwhelmed by the brilliance of the seven-course summer tasting menu.

A stunning amuse bouche featured a deep-fried potato flour parcel encasing fried egg yolk and topped with truffle shavings. This heavenly combination of crisp pastry, warm liquid centre and the heady fragrance of the luxurious fungus, to be consumed in one mouthful to avoid a mess, proved an original, opener.

A warm sourdough loaf was partnered with potato skin butter smoked under a cloche.

For the second course, a well-seasoned, sweet tomatillo gazpacho and refreshing cucumber sorbet with smoked almonds was enveloped by a cloud of cucumber foam which needed more umph to elevate the dish. It proved to be a minor flaw in the whole menu.

On the second course, a “Butterfly Salad” included radicchio and Chinese leaves, blanched to reduce their bitterness; cherry tomatoes, toasted pine nuts and cannellini beans; and six plant-based sauces including red wine balsamic, herb olive oil and beetroot jus. This colourful plate had soft and crisp textures with well-balanced dressings.

As an alternative on the second course, a plump scallop was seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft, sweet flesh. Toasted rice flakes gave a contrasting texture while passion fruit puree, wasabi aioli and dried shrimp paste added sharpness, a gentle heat and an umami note.

The third course featured an accurately timed pan-fried fillet of cod, resulting in delicate, moist and translucent white flakes of fish. It was served with a herbaceous plankton sauce, pickled daikon for contrasting texture and lemon oil and yuzu pearls for acidity. This dish fully demonstrated the versatility of the chef using classic and molecular cookery.

The fourth course comprised alternative pasta dishes.

The wild mushroom open raviolo was a cornucopia of fragrant fungi. Layered above the silky pasta were artichoke cream, sauteed morels, chanterelles and shavings of summer black truffles. A sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts finished this earthy, aromatic dish of contrasting tastes and textures.

Zlikrofi, a Slovenian raviolo, was different in tone and shape and thicker than Italian pasta. Stuffed with potato and guanciale pork, and topped with Italian Montasio cheese, parsley sauce, fermented garlic powder, and powdered grisinii sticks, this was a more robust, hearty alternative to the open ravioli.

For the fifth course, we both chose the suckling pig. It had been cooked sous vide for 24 hours, pulled and crisped up. This tender, flavoursome porcine treat simply melted in the mouth. It worked well with the three accompanying sauces: a rich chicken jus, a sweet pineapple puree and punchy tiger milk of fish paste, chilli and lime. Potato glass chips, charred spring onions, and purple heritage carrot added crisp texture and a gentle smokiness to this original and accomplished dish.

A pre-dessert of beer foam and a tangy lemon gel satisfyingly refreshed the palate

Desserts showed the same degree of invention and flair as the preceding dishes.

A pear poached in rhubarb and elderflower Edinburgh gin had a soft, yielding texture and pronounced flavour. It was partnered with a velvety smooth quenelle of fennel and ginger ice cream and was topped with honey tuile, providing a light, crisp garnish.

Equally delicious was the light but rich dark chocolate mousse with tonka bean. Partnered with mixed berry ice cream, both were encased with crisp meringue shards flavoured with garum masala. This whole dessert proved to be an inspired combination of different textures and temperatures, with a sweet, sharp and mildly spicy flavour.

Excellent petit fours of passion fruit marshmallows, pistachio macaroons and chocolate truffles completed a memorable meal, one enhanced by the welcoming, efficient and unobtrusive service of Marta and Cezar who explained the drink pairings he had created with enthusiasm.

Kamil Witek has clearly made the right decision in only offering a tasting menu. From a business perspective, it is the most efficient and least wasteful form of fine dining catering. More importantly, it allows him to demonstrate his creative genius and refined skills with assured consistency.  He hopes to someday expand to a bigger site in Leith, prior to lockdown he had half an eye on the new Little Chartroom site. Should the opportunity arise again, he wants to stay in Leith, where the most vibrant, growing and interesting part of the city offers the most significant opportunities. Fine Dining Guide hopes to return to sample another seasonal menu at Aurora and will follow its progress with interest.

Restaurant Review: Noizé, London (Sept 2021)

Posted on: September 20th, 2021 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood
Noize Exterior

Noizé is named after a village in the Loire valley where, at an early age, proprietor Mathieu Germond absorbed the rustic and convivial atmosphere of food and wine from his grandparents. These essential features characterise his restaurant which opened in October 2017.   Having decided at the age of 13 to follow a career in hospitality, Mathieu was well travelled by the time he came to London and to the gastronomic heights of then Michelin two-starred The Captial Hotel under Eric Chavot.  However, most London dining foodies are familiar with Mathieu as the long-serving front of house leader of Pied a Terre, a restaurant where he skillfully developed bonds with the clientele that would survive the test of time.  His understated manner, belies an effortless charm and passion, together with an enthusiasm for wine and service, that set him apart as one of the leaders in his field. Now Mathieu takes pride in the relaxed informality of Noizé, reviving the joys of an a la carte menu devoid of canapes, amuses–bouche and pre desserts.

The wine list, leaning on Mathieu’s extensive knowledge and experience, is hugely impressive. It features the best of both worlds, with over 50 labels under £50 but also comprises a wine connoisseur’s paradise, as the mark up is fixed cost plus, so the better the wine, the better the value to the point where some are below retail price for the vintage offered. This is a steal in London terms. It is hardly surprising that wine lovers and those in the trade are frequent visitors to the restaurant.

