St Stephen’s Street in the Edinburgh suburb of Stockbridge has become the hub for an eclectic group of neighbourhood restaurants. Most have discreet entrances often located in basements, unlike Moss at Number 112, where the wide glass frontage offers views of well-heeled clientele dining at this exciting new opening.
Henry Dobson opened his 26 cover restaurant at the end of January with the aim of cooking only with Scottish ingredients and sourcing drinks solely from the British Isles. Styling himself as Creative Director and Food Scientist, based on two years’ solid research and development, including six months in Japan, he has combined his extensive knowledge of ingredients with his experience as a chef, especially at Noma, to produce a truly stimulating and inventive gastronomic offering, sprinkled with a sense of fun.
Crucial to the restaurant’s development is sourcing an abundance of seasonal and sustainable produce from the family’s organic farm in Angus. Here much of the foraging, curing, smoking, preserving, fermenting, pickling, drying, and powdering take place, preparations all featuring on the menu.
The farm also served as the source for wood from fallen Lime trees for the restaurant’s hand-crafted table tops; clay for ceramic tableware made by Akiko Matsuda, Henry’s Japanese wife; ash for the textured paint which covers the walls; and dried branches for decoration. The result is a minimalist, Nordic inspired dining room, with the relative closeness of the tables encouraging an intimate and relaxed vibe.
At this early stage, with only two chefs, the Scandinavian and Japanese inspired menu features three options – meat, fish and vegetarian – in starters and mains – and only one dessert. Main items in each dish are listed, with an emphasis on preservation and fermentation, but without reference to cooking methods, which adds a surprise element to the diner. Dishes are complex, partly reflecting the large number of elements but also the experimental nature of the cuisine. The cooking of meat and fish is precisely timed, and balance is achieved in contrasting texture and flavour combinations. Sauces and purees are particularly well executed and presentation is elegant and stylish.
Prices are realistic given the impeccable quality of the produce and the sharply honed skills of the kitchen.
Fine Dining Guide visited for dinner on a Wednesday evening in March and found much to commend in inspired cooking and welcoming, knowledgeable service.
An ostensibly simple first course was deceptively complex is its preparation.
A deeply flavoured Reestit Mutton broth was based on slow cooked meat which had been double cured by brining and drying, a key feature of Shetland preservation. At table, this clear, hot liquid was poured onto cold wild garlic butter which added to its richness. An exemplary house sourdough, with its crisp crust and chewy crumb provided the ideal partner for dunking.
Next came what is likely to prove a signature starter.
A beautifully fresh fillet of halibut had been cured like Gravlax to emphasise its mild sweet taste and firm, meaty texture. The gentle flavour of the fish paired well with the more exotic and colourful elements, primarily the seaweed cure of blue spirulina. (At table, Henry enthused about how he sourced the Japanese algae from a supplier in Livingstone who grows it in bioreactors.) Wild garlic oil, cream and veal stock provided a rich base enhanced by honey cured egg yolk. Shio koji added an umami hit while the dish was spiked with pickled elderflower and twelve month ramson capers. A potato quaver topped this visually stunning dish which exemplified the original use of multiple foraged and preserved produce to elevate the main ingredient.
A main course of Sika deer saw two generous loin steaks lightly smoked in juniper to produce a blushing pink, gently gamey – almost beefy – flavour. A buttery Shagback potato provided the carbohydrate. The other accompaniments comprised diverse yet complementary garnishes which enhanced but did not overpower the venison. Damson puree added both sweetness and acidity. A velvety smooth puree of white carrot and Douglas Fir gave a muted citrus and pine flavour. Pickled girolles added sharpness, while the whole dish was bought together by a deeply flavoured silky sauce comprising classic venison jus, caramelised cream and chipotle miso, split with wild garlic oil. Overall, this was a brilliantly conceived, masterly executed dish -a real tour de force
The only dessert on offer was the candied sugarless Chiffon cake, a fluffy, light sponge based on floral honey and milk. Preserved blackcurrant curd gave a balancing tartness while milk, honey, salt, noble fir dried and powdered gave contrasting textures and flavour.
Instead of petit fours, complementary candy floss made from crushed sweets bought a fun ending note to a most enjoyable meal After just two months and without a full quota of staff, Moss has made an impressive start, attracting increased and sometimes repeat custom. Hopefully, the recruitment of two more chefs will relieve pressure on the kitchen, allowing Henry Dobson to focus on more creative activities. The imminent arrival of a serious pastry chef trained under Pierre Gagnaire will extend the range of desserts. More importantly, the consistent imaginative and original approach has added a breath of fresh air to a highly competitive market. Fine Dining Guide looks forward to revisiting in the not-too-distant future, and will follow its progress with interest.
