Passion, Precision and Perfection are epithets justifiably applied to Alexis Gauthier’s gastronomy. Since opening Gauthier Soho in 2010 and receiving plaudits from all the major guides, his restaurant has gone from strength to strength, delighting guests with exquisite cuisine, comfortable surroundings and highly professional service. To achieve all three simultaneously, especially the last given the lamentable decline in standards euphemistically dubbed relaxed formality, has become a rarity in the world of fine dining.

Set in a five storey terraced Georgian townhouse in Romilly Street, Gauthier Soho is a miniature maze of narrow staircases, uneven floors and varying sized dining rooms. This, indeed, is one of its many virtues – its smallness and intimacy. Ringing the bell of the glossy black door ensures a personal welcome before guests are shown to either of the two dining rooms – the Petit Salon on the ground floor or the Grand Salon on the first. (There are also two private dining rooms at the top of the staircase and a Chefs’ Room / wine cellar on the ground floor.) The high ceilinged, thickly carpeted rooms feature large gilt framed mirrors above the original marble fireplaces. Plain white walls form the backdrop to eclectic paintings and objets d’art. At lunch, ample natural light comes from the sash windows fitted with colourful floral blinds. In the evening, clever spotlighting supplements the dimly candlelit tables. Upholstered chairs in beige and well-spaced tables dressed in fine linen with monogramed napkins complete the elegantly designed salons.

A disciple of triple starred Alain Ducasse at his Louis XV restaurant in Monaco (1993-6), Alexis Gauthier progressed to gaining his own Michelin star in 2000 at Roussillon in Pimlico, where he was head chef from 1998 to 2010. After opening Gauthier Soho in 2010 – which used to be Richard Corrigan’s Lindsay House – another star followed after a year.

Passion is shown in Alexis’ inexhaustible creativity whilst being true to his classical roots. Invention is tempered with a sensitive caution, leading to unusual yet harmonious combinations in taste, texture and colour. Equal attention is paid to vegetables – Vegetronic, is his latest cookbook – as to meat and fish in the composition of dishes. Vegan dishes – highlighted in his Menu Les Plantes – also warrant serious consideration: where else amongst high end restaurants, could one eat a dish such as Tofu & Swiss chard gratin with roast garlic purée, crispy garlic & herb salad?

Precision comes from the accuracy of timing in cooking and in the balance of delicate flavours and contrasting textures. Uniquely amongst top chefs, Alexis rejects pre-weighing and timing in favour of judging by touch and sight. Such an instinctive approach demands far greater skill from his brigade of ten chefs. Where figures are called for, however, is in the calorie count for each dish, which is clearly indicated on the menu.

Perfection in the finished product is guaranteed. Menus change with the seasons, the ingredients being impeccably sourced. Generosity of spirit is evident in abundance: all dishes, even the smaller ones, are multi component, with distinct tastes identifiable. A conscious artistry is shown in their beautiful presentation. Attention to detail at every stage, from the dainty canapes with parmesan tuiles, through home baked breads to the delicious petit fours, is exemplary.

Nor is perfection confined to the food. The front of house team of nine, overseen by the understated resilience of restaurant manager Pierre Dumoulin, conduct a seamless operation, especially impressive given the cramped conditions and awkward shape of the rooms. Commis waiters negotiate the narrow staircase from the basement kitchen with sprightly step, allowing senior staff to present the dishes with considered aplomb. Service is correctly formal but not stiff, polite but not ingratiating, informative but not condescending. A suitable interval is allowed between courses, with diners’ requests often being anticipated – perhaps the acid test of excellent service.

With three sommeliers headed by Perrick Chapel, wines are taken seriously. The “dynamic and exciting” mainly French and Italian wine list avoids excessive mark ups. The restaurant also has its own thriving wine club. Assistant sommelier Domenico Barbieri, who served us presented, the flight of wines concisely, showing a real engagement with his craft.

The menu structure and price point are highly appealing, both gastronomically and financially. The carte, with three or four options at each stage, finishing with cheese or dessert, offers three, four or five courses for £50, £60 and £70 respectively. It is also possible to mix and match dishes from the same course. An eight course tasting menu, the Gout du Jour, featuring smaller versions of dishes from the carte, is competitively priced at £75. The vegan menu, Les Plantes, is £65, with wines pairings an extra £60 for each menu. Even better value can be had at lunch, where three courses with champagne, two glasses of wine and coffee is £45, or a four course tasting menu with champagne aperitif for the same price. Nor should we forget the free still or sparkling filtered water which is often charged for in lesser establishments. Certainly, no other high end West restaurant can match Gauthier Soho for prices and quality.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a busy Friday evening in early March to sample the tasting Gout du Jour.