Proprietor Mathieu Germond (Left) & Chef George Farrugia (Right)

Chef George Farrugia, who has been at the helm for just six weeks, has injected new vitality into the kitchen. Rejecting law as a career after graduating in the subject, his first experience of a professional kitchen was in a Greek restaurant in Manchester, where he grew up. He progressed to Koffmann’s at the Berkeley Hotel where he gained his classical training. When Eric Chavot set up his eponymous brasserie in Covent Garden, George was part of the team that helped it gain a Michelin star. He stayed there for four years as sous chef, consolidating his skills before moving on to leading positions at the Chelsea Arts Club and then Bob Bob Ricard. His role immediately before arriving at Noizé was at Fenchurch Sky Garden where his own style was allowed to blossom.

Fine Dining Guide visited Noizé on a weekday evening in September, meeting its owner and chef, and finding much to admire in its ambience, food, wine, and service.

Located on the corner of Whitfield Street and Scala Street, in a site once occupied by Oliver Dabbous’ eponymous restaurant, the severe grey industrial chic of the two-level wooden-floored interior has been toned down. Turquoise walls, red and grey velvet upholstery, and linen tablecloths give a more refined feel. Well-spaced tables are lit by opaque globes. The basement level, including a table for six in a recess that can be curtained off, has a slightly more relaxed quality than the smaller ground floor level. Overall, however, the ambience is informal with a reassuring buzz from contented diners.

George Farrugia leads a brigade of three full and one part-timer, two of whom followed him from Sky Kitchen. Given his Cypriot roots and the influence of his French wife, Mediterranean flavours emerge from dishes using seasonal British ingredients. A northern influence, such as black pudding and the use of deeply flavoured jus, is also evident in some dishes. All his was demonstrated in his appearance on the 2020 series of The Great British Menu, which highlighted his status as a rising star.

Cooking techniques are both classical and contemporary. Poaching to order, pickling, curing and pan frying are much in evidence. The timing of meat, offal and fish dishes is precise, allowing their true flavours to shine. Saucing is judicious in quantity, never overwhelming the main ingredient. Dishes are well balanced in terms of tastes, textures and temperatures. Ingredient combinations are harmonious, and presentation is clean, avoiding the urge to overdress the plate.

A blackboard menu emphasises the casual and rustic nature of the restaurant’s offering. Portions are generous in the French brasserie tradition and pricing is realistic without being greedy. Compared with similar establishments in the West End, Noizé is a relative bargain which helps to explain its success.

Four Snacks at £5 each are offered. The three sampled proved deliciously moreish, but our appetites were constrained by the thought of three courses to follow:

Gougeres had light, crisp choux pastry and a flavoursome oozing cheese filling.

Soft, boneless chicken wings, glazed in a piquant BBQ sauce, came perched on celeriac remoulade

Succulent veal and gently spiced harissa croquettes made the most of braised and shredded offcuts which were coated in a crisp crumb and deep-fried.

Five Starters ranging from £9.50 to £13 offered a good range of choice, showing the versatility of the kitchen

Beef carpaccio, pre-cured like Bresola, proved a taste and textural delight. Delicately seasoned so as not to overwhelm the meltingly thin sliced meat, the dish was dressed with gently pickled Enoki mushrooms, shreds of toasted sourdough and a sprinkling of hazelnuts for contrasting texture, and dotted with truffle aioli as a final flourish.

A generous portion of confit salmon simply melted in the mouth. Its softness was balanced by crisp squid ink tuiles. Soft boiled quail’s egg and potato salad added richness while pickled fennel and horseradish sauce gave the astringency the dish needed.

A special of veal sweetbread more than justified its price supplement. Coated in a blackened spice rub, this delectable prized piece of offal was accurately seared to produce a caramelised crust, whilst retaining its rich flavour and creamy texture. Baby leek and caramelised apple were appropriate garnishes, the dish being brought together by a sauce of confit onion, crisped sweetbread membrane, madeira, veal and chicken stock, with grain mustard being added at the end for a floral punch. Unashamedly rich, this dish was made even more decadent by an accompanying bowl of silky smooth pomme puree.

Five Mains from £19 to £26 were offered.

As with the starters, dishes look deceptively simple but involve a series of techniques and stages.

 A breast of pre poached Guinea fowl had been rested then pan roasted to order. Topped with dehydrated quinoa which had been blanched, dried and fried, it produced a crisp coating that balanced the succulent, moist flesh. Potato and black pudding terrine, wild mushrooms, spinach and Jerusalem artichoke provided earthy, bold flavours to enhance the mild, delicate flavour of the bird.  A light jus completed this dish perfectly.

A fillet of halibut was poached to order to avoid overcooking and to retain its smooth, delicate piscine texture and mild, sweet taste.  White coco beans provided substance with contrasting texture and earthy flavour, the dish being bought together by a complex broth of mussels, Datterini tomato and vegetable pesto.

A special main course of pigeon featured precisely timed breasts to maximise flavour and texture, preventing them from becoming an experience more akin to liver. Accompanied by its soft confit leg, beetroot puree, potato cake and a rich jus, this was classic cooking at its best.

