No self respecting foodie could visit Sydney without dining at Quay, Australia’s leading restaurant. It was named this in 2011 when it gained 26th place in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Previously, it had achieved a host of distinctions including the Three Chefs Hats award for nine consecutive years from The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. This publication also named it Restaurant of the Year in 2009 and 2010, the same years as The Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide awarded it the same accolade. To achieve this in two consecutive years is unique amongst Australian restaurants.

Located on the western side of Circular Quay, with views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, the restaurant occupies a site that is the envy of all other Australian restaurateurs, and many foreign ones besides.

As John Fink, co-owner and General Manager was keen to point out, the functional nature of the steel and glass structure, along with the relatively simple but elegant designs of mirrored walls, tiled ceilings, carpets, furniture and fittings allow the magnificence of the surroundings to take centre stage. This is a similar concept to Michel Bras’s Laguiole French countryside restaurant.

At lunchtime, when the restaurant is bathed in brilliant sunshine, the activities around the harbour and busy Circular Quay, with its ferry terminals, railway station, shopping attractions and Opera House, can all be clearly observed. In the evening, when the lighting is dimmed, the stunning nocturnal panorama of glittering harbour city gives a vibrant, celestial feel.

A table in the tower, or the private dining room above, will give the best views of both iconic landmarks – the Harbour Bridge towering on the left and the more distant Opera House on the right. But any seat in this heavily over subscribed 110 cover restaurant will not disappoint. In the main dining room large, well spaced tables line the window with a parallel row raised on a dais, which has comfortable banquette seating and equally good views.

However, the chief glories of Quay are its food and inspirational chef Peter Gilmore. Even in a short conversation one could not fail to be impressed by the passion and dedication shown to his craft. These qualities, tied to his boundless energy, prodigious talent and modest, unassuming nature, have earned him the respect and admiration of his peers. Widely acknowledged as a “Chefs’ Chef,” his ten year leadership has brought well deserved national and international acclaim. At 42 years of age, one might expect a diminution of his creative genius but this is far from being the case. Whilst the essence of his nature based philosophy of food is captured in his first magisterial cookbook, Quay: Food Inspired by Nature, dishes are still being developed in his experimental kitchen, sometimes variations of recipes detailed in his book. Alternatively, new dishes might be trialled as specials on the menu. Either way, an abundance of innovation and exploration, with elements of fun and surprise, is clearly evident.

Peter Gilmore’s cuisine respects and celebrates the bounty of Nature’s gift with its exciting original creations. Purity of taste harmony of ingredients and textural integrity are paramount. A penchant for using baby vegetables and flowers, some of which are rare and obscure, is facilitated by collaboration with Blue Mountains boutique farmer Richard Kalina. This ensures the exceptional quality of seasonal, organic ingredients. Equal care is taken in the provenance of fish, meat and game, with sustainability and high ethical standards being important considerations. The menu acknowledges by name the suppliers of ingredients as diverse as Suffolk lamb, palm hearts and young herbs.

The presentation of dishes avoids extraneous smears or scatterings in favour of a natural, organic simplicity, with clean lines and elegant proportions. In this respect, the influence of Japanese cuisine is evident. A range of cooking techniques embracing modern technology is used to preserve or modify the flavour of ingredients, Happily Peter is not obsessed with sous-vide, appreciating its limitations and preferring sometimes to use temperature controlled poaching.

Fine-Dining-Guide had the pleasure of visiting Quay on a week day lunchtime in August. The eight course tasting menu with matching wines was the best way of sampling the delights of Peter Gilmore’s cutting edge repertoire. The content balance of the menu is carefully judged, so that bread is not offered until the more robust game and meat courses are reached.

An amuse bouche of soft white carrot puree topped with tiny cubes of smoked eel jelly and rye crumbs encapsulated the key features of Peter Gilmore’s cooking: the use of unusual ingredients, a distinct flavour profile, textural contrast and elegant presentation.

The first course was “Sea Pearls.” Inspired by the varying colours of natural pearls, the chef’s signature dish comprised four perfectly shaped iridescent spheres, each containing utterly fresh seafood set in jelly. More than any other dish, itreflects the labour intensity and attention to detail needed in Peter Gilmore’s cooking. Mud crab, enlivened with yuzu and coated with a congee of tapioca had clean, clear flavours. Delicate, sweet scallop was given heat by a horseradish creme fraiche. Tuna sashimi encased a jellied dashi centre, the sweetness of which acted as foil to the rich fish. Finally, a brandade of smoked eel came wrapped in a layer of egg white pearls, achieved through the painstaking method of usingan eye dropper to transfer the strained egg white into grape seed oil at 70 degrees. This provided a delicate taste without the greasiness associated with fish. Overall, “Sea Pearls” was visually beautiful dish, a gastronomic tour de force of conception and execution, and one which it will be impossible to take off the menu! The aromatic crisp, dry young wine, with its peach and floral notes, proved an ideal match for this course. (Wine: 2009 Dona Payterna Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Portugal)

Pearls: Mud Crab - Smoked Eel - Scallop - Tuna

The next course gave full scope to Peter’s love of seasonal, heirloom vegetables. A complex winter salad of pickled rhubarb and cooked endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish and kohlrabi allowed individual tastes to come through. Sheep’s milk curd added a rich but not overpowering dairy element. The salad “dressing” came in two contrasting forms which added flavour and texture: breadcrumbs soaked in pomegranate juice and oven dried for 12 hours, and a syrup of pomegranate molasses. Edible violet flower gave a dramatic flourish to this brilliant composition.

The accompanying young, organic wine had a fruity notes of cherry and raspberry that complimented the dish well.

(Wine: 2011 Harham Winery “Rose Noveau” Hunter Valley)

The second seafood course saw slices of southern rock lobster, expertly poached to preserve its inherent sweetness and succulence. The lobster was also served as a “velvet,” a warm, well flavoured mousseline of smooth consistency. Sandwiched in between this mini tower construction were strips of baby squid “noodles” so delicate they almost melted in the mouth. The crowning glory, tapioca poached in smoked eel broth so as to resemble golden “caviar” not only added a bolder flavour but also injected a playful element to the dish. The vibrant acidity and muted oak of the dry white wine did full justice to this memorable dish. (Wine: 2008 Scorpo “Aubaine” Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula)

The course of coturnix quail breast was memorable as much for its firm but soft texture as its gentle gamey flavour. This result was achieved through initial roasting, then slow cooking sous-vide. Flavoursome accompaniments featured a base of chestnut puree topped with quinola, and walnuts. Sweetened pumpernickel, dried milk skin and truffle gave extra contrasting elements to this earthy composition. The paired red Burgundy, with its dark, concentrated fruits and robust smokiness was a fine match. (Wine: 2010 Thick as Thieves Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges)

Berkshire pig jowl proved a triumph of execution and ingenuity. Steamed in a combi over for 12 hours at 85 degrees, the resulting meat had an unctuous, melting quality. To avoid using the deep layer of skin and fat to make the crackling, a brilliant gastronomic conceit was employed: this was a mock crackling, a crisp, delicate toffee coating of maltose sugar, which did not stick in the mouth but shattered and dissolved on consumption. Prunes marinated in Pedro Ximenes sherry and cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil, added to the warm, complex flavours of the dish. The chosen Reisling provided the necessary sweetness and acidity to complement the pork. (Wine: 2008 Fromm Spatlese Reisling, Marlborough, New Zealand)

A generous portion of Wagyu beef from David Blackmore proved a fitting climax to the savoury courses. The fillet, with a 9+ marbling score – the highest quality by the Japanese rating – benefitted from sous vide cooking to emphasise its soft, flavoursome qualities. It was then coated with faro, buckwheat hazelnut and Ezekiel which gave contrasting flavour and texture without overwhelming the meat flavour. Served with oxtail, morel and a pureed black pudding, this deeply earthy dish was as decadent as it was delicious. The full bodied red, with its intense bouquet of chocolate, palate of rich berry fruit with spicy long finish worked very well with this dish. (Wine:2008 Cascabel “El Sendero” Tempranillo, Malaren Vale)

The first dessert entitled “Jewels,” was inspired by the idea of finding precious items under snow. This palate cleanser comprised a fine textured granita, flavoured with lillipilli to give a sweet but slightly acidic taste, Partially covered were pink grapefruit segments, caramelised cranberries and pomegranate jelly amongst other delights. This was a playful, fun dish, expertly matched by a sweet, sparkling wine with the taste and aroma of red apples –an inspired choice indeed.

(Wine: NV Alain Renardat-Fache Bugey-Cerdon Demi Sec, Bugey, France)

Finally, a composite dessert featured a warm brioche, coated in a maltose crust and flavoured with vanilla and palm blossom. Caramelised white chocolate, amaretto cream, walnuts and prune sorbet provided other elements which harmonised well in taste, texture and temperature. The fortified sweet wine served with the dish was intense and luscious.

(Wine: Campbells Liquid Gold, Rutherglen)

Other aspects of the meal were also first rate. The four sourdough; breads – rye and spelt; polenta and sunflower, white and malted whole wheat – had crisp crusts and firm crumb. Coffee and petit fours were exemplary. The ceramic dishes had been carefully selected to showcase the food to maximum advantage.

