In 1973, when John Betjamin made his documentary about Metroland, the semi rural commuter belt to the north west of the capital, fine dining in the UK was in its infancy. Amersham, with its attractive old town and modern housing and shopping developments, typified the economic and social attractions and slower pace of life that many found appealing.  Like many other towns in the area, however, it lacked a restaurant of true distinction. Those in search of a gastronomic experience would still travel to London. Now, almost 40 years later, the Metropolitan line and the improved road network are helping to bring Londoners and those from further afield to dine at a restaurant that can easily compete with many in the capital.

Chef patron Laurie Gear modestly describes Artichoke as a “successful neighbourhood restaurant”, but this is to underrate his own achievement. Whilst it does retain a strong local following built up since it opened in 2002, Artichoke’s reputation has been nationally recognised with a host of awards, the most recent being placed 37th in the Top 50 UK Restaurants Good Food Guide 2012. A year earlier, the same guide crowned it the Best New Entry whilst the Michelin Guide named it a Rising Star.

To describe Artichoke as a phoenix risen from the ashes would be appropriate both in terms of its reopening and rejuvenated cuisine. The fire of 2008, which almost destroyed the interior and six years’ of hard work, led to an 18 month closure. With its reopening in 2009 and subsequent expansion into the fish restaurant where the fire started, Artichoke has doubled its covers to 45, with an additional 15/16 in the private dining room.

The décor and furnishings successfully harmonise the original features of the 16^th century building – sash windows, fireplace, oak beams and low ceilings – with stylish modern additions such as exposed painted brickwork and clever spotlighting. Particularly impressive is the glass partition through which diners can view the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Polished dark wood tables are well spaced in the three seating areas – kitchen, garden (in the original room) and private dining (upstairs). Leather upholstered chairs and banquettes provide sophisticated, relaxed seating.

The fire of 2008 might also be seen as a blessing in disguise by allowing – forgive the pun -Laurie’s cooking to move up a gear. Although he developed his classical skills in the kitchens of variety of establishments including a fish restaurant, a top end country house hotel and a gastropub, Laurie’s epiphany came with his experience during the closure at the celebrated Danish restaurant, Noma. Its emphasis on freshness, locality, seasonality and sustainability, with the use of foraged ingredients and employing the latest modern techniques, injected new life into the food served at Artichoke. Not that Laurie’s modern European cuisine has lost its own identity, rather the influences are employed in moderation and in suitable collaboration with a classical repertoire. Molecular techniques are noticeable by their relative absence.

Precise technical skills, consistently applied and combined with imaginative but not outlandish creativity have produced elegantly presented dishes which maximise flavour and balance tastes and textures. The main ingredient takes centre stage, so plates are pleasingly free from extraneous garnishes, each accompaniment contributing harmoniously to the composite whole.

An ambitious menu structure offers both a la carte and tasting options for lunch and dinner. At lunch the three course set menu at £25 is justifiably popular whilst the five course lunch tasting menu for £35 (with a flight of wines for £18) must surely rank as an outstanding bargain in any top end restaurant.

Fine Dining Guide visited Artichoke on a Tuesday evening in May and found plenty to admire in the dishes sampled.

Much can be ascertained about a restaurant by the quality of its bread and the two offered here were not found wanting.  A sourdough made with Mackeson stout had a crisp crust and firm textured crumb. Equally appealing was the bacon brioche which was rich, buttery and crumbly.

An amuse bouche featured a shot of warm beetroot soup gently acidulated with apple juice and spiked by a cold horseradish cream. This served its purpose of stimulating the taste buds well.

A signature starter saw beautifully fresh white crab meat from Lyme Bay encased in a delicate tube of passion fruit jelly, a marriage that worked particularly well.  Avocado cream and shellfish mayonnaise added richer elements, whilst the whole dish was lifted by a quennel of cucumber sorbet, and slices of frozen cucumber, which had cleansing, crisp qualities. This was an inspired starter, with its carefully judged combination of tastes, textures and – with the addition of edible violet flowers – colours. The crisp white wine, with its apple aroma and hint of spice, set off this dish well. (Wine: Pinot Gris, Château Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2008)

A ballotine of marinated and poached foie gras was satisfyingly dense and melting.  It was offset by a lively grapefruit curd and a chicory marmalade, the gentle bitterness of which balanced the rich creaminess of the liver. A tuile of pain d’espices added a crisp texture which finished this luxurious starter perfectly. The lively sweet white wine, with its citrus and tropical aromas, was a well judged accompaniment. (Wine: Jurançon, Château Jolys, Cuvée Jean, 2009)

Next came dishes which reflected the distinct yet restrained influence of  Noma. – Red wine braised English snails were soft, succulent and highly flavoured. These were set on a savoury “bed” of warm Valencia wet rice, and rye bread crumbs garnished with enoki mushrooms emerging from the “soil.”  Wild garlic leaves added to the “earthiness” – in both senses of the word – of the dish. In flavour, texture and visual appearance, this was a stunningly original dish.

