Father and son team - Simon & Dean Bonwick

Postscript: Simon and Dean Bonwick have subsequently moved on from The Half Moon at Cuxham to take up positions respectively as a Private Chef and front of house at a Michelin three star address.  Fine Dining Guide wish them every success in their next adventures!

Father and son Simon and Dean Bonwick recently embarked on an exciting new venture in Cuxham, a tiny hamlet deep in the countryside between Henley and Oxford. Under the new ownership of the Radhost group, they have taken over the Half Moon, a delightful 300 year inn with thatched roof, low beamed ceilings, stone floors and original fireplaces. With two dining areas separated by a central bar, they aim to offer high quality food and drink, served informally, in comfortable, relaxed surroundings. Whilst the concept is hardly original amongst food led pubs, the execution can so often be found wanting. Happily, this was not the case when Fine Dining Guide visited the Half Moon on a Tuesday evening in early October.

Not that this should be a surprise given the pedigree of those at the helm. Head chef Simon Bonwick has twenty years experience, most recently at The Black Boy in Hurley and The Three Tuns in Henley, both of which were recognised in major food guides. Manager Dean’s CV includes incomparable front of house experience at the Michelin starred Waterside Inn and Les Pres de Eugenie in France.

Connoisseurs of beer, wines and spirits will be enthused by the range craft beers, cask ales, the small slate of fine and rare vintages, English champagnes, single malts and rare eau de vies. The extensive list also offers wine by the glass and carafe

However, the main attraction is the daily changing menu offering five options in each course, supplemented by fresh fish and game specials. Given the quality of the cooking and the generous portion sizes, prices are eminently reasonable: starters are £4 to £7; mains £11 to £15; and desserts £5.50. An excellent value two course set lunch is a mere £10.

Using the finest of seasonal and local ingredients, Simon Bonwick’s cooking, based on classical techniques with occasional Middle Eastern influences, exhibits strong, robust flavours, harmonious combinations, precise timing and simple, elegant presentation.

Our menu comprised mixture of dishes from the menu and specials of the day

A first course saw herb flecked risotto cooked to a well judged, creamy consistency garnished with sauted wild mushrooms, the deep earthiness and sublime fragrance of which balanced the soft texture and delicate flavour of the rice. (Wine: Veuve Clicquot Rose, 2004)

Next came a generously sliced torchon of foie gras. This delectable piece of offal, skilfully marinated, poached, chilled and rolled, had a silky buttery texture and mild creamy liver flavour. It sat on a bed of Puy lentils cooked al dente and dressed with Xeres vinegar which gave textural contrast and a gentle acidity to balance the richness of the foie gras. The accompanying toasted brioche was a model of its kind. (Wine: Juracon “Jardin de Babylone”, 2009)

A well timed fillet of Dover sole came with “Dukkah seasoning,” a flavoursome crust of herbs, nuts and spices. This Egyptian influence, possibly the result of Simon Bonwick’s time as personal chef to the Al Fayed family, gave a Middle Eastern feel to the dish. The braised butter bean accompaniment added complexity with its “bitter notes” seasoning. (Wine: Chateau Mousar White, 2004)

The “Assiette aux trois saveurs,” was a veritable tour de force of meat and game cookery. Braised veal cheek was unctuously rich with a melting texture. Partridge farci, was beautifully tender with a gentle gaminess. And “coco” loin of venison, cooked medium rare, showed the meat at its best. A deeply flavoured reduced red wine sauce, spiked with rowanberry  to add a hint of sweetness, brought these elements together well.  (Wine: Chateauneuf du pape, “Vieux Telegraph”, 2000)

Desserts, created by Marc Paley, showed the pastry section was also on top form.

Mango, raspberry and passion fruit sorbets impressed with their intense tastes and smooth textures. Basboussa, a light Egyptian semolina cake laced with syrup, came with an attractive western garnish of white chocolate and fresh raspberries. Rich lemon posset had a good balance of sweetness and acidity. The accompanying tuile and brandy snap biscuits were particularly fine. (Wine: Chateau Guiraud, 1999)

Other aspects of the meal, the breads at the start and truffles and shortbread with coffee were all well made.

Wines were chosen and dishes served by Dean Bonwick, who trained under the master of front of house service, Diego Masciaga of The Waterside Inn. Dean’s natural charm, combined with professional etiquette and detailed knowledge of the food and wine, made him the perfect host.