The service was welcoming, friendly, attentive but unobtrusive. Unlike many top end restaurants it was also well informed, so staff had no trouble in answering questions about ingredients and cooking methods. This was no mean achievement given the variety and complexity of Peter Gilmore’s cooking. Amanda Yallop showed enthusiasm and great depth of knowledge in her role as sommelier. The matching flight on classic wines was expertly chosen, and described with admirable clarity and succinctness.

Dining at Quay was a real joy and utterly memorable. In a restaurant world where tasting menus have become ubiquitous and predicable, to produce an eight course meal as original, creative and satisfying as Peter Gilmore’s – the best degustation menu I have eaten – fully justifies the plaudits he has received. Dining in his restaurant was the highlight of my trip to Australia and will be an excellent reason for a return visit.

Whatley Manor

Since becoming Head Chef in 2003, Martin Burge has received high acclaim from food critics and his peers for his refined, gastronomic cuisine. With two Michelin Stars, 8/10 in the Good Food Guide – making ‘The Dining Room’ one of the top twenty restaurants in the country – and four AA rosettes, he can be justifiably proud of his culinary achievements. Named Chef of the Year by The Independent in 2009, he has exceeded this by being admitted to the elite group of Grands Chefs in 2011. It is clear that Martin is near the peak of his profession, being recognised for his major contribution to their craft.

Not that he has exhausted his creative energy and is content to coast. In talking to him, you cannot fail to be impressed by his almost youthful enthusiasm, his genuine passion for food, and his utter determination to progress further. He rightly shuns the current vogue in criticising the use of amuse bouches and pre-desserts by serving two of each on his menu: they add value and are a further outlet for new, sometimes playful ideas. He embraces new kitchen technology such as the water bath which gives greater consistency of result, and will experiment with ingredients and techniques: for instance, a crisp sesame biscuit to accompany an amuse bouche is actually made from bread rolled through a pasta machine to achieve its correct texture and thinness.

Having served under major names such as Richard Neat, Raymond Blanc and John Burton-Race, Martin could have easily synthesised their approaches and offered it as his own. Instead, he has created a personal, distinctive style in which classical French cuisine is given a modern interpretation. There are interesting but not outlandish combinations, updated cooking techniques, and innovative presentation, often with an element of surprise given the understated menu descriptions. Saucing is a particular strength, whilst foams and purees are always integral to the composition rather than extraneous flourishes.  The multi component, labour intensive dishes are rich but light. Ingredients harmonise whilst retaining their distinctive tastes and textures. Precision in cooking methods and timing elicit their purity and depth of flavour.

Happily, Martin has not jumped on the “local is best” bandwagon, sourcing his scallops and langoustines, for instance, from Scotland rather than Cornwall. Nevertheless, regional products such as some excellent cheeses enhance his menu. Seasonality however, is more important, as shown, for example, by the top quality summer vegetables used in the dishes sampled.

The carte of seven starters, six mains, six desserts and cheese reflects the depth and breadth of his gastronomic versatility, from mushroom pannacotta through to blackcurrant ravioli. Menu descriptions, although detailed, still understate their composition and complexity of cooking. Six or seven dishes are changed with the seasons. However, two in particular are so popular it would be difficult to take them off. Martin is particularly proud of a starter of braised snails in a garlic cassonade with red wine sauce infused with veal kidney and a cheese /dessert of black truffle ice cream, lightly creamed Roquefort, deep fried goat’s cheese and candied walnuts. These have become signature dishes.

The Dining Room which serves forty covers is long and narrow, but divided into three sections, so the effect is more confined. More eclectic in design and decor than other parts of the hotel, it features wooden floors, screens, square brown framed mirrors, spotlighting and tasselled chandeliers. Tables are well spaced, with comfortable seating and conventional fine napery.

Fine Dining Guide was able to visit The Dining Room on a july evening to sample dishes from the carte.

Three breads were offered – onion, spelt and pain de campagne. All were well made, the onion bread to be especially delicious, with light crumb and crisp crust.

The canapés showed the painstaking attention to detail lavished on this part of the meal: poached quail’s egg with smoked eel spume and leek was rich and flavoursome; foie gras mousse, teriyaki jelly and sesame crisp delighted both in a range of tastes and textures; and beetroot disc with crème fraiche and white balsamic gel was a good balance of sweet and sour.

This trio of canapés was followed by an amuse bouche of well seasoned haddock tartare spiked with apple  – a surprisingly good combination – and finished with  a quenelle of Tewkesbury mustard ice cream that awakened the palate with its was lively heat and velvety smoothness.

The cooking of a starter of Scottish langoustine tails had been well timed to retain their sweet succulence. Accompanying them was a light, deeply flavoured cannelloni mousse made from the bisque of the shells wrapped in Madeira gel. Macaroni, stems of Swiss chard and peas proved suitably light and fresh garnishes. A truffle sauce spiked with more truffle brought this visually stunning dish together.  (Wine: Chardonnay 2009, Domaine St Louis, Chablis, France)

Another starter of Squab pigeon breast was poached and roasted to give a delicate softness and caramelised crust. Croquette like towers made good use of the leg meat. The gentle gaminess of the pigeon was boosted by the creamy silkiness and gentle livery qualities of pan fried foie gras. A reduced jus of intense, dark Pedro Ximenez sherry, with tiny cubes of its jelly, together with golden raisins added a rich sweetness whilst lightly roasted pine nuts gave textural contrast. In conception and execution, this was another brilliant starter.  (Wine: Tempranillo / Garnacha 2006 Bodega Izadi, Reserva Rioja, Spain)

An intermediate course saw a hand dived scallop paired with flakes of warmed salmon. The inherent sweetness of the seared scallop worked well with the smokiness of the oily fish. The wonderful freshness of the seafood was enhanced by a well balanced celeriac cream lightly infused with horseradish. Samphire and salmon caviar added elements of salinity and colour, enhancing the visual beauty of this dish which resembled a coastal rock pool.  (Wine: Chenin Blanc 2009 Kanu, Stellenbosch, South Africa)

Main courses continued to impress with their clarity of flavour, balance of textures and artistry in presentation.

A fillet of utterly fresh Turbot was pan fried to produce a golden crust and flaky, moist white flesh. Sweet, delicate crayfish tails added another luxurious element, whilst its mousse gave a deep bisque like flavour. Creamed stems of Swiss chard, along with well cooked asparagus, courgette flower, peas and tiny wild mushrooms were appropriate summer vegetable accompaniments. Shellfish cappuccino and a hazelnut emulsion gave a sophisticated finish to this highly memorable dish.  (Wine: Pinot Gris 2008 Matakana Estte, North Aukland, New Zealand)

Another main course of poussin bore similarities in conception to the pigeon starter. Here the tender, sweet, crisp skinned breast was paired with a  puree of foie gras, and a cannelloni of ham hock and confit chicken. The ham gave just right salty accent to season the whole dish with its asparagus, pea and wild girolles garnish.  A sticky Madeira jus spiked with truffle gave heady fragrance, elevating the whole dish. (Wine: Pinot Noir “margot” O.Leflaive Burgundy, 2009)

 The English and French cheeseboard, supplied by Premier Cheeses, offered a wide selection of cheese made from cow, goat and ewe’s milk. Those we selected were models of their kind. Of the French cheeses, the triple cream Brillat Truffe was soft, smooth and aromatic; Tomme Brulee slightly smoky; and Fourme d’Ambert savoury, nutty and dense. The English Love Ewe cheese was suitably earthy and pungent, whilst Ticklemore was crumbly, clean and fresh. Three condiments of Sauternes jelly, honey and thyme, and apple and pink peppercorn chutney served as good counterpoints to what in many ways was the heaviest and richest course. (Wine: Taylor’s LBV Port 2003)

The two pre desserts – a tiny quenelle of tropical fruit sorbet and  coconut alongside a foam base drank through a straw – were playful and enjoyable, cleansing the palate before the final course.

Apple and maple syrup cheesecake was first rate, amazingly light and fresh tasting, the gently acidic and sweet elements working well together. This was also true of the caramelised pecan nuts and poached apple, scooped into delicate balls, which also gave contrasting textures. A refreshing sorbet finished the dish perfectly. (Wine: Riesling, Late noble harvest 2008, Walker Bay, South Africa)

Cannelloni of Mango was a tour de force of invention and execution, the puree of the fruit forming the basis of the delicate sweet tube encasing a well flavoured, creamy mango mousse. This was cut by sharp lime curd and pink grapefruit segments and jelly, making this a well balanced dessert.  (Wine: Moscatel 2008 Finca Antigua, Castilla la Mancha, Spain)

The petit fours, which included an intense blackcurrant and clove jelly and crisp macaroon, and hand made chocolates, were exemplary. (Some of these chocolates are included in the Whatley Manor chocolate box available for guests to purchase before they arrive)

The service, from mainly young staff, was welcoming, informative and attentive without being obtrusive. It was  overseen by restaurant manager Glen Harris. The sommelier, deftly matched wines with food, giving concise, well informed descriptions.

Overall, this was a highly memorable, flawless meal of an excellent standard. Whilst meals in Whatley’s Manor’s Dining Room do not come cheap, the quality of the ingredients, the high levels of skill and artistry in producing the dishes more than justify the prices. This is cooking at a rare, highly elevated level by a master of his craft who still has even more to give. It is clear why Martin Burge and his team deserve the recognition they have achieved, and why they have the potential to go even further.

