Much to report after a busy 2018. The site maintained a focus on restaurant reviews supplemented with feature articles, interviews and broad guide coverage. The iTunes podcast series remains – as always the links are to the written transcripts, you may find the podcast series on iTunes by typing “Restaurant Dining (UK)” into the main iTunes store search box.
fine-dining-guide continues to have a YouTube Channel for which the site commissioned and uploaded a professional piece on The Waterside Inn featuring Michel Roux Snr. After several years, this remains a popular video.
Top End Dining Analysed by the Chef: Five chefs have participated in a new article series designed not to provide ‘A N Other’ opinion about a chef’s output, to be lost in the now sea of increasing ‘noise’ about top end dining. These are something slightly different. In these articles the participating head chef analysed each of their dishes sampled against the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a Michelin star. How so? Discerning foodies will recall that at The Michelin Guide GB&I launch event for the 2018 Guides, a slide was briefly discussed by Michael Ellis (at the time WW Director of Michelin Guides), which for the first time highlighted the five criteria followed by inspectors in the awarding of Michelin Stars. Michael Ellis confirmed these under interview on that day, as a reminder he explained:-
“The first and most important criteria is the ingredients, all great cuisine starts with great product – the actual product itself is considered for freshness, quality, flavour and texture and so on. The second criteria is mastery of cooking technique. The third criteria is equilibrium and harmony in flavours; the plate must be in balance, so the sauce is not, for example, overpowering the flavour of the fish or that the seasoning of the dish is found to be exactly as it should be. The fourth criteria is regularity (or consistency) and this means starter, main and dessert are all of the appropriate standard and that each are also consistent over time. Finally, value for money is the fifth criteria.”
Rob Palmer: Michelin Starred Hampton Manor is west of Birmingham, a restaurant with rooms where traditional meets innovative. Rob takes the finest ingredients and allows three flavours to shine through in each dish.
Robby Jenks: Formerly of Gidleigh Park (two stints) under Michael Caines and a spell at Whatley Manor under Martin Burge, Robby is now seeking a Michelin Star at The Vineyard.
Niall Keating: Blazing a trail at the ever superb Whatley Manor, Niall was recently awarded The Michelin European Young Chef of the Year 2018, clearly one to watch as he bids to add more accolades to his burgeoning CV.
Simon Addison: Head chef of the Dining Room at Chewton Glen, Simon takes us through the processes at a large hotel kitchen that has once held a Michelin star.
Tom Clarke: L’Ortolan in Shinfield has a long standing relationship with the Michelin Guide, Tom is the latest chef to show his talents in terms of accolades at this favourite haunt.
Interviews: A series of interviews have been conducted with various indutry figures.
Pictured from above left to right:-
Alex Dower: A new driving force behind food and beverage at Harrods, Alex has quite a story to tell about the developments at this institution.
Silvano Giraldin: An industry front of house legend, having contributed to a lifetime of memories for customers at Le Gavroche, Silvano maintains his leadership role in the industry as a judging trustee of the Gold Service Scholarship. In this interview Silvano takes us through the journey of his illustrious career.
Adam Smith: Having spent a decade working his way through the ranks of the kitchen at The Ritz, Adam achieved individual Michelin recognition at Coworth Park, matching his mentor John Williams!
Atul Kochhar: A proud family man, Atul Kochhar takes us through his career and achievements in this interview.
Peter Harden: Industry figure and co-founder with his brother of the Harden’s Guides, Peter is not short of an opinion in this wide ranging interview.
Andrew McKenzie: 20 years of leadership at The Vineyard, this popular industry figure and former Hotelier of the Year shares his candid views on the state of play in hospitality.
In addition, interviews were conducted with the then WW Michelin Director Michael Ellis, Michelin two star chef Simon Rogan as well as a separate interview piece with Robby Jenks.
Twitter/Facebook/Instagram: The three social networking platforms continue to deliver good traffic to the site but also offer a shift to providing focus for photo logs, video logs along with a general news feed. Indeed more and more unique content is appearing on these platforms as they offer a digital web presence for ‘fine dining guide’ in their own right – Facebook has over 2,814 likes, Twitter enjoys over 7,693 followers and Instagram 1,414 followers. Each may be found using the handle @finediningguide.
Facebook and Twitter have progressively introduced more detailed analytical data about the performance of entries/tweets as well as the overall page/feed. This proves very useful in tracking which information is considered most valuable to an audience and tailoring entries accordingly.
Restaurant/Hotel Reviews: Reviews by Simon Carter and Daniel Darwood have included numerous visits to venues from Edinburgh to the Lake District as well as around London and the home counties… (See Reviews)
Guides: The 2019 GB Guide season took place during September 2018 (as applicable to fine-dining-guide). The ‘gold standard’ of Michelin Guide GB&I 2019 was eagerly anticipated with some buzz about the possibility of a new Michelin three star in GB&I. In the event, three restaurants have been newly awarded-two stars: Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs in Bloomsbury from chef James Knappett; CORE by Clare Smyth in North Kensington (which goes straight into the guide for the first time with two stars); and Moor Hall in Aughton from Mark Birchall, which gained its first star in 2018. Sadly, Le Champignon Sauvage under the legendary and tireless David Everitt-Matthias was awarded one star instead of two stars, likewise Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley received one star instead of two and Gidleigh Park under a new chef was awarded one star. In all, five 3 stars, twenty 2 stars and 155 one stars (21 new) were awarded. In the Bib Gourmand category 143 restaurants were awarded (27 new).
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw (10/10) enjoyed number one status in the Waitrose Good Food Guide 2019 for the second year in a row while L’Enclume (10/10) retained its lofty status in second place. New entry CORE by Clare Smyth in North Kensington (10/10) also followed in the illustrious footsteps of Chez Nico, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and The Fat Duck in achieving maximum marks and found third place in their Top 50 restaurant list.
There were new 5 AA Rosettes gained in the AA Restaurant Guide 2019. In addition to Claude Bosi being awarded Chef’s Chef of the Year 2019, Bibendum was awarded 5 AA Rosettes. CORE by Clare Smyth in North Kensington and Moor Hall in Aughton from Mark Birchall were also given the 5 Rosette accolade – familiar names plus some consistency found at the top end of the leading inspector led guides.
New 4 AA Rosette restaurants were Adam Reid at The French, Manchester: Burlington Restaurant at the Devonshire Arms, Bolton Abbey: Dinner by Heston, London: Driftwood, Portscatho: The Man Behind The Curtain, Leeds: Tassili, Jersey: The Tudor Room at Great Fosters, Egham.
Top Restaurants Lists 2019: While still awaiting the January review of awards by the AA but with all three main guides for 2019 published, fine dining guide are in the process of updating the ‘Top 100’ feature that lists top restaurants in London, Scotland and Wales based on a formula applied to leading guides to give an FDG score per restaurant. There will be an associated Top 25 Restaurant in Britain 2019 Guide editions feature coming soon.
Opinion: At least two luxury hotels with quality restaurants have understood a trend in terms of high value clients. Both Chewton Glen and Hampton Manor have accommodations that suit the wealthy client who desires some peaceful (and effectively private) home away from home time but with the luxuries associated with a high quality hotel. Hampton Manor offers the convenience of a holiday hire cottage but with all the facilities of a hotel, a Michelin standard restaurant, and ‘pamper rooms’ at the end of the drive. Similarly, Chewton Glen Treehouse properties are tucked away but replete with a private concierge cum butler to take care of these customers’ every need, as well as being a buggy ride away from the luxuries of the hotel. In addition, numerous private services are available to clients at each of these properties. James Hill, owner at Hampton Manor, explains that high value clients warrant specific customer relationship management to make them belong, be it to a club like arrangement or simply assisting them at key moments (for example, by putting on a lunch at short notice in a private room) to assist in encouraging long standing high value custom.
For a while now there has been increasing demands on front of house to deliver value add to all customers as part of the standard offering – simply offering a social meeting place where you happen to have something to eat is no longer enough. These extra demands are also increasing in scope and range but vital to developing business. It may take the form of chefs entering the dining room to present dishes or customers having the option of a cocktail in the restaurant’s own gin room/distillery (or at least a selection of specialty gins or whatever delight it may be that the restaurant uses as a hook). There may be seeing field to fork from a kitchen garden or having a cookery school with an open kitchen or having interactive kitchen tables. Perhaps promoting themed wine lists (organic/biodynamic English championing et cetera) or providing bespoke offerings in private dining rooms or offering guest chef nights. Some restaurants put on a dinner dance or have a golf day and so on. The days of a little liquid nitrogen are numbered as being enough!
Hampton Manor demonstrate this idea further in their Full Afternoon Tea concept – scones with cream and jam are the only recognizable element of the traditional Full Afternoon Tea – opening infotainment includes a presentation from the head waiter and a chef of the new concept, the experience begins with a themed cocktail based on William Morris, the story telling here (and yes story telling is a significant value add! See, from Blumenthal to Tom Sellers) is that Morris’ arts and crafts movement ideals from the 19th century pervade the house. Then some dry ice for effect from the chef. The food itself arrives in multi-course stages, mini savouries are re-imagined from the Michelin starred restaurant menu (instead of finger sandwiches which are nowhere in sight) and cakes replaced by creative interpretations of the restaurant’s desserts. Even the tea itself was a presentation of specialty loose leaf products. Wonderful concept and very popular.
The breadth of information now available via web content (and especially social media) has naturally encouraged customers to become more adventurous in their tastes. Not only are customers now generally fascinated by detail of quality but in addition all levels of established, emerging and new cuisines have become affected by the continuous search for expression, authenticity and individuality.
In fact, the speed of this observed change is witnessed simply in the tea and coffee menus at Michelin starred Amaya in London, which read like the kind of sophisticated notes once reserved for the greatest of wines from the Médoc Classification of 1855! Consider Balseri Gold 2nd Flush Assam – 2016 rich, sweet, malty and full bodied tea typical of Assam or a Wonder Classic Darjeeling, 1st Flush Gopaldhara Gardens – 2017 tropical fruit notes, papaya, mango with sweet white florals. Where once coffee was black or white before Espresso, Cappuccino and Latte were imported into restaurant fayre so now it is Indian Monsoon Blend which is fragrant and smokey with dark caramel overtones which is blended with the exclusive Indian cherry parchment coffee. This highlights the need for restaurants to deliver a new level of discerning understanding in the details of quality, something which has become standard to satisfy this new breed of knowledgeable customer.
Michelin produced a live launch event that was broadcast simultaneously over the web via Facebook. Michelin teamed up with various sponsors for the launch event. Presumably this commercial move has been extended globally to protect the resources at Michelin in the digital age (during the move from print media) and thereby defend their quality, integrity and leadership position. This year a strong turn out of chefs came to support the Michelin launch process. We await with interest the actions of the guides to maintain their positions in the ever more dynamic world of top end restaurants and their demanding customer bases.
Until next time Happy Eating!
