It’s a brave chef who leaves his Michelin starred restaurant in the provinces to undertake a guest slot in the great metropolis. With an unfamiliar kitchen, new brigade and front of house team, let alone a different clientele, the exercise is fraught with potential difficulties. Reputations painstakingly developed over years might be ruined in the same number of days.

Mark Poynton of Alimentum in Cambridge, is one such chef who has seized the opportunity – along with the risks – to showcase his cuisine to a wider audience at the Landmark Hotel; and from the outstanding meal Fine Dining Guide sampled early into his three week stay, he is doing it with great aplomb. That he has managed to offer two tasting menus as well as the carte in a new, albeit temporary, environment, is a testament to his organizational and leadership abilities as well as his expertise as a chef. Indeed, he has only brought with him one of his kitchen team and his restaurant manager.

The grand indoor setting of the Winter Garden, complete with palm trees and glass roof high above the atrium, could hardly be more different from the contemporary designer surroundings of his 60 cover restaurant in Cambridge. Opened in 2007, Mark joined Alimentum as chef patron in 2008, the year it was awarded three AA rosettes. It has subsequently been listed amongst The Good Food Guide’s 60 best UK restaurants and gained a highly coveted Michelin star in the 2013 guide.

Such accolades reward the food’s inventive artistry, masterly precision, and meticulous attention to detail. How refreshing to hear Mark describe his cooking as “complex, carefully crafted and very technical.” His labour intensive efforts, aided by the latest culinary technology, emphasize purity of taste with balance of flavours, textures and temperatures. The presentation of his dishes is exquisite.

Amongst his influences is Daniel Clifford of the two Michelin starred Midsummer House, where Mark was head chef before coming to Alimentum. Like Mark, Daniel also guested in London – at the Cube at the Royal Albert Hall.

A special seasonal tasting menu began with excellent canapés of mini gougeres generously filled with a tangy soft cheese.

An amuse-bouche of parsnip and apple veloute, laced with a mere hint of truffle oil, was light and well flavoured. Caramelised parsnip popcorn was a nice innovative touch.

Scallop ceviche was beautifully delicate and fresh tasting. The apple marinade gave a sweetness countered by a spicy horseradish granite which enlivened the whole dish. By avoiding an excess of citrus that can often ruin a ceviche, this dish proved to be a brilliant balance of tastes, textures and temperatures. The crisp, clean mineral qualities of the white wine added to the enjoyment of this course.  (Wine: Albarino, Rias Baixas ,Galicia, Spain, 2010)

A quennel of venison tartar was meltingly soft and well-seasoned. The accompanying “Textures of leek” included the charred white stem and a burnt leek puree which gave a slight bitterness which married well with the gentle, gamey flavour of the meat.  The often discarded green leaves of the leek were used in a decorative flourish. Visually stunning, this dish was another harmonious essay in taste and texture. The full bodied red wine, with not overpowering spicy and black fruit notes, went well with this course. (Wine : Shiraz, Stonemason, Ballast Stone Estate Currency Creek, Australia, 2010)

The next course proved to be a veritable masterclass of fish cookery. A tranche of eel benefited from its light smoke which showed its rich oily flavour and firm texture to full advantage. Perched on a bed of lightly cooked cabbage it was surrounded by a light but deeply flavoured broth. Trompette mushrooms gave a delicate, chewy texture whilst the whole dish was lifted by the heady aroma of white truffle shavings. The white wine, with is lively acidic note was nicely judged pairing. (Wine: Reisling, Bischofliche Weinguter Triea Mosel, Germany, 2011)

The meat course was another tour de force of precise, innovative cooking. A tournedos of sirloin was tender, moist and bursting with flavour. The star of dish, however, was a croquette of oxtail oozing with unctuous richness – a real taste explosion in the mouth. Hazelnut praline added a sweet textural element that worked surprisingly well with the beef. With its pureed vegetable garnishes and a red wine sauce, this was a highly satisfying composition. This course needed a full bodied red which the spicy Chateauneuf du Pape fulfilled. (Wine : Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Chemin, Revoltier Southern Rhône, France, 2010)

For those who cannot decide between cheese and dessert, “Perl las ice cream with Waldorf textures” could prove ideal. The strong but delicate Welsh blue cheese formed the basis of a silky smooth ice cream as well as being crumbled as part of the Waldorf textures. This playful interpretation of the classic salad also included celery jellies, apple cubes, walnuts and semi dried grapes. (Wine : Taylors 10 year tawny port)

Three accomplished desserts all strong on technique, flavour, texture and modern presentation, followed in quick and mouth-watering succession. The sommelier excelled in the difficult task of matching wines with such a range, all of which contained an iced element.