Equally accomplished was an assiette of carrots: steamed baby Heritage carrots which were delicately tender and sweet; carrot tops cooked al dente; and a carrot puree of contrasting smoothness. Balancing these in taste and texture and adding a heady fragrance were truffled goat’s curd – a current favourite amongst leading chefs – black truffle shavings and a Wee Three Pigs Farm fennel salami salad. This was another well conceived, brilliantly executed dish.

The two main courses sampled were slightly less innovative but showed equal skill in their combination of ingredients, execution and presentation.

Breast of free range Chiltern duck, cooked pink in the classic French manner, maximised the flavour of the bird. A boudin blanc of the confit leg was well made. The garnishes of this dish were particularly memorable: wafer thin, crisp pomme maxime; an ethereally light foie gras yogurt; earthy morels; a rich jus and an intensely fresh puree of peas, given added texture with whole young peas and pea pods. The red wine, with fresh red fruit aromas and elegant feel matched this dish well. (Wine: Cairanne, Domaine Richaud, 2010)

A “surf and turf” main course featured deliciously succulent and melting slow braised pork belly with its separate puffed skin, deep fried. It worked well with the tangy poached pineapple and puree and baby bulbs of fennel garnish, which added a gentle aniseed touch. Scottish langoustine gave a lively freshness, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a well flavoured jus and a scattering of pollen. The red wine, with blackcurrant, liquorice and spice notes suited this dish well. (Wine: Carménère Equus, Haras de Pirque, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2009)

The strengths of the pastry section, located upstairs in its own kitchen, were amply demonstrated in the two desserts sampled

A rich ganache of piped Michel Cluizel white chocolate was cut by a sharp jelly of Amalfi lemon and olive oil. Lemon Thyme sherbert gave a refreshing herby fragrance whilst shards of Amaretti biscuits added a contrastingly crisp texture to this composite dessert.

The second dessert was a veritable masterclass in the art of puff pastry. Marie de bois strawberries and creme patisierre were sandwiched between thin layers of crisp pastry perched on a delectable caramelised white chocolate cream. The accompanying strawberry sorbet was of perfect texture and flavour. Visually stunning, this dessert tasted as good as it looked.

Well made petits fours -tarragon marsh mallow, truffle, cherry and fudge – and good coffee completed this memorable meal.

Service, overseen by Jacqueline Gear, Restaurant Director, was welcoming, knowledgeable and solicitous. Ludo, the Maitre d’, used his considerable expertise in selecting the flight of wines.

Overall, Laurie and Jacqueline Gear have created a restaurant of which they can be justifiably proud, one that operates like a well oiled machine, but with personality and character. Their hard work in overcoming adversity commands our full admiration.  Moreover, they have earned the respect of their fellow chefs such as Raymond Blanc, who actively recommends Artichoke, Prue Leith and Alyn Williams who have made, or will be making guest appearances. Perhaps most importantly for its future development, Artichoke now needs to the Michelin starred recognition it so richly deserves. We await the 2013 guide in eager anticipation.

North Road is a leading exponent of modern Danish cuisine. Opened in November 2010 by chef patron Christoffer Hruskova, it takes to new heights a style he pioneered in London at the Fig in Barnsbury. The move to St John Street in trendy Clerkenwell, home to a diverse range of successful restaurants, gives wider scope to attract a more adventurous, discerning clientele. There is space for 70 diners, including 14 in the mezzanine level private dining area.

The décor features natural textures and colours, with a heavy emphasis of white and beige. The elegant bar has stools designed by Norman Chermer. The stylish dining room, divided into two sections, is lit by a strikingly attractive row of giant balloon like bulbs designed by Serge Mouille. At one end, a mirrored wall adds to the sense of space and light in what is a fairly narrow room.  Tables, which line the sparsely decorated plain white walls, are well spaced and dressed with fine napery. Comfortable seating is provided by leather banquettes and classic carver chairs in light oak designed by J L Moller. Overall, the simple, clean lines and uncluttered look give a refined, sophisticated feel.