Overall, our meal was a highly memorable one. As the first joint enterprise by father and son, the Half Moon deserves to succeed.

Once news spreads, the disadvantages of its location – on a B road north of  Watlington – will be outweighed by the excellence of its food, drink and service. We wish Simon and Dean well.

Head Chef: Chris O'Callaghan

Talking to head chef Chris O’Callaghan after a busy evening service, I was impressed by his energy, passion and sense of purpose.  He came to Linthwaite House in April, succeeding Richard Kearsley who had done much to maintain the hotel’s strong reputation for fine dining. With an impressive CV, including three years at Gravetye Manor and nine in the Alan Murchison stable of restaurants – L’Ortolan, Le Becasse, The New Angel, and most recently, Paris House, Chris was keen to add his own stamp to Linthwaite’s kitchens.

Overseeing a brigade of 9, with a minimum of five in the kitchen at any time, he describes his management style as relaxed and “even,” with no shouting, treating each member of his team as individuals. All are involved in the final development of a dish. Presently, he is collaborating with the pastry chef on a special cherry parfait.

Chris claims it is too early to define his style precisely or how it will evolve. However, he is passionate about using seasonal British ingredients. For instance, he will not use Parmesan, preferring Doddingtons cheese even though it is more expensive. Therefore, building good relationships with top regional suppliers like Lake Speciality Foods is important. Whilst he accepts foraged ingredients can be useful, they must not occupy too much of a kitchen’s time. As with most young, ambitious chefs, he has embraced modern techniques including molecular ones to maintain consistency and expand the scope of his cookery.

Whilst his personal aim is to gain a Michelin star and three AA rosettes, he accepts that pleasing his customers is paramount. He cooks for them, not for the guides, as it should be.

Having enjoyed an impressive lunch shortly after Chris arrived at Linthwaite, I was keen to return to see how his cooking had developed. I was not to be disappointed. Chris’s cooking shows great skill in its range, timing, ingredient combination and presentation. Dishes are well balanced in terms of tastes, textures and temperatures. Based on classical roots, there is a degree of restrained invention that produces elegant, sophisticated dishes.

The dinner menu offers a choice of five starters, mains and desserts. Two dishes change daily, affording a greater choice to residents, most of whom dine for more than one night. There is no tasting menu which is not necessarily a disadvantage because  more time can be spent refining the carte. Menu descriptions, although detailed, are still understated, offering nice surprises to the diner.

Dinner began with canapés of smoked salmon twirls; cheese and ham straws and honey roasted cashews and peanuts. Simple and delicious, they rightly did not steal the thunder from what was to come

Well made breads – cheese and paprika and granary with oats – had crisp crusts and firm crumb.

An amuse bouche of mushroom veloute was enhanced by a well judged addition of truffle oil.

A tart of cured pigeon retained the soft texture and gamey flavour of the bird. Sandwiched between the slices of breast and the crisp pastry base was red onion marmalade of with a perfect combination of sweet and sour. Whilst the raspberries might initially appear a superfluous garnish, the need to balance the rich oiliness of the pumpkin seeds with an acidic element justified their addition to what was overall a highly accomplished starter.

Another first course featured soft shelled crab deep fried in a ethereally light tempura batter and partnered with a quennel of sweet dressed crab, gently spiked with chilli. Delicately flavoured lemon grass jelly and a spaghetti and puree of butternut squash were brilliantly conceived and well executed garnishes. Visually, also, this dish was stunning.

Two contrasting main courses were sampled. The first, a veal “cushion” or rump was cooked medium to maximise its tender, sweet qualities. This was coupled with unctuous slow cooked shin which simply melted in the mouth. Cep tortellini and puree gave a deep earthiness whilst charred onion, roasted carrot and cauliflower gave a caramelised flavour and crisp texture. A red wine reduction, given added richness by nuggets of bone marrow and a slight aniseed note of tarragon, bought the elements together in a harmonious whole. This was not a dish for the feint hearted given its generous portion size and robust flavours, but one that was exemplary in its mastery of meat and sauce cookery.

Lighter and more delicate but no less accomplished was a dish of poached sea bream fillets, rolled to present their attractive glistening grey skins. Perched on a bed of braised pak choi, bean sprouts and strips of red pepper, all al dente, they were surrounded by a fragrant, clear Thai consommé seasoned with tiny dried shrimps.