A pre dessert comprised baked white chocolate with refreshing ginger beer granite.

An intriguing “Yogurt baked, coffee and Baileys” featured luscious smooth ice creams spiked with shards of sugar tuiles (Wine: Coteaux du Layon, ‘vieilles vignes’ Loire Valley, France, 2009)

An intense passion fruit sorbet and puree worked well with crisp honeycomb and amoretti.  (Wine : Jurancon, Domaine, Cauhape, ‘Octobre’ Jurancon, France, 2010)

Finally, a deliciously moist and light pistachio cake was paired with well flavoured apricot sorbet and enhanced by Amaretto foam.

Overall, this meal exhibited cooking of a high order, with strengths in every department. It reflected Mark’s passion as a driven chef whose creative imagination is matched by the finely tuned skills needed to make his ideas work. It is London’s loss that his time at The Landmark is so short, which in itself justifies a drive up the M11 to eat at his own restaurant. Fine Dining Guide hopes to visit Cambridge soon and will follow Marks’ career with interest.

The palatial scale and rich decor of The Ritz Restaurant never fail to evoke a feeling of wonder and delight. Elegant Louis XVI furniture, sumptuous drapes and grand sculptures complement the majestic rococo design perfectly. The whole room, with its sea of gold, white and red, is a work of art in itself. In daytime, the massive floor–to-ceiling French windows flood the room with natural light. At night, the magnificent chandelier and wall lighting emit a wonderful, serene glow which illuminates the room in all its glory.

The fine cooking of John Williams and his team in the kitchen, together with the seamless service of the front of house team, do full justice to the beauty of these surroundings. Everything is carefully synchronised to provide guests with a truly memorable experience.

A dinner in early November began with well made canapes: steak tartare served on crisp bread had a piquant, spicy kick; smoked salmon yogurt on tiny meringues simply melted in the mouth; and prawn crackers with Marie Rose sauce were a playful, flavoursome interpretation of the classic starter.

A ballotine of goose liver had been expertly marinated, poached, rolled and chilled to produce a velvety texture and mild, creamy liver flavour. Its pistachio crust gave textural contrast, whilst the whole dish was lifted by two textures of apple – a smooth puree and scooped balls enrobed in a spiced port sauce. The sweet, aromatic and gently sparkling Riesling went well with this rich first course.  (Wine: Riesling Scharzhof, Egon Muller. 2011, Mosel, Germany)

For our next course of native lobster we were treated to the rare delight of gueridon service.  This wonderful piece of restaurant theatre, so rarely seen elsewhere but one in which The Ritz excels, captures the attention of even the most garrulous diner. Restaurant Manager Luigi removed the meat from the tail and claws with effortless skill that comes from years of professional training and experience.

The crustacean itself had been steamed en cocotte on a bed of vegetables, infused with ginger, lime and star anise, a process which preserved its natural succulence whilst adding a gentle fragrance. Carrot fondant and puree, together with braised fennel gave contrasting sweetness and texture. A rich, intense bisque like sauce, poured at the table, bought the elements together. The dry, mineral qualities of the chosen Chardonnay was another pleasing match.  (Wine: Chardonnay Hamilton Russell Vineyard, 2011, Walker Bay, South Africa)

A “surf and turf” course featured butter poached turbot, precisely timed to retain its moist, firm texture and delicate, sweet flavour. Perched on top was a breaded, soft boiled deep fried hen’s egg, the yolk of which provided a rich natural sauce for the fish. Juxaposed to this but working well with the fish was unctuously sticky oxtail, slow braised in red wine, deboned and shredded. An intensely flavoured cep puree and sauted girolles added a deep earthiness. The rich, elegant smoothness of the powerful Sauvignon did full justice this composite dish.  (Wine: Sancerre Blanc, “Les Caillottes”, Pascal Joliver , 2011, Loire Valley, France)

 Venison Wellington, again served in gueridon style, proved a triumph of taste and texture.