An “area of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance“. Since 1968 Hampton-In-Arden has been defined as one such Conservation Area. The church of St Mary and St Bartholomew dates from the 12th century with additions in 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Its reputed to hold a tomb containing the heart of a Knight’s Templar who died on a crusade with Richard the Lionheart. The church was restored in the 19th century.
In 1086 the village appeared in the Doomsday Survey as Hantone but was also known as Ardene. Across the centuries the land of Hampton-In-Arden passed between the crown and many notables of royal court significance, particularly in Tudor times. George Fentham (17th Century) was perhaps the most famous non-royal benefactor to the village, the successful businessman was a true philanthropist leaving a trust to support developments and relieve hardship from the poorest in the community. Mr Fentham’s legacy lives on with an eponymous club, green and hall.
Sir Robert, Prime Minister (left), his son Sir Frederick Peel (right)
During late 18th and early 19th century, 1st Baronet Robert Peel was one of the original Lancastrian cotton mill owners during the industrial revolution. He made a vast fortune from the textile industry, this afforded his eldest son, 2nd Baronet Robert Peel the best of education at Harrow and Oxford, he would go on to twice become Prime Minister and founder of the modern police force. He was the first ever man to come from a business background to become Prime Minister. Sir Frederick Peel would also be educated through the family fortune and enter politics and inherit Hampton-In-Arden from his Prime Minister father who had acquired it as investment land. Sir Frederick proved quite a visionary for Hampton-in-Arden, building and developing shops, housing and lodges. In 1855 he built Hampton Manor.
Fjona and James Hill
Relaunched in 2009 by James and Fjona Hill having been lovingly restored, converted and developed into a beautiful luxury restaurant with rooms, with significant sections further redecorated in 2015. Set in 45 acres, boasting 15 luxury appointed rooms and suites which seamlessly blend the richness of its history with the contemporary demands of the modern customer – a ‘home from home’ with state of the art twists – all this, yet respecting centuries of heritage that delves far beyond the garlanding of rooms with the names of the great and the good who have graced the estate over the centuries.
The visit started on the driveway! Providing by chance a stunning visual first impression as we arrived through the gates and into the main entrance way, with the manor house straight ahead and to our left a Mclaren and Rolls Royce event discreetly hosted. Predominantly out of eye and earshot but just enough on view to admire. Stepping through the entrance door, the meet and greet was exemplary. Ably assisted at the reception desk that sat just inside the house, tucked away to our right. As we turned more staff were waiting to help us to our room and tell the first of many ‘soul of the building stories’ in the wide and welcoming main reception. Indeed, throughout staff exhibited knowledge which was shared carefully and cleverly to optimize the pleasure of the guest.
Having been built at the height of the rewards to Britain of the industrial era, and given his family heritage, it is easy to see that Sir Frederick Peel celebrated those developments by having the likes of Industria proudly engraved on the staircase. There are also three examples of the imposing carved figure of a lion holding a shuttle from a loom found in a cotton mill. The figure represents Sir Frederick’s grandfather, 1st Baronet Robert Peel, as ‘protector of industry,’ in this case his lucrative textile factories during the industrial revolution.
Contrary to this strong industrial imagery, Sir Frederick Peel appears to also have been an advocate to a certain extent of Romanticism, a movement which looked back fondly to a memory of the past through literature, poetry and arts and crafts. The antithesis of the industrial revolution, few were less vocal on this subject than a champion of the movement, William Morris. Some might argue an early socialist, Morris had clear ideals about the quality of design of textiles in a way that industrialised production methods could not match, ironically this made his work very labour intensive and so hard to produce in a cost effective manner. Such challenges saw Morris’ craft fall from the mainstream. His work however is celebrated throughout Hampton Manor. It may be that Sir Frederick looked back on the challenges of industrialisation – pauper child labour, terrible working conditions, excessive hours – challenges which dogged both his father and grandfather later in life and later still in politics.
William Morris (1834-1896)
The works of William Morris are a thing of beauty and Hampton Manor continues Sir Frederick Peel’s interest by paying tribute to Morris, not only in influence of theme, style and décor but more creative and modern ways such as the beautiful afternoon tea. The introductory ‘Red House’ cocktail was wonderfully conceived, constructed and presented.
Indeed this proved our immediate appointment after arrival – Like industria versus Romanticism afternoon tea embodied the innovative versus the traditional.
The service started simultaneously for all guests with no staggered bookings. The event began with an informative presentation of the concept from the head waiter, alongside a chef demonstrating dry ice. The multi-staged process started in my case with the William Morris inspired drink with an English sparkling wine from Nyetimber described as an alternative option.
A succession of courses followed including reimagined versions of Peel’s dinner savouries in place of the obsolete finger sandwiches. Lalani rare loose leaf tea was presented in jars, alongside the more traditional scones with clotted cream. A further course, which instead of traditional pastries, found tasters of Peel’s desserts.
Overall the package was a huge hit and remains understandably popular with guests and local visitors.
A tour given by Gianrico (deputy GM) took in the Parlour – the room which hosts the afternoon tea, Peel’s restaurant dining room, tasting toom, a private courtyard, library, the walled garden plus a look at ‘The Cottage’.
Upon entering Peel’s, the mixture of stained glass windows, oak paneling, William Morris wallpapers (the latter found in half the bedrooms and suites) make a bold statement. A kind of mid-Victorian mixture with many beautiful contemporary touches. Indeed, you may be forgiven for imagining the sights, smells and sounds of a Tudor feast at William Self’s hand-planed long oak table, that above all else takes centre stage in the restaurant. The concept of gathering, socializing, sharing together, like friends away from home in a relaxed atmosphere, works very well indeed.
The kitchen table or tasting room, appears more a 19th century gentleman’s study, perhaps unashamedly only vaguely converted but undeniably fit for purpose as the juxtaposed collection of state of the art cuisine is delivered from Rob Palmer’s kitchen to the study table. The modern thinking, organic, biodynamic, English championing, wine list that allows wine lovers to travel in any direction on the list from the traditional to – you guessed it – the innovative. Yet further evidence of the theme encompassing our visit.
The walled garden has proven a rapidly developing success over the previous 12 months, delivering more and more consistent quality produce. As owner James Hill pointed out, the process of being connected to the seasons simply by seeing the vegetables growing in the walled garden is good for the souls of the chefs working in the kitchen of Michelin starred Peel’s restaurant. The garden provides more evidence of the field to fork mentality that is gastronomically sweeping the nation. In addition, Bee hives have been put in place to harvest home produced honey during the forthcoming year.
Just beyond the walled garden resides Manor Cottage which sleeps 4-6 (adults only), the separate property is marketed as a home away from home hideaway for those that wish the convenience of a holiday hire cottage but with all the facilities of a hotel, a Michelin starred restaurant, and ‘pamper rooms’ at the end of the drive.
In terms of new approaches, owner James Hill pointed out that head count had been allocated to customer relationship management for particular types of custom. Hampton Manor has appreciated both its undeniable quality in the product offering but crucially how this sits alongside its geographical opportunity: Situated close enough to Birmingham city centre, the NEC and the airport, the result is business potential from providing the right kind of relationship focus on high value clients. As one example, Peel’s does not officially open for lunch but for certain customers a club-like service may be offered to encourage such patronage.
This also concluded our tour with the charming Gianrico, later that day we took a drive around the local villages before heading back to Resort World at the NEC, a 15 minute drive, to catch a movie. A staff member had explained that we could alternatively pop into Solihull, also a 15 minutes drive, if a movie was our activity of choice for the afternoon. This actually allowed a wedding event to take place back at Hampton Manor so in all the property was very busy.
Robert Dudley was the name of our first feature room – An Earl of Leicester who bought Hampton Manor estate in 1572. The aforementioned George Fentham room provided our second night stay with amazing views out of the large period sash windows to gardens situated at the back of the manor. Across the property the thought, effort and attention to detail provides a perfect feel, a far cry from any corporate homogeneity, the individually themed rooms are completely on point for the luxury demands of the modern market. Good sizes, high ceilings, and sumptuous fabrics. A large comfortable bed is supplemented by modern comforts of technology via TV, iPod dock and high performance Wifi along side the creature comforts of organic tea and cookies, or a pampering roll top bath or walk-in shower.
Over second morning breakfast we were joined by owner James Hill whose passion and vision, shared by his wife Fjona, have driven Hampton Manor continuously forward in the delivery of the details that lead to perfection. Indeed, they remain open minded about opportunities, keeping a watching industry brief for any ideas on the investments and achievements of the likes of Mark Birchall at Moor Hall or by listening to proven market leading consultants about how best to achieve their goals. Overall, a happy making stay in a beautiful property with charming staff and food to match. A great success story in such a short space of time, no doubt the property will continue to thrive under the astute stewardship of the Hill’s, of whom – were he looking down – Sir Frederick Peel and his ancestors would be feeling rightly proud!
Hampton Manor
To Book: 01675 446 080, book@hamptonmanor.com
Shadowbrook Lane, Hampton-In-Arden, B92 0EN
Map: Hampton Manor Map
This article is the fifth in a series designed not to provide ‘A N Other’ opinion about a chef’s output, to be lost in the now sea of increasing ‘noise’ about top end dining. This is something slightly different. In this article the chef will analyse each of their dishes sampled against the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a Michelin star. How so? Discerning foodies will recall that at The Michelin Guide GB&I launch event for the 2018 Guides, a slide was briefly discussed by Michael Ellis (at the time WW Director of Michelin Guides), which for the first time highlighted the five criteria followed by inspectors in the awarding of Michelin Stars. Michael Ellis confirmed these under interview on that day, as a reminder he explained:-
“The first and most important criteria is the ingredients, all great cuisine starts with great product – the actual product itself is considered for freshness, quality, flavour and texture and so on. The second criteria is mastery of cooking technique. The third criteria is equilibrium and harmony in flavours; the plate must be in balance, so the sauce is not, for example, overpowering the flavour of the fish or that the seasoning of the dish is found to be exactly as it should be. The fourth criteria is regularity (or consistency) and this means starter, main and dessert are all of the appropriate standard and that each are also consistent over time. Finally, value for money is the fifth criteria.”
Rob Palmer honed his craft at Peel’s, so named after the former prime minister Sir Robert Peel, whose onetime estate in the picturesque village of Hampton-in-Arden, now houses the luxury restaurant with rooms Hampton Manor. Today the infrastructure for guests is abundant with road and rail a short distance away. A short drive from the M42, west of Birmingham, finds this peaceful idyll. Rob was originially sous chef to Martyn Pearn. After 4 years under Michel Bourdin and twelve years of Michelin stardom across La Reserve (Bordeaux) and Buckland Manor (Cotswolds) Martyn proved a great mentor in the grounding of classical technique. From September 2014, at the tender age of 27, the opportunity arose for Rob Palmer (below) to take the reins and stamp his own personality and creativity on the developing kitchen at Hampton Manor.
Ably and astutely developed by stages in Michelin Two Star kitchens such as Andrew Fairlee and Nathan Outlaw, by the 2017 ‘guide season’ Rob had led Peel’s restaurant to a first Michelin Star in the GB&I Guide, along with the award of 4 AA Rosettes and a Michelin Welcome and Service Award, all of which justifiably recognised both the wonderful food and front of house found across Hampton Manor.