Well-made canapes served with an aperitif showed minute attention to detail. Delicate tapioca crisps with cod roe mousse, roasted celeriac with horseradish and ricotta and herbs tartelettes served their purpose in tantalising the palate with mouthful explosions of flavour without stealing the thunder of the courses to come.

A selection of freshly baked breads, served with a generous pat of unsalted Normandy butter, included sour dough, basil and tomato focaccia, pain au lait with parmesan and red onions, and wild garlic brioche. They were exemplary in their crisp crusts, firm crumb and heady aromas and equally accomplished as those produced at Le Champignon Sauvage.

The first course saw a plump Scottish scallop, seared to produce a caramelised crust with meltingly soft, translucent flesh. Sauteed soya beans and oyster leaves added contrasting texture and freshness, whilst a deeply flavoured crustacean veloute, incorporating the scallop coral, lifted the dish. The firm acidity of the chosen dry white wine partnered the seafood well. (Wine: Savennieres-Roche-aux-Moines 2013, Domaine aux Moines)

Next came a delicately poached hen’s egg, its golden yolk cascading over sautéed wild enoki mushrooms, wild mushroom cream and a dashi emulsion. These soft, earthy elements were balanced by a light parsley veloute and crisp chicken skin. The lively fruit flavours and juicy acidity of the paired wine worked well with this dish. (Wine: Alsace Pinot Gris 2013, Domaine Josmeyer <Le Fromenteau>)

The third course featured a signature dish for which the restaurant has become renowned. An intensely fragrant Perigord black truffle risotto made from Acquarello rice, which absorbs more stock than other varieties without reducing it to a shapeless mush, was rich, creamy and moreish. Enhanced by aged Parmesan Reggiano, and Jus de roti, the earthy depth of flavour was stunning. The sherry- like Jura wine, with its spicy, almondy finish, was another inspired pairing. (Wine: Cotes du Jura 2012, Domaine Daniel Dugois)

It was interesting and unusual to be offered Sturgeon for the fish course. The pronounced piscine flavour and soft texture of this freshwater fish, timed to retain its succulence, was balanced by the relative subtlety of crisp cauliflower florets and smokiness of grilled early season leek. This dish was finished with a classic fish veloute and an appropriate luxurious garnish of Oscietra caviar. The light Pinot Noir style of the Austrian wine proved a suitable match. (Wine: Weinland 2014, Domaine Gutt Auggau <Atanasius>)

The meat course showcased the deep, sweet gamey flavour of Barbary duck in two ways. The thick breast, roasted to a medium rare, and shredded, meltingly soft confit leg. Garnished with roasted Kentish carrots and finished with a silky blood orange puree and a rich Madeira duck jus which lifted the whole dish, this was a simple yet accomplished dish. The full bodied red wine, high in tanin, complemented it well.  (Wine: Coteaux du Languedoc-Montpeyroux 2003, Domaine Alan Chabanon < L’esprit de Font Caude>)

The cheese course presented a slice of the unusual Secret du Couvent with its dense, semi firm texture and heady fragrance. Gingerbread, tiny apple and pear balls with red wine jelly and a balsamic reduction set off the creamy savouriness of the cheese, as did the caramel notes of the accompanying dry Madeira. (Wine: Madeira 10 yrs, Blandy’s <Sercial>)

Mango vacherin demonstrated the undoubted strengths of the pastry section. A golf ball size of crisp, delicately thin French meringue encased an aromatic sorbet of Alfonso mango. Dressed with drops of mango coulis and tiny cubes of fresh mango given a herbal lift, this light, refreshing dessert, partnered with a sweet New Zealand Riesling was a fitting prelude to the richer finale to come. (Wine: Marlborough Valley 2014, Framlingham <Select Riesling>)

Not having dined at Louis XV in Monaco, my first acquaintance with its eponymous dessert was by watching a TV programme in which Alexis Gauthier, who was Alain Ducasse’s pastry chef, championed it as the greatest dish in the world. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Alexis makes no apology for making it his signature dessert. Having eaten it several times at Gauthier Soho, I can see why it is seen as a dessert lover’s dream. Discs of crisp praline dacquoise topped with a 70% dark chocolate mousse, enveloped in a glossy ganache paradis and decorated with gold leaf formed this rich but light confection that oozed elegant, sophisticated indulgence. Although it is notoriously difficult to pair chocolate with wine, the selected Uraguayan sweet red, combining two different techniques for dessert wines, Barolo Chinato and Marsala, proved a perfect match. (Wine: Calenons N-V, Vinendo de los Vientos <Alcyone>)

Good coffee and petit fours completed this memorable meal, enhanced by the select flight of wines and impeccable service.