The crisp, buttery latticed topped pastry and ham and bread crust encased well seasoned, medium rare game. Parsnip puree had a gentle smoky quality which complemented the venison well, whilst the rich, red wine jus lifted by black truffle brought the elements together. As if the dish could not get any better, a shaving of white truffle added a heady fragrance to this tour de force of an autumnal dish. The chosen red wine had a fortified, port-like aroma and rich warm body of berry fruit which stood up to the meat well.  (Wine: Aleano Douro Reserva, Symington family, 2008, Douro, Portugal)

Visually stunning and highly creative desserts have always been one of the highlights of dinner at The Ritz and those served at this meal were no exception.

A well flavoured vanilla yogurt was playfully presented as a stick of striped rock draped with sugared curls. An intense raspberry sorbet with fresh raspberries enlivened with lime enhanced this refreshing dessert. (Wine: Muscat Beaume de Venise, Domaine de Coyaux, 2005, Rhone Valley, France)

No version of deconstructed lemon meringue pie could look as beautiful or taste as good as The Ritz version. Here the soft meringue was placed on top of the crisp pastry, with gently astringent lemon cream piped on top, both being encased in a delicate while chocolate comb. The accompanying verbena and buttermilk sorbet added further zing to the dessert. (Wine: Moscata D’Asti, Sarocco, 2010, Piedmont, Italy)

A layered Amadei chocolate ganache with praline was a masterclass of chocolate confectionary. Tonka bean ice cream gave colour and textural contrast, with a refreshing element which this rich dessert needed. The attention to detail in this dish, as with the other desserts, was astounding.(Wine: Pedro Ximenez, Bodegas, Hidalgo, Spain – sherry)

This is not to say that simpler preparations were unavailable, as seen in the well made croustade of caramelised apple with butterscotch and Muscavado ice cream.

Other aspects of the meal were very satisfying indeed. Service, as usual, was solicitous, informative and unobtrusive. The sommelier demonstrated excellent knowledge and skill in matching some demanding savoury and sweet courses with well-chosen wines.  Melba toast – which has almost disappeared from restaurant tables – provided a lighter alternative to the breads, although these themselves, especially the bacon brioche, were irresistible. Good coffee partnered well dainty petit fours which included crisp macaroons and intense jellies

All this still begs the question as to why The Ritz has not received its much deserved Michelin star. Having visited the restaurant several times, the consistent excellence of the cooking and the increasing but not outlandish creativity cannot be denied. Could there also be an almost perverse inverted snobbery at work which favours the relaxed informality of modern dining and shuns tradition and formality, which are Ritz trademarks? If there is, then it is one of the less attractive features of certain restaurant guides. Surely, there is room for both styles to be recognised and rewarded in the varied world of fine dining.

Our first visit to Auberge du Lac some years ago began with embarrassment: we mistakenly rang the doorbell of the main Brocket Hall residence. Our mistake had been to enter by the wrong entrance to the 540 acre estate, which was easy to do, especially at night, given the paucity of signposts both outside and within the grounds. The staff, who appeared used to re-directing unwary diners, pointed the way to the far side of the grounds.

Housed within the elegantly proportioned, converted hunting lodge overlooking an ornamental lake, few restaurants can match the idyllic, romantic setting of Auberge du Lac. The ground floor bar, with stone fireplace, soft lighting and leather bucket chairs is a comfortable place for pre and post prandial drinks. Downstairs is the conservatory dining room, carpeted with well-spaced tables and fine napery.

The modern French cooking of Michelin chef Phil Thompson is unashamedly complex. Skilled classical techniques are combined with modern approaches – aided by the latest kitchen technology – to produce labour intensive, innovative dishes. Ingredients are the finest, whether local or from further afield: Phil has avoided the tiresome, uncritical bandwagon of “local is best.”

Combinations of ingredients, sometimes with an oriental influence, may surprise, but always work in terms of taste, texture and temperature. Menu descriptions are terse, belying the intricate, multi–layered nature of many dishes. Micro herbs, smears, gels, and scatterings are not mere decorative garnishes but essential components of fully integrated creations. Presentation on a variety of porcelain and stoneware plates and bowls do full justice to key qualities of each dish.