Desserts offered greater scope for creativity and use of molecular techniques which were exhibited to the full.

Chocolate tart had buttery pastry and a rich ganache. This was moderated by a paste of salted grue de cacao, giving good balance to the chocolate elements. A velvety smooth and not over powerful mint ice cream added a refreshingly light note whilst shards and cigarettes of meringue gave crisp texture and contrasting colour.

Another dessert featured poached meringue flavoured with vanilla, lemon crumble, strawberry compote and an exemplary strawberry sorbet. This was a happy marriage of flavours and textures that again showed the undoubted skills of the pastry section.

The dinner ended with coffee and truffles and passion fruit jellies, made with the same care and attention to detail given to what preceded them. Overall, this was a distinguished meal, with only one minor hiccup and many high points. Chris has lost no time in establishing himself as a rising star in the Lake District, certainly one with Michelin star potential.  We shall all watch his career with interest.

With twelve years at Holbeck Ghyll and previous experience under Michelin starred chefs at (the now closed) Michael’s Nook, not to mention numerous stages in top end kitchens like Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons, Dave McLaughlin is one of the most experienced head chefs in the Lake District. I was lucky to be able to chat to him before a busy day’s service.

Dave McLaughlin Head Chef

His calm, thoughtful manner is reflected in his quiet, firm but fair management of his brigade of eight. Whilst his pastry chef has worked at Holbeck for 17 years, five more than himself, other members average two years service which he stresses is good for the restaurant industry. He accepts that whilst beautiful, the area offers a limited range of diversions for younger chefs in their spare time.

Dave describes his cooking style as “classical with modern twists.” Conscious of the need to appeal to a range of guests who dine, often for more than one night, he needs to keep his seasonally changing menu suitably varied, whilst avoiding outlandish yet fashionable combinations. This is partly why he eschews the excesses of molecular gastronomy and the faddishness of movements such as foraging. The main reason, however, is his love of classical cuisine.

Dave has neither a signature nor a favourite dish, but admits a preference for cooking fish dishes. His natural modesty means he dislikes being filmed, although he admires TV chefs who have previously made a success of their restaurant careers. He has little time for mere celebrity chefs with no real experience in the industry.

Asked what the unique selling point of his cooking would be, Dave emphasizes its consistency, which has been recognised by a Michelin star for twelve years running. This contrasts with other notable hotel restaurants in the area which have won then lost their stars.

As for the future, Dave is philosophical and takes each day as it comes. He is not complacent about his success but clearly enjoys being at Holbeck Ghyll.

In addition to its Michelin Star and three AA rosettes, the restaurant at Holbeck Ghyll has been awarded a host of accolades. With regular high marks in the Good Food Guide, this publication also named it Cumbrian Restaurant of the Year in 2010 and ranked it 23^rd best in the country in 2011. In the same year, the Sunday Times Food list placed it 41^st out of the top 100 restaurants.

The menu structure features a carte of five starters, mains and desserts plus the cheese trolley. A tasting menu of four savoury courses plus cheese and dessert can be taken with an optional flight of wines.

Our dinner on a Tuesday evening in late July began in the lounge with pre prandial drinks and well made canapés. Amongst these, a disc of duck boudin was well flavoured, its richness cut by a tiny quennel of fruit chutney. The white crab meat mayonnaise in a filo pastry case was sweet and fresh. A crumbed salmon goujon retained is fish’s moistness. And a deep fried risotto ball was both crisp and soft. The attention to detail here was impressive, auguring well for the rest of the meal.

A selection of breads – walnut and apricot, brown, white and cheese – were all well baked, with crisp crusts and firm textured crumb.

An amuse bouche of smoked chicken and celeriac veloute was pleasingly light with good depth of flavour.

With preliminaries over, the two starters immediately impressed.