Five Desserts were priced from £8.50 to £12.50. There are also various cheese options.

A signature dish of ultra-creamy rice pudding featured delicate poached pear and, for contrasting texture and flavour, puffed black rice. This dish also reflects George’s northern roots.

Rum baba was classically rendered, its savarin base being light and generously infused with rum syrup. Pineapple carpaccio gave a textural sweetness and Chantilly a creamy richness.

Chocolate de Crème comprised layers of bittersweet ganache, pistachio crumb and a deeply flavoured pistachio ice cream sprinkled with crystalised pistachios. This rich, indulgent dessert successfully married contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures.

Good coffee and truffles ended an enjoyable meal, enhanced by the seamless, informative and unobtrusive service of waitress Severine and sommelier Phillipe.

Clearly, George Farrugia has made an impressive start, confirming Noizé’s place as a worthy contender in a highly competitive field. Short of another lockdown, the restaurant will go from strength to strength, justifying its already solid reputation for good food, wine and service. Fine Dining Guide will return to sample other dishes and will follow its fortunes with interest.

Restaurant Review: Southside Scran, Edinburgh (November 2019)

Posted on: November 26th, 2019 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood
SouthSide Scran Tom Kitchin

[Tom Kitchin at Southside Scran]

The Auld alliance is alive and kicking at Southside Scran bistro in the affluent Bruntsfield district of Edinburgh.  Opened by chef Tom Kitchin in November 2018, it combines the ambience of a French bistro with the cuisine of a Scottish master chef. It is the third of his venues in the capital, alongside his eponymous Michelin starred restaurant in Leith and the Scran and Scallie gastropub in Stockbridge, which holds a Bib Gourmand.         .

The attractive, spacious interior, designed by Michaela Kitchin, evokes a distinctly Parisian feel, enhanced by French background music. Plain wooden and tiled floors, mirrors and brass fittings, including an impressive mesh screen, blend harmoniously with the dark green and brown colour scheme. Different table arrangements in the split level dining area are paired with a variety of seating, featuring comfortable banquettes and classic bistro chairs in a range of materials and textures.  

Southside Scran Interior

[Southside Scran Interior]

Natural light cascading through the wide picture windows give the restaurant a bright airy feel.  At night, cleverly positioned wall, pendant and spot lighting, together with a roaring fire in the bar area, give the restaurant a comforting, snug feel, especially in winter. 

Pride of place must go to a magnificent Maestro Rotisserie, a boon for daily poultry, meat and fish dishes.

Southside Scran Head CHef Hearty Derlet and Head Waiter Diego Carrozzo

[Head Chef Hearty Derlet and FoH leader for the evening Diego Carrozzo]

Hearty Derlet, Head Chef, comes from the Kitchin fold, having spent two years in Leith before moving to China and returning for the bistro’s opening as sous chef, before being promoted. Leading a team of seven, he ensures that Tom Kitchin’s philosophy of “From Nature to Plate” is given full expression in the varied menu. This involves the sourcing of the finest, mainly Scottish, seasonal ingredients as the basis for cooking French bistro style dishes. Consistency in cooking standards is maintained through limited opening – Wednesday to Sunday lunch and dinner – relieving pressure on the kitchen, and a modest range of dishes, each of which can be perfected.

The November menu featured four starters, £12.50 to £18; five “From the Land”, £16 to £26; three “From the Sea,” £15.50 to £19.50 and fish of the day at market price; three salads in two sizes; four vegetarian dishes, £8 to £14; eight sides all £4.50; and five desserts, £8.50 each. To these are added daily starter and main “specials.” Prices are fair and realistic given the outstanding quality of the produce, the skill in cooking, the generous portions, the well-judged service and the refined surroundings. They also compare favourably with similar restaurants in Edinburgh. For those on a more limited budget, a set lunch (3/4 courses (Including cheese) for £21.50/29.50), with three choices in each course, offers excellent value for money with no reduction in the standard of the cooking.

Heading the front of house team on the Saturday lunch time we visited was Diego Carrozzo, another veteran of the Kitchin fold, whose undoubted charm was matched by his extensive knowledge of food and wine. His warm, welcoming, relaxed yet professional service quickly put us at our ease

Our lunch began with a good selection of nibbles: crisp baguette with good butter; a well flavoured, smooth chicken liver mousse with calvados jelly, homemade crisps and cornichons. Whilst lesser establishments often charge for these basics, here they are offered freely.

Southside Scran Salmon Raviolo

A first course of salmon raviolo featured exemplary thin pasta encasing a generous, well-seasoned, textured filling of the subtle tasting fish. Balancing this was a vibrant, deeply flavoured, rich yet not too creamy shellfish bisque. An acid test of an accomplished kitchen, this passed with flying colours.

Southside Scran Crab Pancake

The earthiness of an open, thin chickpea pancake worked well as the base for the beautifully fresh white meat of Newhaven crab. This was spiked with as a well-judged oriental kick of chilli, ginger and coriander’ which did not overwhelm the delicate crab. It was also pleasing to see good use made of the brown meat in a mayonnaise served separately. Little gem lettuce added the crisp salad texture the dish needed.