An exciting tasting menu revealed the breadth and depth of Phil Thompson’s cutting edge cuisine.

An amuse bouche of creamy leek and potato mousse was given extra flavour and texture by the addition of smoked haddock and crisp crutons.

A large, plump scallop was perfectly timed to produce a caramelised crust and succulent flesh. The soft fruitiness of roasted pear complemented the bivalve well, whilst a vanilla flavoured puree added a savoury taste and sweet fragrance.

A generous tranche of seared foie gras was unctuous in flavour and velvety in texture.  It was paired with an innovative coconut sponge and garnished with blackberry, the fruity acidity of which cut the richness of the liver. Frozen yoghurt gave the dish the added dimension of coldness which contrasted with the warmth of the delectable offal. The result was a taste explosion in the mouth.

Another successful combination saw earthy, nutty cep mushrooms paired with meltingly rich pig’s head brawn. Although yeast butter added further lushness, the sweet acidity of pickled grapes and peppery kick of watercress gave the dish the balance it needed.

Serving raw seafood might appear a risky strategy, but the tiny Myler prawns – a relatively new ingredient on top end menus – were delicate, sweet and simply dissolved in the mouth. Deeply flavoured roast shrimp dashi complemented the uncooked prawns well. Pink fir apple potato gave substance and texture to this simple yet sophisticated dish.

A granite of tarragon, dressed with apple, beetroot and buttermilk, was a cool, herby palate cleanser which enlivened the taste buds.

How pleasing to see mutton – so often shunned in fine dining restaurants – on the tasting menu.  For those who tire of the ubiquitous lamb, no matter how sweet and tender, this grossly underrated meat delighted with its robust flavour and firm texture. Goat’s cheese added a muted lactic sharpness, whilst charred leek gave a smoky but not overpowering flavour. Autumn truffle shavings lifted the whole dish with a heavenly fungal aroma.

A quennel of Roquefort mousse of smooth consistency was well judged in its tangy flavour and muted pungency.  Quince jelly and a port based sauce added a balancing sweetness.

A pre dessert scoop of toffee apple parfait, beautifully smooth in texture and caramelised in flavour. It came with a well executed sugar tuile and accompanying sorbet.

Fresh figs benefitted from being poached in port which offset their natural blandness, adding a deeply rich sweetness. Their softness was complemented by pain perdu and worked well with an bitter dark chocolate dressing and vibrant citral notes of orange gel. This was another exemplary combination of flavours and textures.

Other aspects of the meal were equally impressive: tiny choux puffs filled with chicken liver parfait were star canapés; a dish of mackerel rillettes was a pleasing alternative to butter for spreading on tomato bread; a delicious smoked bacon brioche had a crisp crust and buttery crumb; and chocolate truffles were skilfully executed.

Service was efficient and well informed. The sommelier chose and presented matching wines from an impressive list. The consummate ease with which she did this reflected knowledge and experience.

Clearly Auberge du Lac is a restaurant of distinction, recognised by high ratings in most of the leading food guides. It remains a mystery why it has recently lost the Michelin star it held since 2009. However, this can only be a temporary aberration, given the accomplished skill and quality ingredients displayed on the tasting menu. We look forward to next year’s guide with interest

This article covers notes from an interview with Lucknam Park’s Michelin starred Executive Chef Hywel Jones, a comprehensive review of the flagship ‘Park Restaurant’ as well as a brief overview of the second restaurant – The Brasserie.  At the time of writing, Head Chef of The Park was Richard Edwards and Head Chef of The Brasserie was Benjamin Taylor.

Executive Chef, Hywel Jones has garnered many accolades for The Park including a Michelin star, held since 2006, Hotel Chef of the Year (2007) and high marks in all the top food guides. Whether talking about his regime in the kitchen, or Welsh venison and Wye Valley second season asparagus, a passion and genuine love of his craft is fully evident. There is also a keen sense of duty, to his kitchen team in particular and to the hotel in general.

Executive Chef - Hywel Jones

With a brigade of 22 to cover both The Park and The Brasserie, each of which has head chefs, he is able to provide opportunities to work in both styles of service. His philosophy of kitchen management, inspired by his mentor David Nicholls, is simple: treat people the way you want to be treated, speak to them as you would your own family, creating a positive environment of mutual respect. In that way, the sum of the parts will perform to its very best.