Three large hand dived scallops from the west coast of Scotland had been seared to produce a caramelised crust and sweet, succulent flesh. Resting on a smooth puree of spiced cauliflower, and interspersed with tiny beignets of deep fried florets, the delectable bivalves were lifted by a puree of apple and raisin which added the citral note the dish needed. Whilst not original in its combination of ingredients – scallops, cauliflower and raisins have been used and abused by lesser chefs – the quality of the main ingredient, coupled with precise timing and clean presentation, made this a dish which could not be improved. The matching Chardonnay wine had an elegant minerality, a little citrus and oak which added roundness and pleasant mouth feel. (Wine: Macon –Solutre, Caves, Auvigne, 2011, Burgundy, France)

A warm mousse of foie gras had a good balance of liver, cream, egg and cognac, producing a light but rich “flan” poached to a gentle wobble. Now rarely prepared in all but the most classical of kitchens, this was a delightful way to enjoy the unctuous offal. Braised Puy lentils and tiny girolles provided a warm earthiness, whilst crisp pancetta and deep fried leeks added contrastingly crisp textures. The crowning glory was a simple pea foam which gave a lively freshness and vibrant colour to this well executed, visually stunning dish. The clean, crisp qualities of the accompanying Chenin Blanc, with its low acidity and minerality, provided an excellent foil to the essential richness of the mousse. (Wine: Rudera Chenin Blanc, Stellenboch, South Africa 2009)

A main course of roasted wild turbot amply demonstrated the chef’s skill in fish cookery. The dense firm flesh of the brilliant white fillet was perfectly cooked to retain its delicate sweetness. Creamed leeks, trompettes de mort, crisp ham and cubes of potato fondant were flavoursome, well judged garnishes, whilst the whole dish was brought together by an intense but not over reduced rich wine sauce.

Best end of Cumbrian lamb with a herb crust was cooked to a blushing pink which maximised its rich flavour and tender texture. The vegetable garnishes – olive gnocchi, confit peppers, sauted courgettes and aubergine caviar  – evoked all the summery flavours of the Mediterranean. Again, the refined red wine saucing of this dish was major strength. The full bodied Cabernet Shiraz with its ripe plum and berry bouquet and spicy notes was another well chosen matching wine. (Wine: Cabernet Shirax Explorer; 2010, Langhorn Creek, South Australia)

Like the turbot dish, the lamb course did not experiment with unusual combinations or faddish modes of cooking, but used tried and tested combinations and techniques to produce a highly accomplished finished product, exemplifying the best of classical cooking.

An impressive trolley of nine British and four French cheeses, soft and hard, mild and strong, goat’s, cow’s and sheep’s, offered an embarrassment of choice. Thankfully, the restaurant had a cheese menu, the tasting notes of which greatly aided the final decision. The three chosen, Epoisses; Cropwell Bishop Stilton, Wigmore from Berkshire were all in perfect condition.

For desserts, the favoured approach is the assiette, which gives full scope to demonstrate classical techniques. Lionel, the pastry chef, has seventeen year experience at Holbeck, so a highly polished performance was anticipated and received.

A lemon plate featured a light mille feuille of lemon mousse; glazed lemon tart; rich lemon crème brulee; iced lemon parfait and a refreshingly intense lemon sorbet. Frankly, the assembly, a tour de force in itself, did not need the passion fruit sauce, except, perhaps, for colour contrast.

The other dessert chosen was equally accomplished and more inventive. Vanilla poached pineapple, velvety smooth coconut sorbet and tangy cubes of passion fruit jelly were set against deep fried banana beignets. This comprised a highly satisfying juxtaposition of flavours, textures and flavours which worked well together.

The selection of petit fours: chocolate truffle, orange tuile, Turkish delight, pistachio macaroon and salted caramel were all models of their kind. The only weakness in the whole meal was the blackberry jelly, which had too much gelatine. This is a tiny criticism in what proved to be a memorable meal, one that fully justified its Michelin star.

Food service was young, accommodating and knowledgeable. Being thoroughly professional, it avoided – thankfully – the relaxed casualness and over familiarity that can blight even the best restaurants.

Wines were expertly chosen by sommelier Stefan Lydka, who chose from a lavish and evolving list dominated by France which was awarded the Good Food Guide Wine List of the Year for 2009.

Stefan Lydka Sommelier

Given the skill of cooking, the distinguished wine list and the seamless service in the celebrated surroundings of a top country house hotel, it is little wonder that many diners return. They can be assured that their meal will be produced to a consistently high standard, using top quality ingredients, the sine qua non for a Michelin star.

Interior of The White Oak in Cookham, Bershire

The attractive Berkshire town of Cookham, just north of Maidenhead, has never been short of places to eat and drink. Its riverside walks, picturesque old village high street and famous Stanley Spencer Gallery attract large numbers of visitors each year, whilst its largely professional population, familiar with many celebrated restaurants in this prosperous part of the Thames Valley, are amongst the most discerning diners in the south east.