Southside Scran Veal Sweetbreads

A “special” of veal sweetbreads saw this delectable piece of offal accurately timed to produce a   caramelised crust and soft, smooth, creamy flesh. Roasted and pureed pumpkin gave an earthy sweetness which contrasted with the mild, savoury taste of the sweetbreads. Soft pillows of sautéed gnocchi added substance to the dish which was finished with crisp sage leaves and pumpkin seeds. Overall, this was a beautifully conceived and well executed dish.

Southside Scran Mallard en Croute

Scottish mallard en croute from the main menu was not a dish for the faint hearted. The two very generous slices comprised a meal  in itself; had I known, I would not have ordered a starter. With a mild gamey flavour and slightly coarse texture, the fatless breast and leg meat of this wild duck, together with a vegetable farce, was wrapped en crepinette and pancetta, before being covered with puff pastry. The result was moist, tender meat encased in a crisp, flaky, golden crust with no soggy bottom. Finished with a smooth, gently sweet parsnip pure and a rich red wine reduction, this was a tour de force of game cookery.

SouthsideScran_Turbot

A whole small turbot, expertly cooked on the plancha grill, was deftly skinned and filleted at the table by Diego, adding a little theatre to the service. The large flakes of the gleaming white flesh retained their moistness, and it was good to see the often overlooked but delicious cheeks also being served. Sauce Grenobleoise, with its beurre noisette, lemon and capers gave a rich and sharp lift to the mild flavoured fish; brown shrimps added a stronger seafood note and croutons gave a contrasting crispness.   

Three side dishes – a ragout of lentils and lardons, fondant potatoes, garlic and spring onions, and warm French beans, hazelnuts and shallots were given the same care and attention as the main courses. The large portions were designed for sharing.

Nor was there was any deceleration in the desserts, often the Achilles heel of bistro menus

Southside Scran Sea Buckthorn

From the set menu, a Sea buckthorn tart had crisp pate sucree and well balanced sweet and sour filling, the berries reduced down with sugar and carrot juice to moderate their intense bitterness.  A cold and acidic quenelle of yogurt sorbet provided the ideal foil in temperature and texture.

Southside Scran_Pear

Finally, from the main menu, a pear poached in red wine was suitably soft and yielding. Stem ginger gave a warming note, and crème Chantilly was well flavoured with vanilla. This fruit and spice combination, balanced by the richness of the cream, worked well in this simple yet well executed dessert.

Good espresso finished a memorable lunch, one enhanced by relaxed ambience and the exciting buzz of contented diners as the restaurant began to fill. Now in its second year of trading, Southside  Scran has made its mark in the vibrant Edinburgh dining scene. Well above the average bistro standards in its food, service, design and décor, it can only go from strength to strength in a highly competitive market. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its visit and will follow its progress with interest.

Restaurant Review: Aizle, Edinburgh (November 2019)

Posted on: November 22nd, 2019 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

This feature will outline chef/owner Stuart Ralston’s background and career as a chef before analysing his cuisine against the criteria Michelin use for awarding a star. Aizle currently enjoys 6/10 in the Good Food Guide and is aspiring to a first star.

[Chef/Owner of Aizle, Stuart Ralston]

Cooking is in Stuart’s blood. His inspiration to become a chef came from his parents and brother, all of whom were chefs. Growing up in an environment of restaurants and hotels, he started working for his father at the age of 13 as a kitchen porter. From 16, he began to take the industry more seriously, gaining placements in other leading Scottish restaurants. Ian McNaught at Roman Camp and David Williams at Greywalls in Guillane became his teachers and mentors. Stuart also had experience at Inverlochy Castle. Aspirationally, Stuart’s inspiration was Gordon Ramsay, whose blossoming career he avidly followed, with a keen desire to work for him.

This finally happened when he trialled at Gordon Ramsay at the Connaught. Then came Stuart’s biggest break when he was transferred to Ramsay’s eponymous two Michelin starred restaurant in New York. Over two years, he was able to work in all sections, moving from commis chef to senior chef de partie. This huge leap in his career, in a team who progressed to become top chefs around the world, and with connections made through Gordon Ramsay, boosted Stuart’s reputation and international standing. Thus he was offered jobs in two and three star New York restaurants, settling in a position at the three Michelin starred Jean-Georges. This was cut short by the financial crisis, but he gained another top position executive chef at the exclusive Core Club.

After five years in the Big Apple, Stuart returned to the UK, being appointed Head Chef at Lower Slaughter Manor where he gained three AA rosettes and was inspected for a Michelin star. However, a year later, the company went out of business, a bittersweet moment as coincidentally he was offered the Head Chef position at the opulent, world-famous Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados. He stayed there for three years, part of a culinary team that oversaw five kitchens with 120 chefs and massive revenues.

Having been away from Scotland for ten years, Stuart decided to make his name in his homeland, and Edinburgh in particular, where leading chefs such as Tom Kitchin and Martin Wishart had given the capital gastronomic credibility in the buzzing restaurant scene.

Passionate about being independent, finances enabled him to open Aizle in Edinburgh’s Southside without the need for investors. “Humble, small and low key” – the opposite of Sandy Lane – it made a quick impact as a tasting menu only restaurant, the first in Edinburgh. Over five and a half years he has gained a large and loyal clientele, demonstrating that a no-choice menu can have wide appeal if done well. Consequently, amongst other accolades, Aizle has been voted fifth best restaurant in the UK and second best in Edinburgh by Trip Advisor. After three years of inclusion in the Good Food Guide, the 2020 edition has finally appreciated the hard work and incremental changes it has made over time, awarding the highest mark so far of 6/10.