Christoffer Hruskova has a distinguished pedigree that includes experience at Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant Kong Hans, Tetsuya in Sydney and Jardinière in San Francisco. In a Scandinavian style that has reached the heights of gastronomic credibility, his cooking treats the bounties of earth and sea in a simple yet robust way that maximises natural tastes and flavours. Pickling and smoking, or serving food raw, are favoured techniques, although the technology of modern kitchens is not ignored. All ingredients, including many foraged ones, are sourced from the UK. True to his Danish roots, the chef shuns classic French and Mediterranean produce such as olive oil, olives, tomatoes and bulb garlic.  Flavours, therefore, are not strong, but pure and subtle, allowing the main ingredients to speak for themselves.

Whether choosing from the carte, or opting for the tasting menu, the diner can be assured of sound technique, clarity of flavour and clean presentation. Whilst not cheap –starters average £9.50, main courses £23 and desserts £8 – prices are justified by the quality of ingredients and the skill of cooking.  Moreover, compared with other Michelin starred restaurants in the City and West End, they are extremely competitive.

Fine Dining Guide visited North Road on a weekday evening in May 2012.  The tasting menu (seven courses £67, with wines, £49) was chosen which fully revealed the range of ingredients and cooking techniques employed.

A trio of amuse bouches immediately demonstrated the skill of the kitchen:  pork skin was puffed up to ethereal lightness; Jersey Royals were filled with a flavoursome haddock protein mayonnaise, and pickled quails eggs retained their soft oozing  yolks.

Warm malt and spelt rolls, both with dense textured crumb, were shaped like muffins and served in a miniature rustic sack. The accompanying brown butter had a satisfying nutty flavour reminiscent of beurre noisette.

The first course featured the raw Dorset crab and cockle juice jelly. The preparation technique – immersing the crab in soda water which was then frozen – preserved the wonderful sweetness of the  white meat. The cockle juice jelly, set by its own proteins and encasing coastal herbs, added a savoury but not overpowering note. Decorated with rye crisps and wild garlic flowers, and lifted with apple vinegar, this composition proved to be a taste sensation. The dry Italian white wine, with its citrus and nut flavours, showcased the dish beautifully. (Wine: Verdicchio Dei Castelli de Jesi superiore, San Lorenzo, 2010)

Scottish lumpfish roe was another course served raw. With the distinctive poppy mouth feel of caviar, it worked well with thickened buttermilk which added creaminess, the stronger taste of red onion, the gentle aniseed flavour of dill and the crunch of chicken skin crumble. Here was another harmonious if ususual combination of tastes and textures. The Chenin Blanc, with its bouquet of lush stone fruits, a hint of sweetness and tight mineral finish worked well with dish. (Wine: Montlouis Minerale+ Franz Saumon 2010)

The next seafood course of smoked native Dorset lobster was perfectly timed to retain the delicate succulence of the flesh. The smoke was so gentle that the sweet pure taste of the tail and claw meat shone through. Enveloped in raw wild and cultivated vegetables such as raddish, cauliflower and mustard leaf, this sublime dish simultaneously combined the luxury of the sea with the simplicity of the land. The high acidity and range of citric flavours in the Riesling wine proved to be another good match. (Wine: Riesling Kabinett, Forster Ungeheuer, Dr Von Bassermann-Jordan, German, 2009)

In a season where heavy rainfall has almost devastated the asparagus crop in some regions, we were lucky to have asparagus from the Wye Valley and Kent on the menu. It came in three ways: raw –in slithers – poached and pan fried, all of which captured its distinctive, strong earthy flavour. Wild garlic and truffle added a heady perfume to the dish, whilst salted, soft poached pheasant egg provided a rich sauce. This robust dish needed a richer wine, which the accompanying Sancerre, with its balance of fruit and minerality, provided. (Wine: Sancerre cuvee Maxime Vieilles Vignes, Domainde Delaporte, 2010)

The single meat course showcased Herdwick lamb, sweeter and more fully flavoured than most breeds. The meltingly tender rump had been cooked sous vide in contrast to the sweetbreads which had been pan fried to produce a caramelised crust and a rich, creamy interior. Sea lettuce, sea kale and coastal herbs provided a flourish of nutritious greenery, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a light sauce of burnt cucumber and rape seed oil sauce. The aromatic, soft dry red wine was a splendid accompaniment. (Wine: Barolo, DOCG, Vigneti in Barolo, 2007)