Why Michelin decided to withdraw its star defies belief. Not that Gauthier Soho needs a star to attract custom – it has already proven its worth. Certainly, the healthy numbers of diners, on average 25-30 for lunch and 45-50 for dinner, amongst whom there are a high proportion of regulars, testify to its success. Nevertheless, in the often unintelligible and unfair world of restaurant guides, a major injustice remains uncorrected. Fine Dining Guide will continue to visit this remarkable restaurant, and will follow its progress with interest.

Atul Kochhar has been in the vanguard of transforming Indian food from the traditional curry house staples into the sophisticated, elegant cuisine of contemporary fine dining. Having won Michelin stars first at Tamarind (2001) and then at Benares (2007), his career has seen openings of Sindhu restaurants on three P&O cruise ships, a partnership with Jatindar Singh at Indian Essence in Orpington and, since December 2014, a franchise at Sindhu in the Compleat Angler Hotel in the historic Thameside town of Marlow, Buckinghamshire.

The 2017 Good Food Guide lists four entries with marks of 5/10 or above for this relatively small town, no mean achievement given the exacting standards of this publication. That “Marlow is the new Ludlow” is now indisputable. It has seen a veritable flowering of destination restaurants in the last decade, including the Hand and Flowers, the Coach, Vanilla Pod and the nearby Danesfield House Hotel. On a site once occupied by Aubergine, overseen by Michelin starred Billy Drabble, Sindhu is emulating its success with 6/10 in the GFG with two AA rosettes.

Aptly taking its name from the Sanskrit for the Indus River, Sindhu boasts commanding views of Marlow weir. Insulated from the sound of cascading waters, the carpeted dining room is a stylish blend of traditional features – stained glass on the leaded windows, dark wood panelling and real log fire – with more contemporary touches such mirrored columns, spotlighting and abstract canvasses which punctuate the green grey décor. Bold fabrics used in the lemon and turquoise upholstered chairs and in the glitzy banquette which runs the full length of the restaurant provide comfortable seating around well-spaced, polished dark wood tables.

Just as the setting offers a mixture of old and new, so Atul Kochhar’s cuisine matches the authenticity of Indian cuisine – there is extensive research into the regional dishes of the subcontinent – with innovative modern British touches both in preparation and presentation. Spicing is subtle rather than bold, maximising flavour without excessive heat. Top quality ingredients are allowed to shine, with saucing enhancing their natural qualities. Timing is skilfully judged, whether in slow cooked or dishes needing less time. Combinations of ingredients can be unusual and exciting but always harmonious. The food is attractively displayed on a variety of surfaces including slate, wood and porcelain.

Menus include the full carte, featuring signature dishes such as soft shell crab, lamb shank and lamb cutlet, the highly popular seven course tasting menu (£65) and a good value weekday set lunch (at £19 for two courses and £22 for three).  Prices are fair, given the outstanding quality of the ingredients, such as Scottish scallops, Atlantic halibut and Romney Marsh lamb, and the skilful, innovative cooking. Menu descriptions are sparse, listing the main components with little information of cooking techniques, thus allowing for an element of surprise when the dish is served.

Connoisseurs will be impressed by the select and informative wine list. There is a good selection from Old and New Worlds with excessive mark-ups being avoided. The cocktail list also includes six non-alcoholic options. The Ginger Feast, with pressed pineapple and fresh lime spiced with fiery ginger beer was especially refreshing, and a pleasant accompaniment to the delicate bite sized lentil poppadoms with a trio of mango, tomato and coriander chutneys which started the meal.

The tasting menu, which we noticed many diners were choosing, proved the perfect introduction for those unfamiliar with Sindhu’s repertoire.

An amuse bouche of leek and potato soup fused a classic English starter with gentle Indian spicing, tantalising the palate with moderate heat and a long finish.

The first course of Aloo and Samosa Chaat, combined two staples from Northern India. This flavoursome dish of roasted sweet potato encased in crisp pastry, and crisp deep fried new potato was enlivened with dressings of yogurt, tamarind and mint, with a scattering of pomegranate seeds for sweetness and colour.

Next came Jal Tarang showcasing a large, beautifully fresh Scottish scallop, precisely timed to produce a caramelised crust and sweet, succulent flesh. What transformed this essentially modern British offering, with its velvety parsnip puree and deep fried crisps into a unique Kochhar creation was the spicy but not overpowering parsnip pickle, which lifted the whole dish. Set on dark slate, the contrasting colours of the ingredients also made this a visually appealing dish.