Peel’s wins 2017 Michelin Welcome and Service Award
Onto the food, the dishes to be analysed by Rob across the five criteria are langoustine, beef, eel and chocolate led plates.
Consistency and value for money will be considered separately before each dish is discussed in terms of the other three criteria. To aid consistency as well as development, each chef is given their own recipe book which is to include the house dishes as well as work on creative input to the team. The rule is that a recipe can be documented only after the chef has twice made that recipe successfully – twice is to ensure the difference between understanding something in theory and delivering it in practice. So typically Rob will provide his book and taste the dishes to check that each chef can produce the dishes to the correct consistent standard. During service Rob tastes dishes before they reach the customer or if Rob is not available the sous chef will taste the dish. Incoming chefs are trained thoroughly, which is a natural insurance of consistency, anyone who comes in shadows a section for a period of time until they are comfortable.
In terms of creation or evolution of dishes, not everything has to come from Rob, it is a collective effort involving tasting and refining, before agreeing whether changes or new dishes make it to the menu. Naturally as dishes evolve the taste make-up of the whole dish will change, so in addition to taste checks during any given service, every couple of weeks dishes are collectively re-checked. This ongoing tasting process ensures that dishes are served as intended and that no deviation has happened (by accident) over the course of say twenty services. This is very different from a chef unilaterally deciding (typically in a very large kitchen environment) to do something differently during service outside of the house recipe for a dish, the nature of the Peel’s kitchen is close knit and the value add of each chef clearly visible from front to back of the kitchen, so such an instance is ruled out.
When asked if Rob felt he was a scientific or instinctive chef, he felt that instinct was critical to being successful at the top end of the industry in that all ingredients are unique, so simply applying the science of weighing things out and cooking for a set period of time will take a chef so far but mastering the art means having instinctive creativity in the kitchen. Peel’s keep up with seasons and pay focus and inspiration to the concept of an English walled garden (below), the garden at Hampton Manor is in its first year but this is developing into a stunning resource. While Rob will employ a few different techniques and Asian influences in the dishes produced, the protein, vegetables and garnishes have a clear English focus.
Hampton Manor Walled Garden
In terms of value for money, there exists a kitchen GP, but the hotel as a whole may meet in the middle with Peel’s, so say, large functions naturally yield higher margin compared to Peel’s top end restaurant kitchen being afforded a lower margin. We put on a seven course menu for £95 and the customer will get a pre-dessert, snacks, amuses (as traditional ‘extras’ on a menu) but in addition premium produce such as Wagyu Beef or Langoustine may feature in dishes: How many top end independent restaurants are required to charge a supplement for these sort of luxuries? The nature of the way the hotel works allows Rob to put on these wonderful premium ingredients for the customer.
Beef comes with a certain masculine comfort and accessibility factor, the kitchen experimented a couple of years ago with taking beef off the menu but brought it back by popular demand. Rob decided that rather than offer a kind of cliché like ‘fillet of beef’ (which has been done so often), Peel’s would instead offer rare and premium breeds such as Longhorn and Wagyu. While these breeds have limited access, they remain the best choices for kind of sheer quality and flavour that turns customers in regulars.
Now the three dishes, Langoustine (above), Beef, Eel and Chocolate led dishes are analysed by provence of ingredients, cooking technique and balance and harmony on a plate.
The Scottish Langoustines are from Keltic Seafare, which the kitchen get in every week and are beautiful products. Nothing is wasted, the shells help make the sauce with a little ginger for some heat (added to the bisque). The dish is served with leek. The langoustines have a delicate flavour so to cook and season it naturally brings out the best of the product. Rob consciously doesn’t over manipulate the ingredients which could lead to overwhelming the natural balance and harmony of a dish. The philosophy is to try and stick to no more than three flavours on a plate. In terms of the langoustine dish Rob would want no more that the taste of langoustine, ginger and leek cooked properly and accurately seasoned.
The three flavours of the Wagyu Beef dish are beef, carrot and black garlic (above). The carrots are from the walled garden, an English black garlic which is sourced from the UK, and the thoroughbred Wagyu beef from Aubrey Allen. Aubrey Allen sources the beef from Earl of Stonham farm which offers the best Rob had tried on the market. The beef is cooked sous vide at fifty-six degrees for six minutes and then quickly seared in a pan to give it a little caramelisation. The brushed glaze of soy and sugar works very well. The black garlic ketchup enhances the natural flavour of the beef and complements the dish.
The eel dish (above), the sustainable eel is acquired from the Devon Eel Company, already smoked as the kitchen don’t have the capacity to smoke them in house and the consistency and quality is superb. The team fillet, skin and portion the eel before pan frying for less than a minute. The Kohlrabi is cooked sous vide in preparation and then to order is diced and roasted in a pan with miso butter. The Kohlrabi is also blitzed with a 2% salt solution and fermented for a week in sous vide bags. When ready, they squeeze the juice out and infuse the eel bones. The result is loads of natural seasoning, smokey eel, salty sea herbs (samphire or sea perslane) and an acidity from the juice that bring together the dish perfectly.
The Chocolate dish (above), Rob had been drawn to the idea of the chocolate notes in sherry combining with chocolate. Each element of chocolate has different textures and intensity through different percentages of cocoa. There’s biscuit, croustillant and a frozen mousse to go with sherry. Rob says proudly “I love this dish.”
Not only does the cooking at Peel’s delight the most discerning of palates but the needs of the market in general are met squarely between the eyes. The mantra of three tastes on a plate, where the key is in the clear quality of ingredients prepared and cooked properly, is a rule that has reaped dividends. Add to this a warmth of welcome from service that is barely matched across the country and customers are inevitably woo’d by this irresistable combination. The customer base naturally draws from the growing fanbase of Michelin dining from across the flourishing Birmingham area, where no less than six Michelin starred restaurants reside. Fine Dining Guide look forward to returning in the near future and following the great progress made by Rob Palmer and his team. Long may their success continue!
Hampton Manor, Peel’s Restaurant, https://hamptonmanor.com/
Situated in Belgravia, on Halkin Arcade off Motcombe Street, Amaya opened to critical acclaim in 2004, receiving and retaining a Michelin star since 2006, and taking its dining concept and inspiration from an age old approach to Indian Fine Dining: Stated on the inside cover of the menu, as the penchant for traditional Indian gourmets to graze through a selection of grilled delicacies before a grandstand finish of a special curry and a rich biryani.
On this midweek visit, Camellia Panjabi proved a most charming, knowledgeable and generous host to our group. Having had the pleasure of meeting Camellia on several occasions I was once again wowed as she shared her undimmed passion for the industry with a vim and vigour that belied any jet lag that she may have felt from her arrival earlier that week from Mumbai – working through a full daily itinerary, Camellia’s mixture of genuine warmth and dynamism proved infectious. Along with her sister Namita and brother-in-law Ranjit Mathrani, they have built a collection of highly successful Indian restaurants across London (See Profile).
In the past few months, over mid-week evening meals, I have sampled both Amaya and the equally impressive sister restaurant Chutney Mary. While the cooking and food offerings at each of these two restaurants represent a different focus – Chutney Mary provides a range of progressive Indian dishes mixed with some classics, whereas Amaya is broadly speaking ‘grill led’ – the two share a few things in common: An appreciation of what it takes to deliver a decor, ambience and atmosphere that strikes a chord with those that enjoy a lively evening buzz in a happy social (almost club like) dining environment. The mixture of dark wood, black granite and clever offset mood lighting amid splashes of colour encourages a first thought of young(ish) well-heeled professionals with some considerable disposable income. Then there is a second hit on this first impression which is a kind of ethereal sense of well being that might draw in the diner of any demographic and from a scan of each room, both the former and latter hold true.
I would imagine a glance at the reservations databases of these restaurants would demonstrate that the customer profile has some significant cross fertilisation, particularly in the evenings. A further element these two eateries share in common is the importance of high quality service, particularly for first time diners. Why? The menus are broad and it is important as a customer to be educated by the service on how to navigate the menu to best enjoy the food on offer.
As an example, Amaya has an impressive open kitchen (above) with a salad section, tandoor (clay oven), sigri (charcoal grill) and tawa (griddle) which facilitate a rather broad menu of three different tasting choices, a few curries, bread and rice. However, the main focus is found across a selection of over 30 Salad, Seafood, Poultry and Meat dishes that are divided up by ‘first to arrive’, ‘mid-arrivals’, ‘later arrivals’ and curries. At first glance it is possible to feel a little overwhelmed, however, the levels of service provided by the waiting staff shine through and would appear shared across the group, reflecting the owners passion to inform, encourage and enjoy the most balanced selections of Indian fine dining.
Camellia explained on the tour of the open kitchen that Amaya take 90% of supplies daily reflecting the deliberately limited storage space in the kitchen. Salads are prepared at time of order, all grills are cooked and served immediately and there is no compromise on quality – Grass fed Welsh lamb, Normandy duck and Madagascan giant prawns. On top on this, the quality of spicing is seen as critical to success in the flavours of the prepared house specialities. The spices are acquired during their peak time within the spice harvest in India to ensure the best of the crop! So for example, the Kashmiri chilli grown near Hubli is harvested from 14 January onwards – the best of the crop sells out within a week! Reshampati chillies are harvested in the middle of March whereas cumin and coriander in early April.
So as well as optimising provenance of ingredients and spices, the cooking techniques to produce taste, texture and temperature are fundamental. Dishes have their own marinades, cooking oils and chutneys are made fresh and in-house. Outside of the centrepiece grazing dishes are the three curries and two biryanis that change each month. The kitchen operates brigade of around 15 chefs with a flattish organisation structure. In addition, there is at least twenty front of house staff.
A sample of dishes follow. The minced chicken lettuce parcels delivered on crisp freshness with a burst of Asian herbs and spices.
Black Pepper Chicken Tikka maintained a delicate texture which was lifted by a rich pepper marinade that defied any dryness that would have become evident in the slightest of overcooking. This proved a happy feature which purveyed throughout the meal. Indeed Venison Seekh Kebabs retained a moisture and tenderness that again defied any mistimings that might be evident in lesser kitchens.
A fine seafood platter made up of Tandoori Ocean Wild Prawns (Madagascan) perfectly timed to retain moisture and texture of the delicate shellfish and complemented by lightly spiced tomato and ginger marinade. King Scallops, diver caught, seared with appropriately delicate seasoning which worked with the natural sweetness of the flesh and enhanced rather than overwhelmed by a gentle herby sauce. Finally, Rock Oysters, flash grilled with a coconut and ginger sauce offered an unusual but appealing taste that lingered on the palate for a good 10 seconds.