Fine-dining-guide was pleased to revisit Maison Blanc in Henley to sample the new Spring and Summer menu. This branch of the fourteen strong, up market chain is, after Oxford and Winchester, the third largest in terms of business, butprobably the most spacious in terms of accommodation, benefiting from outside tables and an upstairs extension. Given the expansion of this Thames side town, along with major attractions such as the famous Regatta, the Arts, Food and Literary festivals, the future success of the Henley branch seems assured.

The Maison Blanc concept, combining a classical boulangerie and patisserie with all day casual eating – breakfast, continental pastries, dishes from the oven, sandwiches, soups and salads and afternoon tea – has proved highly successful since its inception in 1981. But “up market” does not have to mean expensive. Indeed, one is struck by the value for money offered on the menu: ingredients are top notch and servings are very generous indeed. It is quite possible to enjoy a substantial meal and drink for around £10, especially if the large single portions are shared or the sharing platter is ordered.

The Spring and Summer menu dispenses with the slow cooked oven dishes – which included a delicious cassoulet – of the winter menu, and introduces new salads, ice cream and sorbets and a selection of new patisserie.

A salad of prosciutto, mozzarella, fig, pomegranate, avocado and mixed leaves was a best seller. This was not surprising given its utterly fresh combination of ingredients – a perfect taste of summer! Personally, I thought the leaves could be improved by a little seasoning beforehand. Nevertheless, the honey and mustard dressing, served in a separate jug, was a highly suitable, being not too powerful, with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. Equally enticing amongst the four salads on the menu were those with Moroccan chicken or smoked salmon and avocado.

The best of the seven items from the oven proved to be the classic Croque Monsieur, each component of which was top quality and properly rendered. The pain de mie, ideal for tasting, was topped with tasty ham, generously enveloped in a well seasoned béchamel and finished under the grill with grated Emmental. This Swiss cheese retained a gentle piquancy in its golden crust.

A warm tart of light, crisp puff pastry, lined with melted cheese was spoilt by the disappointing quality of the main ingredient – roast asparagus. The sprue stalks were overcooked, stringy and difficult to cut or bite off.

Of the eleven sandwich items, Salt beef ciabatta was another new best seller, being available with white or brown (cereal) bread. The beef was properly cured, being supple, tender and flavoursome. The horseradish cream had a moderate kick which did not overwhelm the beef. The oversize wedge could happily be shared between two hungry diners.

For dessert, French Maison Blanc ice creams – vanilla or chocolate ganache – and organic raspberry sorbet made a welcome appearance, and were available separately or as a side serving with patisserie. The sorbet had great purity of fruit flavour, with a rustic texture suitably reflecting its artisan method of production. Crème Brulee, a popular favourite, is now also on the dessert list.

No visit to Maison Blanc would be complete without trying at least one of the delectable range of patisserie, the supreme quality of which has come to define the brand. On the list of sixteen, ranging from éclairs and mille feuilles to classic tart au citron, are four new items including Summer Fig Daquoise and Raspberry Cheesecake. A delicate construction of syrup soaked Genoise sponge, white chocolate pannacotta and elderflower jelly filled with wild strawberry and pomegranate, was the most exciting of the new range. However, the new style Strawberry tart with crisp chocolate pate sucree was let down by tired looking strawberries and inadequate fruit glaze.

Much better was the ever popular Fraisier, comprising light vanilla sponge, delicate mousseline cream and fresh strawberries. Instead of the ubiquitous thick green marzipan found elsewhere, a thin white chocolate glaze completed this exquisite dessert, and was all the better for it.

The cup cake and macaroon revolutions have not escaped the Maison Blanc brand with a variety of flavours on offer. More interesting was the new pastry of the month, a beehive shaped polenta chocolate and honey cake which was much lighter and less rich than it looked.

If not taking out a pastry or savoury item, then artisan bread would be a good alternative. The Brioche loaf, the basis for the excellent club and new chocolate, sandwiches, was irreproachable in its buttery richness. Equally accomplished was the sweet, glazed and braided Challah loaf,

Overall, the Henley branch continues to thrive, enticing its customers with a well judged price structure, and an embarrassment of choice from the wide range of sweet and savoury items. Competition in the town is fierce, and is likely to be even stronger given the imminent arrival of another top end, all day casual eating restaurant and patisserie.

Nevertheless, the strength of the Maison Blanc brand, the efficient service, and, above all, the sheer quality of the product, will enable it to hold its own comfortably.

Fine-dining-guide had the pleasure of revisiting the Ritz in July to sample dishes from the summer menu. As the sun set and the evening light faded, the glories of the rococo dining room, illuminated under the orange glow of the chandelier and wall lighting, appeared more sumptuous than ever, enhancing this unique dining experience.

John Williams’ inexhaustible creativity is given full rein in his use of top notch seasonal ingredients. These are employed in sensitive, balanced combinations and cooked with consummate skill to maximise their taste and flavour. Classicaltechniques and modern, sometimes playful, touches give the cuisine its distinctive character. As always, dishes are beautifully presented, avoiding over elaboration and allowing the main ingredient to take centre stage.

The starter of dressed crab roll has become a signature dish. The summer version used creme fraiche and coriander tobind the delicate white crab meat within its thin apple wrap. The perfectly judged balance of sweet crab meat and acidicapple was given herbal fragrance by flecks of coriander which happily did not overwhelm the whole dish. Avocado and Charentais melon add fresh, contrasting textural notes. This was a brilliant start to the meal (Wine: Ritz Selection Champagne, Cuvee Privee, N.V. Brut)

Another equally luxurious starter of warm native lobster was perfectly timed to retain its inherent tender sweetness. The tail and claw meat exhibited a rich succulence rarely matched in other (nameless) top end restaurants which so often overcook this crustacean. A sauce based on apple juice with grapefruit gel and segments provided the gentle acidity the dishneeded. Visually, the presentation was stunning. The light bodied Riesling, with its bright citrus aroma and minerality, went well with this dish. (2010 Riesling, Saint Clair, Marlborough, New Zealand)

Another Ritz signature cooking technique was demonstrated in the next dish. A whole turnip, wrapped in a salt crust and baked in hay, had been thinly sliced to serve as an open raviolo enveloping morels and button onions in a watercresssauce. The delicate muted flavour of the turnip allowed the rich smoky earthiness of the morels to shine. The soft, honeycomb like texture of the fungus also provided a good contrast to the crispness of the onions, the sweetness of whichbalanced savoury elements perfectly. The freshness and good balance of the Pinot Gris proved to be another fine match for the food (2007 Pinot Gris, Hugel et Fils, Alsace, France)

Fish cookery, whether using the humble mackerel or the noble halibut, has always been a forte of the Ritz kitchens. The composite dish offered was a veritable tour de force of conception, execution and presentation. Two perfectly trimmed Dover sole fillets were sandwiched together with leaves of lemon verbena which succeeded in enhancing the fish’s distinctive mild flavour. The timing to the cooking retained its firm texture. A light, balanced sauce of acidic verjus with sweet golden raisins lifted the whole dish. By way of contrast and added richness, a bowl of lobster fricassee, deeply flavoured in thick, creamy bisque, was served as an accompaniment. The warm, fruity character and aromatic notes of the Italian Chardonnay worked well with the fish. (2008 Marinali Bianco, Villa Sandi, Veneto, Italy)

Next to be served was a lamb dish which could be described as “summer on a plate.”. Noisettes of new season’s milk fed lamb were cooked pink, producing a meltingly tender, rich tasting result. A crisp beignet of slow cooked shoulder meat added textural and flavour contrast. Delicately spiked rosemary curd, made from lamb’s milk, provided some of the saucing, in addition to the rich but light jus. Finally, potato fondant, smoked aubergine, courgette flower, sun dried tomato and basil leaf garnishes evoked all the fresh and vibrant flavours of summer’s bounty. A Chilean Merlot of elegant and complex character was served with this dish. (2008 Angustora, Merlot, Grand Reserva, Casa Silva, Colchagua Valley, Chile)

Two desserts exemplified the skilled craftsmanship and imagination of the pastry section, worthy of Careme himself.

The first highlighted a port roasted fig and its intense sorbet resting on caramelised rice pudding, itself contained in cinnamon shortbread case. The whole construction was then topped with a gossamer- like cage of spun sugar. Perfection!

Vacherin Glace was a playful deconstructed version of the French classic. Here the lemon verbena cream formed the base,whilst nodules of meringue, along with raspberries, ice cream and tuile biscuit decorated the top. The sweet and fragrantflavours combined with soft and crisp textures, made this an exciting new dessert. The rose and lychee aroma of the accompanying sweet wine complemented the desserts well, (2007 Elysium, Black Muscat, A Quade, California, USA)

Other aspects of the meal were all first rate, from the excellent breads – the bacon brioche is particularly fine – to the coffee and petits fours. The efficient service, under the scrutiny of Luigi Cagnin, was welcoming, well informed and unobtrusive.

As stated in my previous review, the talents of John Williams and his team have yet to receive the Michelin starred recognition they deserve. The summer menu at the Ritz can only serve to confirm the brilliance of the their output. Let us all hope The Ritz receives good news in September!

Taj Hotels and Palaces boasts a portfolio of properties as exquisite as the name suggests, and owes its history of success to the entrepreneurial zeal of its founder Jamsetji N. Tata , who opened his first hotel, The Taj Mahal Palace, inBombay over 100 years ago.

