Odette’s is located on Regent’s Park Road, near the foot of Primrose Hill in an affluent area of northwest London. Given the area’s rich artistic, literary and media associations, as witnessed in the Primrose Hill Set of the mid 90s, it is hardly surprising that the décor and furnishings reflect a contemporary eclecticism. The bold floral chintz wallpaper, whitewashed brickwork, wall lights, blue and yellow backed chairs, and green carpet of the dimly lit, front dining room can provoke extreme reactions of loving or loathing. (Indeed one commentator has described it as a “whore’s boudoir.”) The lower dining area is more spacious, and is currently being refurbished with brightly lit bookcases, mirrors, prints and more comfortable banquette seating. The most luxuriously appointed area is also the least used: the subterranean bar has velvet banquettes lining two deep, restored alcoves. Al fresco eating is available in the terraced seating at the front and in the secluded walled garden.

Odette’s is located on Regent’s Park Road, near the foot of Primrose Hill in an affluent area of northwest London. Given the area’s rich artistic, literary and media associations, as witnessed in the Primrose Hill Set of the mid 90s, it is hardly surprising that the décor and furnishings reflect a contemporary eclecticism. The bold floral chintz wallpaper, whitewashed brickwork, wall lights, blue and yellow backed chairs, and green carpet of the dimly lit, front dining room can provokeextreme reactions of loving or loathing. (Indeed one commentator has described it as a “whore’s boudoir.”) The lower dining area is more spacious, and is currently being refurbished with brightly lit bookcases, mirrors, prints and more comfortable banquette seating. The most luxuriously appointed area is also the least used: the subterranean bar has velvet banquettes lining two deep, restored alcoves. Al fresco eating is available in the terraced seating at the front and in the secluded walled garden

His seasonal changing menus, many of the top quality ingredients being sourced from the family’s farm and nearby rivers

in North Wales, include a seven course tasting menu at £60 (or £85 including wines), a good value set lunch and early dinner from £16 for two courses and full a la carte menu (seven starters, eight mains and seven desserts, including cheese) available for lunch and dinner.

Most of Bryn’s cooking is unashamedly complex. Whilst techniques are classically French, dishes often feature unusual combinations which marry well; flavours are clean and often bold, and presentation is beautiful and immaculate.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a midweek evening and sampled dishes from the carte, with a tasting sample of Bryn’s celebrated signature dish.

An amuse bouche of beetroot foam with horseradish cream was gently light and sweet with a touch of heat.

A starter of three generous quenelles of whipped goat’s cheese was lifted by tiny drops of Regent’s Park honey. This richness was balanced by beetroot puree, whilst a sprinkling of pine nuts gave textural contrast. Visually, this dish was stunning.

A trio of roasted langoustines, perfectly timed to retain their sweetness and succulence, was enhanced by a deeply flavoured seafood foam. Although the accompanying gnocci might have been a little lighter, their blue cheese content was well judged so as not to overwhelm the delicate seafood.

Bryn’s signature dish of roasted turbot with braised oxtail, which he produced for the Queen’s 80th birthday, was a tour de force of robust flavours combined with artistic presentation. The crusted firm fleshed turbot held its own against the unctuous caramelized oxtail. Cockles, samphire and garlic foam, added contrasting textures and tastes, also helping to give the visual image of a coastal rock pool on the plate.

Another well executed fish main course saw steamed fillets of lemon sole garnished with brown shrimps – which also acted as a seasoning – and tiny cubes of cucumber and butternut squash. Attractively presented with a light cream sauce and puree of butternut, this dish would have benefitted from another vegetable to give substance and textural contrast.

Roast mallard duck, shot by Bryn’s uncle in North Wales, was presented in all its glory at the table before being carved. The simpler but well timed cooking did full justice to the gutsy, intense gaminess of the wild bird. The red wine jus, potato fondant and red cabbage complimented the richness perfectly

Desserts also demonstrated the kitchen’s all round high level of skill. We must not forget that part of Bryn’s early training was in Patisserie Millet in Paris.

Classic tarte tatin was well executed, with the correct degree of caramelisation of the apples and crisp pastry. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was a model of its kind.

Cranberry sorbet proved the perfect foil for a densely textured chestnut cake, decorated with confit chestnuts, cranberries and pistachios.

Food of this quality is worth waiting for, and indeed the gaps between courses were longer than some might expect. However, given the attention to detail and labour intensity each dish clearly required, the waits are understandable. Restaurant manager Paul Halliwell greets guests with a polished, understated charm. He organizes his team well, the resulting service being efficient, knowledgeable and unobtrusive.Overall, a meal at Odette’s is a memorable experience with cooking definitely of Michelin star quality. The restaurant has gone from strength to strength since Bryn’s initial involvement and subsequent ownership, its potential being very strong indeed. Let us hope this neighbourhood and destination restaurant achieves the highest accolades it deserves.