Amaya is proud of their selections of vegetable dishes that for ‘first to arrive’ include Tandoori Organic Paneer Tikka, Goats Cheese and Yogurt Kebabs, small peppers with ginger, soft cheese and cashew nut. Shakarkhand Chaat which is a griddled Indian white sweet potato. ‘Mid Arrivals’ for vegetables include Tandoori Broccoli (below) with a ginger infused yoghurt, griddled portobello mushrooms or Spinach Fig Tikki.
The selection of curries enjoyed such as a Nimbu Gosht – best described as a lamb Osso-Bucco, which by definition is slow cooked in light spices to fall off the bone from tenderness, the dish served with fresh lime to cut the richness and caramelised onions that added sweetness. Other delights included a prawn Biryani, a Badami Chicken Curry or a Kerala Prawn Curry. Bread and rice finish the feast of savoury dishes.
A trio of signature desserts, each of which may be served with a specially selected sweet wine. A chocolate Rasmalai, Saffron and Cardamom Pannacotta and Strawberry Malai Kulfi proved a satisfying and sweet conclusion to the meal.
London consumers have become increasingly discerning in all they consider, due partly perhaps to the breadth of information available via web content and social media, something which naturally encourages people to become more adventurous in their tastes. Indeed all aspects of established, emerging and new cuisines are affected by what appears to be a continuous search for expression, authenticity and individuality.
In fact, the speed of this observed change is witnessed simply in the tea and coffee menus at Amaya which read like the kind of sophisticated notes once reserved for 1855 classification Grand Cru Classe wines. Consider Balseri Gold 2nd Flush Assam – 2016 rich, sweet, malty and full bodied tea typical of Assam or a Wonder Classic Darjeeling, 1st Flush Gopaldhara Gardens – 2017 tropical fruit notes, papaya, mango with sweet white florals.
Where once coffee was black or white before Espresso, Cappuccino and Latte were imported into restaurant fayre so now it is Indian Monsoon Blend which is fragrant and smokey with dark caramel overtones which is blended with the exclusive Indian cherry parchment coffee. This is not intended to be critical but instead to highlight the need for restaurants to deliver this detail on quality, that is now ‘par for the course’ where informed customers are concerned!
As well as feeding the local clientele, clearly Amaya is a destination restaurant, patronage of the restaurant is strong all round because the offering is strong all round – forever evolving to meet the changing demands of the market, ably watched over by Camellia Panjabi, whose wisdom reflects her years but whose dynamism, focus and passion retain a perennially youthful outlook and insight. Long may they continue!
Eat Sleep And Drink Wine. One may consider such a concept a perfect life motto! A brief google search confirms that these very words are used to describe the luxury home away from home, that is The Vineyard Hotel near Newbury. Indeed the Relais & Chateaux and Pride of Britain hotel and spa boasts five red stars, a 3 AA Rosette Restaurant and an extraordinary 30,000 bottle wine cellar.
Originally owned in the nineteenth century by the Hartley family as their hunting lodge, where the Hartley’s were rather grandly known as ‘Lords of the Manor of Stanford Dingley. The property changed hands many times before the 1980s, which saw the building developed as a small hotel. During this period significant additions were made to the address, such as the conservatory, function rooms and a wing of guest rooms. Sir Peter Michael took full control of what was then named Foley Lodge in 1996. In May 1998 the fully refurbished property was opened as The Vineyard with, at that time, the concept coined of ‘a restaurant with rooms’.
A prolifically successful and astute entrepreneur, Sir Peter Michael backed and/or ran a range of market leading high-tech companies from Cosworth Engineering to Quantel (digital special effects for movies). Sir Peter was knighted in 1989 in recognition of services to British industry. In 1992, Sir Peter founded Classic FM, the UK’s first national commercial radio station with an audience of 6 million listeners.
Sir Peter’s original education and interest in wine came from Bordeaux and Burgundy where he was guided by his father, however, it was at the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco, where the inspiration for the Peter Michael Winery was born. Legend has it that Sir Peter was enjoying a glass of chardonnay with some colleagues while watching a Peggy Lee concert. The wine that Sir Peter and his colleagues shared later won at the ‘Judgment of Paris’, was like nothing he had ever tasted before. The experience not only shifted his European point of view about great wine, but it ignited a passion in him to create terroir-driven wines of unsurpassed quality, as rich and singular as the California land itself.
A painting commissioned by artist Gary Myatt depicts the aftermath of the “Judgement of Paris” which was a blind-tasting arranged by wine merchant Steven Spurrier in 1976. The leading French wine aficionados of the day favoured Californian wine over the best of France. The floor to ceiling artwork, entitled After the Upset, can be found in The Vineyard’s California Bar, just past the vault. Despite not attending the event, Sir Peter Michael is seen witnessing the aftermath, standing to the far left of the table wearing his trademark white Panama hat.
The Vineyard’s emblem is the Californian poppy, native to the Peter Michael Winery estates in Sonoma Valley. Over its twenty-year journey, The Vineyard has undergone a significant transformation to a luxury hotel destination from a restaurant with rooms. Corporate and private custom is catered to in equal measures: For a pampering weekend break, in 2008 the Spa was completely refurbished to feature a gently heated circular pool with swan massage jets, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and relaxation area around the pool, as well as a comprehensive list of specialist treatments. In 2003 a new extension was built, providing 18 new rooms plus conference facilities for business’.
In 2013, the reception area was totally refurbished and the trademark glass wine vault was built to showcase the impressive wine collection to guests the moment they enter the hotel. Today, the hotel boasts 49 beautifully appointed bedrooms. The common themes throughout the Michael family tenure, in amongst the gamut of pampered luxury, has been the constant of the highest quality food and the wine. Since its inception, The Good Food Guide, AA Restaurant Guide and Michelin Guides have smiled on the property. Today, Robby Jenks, formerly of two Michelin starred Gidleigh Park (under Michael Caines) and Whatley Manor (under Martin Burge) aspires to join some of his predecessors who have enjoyed Michelin recognition. See Review of Robby Jenks Food Here.
To celebrate their 20 years and the associated rich heritage in food and wine, The Vineyard is delivering a festival for seven days at the end of June 2018 called ‘Back to the Vine’ where seven chefs return to their former employer to showcase and celebrate their work in tandem with The Vineyard.
Shay Cooper, Nathan Outlaw, Matt Gillan, Richard Davies, John Campbell, Daniel Galmiche and Billy Reid are the line up of chefs who will each deliver a service from June 25th, 2018 to July 1st, 2018. To enquire about tickets for the Back to the Vine week, see details here:-
Overall, The Vineyard is an impressive destination hotel in Berkshire, rightly part of any route de bonheur created by a Relais & Chateaux enthusiast as well as a member of the Pride of Britain family. A modern feel but with traditional roots – Bedrooms are named after great wines and that wine meets food, meets luxury feel runs right through the property. The levels of service are impeccable which in turn matches the food, wine and art on display. Sir Peter Michael and family can rightly be proud of one of the jewels in their crown, the gem that is The Vineyard nr Newbury.
This article is the fourth in a series designed not to provide ‘A N Other’ opinion about a chef’s output, to be lost in the now sea of increasing ‘noise’ about top end dining. This is something slightly different. In this article the chef will analyse each of their dishes sampled against the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a Michelin star. How so? Discerning foodies will recall that at The Michelin Guide GB&I launch event for the 2018 Guides, a slide was briefly discussed by Michael Ellis (WW Director of Michelin Guides), which for the first time highlighted the five criteria followed by inspectors in the awarding of Michelin Stars. Michael Ellis confirmed these under interview on that day, as a reminder he explained:-
“The first and most important criteria is the ingredients, all great cuisine starts with great product – the actual product itself is considered for freshness, quality, flavour and texture and so on. The second criteria is mastery of cooking technique. The third criteria is equilibrium and harmony in flavours; the plate must be in balance, so the sauce is not, for example, overpowering the flavour of the fish or that the seasoning of the dish is found to be exactly as it should be. The fourth criteria is regularity (or consistency) and this means starter, main and dessert are all of the appropriate standard and that each are also consistent over time. Finally, value for money is the fifth criteria.”
After a progressive spell in kitchens of increasing merit, Robby Jenks found himself working 16-18 hour days for three and half years in Michael Caines kitchen at Gidleigh Park, a dedication which enabled him to progress through the sections. After time under chef Martin Burge at Whatley Manor, Robby returned to Gidleigh as senior sous chef for a further two years. A Head chef position at Amberley Castle beckoned followed by arriving at The Vineyard near Newbury around the turn of 2016. Robby is now firmly established in the kitchen and seeking that elusive Michelin star to reward the restaurant’s (he and his team’s) consistent creative efforts in their own right.
The dishes to be analysed by the chef are each of four house signatures – the salmon, the shellfish raviolo, the foie gras and the cod.
Loch Duart Salmon is farmed in Scotland, which I first started using at Gidleigh Park, when the wild comes in to season we use that quality. Salmon, dill, cucumber, wasabi are naturally a good combination. The heat from the wasabi in the cold form of an ice cream is fresh and interesting and a different take on enhancing and bringing these elements together while using a temperature contrast.
The Salmon is cured for eight hours then rolled into a ballotine, wrapped in cling film whole, then heated in a water bath (sous vide) at forty degrees for just ten minutes to break down the proteins. This gentle process enhances the texture, giving it a buttery, melt in the mouth sensation. The outside of the Salmon is blowtorched to give some smoky, charcoal flavours, then a tiny bit of sea salt added. Overall the final texture is exactly what we desire and that for me is a crucial factor in a successful salmon dish of this style.
In terms of consistency, the kitchen will seek to minimize downside risk of inconsistency. What does that mean? Well if I cure something as preparation in the morning the opportunity for consistency is very high, whereas if I ask one of the team (or even I personally) to season something to order during service, then the downside risk of inconsistency is naturally that much higher. So the result of that, as a mantra, is that preparation time in the mornings is fundamental to ensure the precise elements required in any given service are executed in exactly the right way. So we tell any new chef that 8.30am to 11.30am each morning is the most intense time in the kitchen, work hard during those hours then we have the smoothest running, efficient and effective kitchen during service, which is (most importantly) at the closest point of delivery to the end customer.
In terms of documenting practices, procedures and methods I have a collection of databases. This is as much a reflection of my enthusiasm and passion for my craft, as it is a way of running my kitchen (smiling). I have a large collection of recipes and methods from various sources. We will create new recipes leaning upon previous experiences and the associated education, however, every recipe (and every dish) is created from scratch, trusting our creative mind-set and experiences to build a unique dish.
I do document the final recipe of a created and developed dish but the way I get to that recipe is instinctive and comes naturally, partly through past experience and partly through a natural thought process. So at the start of the Salmon dish, I wanted to do a cure so I’d weigh out a kilo of salt, a quantity of sugar and so on. Whatever was actually used in preparing the fish by hand and eye would equate to a first natural step, we’d taste it and see whether more or less seasoning was required or more or less time sous vide, until we reached the perfect end product. At that point the recipe is documented and ready to go on the menu.
When you write down what I say about the final dish it sounds quite a black and white science whereas originally reaching the method, process and practice (recipe) is instinctive to the kitchen team. From a fish cookery perspective, the Salmon from Loch Duart is a good example as the size of fish is so consistent over the years that little variance in cooking timings is ever required, again lowest downside risk of inconsistency to customers for the final dish on a plate.