The tradition of innovation and excellence that inspired the first property has continued to the present day, including with the chain’s London estate, 51 Buckingham Gate and the adjacent Crowne Plaza St. James. The neighbouring properties offer handsome accommodation, both in the conventional setting of the 4* Crowne Plaze or the luxurious surrounds of the neighbouring suites and residences of 51 Buckingham Gate, which deservingly has been awarded five stars.

The Courtyard at 51 links the two properties, offering a focal point from which to enjoy the Victorian-Edwardian architecture of the former townhouses, designed by engineer Major Charles Pawley.

The courtyard at the centre of Pawley’s elegant deign is encircled by a beautiful frieze that makes the perfect setting for what might be traditionally described as a summer soiree.

Seizing upon the opportunity presented by this natural arena, and inspired by the tradition of Glyndebourne, the events team at Taj pioneered the concept of ‘Opera Al-fresco’ in 2010. Despite some inclement weather, this launched to great success, with all four dates attracting a substantial waiting list.

This year the Summer Music Season is back with a varied repertoire, from Classic Arias to contemporary West End Musicals.

Spanning dates from the 1st July until mid-August, there are twelve evenings of music, with four performances each of ‘Opera in the Courtyard’, ‘West End Contemporary’, and ‘Classic Hits of the West End’.

The artists selected for these performances, from London companies Soprano Bella, The London Quartet and Viva Live Music, are as reliably sourced and accomplished as the dishes on the accompanying menu.

West End Contemporary Musical Theatre, performed by Soprano Bella, predictably packs the punches with a medley of songs from such favourites as Phantom of the Opera and Mamma Mia. Be prepared to join in the choruses and dance to the instantly recognisable tunes.

Cantabile (below) – The London Quartet takes a more traditional tone with Classic Hits from the West End. This includes excerpts from Guys and Dolls and Les Miserables There is a remarkable, high pitched rendering of “Bring him home,” and the show is completed with a clever, if unexpected, rendition of The Lambeth Walk!

Opera in the Courtyard, performed by Viv Live Music, is an altogether different feast, and perhaps feels more appropriate to the elegance of the space. The recitals feature well-know pieces such as Puccini’s Nessun dorma and the Flower Duet from Lakme, with a particularly impressive performance by the lead soprano.

The accompanying menu is fresh, contemporary and Mediterranean in flare. A simple Greek Salad begins proceedings, followed by a yielding and deeply rich Gin-braised Lamb Shank. For vegetarians there is the alternative of a butternut and bean braised aubergine shank, which is equally satisfying. The meal is rounded off by an Iced Honeycomb Parfait with silky smooth Italian meringue, and for those who wish to partake, coffee and mignardise can be enjoyed under the light of the stars.

At £75 per person, including dinner, the Summer Music Season represents good value, particularly as the intimacy of the courtyard offers for a much more exclusive feel to the event than the price alone would intimate.

The full programme is:–

Friday 1 and Saturday 2 July: Opera performed by Viva Live Music

Friday 8 and Saturday 9 July: Classic Hits of the West End by Cantabile – The London Quartet

Friday 22 and Saturday 23 July: Contemporary Musical Theatre by Soprano Bella

Friday 29 and Saturday 30 July: Opera performed by Viva Live Music

Friday 5 ad Saturday 6 August: Classic Hits of the West End by Cantabile – The London Quartet

Friday 12 and Saturday 13 August: Contemporary Musical Theatre by Soprano Bella

Outside of the calendar for these special events, the Courtyard can be visited daily from midday until late, where the atmosphere changes like the light of the sun, from a quiet space for afternoon tea, to evening, where it becomes a happening medina of sizzling BBQ’s and fragrant Shisha pipes.

Specialising in middle-eastern delicacies and signatures cocktails, such as the gin-based ‘51’, the Courtyard is an idyllic space to while away the hours on the type of summer evening that London all too infrequently enjoys.

Located on the top floor of No 1 Poultry, in the heart of the square mile, Coq d’ Argent is ideally placed at attract lunch and dinner trade from the City’s financial and commercial workforce. However, it is much more than a corporate restaurant, attracting a wide range of discerning customers since it opened in 1998. The evenings, in particular, show a more relaxed, informal atmosphere with an exciting buzz.

Accessed by private glass lift, which itself generates a special sense of anticipation, the rooftop terrace, brasserie and restaurant do not disappoint with their stunning views, sense of space and contemporary design. Architect James Stirling’s use of red Portland stone provides a fitting backdrop to the exquisite roof garden designed by Arabella Lennox-Boyd. Drinks can be enjoyed on the outside tables whilst absorbing the skyline panorama which includes the Bank of England, St Paul’s, the Monument and the Gerkin.

The restaurant itself features a huge floor to ceiling window facing the canopied, lamp heated terrace for al fresco eating. Inside the large dining room, green leather bucket chairs and soft banquettes provide comfortable seating. Square tables, rather closely spaced, align the sides, whilst round ones accommodate larger groups. Fine napery and glittering place settings anticipate a serious dining experience.

Head Chef Mickael Weiss (above) has produced a menu that reflects his extensive experience in England and his native France. This includes working in Relais & Chateaux hotels in France and head chef positions at Kartouche, Chapter One and the Bleeding Heart restaurants in London. Knowledge of City dining habits may have taught him the virtues of adhering to a largely classical repertoire for a largely conservative clientele.

Combinations of high quality ingredients are generally safe, with dishes being well executed. There is harmony in the balance of flavours and textures. A tendency to eschew the excesses of fine dining is shown in the absence of amuses bouches and pre-desserts. Those seeking cutting-edge cuisine must look elsewhere.

Ample choice on the carte is provided by 11 starters including a plateau de fruits de mer and Colchester oysters. Two vegetarian dishes supplement seven meat and three fish main courses. There are eight desserts and one cheese option.

To celebrate ten years in his current position, there is a six course tasting menu, with two alternatives in each course

Amongst the starters, snails in garlic butter, crevettes mayonnaise and smoked salmon were familiar, popular classic dishes. For those who spare no expense, the menu advised “a more extensive selection of caviar is available to pre-order.” Equally decadent but less expensive was the terrine of foie gras, a model of its kind, properly marinated and seasoned with a suitably rich, melting quality. This was offset well by delicately spiced pear chutney and accompanied by excellent toasted brioche.

Another starter of Devon crab salad featured a generous portion of utterly fresh white meat, and made good use of the brown meat in a well seasoned parfait. A puree of avocado and wasabi was well judged so as not to be too strong, although the dish as a whole would have benefitted from a citrus lift.

Mickael’s signature dish, Coq aux morilles, a well flavoured bird braised with onions, smoked bacon, mushrooms and the delectable fungus, has justifiably retained its popularity. Amongst familiar meat courses such as rack of with gratin dauphinois or the rump steak with seasonal vegetables, an assiette of pork offered a more adventurous, but not too innovative alternative. The cooking of the three cuts was finely tuned: the belly had the promised crisp crackling; the braised cheek was unctuously tender; and the fillet was pleasingly juicy. Garnishes of caramelised apple, plum, beetroot and port sauce might suggest a surfeit of sweetness but were remarkably well balanced in their composition and set off the dish nicely.

Skilled fish cookery was well exemplified in a dish of roasted halibut. A generous ultra fresh fillet was precisely timed to produce a golden crust with moist flesh. This robust fish stood up well to its wrapping of smoked streaky bacon and a grenobloise dressing of capers, brown butter and lemon. Saffron potatoes added colour and a perfumed note without being too dominant.

Desserts showed a greater element of flavour experimentation with violet and blackberry parfait, white chocolate and strawberry tart and pear and salted caramel miroir. However, many would opt for the classic tarte tatin for two. This had the correct degree of caramelisation, soft chunks of apple and crisp melting pastry. The crème fraiche accompaniment gave balancing acidity, whilst well made rich vanilla ice cream gave contrasting texture and temperature.

Other aspects of the meal – homemade breads, coffee and petit flours – were very good. Service, led by the Head Waiter, Nino Fernandez, was charming, efficient and knowledgeable. The sommelier expertly chose matching fine wines by the glass for the savoury courses; for instance, the Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnere. Louis Michel 2008, was an inspired choice for both the halibut and pork main courses, albeit at £20 a glass. The award winning wine list, featuring distinguished vintages from Old and New Worlds, is a true connoisseur’s crop. To make some of these more accessible, the D & D group composes a “Love Wine” list for each of its restaurants. At Coq d’ Argent, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon Domaine Leflaive 2007 is a relative bargain at £98.00.

A visit to Coq d’Argent is not cheap, although the set lunch is an opportunity to sample Mickael Weiss’s cooking at more modest prices – £28 for two courses, £32 for three. Overall, the restaurant’s wide ranging menu of classic dishes, carefully rendered but with few frills, has proved to be a winning formula, both for City workers and those coming for a special occasion. Given its central location and rooftop setting, this success is certain to continue.

The reopening of Four Seasons on Park Lane, London, after a two year closure, has evoked much interest and, indeed, envy. Not only has the guest accommodation undergone complete restructuring and refurbishment, but so have the public areas, to the tune of a £125 million investment. The distinction between fine dining, which gained Brunot Loubet and Jean-Christophe Novelli acclaim here in the 1990s, and less formal eating has disappeared. In its place is an integrated bar, lounge and restaurant, with meals taken in any of the three areas, at most times of the day, according to the occasion and mood of the guests. This flexibility would appeal particularly to hotel guests who might otherwise have to seek alternative dining venues. However, the separate dark glass entrance clearly suggests that Amaranto has aspirations to be a destination restaurant.