He reinforces this approach with visits to suppliers of organic produce, recent ones being farms in Wales and Devizes. Here, staff can gain a fuller understanding of their provenance which helps to build a respect for ingredients in the kitchen, stimulating suggestions for their use. The head chefs in both kitchens are encouraged to offer new dishes as specials, which later might be permanently included in the carte.

Although menus reflect the seasons, Hywel is realistic enough to appreciate they have to be altered gradually, not changed wholesale. Indeed, it would be unwise to take certain dishes – like the hugely popular belly pork – off the menu.

Unlike some other (nameless) top chefs, he sees his role not merely as an outlet for gastronomic creativity, to be foisted on diners through a limited range menu. Indeed, the guests’ preferences are paramount, as reflected in the wide choice offered in both restaurants.

Having worked for Macro Pierre White, Nico Ladenis and David Nicholls, Hywel’s forte lies inevitably in the realm of fine dining, for which, he accepts, there will always be a niche market. Nevertheless, he sees the future for eating out lying in a simpler, more casual brasserie style. As he says, “Food does not have to be expensive and complicated to be good”.

That Hywel planned to stay for five years but is now in his ninth speaks volumes about his job satisfaction and commitment. He must be particularly proud that he has mentored two award winning chefs: Hrishikesh Desai, Roux Scholar (2009) and National Chef of the Year (2010); and Mark Stinchcombe, Young Chef of the Year (2010), Young National Chef of the Year (2010, from the Craft Guild of Chefs), and the “Award for Excellence (2010, from the Academy of Culinary Arts)

Not that Hywel wants to stand still: new ideas for the menu constantly evolve, and broader challenges emerge. In the short term he is finalising the November opening of the Cookery School. Next year he aims to extend the vegetable garden and to keep bees on the estate. Two Michelin stars and four AA rosettes would not be unwelcome, provided, he stresses, they are achieved without compromising his overall role at the hotel.

Hywel’s style of cuisine has deep classical French roots, although it is much lighter in composition. High levels of skill are demonstrated in precise timings, using a variety of cooking techniques – with the aid of modern technology- to enhance the inherent qualities of first rate produce.  Combinations of organic, often local, ingredients are harmonious, with the main element always taking centre stage on the plate. Purity of taste, with a strong regard for balance of flavour and texture are emphasised. Contemporary elements such as jellies, purees, foams and micro leaves are used in moderation, but are integral parts of a dish rather than mere decoration. Presentation has clean lines, which add to the overall appeal of the dishes.

The Park Restaurant at Lucknam Park Hotel

The carte offers ample choice with seven starters, seven mains, three desserts and a cheese option. The gourmet menu, with a vegetarian alternative, features seven stages, including an amuse surprise and pre-dessert.

Over drinks in the library, we enjoyed well-made canapés: corned beef hash fritters with a tasty hot filling; delicate cones of salmon rillettes; and crisp black olive straws.

An assiette surprise comprised a plump seared hand dived scallop topped with delicate, lightly cooked myler prawns – a relatively new addition to fine dining menus. The sweetness of the seafood and its butter sauce was balanced by the gentle bitterness of wilted iceberg lettuce.

As an unashamedly indulgent diner, I was pleased to see a torchon made from duck foie gras, which is richer and gamier than its smoother goose counterpart. This labour intensive dish had been skilfully marinated, poached, chilled and rolled, doing full justice to a delectable piece of offal.  The accompaniments showed contemporary techniques applied well: compressed pear had an enhanced colour, texture and flavour, whilst chamomile and Sauternes jelly showed a good balance of floral and sweet elements.  (Wine: Riesling, Eroica, Chateau St Michelle & Dr Loosen, Colombia Valley, Washington state, USA, 2010)

An extra course from the carte came next. A fillet of Devonshire Rose veal was accurately poached to maximise its delicate flavour and melting texture. More intense and richer was its sweetbread (pancreas), the creamy texture of which was lifted by a glaze of pancetta. With a light jus and garnishes of girolles, truffle and marinated salsify, this was a brilliantly conceived and skilfully executed autumnal dish.