Equally accomplished was Meen Moilee, reflecting southern Indian influences. Here a fillet of Stone Bass – underrated but equally delicious as its better known cousin Sea Bass – was cooked to perfection with crisp skin and flakes of meltingly soft flesh. The balance of this dish was well judged, the freshness of the fish contrasting with the earthiness of a crushed potato and beetroot quenelle, with a rich coconut sauce, flecked with fresh coconut, bringing the other elements together well.

Lime sorbet provided a cooling citrus hit before the meat courses. Although, sadly, sorbets as an intermediary course has almost disappeared from modern British tasting menus, here it is entirely appropriate, allowing the palate to revive from the variety of tastes and textures which preceded it.

A northern dish of Murgh Makhanwala presented strips of succulent, smoky tandoori chicken supreme enhanced by a gently spiced and sweet Tomato Pulao, laced with butter and saffron. Raisin pilaf and paneer with spinach proved excellent foils for the richness of the chicken, soaking up the complex flavours of the sauce.

Erachi Chettinaad from the Tamil Nadoo region in south eastern India has proved to be a popular signature dish. A grilled cutlet from a Romney Marsh lamb, noted for its extra marbling, had been marinated in a Chettinaad mix of 21 spices to produce a sauce which, amazingly, complemented rather than overwhelmed the juicy, full flavoured lamb. Again, such deftness in the use of spices is the hallmark of Atul Kochhar’s gastronomy. A portion of dry polenta provided the necessary starch element whilst a dressed Kachumber salad of cucumber, tomato and bean sprouts and mint raita added a crisp freshness to offset the more aromatic elements.

Chapa Pulusa, a southern dish, featured a grilled fillet of Atlantic Halibut, the firm flesh of which was suitably partnered with caulifower Pakora and chickpeas. A Tamarind sauce, with its sweet and sour qualities, worked well with the robust textures of the fish, vegetable and pulse.

The accompanying warm nan bread was soft and light, the perfect vehicle for mopping up the delectable sauces and the slow cooked Black dahl with its deep, smoky flavour.

The final course was a trio of well executed desserts. Bhapa Doi, a delicate yogurt cheesecake with rose water added sparingly so as not to be overpowering. Mango Kulfi was light, creamy and full of fruit flavour. And chocolate and passion fruit disc was dark, intense and fragrant.

Coffee and petit fours completed this memorable meal, the service of which was seamless, dishes arriving with a well-judged interval between courses. It was overseen by deputy manager Jaspreet who was welcoming and informative, especially on the origin of the dishes. Although we only drank a glass of red wine with our meat courses, it was clear that Mark, the Sommelier who was busy serving other tables the full flight of wines, was an accomplished practitioner of his craft.

Overall, Sindhu is a class act in all respects, a distinctive addition to the Marlow food scene. The lively buzz of contented diners in a relaxed atmosphere reflects a strong local following with increasing numbers from further afield. A healthy weekday evening average of 30-35 covers, and full capacity at weekends, clearly testify to the popularity of Sindhu in a highly competitive market in the affluent Thames Valley. Fine Dining Guide will visit again to sample other dishes from the carte and will monitor Sindhu’s progress in the guides with interest.

The Perch is nestled on the western edge of the city in the hamlet of Binsey.  This thatched pub, with its origins in the 17^th Century, is accessible from the city either by a drive up Binsey Lane, a long single track road, or by foot on a delightful Thameside walk.  Thus, although you are unlikely to ever stumble upon The Perch by accident, the time spent getting there is worthwhile. On a dark winter’s evening, we took the least picturesque of those options. Clearly, another visit on foot in the summer, when the pub and its extensive gardens can be seen in all their glory, is essential.

Another advantage of its semi-rural location is the ample parking outside. Once inside the welcome is warm and the ambience relaxed. The open fire and log stacks, low ceilings, oak beams and exposed brickwork are classic features pleasing to the eye. In 2015, owner Jon Ellse lovingly renovated the old fashioned pub resulting in a modern gastro feel.

The main restaurant, conservatory, terrace and gardens can seat up to 200 in summer. A permanent marquee is also used for private functions. The conservatory where we had dinner on a weekday evening in December, was kept pleasantly warm by patio heaters.

Food at The Perch delights in its variety, simplicity and honesty. Dishes are freshly prepared and generously portioned. Combinations are classical rather than original but no less successful for that. Sourcing is important being local if possible, such as Kelmscott salami and chorizo, or regional, with squid from Brixham and fish and mussels from Cornwall.