The remodelling of the ground floor has produced an opulent, stunning series of interconnecting rooms, in keeping with the high standards of the Four Seasons group. The conservatory front of the restaurant opens onto a terrace garden which willsoon be available for al fresco dining. Inside, marbled surfaces in black and upholstery in red are the predominant colours in the bar and restaurant. The distinctly plush, oriental feel is further emphasised by Chinese lacquered cabinets, spot-lit equine sculpture and dim lighting.

Amidst the unashamed luxury and pleasing design is an interesting feature; the well spaced dining tables are covered with leather table tops and tablemats which is perhaps in keeping with the modern way of maintaining a relaxed feel in otherwise opulent surroundings.

Heading operations in the kitchen is Chef Davide Degiovanni, whose experience at Semplice and Locanda Locatelli, both Michelin starred, will stand him in good stead and provide an achievement to emulate. Certainly, he is highly enthusiastic in his new role, and relishes the challenges ahead. Amaranto is a much bigger undertaking with its flexible eating arrangements. The remodelled kitchens accommodate up to 22 chefs, preparing an average of 180 covers at day across restaurant, bar and lounge. The Italian based, seasonally changing menu, overseen by Executive Chef Adrian Cavagnini of the La Terrazza restaurant at the Hotel Eden in Rome, uses ingredients imported from Italy wherever possible which helps to account for their superb quality, but also for the high prices. Whilst the daily set menus offer a less expensive opportunity to sample the light, modern interpretation of regional Italian cuisine, a fuller appreciation of the kitchen’s skill is gained from the carte.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in found much to admire in the cooking and service.

The sumptuous, seductively designed bar, replete with impressive Italian-led ‘wine walls’ was the ideal place to enjoy an aperitif. An exquisitely refreshing bellini of raspberry and thyme proved an excellent start to the evening.

Initial impressions were very good: home made breads, including three kinds of Focaccia and Stromboli (anchovy and gorgonzola) had fine texture and full flavour. This was enhanced by dips of Tuscan and Sardinian olive oil and rich balsamic vinegar.

An amuse bouche of candied tomato with mackerel, carbonara and pesto served its purpose of exciting the palate with the vibrant, herby flavours that typify Italian cuisine.

A starter of delicate and well flavoured Fassona beef carpaccio, lightly seasoned with celery and spring herbs, was given a lift by the addition of parmesan mousse – far more exciting than the usual parmesan shavings! The elegant acidity and well integrated sweet tannins of the Pinot Noir did full justice to this dish. (Wine: Hofstaetter Barthenau Vigneto Sant Urbanhof Pinot Nero 2007)

Another starter involved scallops prepared three ways. Britanny scallop seared in pancetta with a carbonara sauce, retained its natural succulence. A tartar, bursting with fresh sweetness was balanced by blood orange and chives. Less successful was a scallop carpaccio with spicy new potatoes, the taste of which was muted. The accompanying Chardonnay, with its fruity aroma, mild acidity and hint of vanilla, set off the shellfish perfectly. (Wine: Elena Walch “Beyond the Clouds”, Chardonnay 2007)

An intermediate course; a serving of aubergine risotto; one of chef Degiovanni’s signature dishes proved delightful. The rich, creamy rice, slightly al dente in texture, was given extra depth of flavour by a taleggio cheese fondue and finished with a 120 year old Modena balsamic, poured by the chef himself. This was a masterful rendering of risotto, so often used and abused by lesser chefs, providing the appropriate consistency and bursting with flavours. The sparkling Ferrari wine, yeasty, crisp and elegant, with a hint of ripe apples, proved an ideal match for the food. (Wine: Ferrari “brut perle”, Blanc de Blanc)

Main courses featured grilled British meat with Italian touches. Casterbridge lamb cutlets were grilled pink to maximise their flavour and coated with a balsamic sabayonne which added a gentle sweet and sour element. Roasted root vegetables gave extra sweet earthiness and contrasting texture. The matching Valpolicella wine, with its warm and spicy bouquet, and its complex, velvety taste, worked well with the grilled lamb and the balsamic sabayonne. (Wine Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006)

Deeply flavoured, matured Angus beef fillet was perfectly timed to a medium rare. Baby baked potato, creamed Swiss chard and sweet and sour aubergine proved to be interesting garnishes which did not overwhelm the meat. However, the dish, although not dry, may have benefited from more sauce to bring the elements together. The accompanying red wine had a ruthless acidity which complemented the savoury elements to perfection (Wine: Fattoria le Pupille “Poggio Valente” Morellino di Scansano 2006)

Desserts exceeded the high standards set by the previous courses, showing the strengths of the pastry section. Apple and cream mille foglie, featured multi layers of softly baked caramelised apple, topped with mascarpone cream on a crunchy almond biscuit base. A paper thin dried apple slice crowned this simple yet delicious dessert

Even better was the white chocolate and lime tart, the soft filling of which burst with amazing citrus fragrance. The accompanying passion fruit sorbet was a model of its kind, with intense flavour and velvety texture. A lively citrus dressing completed this outstandingly refreshing dessert, the after taste of passion fruit and lime lingering for some time.

Excellent coffee and petit fours completed this accomplished meal. True to the Four Seasons’ reputation, service throughout the evening was relaxed, welcoming, efficient, attentive and unobtrusive. In particular, Sommelier Rafael Peil explained the matching wines with an infectious enthusiasm which demonstrated a deep and passionate love of his craft.

The wine list, predictably strong on Italian vintages, also had a carefully chosen selection from Old and New Worlds. A unique feature, at least for London restaurants, is to sample the wine list by the glass, provided at least two are ordered.

Amaranto has made an impressive start under an inspirational chef and capable front of house. Although the competition is fierce, especially from the other five star hotels in Park Lane, the Four Seasons can rightly reclaim its place in offering its guests a memorable dining experience. With over 60 covers present on a mid-week evening, the carefully constructed concept of providing a versatile restaurant that can satisfy guests while attracting those from further afield is clearly paying dividends.

Coworth Park, the restored 18th century mansion set in 240 acres of Berkshire parkland, is a triumph of sophistication, luxury and good taste. This applies both to the interior design by Martin Hulbert of Fox Linton Associates and – literally – to the cuisine of multi-Michelin starred chef, John Campbell.

As befitting part of the Dorchester Group, no expense has been spared in creating a contemporary style with a sense of historic grandeur. The high ceilinged, well lit reception area, drawing room and bar are attractively adorned with elegant chandeliers, original artwork, sculpture and modern glass. Stylish leather seating, plus carpeting and silky fabrics add to the sumptuous feel of the rooms. The design of the dining room itself draws inspiration from the natural surroundings with its stunning canopy of oak leaves and acorns in beaten copper. Hanging from the ceiling and reflected in the mottled pattern of the carpet, this magnificent adornment to the room creates a unique and dramatic effect; that it appears to “crown” the exquisite food and drink being served below is a highly appropriate imag

Having made his name at Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter, where he gained his first Michelin star, and the Vineyard, Stockcross where he gained his second, John Campbell seeks to emulate these achievements in his role as Consultant on the grander stage of Coworth Park. To say he is a passionate chef fails to do justice to his total commitment to the profession. Whilst love and emotion are apparent in his infectious enthusiasm at interview, the foundations of his success are rooted in an extensive knowledge and clear understanding of ingredients and cooking techniques. Whether in describing the best way of preparing stock or explaining flavour combinations to stimulate different taste receptors of the palate, his intelligent application of scientific principles is clearly evident. That he is willing to share his expertise is an even greater testament to his dedication and generosity. As co author of the leading manuals used in cookery schools, and as visiting professor of International Gastronomy at Thames Valley University, his legacy will thrive in future generations of chefs. This sharing of ideas and experience is no truer than in the kitchens of Coworth Park where new dishes are the collaborative effort of a least five people, including Head Chef Olly Rouse.

To use top quality, seasonal and local ingredients has become almost a cliché amongst top chefs, no matter how true; but to create unusual yet harmonious combinations, giving a range of taste sensations, is far more demanding. This is where John Campbell’s cooking excels. Balance of flavour, taste and texture are essential. Although plates never appear cluttered, and the main ingredient is allowed to shine, dishes in all three courses are multi component, each element retaining its individuality. Foams and purees are used not as decorative touches but as integral parts of the whole; how pleasing to note also that foams here actually taste of the advertised ingredient. Menu descriptions are understated, even terse, allowing for an element of surprise and even amusement when dishes are brought to the table. All these characteristics were displayed to their full advantage when Fine Dining Guide visited for a week day lunch.

Guests can choose from the daily three course Shire Menu, made from ingredients sourced within a 70 mile radius; the eight course tasting menu, with a vegetarian alternative; or the carte. Any of these choices will begin with crisp bread with humous and anchovy dips and Parmesan crisps. Four types of well made bread – wholemeal, rye, crispy baguette and poppy seed – are also offered. An amuse bouche of cold pea espuma with meat juice and bacon was vibrant in both taste and colour.