The shellfish raviolo has become a key signature of the house. I’ve always loved a good bisque and every Michelin two star kitchen I’ve worked in made a great bisque (such as Gidleigh, Whatley Manor). Personally, I prefer a sweeter compared to a more bitter style, so to achieve that we use langoustine bones. The mousse inside the raviolo is a combination of langoustine, scallops and a little crab. Scallops, a little cream and egg are blended, langoustines chopped after blanching, we pick out crab meat – mix these together with lemon and chopped basil and we can prepare that in batch for say a week.
The key is the bisque, were crab the majority meat then it would be a crab bisque which I move away from for a couple of reasons – I prefer the flavour of the langoustine based bisque. In addition, the extent of those micro-bones in crab are hard to extract for the dish to be just right which again refers back to the consistency mantra.
The foie gras dish, we chose grapes to work with the dish as they have the sweetness but also through lightly pickling, a little tartness to cut the richness and balance the dish. Hazlenut and pain d’espice add flavours and texture contrasts. There’s sweet and sour and some spice in the sauce.
Foie gras has got better and better and we’ve worked hard to source the best product. I’ve had a relationship with the supplier for seven or eight years. Ben, who I’ve known since my Gidleigh days and his Oakleaf days, sources directly from Rungis Market. His vegetables are excellent as well and with both these and the Rougie foie gras, my experience tells me we are sourcing some of the best consistent product the market has to offer.
For the cod dish, the fish is sourced from Brixham via a long standing supplier (Johnny) from Flying Fish. You have to be so careful with fish in the UK as the standard varies from excellent to terrible and everything in between, building the relationships with the right suppliers is essential with fish dishes. I do know this company covers a wide spectrum of Michelin starred restaurants up and down the country.
The cod is lightly salted to tighten it up before rolling it and putting in the fridge for six to eight hours, if we didn’t salt the likelihood would be of the flakey fish falling apart in the pan. So the preparation in the morning will mean it is ready for dinner service that day. The cauliflower is served in serveral different ways – roasted, raw, shaved, pickled and pureed in a light curry sauce for depth of flavour and raisons for sweetness and richness.
Overall, The Vineyard offers a form of new classical restaurant with food engineered and produced in a thoughtful, intelligent (but instinctive) manner to deliver the highest quality ingredients with a depth of flavour. Dishes exhibit first class provenance with some interesting modern twists on balance and harmony, demonstrating progressive classical thinking. Meticulous attention to consistency through accurate preparation ensures a customer is very rarely surprised or disappointed. This process rolls into the nature of the multi-stage cooking processes and techniques which fit within the Michelin scope and spectrum of this article.
A guest will also consider the context of the hotel’s attraction as a wine and food destination with the “Judgement of Paris” central to the diners’ overnight stay experience. More on this in a separate piece to follow in June 2018 but be assured, the food alone is reason enough to visit The Vineyard, and to appreciate the efforts of Robby Jenks and his kitchen team.
On Sunday 1 July 2018, renowned chef Sat Bains, of two Michelin-starred Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham, will join chef Niall Keating, in his Michelin-starred restaurant, The Dining Room, at Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds, to create a spectacular eight-course dinner in aid of Hospitality Action’s ‘Social Sunday’.
Started by Jason Atherton three years ago, ‘Social Sunday’ was created to unite the UK’s restaurant community and help transform the lives of hospitality workers who find themselves in crisis. This year, the concept is being taken nationwide, asking chefs and restaurateurs to join together on one day and support their industry. Other participants include chefs such as Tom Kerridge and Gary Usher.
Niall and Sat will present four courses each that represent their individual styles, as well as showcasing seasonal and local ingredients. Having trained under Sat over five years ago, Niall said of the event: “I am thrilled to be able to cook alongside one of the most influential chefs in my career, and what makes it even more of an honour is that we will be collaborating for such a special charity with Hospitality Action.”
Similarly Sat commented: “While we are absolutely inundated with guest chef requests, we say yes to only a select few, as our focus must always be on the restaurant. However, I could not turn down the opportunity of working alongside Niall once again – an exciting and hugely talented chef, who worked so diligently at Restaurant Sat Bains during his formative years – while also supporting Jason’s brilliant dream of taking Social Sunday nationally.”
He added: “My Head Chef John Freeman and I are really excited about the prospect of cooking at Whatley Manor, where we know we will love being shoulder to shoulder with Niall again and we will have the unique opportunity of working closely with Sue Williams, a hotelier we greatly admire. But, of course, the driving factor for us all is to support the critical work that the team at Hospitality Action does so graciously.”
Mark Lewis, Chief Executive of Hospitality Action, stated: “We are delighted that restaurants up and down the country have got behind Social Sunday this year, ensuring that we can support more people and help transform their lives, and we hope that fabulous collaborations, such as Sat’s and Niall’s, will inspire those working in the industry to take part in Social Sunday as an annual event.”
Tickets are £300 per person and include an eight-course dinner and wine pairing (£220 without wine). Bookings are available via the Whatley Manor Website (www.whatleymanor.com) or by phone, 0166- 682 2888. Bedrooms are also available to guests who wish to stay, from £199 per night.
Whatley Manor address: Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0RB
Kavan Wood (above left) is concierge ‘plus plus’ to the guests for the Treehouses at Chewton Glen, more on what ‘plus plus’ means shortly. Kavan started at Chewton and in this role in August 2017 having previously worked in other establishments, across every department of the hotel trade; Kavan’s background started as a KP (kitchen porter), before subsequently spending a year and half as a chef, then working in housekeeping, followed by restaurant front of house work, then bar work, time as a porter, then working receptions, then reception management and finally duty management. Indeed, Kavan has the benefit of an operational overview and the know-how to deliver for customers with maximum efficiency and effectiveness for his employer.
So upon arriving last summer, Kavan could see and respect the enormous difference between delivering service to guests at the three, four and now five red star hotel level “Chewton Glen have the best of resources for their staff; to care for- and nurture them to deliver the best customer experiences” and Kavan feels passionately in tune with the array of values of Chewton Glen. The grounding he has had serves him well in understanding the stature of his position and delivering the gamut of responsibilities that are associated with his role.
The Treehouses (click on the image above to go to Chewton website ‘Treehouse Stay’ page that will display this image with drill downs to details on each type of offering) were built in 2012 and have proven a remarkably popular addition to Chewton Glen. The final part of the jigsaw thus far – The Yews’ – was completed late last year. Overall with supply and demand, demand far outstrips supply and due to this customers are advised to book at the soonest opportunity. The structural terminology for the Treehouses is ‘pods’ – There are seven pods in total, six of which offer two large sellable accommodation units, the seventh and latest, is currently generally sold as one offering.
The way the pods are structured and designed results in different types of accommodation and associated per night pricing – in increasing size and value – There are two pods which create four studio suites, three pods which produce six ‘loft suites’ then there is a pod dedicated to two ‘hideaway’ suites and the one ‘The Yews’ pod offered as a single set of suites.
The loft suites have a living area with a master bedroom and literally upstairs (in the loft) of the Suites is a bedroom, this bedroom contains two single beds, bean bags, board games, play station, DVDs and TV. The set up works perfectly as a kind of a little den for the children of the family. This can be adapted so that the accommodation may suit other arrangements such as one additional adult or older teenager staying upstairs.
The fixtures and fittings have seen significant investment and they speak for the detail shown in the highest finish in quality – see loft suite example image above – from the sound system to the coffee machine, from the iPad guest management system to the beautiful hot tubs. This indeed reflects well on the stand out quality of the whole of Chewton Glen.
The Studio has the same footprint size as the loft suite except there’s no upstairs loft, there’s also no partition between bedroom and lounge area, which creates an open plan feel.
The Hideaway Suites are top end, which although they are mainly used for couples, there are pull out usable beds for children and in that regard they have experienced a mixture of occupancies. The lounge and bedroom are separated by a glass walkway of about a dozen yards, the lounge enjoys a main balcony with a smaller balcony off the bedroom, and every balcony has a hot tub. The facilities are otherwise similarly lavish and top end. The image below is of a Hideaway Suite.
The main difference between the Yew Trees and the rest is operational – sure in terms of sheer size, the suites represent a completely different category of offering; there are two master bedrooms, two loft bedrooms, separate lounge, open lounge, dual balcony, shower rooms and private kitchen. The image below is of the dual suites that make up The Yews’ Treehouse offering.
The operational differences come via the previously referred to concierge ‘plus plus’ offering. For example, a family may want their own bowl food meal served in The Yews’ for dinner, a private chef (provided by Chewton Glen) will come and prepare food in the private kitchen of The Yews’. In this event, Kavan would effectively provide a butler cum maître d’ service, presenting the food and assisting the family with all aspects of dining service. In a similar way, Kavan might be requested to set up a full continental breakfast in the main lounge area for the morning.
Kavan’s office is right outside The Yews’ (which is a smart looking facility in itself), so he is literally two minutes away from any Treehouse when the guest dials 0. So on top of the usual elements you might expect of a concierge such as local knowledge, external reservations and hotel services bookings, Kavan will handle pretty much everything from check-in to check-out (including those very two things from his office) and all things in between. In addition with being always nearby and visible, Kavan naturally becomes the friendly (and extremely able) face of Chewton Glen for the duration of your stay.
This extraordinary level of service is part of the concept of this premium accommodation, whereby a guest might want to disappear in a home from home atmosphere and where the operational structure is such that “the private concierge” can see to their needs without them having to leave The Yews’ for a number of days. They are seen as the ultimate private getaway or hideaway and customers like it that way. Naturally, there remains for those that wish to indulge in the myriad of activities, facilities and dining options provided across the luxury hotel, these are all but a mere call to Kavan and a two minute chauffeured buggy ride away.
Overall, Chewton Glen (click on image to visit website at this page) is an extraordinary and dynamic five red star institution. The word ‘institution’ used here would typically conjure ‘traditional’ or even ‘old fashioned.’ In fact the opposite is true, the spirit of those at the top almost mixes evolution with revolution. The accommodation is extraordinary and the service levels match the expectation of the owners and executives to those of their guests, in addition, the staff appear sincerely happy, motivated and content. In essence, a wonderful part of the make-up of great British hotel accommodation, service and hospitality – the Chewton Glen offering is one which all seasoned travellers may covet and once visited feel rightly proud to have done so.
Press Release Courtesy of The Roux Scholarship Feb 2018
Alain Roux and Michel Roux Jr have revealed the regional finalists for the 2018 Roux Scholarship competition. These 18 chefs were selected from their paper application and written recipe.
The 18 finalists will compete in two regional finals which will be held simultaneously on
Thursday 8th March 2018 at University College Birmingham and University of West London, Ealing.