The White Oak is a well established pub located on the Pound, a narrow link between the older and newer parts of Cookham. The long, red brick exterior, designed in a neo Georgian style with sash windows presents an attractive facade. Inside, the reception, bar and dimly lit lounge lead to a long 55 cover dining room with French windows at the far end leading to a terrace and garden. Furnishing and fittings are a harmonious blend of rustic and modern chic. Oak veneered undressed tables, in a variety of shapes and sizes, are well spaced and paired with an assortment of chairs, including a few in a reproduction Louis XVI style. Along the length of the room, a banquette in reddish brown leather offers comfortable alternative seating. The décor is a pleasant coffee and beige, punctuated by faux 18^th century mirrors, sepia photographs and a variety of prints. Chandeliers, hanging lampshades and spotlighting offer ample illumination.

Having undergone changes of ownership, The White Oak is now in the hands of   Henry and Katherine Cripps, passionate restaurateurs who are also the proprietors of The Greene Oak in Windsor and The Three Oaks in Gerrard’s Cross. Although all three “country pubs and eating houses” offer delicious, well cooked food, it is The White Oak that is well on its way in achieving distinction. This is largely because of pedigree of its current chef, who has been in post since November 2011.

Head Chef Clive Dixon

Clive Dixon has followed in the path of an increasing number of those in his profession who have forsaken fine dining for a simpler, more accessible style of cooking. Having gained a Michelin star at Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter, and with experience in the kitchens of top chefs such as David Everitt-Mathias, Pierre Koffmann and Heston Blumental, his CV would open doors to any restaurant of his choice. Instead, he has decided to become chef patron of his own gastro pub. With no shortage of competition from a variety of cuisines, his modern British cooking has nevertheless hit the mark, attracting a regular, enthusiastic clientele.

Not that “simpler, more accessible” cooking is less demanding on the chef; far from it. Ingredients have to be impeccable and there is nowhere to hide if preparation and cooking are not spot on. In these respects, Clive Dixon’s strong links with some of the UK’s top suppliers, notably Aubrey Allen butchers and Channel Fisheries of Brixham, coupled with his fine technical skills, have put him at a distinct advantage. Produce – whether humble or elevated – are treated sensitively, combined to showcase taste and texture, cooked with precision, and presented in a pleasing, unadorned rustic style. The lack of pretension, with the true flavours of prime ingredients shining through, is a major strength here.

A seasonally changing menu of eight starters, eight mains and six desserts including cheese, allows for the full range of cooking skills to be demonstrated, with some unusual as well as familiar options. Tea smoked salmon and hay cooked ham feature on the starters; confit duck, Wagyu burgers and steak and chips are amongst the mains; and crème brulee or hot brioche doughnuts are two of the dessert choices.

Fine Dining Guide visited White Oak on a Friday evening in June.

Olive and pumpkin bread were both well made, with crisp crusts and firm crumb.

From the main menu, a playful “Crab sandwich” starter was a delight. Instead of the usual white meat came a generous serving of the much underused but flavoursome brown meat, mixed with mayonnaise and herbs to cut its deep intensity.  This was sandwiched between thin, melba toast like layers of crisp pumpkin bread called snippets and garnished with peppery land cress.  Overall, the components formed a lively, fresh tasting dish.

Another more robust starter featured a stew of cuttlefish. Gently braised in red wine with a base of onions, garlic, tomatoes and stock, this underrated cephalopod was tastier than squid and softer than octopus. This was a fine example of slow food at its best.

The two main courses sampled were models of their kind – tried and tested classics.

Pan fried skate was precisely timed to do full justice to the soft melting texture of the mild, sweet flesh. The thick wing, dressed with capers, lemon and beurre noisette, had all the piquant vibrancy and nutty butteriness associated with dish. The vegetable garnish, a cauliflower puree, had a caramelised quality which worked well with the other elements. The generous portion of triple cooked chips, although expertly rendered, were not necessary to complete the dish.

A main course of Cornish lamb – favoured above more local breeds – again featured an underused cut, the neck fillet, which is sweeter than the ubiquitous chump or rump. Seared and cooked pink to maximise its flavour, this perfectly seasoned piece of meat came with deep fried sweetbreads, the creamy texture, crisp coating and pronounced flavour of which worked well with the fillet. The accompaniments – creamed cabbage, confit potatoes, roasted garlic came and a rich jus were skilfully executed, making this a well rounded dish.