There followed two desserts, perhaps less exciting and accomplished than the savoury courses, but nevertheless intriguing

“Milk, pearl barley and linseed” comprised a velvety smooth milk ice cream, linseed foam, and “sugar puffs” of pearl barley. The last element had not totally worked, being too nutty to eat. The matching wine was sweet with a fair degree of acidity. (Wine: Granjo late harvest, Portugal, 2007)

Yoghurt ice cream and crisp yoghurt meringue combined sour and sweet tastes in perfect balance. Douglas fir pine ice added a lively, clean kick to this  light dessert that finished off the meal perfectly. The sweet wine with tropical fruit aromas had a fresh, dry palate that complemented the dessert well. (Wine; Juracon La Magendia de Lapeyre, Clos Lapeyre, France)

A much needed, generous serving of double espresso and petit fours – which included a fun element of candy floss and exemplary salted caramels – completed this tour de force of a meal

Service was welcoming and solicitous, without being intrusive. With so many multi component dishes, and a variety of cooking techniques, the knowledge of the staff was very impressive indeed. Overseeing the proceedings and selecting the matching wines was a familiar face, recently arrived from Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. His charm, enthusiasm and sense of humour put us at or ease and helped to make the evening a memorable one.

Clearly, North Road has made an indelible mark on the London dining scene, as confirmed by the award of a Michelin star in the 2012 guide. In an area of strong competition, and given its strengths in the kitchen, it will more than hold its own. We will watch its progress with interest.

Mallory Court Hotel, Warwickshire

My first visit to Mallory Court was for a Saturday lunch, way back in October 1986. Simon Carter and I chose a range of classical and nouvelle dishes, enjoying a terrine of warm sole and salmon with langoustine tails, a rendevous of seafood, chicken with wild mushrooms and Madeira, blackcurrant delice and a trio of sorbets. The charming Jeremy Mort was front of house whilst co owner and head chef Alan Holland produced the highly acclaimed cuisine.

I wrote in my report of the “memorable and civilised gastronomic experience…mastery in the kitchen…impeccable service.” These features are much in evidence today, some 26 years later, during which time there have been changes of ownership, management, chefs and cooking styles. Now, as then, Mallory Court is rated highly in the restaurant guides, remains a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Association and continues to be the proud possessor of a Michelin star. Equally important, the food served in the Dining Room continues to be in perfect harmony with the elegant and sophisticated surroundings of the hotel itself.

Overseeing the kitchen is Simon Haigh, who became head chef in December 2001. He won a Michelin star in 2003, which he has since retained. His new position as Executive Chef for the whole Eden Hotel Collection utilises to the full his creative talents and extensive experience. This includes spells at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Inverlochy Castle (1993-2001) where he won his first Michelin star, and Seaham Hall, where he gained three AA rosettes within a year.

Simon Haigh, Executive Chef.

I met Simon and current head chef Andrew Scott, with whom he has worked for ten years. They share the same consistent approaches towards management, sourcing of produce and menu construction

A more collaborative approach is preferred to the seemingly outdated confrontational kitchen management style: Positive results are achieved through the involvement of all – for instance in the tasting of new dishes – working as a team, with a sense of camaraderie:  a “band of brothers” as Andrew put it. This was also beneficial for staff retention, the average stay for the brigade of eight being above average at four to five years, with others returning after stints elsewhere.

Maximising the use of local and seasonal ingredients is an essential prerequisite for their range of menus. For instance beef, including the renown Dexter breed, comes from three small Warwickshire farms. Much of the fruit, vegetables and herbs come from the hotel’s extensive organic kitchen garden, about which Simon has developed a passionate interest. He regretted the rain had almost destroyed this year’s crop of asparagus, hence its absence from the menu. However, he enthused about the peaches, apricots, mirabelles and figs – amongst an abundance of other home grown fruit and vegetables – which flourish in the south facing gardens. The vegetable and herb areas, I was told, are protected by privet hedging and netting from the voracious rabbit population.

They both agreed that adapting the cuisine to suit the traditional, country house environment and differing types of clientele is important. Being both a destination restaurant, and one with regular local diners, meeting the expectations of both was crucial. One way was through a choice of menus. The seasonal carte, with six options in each course, (£59.50 including coffee and petit fours) showcases both classical and more contemporary dishes, the main courses of which might be changed daily. The daily dinner menu (£45) has a more limited choice while the six course tasting menu (£79 – with a flight of wines £130) is ideal for those who like surprises and wish to see the range of the kitchen’s expertise.