A seasonally changing menu of eight starters, 11 mains and six desserts (including cheese) supplemented by daily specials, caters for all tastes. There is an unusually good choice for pescetarians and vegetarians. The former includes potted kiln smoked salmon, fish plate (beetroot cured salmon, kipper pate, house cured mackerel and crayfish cocktail), squid, sea bass, mussels, and fish and chips. Vegetarians will also be pleased with options including a veggie board, roasted cauliflower soup, globe artichoke with roasted heritage carrot, potato, parsnip and wild rice cakes, pumpkin and blue cheese tart, butternut squash with roast pepper and roast cauliflower. These dishes show the versatility of the kitchen, not that burgers, pies, pates and roasts are neglected; the venison suet crust pie which we almost chose, looked especially delicious.

A Sample Photo of a Pie at The Perch

Starters prices are very fair indeed, given the quality and quantity of the ingredients: starts range from £5.95 to £9.95, mains from £12.95 to £16.95, and desserts £5.50 to £5.95. English cheese and accompaniments are priced individually at £3.75 or four at £12.  An embarrassment of choice meant we had difficulty choosing.

The Butcher’s Board (£9.95) was an accomplished starter: the goose breast was gently smoked, enhancing its firm flesh and gamey flavour; home corned beef had a soft texture and a melting quality; game terrine was rich and well-seasoned; Kelmscott salami was deliciously spicy. Served with sweet pickles and gerkins which gave the acidic lift this charcuterie platter needed, this dish would easily satisfy any discerning trencherman’s appetite.

A surf and turf starter paired Brixham Squid with Kelmcott chorizo (£9.95). The seafood was accurately timed to be soft and firm without being rubbery. The chorizo offered a spicy hit, whilst sauteed Swiss chard and mustard crutons gave crunch and a mildly sweet and sour note. This was more contemporary starter in which all the ingredients worked well together.

This could also be said of the seafood special of the day (£20) featuring king scallops. They were large, sweet, succulent and spankingly fresh, with a caramelised crust to add colour and flavour. Celeriac puree gave an earthy smoothness, rocket leafs a peppery freshness, and roast apple wedges provided a gentle acidity to cut the richness of the scallop. The addition of black pudding and Parma ham crisps added welcome savoury notes and contrasting texture, although for balance of the dish needed more of these elements.

A simpler main was Ale battered Cornish fish with triple cooked chips.   (£13.95). The freshness of the fish was irreproachable and the beer batter well made. However, it would have been even better if it had been cooked more crisp, as parts had an avoidable sogginess rendering it heavier than necessary. The chips were as they should be: crunchy outside and soft inside. A generous helping of well-made tartare sauce and minted peas completed this favourite classic.

The dessert menu featured classic winter warmers, perfect for a cold December evening, such as spiced poached pear with chocolate sauce, treacle sponge and fruit crumble. The latter featured a comforting spiced plum, blackberry and almond crumble. Served in a metal pie dish which emphasised its traditional Britishness, the buttery richness of the topping was a perfect partner for the autumnal fruit compote beneath. The accompanying scoop of ginger ice cream was smooth and well flavoured, also acting as a rich sauce as it melted.

Cold desserts included baked white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake and a selection of sorbets and ice creams. Spiced apple sorbet and coffee ice cream were velvety smooth and deeply flavoured.

Overall, this was a very successful visit, the minor blemishes not detracting from the undoubted skill in the cooking. This was enhanced by the wine list, which avoided greedy mark ups and the efficient, courteous and knowledgeable service.

A short walk around the grounds afterwards reflected what a summertime gem this would be. With river frontage and plenty of outdoor seating, The Perch would be an ideal stop for anyone on a scenic walk from the nearby city. There is a shed bar, too, which serves beer on tap and burgers and other bites. Wonderfully simple but probably very effective.

I’ve been coming to L’Ortolan since 1984 when it was called Milton Sandford, chef-proprietor Richard Milton Sandford having gained a Michelin star two years earlier. With little serious competition in the Reading area – the same is true today – it was a magnet for lovers of fine dining both locally and those from further afield. Certainly, I never regretted the 17 miles drive from Maidenhead.

The size of the handsome two storey red bricked building, once a rectory and then a private residence, has been increased with the addition of two conservatories, one a lounge for pre- and post- prandial drinks, the larger one called the Glass Room, as an extension of the main restaurant. An air of formality pervades the airy, high ceilinged dining room, with its large mirrors, well-spaced, tables dressed in fine napery and comfortable upholstered chairs. Nevertheless, there has always been a relaxed feel to the service, which has never been stiff nor condescending.