A starter from the carte was humbly labelled as “Duck, cherry, water chestnut.” In fact, this composite dish featured cured smoked breast from a duck ham, a parfait of its liver, crispy deep fried tongue, a base of marinated sliced duck leg, water chestnut, turnip, pine nuts and cherry! This was a tour de force not only of creativity in balancing the flavours and textures, but also of consistency, each element being afforded equal attention so their inherent tastes shone through. The accompanying rich and powerful red wine stood up well to the game. (Wine: Marsannay, Pinot Noir, 2007, Burgundy)

Equally accomplished but much lighter was “Crab, grapefruit, avocado and cucumber.” Here, the beautifully fresh crab meat was wrapped in an ultra thin sheet of mouli and given acidity by the grapefruit. Again, surprise came in the form of salmon mi-cuit which also went well with cucumber and avocado. Skilled wine pairing was again displayed in the choice of white wine with its citrus and spicy notes. (Wine: Alliam, Gruner Veltliner 2009, Austria)

A third starter of “Red mullet, brandade, tomato, olive” was simple in conception and brilliantly executed. The rich smokiness of the seared fillet perched on soft saffron polenta contrasted with the taste sensation of baby tomatoes which had been marinated in olive oil and balsamic and burst with sweet and sour tastes. Olives also appeared in the form of a light crumble which added texture and a form of seasoning. The well rounded chardonnay, rich and buttery, drank well with this dish. (Wine: Domaine de L’Hortus, Chardonnay, 2009, Languedoc)

An intermediate course of “Scallop, ceviche, pak choi, tomato” from the tasting menu made no mention of the nuts and morels that added earthy notes to more delicate flavours. This was one of the most labour intensive of the dishes, involving a gentle sear of the shellfish, marinating in citrus for six hours, and the extraction of tomato water through muslin to create a sublime essence which, when poured at the table, lifted the whole dish. The chosen wine, intensely concentrated with salty minerality and lasting finish was another inspired choice by the sommelier. (Wine: Pioneer Block 18, Sauvignon Blanc 2010, New Zealand)

A main course of “Sole, chicken, asparagus and grapes” can be seen as a playful version of Sole Veronique, but made with Lemon rather than Dover sole, and with a much lighter butter sauce. The addition of a hazelnut praline crust, chicken wing and asparagus completed the combination of soft and crisp, savoury and sweet, strong and mild elements. The accompanying white Burgundy had bright, citric qualities that worked well with the fish. (Wine: Meursault, Les Luchets, 2007, Burgundy)

“Royal farm beef, polenta, beetroot, bone marrow” was, perhaps, the least complicated of main courses, but no less accomplished for that. Cooked to a perfect medium rare, its mature flavour was complemented by the softness of the polenta, sweetness of the beetroot and the richness of the bone marrow beignet. How fitting that cured meat and tobacco notes of the rich, dark berry Syrah should be offered with this dish (Wine: Cote Rotie, Baurgard, Syrah, 2006, Rhone Valley.)

“Halibut, oyster, chorizo, seaweed” saw the firmly textured fish precisely cooked, giving a golden crust and retaining its inherent moistness. An oyster, wrapped in brik pastry, squash and potato spaghetti, showed real skill and attention to detail in producing sophisticated garnishes. Fennel puree and chorizo gave gentle and aniseed and spicy notes which did not overwhelm the fish. The good balance of slightly sweet fruit flavours and brisk acidity of the white wine complemented this dish wonderfully. (Wine: Ca’tullio, Pinot Grigio 2010, Italy)

Lime sorbet with green tea foam captured the fragrance of the fruit and the bitterness of the tea, proving a refreshing palate cleanser.

There were surprises in the dessert section. “Muscavado, marcapone, prune, passion” was a fun if loose interpretation of a deconstructed Tiramasu. The deep, sweet richness of the Muscavado replicated the coffee liqueur. However the dessert went much further with its use of prune and raisins soaked passion fruit to create a delectable, stylish dessert.

Lime and vanilla pannacotta was an unusual combination which worked well and showed the correct degree of wobble. Gariguette strawberry sorbet and jelly had an intensity not usually associated with this fruit. Finally, tarragon foam gave a gentle herby aniseed note which worked better than the ubiquitous mint leaf found elsewhere.

“Hay Chocolate, rose, blood orange” was even more experimental. Chocolate infused with dried hay and reminiscent of those rural smells, was rendered into a ganache. It came with rose marshmallow, crystallised rose, blood orange puree and lychee sorbet. The sparing use of the potentially overpowering rosewater was an inspired element in this brilliant evocation of the English countryside.

The description of “Mango, coconut, black olive” failed to do justice to the intensely flavoured mango parfait and rich coconut rice pudding served. Black olive caramel, with its salty sweet notes, worked well with the other elements, which included mango puree and white chocolate ice cream

Good coffee, excellent petit fours and chocolates completed a memorable meal in what must be one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the country. Service under the direction of the charming and gracious Thomas Mercier, was impeccable.

Staff were friendly, engaging, unobtrusive and knowledgeable about the dishes – not an easy task given the range of components and cooking techniques. As mentioned above the flight of wines to accompanying the savoury courses hit the mark perfectly, enhancing the whole experience.

Olly Rouse and his brigade of 12 in the kitchen, together with the front of house team, have produced a restaurant of which they can be truly proud. The consultancy role of John Campbell will, no doubt, help take Coworth Park to greater heights, gaining the recognition from Michelin and other the major guides it deserves.

In recent years, The City and London’s East End has seen a flowering of successful restaurants, some of which easily outclass those found further west. Columbia Road Hackney, famed for its Sunday flower market, is not the obvious location for a destination restaurant, but this is what Brawn has become. Since opening in the autumn of 2010, this unpretentious bistro serving small plates from a pan-European menu, has attracted an increasing number of serious foodies, including restaurateurs, chefs and critics. For Bruno Loubet, who was sitting at the next table when we visited, it is his favourite restaurant.

Housed in the ground floor of a former commercial building – its bars still across the windows – Brawn is identified by the long snouted pig logo above its Horatio Street entrance. Inside the two high ceilinged dining rooms, the bare bricked, white painted décor is relieved by the artwork of Michael Tolmer, who also designed the logo Bare, café like wooden tables and chairs emphasise the simple, no nonsense approach to eating: the focus will always be on the food.

And what food it is! Ed Wilson and Oli Barker, the same team who opened Terroirs in Charing Cross, have produced a more extensive menu at Brawn, creating a real embarrassment of choice. There are three Taste Ticklers, seven items each of Pig, Plancha, and Cold, five Slow Cook plates, with four Desserts and up to five cheeses. Despite the small plate label, portions are large enough for sharing, part of the joy of eating here; and although the menu changes daily, part of itsstrength lies in the boldly flavoured, hearty meat and offal dishes available all year round.

An indulgent lunch began with two Taste Ticklers. Soft boiled quails’ eggs were a rich but delicate, enlivened with celery salt. Pork scratchings was a severely understated description for the long strips of warm, crunchy crackling that were actually served.

Three of the seven items from the Pig section were ordered.

The dish which gives the restaurant its name is far denser and more substantial than other inferior versions. The pieces of tongue, cheek and snout tightly compacted with herbs and set in jelly, results in a stronger flavour and firmer texture. This robust terrine is offered as a generous slab which would make a meal in itself.

Two plump quenelles of pork rillettes contained a well judged balance of shredded meat and fat, and had an unctuously melting quality on the tongue.

Jesus de Pays Basque ham was one of three chacuterie items. This thinly sliced, dark red salami, sprinkled with peppercorns to cut its delicate sweetness, had a deliciously chewy texture. The richness of this porcine feast was offset by the acidity of cornichons and pickled baby onions. The ideal accompaniment was the excellent Hackney Wild Sourdough bread baked at the e5 Bakehouse.

Of the seafood items sampled, smoked Cornish sprats were accompanied by a fresh horseradish cream which brilliantly offset the salty oiliness of the fish. Dorset clams with chilli, ham and garlic benefitted from a delicious broth of natural juices, enriched with white wine and butter.

Salad items were simple but utterly fresh and well prepared. Soft chicken livers, cooked pink, came with delicately dressed artichokes and lamb’s lettuce. Wedges of baby gems were lifted by a Dijon mustard dressing. Best of all was a plate of sweet Cheltenham beetroot, sour pickled walnuts and refreshingly pungent watercress.

Brandade gratin, one of the five Slow Cook dishes, contained a pleasing balance of salt cod and creamy pureed potatoes, topped with a golden crust.

The piece de resistance was a dish of Pigs trotters. The braised meat, fat and skin had been taken off the bone, finished in the frying pan, and shaped in a round mould. The rich, gelatinous qualities of this exquisite dish were countered by the sharpness of tarragon vinegar, shallots and capers in the accompanying sauce ravigote

Desserts are not in the same league as the savoury courses but well made and delicious nevertheless. Lemon tart had good pastry and a suitably astringent filling. Chocolate pots had smooth, velvety texture and a rich, bitter sweet flavour. A selection cheeses from Androuet in Spitafields were guaranteed to be in prime condition.

As for wine, both Brawn and Terroir pride themselves on their selection of natural wines, produced in sustainable, organic or biodynamic conditions. The list, arranged by style of wine rather than region includes “Stones, sea and shells”, “Clean lines” and “Jura and Guests” for white, and “Vins de Soif” and “Pinot Noir naturally” for reds. Given the range of dishes order, we left it to the manager to choose our wines. To begin, the sparkling pink wine from the Loire proved a refreshing aperitif. To follow, the 2008 Chardonnay, Cuvée Florine Ganevat, J-F Ganevat Jura and the 2009 Ploussard Uva Arbosiana, Domaine de la Tournelle red drank agreeably with the savoury courses.