As befitting the modern setting of the conference and banqueting Knight’s Suite, the Brasserie has a more informal, contemporary menu, ranging from Caesar salad to braised ox cheek.

As might be expected from his impressive CV, the cooking style of Simon Haigh showcases and refines classical techniques. Shellfish bisque, foie gras terrine, breast of duck with its confit and beef fillet all feature on the carte. Modern elements and techniques add interest, as in “Coronation crab,” shallot textures, hot rice pudding soufflé, and deconstructed lemon meringue pie. Dishes are multi component, but not at the expense of the main ingredient, so he is careful not to gild the lily. Tastes are distinct and saucing, a particular strength, enhances rather than overwhelms. Combinations of flavours and textures are harmonious if unusual and unexpected. Timing is well judged, and presentation is artistic with clean lines.

Our dinner was taken in the long, oak panelled dining room, the crowning glory of the hotel. With only one window at the far end, wall lights and table candles illuminate the round, well spaced tables. Supremely comfortable carver chairs, fine napery and tapestry carpeting add to the sense of formal luxury. Whilst jacket and tie are not obligatory, as they were in 1986, the smart dress code was observed by all diners.

Given the embarrassment of choice, time was taken over champagne and canapés in the lounge to study the three menus. Whilst tasting menus are always attractive, we decided to choose from the seasonal carte.

Of the breads offered, focaccia was outstanding with its moist crumb and herby flavour.

An amuse bouche saw a seared scallop, perfectly timed to produce a caramelised crust and soft, succulent flesh. Curried lentils with a lemon grass and ginger foam provided a bold foil to the beautifully sweet bivalve.

The first starter featured a well seasoned ballotine of rabbit, gently poached to preserve its delicate gamey flavour. Slices and puree of baby carrot were lifted by a sweet and sour dressing. Brown beech mushrooms added textural interest whilst a velvety smooth, gently flavoured violent mustard ice cream, perched on dried crunchy grains, lifted this simple dish to lofty Michelin heights.

In another first course, the creamy, delicate quality of spiced foie gras was enhanced by a thin coating of gingerbread crumbs. Poached rhubarb cut the richness of this delectable piece of liver, whilst smoked duck and granola added contrasting flavour and texture.

Main courses were equally accomplished.

A thick fillet of utterly fresh pan fried red mullet had firm, yet translucent texture. Its robust flavour stood up to the strong tasting and well executed crab risotto and intense bisque sauce, roasted fennel added a muted aniseed flavour which complemented the other elements well.

Fine meat cookery was shown in a dish of Dexter beef. This rare breed, small in size but big on flavour, came in two forms: a medium rare fillet and unctuous, melting slow cooked shin. Potato mousseline, fresh morels, with their deeply earthy flavour, and shallot textures – tempura rings, whole and shredded caramelised – proved admirable accompaniments, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a deeply flavoured Madeira sauce.

Desserts show, possibly, the greatest imagination and creativity: Indeed a certain playfulness in evidence.

A deconstructed lemon meringue pie was, unlike many other modern versions, still recognisable as such. A rectangle of the thick, lemon curd pie was dressed with shards of crisp meringue and garnished with soft meringue peaks. A quenelle of pine nut ice cream, resting on crushed pine nuts and pine nut butter served transformed this essentially simple dessert into a highly complex and impressive one.

Another composite dessert centred on a lightly textured warm peanut cake. Richness was added by chocolate textures of soft milk chocolate mousse and firm discs of dark chocolate ganache. Salted caramel and bananas complete this indulgent confection.

Of the delightful petit fours served with coffee, the fruit jellies, macaroons and chocolates were particularly well made.

Overall, this was a first rate meal accompanied by equally good service that was well informed, solicitous but unobtrusive. Overseen by the charming Dominique, the restaurant manager who also recommended wines by the glass, the evening proceeded seamlessly to a most satisfying conclusion.

The picturesque village of Cartmel in the southern Lake District boasts two restaurants of distinction: the highly innovative, Michelin starred L’Enclume, and the less celebrated but nonetheless successful Rogan and Company. The two restaurants share the same owner, Simon Rogan, their own bio-dynamic kitchen farm, and a commitment to excellent cuisine.