Over 36 years the restaurant has seen changes of ownership and name, with expansion and refurbishment. During this time it has consistently retained its Michelin-starred rating under a galaxy of five acclaimed chefs, two of whom, Nico Ladenis, who renamed the restaurant Chez Nico, and John Burton-Race, who changed the name to L’Ortolan, were awarded two Michelin stars.

For Nico and his wife, who acted as front of house and tried to dictate menu choices to the diner, the customer was never always right. Lamenting his move to the provinces, he disparaged the unsophisticated “gin and tonic brigade” who spent too much time at the bar before moving to their tables, hence he closed the bar. This hardly endeared himself to his clientele, many of whom already felt uncomfortable with his imperious style. So despite his exquisite gastronomy, Nico’s time in Shinfield (before his subsequent return to London) was destined to be short – less than a year.

The mercurial but inspirational John Burton-Race stayed 12 years longer, delighting his guests with sumptuous cooking. In the early days of tasting menus, (1993), I attended a commissioned seven course menu degustation with wines. This came about after having answered an ad in the Sunday Times for a fix priced tasting with wines at Pierre Koffmann’s then Michelin three-starred restaurant La Tante Claire in Chelsea. This experience proved such as success that our group contacted John Burton-Race directly to commission a similar arrangement; John’s response was warm and generous, and an extraordinary night at L’Ortolan followed: The tastes and textures of dishes such as confit of duck with pan fried foie gras or sea bass and scallops with parsley mousse and tomato coulis are as clear today as they were then. One of life’s great dining memories.

After John’s departure, my understanding is that the building lay empty for around 18 months awaiting a buyer, this buyer proved to be Peter Newman (left), who found over £1m cash in under a fortnight to take the property on and move it forward. Alan Murchison became Head Chef for most of the period 2001 to 2014, having been appointed by Peter Newman who had invested heavily and did so on an ongoing basis in a state of the art kitchen, a demonstration kitchen, enhancing two conservatories and developing two private dining rooms – the Champagne Room and the Wine Cellar – and refurbishments of the main dining room.

Moving more to a precise style of cooking, having learned from Inverlochy Castle and Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, fine dining guide enjoyed many of Alan’s meals, the most memorable being a multi course dinner at the newly established kitchen table. This still exists today having been one of the first in the country, where customers may view and interact with the chef while sending out dishes from the passe. The modern version is a rather sophisticated upgrade from the original rickety bench and chairs.

Alan briefly moved on and Daniel Galmiche cooked Michelin starred food at L’Ortolan for a year, however, Alan Murchison made a return under new terms with proprietor Peter Newman to try and expand the business. This included a form of profit splitting service contract that allowed Murchison to watch the pennies but enjoy the creative freedom he had craved to maximise custom in every way he perceived viable.

Since Alan’s departure, the man who has always owned the building, Peter Newman, has taken direct control of the restaurant business. This is a refreshing change from the anonymity of many financial backers, who tend to keep at arms-length from the day to day running of the business.’  Chatting to Peter Newman later during the evening he demonstrated a clear excitement at the current project in progress at L’Ortolan restaurant.

Head Chef Tom Clarke, sous chef under Alan Murchison, then acting Head Chef after his departure, has more than justified the faith put in him. Having beaten off stiff competition for the position, he has retained the Michelin star held for 13 years by Alan Murchison. Having acquired his skills in the kitchens of the two Michelin starred Le Strato hotel in Courchevel and L’Oustau de Baumanière in Provence, Tom has refined them to a high degree at L’Ortolan, culminating in an exciting, distinctive style.

His modern British cooking, with European and Asian influences, is unashamedly complex. Multi component dishes, using top seasonal ingredients, give layers of flavour with balance of tastes and textures. Classical and contemporary technique are assured, timing is precise with imagination and skill shown in the sometimes unusual yet successful combination of ingredients. Foams and smears are kept to a minimum and clean presentation, on a variety of surfaces – wood, slate, stoneware and porcelain – is artful yet restrained. Menu descriptions are understated, adding an element of surprise when plates arrive at the table.

A recent meal demonstrated impressive attention to detail in every course.

The three breads offered, rosemary and sea salt focaccia, sour dough and granary roll were exemplary in their crisp crusts and firm crumb. The accompanying goat’s milk butter was infused with dill.