Aizle’s pastel blue frontage with large picture windows displays an ingenious nature inspired graphic design which incorporates the restaurant’s name above the entrance. Inside, the shades of blue, grey and cream give a warm, comforting feel. Décor in the high ceiling room is kept to a minimum, the main features being two blackboards listing the ingredients of the dishes on the menu. Clearly, the focus is on the food, with few distractions. Even the menu cannot be read until the end of the meal, when it is handed to the diner. Instead, the engaging and knowledgeable staff, who may include the person who cooked it, present and explain each dish as it arrives.

The rest of this feature will analyse Stuart Ralston’s cuisine against aspects of the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a Michelin star: cooking techniques employed; balance and harmony in flavour; consistency across the menu and over time; provenance of ingredients; and value for money

Stuart uses mainly classical techniques with modern flavour combinations. A simple chocolate mousse is executed in a classical way involving emulsification and is often paired with salty, umami Japanese elements. Aged beef with cherry mustard, involving barbequing and grilling on a Japanese grill to produce a simplistic beautiful flavour has been skilfully employed, hence the dish is available often throughout the year. Conversely, a summer dish of Cod with sweet corn succotash with katsuobushi sauce, involves the classical techniques of fermentation and pureeing.

Sous vide is not employed on a day to day basis.  It is never used to cook fish. Game birds are roasted whole. Cooking meat and fish in a pan is the preferred classical method. Confidence, and actually being present to ensure precise timing, is essential for success. As Stuart is present at every service, consistency is guaranteed. He agrees that sous vide can be employed successfully in the highest level restaurants but can be misused in lesser establishments.

Whilst balance and harmony are taken into account in the creation of a new dish and menu, Stuart believes some ingredients in a dish may be (say) dominantly rich or acidic with good reason, to allow the flavours and profile to be bold. This does not mean a dish cannot be in equilibrium.

Consider the first, labour intensive, snack on the tasting menu: fresh, very rich goat’s curd encased in a sweet, delicate beetroot glass tube, with an acidic gel in the middle which helps balance the other two elements. Pine nuts add an interesting harmonious background. Essentially sweet and rich, a combination common with cheese, such as cheese and chutney, this snack is a successful “one bite, one shot opener which grabs the diner’s attention at the start of the meal.”

At the other end of the meal is chocolate mousse. The main ingredient from the celebrated Norman chocolatier, Michel Cluizel, has a malty, salty, caramel quality. It rests on Black sugar from Okinawa reduced right down with Scottish whiskey. A wafer thin nut praline is topped with Kinako ice cream of roasted soya bean flower. These elements give a quite tonal and therefore balanced character, with the combination of chocolate, nuts, milk and salt, giving a balanced, rich and comforting feel.

Harmony and balance across the whole menu is also carefully considered in terms of tastes, textures, temperatures and range of ingredients. Dishes also progress from small to large.

The second snack, sweet potato with teryaki and sesame is hot and fried, comforting and warming, with a very different robust profile.

By contrast, the third snack, a crab tartlet with caviar and apple is luxurious with delicately thin filo pastry

The first course always highlights a vegetable, in this case a super comforting and fragrantly luxurious dish of girolles served with ricotta tortellini, aged parmesan and Italian black truffle.

Bread is served as the next course to balance the previous smaller snacks and as a prelude to the more substantial fish and meat courses.  Served by the pastry chef, the mother base of the sourdough named Roger is four and a half years old. The warm rolls are flavoured with caramelised onion, lemon thyme and black garlic and served with cultured butter made in house.

The fish and meat courses flow naturally in succession:

Isle of Gigha halibut with Shetland mussels and Ken Holland broccoli, employs prime ingredients precisely timed to maximise their inherent delicate flavours

A game dish features breast of wild partridge topped with smoked sausage haggis and served with cabbage, Pommes Anna and a blackberry gel captured more robust, earthy flavours and textures.

Vacherin Mont d’Or baked with Edinburgh blossom honey, and served with quince purée and homemade focaccia, provides a stimulating savoury and sweet, hot and cold cheese course

To balance this, a pre dessert of sea buckthorn (reduced down with sugar and carrot juice to moderate it is intense sharpness), yoghurt and lemon balm is suitably cold and acidic to act as a palate cleanser before the final rich dessert.

A rich chocolate mousse, described above, and dainty petit fours complete this sensational menu.

Consistency at a basic level involves everything being weighed: for instance, fish portions at 65 grams, bread rolls at 55 grams, tartlets have the same amount of crab and are of the same size and shape.

Consistency in standards is achieved by ensuring each chef cooks at the same station in each of the four open evenings, Wednesday to Saturday. Changes only occur when Stuart is convinced mastery has been achieved in his or her section. Closing three days a week ensures staff are not exhausted, retaining their energy, passion and enthusiasm. The team is energised as they feel ownership of the restaurant as part of a team with important responsibilities. Everyone takes holidays at the same time to negate any problems if Stuart is absent. Overseeing the service each day, Stuart himself ensures that no dishes leave the passe without his approval.