Aaron Lawrence, Gilpin Lodge, Cumbria
Samuel Nash, L’Enclume, Cumbria
Daniel Parker, House of Tides, Newcastle
Ryan Porter, Northcote, Lancashire
Kelvin Tan, Sat Bains, Nottingham
Ricki Weston, Sat Bains, Nottingham
Judges: Alain Roux, Brian Turner, James Martin, André Garrett (2002 scholar), Simon Hulstone (2003 scholar).
Greg Anderson, Morston Hall, Norfolk
Sven-Hanson Britt, Miele GB, Oxfordshire
Martin Carabott, 85 Piccadilly, London
Ben Champkin, L’Enclume, Cumbria
Michael Cruickshank, Bohemia, Jersey
Richard Giles, Sorrel, Surrey
Kamil Jedrzejewski, Hilton, York
Daniel Lines, Restaurant Associates (KPMG), London
Oliver Marlow, Roganic, London
Karl O’Dell, Petrus, London
Drew Snaith, Mare Street Market, London
Fergus Wilford, Cliveden House, Berkshire
Judges: Michel Roux Jr, Sat Bains (1999 scholar) Andrew Fairlie (Head Scholar, 1984), Angela Hartnett, Rachel Humphrey, Clare Smyth.
This year’s challenge was to create a recipe to serve four people using two whole gilthead sea bream (Daurade Royale), weighing anywhere between 600g-800g each (maximum 1kg) and one variety of mollusc of your liking (shellfish with a hard, non-edible shell); together served plated with two ‘simple’ or
‘composed’ garnishes/accompaniments. One must include green globe artichokes and the other to be a garnish of your choice. One of these can be served separately if preferred. A sauce must accompany the dish. For the regional final, competitors will have 2½ hrs to cook their dish, along with a dessert from a mystery box of ingredients given to them on the day. The judges will be looking for recipes and methods, which demonstrate the best balance of creativity, taste, style and practicality in the finished dish.
For more information: www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
Michel Roux Jr: “Some of the recipes were absolutely amazing but unfortunately some of the costings were really not up to scratch. Young chefs have to understand that the costings are very important and business acumen is something that chefs have to learn. No female entrants made it through to the cook-off stage, which is sad, but we will keep on pushing that and with our new judges Clare, Rachel and Angela we hope to inspire more female chefs to apply next year.”
Alain Roux: “There was a lot of thought and imagination in the recipes and the chefs brought their personality into the dishes. When it comes to cooking the recipes at the regional finals, some will find the time frame a bit challenging, bearing mind that they’ll also have a dessert to create.”
Angela Hartnett: “It’s a huge privilege to be back judging the Roux Scholarship. There was one entry from a female chef, and sadly she didn’t get through to the regional finals. It probably is a fair representation of the industry, given how many more men there are than women in the industry.”
Clare Smyth [new judge this year]: “It’s such a high level of entries and it’s great to get the other judges’ point of view on things. I’ve always watched the Roux Scholarship and I’ve worked with last year’s winner Luke Selby and Ian Scaramuzza (2015). The chef who wins the scholarship will be a big name in the future.”
Brian Turner: “It is really gratifying to see how word has spread of the Roux Scholarship and to see all the wonderful people working outside London qualify for the regional finals. From a personal point of view, I’m glad to see so many from the North of England, especially one from Yorkshire!”
James Martin: It’s interesting that when you’re judging it blind, and you don’t know who they are or where they work, that the marks for our top seven entrants are consistently good. When the names and where they work is revealed afterwards, you see what a cross-section you have. You get the usual ones who come through, but then you get new people, like the Hilton Hotel in York. It’s a great cross-section of the country, too, from Newcastle all the way down to Jersey”
Six winners selected from across the two regional finals will go through to the national final, which takes place at Westminster Kingsway College, London. The 35th Roux Scholar will be announced at a prestigious award ceremony at The Langham, London, that same evening.
The Roux Scholarship is sponsored by Aubrey Allen, The Balvenie, Bridor, Cactus TV, The Caterer, Direct Seafoods, Global Knives, Hildon Natural Mineral Water, The Langham London, Champagne Laurent-Perrier, L’Unico Caffe Musetti, Mash Purveyors Ltd, Oritain, Qatar Airways, TRUEfoods, and Udale Speciality Foods Ltd. For more details about sponsors visit www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
courtesy of Network London February 2018.
Corinthia Hotel London has announced that the renowned British Michelin-starred Chef Tom Kerridge will open a new restaurant at the hotel later this year, his first in the capital.
The restaurant will be a relaxed British brasserie-style dining room, bringing an all-day buzzy new addition to the area, reflecting Tom’s consummate culinary talent. The restaurant will be located on the site that is currently Massimo Restaurant & Bar, on the ground floor of the hotel, with a separate direct entrance off Northumberland Avenue, and a new and updated interior design by David Collins Studio.
Tom’s contemporary approach to traditional hospitality will lend itself seamlessly to the elegant five-star Corinthia Hotel London. He has a phenomenal reputation for accomplished, informal dining, as well as several engaging TV series and successful cookery books.
Commenting on the announcement, Thomas Kochs, Managing Director of Corinthia Hotel London, stated: “It is important to us, Corinthia Hotel London, to be an integral part of the city, and for our guests from London and internationally to experience true British hospitality. When we met Tom, we knew he was the perfect partner to open a restaurant together. We admire his approach to food, restaurants and his spirit of hospitality. I am confident that together we will create an incredible dining experience.”
Tom Kerridge added: “We are incredibly excited about this opportunity to bring a bit of what we are doing in Marlow to London. Corinthia Hotel London is one of London’s most prestigious hotels, and we are looking forward to doing what we do best – quality British cooking that is modern and exciting. We will be taking inspiration from our Michelin-starred pub The Coach, and The Butcher’s Tap, as well as our first venture, the two Michelin-starred The Hand and Flowers.”
Further information about the new restaurant will be available from spring 2018.
Since opening The Hand and Flowers in partnership with Greene King in 2005, Tom Kerridge’s career path has progressed and grown. In 2011, The Hand and Flowers was the first pub to receive two stars in the Michelin Guide, an accolade that is still held today. In 2014, The Coach opened, and received a Michelin star in 2017. Tom has also recently been awarded the coveted “Catey Chef Award 2017”.
Tom has appeared on many television programmes including: Great British Food Revival, Tom Kerridge’s Proper Pub Food, Tom Kerridge’s Best Ever Dishes, hosting Saturday Kitchen, hosting Spring Kitchen, and also the front for BBC’s Food and Drink. More recently he was the chef presenter on BBC Two’s Food Detectives, and the lead presenter of the first series of Bake Off: Crème de la Crème. Tom is also the author of five best-selling cookbooks:
Proper Pub Food, Best Ever Dishes, Tom’s Table, Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet, and his latest, Lose Weight For Good, which was published in December 2017 and is a #1 bestseller.
Tom Kerridge’s Restaurants
The Hand and Flowers – 126 West Street, Marlow SL7 2BP The Coach – 3 West Street, Marlow SL7 2LS
The Butcher’s Tap -15 Spittal Street, Marlow SL7 3HJ
Website – www.tomkerridge.com Twitter & Instagram – @ChefTomKerridge
Housed within a Victorian building, Corinthia Hotel London features 283 rooms, including 51 suites and seven penthouses, offering sweeping views across London’s most popular landmarks. Corinthia London provides unrivalled world-class luxury with superb ground floor restaurant and bar offerings. The hotel is also home to the flagship ESPA Life at Corinthia, a spa housed across four floors, with a hair salon by Daniel Galvin. The hotel boasts the largest room sizes in London, original restored Victorian columns, and tall windows. Cutting-edge technology in rooms and meeting rooms allow for recording, mixing and broadcasting from dedicated media rooms. Corinthia London is the ninth of Corinthia Hotels’ collection of five- star hotels founded by the Pisani family of Malta.
Corinthia Hotel London – Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD Tel – 020-7930 8181; Website
Website – www.corinthia.com/london Twitter & Instagram – @corinthialondon
This full press release is now made available directly by the AA on their website so this will be the last time that fine dining guide reproduce their press material, in future there will be a link provided via social media to the content.
AA ANNOUNCES NEW MULTI ROSETTE AWARDS. January 22 00.01 2018
UK restaurants awarded with the highest recognition of culinary excellence
The AA has been awarding Rosettes to restaurants since 1956, with the top award of five rosettes being introduced in 1991. The multi rosettes are awarded bi-annually in January and September, with success being determined by one or more visits by an AA inspector to an hotel or restaurant.
Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms in Ormskirk, Lancashire has been awarded four AA Rosettes, only four months after achieving their third Rosette in September 2017. They are the only restaurant to be awarded this accolade in January’s set of honours.
Stephen Wilkinson, Area Manager at AA Hotel & Hospitality Services said “Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms has achieved so much in a short space of time. This would not have been possible without the careful planning prior to opening. Mark’s food continues to evolve but the focus has always been on balance and clarity of flavour whilst sourcing the best core ingredients. The team has an impressive kitchen garden which is a key resource for many dishes”.
Eight restaurants have also been awarded three AA Rosettes, including MasterChef: The Professionals judge Monica Galetti and her husband David’s London restaurant, Mere. Restaurants awarded three AA Rosettes are all outstanding restaurants achieving standards that demand national recognition well beyond their local area. Those achieving four AA Rosettes are among the top restaurants in the country. To achieve five AA Rosettes, the restaurants have to reach the pinnacle of the nation’s restaurants where the cooking compares with the best in the world. These restaurants exhibit breathtaking culinary skills, and set the standards to which others aspire, yet few achieve.
Simon Numphud, Managing Director at AA Hotel & Hospitality Services said “We are delighted to recognise these hotels and restaurants for achieving such high standards of culinary excellence which continue to demonstrate the growing strength and depth of British cooking across the country. Our congratulations go to all the dedicated teams within these businesses that have truly earned this level of recognition.
New four AA Rosettes:
Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms, Ormskirk, Lancashire
New three AA Rosettes:
Benedicts, Norwich, Norfolk
The Burlington Restaurant, Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire
Carters of Moseley, Birmingham, West Midlands
Jöro Restaurant, Sheffield, South Yorkshire
Mere, London
1851 Restaurant at Peckforton Castle, Peckforton, Cheshire
Samuel’s at Swinton Park, Masham, North Yorkshire
Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa, Malmesbury, Wiltshire
For press enquiries please contact hannah.grimmette@midaspr.co.uk
or call Midas PR on 0207 361 7860
About the restaurants:
Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms Ormskirk, Lancashire
Imaginative cooking in a boutique bolthole
The ‘restaurant with rooms’ concept at Moor Hall is rather more evolved than the usual traditional approach consisting of a few modest rooms bolted onto a notable eatery. The seven rooms here – as plush as anyone could reasonably ask for – form part of a megabucks boutique transformation of a 16th-century manor into a foodie destination. It comprises a chic restaurant and state-of-the-art open kitchen in a modernist extension, with a soaring raftered roof and glass walls. With all this investment, the culinary draw has to be a biggie, so rest assured that the show stopping cooking of Mark Birchall, whose time at Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume means you will not be disappointed. Expect virtuoso creations built on ingredients that couldn’t be bettered. The drill at dinner is five- and eight-course tasters, opening with home-grown carrots served in multifarious textures with ramsons and sea buckthorn cream, all turbocharged with
Doddington cheese ‘snow’. Next up, crab and turnip broth comes with anise leaves, hyssop and sunflower seed cream. Elsewhere, poached turbot is pointed up with garlic and mussel cream, salsify and sea vegetables, while Westmorland chicken is showcased in another complex workout: the roasted oysters, breast and crispy skin alongside hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, crispy kale, and an offal ragout. Desserts, too, are shot through with creativity: a riff on gingerbread delivers a masterful ice cream with candied parsnips and brown sugar tuiles, and a filo basket of mead-flavoured cream matched with caramelised Bramley apple, sour apple purée and marigold leaves. There’s also a more casual dining venue in a rustic-chic barn.
