The Balmoral, the iconic grande dame of Edinburgh luxury hotels, is the home of Number One, its gastronomic restaurant. Boasting four AA Rosettes, a coveted place in La Liste of the world’s best restaurants, it also has a strong recommendation in the Michelin Guide.
The truly glamourous venue was designed by Olga Polizzi of Forte family fame. Its red lacquered walls are decorated with a prominent triptych print of a Scottish oak tree by Adam Ellis and graduation pieces from the Royal College of Art. The well-spaced tables dressed in fine linen with Dove Grey woollen banquettes, benefit from well directed spotlighting.
Responsibility for this 40-45 cover restaurant lies with a super team of leaders.
Restaurant Manager Emma Hemy, winner of Hotel Restaurant Manager of the year 2021, has worked at The Balmoral for 17 years, five as manager. With her Assistant Manager Keith McGregor, she oversees the Front of House. Head Sommelier, Callum McCann, ex General Manager of Glasgow’s Unalome, is in charge of the wine cellar; and, most importantly, Head Chef Mathew Sherry heads a brigade of up to fifteen in the kitchen. Together, they cooperate and coordinate front and back of house to offer a first- rate dining experience.
Mathew has held the position of Head Chef since 2021, the culmination of a distinguished career which included Head Chef of the Michelin starred Northcote in Lancashire and sous chef of Castle Terrace in his native Edinburgh. After just two years at Number One he was crowned Hotel Restaurant Chef of the Year by Hotel Cateys in 2023.
Mathew’s cooking is deeply rooted in classical preparations and techniques. Fish, shellfish and meat cookery are precisely timed to maximise their natural flavour and texture. Equal care is taken with vegetable preparation which comprise integral parts, not mere garnishes, of his dishes. Sauces are a particular strength, their glossy smoothness and depth of flavour complement, never overwhelming, the main ingredient. Balance of tastes and textures are shown within each dish and across the whole tasting menu. Exquisite presentation is displayed throughout, plates being clean and uncluttered. Flair and innovation are evident in abundance, but not at the expense of consistency in cooking.
At interview, Mathew stressed the importance of seasonality, although there is not an exclusive use of Scottish ingredients. As the menu changes regularly, he does not have a signature dish. Rather, he has signature seasonal key ingredients such as asparagus, scallops and tomatoes. The unashamed grand style of fine dining, as exemplified in the Seven Course Tasting Menu, is in keeping with the magnificent, imposing features of Balmoral Hotel and Number One in particular. The prospect of realising this was a main reason for his acceptance of his current post, despite his contentment as Head Chef at Northcote
Not that he is resting on his laurels creatively. Balance of textures is essential in his repertoire. Often a new dish may start with the vegetable component and working around that. Mathew conceded that some classical recipes also lack freshness and acidity, being unbalanced in their richness, hence his use of herbs, foraged produce and citrus fruits such as lime and bergamot.
The Menu lists the key ingredient on each dish without indicating cooking methods, giving an element of surprise to the diner. The provenance is proudly displayed on the reverse, showing the importance of sourcing the best quality from those –including some small suppliers – with whom trusted relations have been built over the years.
Fine Dining Guide visited to sample the Seven course tasting menu on a Thursday evening in April, finding much to appreciate in the venue, food and service.
A duo of Canapés to accompany pre-prandial drinks comprised traditional Cullen Skink croustade with chives, and duck liver pate with pistachio and apple. The quality of the wafer-thin pastry and rich fillings reflected the skill and minute attention to detail involved in producing these delicious morsels. They augured well but did not steal the thunder of the courses to come.
A Linseed sourdough loaf had a crisp, nutty crust and well flavoured crumb. Served with Meliss butter from Tain in the Highlands, this moreish partnership was difficult to limit to just one slice.