Overall, it is clear why Brawn is thriving. The simple, relaxed ambience puts diners at their ease. The appealing menu of small dishes gives them an opportunity to “graze”, in order to appreciate the full range of the kitchen’s repertoire. Putting affordable, well cooked, honest food before discerning diners of all income groups is to be thoroughly applauded. Coupled with this is the responsibly sourced, highly agreeable wine list, with prices to match all pockets. Finally, the well informed, friendly and correctly paced service, reflecting the strengths of the front of house team, enhanced the overall experience.

The restaurant richly deserves the acclaim it has received and can look forward to even greater success in the future.

Fine–dining–guide made a return visit to Odette’s in Primrose Hill to sample the delights of the summer menu.

Bryn William’s restaurant continues to attract a loyal following in the prosperous neighbourhood and from those further afield.

In good weather, greater opportunities for alfresco eating are offered in the front terrace and the inner garden. Inside, those who find the eclectically designed front room with its cramped tables, chintzy wallpaper, wall lamps and metal chandeliers overwhelming can seek refuge in the more spacious back room which has been tastefully refurbished with display shelving and comfortable banquettes.

With a brigade of just five in the kitchen, Bryn continues toproduce seriously accomplished cooking, confirming hisplace amongst the leading young chefs in the capital. That he has not yet been awarded a Michelin star – it must surely be just a matter of time – remains a mystery. Both simple and complex dishes delight with their precision in cooking and generosity of serving. Eating at Odette’s can be a relative bargain, especially the set lunch and early evening menu, with two courses at £16, three at £20. On the carte, the quality and sheer range luxury ingredients, along with a wide choice, more than justify the price structure: starters range from £8 to £14, mains £16 to £25, desserts from £8 to £10 and cheese at £12. For those who are defeated by the embarrassment of choice, a six course tasting menu is available at £60, or £90 with matching wines. (£50 /£80 for the vegetarian option)

Bryn’s current menu fully exploits the brilliant, well sourced produce of summer. Consider, for instance, the lunch dishes of chilled tomato soup, lamb fillet with pea and mint risotto or Parmesan gnocchi with asparagus, broad beans and pesto and a dessert of strawberry soup with spiced bread ice cream.

These dishes capture much of the rich colours and vibrant, fresh flavours of the season. This continues into the carte, with summer vegetable tart with Jerusalem artichoke, radish and herb salad, or braised fennel, grilled courgette, black olive gnocchi and aubergine puree. Both these options also show the strength and versatility of Bryn’s Mediterranean influenced vegetarian cookery.

Our summer lunch dishes, left to the chef’s discretion, showcased his signature dish as well as new creations.

A starter of hand dived scallops, beautifully seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft melting flesh, worked well with confit chicken wing and a light chicken jus. The whole dish was lifted by a sublime puree of new season’s garlic, delicate sweet and fragrant. A crisp, vibrant white wine complemented this dish well. (Wine: Chenin blanc, Dry Creek, California, 2009)

Another starter of wood pigeon saw the breast roasted to a tender pink, with a pastilla of its leg, both resting on a thin jus flavoured with chocolate. A foie gras croquette added an unctuous richness, whilst pickled cherries gave a sweet and sour astringency which balanced the other elements perfectly. Like all the dishes, this was stunning in its artistic yet restrained presentation. The chosen red wine did full justice to the robust flavours of this dish. (Wine: Cotes du Rhone, “Haut du Brun”, Alain Jaume, 2009)

Heading the list of main courses, Bryn’s signature dish, showcased in BBC’s Great British menu for the Queen’s 80th birthday, revealed his creativity at its best. It was a triumphant marriage of turbot and oxtail. The pan roasted, golden crusted, firm textured and fully flavoured fish worked well with the slow cooked, meltingly tender boneless oxtail. Cockles and samphire added texture and element of salinity, complementing the fish. Red wine jus and garlic foam completed this composite, sophisticated dish, one which it will impossible to take off the menu, regardless of season. This distinctive dish deserved a fine accompaniment, which the lightly floral and fruity notes of the chosen white wine supplied.

(Wine: Macon Villages, Louis Chedeville, 2009)

Noisettes of Elwy Valley lamb from Bryn’s native Wales were cooked pink to retain their exceptional sweetness, whilst a wrapping of fat helped also to retain their succulence. A baton of shredded lamb shoulder, crumbed and deep-fried, added richness and textural contrast. Vegetable accompaniments of fondant potato and peas, baby gem lettuce and mint in the French style, enhanced the dish well. Of particular note is the quality and skilled cooking of the fresh peas, which avoided reducing them to unpalatable bullets! The big, full flavoured palate with berry aromas of the red wine proved a fine accompaniment. (Wine: Cotes du Rhone, “Haut du Brun”, Alain Jaume, 2009)

Desserts showed the same creativity and attention to detail as the other courses.

A playful interpretation of the seventies’ shop bought classic was Bryn’s Arctic roll. His version replaced ice cream with an intense lemon curd. Cranachan with raspberries provided an appropriate balancing garnish

Equally delicious was the rich, moist Pistachio cake, which worked particularly well with apple puree and calvados cream. Both desserts were enhanced by the well balanced sweet wine.

(Wine: Muscat de Rivesaltes, J M Lafage, Roussillon.)

Other aspects of the meal – the well made breads, the good coffee, and the knowledgeable and attentive service – were all beyond reproach. (However, it might be useful on hot summer days for mineral water to be chilled). Overall, eating at Odette’s is a joy, even if some of the décor is not to everyone’s taste. The consistency with which Bryn Williams delivers high quality dishes must surely stand his restaurant in good stead for Michelin star recognition. We await the publication of the next guide with interest.

Over a hundred years after its opening in 1906, The Ritz maintains its leading place amongst London hotels. The vision of Cesar Ritz, the Swiss hotelier, it has become synonymous with elegance, luxury and extravagance. A complete and sympathetic restoration from 1995 to 2005 brought the hotel back to its former glory, being abundantly evident in the public spaces and rooms. The vaulted Long Gallery opens on the right into the Art Deco Rivoli Bar, andon the left into the Palm Court, where the Ritz’ famous afternoon tea is served.

However, it is at the far end that the jewel in the crown lies. The Ritz Restaurant, designed in the Louis XVI style, is renowned as one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Europe, if not the world. Its high ceilings, French windows and mirrored walls give a wonderful sense of light and space. The richly coloured rococo décor includes the frescoed ceiling, gold statues of Neptune and Venus, painted murals and lavish drapes. This opulence is further emphasized by an array of chandeliers, linked by gilt bronzed garlands. Tables – there is seating for 100 – are generously sized and well spaced, with comfortably upholstered carved chairs.

Given such exquisite surroundings, it would not be surprising if everything else, including the food, proved an anti-climax. What is the case in many grand hotels is not, thankfully, true of the Ritz. Indeed, the meals produced here do full justice to the magnificence of the room.

Since 2004, the kitchens have been overseen by Executive Chef John Williams (Above), MBE. From humble beginnings, his culinary experience has included spells in some London’s finest hotels, including the Royal Garden, The Berkeley and Claridges, where he was maitre chef des cuisines for nine years before coming to the Ritz.

Whilst showing due respect to the hotel’s distinguished legacy of fine dining, John Williams has also appreciated the need to modernise aspects of the cuisine. In doing so, he has succeeded in producing a balanced repertoire that shows evolution, not revolution. His cooking combines classically based techniques with restrained creativity. There are no outlandish creations, no fusion dishes, no attempts at molecular, no smears, smudges or foams. The emphasis is on precise cooking to maximise the flavour of top quality ingredients; the careful balancing of flavours and textures; adopting combinations – some unfamiliar – which work; and beautiful presentation.

Balance can also be applied to the pricing of menus and their composition. John Williams is keen to make Ritz dining more financially accessible: the three course lunch and dinner du jour menus, at £39 and £48 respectively, help to achieve this.

The more expensive carte gives ample choice from eight starters, (including classic British pea and ham soup), sevenmains (including classic tournedos of beef), and seven desserts (including Crepes Suzette.). The Sonata six course tasting menu and vegetarian options are also available

Value for money is also important, as shown in the generous portions. There is also no stinting on luxury ingredients on the du jour menus, which might include smoked eel, beef, halibut, and even a Ritz classic, poached chicken demi-deuil.

fine-dining-guide had the pleasure of tasting dishes from the new Spring menu, with matching wines.

Over 90% of what is served in the restaurant is made from scratch, this being no less true of the excellent breads – olive, plain white, walnut and raisin – with crisp crusts and firm crumb. The onion and bacon brioche, in particular, was rich, soft and fully flavoured. How delightful, also, to see the near extinct Melba toast offered as an alternative!

An amuse bouche of dressed crab roll proved an exciting start to the meal. Utterly fresh white meat bound in mayonnaise filled a thin tube of fresh apple, the acidity of which, along with its puree, helped to offset the sweet richness of the crab. The spicing was gentle enough not to overwhelm the shellfish or fruit, whilst radish and thin squares of melon added texture and colour.