Opened in 2007, and occupying a central location in the village, Rogan and Company is housed in an attractive grey stoned house with origins in the 16^th century. Despite its low, oak beamed ceilings, the restaurant is light and airy, with wide front windows, glass partitions and large mirrors giving a greater sense of space. Decorated in pastel shades with wooden floors and  clever spot lighting, the room has a fresh, contemporary feel.

Up till the start of 2012, Rogan and Company was noted for serving high quality bistro food. It has recently changed to a “restaurant only” concept, reviving the style of dishes offered in the early days of L’Enclume. Dishes such as salt baked kohlrabi with ruby chard and roasted buckwheat and cheese sauce or goat’s milk curd with rocket, beetroot and radish testify to this. Vegetables and herbs are given almost equal weight with meat and fish on starters and main courses.

That more people can experience the inimitable style of Simon Rogan’s cuisine, at more affordable prices, can only be a welcome development. With the same carte being offered for lunch and dinner, a three course meal, with six choices of starters, mains and puddings, can be enjoyed for £30-£35, (although there is a cheaper set price lunch menu.) The wine list is also an attractive prospect with affordable prices not in excess of £30.

In the kitchen, Chef Louie Lawrence, previously sous chef at L’Enclume, leads a team which treats top quality farmed and foraged ingredients with care, sensitivity and real flair. Precision in timing, balance of tastes, textures and colours, and elegant presentation are much in evidence.

Two well made breads were offered.  Pumpernickel, with its mild rye taste and dark colour, was particularly good in texture and flavour.

An amuse bouche of grilled asparagus preserved the intense flavour of this vitamin rich spring vegetable. Bacon hollandaise and crisp pancetta added a creamy smokiness which complemented it well.

A starter of soused mackerel was gently marinated, giving a light, bright taste to the dazzlingly fresh fish. The pickled vegetable garnish, which included red carrot, was offset by a sauce of mustard and dill, which added warming spice and aniseed herb flavours. These balanced the dish beautifully.

In contrast, another starter featured confit Goosnargh duck. The soft, melting flesh, paired with Jerusalem artichoke in soft and crisp forms, was lifted by a highly reduced sauce of and tarragon and mulled cider.

A main course described as poached chicken understated the complexity of the cooking which involved wrapping the flesh around a garlic mousse. The result was moist, delicate and gently aromatic. Enoki mushrooms, spinach and celeriac proved highly suitable garnishes whilst the whole dish was brought together by an intense, well flavoured jus. This was as exemplary dish with clear flavours and clean presentation.

Even more accomplished was a main course of wild Brill which was a veritable tour de force of fish cookery. The luscious, white flesh was perfectly timed to preserve its soft texture and delicate flavour. The fish was partnered with lobster dumplings, two crescent shaped ravioli with wafer thin fresh pasta encasing the beautifully sweet and succulent flesh of the crustacean. A light lobster cream added richness and crisp deep fried leeks gave texture and height to the dish. Visually, as with the other dishes, the presentation was stunning.

Desserts were less complex but equally well crafted.

Poached rhubarb, soft and sweet, was a riot of pink. Buttermilk custard and lemon was an excellent foil, giving balance with a hint of acidity.

Spiced pineapple tart saw a finger the confit fruit paired with coconut ice cream. Whilst the puff pastry lacked the richness normally associated with this variety, the ice cream was well flavoured, velvety smooth and of the correct consistency.

Service was cheerful, solicitous and knowledgeable.

Overall, judging by the meal we had, the new approach to reviving early L’Enclume style dishes is likely to be an unqualified success. But Rogan and Company should not be seen as a mere adjunct to its more distinguished sister restaurant a hundred yards around the corner. Here is a restaurant that is succeeding it its own right, popular with locals and those from further afield. The addition of rooms on the first floor, still to be completed at the time of writing, is likely to add to its attraction.

“I don’t want a temple. I don’t want a shrine. I just want pure gold happiness.” Despite Raymond Blanc’s plea, made over twenty years ago, guests at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and similar Michelin starred restaurants continue to show undue reverence as they worship at the feet of culinary gods. This attitude is encouraged by the formal service of liveried staff in hushed dining rooms, complete with luxurious décor, comfortable furnishings, fashionable crockery and fine napery. Such accoutrements are seen as the essential prerequisites for so called fine dining.