A Cornish turbot fillet formed the centre piece of the fish course. Braising allowed the moistness of the firm, succulent flesh to shine through. Plump glazed crayfish, were sweet, soft and tender. Carbohydrate came in the form of crisp cylinder of potato vermicelli. Pak choy and broad beans added colour, texture and flavour, whilst two complementary sauces – an intense bisque, and a fragrant lemongrass butter – brought this tour de force of seafood cooking together. (Wine: Pinot d’Alsace Metiss, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace, France 2009).

The game course featured Brecon venison from Andrew Morgan’s estate. The fully flavoured loin was precisely seared, giving a caramelised crust and medium rare flesh. A rolled lasagne (rotolo) of butternut squash and chestnuts, along with their purees, were earthy and robust. All these were balanced by a not over sweet sloe gin sauce.  (Wine: Cabernet Franc, Broquel, Trapiche Mendoza, Argentina, 2009)

From an impressive selection of British and French cheeses we chose Mont d’Or, Epoisses and Somerset Cheddar, all in perfect condition.  (Wine: Quinta da Romaneira, L.B.V. Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2005)

Layered cucumber jelly, apple and yogurt foam was the refreshing palate cleanser and pre dessert

A trio of desserts was an exquisite marriage of tropical flavours. An intensely flavoured but light passion fruit cream was glazed to produce a wafer thin, bruleed crust; lemon grass sorbet delighted with its herby astringency and velvety texture; and mango and lime leaf mousse, served in a shot glass, captured the essence of the fruit. (Wine: Pinot Gris, Vendage Tardives, Grand Cru Sonnenglanz, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace France, 2006)

Other aspects of the meal deserve praise. Of the breads offered, focaccia, which came in a flower pot, was beautifully moist with a good balance of olive oil, salt and cheese. French baguette and brown bread were equally well executed. Macaroons and truffles served with good coffee showed the same painstaking attention to detail as the preceding courses.

Service was friendly, efficient and attentive without being obtrusive. Claire, our waitress for the evening, spoke enthusiastically about her training at Lucknam Park as part of the 10/10 scheme.

The flight of wines was expertly chosen from the extensive list to complement the dishes perfectly. Both wines and food were introduced concisely, avoiding the extended explanations that can delay their enjoyment.

Overall, dining at The Park was a joy, a highly memorable experience and one for which we, like many guests, are eager to repeat.

Lucknam Park Brasserie

Arriving too early to check in, we decided on an impromptu single course lunch; and we were pleased we did. A classic British dish was raised to lofty heights with three plump, succulent middle white sausages, deep, rich onion gravy, and creamy, velvety smooth mash potatoes. A fillet of hake was perfectly timed to produce soft glistening flakes of sweet flesh. Roasted purple and golden beetroot were flavoursome accompaniments, giving textural contrast.

With its contemporary designed bar, lounge and restaurant areas, The Brasserie is a spacious, stylish venue for casual, all day dining. The open plan kitchen, complete with wood fire oven, offers a surprisingly wide range of dishes, including healthy options – possibly for those using the adjacent spa? There is also an excellent value set lunch available.

Overall Lucknam Park was a first class retreat, not just for the comfort and pampering on offer but also as a gastronomic tour to remember.

Chefs Chris Staines (left) and Olly Pierrepont

For a major tourist destination as famous as Bath, the relative absence of quality restaurants – with a couple of exceptions – is surprising; or perhaps not, given that most tourists, especially day trippers, tend to play safe and go for well known, if mediocre, chains. But for those staying longer, the choice is still disappointingly limited.

In the light of this, the opening of Allium Brasserie is a much needed addition to the Bath restaurant scene. Located in the Abbey Hotel, near the city centre, the interconnecting white walled dining rooms are decorated with large mirrors and abstract murals. Plain, well-spaced tables, attractive purple upholstered seating and linoleum flooring complete the modest, yet pleasingly furnished room

At the helm is Chris Staines, who retained a Michelin star for seven years at Foliage, Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge. Prior to this, he was Chef de Cuisine at Marco Pierre White’s Oak Room, which held 3 Michelin stars. Ably assisted by sous chef Olly Pierrepont, late of Coworth Park, this partnership represents a wealth of experience at the highest levels.