The first course was a highly innovative dish: soft discs of celeriac – the whole vegetable having been covered in a salt crust and baked in hay to enhance its mild, sweet taste – were paired with cubes of well flavoured pressed salted brisket. A bone marrow beignet gave richness, whereas wild mushrooms and truffle slices added a deep earthiness to this inspired combination. With the addition of a fried quail’s egg, this dish was also visually stunning. The spicy, floral notes of the accompanying Pinot Gris matched the food well. (Wine: 2007, Pinot Gris, Traditon, Hugel & Fils, Alsace, France.)

The next composite plate featured a large scallop, seared to give a caramelized crust and a sweet, translucent flesh, and smoked eel, with oily richness. These items were balanced by confit potatoes and baby beetroot, the whole dish being brought together by a watercress sauce that was mild enough to allow the other elements, including a crisp bacon rasher, to shine. The gentle acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc worked well as a foil to the sweet elements of this dish. (Wine: 2007, Sauvignon Blanc, Gravitas, Marlborough, New Zealand)

Wild salmon, asparagus and crayfish followed. The salmon had been briefly marinated in salt and citrus then cooked gently in a water bath for 24 hours. The result was a succulent medium rare fillet which burst with piscine goodness. Hollandaise partnered the salmon and the asparagus garnish well, although the crayfish and sauce Nantua were overwhelmed by the other ingredients. Again, the oaky, buttery Chardonnay proved an admirable partner to the food. (Wine: 2009, Chardonnay, Hamilton Russell, Walker Bay, South Africa)

A whole Bresse chicken, cooked en cocotte with truffles and morels, gave the opportunity for Gueridon service, which was expertly handled at this elevated grand hotel level. Sealed with pastry which was deftly removed, the cocotte was presented to both diners so the powerful aromas of bird and fungus could be appreciated. Then, the chicken was jointed with swift precision and served with an intensely reduced truffle jus and side dishes of new season’s peas, broad beans and baby carrots. Here, then, was an example of a relatively simple classic dish, without re-interpretation, just brilliantly executed to allow the deeply satisfying flavours to be enjoyed. The complex earthy, savoury notes of the silky, intense Pinot Noir matched the food perfectly. (Wine: 2008, Pinot Noir, Craggy Range, Temuta Road, Martinborough, New Zealand)

A pre dessert of meringue, pineapple sorbet and a brunoise of exotic fruit was suitably clean, light and refreshing, The dessert of “Pear Cigar” was a veritable tour de force of invention, skill and artistry, reflecting the excellent levels reached in the pastry section. Tiny cubes of caramelized poached pear were layered under a toasted brioche pain perdu which itself was topped by a delicately thin chocolate tube containing a rich parfait. All this was then surrounded by a chocolate cage, which has been “combed” into shape by hand. Eating this delectable confection was enhanced by drinking the Sauternes, with its apricot and honey notes. (Wine: 2007, Sauternes, Chateau Villefranche, Bordeaux, France)

Good coffee and well made petit fours ended an excellent meal, which, given the exquisite surroundings, also had an element of fantasy. Real enough, however, was the excellent service provided by Simone, the assistant sommelier who chose the wines, and Claudio, who attended our table. Both were helpful, well informed and friendly. Clearly Simon Girling, the restaurant manager, has a shaped an impressive team, professional, well drilled and formally suited. All this contributes to the memorable Ritz experience.

That John Williams was awarded an MBE acknowledges his services to gastronomy, and reflects the high esteem in which he is held by his peers. As Chairman of the British Academy of the Culinary Arts, he has been tireless in his promotion of the industry. At the same time, under his stewardship, the Ritz’s fortunes have been revived, with a wider demographic dining there than ever before. Public appreciation for his cooking is beyond doubt. It is now incumbent on the food guides, especially Michelin, to grant his restaurant the starred recognition it deserves.

The Olde Bell in Hurley, the pretty linear village on the banks of the Thames between Maidenhead and Henley, boasts a distinguished history dating back to the 12th century. Originally the guesthouse of the Benedictine Priory, the sanctus bell of which still hangs over the main door, it became renowned in later centuries as a staging inn on the London to Oxford route.

In 1688, it was the site of Lord Lovelace’s successful plot to oust James II in the Glorious Revolution. During the Second World War, guests included Churchill and Eisenhower who held secret meetings nearby.

More recently, the Olde Bell, with its accommodation and function rooms opposite, has gained a good local reputation for weddings and conferences. Accolades have also been showered on it, for instance The Times best ten UK pub gardens 2010, Daily Mail Hot 50 in 2009, and Vogue UK secret addresses in 2008.

Attention has also focused on Ilse Crawford’s design of the 60 cover restaurant which attempts, with limited success, to combine old with new: the original wooden paneling has been painted olive green; mock gas lamps and antler chandeliers give side and overhead lighting, and large wooden tables – some in booths – are furnished with an eclectic range of chairs, some traditional – long benches covered with tapestry – and others stylishly modern. This mixture might prove too indigestible for some diners.

However, The Olde Bell has yet to attract serious attention for the quality of its food. Happily, this is beginning to change with a new team the kitchen. Executive Chef Warren Geraghty’s (Left) CV includes experience at the Michelin starred Chez Nico and Pied a Terre, as well as Richard Neat’s eponymous restaurant in Cannes, and the celebrated restaurant West in Vancouver. New Head Chef James Ferguson trained under Gordon Ramsay and Angela Hartnett. Jason Farr, the new Pastry Chef, specialized in desserts at Rules. All three also have experience in the kitchens of L’ Escargot in Soho.

This impressive collective experience is expressed in a menu which embraces seasonal, locally sourced ingredients with wild and foraged food, which has become a passion of Warren Geraghty. There is no attempt to emulate the style of their mentors, although James Ferguson’s experience with Fergus Henderson’s nose to tail eating is seen in the unusual cuts of meat and fish, while desserts include some updated versions of the traditional British classics, a trademark of Rules.

The structure of the menu, which is constantly evolving, comprises nine starters ranging from £4.95 to £7.10; eight mains from £14.80 to £22.50; and eight desserts, £6.00 to £6.50. Portions are very generous indeed, with main courses garnished with vegetables, obviating the need for side dishes at £3.50 each. A selection of British cheeses is also offered: £8.50 for four, £11.50 for six. For all courses, excellence of provenance, purity of flavour and simplicity of presentation are paramount. Moreover, as the menu states, components of certain dishes might change during service if the chef so decides.

fine –dining –guide visited the Olde Bell on a midweek evening in late March 2011. Serving local – or at least English – produce also applies to mineral water, as we were clearly told that the Italian brand requested was not served. We were offered Tufapure sparkling water from Somerset instead!

A starter of shellfish bisque, made with large brown crabs, was outstanding in its intense flavour, smooth consistency and velvety creaminess. This labour intensive dish – I can imagine the pounding, flambéing, stirring and sieving that went into its preparation – outshone other versions I have tasted in Michelin restaurants. The accompanying cheese straws had a nutty bite that worked well with the soup.

A generous slice of pressed ham hock and duck confit terrine combined two well flavoured meats but was rather dense in texture. A layer of savoy cabbage partly relieved this, although the overall impression was one of heaviness. However, crunchy piccalilli, well balanced in its acidity and sweetness, provided the ideal foil to the protein.

Pan fried duck livers were well timed, being soft and tender. Toasted hazelnuts added a welcome crunch whilst the poached hen’s egg and a veal based jus added further richness. Wild mustard leaves gave the dish colour and a gentle fragrance.

A star main course comprised slow cooked ox cheeks, unctuously delicious with a melting texture. The richness was balanced by a light broth, lifted in intensity with home smoked oysters. New potatoes and radishes – an inspired addition – provided earthy contrasting tastes and textures to the soft meat, whilst horseradish grass was a colourful garnish.

A flavoursome organic pork chop retained its succulence through careful timing in cooking. Grilled radicchio, which had a pleasingly bitter – sweet edge, was another usual vegetable garnish that worked. A side dish of pureed potatoes was light, smooth and creamy, whilst roasted Chantenay carrots retained a delicate crunch.

Diners should be warned that the large portions of the starters and main courses should satisfy the heartiest of appetites. In order to sample the desserts we declined the richer, no doubt delicious, options like treacle tart with clotted cream and blood orange trifle, for the lighter alternatives.

Vanilla pannacotta, well flavoured with a correct degree of wobble, came with poached apple pieces which helped to offset the richness of the cream. Lime ice cream, unusual in itself, added a surprising citrus lift to the dish.

Pineapple upside down cake proved amazingly light, its caramelized fruit topping being balanced by a tangy yogurt ice cream

The carafe of Fleurie 2008 at £23.50 which we drank with the meal came from a connoisseur’s wine list selected by sommelier Nigel Sutcliffe and General Manager Alan Dooley. Listed usefully by ascending price rather than region, it offers reds from £17, whites from £16.50. The list of sweet lines, although expensive, is particularly impressive, with a surprising level of depth which includes Austrian eiswein.

Other aspects of the meal – the home made bread, good coffee and attentive, knowledgeable service of Arkadius, our waiter, all added to the experience and helped to detract from the dubious décor. Overall, the new team should be applauded in its quest to elevate the food standards of the Olde Bell. Whilst the summer months will also bring the attractions of al fresco dining of roasts and salads from the week end Summer Kitchen, the success of their new venture will ultimately be judged on the consistency of the dishes coming from the restaurant. From the evidence so far, there is much potential here, an essential pre requisite for success in this highly competitive part of the Thames Valley.