Ullapool Crab: This layered dish showed Japanese influence in its gently set base of smoked almond and crab custard. A mixture of sweet white and rich brown meat was topped with a crab and almond foam surrounding a topping of almond crisps and fragrant coastal herbs spiked with the gentle aniseed hit of dill. With its elegant presentation and combination of contrasting tastes and textures, this was a stunning first course. Wine: Journeys End. “Destination”, Chardonnay ‘23
West Coast Langoustine: The cooking of this beautifully fresh crustacean was perfectly timed to showcase the firm texture of its sweet, succulent flesh. It was paired with fresh asparagus cooked al dente to maximise its tender, snappy crunch and slight earthy bitterness. A velvety charred asparagus velouté was balanced by rich coral hollandaise, blended to a judicious balance of creaminess and acidity. The precision executing these luxurious elements underscored the finely tuned skills of the kitchen
Roasted veal sweetbread: This delectable piece offal had been gently dusted in rice and plain flour then deftly pan roasted to produce a thin crust encasing soft, creamy flesh. It sat on a pool of veal jus spiked with the acidity of lime gel and finger lime, offsetting the unctuous richness of the sweetbread. The crisp freshness of Pak Choi, and the sweet earthiness of “textures of carrot” – puree and shreds -provided excellent accompaniments. Wine. Ossian Verdejo ‘20
Hand Dived scallop: More accomplished seafood cookery was demonstrated by how the unusually large hand dived Orkney scallop was seared and halved to reveal the sweet translucent flesh under the caramelised crust. Here, the exact timing of the cooking respected the inherent excellent quality of the raw material. Roast chicken jus and Vin Jaune sauce, enhanced by the addition of celery, added richness while the slightly nutty, saline notes of seaweed and the delicacy of celeriac crisps provided contrasting tastes and textures. The interplay of soft and crisp, sweet and savoury were particularly successful in this dish
Cullinan Farm lamb: The short saddle of lamb was roasted on the bone and well rested. The result, crisp skin, a thin layer of rendered fat and meltingly tender, full flavoured meat, showed off this premium cut at its best. This was complemented by a bronzed confit potato terrine, three alliums -a quenelle of caramelised onion, pickled onion and onion puree, together with wilted wild garlic. A light but flavoursome jus brought the accomplished dish together nicely. Wine: Sordo Barolo Gabutti ‘
The strengths of the pastry section were revealed in the final two courses.
Balmoral Honey: A delightful dish featured feathery light honey cake, a delicate honeycomb tuile and a cultured yogurt ice cream. The balance of gently sweet and slightly sour was carefully judged in this simple, delicious pre dessert
Tomlinson’s Rhubarb: The final dome shaped dessert was a multi layered Yorkshire Rhubarb composition. In the centre of was compote of forced rhubarb and custard under a mousse, the whole being covered in a delicate rhubarb glaze. Vanilla pastry cream added extra richness while balls of dehydrated semi raw rhubarb and lemon balm leaf gave crisp texture and a citric freshness. A rhubarb sorbet of exceptional smoothness and gentle acidity was a refreshing balance to the sweet creaminess of the mousse. Finished with concentric circles of piped rhubarb coulis, this visually stunning dessert was a tour de force of dessert cookery. Wine: Riesling Auslese Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg’18
Good coffee and delectable petit fours completed an unforgettable meal, one made more memorable by the world class hospitality. The genuine warmth of welcome was supplemented by the professional, seamless and knowledgeable service directed by Restaurant Manager Emma. Her engaging, interested approach, shown by a willingness to chat about a range of topics, puts guests at their ease. Chief Sommelier Callum spoke with authority and encyclopaedic knowledge about the paired wines, but was also happy to engage in other topics, especially his native Glasgow. And Matthew spared the time to answer a few questions after service, an interview which developed into a mutual reminisce about favourite food, chefs and restaurants. Fine Dining Guide hopes to revisit Number One and is confident to enjoy the same stellar standards of food and hospitality enjoyed on its first visit.