Delectable, labour intensive canapes excited the palate: creamy goat’s cheese and basil mousse sandwiched between parmesan biscuits and edged with shredded black olive combined strong, sharp tastes. Well-seasoned salmon tartare in a tuile cylinder was a delicate balance of soft and crisp textures. Best of all was a succulent warm duck terrine topped with quince puree which simply melted in the mouth.

An amuse bouche of shellfish bisque had a deep intensity enlivened with a truffle slice and coriander oil.

Next came a Japanese influenced dish. Seared scallops, with caramelised crust and soft, translucent flesh, were partnered with pickled mooli and cucumber. Interest was heightened by rounds of apple compressed with coriander oil and squid ink, bringing added texture and a gentle acidity. Smoked herring caviar acted as a seasoning. These elements were bought together by a subtle dashi nage with seaweed. Overall, this stunning dish showed highly creative flair moderated by a true understanding of flavour.

A finely judged duck liver parfait on gingerbread puree did full justice to this delectable piece of offal. Rich and velvety, it married well with cubes and tuiles of pain d’epices which gave warmth and texture. The muted sweetness of blueberry and sweet wine jelly balanced the richness of the parfait.

Skill in fish cookery was again seen in a fillet of pan fried Stone bass with crisp skin and glistening flakes of soft flesh. Delicate oyster tempura, with its foam and emulsion, added further layers of flavour, enhancing the main ingredient without overwhelming it. Segments of pink grapefruit added a hint of acidity to cut the richness of the dish whilst sea vegetables gave contrasting colour and texture.

Venison loin in pancetta, precisely timed and rested to a medium rare, maximised the flavour and texture of this tender cut of game. Parsley root, beetroot parsley root and crispy kale provided earthy, autumnal garnishes. A gru de caco tuile – in an original touch – added a crisp note, the chocolate in this case remaining separate from the intense, reduced red wine and ruby port sauce.

Desserts showed the same refinement and sophistication as the savoury courses. They avoided being over sweet, with contrasting textures and tastes to maintain interest.

Chocolate and cardamom ganache worked well with mint ice cream, torched clementine and orange gel, chocolate tuile, spiced sweet wine puree. Here, the bitter, sweet, citric, herbal and spiced elements were in perfect balance.

Equally accomplished was a playful signature dessert – a toadstool of salted chocolate parfait and coffee marshmallow. Blueberry sorbet and gel provided a refreshing contrast, whilst matcha green tea cake and chocolate soil gave the necessary balance of flavour and texture.

Good coffee and petit fours completed a memorable meal which was enhanced by highly professional service that is knowledgeable and solicitous without being intrusive.

Clearly, Tom Clarke has blossomed, successfully emulating the achievements of his predecessors and is now a force to be reckoned with in this highly competitive field. Leading a brigade of ten he has created a cuisine of which he can be justifiably proud. Fine Dining Guide will visit more regularly and will follow his career with interest.

Henley-on-Thames, renowned for its annual Royal Regatta has also attracted visitors to a host of literary, musical and and food festivals. This idyllic Oxfordshire town has no shortage of restaurant and coffee house chains, pubs and tea shops. Surprisingly, however, the well to do residents and the ceaseless influx of tourists have, until recently, been deprived of restaurants of quality. Unlike its Thames-side neighbour Marlow, which has witnessed a gastronomic rejuvenation in recent years, Henley has remained largely untouched by such developments. This is why the opening of Shaun Dickens’ eponymous restaurant three years ago marked a watershed in the culinary fortunes of the town. No longer do those looking for high end, serious cooking have to seek it outside the town. Indeed, Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse is becoming a destination restaurant in its own right.

With three AA rosettes, entries in Michelin and the Good Food Guides, and local and national distinctions – Oxfordshire Best Restaurant and Best Gastronomic Restaurant of the Year 2014, and Tatler Best of Britain the same year – it has impressed in a short period of time. Surviving a flood just nine months after opening proved a blessing in disguise, allowing for restructuring and redesigning which have further improved its fortunes.

A discrete canopied entrance leads to the bar where a dramatic gossamer like curtain separates it from the restaurant. The elegant, wooden floored dining room with a maximum of 43 covers has well-spaced polished tables and comfortable upholstered chairs. The décor, in masculine tones of brown and cream is unfussy, with only a few abstract prints to detract from views of the Thames. In summer, al fresco dining on the terrace is popular, although a table by the open bifolding doors is equally attractive. In the evening, clever spotlighting creates a seductive, warm ambience.