By contrast, and in line with his “New Vision for 2012,” Tom Aikens is amongst an increasing number of leading chefs who aim give diners a more relaxed, informal but stylish setting. Not that expense has been spared in the refurbishment of his eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, which reopened in January. Bare concrete walls, oak floorboards, mismatched bare tables and customised chairs give the dining room a dark, rustic tone; expensive but far removed from typical Michelin extravagance. This same simplicity extends to stoneware, slates and wooden boards on which many of the dishes are served. Additional unconventional features include the canvas wall with culinary quotations and space enhancing mirrors rotating on iron rods. Menus in envelopes, wine lists pasted in hardback books and petit fours served in old biscuit tins add to the novelty of the service. Perhaps the most controversial feature is the informal designer uniform – open neck shirt, tie and jeans – of the junior waiting staff.

All this change might divide opinion amongst the dedicated following Tom Aikens has attracted over his distinguished career. One thing they will all agree on, however, is the renewed vigour of his cuisine. It would seem that time during the six month’s closure was well spent in refining his cooking techniques, moderating – although not markedly so – the complexity of dishes, and developing new flavour combinations.

Sophistication of composition, clarity of taste, balance of texture and beauty in presentation continue to delight.

The menu comprises a carte of 20 savoury dishes and eight desserts. At £50 for three courses and £55 for the six and £75 for the eight course tasting menus, prices are competitive with restaurants of similar quality and, given the quality of ingredients and labour intensity and quality of the cooking, better value for money than most.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in March, enjoying a tasting menu with wines which utterly exceeded our high expectations.

An amuse bouche of duck cassonade with mushroom foam flecked with black truffles was at once rich, light and fragrant

A selection of canapés highlighted the enormous attention to detail lavished on these delectable morsels. Particularly impressive were the eel roulade with its gentle smokiness and creamy texture and tangy goat’s curd sandwiched between layers of crisp grated beetroot.

Breads, presented in a miniature sack, contained the outstanding bacon brioche – crisp, sweet, soft and crumbly. Equally accomplished were cep and buttermilk rolls.

Hand dived scallops, marinated with apple vinegar but retaining their inherent sweetness, contrasted with salty lardo crudo and bland tapioca. The composition was lifted by acidulated apple tarragon granite. The balance of tastes, textures and temperatures, enabling each element to retain its distinct identity, was astounding. (Wine Saint Mont Plaimont SW France, 2009)

The next dish proved high innovative. Pigeon breast, timed to a medium rare to retain its intense flavour, was served with truffle custard, foie gras, chocolate and mushroom puree and an array of green and red vegetable granules. Arranged on a dish to look like an artist’s palette, a delicate, pristinely clear pigeon consommé was poured over. The overall taste sensation  – gamey, fresh and vibrant – was exciting and memorable.  (Wine: Zinfandel Foxglove Paso Robles 2009)

A tranche of roasted foie gras was precisely rendered with a seared crust and soft melting creamy interior. Thyme sabayon added a herby lift whilst blackened spring onion added a bitterness which balanced the caramelised onion garnish.  (Wine: Pais de Quenehuao, Chile, 2009)

Soft textured, gently smoked Venison Tartar was well seasoned and spiked with juniper. It benefited also from the addition of grated walnuts, wild sorrel and hazelnut puree. Melba toast added crispness and provided an attractive garnish. (Wine: Bourgogne Roucevie Domaine Arlaud 2008)

Skilled fish cookery was seen in an accurately timed fillet of roasted John Dory. This was creatively partnered with sweet cauliflower floret crisp , well judged cumin spicing, cauliflower milk skin and brown butter. As with the other dishes, the main element and garnishes were harmoniously matched, whilst the whole ensemble was visually stunning. (Wine: The Observatory, 2006, South Africa)

A succulent and sweet fillet of Romney lamb, served pink, came garnished with ewe’s cheese, garlic confit, and finished with a piquant  sauce lifted by the addition of olives, capers and anchovies. (Wine: Rioja Olivier Riviere, 2009)

Finally, one of the three vegetable desserts was served. Candied beetroot was a veritable tour de force of invention, with yogurt parfait encased in cigarette of beetroot gel, nuggets of sweetened beets, flavoured meringue and port syrup.

Strong coffee and excellent petits fours – chocolates, tuiles, nougats and jellies – completed a memorable meal.

Service was knowledgeable, attentive and unobtrusive. Wine pairing, in particular, demonstrated the superb knowledge and skill of the head sommelier Raphael Rodriguez.

Overall, it is clear that the new Tom Aikens restaurant is not just about the more casual, understated refurbishment. More importantly, it is showcases a highly talented, reinvigorated chef near the top of his craft. I hesitate to say at the “top” as he continues to surprise us with his inexhaustible creativity and energy. A strong impression has been made amongst the critics in the first three months as the restaurant goes from strength to strength. We shall all watch the Michelin Guide in autumn with interest.