Benedicts Norwich, Norfolk
Revelatory cooking in the heart of Norwich
Norwich is now firmly established on the UK’s foodie firmament thanks to Benedicts, a switched-on operation where pared-back, Scandi-chic looks tick all the boxes of a big-city venue and make a suitably modernist setting for chef-patron Richard Bainbridge’s innovative contemporary cooking. Devotees of Great British Menu may remember that Bainbridge was the 2015 winner, so diners can be assured of exciting 21st-century food that’s brimful of revelations, courtesy of stimulating combinations of excellent materials.
A starter of moist and super-fresh crisp-skinned mackerel is balanced with bracing bursts of cucumber, sour apple and dill ahead of a main course that sings of spring: hay-baked Blickling Hall Estate hogget matched with spring greens, chervil root and wild garlic. Otherwise, there may be dry-aged Gressingham duck with salted plums, shiitake mushrooms, red onions and thyme sauce. To finish, the nursery comforts of Nanny Bush’s trifle with milk jam passed muster with the exacting standards of the WI ladies on the telly and remains as a signature finisher, or you might go for an equally classic and perfectly rendered lemon tart, its heavenly pastry encasing a zingy lemon custard. It all comes via a seasonal à la carte, six- or eight-course tasting options, or a daily-changing set lunch which offers remarkable value.
The Burlington Restaurant Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire
Seasonal menus in a lovely setting
The Devonshire Arms may sound like a cosy village pub, but is actually a country house hotel set in 30,000 acres of the Duke of Devonshire’s estate, with a swish spa and a restaurant that has put it well and truly on the gastronomic map. The Burlington Restaurant is the star of the show, where chef Paul Leonard delivers food of craft and creativity, making good use of the estate’s excellent produce (dining during the game season is a good idea) and the kitchen garden for herbs, vegetables and fruits. His dishes are colourful, full of presentational artistry and precisely composed flavours, producing a modern classic pairing of langoustine with succulent pork cheek, alongside Alexanders and celeriac purée. Main-course grass-fed Yorkshire beef is as good as it gets, the meat butter-soft and handled with respect, supported by onions and alliums in various guises, all lifted by smoked bone marrow and a sauce of great depth. The final flourish is a trip back to childhood comforts via an exceptionally light, baked egg custard pointed up with cherries and nutmeg. Superlative nibbles and amuses punctuate the whole experience in imaginative style. Simpler dining is available in the Brasserie, with its roughcast white walls and vibrantly coloured furnishings.
Carters of Moseley Birmingham, West Midlands
Modern British food interpreted with simplicity and skill
The unassuming location amid a parade of shops belies this high-flying neighbourhood restaurant’s ambition. Chef Brad Carter’s operation sticks to the contemporary template of calculated neutral décor, the buzz of an open kitchen, and relaxed, on-the-ball staff whose enthusiasm for the food is palpable. The moreish ‘pigs butter’ (whipped Tamworth pork dripping flavoured with caramelized onions) and splendid home-made sourdough are stalwarts to prime the palate, together with a barrage of on-trend ‘snacks’ – chicken liver cereal, Dorset clam with fermented ramsons, house charcuterie, raw kohlrabi with pine and salad burnet – before an array of bang-on-the-money dishes of inventive and clever pairings. Clarity and freshness define it all, from an opener of deeply flavoursome oat, spelt and barley porridge laden with pine mushrooms (foraged from Lapland) boosted by a broth laced with Moliterno al tartufo (truffled cheese), to top-drawer Skrei cod with leek and buttermilk. Elsewhere, meatier influences come into play. Dry-aged Cornish lamb is pointed up with vivid green wheat grass sauce and bone marrow, or there might be red deer with kabocha squash and quince. The imaginative approach continues through to desserts. For example, an unusual eggless ice cream infused with kombu seaweed and black rice, say, or chocolate ganache finished with dried cardamom, orange zest and minty shiso oil.
Jöro Restaurant Sheffield, South Yorkshire
Classy modern cooking in a shipping container
A converted shipping container off a roundabout on the outskirts of Steel City doesn’t sound too inviting a prospect, but Jöro’s urban edginess is bang in tune with the contemporary trend for neo-Nordic-influenced eating. Inside, the space has a minimalist feel with bare wood floors and tables decorated with flowers and baby vegetables, and the buzz of an open kitchen adding to the convivial vibe.
Despite the urban surrounds, the kitchen team maintains a close bond to nature, working with local farms and foragers to provide a steady flow of seasonal materials – a ‘surprise’ box from one vegetable supplier means the kitchen builds the menus around what turns up that week, and the small plate concept encourages diners to try a salvo of different dishes. Expect pin- sharp techniques and combinations that pack a punch, starting with a perfect piece of mackerel in miso-boosted broth alongside kohlrabi pickled in buttermilk whey, intensely sweet and
smoky wood-fired onions, and roasted yeast purée. Salt-baked celeriac Lincolnshire poacher cheese, black truffle and elder capers is another winning partnership, followed by mallard with red cabbage ketchup and blackcurrant jam. The good ideas flow through to a sweet dish uniting brown butter and muscovado parfait with parkin, apple and Pedro Ximenez jam.
Mere London W1
Smart Fitzrovia joint for a master chef’s first solo venture
Monica Galetti (former Michel Roux Jr/Le Gavroche protégé, though better known to TV audiences as a feared MasterChef: The Professionals judge) has opened her own restaurant with husband David (also a former Gavroche alumni [sommelier], like many of the key staff here). Okay, first up, the name; Mere is pronounced ‘Mary’, being both the French for mother and also Monica’s mother’s name. Next, the location – set at the less frenetic northern end of restaurant-jammed Charlotte Street and certainly adding to its profile. It’s classily understated though; an impressive wooden door immediately shouts sophisticated, grown-up restaurant, and inside doesn’t disappoint. On street level, there’s a smart bar with eye-catching champagne-inspired artwork, while downstairs, the design ramps-up in the unexpectedly light dining room, thanks to its double-height glass frontage and wine-box covered outer wall, allowing pavement light to flood down. As in the bar, there’s a fashionable colour palette of cool blues and greys, but accented here by warming golds, and featuring contemporary Samoan pieces by Monica’s artist cousin.
What really shines is the cooking; contemporary French (classically underpinned, of course) yet sprinkled with touches from Monica’s Western Samoan and Kiwi heritage. The expected consummate skill and attention to detail are obvious, though it comes with a light, refined, yet relatively straightforward approach, backed by flavour and panache. Take an opener of springy tender octopus, with a sweet-sharp tomato reduction and caper condiment, finished with parsley oil, or perhaps a star-turn squab pigeon mains (soft pink roasted breast and crispy skinned leg), with peach (adding a balanced sweetness), girolles and Earl Grey. Desserts might continue with signature ‘banana and coconut’ (cream pie with roasted bananas and rum caramel). Service is informed, professional but relaxed, while the wine list is a corker.
1851 Restaurant at Peckforton Castle Peckforton, Cheshire
Fine cooking in a grand hotel
Peckforton may look like a medieval castle, but the clue to its true vintage lies in the restaurant’s name. Built straight out of the imagination of a wealthy Victorian gent, this mightily imposing building, replete with turrets and crenellations, still does justice to the lofty ambition of its originator. It’s 21st-century incarnation as a hotel and wedding venue features pampering treatments, events, luxe bedrooms and a host of outdoor activities on hand.
The 1851 Restaurant has made the hotel a dining destination, too. The slick and stylish dining room matches the modern thinking in the kitchen, with its sparkling glassware and cutlery and a shimmering wall of wine bottles as you enter. Chef Jason Hodnett has a knack for coaxing out the max from flavours – in a starter of hand-dived scallops partnered with shellfish-packed ravioli and roast leek consommé, or in a main course showcasing wood pigeon – the tender roast breast matched with a confit leg bonbon, beetroot in various colours and textures, sweetcorn granola and purée and the tart-balancing note of blueberry. Another virtuoso workout of flavours and textures closes the show – English strawberries playing the lead role in parfait and consommé form, together with milk sorbet, lavender and sweet herbs.
Samuel’s at Swinton Park Masham, North Yorkshire
Dynamic modern cooking in a glorious country estate
With its baronial tower and castellated walls hung with creeper, Swinton Park makes quite an impression. Within, there’s no let-up in its opulent public areas festooned with antiques and family portraits, and millions have been lavished recently on grafting on a glitzy spa. Samuel’s restaurant is the jewel in its culinary crown, a suitably grand space, with its high gilded ceilings, carved fireplace and views onto the 20,000-acre estate.
Chef Mehdi Amiri celebrates the produce from Swinton’s four acres of walled kitchen garden and the local area, serving delicately herby Swinton Farm trout tartare with dill sorbet and cucumber, or there might be goat’s cheese mousse supported by quail’s eggs, beetroot, orange and hazelnut. Ingredients are of the first order and the kitchen’s technical skill is apparent in main courses: perfectly timed and rested venison (from the estate) comes with chestnut, cabbage, squash and blackberries – there’s even a baby onion filled with confit venison – all pointed up with a rich jus, or immaculately handled roast monkfish matched with black trompette mushrooms, truffled cauliflower gratin, dill pasta and cep beurre blanc. Waiting at the end, an exquisitely crafted dessert involving a spherical white and dark chocolate semifreddo with salted caramel, amaretto, and vanilla yoghurt sorbet.
Whatley Manor Hotel Malmesbury, Wiltshire
Luxury spa hotel cooking
A feeling of anticipation builds as the gated entrance opens into Whatley’s cobbled courtyards of honeystone Cotswold buildings – and that’s as it should be, because the Victorian manor house has long sat in the top flight of the UK’s country house hotels. The principal dining room is an understated modern place, with cream walls, bare floors, and a good measure of space around each table. Niall Keating now leads the kitchen team here, and his blend of refined
contemporary cooking with Asian influences has created a new dining experience. Delivered via a 12-course tasting menu, (including a vegetarian version) phenomenal precision and flavours are there from the off, in a spiced cracker pointed with lime and Parmesan, then the purity of raw oyster with seaweed mignonette dressing. Produce is, naturally, as good as you can get,
and flavours and textures come razor sharp – tempura eel with kimchi aigre-doux, or pigeon with kohlrabi, spiced date purée and wood ear mushrooms, while fish puts in an appearance as halibut supported by charred alliums, pear and shrimp. A trio of desserts offers ideas such as apple with caramel, passionfruit and honeycomb, and wine flights of revelationary pairings line up to enhance the whole experience further.