Desserts demonstrated skill in execution.

A well made individual strawberry trifle was given extra texture with the addition of crushed meringue. The addition of lavender in the custard was precisely judged so as not to be overwhelming.  Here was a successful twist on a classic dessert.

With starters ranging from £6 to £9, mains £12 to £25, and desserts £6 to £7, dining at The White Oak is accessible to most pockets. In addition, the Menu Auberge, three courses for £19, available at lunch and dinner offers exceptional value for money. A select list of wines, by the glass and bottle, also offers a good range at reasonable prices.

More important are the unquestioned quality of the cooking and the welcoming, friendly service. In particular, Jay, the engaging manager, spoke with detailed knowledge and enthusiasm about the restaurant in which he takes particular pride.

It is easy to see why The White Oak has become a successful neighbourhood restaurant. Far from producing food for the lowest common denominator, Clive Dixon has made a virtue of simplicity, attracting a sophisticated clientele who appreciate the care and attention needed at his level of cooking. We will follow his career at Cookham with interest.

Head Chef Phil Cubin

At 24, head chef Phil Cubin’s youthful looks belie his considerable experience in the kitchens of renowned restaurants such as Sharrow Bay and Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons. After three years as Gilpin Lodge’s sous chef, he recently succeeded Russell Plowman, one of his key mentors. Phil’s gentle temperament, open personality and modest character make him instantly likeable, and are reflected in his calm regime in the kitchen. This is built on a highly organised approach to his brigade, with detailed guidelines to ensure consistency of execution. His team of seven is nevertheless given ample room for personal development, whilst contributing to the success of the kitchen as a whole. For instance, the recently completed Spring Menu, with six choices in each of the three courses, is the result of a long series of tastings involving his whole brigade and the front of house team. Certainly, Phil is anxious to develop the strengths of those in his charge, while their passion and willingness to learn remain strong.

Keen to stamp his own identity on the cooking, Phil’s style reflects a more natural than scientific approach. Appreciating the high quality of seasonal produce – including foraged ones – in the Lake District, his dishes exemplify the respect and sensitivity with which they are treated. Often inspired by the prime quality and beauty of a single ingredient, his preparation and mainly classical cooking techniques, along with careful selection of garnishes, are designed to highlight the freshness and flavour of the star element. Over elaboration, he understands, will not achieve this end.

In autumn and winter, grouse, hare and venison have proved to be popular choices. Although it is still early days, spider crab, salt cod and lamb dishes on the new spring menu have proved equally popular. In addition to his five course Gourmet Menu, Phil has recently introduced a three course Simply Grill menu featuring pork rillettes, cote de beouf and crème brulee.

Fine Dining Guide had two opportunities to sample Phil’s five course menu, finding much to admire in the restrained innovation, precise cooking, clean tastes, fine balance of tastes and textures, and elegant presentation.  Over pre-prandial drinks in the lounge, different canapes were offered each night: black pudding bonbons, cheese straws, smoked salmon with crème fraiche on first, haddock goujons, aubergine mousse and olive straws on the second. Well executed, these were light, flavoursome mouthfuls.

Of the two three types of breads offered, rosemary focaccia, was outstanding in its moist crumb and crisp, fragrant crust.

A delightful amuse bouche comprised crispy, well seasoned ham hock, tangy home made piccalilli and soft boiled quail egg.

Another, a velvety cauliflower veloute, given added texture and flavour with thinly sliced florets and diced bacon, elevated this potentially bland vegetable to gastronomic heights.

Amongst first courses, a new take on a classic featured warm salt cod brandade deep fried in a crisp batter. Pickled vegetables cut the rich savoury elements of the fish whilst saffron aioli and parsley puree served as two contrasting sauces.  (Wine: Fuentemilano Verdejo-Viura, Castilla y Leon, Spain)

Seared foie gras was well timed to produce a caramelised crust and melting interior. Accompanied by ethereally light watercress tempura, baby watercress, crispy chicken skin shards and a sauce of beetroot juices, this was a brilliantly conceived and well executed dish.  (Wine: Terra de Asorei Alborino, Rias Baixas, Spain)

A starter of cold lobster had been well timed to retain is succulence and sweetness. Served with a simple salad of cucumber, tomato and fennel, the crustacean was allowed to take centre stage.