Consistency with suppliers is achieved by good relations built over 10 to 15 years. They know the high quality Stuart demands. Only big fish are bought for flavour and only wild fish and game are sourced. Daily orders are checked to ensure quality, size and presentation..

At Aizle, Scotland’s bounteous larder is exploited to the full for its seasonal menus: Gigha halibut, Shetland mussels, wild partridge, girolles, blackberries, sea buckthorn and blossom honey all feature in the autumn menu. Other top quality and seasonal ingredients are sourced from notable suppliers: broccoli from specialist grower Ken Holland’s farm in Northumberland; Aged Parmesan and black truffle from Italy; and Vacherin Mont d’Or and Martin Cluizel chocolate from France. Given Stuart’s extensive knowledge of Far Eastern ingredients, Katsuobushi, Okinawa black sugar and Kinako, roasted soya bean flour, are sourced from Japan. As mentioned above, daily deliveries are thoroughly checked for quality, size and presentation.

Stuart sees value for money partly in terms of how people feel when they leave a restaurant: have they got something for their money; have they been looked after; have they been impressed with the standard of ingredients? Examining the list above, wild fish and game, caviar, truffles, expensive French cheese and chocolate are quality, luxury ingredients that come at a cost which most guests appreciate. That many are repeat customers, some having eaten at Aizle 40 to 50 times over five years, is testament to its success in this respect. From an economics point of view, there has to be value in the meal, as certain costs have to be achieved, these being pushed to the limit in buying the best yet keeping the restaurant sustainable. Overall, a huge effort is made at Aizle, including learning from previous mistakes, to achieve value for money at its price point.

Having cooked for 23 years, Stuart’s energies at the age of 36 are still undiminished. Indeed, August this year saw the opening of his second restaurant, Noto, in Thistle Street. More casual than Aizle, and open all week, it has a neighbourhood feel. Serving a small plates menu with Asian influences, Noto has received good reviews, keeping its strong team constantly busy serving 48 covers with 110 on Saturdays. Stuart aims to keep cooking at Aizle, but splits his time between the two restaurants, empowering managers and senior staff, who have been loyal to the company. In the long term, perhaps another restaurant on the lines of Noto may be envisaged.

[Richard (chef de partie), Danielle (chef de partie) Stuart Ralston (chef owner), Tobias (pastry)]

Aizle, which means a “burning coal, a glowing hot ember, a spark” will undoubtedly continue to burn bright. Stuart’s investment in people, at Aizle and at Noto, has clearly paid dividends. With its team of four chefs and four front of house serving fifteen tables, Aizle has gone from strength to strength.  It will remain Stuart’s main focus of attention, as he cooks here each service. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its meal and meeting with Stuart and will look forward to the restaurant’s increased recognition in the national restaurant guides. A Michelin star cannot be too far away.

Review: MacDonald Holyrood Hotel, Surf and Turf Concept (Nov 2019)

Posted on: November 22nd, 2019 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

“Scottish fish and seafood is by far the best in the world…Aberdeen Angus…it’s the most sought after beef on the world.” Such is bold claim on the menu of Surf and Turf, the new dining concept at the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel.

For those of a mature age, the term “Surf and Turf” may evoke memories of blackened, well done steaks of dubious origin, and seafood the texture of cotton wool, the mainstay of a well-known Steakhouse chain in the 1960s and 70s.

This could be no further from the truth with the Surf and Turf concept where great care has been taken in sourcing the finest quality Scottish ingredients and constructing an appealing, adventurous menu. Originally trialled at Macdonald Rusacks Hotel in St Andrews, the Surf and Turf menu is the creation of Glenn Roach, regional executive chef for the hotel group.

[Concept Creator Executive Head Chef Glenn Roach]

A runaway success, the concept was also transferred to the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel in August 2019.

Head Chef Dan Mellor who heads the kitchens has 17 years’ experience cooking in Edinburgh hotels, most recently at The Raeburn in Stockbridge where he spent two years. He has overseen the transition from the previous fine dining restaurant to Surf and Turf which started in August 2019. Popular with American guests during the Edinburgh Festival, custom has picked up since then, confirming the concept’s winning formula with guests.

At the heart of the menu are the signature dishes, 21 day aged rump, rib eye, sirloin and fillet steaks sold by weight, 200 grams to a kilo! Adding seafood – lobster, king prawns or scallops – creates a dish where the succulence of beef and freshness of seafood create a harmonious combination of tastes and textures..

But the menu is far more than this, incorporating an exciting range of dishes from simple to luxurious. Mini tacos of chilli beef, avocado, sour cream and chills and lobster arancini appear in the “Bites and Starters” section; a charcuterie platter is an option on the “From the Farm” section; Venison Wellington appears the “Classics” section; and sweet potato gnocchi and wild mushroom risotto are choices on the “Vegetarian” section.

Given the quality of the ingredients and the skill required in cooking, prices are realistic: starters range from £4 to £7; Classics £15 to £50 (Venison Wellington for two); and fish dishes £15 to £17. Sides are £3.50 to £6 and sauces for steaks £3 to £3.50. From the Surf and Turf signatures, a 200 gram rib eye costs £27; paired with king prawns an extra £9.