Alex Dower, Director of Food and Restaurants at Harrods Interview, Vision and Practice of The Harrods Taste Revolution. Interview took place at Harrods during November 2017.
The core of the vision for the Taste Revolution is for Harrods to start leading again as a food business. Should you look back into the history of Harrods, the business has always had an innovative, pioneering and leadership role to play and we want to re-emphasise these roles in the present day. For example, Harrods was the first to innovate air cooling for produce; employed chefs to work in the department store kitchens in the 1920s; first to build a chocolate factory in the 1900s; first to start roasting coffee in the 1920s – Starbucks was not formed until the 1970s! So overall very impressive and in comparison you might look at the last 20-30 years and feel that perhaps the store has not had the same impact as at other points in its history, well that’s about to change: The Taste Revolution is about “We are going to lead again!”
We have carefully looked inward and outward to establish the right path – that is tap into our depth of heritage and history as well as what our very diverse and significant customer base demand from a store like Harrods. From the customer perspective, we draw clients from all over the world and the store has naturally done great work to service the international customer. The opportunity here, however, will be satisfying the local customer – the discerning London foodie!
We started as a food business in the 1830s and the store was 50 years selling primarily groceries so our heart is as a food business. A part of our aim through the Taste Revolution is to become the go-to; the destination; the relevant place for local London foodie customers.
How do we achieve this? Well in the current times there are specialist offerings in every category; customers are more knowledgeable, discerning and demanding in their quality needs than ever before and whilst we’ve been strong in certain areas, what we must do is provide credibility and authority in the key areas that are required by our discerning local London customers.
The first hall opening as a launch to The Taste Revolution is The Roastery and Bake Hall, which will feature a number of offerings but with a focus on important categories such as Coffee and Bread.
We will do it in a way that makes us relevant again; particularly through a focus on creating as much as possible in front of the customer! Harrods history is about creativity; for example, we’ve had chefs since the 1890s – currently over 150 chefs and Harrods! – and perhaps hid them away behind closed doors for too long! The importance of bringing out our creative talent in front of the customer is the ultimate provenance so when people can see, touch and taste what is being made it will also serve to build trust and satisfaction in the products.
So putting that into practice, the bakery is going to be a full scratch bakery with true preparation, quality execution and some theatre – every 15-20 minutes a bell will ring whenever something fresh has come out of the oven. There’s an interactive immediacy to the process, you can see what is coming out of the oven and when, all your senses become engaged with freshly baked bread! Wherever you may be around the world, you look at research on the most emotionally engaging product, it is without exception freshly baked bread! It is actually hard to get right and with our accent on highest quality that’s exactly what this new scratch bakery will deliver; we’ve hired a lead master baker, Lance Gardner who will bake 15 types of sourdough loaves per day all day. So in terms of time of day for the shopper it won’t matter they can come they will be able to purchase the best fresh bread.
Note: On the preview evening I sampled the making of a personalised loaf of bread which was a learning and exciting experience which juxtaposed the historical process in the context of a sympathetically restored (to 1925) room with the ultra-modern state-of-the-art equipment of an up to the minute bakery.
In terms of coffee, once again, our customers are incredibly discerning about quality, freshness and provenance. We’re doing a first in a department store in that a rather large, Probat shop roaster (Probatone 25) as a showpiece in the middle of the room! We will roast all our own coffee, which enables the store to do our own bespoke blends, the customer can take fresh bean home, the store can grind it for customers or even pod it for a coffee machine.
In fact, if you can’t wait and you want to consume some coffee there will be an art deco coffee bar next to the roaster where you can consume any of the coffees. Great provenance builds great trust and having the experience of everything created around you is the kind of value-added impact that is sought after by our customers. Consuming between 24 hours and two weeks is optimum for coffee, we have our own blend from four countries which is 100% arabica beans and called Knightsbridge blend – the combination of the quality and freshness sees the notes sing and provide a great experience.
Another example in the first room will be the tea tailoring; tea is a product of great historical importance to the store, with the Taste Revolution we can personalize an experience to produce a bespoke blend for each customer. Tea Tailoring brings a little of the magic back to tea, the customer buys an experience lasting 15 to 20 minutes (for £30) with the tea tailor, the customer will interactively be smelling various infusions that can be blended with tea to produce a bespoke end product which is personally labeled and packaged in beautiful tins and boxes. The chosen blend is then stored on our books and can be purchased at Harrods at any time in the future.
Note: On the preview evening I enjoyed the ‘experience’ of the tea tailor helping me to choose an infusion blend that worked perfectly – Vanilla and Rose petals in the name of Helen Louise Carter which I gifted as a 22nd Wedding Anniversary present
We also have a bar in the Taste Revolution where people can sample fresh coffee by day and try coffee cocktails from late afternoon, evening. We’ve also wanted to combine hospitality with retail, where the shopping experience is interactive, bespoke, educational and many customers can come to a social meeting place where they happen to shop!
Note: Amazing cocktails sampled on the preview evening. Recommend: Espresso Martini!!
The first food hall in Harrods was 1884 and this room has been stripped right back to every painstakingly restored detail to 1925. So for the first transformation in our food offering in over 30 years, we are ensuring we are utterly relevant to the modern local foodie, we are being creative and innovative, we are bringing customer experiences that are interactive in a hospitality meets retail setting and we aim to be utterly consistent in delivering the strongest provenance to our customers. Bread and coffee, providing total sensory engagement will be the anchors of the first room of The Taste Revolution, ably assisted by gourmet grocery, patisserie and the like.
Because we are one store and not able to close everything down at once, we have this first room then the second hall to be refurbished and launched will be the Decadence Room then the third and the fourth and within two years we will have transformed the Harrods food business!
Around eighteen months ago, a dear friend of the family turned 80 and to mark the occasion I wanted to treat him to something he would really appreciate and enjoy. So I asked him what his favourite meal would be, and he said “a proper mixed grill.”
This is not to downplay the merits of a quality mixed grill, on the contrary, I took to the web to search the local Windsor and Maidenhead area for something special. My research led me inexorably to 65 St. Leonards Road, Windsor, not least via the plethora of numbers that bombarded the researcher when googling the restaurant.
As of mid November 2017 a google search showed 53 google reviewers gave an average mark of 4.3/5, 429 reviewers for OpenTable provided an average of 4.6/5 and that familiar stalwart Trip Advisor scored 4.5/5 from 441 reviews. I decided I would like to add my own opinion to this rather impressive sea of data.
The Windsor Grill opened in 2007, a short walk from Windsor Castle (also with ample and convenient on street metred parking), on the site which once housed the Merry Wives of Windsor Pub. This historical tavern was famed in urban legend for linking tunnels to Windsor Castle that served the dual purpose of smuggling the otherwise inappropriate guests in, as well as allowing the monarchs of the day out (when they desired some discretion around their departures.)
Chef/Proprietor David Wilby is a gentle connoisseur, a man of over 35 years pedigree in the restaurant industry across such notable kitchens as The Royal Garden Hotel (Kensington), The Mirabelle (Mayfair) and Menage A Trois (London and New York). David also traveled America developing an interest in grilled and cajun cooking. Indeed it is this breadth and depth of pedigree joined to his unbending passion for his craft, that has led David to source the very best of ingredients and treat them with consistent tender loving care: As David says “you can make poor food from good produce but you can’t make good food out of poor produce.” The results are a premium grill restaurant of impressive quality. David is also a natural wine lover, having invested over time in wine en primeur and stored in bond, the top end of the wine list is a treat for old world wine enthusiasts, even the Robert Parker score is provided for those influenced by the old maestro.
As eighteen months before, I had sat and watched my dining companion devour ‘The Windsor Grill,’ on this occasion I jumped at the chance to try this signature for myself: Rump Steak, Pork Sausage, Lamb’s Kidney, Calf’s Liver, Bacon, Lamb Cutlet, Black Pudding, Chorizo, Pork Belly, Tomato & Mushrooms. For well timed, superior quality ingredients £25 is entirely reasonable, which is a general sentiment on the price points of the menu, backed by a steady flow of both regular private clients and corporate trade, too. The location is just close enough to the centre of town to service the local clientele and just far enough away not become a tourist restaurant. As an independent it is one of the stronger businesses in the Windsor area.
I chose to swap the rump steak for an additional lamb cutlet, a request for change like 18 months before, when my dining companion had chosen to upgrade his beef from Rump to Sirloin (for a small premium). Neither request was too much trouble for the well versed service, who on each visit set the tone for a warm, convivial atmosphere. David pointed out that making his restaurant a pleasant and happy place to work was an ethos that would translate into the dining room being a pleasant and happy place to eat. Indeed front of house and kitchen have been at David’s side for many years and on only one notable occasion has he had to recruit a senior replacement. This mutual loyalty extends to suppliers where David maintains relationships that benefit the output of his kitchen. He claims not to change a produce supplier for the sake of a few percentage points when he knows they will not let him down when he needs their time and energy, it is worth the premium for consistency of quality and the peace of mind that brings.
A further signature of David’s is another meat eaters paradise – Pork “Five Ways” 6’ Hour Slow cooked Pork Belly, Grilled Iberico Black Leg Pork Loin, Sweet Potato & Chorizo Gratin, Bacon Greens, Apple Puree & Crackling. Priced at £22. The almost obligatory side of triple cooked duck fat chips proved crispy on the outside, slightly sweet and melting in the mouth on the inside.
While the emphasis is on meat, in particular an array of quality steaks, there is something for fish lovers too, such as the Fish Mixed Grill – Prawn, Scallop, Squid, & Three Seasonal Fish Pepperonata, Roast Herb & Garlic Dressing priced at £22.
On the starters David turns his hand to Scotch Eggs or for the more adventurous cum traditionalists Devilled Lamb Kidneys on Field Mushrooms or a classic Steak Tartare.
While it may not be a restaurant of choice for a no meat no fish vegetarian, one option did stand out in Aubergine, Courgette & Roast Pepper Parmigiana, Melting Mozzarella, Rocket Salad priced at £13.
The tasting plate of desserts was most generous and in fact defeated me, the most notable being the delicate and not too sweet interpretation of Eton Mess (centre above).
Overall David Wilby and his extended team provide “a family atmosphere” feel to the relaxed and accessible restaurant that has become a regular favourite for locals as well as something of a destination for those spanning all age demographics, particularly those with a taste for a premium grill, and will undoubtedly continue to go from strength to strength. I look forward to returning in the not too distant future.
This infographic is reproduced with kind permission of VoucherCloud. https://www.vouchercloud.com/restaurant-vouchers#the-michelin-star-lunch-guide
Note/ https://moorhall.com/moor-hall/restaurant/ New One Star 2018, 3 courses £35
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