Having trained in the Michelin starred kitchens of Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons, Per Se and L’Ortolan, Shaun Dickens has coupled their influence to his own fertile imagination and technical skill to create a distinctive style of modern British cookery. He acknowledges his debt to other inspirational chefs. For instance, the deft use of marigold leaves in a watermelon dish was inspired by Oliver Dabbous. Working with trusted local and regional producers ensures quality ingredients as an essential prerequisite.

Novel yet harmonious combinations, often including lesser known or used ingredients, excite the diner. Pork neck braised in liquorice featured on a recent signature menu. His experimental cooking eschews conventional flavour combinations, being instead an exploration of the infinite variations of contemporary cuisine. Classical and modern techniques such as sous vide, compressing and torching maximise flavour and texture. Timing and temperatures are finely tuned, with a pleasing subtlety of taste in composite dishes, allowing each element to shine. Presentation is clean and precise, with a refreshing absence of smears and foams. There is a conscious artistry in the plating of dishes, without being too contrived. In chatting with Shaun, a youthful enthusiasm with a persistent desire to improve pervades his whole approach to his craft. He is a dedicated chef who, thankfully, does not take himself too seriously – after all, food “should be fun.” This is perfectly exemplified in a dish on his signature menu:

Smore, based on a traditional North American campfire treat, features marshmallows – diners are given a mini burner to toast them – and chocolate sauce sandwiched between two pieces of graham cracker. Messy, do it yourself, and hardly fine dining, but interactive and enjoyable.

A team of five in the kitchen create a la carte, tasting and signature menus and a good value fixed price option at lunchtime. Prices are realistic given the range of quality ingredients and the finesse in cooking. Menu descriptions are minimalistic, giving no indication of cooking method, adding an element of surprise.

A recent Lauren Perrier Dinner saw both innovative dishes and more conservative pairings.

Linseed and sorrel wholemeal breads, made on the premises, were exemplary in their crisp crusts and firm crumb.
A well flavoured amuse bouche of salt cod mousse, potato and leek veloute and potato crisp revealed strong attention to detail which augured well for the successive courses.

The first course featured watermelon as the star ingredient. Compression and charring – both fashionable techniques – produced a lively sweet and smoky taste with contrasting warm and cold temperatures. This worked well with tuna carpaccio and creamy buratta and stracciatella which balanced this dish with a creamy richness. Viola and Marigold leaves were not mere decorative flourishes but added a distinctive floral fragrance which lifted the dish. (Champagne: Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV)

Scottish beef carpaccio, the main element of second course, had perfect texture. It was eclipsed by a generous portion of accurately timed butter poached lobster, dressed with lobster oil. The shellfish was spankingly fresh, sweet and soft. Cauliflower florets roasted in beurre noisette, along with its puree, gave an earthy flavour and textural contrast. However, although the separate elements were well executed – apart from the carpaccio needing more seasoning –the pairing of beef with lobster seemed like two separate dishes. (Champagne: Laurent Perrier Cuvee Rose)

A breast of Creedy Carver chicken from Devon took pride of place in the main course. Gently cooked in a water bath, it was finished in the pan to crisp the skin, adding colour and flavour. Moist and tender, here was a superior ingredient treated with respect to enhance its inherent qualities. Partnered with braised salsify and turnip carpaccio which added crispness, truffle shavings which gave a heady but not overpowering fragrance, and a smoked potato espuma dressed with a hint of truffle oil, the components were bought together by an intense, rich jus. This well balanced dish, less adventurous than the other savoury courses, was nevertheless a triumph of taste and texture. (Champagne: Laurent Perrier Vintage 2006)

The complex, well executed dessert revealed the strengths of the pastry section of the kitchen. Chocolate parfait encasing a liquid centre of Henley honey was topped with blackberry puree and Italian meringue. Paired with frozen blackberry pieces, shaved chocolate and yoghurt sorbet, sweet and acidic elements were in perfect balance, making this a truly memorable composition.(Champagne: Laurent-Perrier Demi Sec.)

With only one minor blemish, this was a highly successful meal, and a good reflection of the restaurant’s consistently high standards. The seamless service, overseen by Gemma Dickens and Igor, the maitre d’, was welcoming, courteous and professional. Christie, who served us, showed a pleasing in depth knowledge of the dishes and presented the tempting selection of British cheeses – of which we were too full to partake – with interest and enthusiasm.

Like all chefs of his calibre, Shaun wishes to be recognised by his peers. In this respect, there could be no greater compliment than to have Raymond Blanc, his mentor for four years, name his restaurant as one of his favourite places to eat. Fine Dining Guide has enjoyed its visits to Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse and will follow its progress with interest, confident in the knowledge that further accolades will be awarded.