Chef: Joel Antunes

To some, a restaurant called Kitchen Joel Antunes might suggest a simple, relaxed approach to both food and décor, perhaps in the style of a bistro, complete with wooden floor and seating, tightly packed bare tables and a blackboard menu.

This is far from the case with Joel Antunes’s restaurant, which opened in November 2011. In line with its Mayfair location in Old Burlington Street, it exudes glamour and sophistication. The long glass frontage overlooks an attractive 40 seat canopied terrace, ideal for al fresco dining. Inside, the low ceilinged 95 cover dining room has a French patterned limestone floor, comfortable leather chairs and banquettes and fine napery on well spaced tables. The collection of artwork, including pieces by Damien Hurst, Tracey Emin and Banksy, are best seen during the day, as the evening spotlighting produces a distinctly dim effect.

Nor can the food be described as simple. Whilst traditional bistro dishes like Coq au vin, beef tartare and foie gras terrine appear on the menu, their preparation is lifted by the creative talents of Joel Antunes, who gained a Michelin star for his brilliant but short lived Les Saveurs in 1994. At Kitchen Joel, his carte, which gives plenty of choice with 14 entrees, 12 mains and 8 desserts, emphasises the dishes of Provence, such as salad Nicoise, duck gizzards, marinated peppers with boquerones anchovies, and baby artichoke salad. Italian influences are also present, as seen in aubergine balsamico and buffalo mozzarella, wild mushroom risotto with parmesan, and oxtail tortellini with Swiss chard. Cooking is technically precise, with clarity of flavour, balance of texture and elegance in presentation. Whilst not cheap, prices are fair given the quality of ingredients and the Mayfair location: starters average £12, mains £24 and desserts £8,

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in March 2012

Sliced baguette came with an olive oil and balsamic dip, as might be expected of the   Mediterranean theme of the food.

An entrée of Hamachi ceviche avoided the excessive acidity often encountered in lesser establishments. The soft, fatty texture and slightly bland flavour of the fish proved an ideal vehicle for the citrus marinade, which showed good balance in its sweet, sour and spiced elements. Slivers of radish gave crunch whilst coriander leaves added a lively freshness to the dish.

Another entrée of confit duck gizzards saw the succulent, flavoursome offal in a rich sauce paired with well made potato gnocchi. Skinned broad beans and delicate pea shoots offset the richness perfectly.

Wild mushroom risotto, served in dainty copper saucepans, benefitted from a well flavoured stock. The rich, creamy rice, properly al dente, delighted with its generous blend of cepes and parmesan. Here was basically a simple dish, cooked with care, that produced a taste sensation.

A main course of Blue shrimp saw six large prawns perfectly timed to retain their sweet succulence. Served on a base of curried vermicelli and seafood stock, the gentle spicing allowed the freshness of the shellfish to shine.

Coq au vin revealed the excellence of long slow cooking. Served in a cast iron cocotte, the flavoursome bird came with a glossy, intensely rich, high reduced – but not salty – red wine sauce. Properly garnished with lardons, baby onions and mushrooms, with the addition of baby carrots that added a splash of colour, this was another well executed dish.

The accompanying French beans were well rendered, although the gratin dauphinoise would have benefited from less cream.

Perhaps desserts are the most adventurous part of the menu with new creations such as Le “Kit Kat” caramel with tonka bean ice cream and semi freddo, chocolate streusel and coffee granite. However, classical dishes are not ignored; indeed, a caramel mille-feuille was a veritable master class in art of pastry. The crisp, delicate buttery layers simply melted in the mouth, whilst the caramel and crème patissiere added sweetness and soft texture to this simple but sublime offering.

Another favourite, Colonel a la Ciroc, saw a lively lemon sorbet doused with vodka. Caramel and vanilla ice creams were in the same league in terms of smooth, velvety texture and pronounced flavour.

Good coffee and petit fours completed a memorable meal.

The wine list treads a well trodden path, mainly through the regions of France. In addition to the 140 bins, there is a more affordable selection of 11 by the glass. Service is friendly, solicitous and eager to please.

Overall, Joel Antunes can be justifiably pleased with his latest restaurant, as his brief conversation with us at the end of the meal testified. No doubt Kitchen Joel, with its combination of good food and chic surroundings will hold its own in the fierce competition of London’s West End.