Many fish and meat dishes require precise timing and adequate resting to maximise flavour and texture. This applies even more to expensive cuts of beef and fresh seafood which command premium prices. In this respect Surf and Turf scores highly, fully respecting the inherent qualities of first class produce. A degree of invention and creativity is also evident in some of the other options, where ingredients complement each other. Presentation is clean, with no overcrowding of the plate.

Although the restaurant has been rebranded, the actual décor and furnishings remain the same. Not that the room needed changing. The spacious wooden floored dining room has an inevitable corporate feel but is no less attractive for that. With a bar at one end, it is dressed in warming tones of brown, grey and cream, with well positioned wall and spotlighting. Comfortable leather banquettes and smart curved backed dining chairs are arranged around well-spaced, marble or wooden topped tables, providing a maximum of 80 covers.

A midweek dinner in November proved an enjoyable experience

A starter of beetroot cured halibut saw delicate slices of flaky white flesh, tinged with the colour of the marinade which did not mask the deliciously creamy flavour of the fish.  Pickled shallots added a gentle acidity which balanced the sweetness of the beetroot puree dots. Celeriac remoulade gave a contrasting texture and charred lime a slight bitterness. Served on a white plate, this was a vibrantly coloured dish of ingredients which complemented each other well.

Another starter of seared scallops was accurately timed to produce a caramelised crust and soft, translucent flesh. The saltiness of samphire worked as a seasoning, balancing the sweetness of the scallops, and giving a crisp texture. Dressed with caviar, salmon roe and curried cauliflower puree, which contrasted in temperature and colour, and finished with a chive oil, this was another well executed, visually attractive dish.

Next came a carnivore’s delight: a main course of a 350 gram of 21 day aged rib eye. With a beautifully seared crust, it was cooked medium rare to retain succulence and optimise flavour. Judicious seasoning and precise grilling and resting to reach the correct temperature did full justice to this popular, well marbled cut of meat.  Served with cherry vine tomatoes, caramelised shallot, skin on French fries, the dish was finished with a deeply rich, piquant peppercorn sauce.

The other main course was a surf and turf combination of three elements. It was pleasing to see the much neglected hake employed here to good effect. A fillet of this soft textured, mild flavoured fillet was correctly cooked and served with a croquette of beef shin and seared king scallop. The croquette had a crisp coating and hot creamed potato filling but needed a little more of the delicious shin. The scallop itself was well executed and rested on a caper and pomegranate dressing which gave salty and sweet flavours. Perhaps dish needed some acidity to balance these and lift the seafood elements. Swirls and dots of spinach puree added visual impact.

Two  competent desserts finished the meal

Sticky date pudding was well flavoured, light and not too rich. The indulgent element was given by the butterscotch sauce which, thankfully, was not oversweet. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was smooth and velvety and the apple crisp gave texture 

Apple soufflé with calvados, cooked in a shallow dish instead of a ramekin, had an airy lightness and perfect texture with no hint of egginess. Added sweetness and contrasting texture was given by finely diced apple and an apple crisp.  A little more calvados would have taken this dessert to an even higher level. In its 20th anniversary year, the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel has adapted its restaurant offering away from fine dining to the more popular alternative of Surf and Turf, with a more informal, relaxed service. Now only it its fourth month, the rebranding has already shown signs of success with a growing clientele. Fine Dining Guide wishes the new concept continued success and will follow its progress with interest.

Pub Review: The Plough Inn, Cold Aston. (October 2019)

Posted on: October 28th, 2019 by Simon Carter & Daniel Darwood

The Plough Inn lies in the centre of the beautiful Gloucestershire village of Cold Aston. Accessed from a single track road off the A249, between Stow and Cirencester, the honey coloured stone walled, slate roofed buildings and wide open spaces typify the near idyllic attractions of Cotswold village life. Little wonder that roughly 30% of current residents are second homeowners.

This is where owner Oxford graduate and management consultant Thomas Hughes and his partner Josie have chosen to raise a family and establish a business which gives full expression to their passions of food, drink, hospitality and design. Thomas’s previous experience, including leading roles at the Wheatsheaf Inn, Northleach and at Peter de Savary’s Cary Arms and Spa in Devon, has clearly stood him in good stead.

The Hughes took over in 2017, adding to the extensive renovation which had already taken place under the previous ownership. In particular, the three renovated and decorated ensuite double bedrooms have allowed Josie to demonstrate her talents in this field. 

Dating from 1687, The Plough Inn retains many of its older features. In the front half of the building there are heavy oak doors, flagstone floor, mullioned windows, an inglenook fireplace, and a low beamed ceiling with candle and wall lighting. Renovation in the brighter back dining area beyond the bar includes wooden flooring, French windows, skylights, spotlighting and splashes of designer wallpaper. These contemporary touches harmonise with the historic charm of the Grade 2 listed building. Well-spaced striped pine tables accommodate up to 85 diners, whilst the outside terraces, complete with Rattan furniture and parasols, allow for al fresco dining.

[Chris Hopkinson Barman; Thomas Hughes owner; Jonathan Grey chef]

Thomas Hughes and his chef, who has worked with Michelin starred John Burton-Race, have designed an attractive food and beverage offering which has already attracted a loyal following, including those from the two neighbouring villages which lack a hostelry. Being close to Bourton-on-the-Water and Northleach, The Plough can also gain custom from those who prefer village to town pubs.  