Phil’s signature main course proved to be a truly innovative triumph of tastes, textures, flavours and colours. Plump, west coast Scottish langoustines, wrapped in lardo di colonatta to protect their delicate texture and enhance their wonderfully fresh taste, were gently pan fried to give colour and extra flavour. This inspired technique was both simple yet skilled. Deeply flavoured squid ink risotto, seasoned with a small amount of parmesan, provided the base of the dish, whilst maple gel enlivened without overwhelming in its sweetness. Crisp wild leeks, dressed with chive oil, completed this accomplished dish.  (Wine: Classic rose 2011, Chateau Massaya, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)

Another main course of Cumbrian beef demonstrated the excellence of classical meat cookery.  A tender, medium rare fillet, paired with slow cooked unctuously rich ox cheek, was garnished with creamy potato puree spiked with horseradish and sweet confit shallots. These elements were bought together by a dark, well reduced red wine sauce.  (Wine: Chianti Classico 2008, Isole e Olena, Tuscany, Italy)

A breast of Goosnargh duckling – the most flavoursome of all breeds – was roasted to a pleasing medium with crisp skin. Thankfully it was not sliced. (Why many chefs insist on slicing duck breast, as if diners are incapable of doing it themselves, remains a mystery, especially as juices are lost and the dish gets cold more quickly.) Having said this, steak knives would have been appreciated, not because the duck was tough, but rather than the knife should glide through the thick breast as it would through butter. Golden beetroot, honeyed baby onions and fragrant garlic flowers were simple yet effective garnishes.  (Wine: Domaine de Mortier 2009, Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France.)

Rack of spring Cumbrian lamb was slow roasted and rightly served with its full compliment of fat. This rich, sweet meat, served medium rare to maximise its flavour, was appropriately garnished with wild garlic leaves and flowers, braised piquant Jerusalem artichokes – an unusual yet satisfying garnish – and a light jus.  (Wine: Sierra Cantabria 2007, San Vincente de la Sonsierra, Rioja, Spain)

Dinners at Gilpin Lodge always feature pre-desserts. The raspberry and orange flavoured granites, with their foam/ cream toppings, sampled on successive evenings, served their purpose in being palate cleansing and refreshing,

Desserts often allow for greater invention and creativity, this being no less true at Gilpin Lodge.

The most outstanding option saw strawberries treated three ways: macerated, jellied and powered. These were partnered with a red pepper sorbet of superb texture and flavour, and an intense basil jus. Shards of meringue added a crisp lightness. The overall balance of sweet and savoury flavours, soft and crisp textures, and light and dark colours made this dessert a tour de force of invention.  Served on dark slate, it was also visually stunning. (Wine: Boizel Brut rose NV, Evelyne Roques-Boizel, Epernay, Champagne, France)

Another accomplished dessert was moist cherry cake, sauced with an intense cherry gel. It came with a tangy yogurt sorbet, powdered pistachio and buttermilk. (Wine: Elysium Black Muscat 2010, Andrew Quady, Madera, California, USA)

White chocolate and mascarpone had a light cheesecake texture. Garnished with pineapple poached in syrup flavoured with fennel and anise, and topped with a sugar ribbon, this was another indulgent dessert. (Wine: Domaine Rotier 2008, Renaissance, Gaillac, France)

Another innovative dessert featured a rich and well textured quennel of spiced palm sugar mousse set on a slice of gingerbread and garnished with fresh lychees and fragrant star anise powder. The dish may have benefitted from the absence of a grapefruit foam, which merely distracted from the other elements.  (Chateau La Veriere 2007, Coteaux du Layon, Loire Valley, France)

Strong coffee and well made petit fours – macaroons sand chocolate truffles – provided good endings to memorable meals. These were made more enjoyable by the excellent service which was friendly, solicitous and well informed.  Sommelier Ziggy Grinsbergs expertly selected wines to match each dish. It took over six tasting sessions, liaising with the chef, to finalise the flight of often lesser known bins.

Clearly, Phil Cubin is a rising star in the ultra competitive world of Lake District dining. He admits he aims to have firmly established himself at Gilpin Lodge over the next five years having further developed his own distinct style. From the evidence gained so far, he has impressed with his first spring menu and is well on the way to establishing is own reputation. We will watch his career with interest.