It is a testament to the sheer range and versatility of their skills that Chris and Olly, leading a small but talented team in a cramped kitchen, can produce a variety of dishes to please both casual diners and those seeking more sophisticated, fine dining options. Whatever the choice, precise cooking of carefully sourced ingredients will result in flavoursome, well balanced dishes. Presentation, especially of starters and mains, has clean lines reflecting conscious artistry. Food influences are world-wide and portions are generous

All day dining from 12.00 noon to 9.00 includes snacks (£3.50 to £4.00), salads and starters (£7.50 to £9.50) mains (£14 to £24), and desserts and cheese. An excellent set lunch menu (£14.95 for two courses) and afternoon tea are also available.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a week day lunchtime to sample a selection from the main menu. An accomplished sourdough rye bread had a good bake, with a crisp crust and firm crumb. Four snacks immediately impressed.

Mandarin segments were the perfect vehicle for shrimp jam, which combined sweet, sour and spicy flavours. Spiked with chilli, peanuts and coriander, this engaged the taste buds full on.

Serrano ham “Croquetas” featured breaded croquettes packed with Pata negra Spanish ham. Fresh from the deep fryer, these had a hot, moist and flavoursome interior

Sticky barbeque pork ribs were enlivened with a sprinkling of  of spring onions and chilli.

Quail Scotch eggs were perfectly timed to produce a soft, blushing yolk encased in succulent middle white pork sausage meat. Apple chutney cut the richness of this dish perfectly.

Be warned: the size of starter dishes can be the same as main courses in other restaurants.

The first was an innovative celeriac soup garnished with a “Waldorf salad” of apple, celery and caramelised walnuts. Atlantic prawns added flavour and textural contrast, whilst a chestnut cream added further richness

Vegetarians and carnivores alike could not fail to be impressed by the Salad of Priory farm autumn vegetables. A selection of braised autumn root vegetables and wafer thin slices of deep fried Jerusalem artichoke were dressed with candied pears, sherry vinegar and pickled walnuts. This dish was a triumphant balance of savoury, sharp and sweet flavours with contrasting soft and crisp textures.

A fish starter was another excellent harmonious combination. “Loch Duart” salmon combined the sweet and salty elements of its miso cure in equal measure. A sesame crust added flavour and contrasting texture. A deep fried fritter retained the ozone freshness of the oyster within and pickled cucumber, grapefruit and wasabi dressing gave a fresh, lively kick. Served on a dark plate garnished with curls of mouli, this dish was also visually stunning.

Roast quail, well timed to retain its moist flesh, was enhanced by a glazed chilli caramel, giving it a sweet and spicy lift. Chinese cabbage, hearts of palm, lychees, peanuts and coriander garnishes all contributed to the success of this dish

Both main courses demonstrated considerable skill and finesse in handling top rate produce. Here was the excellence that gained Chris Staines a Michelin star earlier in his career.

Roasted grey leg partridge was timed to allow its gentle gamey flavour and soft texture to shine through. Wet polenta, poached quince and deep fired sage leaves added savoury, sweet and herby elements bought together with the bird by an intense sauce of roasting juices thickened with chicken livers and spiked with chilli.

In my view, sustainable Pollock has rarely, in terms of taste and texture, been an equal substitute for endangered cod. The fillet cooked at Allium was a delightful exception: its soft, glistening white flakes and pronounced flavour were a revelation. The soda bread crust added texture, whilst smoked leeks, mashed potato and taramasalata sauce complemented the fish well.

Replete with good things, we were unable to sample the desserts. There could be little doubt, given past experience at Foliage and Coworth Park,  they would of the same high standard as the savoury courses. Lychee panna cotta, pineapple, mango and lemon grass granite or mille feuille of caramelised apple, crème mousseline, cider jelly with caramel ice cream both sounded extremely tempting. There was an embarrassment of choice of two more desserts or a selection of cheeses

Other aspects of Allium warrant attention. The wine list has range from the New and Old World  at competitive prices the  bottle and glass. Service is efficient, friendly and well informed.

Overall, Allium deserves the success it has already gained locally and needs to be appreciated by those from further afield. The “Brasserie” tag understates the quality of the cooking even if it represents the overall style. In The Great Bath Feast of 2012, Allium  attracted Tom Kerridge of the Hand and Flowers as a guest chef. Restaurant critic Giles Coren recently launched his book How to Eat here. We will watch its progress in Bath with interest.