A sophisticated beverage selection is much in evidence. As a Free House, a wide range of craft beers and real ales is on offer.

The wine list has a good selection from Old and New Worlds which avoids greedy mark ups. The range of spirits, especially gin, is impressive. Also of interest are the “Nightcaps” such as the White Russian of Black Cow Vodka, Kahlu and cream.

The provenance of high quality local ingredients is a priority: Cotswold leg bar eggs, local wild mushrooms, Rollright Chipping Norton cheese and Gloucester Old Spot pork all featured on the current menu. 30+ day aged ruby red steaks and other meat products are sourced from Martin’s Meats and Ruby and White where animal welfare is important. Fish is supplied daily from the renowned Kingfishers of Brixham. There are reliable local suppliers of seasonal game and vegetables.

Bar snacks such as chicken wings with harissa glaze (£5.50) or Padron peppers with olive oil and salt (£4.00) are available to those who prefer a lighter bite.

The seasonally changing carte is competitively priced, offering a good range of traditional pub classics with more innovative dishes. Vegetarians and pescatarians are also have an embarrassment of choice.

On the current Autumn menu eight starters priced £7.50 to £9 feature popular dishes such as Devilled kidneys and Steak tartare alongside the more adventurous Palourde clams with nduja, smoked lovage and spring onions. There are seven mains, £12.50 to £18, two salads, £15-£16, two steak dishes, £17 to £24, with a choice of sauces, and two sharing dishes, cote de beouf or whole sea bass with accompaniments, £60 and £35 respectively. Five desserts come at £6.60 each with ice creams and sorbets at £2 per scoop. Three English cheeses from a choice of five are priced at £9.00. At weekends two or three specials are added to the menu.

A good value weekday lunchtime fixed priced menu offers two courses or three courses £15 or £17 respectively.

In addition, there are special deals: Steak nights on Tuesday (steak frites for two and a bottle of house red for £30); Winter Warmer Wednesdays (e.g. pie, coq au vin, beef bourguignon for two and a house drink for £30); and Dirty Thursday ( a sharing BBQ platter – all home produced – and a can of craft beer for £15 per person).

Given the quality of the ingredients and the expertise of the kitchen, the pricing is keenly judged and weighs favourably with similar establishments in this highly competitive field.

The skills shown in kitchen are high. Dishes are precisely timed and balanced in their ingredient composition, taste and texture. Sauces benefit from stocks made from scratch and meat dishes, in particular, benefit from the use of a “Bertha” charcoal fired oven, which is also used as an in-house smoker. Overall, this is honest, robust cooking with a degree of flair.

A warm greeting from owner Thomas Hughes on our Friday lunchtime made us feel most welcome. Throughout the meal, the service was friendly, informative and unobtrusive.

A charcuterie board starter was generous in quantity and attractive in presentation. Suffolk chorizo had a gentle smokiness and not overpowering spice; the sweet earthy flavour of venison salami was enhanced by an appropriate amount of fat; pulled barbequed pork  was rich and indulgent; celeriac remoulade added a lively mustardy crunch; and cornichons gave a tart, mildly sweet freshness. Served with toasted sourdough and good quality butter, this was a meal in itself.

Simpler, but equally delicious was a dish of sauteed Chanterelles on toasted sourdough topped with a Cotswold Legbar fried egg. The meaty textured mushroom with its velvety consistency had a rich, earthy flavour with a hint of pepperiness. The creamy, dense flavoured egg yolk served as a sauce whilst the toasted bread gave contrast in taste and texture. The shaved black truffle did not overwhelm, but the dish did not need this expensive ingredient.

The cooking of a flavoursome Tomahawk pork chop in a main course was accurately timed in the Bertha oven to retain its moisture and succulence. A wholegrain mustard sauce cut the richness of the meat. Bubble and squeak, tender stem broccoli and green beans were well judged accompaniments to this hearty, comforting dish.

A schnitzel of guinea fowl breast ran the risk of becoming too dry if not treated with care. As it was, the cooking was well judged, leading to a soft, moist interior and crisp crumbed exterior. The gentle gaminess of the bird was lifted by a butter and caper sauce which gave richness and a moderate piquancy. Parmentier potatoes were well-seasoned and seasonal greens properly cooked to al dente texture.

Two contrasting desserts were selected

Warm sticky date pudding, moist and fluffy, floated on a rich butterscotch sauce partnered with a velvety smooth vanilla ice cream. This indulgent dish of contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures has proved an irresistible dessert in many restaurants, and here was no exception.

Cotswold gin and tonic cheesecake was an innovative take on a popular dessert. It might have been improved with less gelatine and more acidity, the small pieces of fresh lime being insufficient to boost the taste. Although the shards of meringue gave contrasting texture and sweetness, the main element of this dessert needed a lift.

Despite this hiccup, our visit to the Plough Inn was an overall success. The buzz of contented diners on a busy Friday afternoon was a testament to the popularity it has already gained.  A great deal of investment and hard work has been ploughed – excuse the pun – into this exciting addition to the Cotswold dining scene. Fine Dining Guide hopes to visit again to sample other items – perhaps on one of the special nights – and may even book an overnight stay. In the meantime, we will follow its progress with interest.